In my last diary (about 3 months ago) I promised to post a video of the buggy that had been brought to life) But as soon as I got around to it...
I realized that the revision would be difficult and pointless!
I decided that it was better, given the flaws of that car, to assemble a completely new one, not similar to the previous one!
And then it started!
To begin with, I made drawings of new levers. These are the front left and right - 
This is how they look on the model. By the way, I forgot to say that I made all the levers from metal corners 25x25 
And the frame is made of aluminum profile 50 by 20 MM and 60 cm long 
Following the front suspension, I moved on to making the rear. From the beginning I made a drawing 
The right and left lower arms are the same. Here they are on the model- 
These photos show the suspension with knuckles installed.
They are made from a pipe of 37 mm diameter; the bearings fit into them without difficulty, and in order to prevent the bearings from falling out of them, I cut an M4 internal thread in the fist for better fixation of the bearing! 
This is the rear knuckle from the front, it differs in that they have different attachments to the levers! The front knuckles are attached to the levers on balls, which are made from a hex bolt which I gave a spherical shape 
They twist into the fist itself from above and below 
And now it's finished 
Of course, I also cleaned it of “snot” and painted it. And now the photos from which it will become clear how I made such balls - 
Next to the bolt there is a “cracker”, it acts as a gasket; it contains the ball itself 
The cracker itself was made from a can of antifreeze. 8 squares were cut out and holes for the bolt were made in 4 of them. This is how you need to insert them into the lever and tighten them) 
And then heat the lever itself and tighten the nuts. Once I finished this procedure, I pulled out the cracker along with the bolt and dripped oil into it!
It seems like he talked about the suspension. Right now there are photos showing how parts for the suspension were made (levers, mounts for arms and knuckles) 
These are the rear lower control arms 
The mounts for the arms are simply sawn off from a 25x25 corner, 10 cm long. The front and rear mounts are the same. And this is what the upper arms look like; they need to be made shorter than the lower ones, because if this is not done, the wheels will not stand level.
OF COURSE IT’S NOT COMPLETELY CLEAR. But further there will be photos during assembly in which this lever will be clearly visible.
I was wondering at what distance to place the fasteners. 
I started the assembly from the front part because I wanted to make it front-wheel drive. 
Following the front end I switched to back 
These are parts for the rear suspension. Next to the lower arms are the upper arms that I was talking about. 
And this is what the back looks like when finished - 
To prevent the fasteners from moving around different sides they should be boiled 
I removed all the welding jambs when sanding before painting.
Well, this is what the chassis looks like when assembled)) 
In the photo it looks like a limousine))) but it’s not.
It's the helmsman's turn 
and began preparing parts for the drive 
I made the bones myself 
They are made from a nail)) 300 x 8 mm after they were made they were hardened 
This is what they looked like after hardening.
Once everything was ready, I started assembling 
Then the “hemorrhoids” began - when I installed everything, when turning the wheels either did not turn or the bones fell out. I fiddled with it but still couldn’t figure out what was going on
After suffering for 2 days, I decided to make REAR wheel drive instead of front wheel drive.
There was nothing complicated about it, I just moved the stars from front to back 
After I changed the drive everything went like clockwork)) 
The engine is secured in three places, two of which are visible in the photo
This is one mount in the crankcase under the oil and two on the opposite side.
After changing the drive, I now have space to install my servo with a force of 33 kg)) 
It's time to install the brake and gas servo 
Here is the mechanism itself responsible for stopping the model 
Well, one of the most important details is the tank, it is located at the back of the model 
Here you can see how the front suspension works so that the suspension is more rigid and similar to the rear - I tightened the springs
Rear-
Old helmsman-
Ball work -
Just like that - she drives))))
) The video is short because when she drove into a snowdrift and began to slip, the axle on which the cups stand bent (((I THOUGHT I THOUGHT AND REALIZED THAT WITHOUT DIFF IT WOULD BE HARD
And I thought about buying this one, I think he can handle it!!
I think it will be interesting who inspired me to do this))) really all-wheel drive)) And thanks to his advice I brought it to mind!!
While I’m saving up money for it, I decided to write an article. Since there will be no changes in the design of the car after installing the diff!!
If something is not clear or you have questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
Thanks to everyone who read my article to the end!!
Ask any boy building his first schematic model what he dreams of. Almost certainly he will answer - a copy. Yes, this is understandable. It is not for nothing that a copy model is considered to be one of the most interesting and complex classes in aviation modeling. By building copies, aircraft modelers get acquainted with the technical achievements of aviation and master advanced techniques for using the tool.
The editor receives many letters asking them to tell us about the simplest and most available option cleaning and releasing the landing gear on replica models. We offer a scheme developed in the aircraft modeling circle of the KYuT heavy machine tool manufacturing plant in the city of Kolomna. It was made on a copy model of the An-24 aircraft. Its designer, Yuri Shabalin, became the champion of the Moscow region and the silver medalist of the 1974 All-Russian schoolchildren competition.
The following requirements are imposed on the mechanism for retracting and releasing the landing gear on a copy model: the design must be simple and reliable in operation, it must contain as much as possible less details, be light in weight, allow you to quickly replace parts that have failed during operation, and check them during preventive examinations. Taking these requirements into account, we built the model.
The operation of the landing gear retraction and release mechanism is carried out as follows: the DP-10 microelectric motor transmits rotation to the drum through a gearbox. The cable is attached at one end to the bottom of the upper strut, at the other end to the drum. Winding onto the drum, it pulls along the lower part of the upper strut, which is pivotally connected to the lower one and therefore carries the main post along with it. The main landing gear is held in the retracted position by a taut cable. An intermediate swing block guides the cable and reduces friction during movement. The upper strut, describing an arc, thereby changes the angle of the harvesting cable in the interval from its attachment point in the upper strut to the movable block. And since the intermediate block is located in bearings, it moves behind the cable, holding it in the groove and directing it into the connecting tube leading to the working drum.
1 - wheel; 2 - landing gear; 3 - lower ear; 4 - lower strut; 5 - upper strut; 6 - locking spring; 7 - axis of the locking spring; 8 - rear strut mounting bracket; 9 - rack mounting bracket; 10 - bracket mounting bolts; 11 - axis of rotation of the rack; 12- cotter pin; 13 - washer; 14 - block roller; 15- plain bearing; 16 - block body; 17 - stool cleaning cable, 18 - block.
1- wheel; 2 - Stoic; 3 - rack mounting bracket; 4 - locking latch; 5 - intermediate block; 6 - cleaning cable 7. - rack suspension axis; 8 cotter pin; 9 - return spring; 10 - latch locking spring; 11-axis locking spring attachment.
The release of the main landing gear (Fig. 1) is carried out in the opposite direction. By loosening the tension of the cable, the steak comes out of the engine nacelle with the help of a return spring and is placed on the stop.
Cleaning the front stakes (Fig. 2) of the chassis occurs as follows.
The cable at one end is rigidly fixed to the drum of the main rack. Being pulled by the gearbox drum, it removes the locking latch from the groove (the support of the rack) and removes the rack through the intermediate block.
The release of the front strut occurs in the opposite direction. Under the action of the return spring, it comes out, weakening the tension of the cable. The spring forces the drum latch into its slot.
All parts of the landing gear, except for the axles and springs, are made of D-16T duralumin.
When assembling and adjusting the landing gear, you need to ensure alignment and free movement of all hinge joints.
The axles of the main landing gear parts can be quickly disassembled and troubleshooted.
The control mechanism (Fig. 3) is located on the center section at the junction of the wing and the fuselage. It is better to make it removable so that modifications or repairs can be made.
The mechanism is controlled electrically by a switch. The electric mechanism is powered by two 3336L batteries connected in series. They are located near the pilot in the center of the circle. The current is transmitted through a cable made of two PELSHO-0.25 wires and suspended from the cords.
The electrical circuit for controlling the mechanism for retracting and extending the landing gear of a copy model of the An-24 aircraft is shown in Figure 4.
V. KLIMCHENKO, Y. SHABALIN
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Nowadays, it’s hard to surprise with some new car model, but a vehicle made with your own hands has always attracted attention and excitement. A person who makes a car with his own hands is faced with two scenarios. The first is admiration for the creation, and the second is the smile of others at the sight of the invention. If you look at it, there is nothing complicated about assembling a car yourself. A self-taught engineer is only required to know the design of a car and the basic properties of its parts.
The beginning of automobile construction was preceded by certain historical conditions. During the existence of the union, mass production of cars was carried out. They could not satisfy individual consumer needs. That is why self-taught inventors began to look for ways out of this situation and did this by constructing homemade cars.
In order to make one car with your own hands, three non-working ones were required, from which all the necessary spare parts were removed. If we take into account people living in remote villages, they most often improved various bodies, thereby increasing their capacity. Cars began to appear that had high cross-country ability and could even overcome water. In a word, all efforts were devoted to simplifying life.
A separate category of people gave great importance the appearance of the car, and not just its technical properties. In addition to beautiful passenger cars, sports cars were made that were not much inferior to factory copies. All these inventions not only surprised others, but also became full-fledged participants in traffic.
During times Soviet Union there were no specific restrictions on homebuilt vehicles. Bans appeared in the 80s. They concerned only certain parameters and technical characteristics of the car. But most people could get around them by registering one vehicle with the relevant authorities under the guise of a completely different one.
To proceed directly to the assembly process itself, you need to think through everything in detail. You need to clearly understand how to make the future car, and what technical characteristics he must possess. First you need to determine for what purposes the car will be used, and then implement the idea. If you need an outright workhorse, then in order to make it yourself, you will need special materials and parts. It is also important to make the body and frame of the car as stress-resistant as possible. When a car is made just for driving, the only question is its appearance.
How to make a car with my own hands for a child, you can find out from the following video:
You shouldn’t trust your head and imagination; it would be better and more correct to think about what exactly the car should be like. Then transfer all available considerations to paper. Then it is possible to correct something and as a result a hand-drawn copy of the future car will appear. Sometimes, just to be sure, two drawings are made. The first one depicts appearance car, and on the second there is a more detailed image of the main parts in detail. Before you start drawing you need to prepare everything necessary tools, that is, a pencil, an eraser, whatman paper and a ruler.
Nowadays, there is no need to draw a picture for a long time using a regular pencil. To facilitate this task, there are special programs that have wide capabilities and with their help you can make any drawing.
Advice! If there are no engineering programs, then a regular test program will help in this situation. Word editor.
If you really want to, you can make any car with your own hands. If you don’t have your own considerations, then ready-made ideas and drawings can be borrowed. This is possible because most people who create homemade cars do not hide their ideas, but, on the contrary, present them to the public.
In the vastness of Europe and America, so-called “kit cars” have become widespread. So what is it? This is a certain number of different parts with which you can make a car with your own hands. Kit cars have become so popular that there are many variants of them that can be folded into any car model you want. The main difficulty is not in the assembly, but in registering the resulting car.
To fully work with a kit car, you need to have a spacious garage. In addition, you need tool kits and knowledge. If you do not have certain skills, the work will not give the desired result. If the work is done with the help of assistants, the assembly process will be faster and more fruitful.
This kit includes everything from small screws and instructions to large parts. There shouldn't be any serious difficulties for this to work properly. It should be noted that the instructions are not in printed form, but are presented in a video master class, where everything is discussed down to the smallest detail.
It is very important to assemble the car correctly. This is necessary for the creation to comply with all standards and norms prescribed in regulations Traffic police Since failure to comply with the points leads to problems with registering the vehicle with the relevant authorities.
Advice! If there is such an opportunity, then you can consult with experts in this field.
You can learn more about what kit cars are and how to make them in the following video:
To make your assembly task as easy as possible homemade car, you can take as a basis the base of any other car that is fully functioning. It's best to take a budget option, since it is never known in which direction the experiments will lead. If there are old worn parts, they need to be replaced with serviceable ones. If possible, you can make parts with your own hands on lathes, but this is only if you have professional skills.
First of all, you need to start assembling the car with the body, instruments and necessary details salon Modern inventors use fiberglass for the body, but previously there was no such material, and plywood and tin material were used.
Attention! Fiberglass is a fairly elastic material, which allows you to implement any idea, even the most unusual and original.
The availability of materials, spare parts and other components makes it possible to design a car that, in terms of external parameters and appearance, will not be inferior to the car models of the most leading automakers in the world. This requires ingenuity, good imagination and certain knowledge.
DIY supercar:
Assembling a fiberglass car should begin from the moment you select a suitable chassis. After this, the necessary units are selected. Then you should move on to marking the interior and securing the seats. Once this is completed, the chassis is strengthened. The frame must be very reliable and strong, since all the main parts of the car will be mounted on it. The more precise the dimensions of the space frame, the better the parts fit together.
For the manufacture of the body, it is best to use fiberglass. But first you need to make a base, that is, a frame. Sheets of foam plastic can be attached to the surface of the frame, matching the existing drawings as closely as possible. Then holes are cut out as needed, and if necessary, the parameters are adjusted. After this, fiberglass is attached to the surface of the foam, which is puttied on top and cleaned. It is not necessary to use foam plastic; any other material that has high level plasticity. Such material can be a solid canvas of sculptural plasticine.
It is worth noting that fiberglass tends to deform during use. The reason is the impact high temperatures. To maintain the shape of the structure it is necessary to inner side strengthen the frame with pipes. All excess parts of the fiberglass must be removed, but this should be done after it is completely dry. If everything is done correctly and there is no other work regarding the design, you can move on to interior equipment and electronics mounting.
If re-design is planned in the future, a special matrix can be made. Thanks to it, the body manufacturing process will be faster and easier. The matrix is applicable not only for making a vehicle with your own hands from scratch, but also for the purpose of improving the condition of your own existing car. Paraffin is used for production. To obtain flat surface you need to cover it with paint on top. This will increase the ease of fastening parts for the new car body.
Attention! Using the matrix, the entire body is made. But there is an exception - the hood and doors.
In order to implement your existing idea and make a car with your own hands, there are a number of suitable options. All sorts of working parts will be useful here.
You can do not only with your own hands a car, but also a larger and more powerful truck. In some countries, craftsmen manage to earn decent money from this. They make cars to order. Cars with various original body parts are in great demand.
How to make a Porsche with your own hands:
Many modellers periodically have the desire to build a radio-controlled airplane with retractable chassis, be it a championship aerobatics or an ordinary semi-copy. The question immediately arises, which drive is better to use - electric (that is, from a special servomechanism) or pneumatic?
The answer to this question depends on many factors.
The first is the flight weight of the model. Most manufacturers of electric drive chassis are limited to a standard size designed for a model weight of up to three kilograms and an engine displacement of up to 6.5 cm3 (the engine capacity is indicated by the company only to give an approximate idea of the size and weight of the model). These restrictions should be taken seriously, otherwise the rigidity of the racks may not be enough for one landing. chassis Aerobatic models are an exception, as they have a slow landing speed (compared to some replicas) and their pilots are usually well trained. Prices With
electric drive
(for models up to three kilograms in weight) are approximately as follows: Hobbico - $30, Robart - $35, Graupner - $55, OK Models - $65. It is necessary to take into account that you will also need a special machine with metal gears and increased force (about 9 kg), which costs at least another $50. Let us immediately note that more expensive “legs”, as a rule, are of higher quality. Hobbico racks often have residual deformation even after completely satisfactory fits. If (after noticing this!) you do not bend them back to their original position, the wheel may not enter the niche or enter with great effort. In this case, the drive machine will consume a huge amount of electricity and will completely discharge the on-board batteries in a very short time.
a short time
Therefore, it is better to immediately switch to a larger capacity power supply (preferably over 1000 mAh). It is recommended to install a switch with a connector to monitor the condition of the batteries and check them after each flight. Considering all the mentioned features, it can be assumed that the area of reasonable application electrical systems landing gear retraction is limited to aerobatic models and small semi-replicas.
Currently, chassis with pneumatic drive are becoming more widespread abroad.
They have a number of advantages. They are easier to install on the model, since there is no need to carry out powerful traction and place the servomechanism between the wheels (which is often impossible due to the design of the model). There are no stroke adjustment operations. The system can be turned on using a conventional or micro steering machine. The proposed range of unit sizes is practically unlimited. In parallel, it is possible to use the pneumatic system for other on-board mechanisms. Disadvantages include the possibility of failure due to leakage compressed air from a cylinder high pressure ; the need to check the pressure in the system or refuel it after each flight, as well as high cost
. However, the listed disadvantages after careful consideration become not so significant. Air leakage, as practice has shown, is practically impossible and can only occur if the system is handled extremely carelessly. Checking the pressure, in fact, replaces monitoring the condition of the batteries.
And the increased price seems to be more than compensated by higher reliability.
In addition to the cleaning units themselves with built-in power cylinders, the pneumatic system includes a high-pressure cylinder, a filling valve and a control valve driven by a servo mechanism. Additionally, connectors can be used for quick docking pipelines, which are useful when removing and installing the wing, as well as retarding air jets, which provide a copy speed of landing gear extension.
To refill a high-pressure cylinder, a special hand pump with a pressure gauge is available.
The cost of the entire kit for a model weighing 3-5 kg is about $200. There are systems for larger aircraft as well.
In general, we can conclude that it makes sense to use proprietary pneumatics for retracting and extending the landing gear on first-class models with a flight weight of over 3 kg. However, it must be remembered that a complete pneumatic system is usually quite heavy. Therefore, before making a choice in its favor, once again check the general weight summary of the future aircraft.
All aircraft retract the landing gear in different ways: some hide the landing gear in special nacelles (Tu-134 and Tu-154)
The landing gear can be hidden in the center of the fuselage as on most aircraft, including the A-320:
And even the Yak-40 (like the Boeing 737, its landing gear is not completely hidden, but is visible from below:
On the ground, landing gear is the object of close attention of aircraft technicians and pilots. Not only do they look very complex, but they also combine many systems: hydraulics, electricity, pneumatics. It is necessary to constantly pay attention to the integrity of all parts, tubes, wires, hoses and springs that surround the chassis system. There can be both mechanical damage and hydraulic fluid leaks (the chassis is controlled by hydraulics), metal cracks and tire wear. I have already written in sufficient detail about tires.
The chassis on the ground looks something like this.
Boeing-737:
The question may arise, what will happen if the landing gear is removed while the plane is on the ground? How are the landing gear retracted and deployed? The landing gear is controlled from the cockpit by the pilot. The control looks like a lever - in one position the landing gear is retracted, in another it is extended. On almost all passenger airliners this lever can be found quickly and easily without special preparation. As a rule, it is located on the central panel, and it is controlled by the co-pilot, who sits in the right seat (sometimes by the flight engineer, who sits in the middle between the pilots on some domestic aircraft).
The landing gear release handle is outlined in a red square.
Well, on our native Tu-154:
So here it is. What happens if you pull the handle on the ground? Will the plane begin to retract its landing gear and crash straight to the ground? Nothing will happen. Why? Because the plane "knows" that it is on the ground. It remains to be seen how he knows this. (It is important to note that some aircraft may still begin to retract their landing gear; this applies mainly to sports and military aircraft. Passenger airliners will not allow this =))
Here is the answer:
Do you see a button under the spring? So this is a limit switch, which, at a certain position of the entire mechanism, is pressed, closing electrical circuit. Like a telegraph key, only pressed by mechanisms. Such switches are used everywhere in technology (the laptop knows when you close the lid because there is the same switch there, the microwave oven turns on when the door is closed, the car lights turn off when all the doors are closed - these are all small limit switches or limit switches, often well hidden ).
On the Tu-154 landing gear, a whole block of limit switches communicates a variety of information to the aircraft:
On the stand, right next to it, there is a hint which limit switches are responsible for what:
Now let's look at this question. But what if you need to check the operation of the landing gear on the ground? Very simple. We need to “deceive” the plane. To do this, the plane just needs to be raised!
Often this has to be done late at night in VERY bad weather right outside:
To somehow warm up, you need to call a heating machine.
But the plane must fly. Therefore, the work must be completed without delay. There is no time to wait for the sunny morning.
Sometimes, when the hangar is free, you can do this in the hangar late at night:
And if you're lucky, in the hangar on a clear day:
You can even remove all the wheels and replace them with new ones while the plane is hanging. Combination of various works on maintenance in aviation it is only welcome. Otherwise, then no one will hang the plane just for the sake of the wheels. You will have to work with a small lift.
It is best to run the chassis while performing a labor-intensive form of maintenance. Right here a large number of specialists can perform their work simultaneously. During the day and in the hangar.
So, the plane is on lifts and you can check the landing gear:
Now you will see HOW this happens. In fact, the Tu-154 has one of the most complex and most fascinating landing gear retraction/release systems. How could such a beautiful mechanism be invented?
Modern Tu-154 inherited this system from the first Tupolev Tu-16 jet bombers.
