Anyone who uses a hand drill knows how difficult it is to hold a strict vertical line with your hands. When drilling thick workpieces, there is a risk of breaking the drill. Every time there is a desire to guide the tool along the guide, but this is not possible.
The second common task is to drill many of the same type of holes in one workpiece. Holding a drill in your hands, doing such work is long and inconvenient.
Drilling tools have been used in locksmith workshops since ancient times. different power. But their cost is too high for home purchase.
Besides House master does not perform drilling on an industrial scale. Consequently, such a purchase will never pay off.
There are factory-made vertical drilling attachments that can turn a hand drill into a full-fledged one. drilling machine. Many of them are equipped with coordinate plates and movable vices.
Vertical stand for drilling holes with a drill
This is a really convenient purchase, but the cost of such a machine is comparable to the cost of a drill. Therefore, home craftsmen often make a homemade drilling machine.
Main advantages of the design- low cost and the ability to create a device that is ideally compatible with your hand drill. If there is an unnecessary photographic enlarger, microscope or other mechanism with a vertical feed of the working unit in the house (barn, garage), the task is simplified.
Homemade stand from an old microscope
All that remains is to adapt the drill to the product. If there is no such bonus, the stand is made from scratch.
What should the guide stand consist of? hand drill?
Preferably with the ability to install a vice or other device that holds the workpiece. At home, it is made from thick chipboard, plywood, or textolite. In the center of the axis of the installed drill, you need to leave a hole with a diameter of a couple of centimeters.
Description of the necessary parts of a drilling machine from a drill
Here the imagination of the developers is unlimited. It can be a block, a plywood plate, metallic profile or pipe.
Main principle during manufacturing - strictly vertical in relation to the supporting frame. Otherwise the drill will deviate from rectilinear movement, spoil the workpiece and break.
It can be a lever type, or use a gear-rack pair. It doesn’t matter in principle which design to choose. It is important to observe the principle of availability of materials, otherwise it may turn out to be cheaper to purchase ready product.
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The lifting and lowering mechanism is made by hand from boards |
The second example of a lifting mechanism made of metal |
Moreover, not only the drill can be fed to the workpiece. Sometimes it is more convenient to lift the product to the drill. For example, on compact models.
The perfect solution- usage seat for drill handle with clamp grip. It covers the shaft bearing and is optimal for centering the entire structure.
You don't have to spend money on a benchtop drill press because it's not that difficult to make your own. To do this, you will need to purchase, manufacture or use used parts. We will tell you about creating several designs, and you can choose your model for assembly.
Almost every owner who is building or renovating his house or apartment, repairing household and garden equipment, various crafts made of metal and wood. But for some operations, a drill is not enough: you need special precision, you want to drill a hole at a right angle in a thick board, or you just want to make your work easier. To do this, you will need a machine that can be made on the basis of various drives, machine parts or household appliances, other available material.
The type of drive is a fundamental difference in the designs of homemade drilling machines. Some of them are made using a drill, mostly electric, others using motors, most often from unnecessary household appliances.
The most common design can be considered a machine made from a hand or electric drill, which can be made removable, so that it can be used outside the machine, or stationary. In the latter case, the switching device can be moved to the frame for greater convenience.
The main elements of the machine are:
The base or frame can be made from a solid cut of hard wood, furniture board or chipboard. Some people prefer a metal plate, channel or tee as a base. The bed must be massive to ensure structural stability and compensate for vibrations during drilling to produce neat and accurate holes. The size of the frame made of wood is at least 600x600x30 mm, of sheet steel - 500x500x15 mm. For greater stability, the base can be made with eyes or holes for bolts and attached to the workbench.
The stand can be made of timber, round or square steel pipe. Some craftsmen use the frame of an old photographic enlarger, a substandard school microscope, and other parts that have a suitable configuration, strength and weight as a base and stand.
The drill is secured using clamps or brackets with a hole in the center. The bracket is more reliable and provides greater accuracy when drilling.
The feed mechanism is needed to move the drill vertically along the stand and can be:
Depending on the type of mechanism adopted, the type and structure of the rack will also differ.
The drawings and photos show the basic designs of tabletop drilling machines, which can be made from electric and hand drills.
With a spring mechanism: 1 - stand; 2 - metal or wooden profile; 3 — slider; 4 - hand drill; 5 — clamp for fastening the drill; 6 — screws for fastening the clamp; 7 - spring; 8 — square for securing the stand 2 pcs.; 9 - screws; 10 — stop for the spring; 11 — wing bolt for fastening the stop; 12 - base of the machine
With spring-lever mechanism
With a spring-hinged mechanism: 1 - bed; 2 — washer; 3 — M16 nut; 4 — shock-absorbing struts 4 pcs.; 5 - plate; 6 — bolt M6x16; 7 - power supply; 8 — thrust; 9 - spring; 10 — M8x20 bolt with nut and washers; 11 — drill chuck; 12 - shaft; 13 - cover; 14 — handle; 15 — bolt M8x20; 16 — holder; 17 — rack; 18 — cup with bearing; 19 - engine
With hinged springless mechanism
A stand operating on the principle of a screw jack: 1 - frame; 2 - guide groove; 3 - M16 thread; 4 - bushing; 5 - nut welded to the bushing; 6 - drill; 7 - handle, when rotated, the drill moves up or down
Drilling and milling machine: 1 - base of the machine; 2 — supports for the table lifting plate 2 pcs.; 3 - lifting plate; 4 — handle for lifting the table; 5 - movable drill holder; 6 — additional rack; 7 — screw for fixing the drill holder; 8 — clamp for fastening the drill; 9 — main rack; 10 — lead screw; 11 - drum with Vernier scale
Machine made from a car jack and drill
The carriage is made of furniture guides
Mini-machine from a decommissioned microscope
Base and stand from an old photographic enlarger
Machine made from a hand drill: 1 - bed; 2 — steel clamps; 3 — grooves for attaching a drill; 4 — drill fastening nut; 5 - drill; 6 - slider; 7 — guide tubes
Video 1. Step by step guide for an inexpensive machine. The bed and stand are wooden, the basis of the mechanism is a furniture guide
Video 2. Drilling machine - jack from Zhiguli and drill
Video 3. Spring-lever stand for drill
Video 4. Step by step creation steel rack for drill
A steering rack for a car and a drill are quite massive products, so the frame should also be massive and, preferably, with the ability to attach the machine to a workbench. All elements are welded, since connections with bolts and screws may not be sufficient.
The frame and support post are welded from channels or other suitable rolled products, about 5 mm thick. The steering rack is secured to a stand, which should be 70-80 mm longer than the rack, through the eyes of the steering column.
To make the machine more convenient to use, the drill control is placed in a separate block.
Video 5. Drilling machine based on a steering rack from Moskvich
Assembly procedure for tabletop drilling machines:
All fastenings must be made as securely as possible. It is advisable to join one-piece steel structures by welding. When using any kind of guides, you need to make sure that there is no lateral play during movement.
Advice! To fix the part in which the hole is drilled, the machine can be equipped with a vice.
You can also find ready-made stands for drills on sale. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the weight of the structure and the size of the working surface. Lightweight (up to 3 kg) and inexpensive (up to 1.5 thousand rubles) racks are suitable for making holes in a thin plywood sheet.
If there is no drill on the farm or it is not advisable to use it in the machine, you can make a design based on asynchronous motor, for example, from the old washing machine. The design and manufacturing process of such a machine are quite complex, so it is best to make it by a craftsman with sufficient experience in turning and milling work, and assembling electrical circuits.
To familiarize yourself with the design, we provide assembly drawings and detailing, as well as the characteristics of assembly units in the specifications.
Parts and materials for manufacturing the machine are shown in the table:
Table 1
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300x175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main stand | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and has an M12 thread cut into it |
| 4 | Spring | L = 100-120 mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | Lead screw | Tr16x2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Tr16x2 | |
| 9 | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | ||
| 10 | Lead screw bracket | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | Washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of drive pulleys for V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one stream to another |
| 15 | Electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | ||
| 18 | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | ||
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, from wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | ||
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | ||
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | The drive V-belt has a “zero” profile, so the grooves of the pulley block also have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Network cable with fork | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool chuck no. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head provides both translational and rotational movement. It is mounted on its own base - a duralumin console.
Parts and materials for manufacturing the spindle head are shown in the table:
table 2
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Steel circle Ø 12 mm | |
| 2 | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm | |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial rolling bearing No. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers-spacers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Special M6 screw with knurled button | |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm | |
| 10 | Bearing | Angular contact |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
Drilling machine assembled
The electrical circuit depends on the type of engine.
Simple electrical diagram for factory machine 2M112
Mini-machines for drilling circuit boards by radio amateurs also borrow the drive from various low-power devices. In this case, cutters for cutting photographs are used as levers, soldering irons, and collet pencils instead of a chuck. The drilling site is illuminated with LED flashlights—there are plenty of opportunities for technical creativity.
A simple electrical circuit for controlling an electric motor
Video 7. Mini machine for drilling circuit boards
A drill is a multifunctional tool, but human hands Given its weight, it is difficult to obtain special drilling accuracy. A do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill according to the proposed drawings may come in handy. If the drill is an everyday tool, it can be secured to the bracket with clamps. When a power tool is included in a permanent composition, the ballast assembly of the machine can be removed.
The drill press is used by those who create homemade items. They are made with imagination; it is difficult to find the necessary parts in the store and the meaning is lost. Craftsmen love to create everything themselves. Often such a craftsman is faced with the question of the accuracy of the holes that he must drill. Everyone knows that there is no way to accurately perform work under a canopy or on your knees. You will need a holder to secure the tool with the equipment.
Which drill to use depends on the nature of the craftsman’s hobby. The production of electronic circuit boards for radio amateurs requires a drill cross-section of 0.3 mm, manually at the slightest deviation from right angle the drill will burst. Only a small drilling machine will save the situation, but it is expensive. There is only one way out - to do it yourself.
On your own machine, created from scrap materials, you can:
The machine is a drilling machine, which means it is assumed to use a drill assembled with or a quick-clamping one. The tool must be mounted securely vertical rack and have freedom of movement up and down. The stand must be installed vertically and secured to a massive plate underneath, which is called the frame. The tool is simple to describe, but in order to achieve precision in performing operations, it is necessary to create a well-calibrated design. In special publications and the Internet you can find drawings of a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands from various materials.
Any tool created according to company standards is equipped with safety elements - protective screens, locks against accidental activation. When creating your tool, you need to take care of protection and take measures so that the machine does not fall into the hands of children.
Drilling is accompanied by strong vibration. Small shocks destroy the structure of materials; precise execution of operations cannot be achieved. Vibration is dampened by soft pads, which are mounted in places where the tool is attached, and a massive frame - vibration waves are dampened. Poor assembly, misalignment, and a shift in the center of gravity contribute to slight trembling of the instrument. All moving parts of a homemade drilling machine from a drill fit seamlessly, with minimal gaps. 
To help the master who is building a drilling machine from a drill for the first time with his own hands, drawings are offered. Assemble the structure from wooden blocks and use furniture board Any person with basic carpentry skills can use the frame. The wooden structure is fastened with self-tapping screws. 
Corners are used to fasten elements. The drill attachment unit can be made dismountable, on removable clamps, or the tool can be firmly built in. An important part of the device will be a movable sled device, along which the drill with drill moves during operation. Often, furniture telescopic guides are used to create runners. It is simply and clearly shown how to assemble a drilling machine with your own hands in the video:
The proposed option is universal and works equally well with metal, wood and other materials. But it is cumbersome and for small operations craftsmen make miniature machines using a tripod from a photo enlarger and a welded frame. In some cases, the steering column from the car is used. Metal frame structures require metalworking skills. How to make a drilling machine is decided depending on the availability of available parts and the purpose of the device.
A perfect example unusual design small device For radio technicians, a machine made from an old school microscope and a UAZ car windshield wiper motor will serve. The engine produces a lot of torque, but to use it you will need to lengthen the shaft. Its power and torque are sufficient to drill through foil-thin sheets of metal. The bracket itself needs modification - the fine adjustment and microscopic unit are removed and a miniature engine is mounted.
A newly manufactured machine requires additional adjustment. Test run carried out on a table where all irrelevant items have been removed. The machine is considered correctly assembled and ready for further work if:
When drilling, remember to heat up the device, periodically lift the equipment when drilling deep, you can use liquid for cooling.
Always remember, fast cutting tool is a source of increased danger. Changeover can only be carried out on de-energized equipment. Eyes should always be protected with goggles.
A selection of various drilling machines, created by the hands of masters, for all occasions confirms inexhaustible ingenuity craftsmen. You can buy everything in a store, but creating your own instrument is worthy of a master.
Construction stores offer us a huge range of different drilling machines in all price categories.
However, the cost is really quality model It hits your pocket hard, and there is no point in purchasing a cheap drilling machine from consumer Chinese manufacturers, the service life of which is ridiculous.
It is much easier to buy a good electric drill and use it to make a hand-held desktop homemade drilling machine that will fully meet all your requirements.
The cost of a high-quality drill is much less than that of full-fledged drilling machines.
In addition, you can use an electric drill that is already on the farm, since the design of the machine allows for its quick dismantling, which allows you to use one drill both in stationary and manual mode.
A tabletop drilling machine from a drill can be made on the basis of metal pipes, or on the basis wooden parts. We recommend that you give preference to the second option, since it is much less labor-intensive and does not require the use of either an angle grinder or a welding machine.
Wood homemade machine has strength, which is more than enough for normal household use.
You can make such a machine yourself, based on a drill, by following all the recommendations described below, with your own hands within two hours, and it will serve you for many years.
In order to make a tabletop drilling machine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
The actual work is carried out using the following tools:
To create a basic base for a homemade drilling machine, use a hacksaw to cut a 20*30 wooden beam into four pieces, two of which are 17 centimeters long, and two more are 20 centimeters long.
If you want to create a homemade machine based on a massive electric drill, then it would be better to make a larger base, since increasing its size will give the structure greater stability.
Next, prepare a board with dimensions of 200*220*20 millimeters (dimensions are based on the above dimensions of the timber). Using self-tapping screws, connect the beam sections into one frame. To connect at each end of the beam, you need to use two self-tapping screws; if you are using a thicker beam, you can screw in a self-tapping screw at each end corner.
Place a board on top of the resulting frame. Screw it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the beam; 2-3 bolts on one side will be more than enough.
To make your work easier, it is recommended Drill preliminary holes in the boards, into which it is much easier to screw self-tapping screws than into a solid board. To avoid protrusions of screw heads above wooden surface You can use a larger diameter drill to chamfer under their heads.
The width of the board for the column must correspond to the width of the created base, the thickness is 20 mm, and the height is determined depending on the size of the drill used, as a rule, a height of 40-50 centimeters will be more than enough. An excessively high column can negatively affect the stability of the entire structure.
After you have cut the board suitable size, immediately attach it to the base using self-tapping screws. Next, you need to arrange the free space between the column itself and the electric drill; to do this, attach two pieces of timber, measuring 25*35*17 millimeters, parallel to each other, in the center of the upper part of the column.
To avoid making a mistake with the installation location, make preliminary markings. Draw a straight line from the center point of the top of the column down, then step back 50 mm on each side and draw two lines parallel to each other. The distance between the lines should be 100 mm.
Pay close attention to so that the lines are strictly parallel to each other, so even the slightest angle of inclination of the trajectory along which the guides move risks the fact that the drill will not enter the surface being processed at a right angle, which is why when drilling hard metal surfaces, thin drills will break very quickly .
Installation of guides is perhaps the most the hard part creating a drilling machine with your own hands. It is extremely important that the guides run exactly perpendicular to the base of the machine and parallel to each other.
Prepare two boards measuring 100*250*20 mm, and mark on them the places where the retractable slats will be attached. Sold in furniture stores the retractable slats are already equipped with holes for self-tapping screws, so All you have to do is screw them to the guides with your own hands. After the slats are attached, we mount the guides on the column.
We suggest you make a universal mount with your own hands, which is suitable for installing not only a mini-drill, but also a full-fledged electric drill. To do this, prepare a board with dimensions 60*100*20 for the upper holder, and 100*100*20 for the lower one.
Use a jigsaw to cut a hole in the center of the bottom board, the diameter of which is suitable for securely fixing your drill. Secure it to the guide using furniture corner and self-tapping screws.
We also cut out the top holder using jigsaws. Its size and shape are individual and depend on what shape of drill you will use. We make holes around the perimeter of both clamps and screw in screws that will clamp and firmly fix the drill in the holder.
A height limiter is necessary so that a homemade drilling machine can make multiple holes of identical depth. Perfect for creating a limiter metal rod with M8 thread.
Drill a hole in the base in which the rod will be installed (it should be tightly fixed in the base, but at the same time rotate freely).
Next, we cut out a small piece of timber, drill a hole in it and install a threaded sleeve on one side, and a piece of rod that will limit the amplitude of movement of the guides on the other. We screw the beam onto the main rod.
For manual tabletop drilling the machine was more convenient to use, You need to make a handle on the restrictive rod.
This can be an ordinary homemade plywood stop, which is fixedly fixed between two nuts.
In order to save time, you can buy a ready-made inexpensive stand and vice for a drill in the OBI.RU store, which allows you to fix the drill in a vertical position and use it as a drilling machine, thereby increasing the accuracy and speed of work.
Characteristics:
You don't have to spend money on a benchtop drill press because it's not that difficult to make your own. To do this, you will need to purchase, manufacture or use used parts. We will tell you about creating several designs, and you can choose your model for assembly.
Almost every owner who builds or repairs his house or apartment, repairs household and garden equipment, and various crafts made of metal and wood has a drill. But for some operations, a drill is not enough: you need special precision, you want to drill a hole at a right angle in a thick board, or you just want to make your work easier. To do this, you will need a machine that can be made on the basis of various drives, machine parts or household appliances, and other available materials.
The type of drive is a fundamental difference in the designs of homemade drilling machines. Some of them are made using a drill, mostly electric, others using motors, most often from unnecessary household appliances.
The most common design can be considered a machine made from a hand or electric drill, which can be made removable, so that it can be used outside the machine, or stationary. In the latter case, the switching device can be moved to the frame for greater convenience.
The main elements of the machine are:
The base or frame can be made from a solid cut of hard wood, furniture board or chipboard. Some people prefer a metal plate, channel or tee as a base. The bed must be massive to ensure structural stability and compensate for vibrations during drilling to produce neat and accurate holes. The size of the frame made of wood is at least 600x600x30 mm, of sheet steel - 500x500x15 mm. For greater stability, the base can be made with eyes or holes for bolts and attached to the workbench.
The stand can be made of timber, round or square steel pipe. Some craftsmen use the frame of an old photographic enlarger, a substandard school microscope, and other parts that have a suitable configuration, strength and weight as a base and stand.
The drill is secured using clamps or brackets with a hole in the center. The bracket is more reliable and provides greater accuracy when drilling.
The feed mechanism is needed to move the drill vertically along the stand and can be:
Depending on the type of mechanism adopted, the type and structure of the rack will also differ.
The drawings and photos show the basic designs of tabletop drilling machines, which can be made from electric and hand drills.
With a spring mechanism: 1 - stand; 2 - metal or wooden profile; 3 — slider; 4 - hand drill; 5 — clamp for fastening the drill; 6 — screws for fastening the clamp; 7 - spring; 8 — square for securing the stand 2 pcs.; 9 - screws; 10 — stop for the spring; 11 — wing bolt for fastening the stop; 12 - base of the machine
With spring-lever mechanism
With a spring-hinged mechanism: 1 - bed; 2 — washer; 3 — M16 nut; 4 — shock-absorbing struts 4 pcs.; 5 - plate; 6 — bolt M6x16; 7 - power supply; 8 — thrust; 9 - spring; 10 — M8x20 bolt with nut and washers; 11 — drill chuck; 12 - shaft; 13 - cover; 14 — handle; 15 — bolt M8x20; 16 — holder; 17 — rack; 18 — cup with bearing; 19 - engine
With hinged springless mechanism
A stand operating on the principle of a screw jack: 1 - frame; 2 - guide groove; 3 - M16 thread; 4 - bushing; 5 - nut welded to the bushing; 6 - drill; 7 - handle, when rotated, the drill moves up or down
Drilling and milling machine: 1 - base of the machine; 2 — supports for the table lifting plate 2 pcs.; 3 - lifting plate; 4 — handle for lifting the table; 5 - movable drill holder; 6 — additional rack; 7 — screw for fixing the drill holder; 8 — clamp for fastening the drill; 9 — main rack; 10 — lead screw; 11 - drum with Vernier scale
Machine made from a car jack and drill
The carriage is made of furniture guides
Mini-machine from a decommissioned microscope
Base and stand from an old photographic enlarger
Machine made from a hand drill: 1 - bed; 2 — steel clamps; 3 — grooves for attaching a drill; 4 — drill fastening nut; 5 - drill; 6 - slider; 7 — guide tubes
Video 1. Step-by-step guide for an inexpensive machine. The bed and stand are wooden, the basis of the mechanism is a furniture guide
Video 2. Drilling machine - jack from Zhiguli and drill
Video 3. Spring-lever stand for drill
Video 4. Step-by-step creation of a steel stand for a drill
A steering rack for a car and a drill are quite massive products, so the frame should also be massive and, preferably, with the ability to attach the machine to a workbench. All elements are welded, since connections with bolts and screws may not be sufficient.
The frame and support post are welded from channels or other suitable rolled products, about 5 mm thick. The steering rack is secured to a stand, which should be 70-80 mm longer than the rack, through the eyes of the steering column.
To make the machine more convenient to use, the drill control is placed in a separate block.
Video 5. Drilling machine based on a steering rack from Moskvich
Assembly procedure for tabletop drilling machines:
All fastenings must be made as securely as possible. It is advisable to join one-piece steel structures by welding. When using any kind of guides, you need to make sure that there is no lateral play during movement.
Advice! To fix the part in which the hole is drilled, the machine can be equipped with a vice.
You can also find ready-made stands for drills on sale. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the weight of the structure and the size of the working surface. Lightweight (up to 3 kg) and inexpensive (up to 1.5 thousand rubles) racks are suitable for making holes in a thin plywood sheet.
If there is no drill on the farm or it is not desirable to use it in the machine, you can make a design based on an asynchronous motor, for example, from an old washing machine. The design and manufacturing process of such a machine are quite complex, so it is best to make it by a craftsman with sufficient experience in turning and milling work, and assembling electrical circuits.
To familiarize yourself with the design, we provide assembly drawings and detailing, as well as the characteristics of assembly units in the specifications.
Parts and materials for manufacturing the machine are shown in the table:
Table 1
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300x175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main stand | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and has an M12 thread cut into it |
| 4 | Spring | L = 100-120 mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | Lead screw | Tr16x2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Tr16x2 | |
| 9 | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | ||
| 10 | Lead screw bracket | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | Washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of drive pulleys for V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one stream to another |
| 15 | Electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | ||
| 18 | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | ||
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, from wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | ||
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | ||
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | The drive V-belt has a “zero” profile, so the grooves of the pulley block also have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Network cable with plug | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool chuck no. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head provides both translational and rotational motion. It is mounted on its own base - a duralumin console.
Parts and materials for manufacturing the spindle head are shown in the table:
table 2
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Steel circle Ø 12 mm | |
| 2 | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm | |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial rolling bearing No. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers-spacers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Special M6 screw with knurled button | |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm | |
| 10 | Bearing | Angular contact |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
Drilling machine assembled
The electrical circuit depends on the type of engine.
A simple electrical circuit for a factory machine 2M112
Mini-machines for drilling circuit boards by radio amateurs also borrow the drive from various low-power devices. In this case, cutters for cutting photographs are used as levers, soldering irons, and collet pencils instead of a chuck. The drilling site is illuminated with LED flashlights—there are plenty of opportunities for technical creativity.
A simple electrical circuit for controlling an electric motor
Video 7. Mini machine for drilling circuit boards
