The interior, made of natural wood, looks very solid, presentable, soft and pleasant. Coniferous material is especially valuable, which also, during operation, contributes to the natural health of all residents of the house. But there is one problem that arises when laying coniferous wood - how to get rid of resin on the boards, which must be solved correctly. How to remove resin from wood in a pine bath or steam room? This is exactly what this article will be about.
Coniferous wood species such as pine, spruce, and larch are extremely beautiful, but they emit natural resins not only after cutting, but also during growth. This resin is a very viscous, fluid substance, so the process of interior finishing becomes significantly more complicated, because:
It is best to remove resin only after the board has been sanded. Although compliance with this rule will not be a guarantee that the “resin” will not manifest itself again. Sometimes such a substance begins to ooze under the influence certain factors after completion finishing works. This factor must be taken into account before choosing coniferous finishing for your home.
In order to correctly prepare all the elements for laying the floor, wall covering or ceiling, you need to properly get rid of the resin on the boards. This can be done in several ways.
IN in this case To remove the resin from the boards, you must wait until the fluid mass has completely hardened. Then, armed with a knife, remove each piece by hand.
Important! After removing all unwanted deposits, it is necessary to sand the surface of the wood with sandpaper or a special tool.
To dissolve the “resin”, you can also use available chemicals. The following tools are suitable for this purpose:
Important! The use of any of these solvents does not affect the structure and shade of coniferous wood. But when using it, it is advisable to protect yourself with gloves and a respirator so that caustic volatile vapors do not provoke irritation of the skin and mucous membranes.
You can also get rid of resin on boards using traditional methods, which consist in the use of available kitchen and pharmacy solutions and powders.
The following methods effectively help solve the problem:
Important! Any of these products can only be applied to a sanded, but not painted surface. Otherwise, the acetone will dissolve the paint and look narrower. finished finishing will not be the most attractive way.
In order not to damage the wood either by mechanical or chemical influence, or in case of small amount“resin”, use the following means to get rid of resin on boards:
Important! The latter remedy is also good for removing alkali residues after using any other substance or solution in order to get rid of resin on boards. Helps a lot, including when you’re already washing finished walls and it is necessary to remove the cleaning residue from the joints of the crowns.
If the resin began to appear from the boards after they were laid on the walls, you are unlikely to have the desire to spend a lot of time precisely removing each piece of “resin” with solvents or a knife.
In this case, you can burn all places where pine tree sap is formed. blowtorch, then sanding them with sandpaper of a suitable grit level.
When giving preference to coniferous boards, remember that you will not be able to completely get rid of resin on the boards. It can appear at any moment, the most unexpected for you. But it's really not like that global problem, because it is possible to remove the “resin”, but the beauty, environmental friendliness and benefits of such wood cannot be compared with any modern plastic or other material. Let your home be filled with only the pleasant aroma of pine needles and always look cozy. And now you know how to deal with minor resin problems.
Wood is an unsurpassed material, but wood defects are found everywhere. Resins, resin pockets, knots and dents not only spoil appearance products, but they can also come back to haunt you with unpleasant surprises. To protect yourself from such surprises, you should not ignore minor wood defects, but fix them yourself.
All types of wood suffer from knots, especially coniferous ones. The knots can be healthy or rotten. They not only spoil the aesthetic appearance of the wood, but can also become a source of rot for the entire product. Find a big one wooden blank without a single knot is very rare, so you have to solve the problem on your own.
First, you need to drill to a certain depth the place where the knot is located - about 1 cm. Next, we adjust the size of the wood plug - you need to take not only the same species, but also wood from the same batch (if possible). Coat the hole thoroughly and insert the finished plug, following the direction of the fibers. When the glue dries, cut off the cork. It is better to do this not with a chisel, since the cork can chip, but with a special file.
And only after that we putty the place where the plug is inserted. It is necessary to putty, otherwise over time a dark rim will appear around the former knot in the wood. It's better to do this twice: wood putty - belt sanding grinding machine– wood putty - hand sanding.
A resin pocket is a cavity between or inside the annual layers of wood, filled with gum or. Characteristic for, and. Resin pockets do not so much reduce the quality of the wood as they can leak resin onto its surface again and again. Even after years. Even through oil paint. Therefore, it is imperative to seal the resin pocket.
In the old fashioned way, this minor wood defect was simply puttied, after first cleaning off the resin with a knife or spatula. But the resin will definitely show through over time. Some “bother” and make an insert in the shape of a pocket. But this can be done much easier, and, most importantly, more efficiently.
Resin pockets are selected using a manual milling machine, after which a ready-made, factory-made insert is inserted into the resulting recess. This insert looks like a boat, and the carpenter calls it “boat”. Next, it’s almost the same as with knots: we treat the recess with glue, insert a boat, give it time to dry, cut it and sand it. As a rule, the boat fits very tightly into the recess, so that subsequent putty is not required.
The process itself is not complicated, but difficulties may arise when finding boats - they are not made in our country, there are only imported ones. The same applies to cutters - they are not cheap.
Putty, or wood putty carried out if there is a need to repair chips, dents, potholes and other minor wood defects. There is a huge selection of these putties in stores - choose according to your taste, experience, ask specialists.
It is carried out just before grinding - after you have sealed the resin pockets and knots. If the damage is shallow, one putty will be enough; if it is deep enough, it is better to putty, sand and repeat the cycle. Remember to allow drying time for the putty.
It is better to give a little more putty - it can be sanded off after drying. But you shouldn’t mess around either - not all wood products cover putty well.
Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board, correspondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"
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Resin pocket - the very name of this defect explains its nature as a certain void or cavity formed between the layers in coniferous wood and filled with resin. In addition to the fact that such a defect reduces the strength of the wood, it also makes working with it more difficult because the resin envelops and contaminates the tool. Serious difficulties arise in connection with this defect in the finishing of products - grinding, painting, impregnation.
Grinding
- a consequence of injury to a coniferous tree trunk. The defect is expressed in the impregnation of all the wood at the site of this injury with resin. The color of the tarred area is darker than the surrounding wood. The wood at the site of tarring is much heavier than the base wood and is of little use for carving. The strength of the wood at the site of tarring is significantly weakened.
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| Crayfish on a tree: 1 - crayfish on a tree 2 - section |
Cancer - disruption of wood tissue on the surface of the trunk with penetration deep into the middle of the trunk, resulting from infection by parasitic fungi and bacteria. IN coniferous trees Along the borders of the infected area, abundant gumming occurs. At the same time, throughout the entire period of the disease, wood does not grow in the affected area, the affected area does not heal, but on the opposite side, as if to compensate for the loss, due to increased growth, a peculiar swelling (tumor) is formed, characteristic of this defect. Such wood, as you can already understand, is not suitable for carving. After cleaning the wood from the affected fibers, the remaining part can be suitable for making decorative sculptures and other decorative items, used in the design of both interiors and exteriors.
