Unfortunately, metal, even the highest quality, is subject to destruction. And especially in such conditions as shooting while hunting. There is not only the impact of the shot itself and the chemicals released during it, but also the impact of adverse weather conditions in which the hunt takes place. Plus – errors in weapon care. As a result, after a season or two, rust appears on the trunks, and even shells appear on the inside. There is only one way to return the original ideal appearance of the barrel - by thorough cleaning and bluing. How to make a gun barrel bluing yourself?
Unfortunately, metal, even the highest quality, is subject to destruction. And especially in such conditions as. There is not only the impact of the shot itself and the chemicals released during it, but also the impact of adverse weather conditions in which the hunt takes place. Plus - errors. As a result, after a season or two, rust appears on the trunks, and even shells appear on the inside. There is only one way to return the original ideal appearance of the barrel - by thorough cleaning and bluing. How to make a gun barrel bluing yourself?
Metal bluing is a process when an oxide film is artificially applied to the barrel, which increases the protective properties of the metal. This simple procedure will not only significantly increase the service life of the gun, but also significantly improve it.
One of the most effective home methods is acid oxidation, or as it is also called “rusty varnish”. This is a special composition that promotes enhanced oxidation of steel and forms magnetic iron oxide.
To prepare “rusty varnish”, you need to take: technical hydrochloric acid (50 ml), carbon steel or cast iron shavings (30 g), concentrated nitric acid (54 ml), metal scale (20-30 g), and distilled water (1 l).
“Rusty varnish” must be prepared only in the open air and only while on the leeward side.
Otherwise, you may be poisoned by the gases released during cooking. You need to take a glass container, pour hydrochloric acid (50 ml) inside, add scale and cast iron shavings (one third), then add nitric acid (one third) to this mixture. We do everything very carefully; for protection you need a respirator, gloves, goggles, a robe or an apron.
"Rusty varnish" treatment
After some time, you will notice that the prepared mixture begins to turn green and bubble, releasing a brown gas and heat. When the mixture calms down a little and stops bubbling violently, add another third of nitric acid and the same amount of scale and chips. There will be an immediate resumption of the reaction, and then it will subside a little again. Then we throw in the remaining acid and shavings.
You will get a mass that is red in color. The main thing is to leave it in a sealed container for about 24 hours until it infuses. After just a day, pour distilled water into the mixture and that’s it. Your varnish is ready. It does not require any special storage conditions. When finished, this varnish is absolutely safe and can serve you for many years.
After you have done the “rusty varnish”, you should start preparing the metal surface. It is very important to sand it well and then polish it. For sanding we use coarse sandpaper, after which we begin to treat the surface with fine abrasives.
Having done this, do not forget to degrease the metal surface. To improve this process, it is worth considering the nature of the oils and fats you want to remove. To properly and thoroughly degrease the surface into the solution, add emulsifiers.
Such substances include “liquid glass”, this is the most common office glue.
Option 1
10-15 g sodium hydroxide (caustic water);
50-70 g trisodium phosphate;
30-40 g of calcined water;
3-5 g of liquid glass.
Option 2
If the trunks were soldered using tin solder, then the best option would be the following composition:
100-150 g of soda ash;
20-30 g of liquid glass.
Option 3
Wash the trunks thoroughly with laundry soap, and then treat them with a toothbrush or brush with a strong solution of potash (potassium carbonate), or a weak solution of caustic soda, or, in extreme cases, ordinary ash. Then rinse repeatedly in several waters, wipe dry and air dry for at least another half hour.
Option 4
You can also clean the trunk of fats and scale in this simple way - by thoroughly wiping it with a wet rag with sifted wood ash or chalk, then scalding it with boiling water and wiping it thoroughly with a dry, clean rag.
Or immerse any other metal part of it in a concentrated solution consisting of sodium nitrate. Heat almost to a boil. If you repeat twice, the black film will be 1.5 microns thick. Then we wash and dry. At the end we lower it into oil (temperature about 120 degrees). We heat the metal until it turns a crimson color, and then rub it thoroughly with the onion.
Regardless of the chosen bluing method, the temperature of the solution should always be at least 90 degrees, and the parts should be kept in the solution for 15-30 minutes.
To check at what stage the process is completed or not, take the barrel out. Take a closer look to see if the liquid evenly covers the barrel. The process is complete when the liquid no longer forms droplets.
After completing this process, we wash each part with running water, wipe it and dry it with a hairdryer. Then we begin to apply the “rusty varnish”. This must be done before a natural oxide film forms on the metal as a result of contact with air.
The trunks are coated twice: using a brush, apply varnish to the surface of the trunk, remove all excess, dry at a temperature of 40 to 60 degrees, then repeat the procedure again. To achieve high-quality bluing, do not touch the barrels with your bare hands. Once you dry the surface, it should turn a dark orange color.
Then comes the boiling process. You need to prepare a solution that contains pure water and nitric acid (1-1.5 ml of acid per 1 liter of water).
First, boil water in a container for several minutes, and then immerse the trunks there. It is best to hang them on strong ropes made of natural materials, tied to wooden sticks so that they hang freely in the bathtub without touching the walls or bottom. They need to be boiled for about 15 minutes in a boiling solution. The trunks will take on a velvety black hue. If you don't get a perfect black color the first time, don't be upset. Next time this defect will be eliminated.
The next stage is brushing. Using a round metal brush attached to a drill or sander, remove loose deposits until a shiny black film forms on the surface of the metal. Remember, you will need safety glasses to use the brush.
It is necessary to cover the trunks with “rusty varnish” at least eight times, that is, 4 boilings and 4 brushings.
After completing the last brushing process, we do the last thing - oiling. The trunks, which already have a uniform graphite color, are immersed for 5 minutes in a bowl into which machine oil or natural drying oil has been poured. In the case of machine oil, it must be heated to 110 degrees.
Oddly enough, you can bury metal quite easily at home using ordinary oils - this method is considered the simplest. To do this, the algorithm of actions is as follows: degrease the metal, wash it with a detergent, this will help make the bluing more even. Heat the metal on a gas stove until a brown color appears. And at the same moment we take a cloth, which we first soak in oil (vegetable or machine oil) and rub the surface. We heat the metal again to get rid of any remaining oil. The result is a radical black color. In the same way, you can blue other metal parts of the weapon.
Classic options are also used as a bluing liquid - linseed oil, hemp or linseed oil.
There is not much difference between them. Flaxseed oil is obtained by prolonged heating and cooking of linseed oil. This oil contains many unsaturated organic acids. Due to this, in air it oxidizes and polymerizes. It is not recommended to use synthetic drying oil for bluing.
Also, as an option - machine oil. Any oil will do: motor oil M8 or I20. You can use I-20 machining. Semi-synthetic oils, as well as synthetic ones, may give the wrong result; each of them must be checked separately. When using mineral oil or drying oil, the shade of bluing is almost the same. However, these coatings have different properties.
When heated, the surface of the iron is impregnated with mineral oil, charred, coked, and with the help of drying oil a more dense coating is formed on the surface of the barrel, it better protects against corrosion and holds better. This is due to the fact that due to oxidation by air, the drying oil on the surface of the steel “dries out”.
After the metal has been dipped into the liquid, wait a little and take the object out. The holding time depends on the thickness of the metal. If mineral oil was used, you will need to thoroughly wipe off any remaining oil using a cloth. While it is hot, it is easier to scrub off. If you took drying oil, then remove the stains and leave it to dry. Hot drying oil will dry much faster.
The bluing process is quite lengthy and labor-intensive, however, which has undergone this procedure, has excellent resistance to corrosion for a long time.
You can also buy ready-made compounds for bluing, among which “Clover” (Ballistol Klever-Schnellbrunierun) from the German manufacturer F.W. is recognized as the most effective. Klever GmbH.
This method is quite complex, almost industrial, but if you can get the reagents, the result will be simply amazing! Composition: for 10 liters of water - 13 g of mercury chloride, 5 g of copper sulfate, 300 g of solid ferric chloride, 8.5 g of diethyl ether, 170 g of ethyl alcohol, 170 kg of concentrated nitric acid. The solution preparation scheme is as follows: first dissolve mercury chloride in hot water (about 2 l). Next, the remaining salts are added to the resulting solution. Then add cold water to 10 liters, and then introduce nitric acid, alcohol and ether. The metal surface must be well degreased, otherwise it will turn out spotty. For such work, it is imperative to use personal protective equipment.
This recipe is taken from the book “” Buturlin S.A., 1936. It is simple and very effective.
To do this, birch or aspen charcoal (coke baked into a fire) is pounded into powder, then sifted through a sieve. This powder is poured into a tin or other metal box (riveted only, no soldering!) and heated on the stove until sparks begin to run across the powder when stirred. Then the well-cleaned iron or steel parts of the barrel are placed in this powder. It is best to string them on a wire to make it easier to remove. The trunks should be completely immersed in the powder and covered with it, but not touch the bottom and walls of the box.
Painting, by robbing pure steel of its shine, makes the gun less noticeable to game, and most importantly, protects the steel and iron from rusting.
In itself, this work is not difficult, but for success it requires very great accuracy and perfect cleanliness; beginners rarely succeed.
The outside of the trunks must be completely cleaned from rust, all stains and traces of previous painting until completely white - first with sandpaper No. 00, then the finest No. 0000, or with a cork soaked in oil and sprinkled with emery dust, or so-called “steel wool.” Of course, the cut-off barrels, as well as the flat parts under the breech, are not touched.
To polish, the trunks are then wiped, sprinkled with dry fine sandpaper, or even better with “Viennese lime,” and rubbed with a soft cloth.
Before cleaning and polishing, the barrels are thickly greased inside with lard and tightly plugged with precisely fitted and also lubricated wooden sticks from both the treasury and the barrel. The pieces of wood should stick out 18-22 cm (4-5 inches each) outward so that you can handle the trunks without touching the metal with your fingers.
It is necessary to thickly lubricate all parts of the extractor and fill it, as well as trimmings of trunks and hooks with flat parts, rosin (harpius) or wax; if the barrels have to be heated very much (see below), then these parts should be filled with plaster, as well as the breech and muzzle ends of the barrels, inserting a nail stuck into a stick into the plaster.
Having completely cleaned and polished the surfaces of the trunks, it is necessary to remove the slightest traces of fat from them (for example, from accidental touch even with a dry hand). To do this, you need to wash the trunks thoroughly with soap, and then with a strong solution of potash (potassium carbonate) or a weak solution of caustic soda or just ash, then wash thoroughly in several waters and wipe dry with a dry cloth or clean tow.
You can clean the barrel from traces of grease by thoroughly wiping it with a wet rag with sifted wood ash or chalk, then scalding it with boiling water (from a samovar) and wiping it thoroughly with a dry, clean rag.
For some painting methods, you also need to prepare a bath of such length that the trunks with sticks sticking out of them can fit freely, the width is quite spacious, 12-13 cm (2.7-3 inches), and the depth is about 11 cm (2.5 inches). ). You can make it from iron, tin, zinc, even just from boards, just thickly fill the seams with melted black resin, rosin or wax.
It is best to attach the trunks on strong twines tied to wooden sticks so that the trunks hang in the bathtub without touching the walls or its bottom.
In many cases, the oxide layer applied to the trunks during painting must be cleaned off until an even, uniform gloss is achieved with a metal brush, like those used in factories for combing wool. You can do it like this: take the tanka (“knitting”) iron wire itself, cut it into pieces of 7 centimeters (1.5 inches each), put the pieces in a pack approximately the thickness of your little finger, tie them tightly in the middle with twine in several turns, trimming one from the ends of a bundle of wires (lightly tapping the ends with a hammer). The resulting flat top area is also ground with the finest file or whetstone. You can also use small brushes to clean the file.
Rub the trunks with a brush, without scratching them, but stroking them with a brush in one direction, so to speak, “along the wool,” without leaving any matte areas that have not been rubbed.
The following recipes for different colors were collected from various good gunsmiths and technicians over the years; We give without changing their nomenclature, not all recipes are the same.
Therefore, here we stipulate that “ferric chloride”, “ferric sesqui-chloride”, “ferric two-trichloride”, “Ferrum ses-qu.chloratum”, “Ferrum tricnloratum” - all this is the same thing, having the same chemical formula “ Fe CL3". “Ferric chloride” has a slightly different composition (less chlorine), so its chemical formula is Fe CL2.”
1. Painted blue. Dissolve 0.5 percent in hot water in one container. ferric chloride (“Ferrum tnchlora-tum purrum”), and in the other 0.5 percent, i.e., for one vodka bottle 3 g of red blood salt (kalium ferri cyanatum); Having mixed two equal volumes of these solutions in a bath, immerse the trunks there and keep until the desired color.
Having taken it out, they wash the trunks with cold water, without touching the metal with their hands, let it dry and, after heating it a little, carefully wipe it with boiled oil (linseed oil) on a soft canvas cloth, but not greasy, and leave it to dry for several days.
2. Painting in blue-black color. Copper sulfate (blue) (cuprum sulfuricum) is dissolved in water and 5-6 drops of sulfuric acid (acidum sulfuricum) are added dropwise to each glass of solution. The trunks are immersed in this bath until they acquire the color of red copper. Then they are rinsed with water, and if they are Damascus trunks, then they are immersed in 10 percent. solution of ammonia (liquor ammonium causti-cum) (regular commercial ammonia is a 10% solution of ammonia in water) until the Damascus pattern becomes clearer; then the trunks are removed and thoroughly rinsed with water. Steel trunks are not passed through this ammonia bath.
Next, hyposulfite (natrum hyposulfurosum) is dissolved in hot water, approximately 200 g for each glass; the solution is passed through a funnel with filter paper or absorbent (pharmaceutical) cotton wool. Before pouring this solution, hang the trunks in the bath, without touching them at all to the walls or the bottom of the bath.Into the solution, drained in some vessel, pour hydrochloric or hydrochloric acid (acidum muriaticum or acidum hvdro-cloricum) 2 percent by volume, or 0.25 cups of acid per 12.5 cups of solution. When mixed with acid, the solution will become cloudy and yellow, and then the trunks are immersed in it, hot.
After 5 seconds, take out the trunks, pour cold water over them and see if the color begins to show. If it appears, then the trunks are again immersed in the bath for half a minute (30; seconds), no more, and again taken out, doused with water and examined. (When the coloring is brought to the desired blackness in this way, the trunks are carefully washed in cold water without touching with your hands. Then the used hyposulfite solution is poured out of the bath (it may be useful again, but with hydrochloric acid added again); wash the bath and pour add a solution of potassium alum (Alumen kаlium pulvis) in water: for every 5 glasses of water, half a glass of alum powder.
The trunks are placed in this solution for 12 hours, then they are washed with cold water, allowed to dry and, after heating a little (for example, by removing one of the plugs of each trunk and pouring boiling water inside), carefully wipe them with boiled oil (linseed oil) on a soft canvas cloth, but not greasy, and, hanging loosely, are allowed to dry for up to six days.
3. Painted gray. It is produced as just described above, but the hyposulfite solution is taken weaker, 200 g per 3.5 glasses of water, and is used not hot, but cold.
4. Brownish-black color. Dissolve 2 parts of ferric chloride (Ferrum chloratum purrum), 2 parts of antimony chloride and 1 part of gallic acid (Acidum gallicum) in 40 parts of water. This solution is applied to the trunks with a piece of sponge or cloth, trying not to leave parts of the surface uncoated, but also not to coat it twice and not allow dripping to flow, but to coat along the trunks evenly and uniformly, evenly. Repeat the coating several times to achieve the desired shade, wash with water, dry and wipe with drying oil.
b. Painted black. Concentrated sulfuric acid is poured dropwise into half a glass of turpentine (turpentine oil), stirring thoroughly each time with a glass rod or tube; At the same time, a black mass settles at the bottom. From time to time a little fresh turpentine is poured into the glass. When you get 0.25 cups of black sediment, leave the glass for several hours so that the sediment settles more densely.
Then all the turpentine is carefully drained from the sediment, water is poured in instead, in which the sediment is stirred with a glass rod, and then it is again allowed to settle, and the water is carefully drained. This washing of the precipitate with clean water is repeated 12-15 times, testing to see if all the acid has been washed off (if a strip of litmus paper, available in any pharmacy, dipped into water, turns from purple-pink to pure pink, it means that traces of the acid have not yet been washed off) .
When the acid has been washed, pour the sediment onto a clean, thin linen cloth and strain the water through it. Then the sediment is applied to the trunks, preferably with a flat bristle brush about 27 cm wide, as evenly as possible. If, due to its thickness, the sediment lies unevenly, you need to add a little turpentine and mix it thoroughly with the sediment; if the sediment is too liquid and flows off the trunk, you need to carefully evaporate the sediment over an alcohol lamp.
A well-made sediment covers the trunks with an even, translucent dark brown layer. Having coated the barrels, you need to heat them evenly, turning them correctly and slowly over the fire (at least over a primus stove, etc., if there is no special oven). You have to heat them quite strongly, so this method is not suitable for barrels soldered with tin.
As it heats up, the brown color is replaced by black, more matte. When the blackness has settled evenly, the trunks are allowed to cool slowly and, while they are still warm, they are wiped with a cloth with a small amount of drying oil, after which they are allowed to dry for several days.
This method is more suitable for steel trunks, since the Damascus pattern appears unclear.
6. Painted black. Dissolve liver sulfur (potassium sulfide, kalium sulfuratum ad balneum) in hot filtered water, 410 g for each bottle of water. Then pour 1 teaspoon of hydrochloric acid onto each bottle of the resulting solution. In a bath with this solution, hang the trunks so that they are 2.5-4.5 cm (0.75 inches or an inch) below the surface of the solution and so that during the dyeing process they can be slowly turned in all directions (for example, attaching two ropes with rings to the ceiling or to the upper frame of the window, into which sticks sticking out of the trunks or nails driven into these sticks are inserted). Having received the desired color, the trunks are washed with water, heated with boiling water and wiped with drying oil, as mentioned above.
7. Painted dark chocolate with a bluish tint. For 20 parts by weight of distilled water, take 24 parts of iron sulfate (green) and 0.5 parts of iron sesquichloride (in pharmacies, against bleeding). This solution (it can be saved) is taken with a piece of absorbent cotton wool, more or less tightly rolled up, and applied in an even, uniform layer along the trunks; then the trunks are placed (preferably hung) for 1 hour in a dry place, and then for 24 hours in a very damp place (cellar).
Then, using a metal brush, they thoroughly but carefully clean off the resulting rust, leaving no matte spot anywhere; scald the trunks with boiling water from a samovar, wipe dry with a dry, clean rag; the second time they cover the trunks in exactly the same way with the same solution. And they do everything 10-12 times in exactly the same order, with aging each time in the cellar.
Having obtained a good color, if the trunks are Damascus, they are rubbed for the last time until shiny with a metal brush, scalded with boiling water, wiped dry and rubbed with drying oil. If the trunks are steel, then it is better to paint them in a dark blue tone (you can, of course, do this with Damascus ones), as indicated below.
8. Painted dark blue. Do everything as indicated above for dark chocolate color, but then, without rubbing the trunks with drying oil, prepare the following solution: 1.8. l (3/20 buckets) of water, take 38.4 g (3 lots) of logwood extract and 0.2 g (3 grains) of iron sulfate, stir this solution with a wooden sliver in the bath, heat (at least on the stove) to a boil (and hang the trunks in the bath, continuing to boil, for 10 minutes.Then, having taken them out, wipe the trunks with a dry cloth, rub with drying oil and dry.
9. Chestnut-brown color. Heat 16 drops of nitric acid in a porcelain vessel (carefully, since the fumes are extremely harmful to both breathing and eyes), add 32 drops of antimony oil (antimony trichloride, bu-tyrum antimonii) and 16 drops of olive oil and gently boil the mixture until completely combined . The heated trunks are covered with the mixture with the care and uniformity already indicated in other recipes and left to hang for 12 hours, then wiped, as explained above, with a metal brush and the etching is repeated up to three times. Then, after polishing with a wire brush, rub with a rag soaked in bone oil.
10. Painted brown. Mix 4.3 g (1 gold) of “nitrate alcohol” (nitric acid), slightly sweetened with sugar, 3.1 g (0.75 gold) of ferric sulfate solution, 3.1 g (0.75 gold) of antimony oils (antimony trichloride) and) 4.3 g (1 gold) copper sulfate. Place this mixture in a tightly sealed bottle in a warm (not hot) place for 24 hours. After that, add 102.4 g (8 lots) of distilled or rain filtered water (0.25 lb, or 102 cm3) and store until used.
Using a sponge or cotton wool (pharmaceutical), evenly cover the trunks with this composition and place them in a warm place for 24 hours. The resulting thin coating of rust is carefully cleaned off with a metal brush until an even color and gloss are achieved. Then the coloring liquid is applied again, and the whole operation is repeated in the same order a second time, and then a third time, only the third time the trunks are not scraped with a metal brush, but polished with leather soaked in wood oil until the desired gloss is obtained. After this, it is dried for 12 hours and again polished with leather and wood oil.
11. Painting in dark cherry color. Prepare one of the two formulations below in a durable glass container.
Mix 410 g (1 lb) of distilled (or strained rain or boiled river) water, 8.54 g (2 gold) nitric acid, 5.15 g (1 gold 20 parts) hydrochloric acid, 8.54 g (2 gold) two-trichloride iron (steel tincture, Liquor ferrum sesquichloratum) and 10.67 g (2.5 gold) copper (blue) and black
of iron sulfate. Or take 690 g (54 lots) of the same water, 25.6 g (2 lots) of iron filings, 12.8 g (1 lot) of steel tincture, 51.2 g (4 lots) of hydrochloric acid and 64 g (5 lot ) "strong vodka".
Cover tightly with a stopper and leave in a warm place for three weeks or more, after which the composition is ready for use. The composition has a dirty olive color and at rest gives a dark rusty sediment.
When used, shake the composition and first try it on an iron plate. If within a day in a warm place a layer of rust thicker than one “point” (0.25 mm, or 0.01 inch) forms on a lubricated plate, then the composition should be slightly diluted with water.
The trunks are carefully and evenly coated with the composition and placed for a day in a warm place (a well-heated room, for example). The resulting layer of rust is carefully polished with a wire brush until an even color and gloss are obtained. Then the trunks are again coated with the composition and everything is repeated in the same order from 4 to 12 times, i.e., until the desired shade is obtained or until the composition stops rusting the trunks.
Having finished painting, pour boiling water into the trunks and polish them. outside with skin soaked in wood oil.
12. Painted in bronze-brown color. In the absence of a graphite crucible, in a strong baked clay vessel, or at least cast iron, melt ordinary cutting sulfur over low heat, having a wet rag or a well-fitting lid at the ready and watching that the sulfur does not flare up. Add 0.1 part by weight of lamp black to the molten sulfur and stir thoroughly. Heat a metal or clay bath thoroughly and pour the liquid mixture into it. The trunks are immersed there (of course, with plaster, not wooden “plugs”) and taken out every 2-3 minutes to see how they are painted.
Instead of sulfur, you can take 3.25-3.5 kg of ordinary saltpeter (Natrium nitricum; purissimum) and, after melting, add to it the finest manganese peroxide powder, 1 part by weight per 8 parts of saltpeter; stirring thoroughly, warm until thrown into the mixture of wood sawdust will not catch fire.
Then the mixture is poured into a hot bath, the trunks are immersed in it, turning them in the mixture and removing them to inspect until the desired thickness of color is obtained. Since saltpeter is flammable, the precautions are the same as with sulfur.
Then the trunks are washed and, while warm, polished with leather and oil.
13. Painted black. As in other cases, thoroughly clean and degrease (at least with a solution of lime in water, diluted to the thickness of good cream) the trunks,
having previously lubricated them thickly inside and plugged them at both ends with well-fitted wooden greased plugs, sticking out 9-14 cm (2-3 vertices) or more.
In a clay bowl mix: 30 g (1/400 of a bucket) of water, 10 g (21/3 gold) of sublimate and 10 g of Berthollet salt and warm this mixture by placing the clay cup in hot water.
Then the trunks are heated, either by temporarily immersing them in a trough of hot water, or by pouring boiling water from a samovar tap.
In advance, attach a piece of sponge or a flannel (not woolen) rag to a wooden stick (with pins, twine, or simply by clamping it into the split of the stick).
In the heated mixture, wet this sponge or cloth, wring it out a little and then smear the heated trunks with the mixture carefully and lightly so that there are no drips or drips.
Having smeared it completely evenly, lower the trunks for 7-10 minutes in boiling water, remove them and allow them to dry, holding them in a vertical position (muzzle down).
As soon as the trunks are dry, rub them until they shine with a linen or paper (not woolen) rag (clean, of course) and again apply the composition to them, propping them up again if they have cooled down, and do not allow the composition to cool down either. And again they repeat everything as stated above.
Having repeated this operation 5-12 times until the desired thickness of the shade is obtained, thoroughly rinse the trunks with boiling water, then wipe them lightly and evenly with a dry cloth until shiny and, without allowing them to cool, generously cover them with linseed oil on a woolen cloth, running it along the trunks along their length and with very light pressure, so as not to erase the color that has not yet hardened; Finally, the trunks are dried.
14. Painted black or brown. The preparation of the trunks and the coloring composition are the same as just described. Dry trunks are also carefully wiped with the composition and left for 1 hour, then carefully wiped with cotton wool or a cloth (not wool) and placed in boiling water for half a minute. Then the dried trunks are again coated with the composition and all this is repeated in the same order until the desired shade is obtained, i.e. sometimes up to 12 times.
After that, the trunks are boiled in water for up to 10-15 minutes, lightly wiped, allowed to dry, and while still warm, rubbed with oil. This produces a brown color, good for Damascus trunks. To obtain a black color, add a teaspoon of iron sulfate (pale greenish-blue) to each bottle during this final boiling.
Many of these painting methods, in particular the last two, are suitable for painting not only barrels, but also other parts of the gun.
15. Painting black (S. I. Bereznegovsky’s method). 96-percent is poured dropwise into a glass of turpentine. sulfuric acid until half a glass of brown sediment is obtained. After allowing the sediment to settle well, carefully drain the turpentine from the sediment. The remaining sediment with the remains of turpentine is carefully heated in a porcelain crucible over low heat through an asbestos circle until completely dry. The dry residue is scraped out of the crucible and ground with small amounts of turpentine until the consistency of sour cream. Next proceed as indicated above in method 5. The result is a beautiful color of blued steel.
16. Blueing of polished parts of the device (not soldered with tin) is done like this. Birch or aspen charcoal, which is not a resinous tree at all, is ground into powder and sifted through a sieve. This powder is poured into a riveted, not soldered, tin or other metal box and heated on a stove or coals, a primus stove, etc. until sparks begin to run across it when the powder is stirred.
Then well-cleaned iron or steel parts are placed in it; it is better to first string them on a wire to make it easier to remove. Things should be completely immersed in powder and covered with it, but not touch the bottom and walls of the box.
After 10-15 minutes of heating, the items are taken out, cooled somewhat, wiped with dry tow and again placed in coal powder for heating.
All this is repeated in the same order 5-6 times until things turn black enough. Then, after allowing them to cool somewhat, they are still warm and greased with wood oil.
There are many other methods and compositions. The whole secret of success is in perfect accuracy and complete cleanliness of work.
Thank you for providing the paint for review to the store http://www.duracoat.ru/
The original coating on the mozberg is not very durable: it peels off, the iron becomes covered with rust even through it. I decided a repaint was the way to go. The monochromatic color seemed banal to me and I chose multicolor camouflage.
What I got, as well as detailed instructions on painting weapons, can be found in this article. Perhaps my experience will help newbies (like myself) avoid some mistakes.
I’ll add that there are no detailed instructions for painting in multicam included with the kit, so what I did was pure improvisation.
And also in this article I will talk about texture additives to paint.
At the time of starting work, my mossberg is as follows. The condition is very good, but the paint on the under-barrel magazine and barrel is starting to peel off.
First of all, we disassemble the gun.
Removes the collimator and bar.
It is clear that he also likes to rust.
After removing the butt, we take the barrel.
Unscrew the fixing nut.
Open the bolt halfway and remove the barrel.
We knock out the pin fixing the trigger and remove the trigger itself.
We take out the bolt and everything from the receiver, remove the forend with rods.
Now we need to prepare the surface for painting.
We remove the old coating using a brass brush on a drill and sandpaper.
All parts are sanded, holes and threads are plugged with masking tape.
The paint comes in a blister, but unfortunately it could not withstand the rigors of sending it by mail. Here's everything that's included in the Multicolor painting kit:
Spray can for paint
Six different colors (names assigned by me)
Cleaner
Hardener
Syringe for measuring ingredients
Self-adhesive stencils
Before painting, we degrease with a cleaner.
The smell is extremely pungent, reminiscent of gasoline, so it is better to work in a ventilated area. I did all the painting at home. It stinks strongly, but if you keep the balcony door open, it’s tolerable.
Our base layer will be the lightest paint.
Mix with hardener in a ratio of twelve to one.
The hardener, as you can read on the packaging, must be stored in the freezer.
Apply an even layer on all sides, trying to avoid smudges. Do not bring the sprayer too close.
The base coat has been applied.
You can blow air at a minimum temperature. One jar of paint was a little short, so I had to use milk brown.
We wait two hours and then collect the gun.
Glue small stencils. There are 10 of them in a set. These spots will end up being the base lightest color.
A little trick: I stenciled the gun numbers on the barrel and receiver so that many layers of paint would not completely hide them.
The second layer will use two colors: Milk brown and Green.
Paint in stripes and leave to dry for a couple of hours.
Now it's time for the big stencils. As you can see from the photo, it is better to use gloves, otherwise a durable coating will be provided not only to your gun, but also to the nails and skin of your hands.
Cover the surface evenly.
The next colors will be Milk Green and Brown.
The third layer is also applied in stripes. Leave to dry for two hours.
After drying, remove all the stencils and enjoy the semi-finished camouflage.
Now we need to apply small spots, for this we use the frames of the very first small stencils.
These spots turn black.
In some nuances I had to deviate from the instructions, for example, I mixed black with brown to get closer to the original cartoon.
The instructions say that you cannot use a brush to apply the paint. But the smallest spots still had to be painted on with a brush. There were no problems.
The Prevel sprayer included in the package is quite convenient, but it seemed to me that the paint consumption was too high
As a result, we get this color.
Note. The sight mounted on the painted rail without any problems
Let's compare it with the original multicam. As you can see from the photo there are differences in color. There is a lack of warmer ocher shades and these colors cannot be mixed from those available. The original does not have such a pronounced white color.
In fact, when ordering paint, you can ask for tinting to match the original cartoon, I just didn’t think of that before.
Painting weapons is a hobby for some, a business for others, and simply a way to get aesthetic satisfaction. This activity looks beautiful and solid. However, skeptics ask the question: “Why paint? After all, weapons are sold already painted. A waste of time, effort and money."
Each gun owner can answer this question himself. This is especially clear to those who often use firearms. With active use, the weapon loses not only its decent appearance - this can still be tolerated - but also its protective coating. As a result, the metal begins to corrode, oxidizes, and rusts. In a word, it loses efficiency.
Painting guns is partly the job of gunsmiths. When assembling a weapon, it may turn out that the receiver, for example, used during assembly, will be uncoated. It was made this way originally, it’s cheaper. What to do with her now? Another option is to oxidize, but this is difficult and expensive. What if you also need a color to contrast with black? If it's plastic or aluminum? But the price of powder coating does not seem high anymore if you know what difficulties may arise!
Another point is a wonderful opportunity to repaint your favorite gun in the color you like. Highlight your favorite brainchild against the background of other, foreign weapons. At the same time, it is always possible to improve resistance to corrosion and mechanical damage.
The meaning of painting weapons is not only the above. For example, the camouflage coloring of a weapon is blurred against the background of protective clothing. From a distance of two hundred meters or more, without optics, you cannot see whether a person is armed, and, if so, with what. In contrast, black weapons are clearly visible on the figure and from 500 meters. Therefore, some decide to paint it in order to blur the silhouette of the weapon against the background of the shooter.
There is a lot of advice given on how to paint weapons and what paint to use. Among the many proven paints, gun paint “Onyx” and “Fosco” stand out.
The paint was created based on the recipe of the Izhevsk Arms Plant. Developed in 1970, it is used as a base coating for products of Kalashnikov Concern JSC. Paint protects the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. It is moisture resistant and can withstand temperature and pressure changes. It is believed that there are practically no imported analogues of such paint. In the production of Onyx paint, DuPont brand materials (USA) are used.
When working with paint, you should perform the following steps in a certain order:
The painted and dried part must be “baked” in the oven for 40 minutes at a temperature of 150-170 degrees. You can use a home oven. It is necessary to monitor the ventilation of the room. If it is not possible to use an oven, then you can “bake” with a technical hairdryer, setting it to the maximum temperature - 200 degrees.
Fosco is a Dutch company (a division of Van Os Imports) that produces tactical equipment. The paint developed here satisfies army needs in its color range. The palette corresponds to the paint codes that were used or are used in different armies of the world. Here are the original army and combat colors. The paint is valued by reenactors; it exactly replicates army paint colors, including those from World War II. The paint is of high quality. It is made in the form of a spray, which makes it easy to apply it to weapons, equipment, glass, plastic, textiles, tools and equipment.
Let's take Fosco black gun paint as an example:
The color of the paint is determined by the color of the cap or according to the information on the container. It also contains both safety precautions and instructions. Another advantage is the safety cap with a lock, which prevents the cylinder from opening arbitrarily or from being opened by children.
Powder paints are used for painting products made of non-ferrous and ferrous metals. Due to its cost, powder coating is especially popular. Painting technology is a universal alternative to other methods.
Powder coating, the price of which starts from 1.5 thousand rubles, has the following advantages:
The price depends on the type of paint (shagreen, plain, antique or metallic), and the painting of small parts individually.
Painting weapons in camouflage is becoming more and more popular every year. To achieve this goal, you need three types of spray paint: beige, brown and dark green (or olive). It is also important to have construction tape with you.
Before painting, the weapon must be disassembled and cleaned. Remaining dirt or dust will prevent the paint from laying flat. It is important to remember that work with aerosol should be performed outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
When applying, the ratio is important. At least 51-55 percent should be the dominant color in the area, and no more than 25 percent should be a secondary color. Other colors can be distributed evenly except black. Fragments of this color cannot occupy more than 10 percent. Otherwise, it will be easy for the enemy to determine the distance and direction of the target.
To summarize: if you don’t figure out how to paint a weapon in camouflage and distribute the paint incorrectly, you will end up with a beautiful, but useless tuning. It is more practical to make a transition from light to dark tones. Otherwise, it will be quite difficult to repaint dark places into light ones.
Painting a weapon in camouflage itself consists of the following steps:
When painting, remember to use a respirator, rubber gloves, and a protective mask. You need to work according to the instructions on the paint can.
Every true airsoft fan has seen these cool painted guns. Many fans of this game have one or more of these guns. Newbies come up to the site and ask “how did you paint your gun?”, and the answer is usually “Gamepod will paint the gun for $100” or “I painted it myself.” If the latter option is your thing and you want to paint your air gun at a reasonable price, then here are some tips to help you while painting your air gun.
Decide what kind of gun you want to paint. Not all air guns look cool painted. For example, the G36, MP5 and other HK series rifles look best in black. Here are a few gun models you might want to paint: M16 models, M4 models, sniper rifle models, and automatic weapon models.
Decide which parts of the gun you want to paint. There are different gun design options available. It is advisable to paint the M4 and M16 series rifle models completely, but on sniper rifles and automatic weapons it is better to paint only the plastic parts or “gun devices”.
Decide on the design and colors of the gun.(if you want digital camo...click the button below the tips) When you're in the store, be sure to buy spray paint and make sure each individual color you buy is matte. If the paint is shiny, your gun will not stand out in the best way...
Prepare your gun. You'll need to prepare the gun so you don't damage it when you paint it. This should be done when you have already chosen a convenient place for painting. You'll need to get some masking tape or masking tape and a lot of newspaper. Newspapers need to be laid on the floor to line a “table” large enough for the gun, and the room needs to be covered so as not to stain it with excess paint. Next, get some cardboard boxes or other forms to rest the gun on while painting.
Lining. Once you've laid out a bunch of newspapers and taped them down to keep them from fidgeting, take your cardboard box and place it upside down. Check that the gun lies on the box and does not move. After that, put on your glasses and get ready to make your gun look beautiful!
Remove the gun from the cardboard box and bring more tape, newspapers, paper towels and paper: you'll need them.
Insert the plug into the barrel. Take the paper and roll it into a roll (about 5 cm long). Check that the thickness of the rolled roller is sufficient, about 4 mm. Place this roller into the barrel of your gun (make sure there are no batteries, clips, or pellets in the gun. Also make sure you remove the sling, scope, and any parts of the gun that can be removed without removing the bolts). If paper is sticking out of the barrel, make sure it won't fall out. Next, take a paper towel and place it over the magazine opening. Place some tape on top at this point. Now close all other holes in your gun (for example, the shell ejection window in the M4). Try to seal it carefully, because everything that is sealed will not be painted. So to prevent you from having random streaks of no paint, all you need to do is plug the holes.
Cover the parts of the gun that you do not want to paint completely with paper towels (don't leave holes in them) and painter's tape. Do not use any other type of tape as it may damage the gun.
Place your gun back on the cardboard box and lay out everything you'll need for painting next to it. Take the lightest color you will use (tan) and, holding the can down or down at an angle, 20 cm away from the gun, spray the paint evenly onto it. Never bring your gun closer. The coating should be light and there should be places where the paint has not taken up. If this happens, you don’t need to keep the can pointed at one point and you don’t need to bring the can closer. For now, just apply a thin layer. You can always further treat the surface. Spray a thin coat of paint wherever you want to paint the gun, even if other colors are added later. Now, depending on the weather, you will need to wait between 20 minutes and 2 hours for the paint to dry completely. (If it's hot and sunny outside, carefully take the gun outside. Be careful not to touch the painted parts, even if they look dry. Leave the gun on the box in the sun for 20 minutes.)
Return to work when you are sure the paint is dry. To see if the paint is dry, take a blade of grass and touch it to places where you are not sure if the paint has dried. Now touch the parts that stick out the most and where there is more paint. If the paint is dry, lightly touch it with your little finger. If the paint is not sticky, grab it A little stronger. If the paint still doesn't stick, lightly Rub your finger over the painted parts. If the paint is sticky, wait as long as you did the last time, otherwise you will regret it later. If the paint is dry, carefully pick up the gun and bring it back into the garage. Now take the same color and go over the places where the paint did not take. Also work carefully. Some parts need to be painted up to 5 times to get the paint to adhere and look great. Again, do not bring the can closer than 20 centimeters and do not overexpose it. If you hold it over one of the parts for more than 5 seconds, you may damage the gun.
Repeat the entire procedure again and again. When finished, move from light colors to dark ones. If necessary, apply dark colors over light ones. Never move on to another color until you have completed step #10 and are sure the paint is completely dry.
Leave the gun to dry for several days. Make sure that where you leave it (for example, your room) is dry. DO NOT remove the applied tape or remove the barrel plug.
Remove the tape. When removing the tape from the barrel, tilt the gun with the barrel down so that dry paint does not get inside the gun.
