So what should you consider when determining the height of your bar stool? Let's consider the main factors:
Now let's take a closer look at an example of how to make a chair from solid wood. As for wood, the most available material– pine and birch. They are available for free sale. When choosing, make sure that they are free of knots and other damage. This is important, because the product should ultimately be quite durable.
So, for manufacturing you will need to prepare the following blanks:
Part No. 1 will serve as a seat. As for part No. 2, it will play the role of a backing under the seat.
When cutting the legs, make sure that the wood structure is vertical, i.e. the cuts are not made against the grain.
You should also cut out the stiffeners, as indicated in the schematic diagram:
To assemble this you will need 3 types of screws:
Below is a step-by-step assembly process:
To prevent cracking of the workpieces, pre-drill holes for them.
At the end of the work, painting is carried out.
If you like metal products, then you can make a metal chair yourself without much difficulty. Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the manufacturing process using photo instructions.
To work, you will need a metal strip up to 5 mm thick. After making a small sketch on cardboard, cut off strips of the desired size.
This article deliberately does not indicate dimensions, since in this case everyone can make the seat of the chair at their own discretion.
The strips are securely welded together. Pay attention to the quality of welding. Although everything will be sanded later, it is important to apply a careful weld. The appearance of the chair will only benefit from this.
Also, at your discretion, mark out the cross members in a chaotic arrangement inside the seat frame. It is important here to ensure that there are no openings that are too large.
Just like the seat frame, you scald all the cross members. After this, clean each weld seam from slag with a grinder with a grinding wheel installed on it, not forgetting to wear safety glasses.
To prevent injury, smooth everything out sharp corners blanks.
Next, make the legs from the pipes. They must be the same size, which can be determined from the table at the beginning of this article. Weld all four blanks to the already made seat. To strengthen the structure, weld cross members. They will additionally serve to support your legs. Do not rush to weld thoroughly. First on the tacks to try on and adjust everything.
If everything fits, then you can carefully weld the parts. As a result, the raw bar stool will look like this:
If you leave the legs as is, they will scratch the floor, may break tiles and, worst of all, make noise. unpleasant sound when they move. Therefore, you can hammer into the lower part of the legs wooden wedges, as shown in the picture below. So, you can increase the stability of the entire structure.
Some kind of wooden “plugs” are not attached in any way. They will be held in place by friction and pressure. Be sure to make adjustments wooden blank so that it is flush with the leg.
When the bar stool frame is ready, it can be painted. Pre-sand all welding areas and also make sure there are no sharp protrusions. Apply primer.
You can paint the legs and seating area any color you like.
If you have your own ideas for making such furniture, be sure to write about it in the comments to this article. At the end, we invite you to consider the drawings and photos of finished bar stools. Perhaps you will find quite a few interesting ideas for myself.
This subsection will help you understand design features and detailing of bar stools:
The spacious kitchen allows you to make the most of the space: you can place not only the usual dining table here, but also a bar counter with chairs. You can make a bar stool at home with your own hands, having a minimal set of tools and knowing the basics of woodworking. It will be a little more difficult to make kitchen furniture from metal pipes.
You need to start making a bar stool with your own hands by determining the material, as well as taking measurements and creating a drawing. It is better to make the structure from wood (pine, birch) or metal (from pipes). A good economical option is plywood or chipboard panels, they are reliable and durable. Having chosen the material for the product, you can move on to the next stage - coming up with a shape and creating a drawing.
DIY bar stools must have long legs, but everything else is optional. For example, the design may have a small back or soft seat, square or round shapes. All this should be reflected in the drawings. When developing them, it is worth taking the height of the bar counter as a basis and subtracting 350 mm. This way, the height of the furniture is correct and convenient to use. This is a standard calculation. As for the height of the backrest, it should be no lower than 20 and no higher than 60 cm.
Have you decided to make a chair out of wood? Logs are an excellent preparation for the product.
Their thickness should be at least 20-30 cm, otherwise the chair will sag. However, if the thickness of the material is greater, then it is difficult to work with. The logs need to be cut into 10 parts, which must correspond to the dimensions in the drawings.
Please note: the cut should be made vertically so that the wood structure is not damaged and remains vertical, otherwise it will reduce the strength of the chair.
After cutting, the assembly stage of the product begins. For this you will need:
Start collecting wooden chair it is necessary according to the following scheme: the legs are fastened together, then the stiffening ribs are installed on the metal corners, the small circle is screwed to the legs, and the main seat is fixed on top of the entire structure. The chair is ready! The product is varnished for practicality.
Classic version for the kitchen - a high chair with a rectangular seat. As in the first option, when calculating the height, you need to start from the height of the bar counter. Classic optimal parameters are indicated in the figure.
Logs are suitable as a material. Their thickness should be 30 mm, size 5x5 cm. After cutting the logs into the required parts, you can begin assembling the furniture.
Start assembling the chair from the legs. So that they are inclined towards each other, you need to transform them by bevelling the corners and chamfers at both ends by 5 degrees. Now you can attach the top and bottom strips. Thus, we got 2 parts of the chair, parallel to each other. The next stage is the attachment of perpendicular partitions - at the top and bottom. It is important to understand here that the lower perpendicular partition will serve as a support for the legs, so it must be secured at a comfortable level.
Let's move on to making the seat. Markings should be made at the end of the board, and then the required shape should be cut out. Will help give unusual curves a circular saw. It is necessary to clean the part grinder.
The final stage is connecting the chair legs and the seat. Holes are drilled in the tops of the legs and the bottom of the seat, and the 2 parts are fastened using pins. You can put them not only on pins, but also glue them with PVA glue to make the chair more stable. The product is coated with varnish or paint.
A metal product will become a decoration kitchen interior in loft or industrial styles. A metal chair will especially look original at the bar counter in the kitchen. It can be made from iron pipes.
To create furniture you will need:
The diameter of the pipes depends on the type of furniture. But it is worth considering that the structure must withstand the weight of a person and the pressure of the seat. It is recommended to take material with a diameter of at least 5 cm. The height of the legs is determined and the pipe blank of the required length is cut, preferably with a small margin of 1-2 cm.
Now you need to shape the material. This can be done using a pipe bender: the upper parts of the pipes are bent into the shape of a semicircle. They are fastened together with mounting bolts.
The seat can be made of metal or plywood. In the first option, the required shape is drawn on a piece of iron, then cut out and attached to a curved pipe blank using welding or bolts. In the second option, the plywood base is cut out into the required shape and attached to metal frame. In this case, the seat should be covered with fabric and foam rubber to make it comfortable for use. Please note: a chair with iron legs can scratch the floor, so it is worth “putting on” plastic or rubber “socks”.
Another “latest” product that drank my blood at almost all stages. When making it, I had to strain myself and apply previously acquired skills and try something new (more on that later).
I was inspired to make this bar stool by a comment on one of my posts: “Can you make a bar stool?” and the beginning of the harvesting season. The fact is that the same mushrooms and other vegetables and fruits are more convenient to process next to the sink, the sink is high - 85 cm. It’s hard to stand on your feet for a long time, and a simple chair - a stool - is a little low. So I decided to make a high stool for my wife, pathetically calling it a “bar stool.”
Photo for priming
Troubles with the chair began almost at the stage of purchasing lumber. It was supposed to use a block with a cross-section of 30*30, but due to its absence, it was necessary to buy a 30*40, also spliced, which later required a recalculation of the entire structure, inconvenience during one of the operations and an overall slight, but still increase in the cost of the project. 
Let's start sawing. I sawed 4 bars 570 mm long and 4 450 mm long. 
First I made two blanks from a long-short-long block, then glued a couple more short ones between them. And again, in addition to clamps, I had to use clamps from a grinder and a circular saw. 
I made a milling box from scraps of plywood and boards prepared for making seats. Since bars of a larger cross-section were used, the box had to be made bigger size, mill more wood and The final stage milling was done with the cutter extended out of the collet as much as possible. It was still necessary to dissolve the bars in size 30*30 as previously planned.
The 8 pin goes through the entire rack (it would be more correct to use bolts of a larger diameter, there would be less vibration). It was not possible to turn the drill, the rotations were very high, and the router stopped at low speeds. As a result, I had to tighten the stud with nuts and rotate the workpiece inside the box with my hands, constantly tightening the nuts. As a good idea, it was necessary to make a cutter that rotates the blank 10-15 degrees.
The milling box is one of those technologies that I wanted to try. Experience has been gained and conclusions have been drawn. 
One way or another, the stand was machined. 
Next, I make the seat and footrest in improvised mounts. The seat and footrest will be round, with a diameter of 310 mm. Glued together from two panels with the lamellas located across each other, as I hope this will give the necessary strength. 
Using a plywood router, a ring was made along which the outer edge of the seat and footrests, as well as the inside of the seat, will be processed. 
Something like this. I milled the outside with a milling cutter with a bearing, and blindly milled the inside using a copy sleeve. 
Marking the footrest: aligned the central pillar in place and outlined the outline. 
In the corner I marked where to drill the transition holes. The feather drill played a cruel joke on me - it tore the wood, I had to put a lot of putty. 
First, I marked with a thin drill where the tip of the pen would go, then I used a pen to drill holes of the required diameter and cut out sections using jigsaws, after which I smoothed everything out with sandpaper on a block. It was necessary to make a template from plywood and mill out the holes; the quality of the cut would have been much better and would not have had to waste a lot of time finishing it with sandpaper. 
The result of puttying wood breaks from the feather. Glue Carpenter Moment D3 in this regard is much worse than D2 when processed with sandpaper, first the wood is eaten, then the glue. 
Leg blanks are glued together from the bars. 
Using a plywood template I give them shape. And then unexpectedly, the template rips off the workpiece (it was loosely secured with nails) and the cutter spoils the workpiece. Bida - pichal, the last trim of the bars went into action, only - just enough. 
I glue a cross into the seat, it is assembled on grooves. 
I also prepare grooves in the legs for their assembly. 
Then I mill the edges and assemble them. It seems to have worked out well. Next there should have been a photograph in the title of all the prepared parts for assembly. 
I sand the seat especially carefully. 
The fitting chair is assembled dry. 
Connecting parts to each other. 
Firstly, I painted all the parts separately, which ultimately caused trouble.
The non-water stain from Novbytkhim (Oregon and ebony), despite cleaning the wood from dust and wiping it with white alcohol, rolled into clumps during the painting process. I had to sand them several times and smear them with solvent. It turned out something like this. 
Later, when applying yacht varnish, the “chief technologist” from the same Novbytkhim found out that it dissolves the stain. Well, as a cherry on the cake, when gluing the parts together, so that PUR-501 does not stain the parts, close them near the gluing site masking tape. Yep... when removing the tape, pieces of varnish and stain remained on the tape. (There will be no photos, because I really freaked out). I had to re-sand and repaint some elements. In addition, when you try to touch up areas with torn varnish with stain, it turns out that it swells the varnish. Damn, I should have first assembled everything with glue, and then stained and varnished it.
But the result makes me happy. 
The cat is not happy. There's not enough room for his ass. 
Well, the actual reason for choosing such colors. 
My wife hinted that we probably need to change the facades of the kitchen, so that they are made of wood and match the color of the chair. And so that the veins could be seen. :)
The total price of lumber is approximately 500 rubles (twenty boards left 2 meters). Two types of stain for 150 rubles each (2/3 of each bottle left), the varnish was purchased earlier for the table, there is still half a jar left). I don’t think it’s glue, I didn’t use enough of it. Well, one sanding block with a grit of 180 for 70 rubles. Circles for the orbital, well, I probably erased a couple. And then, their fabric no longer clings to the hooks, the grain is still normal, they will be used by hand. In general, let the budget be 1000 rubles.
Chair dimensions: height 65 cm, diameter of seat and footrest 31 cm, legs at the edges 41 cm.
Well the last word. As I said earlier. I am not a professional carpenter or a hobbyist, you can call me a novice amateur. I understand perfectly well that it could have been done better. The main reason for writing this post is to offer an option for making a “bar stool”.
1. Characteristics of a bar stool.
2. Tools and materials.
3. Manufacturing sequence.
Bar stools are a convenient accessory for tables with a height of more than 850 mm. Outwardly, they may look similar to ordinary stools, but only with elongated legs. The height of the chair should be 300 - 350 mm lower than the level of the tabletop.
The remaining parameters (width, length, height of the legs, presence of a backrest) are adapted to the user’s wishes and the design of the room. Let's look at how you can make a bar stool with your own hands from timber, which, for example, can be purchased at hardware stores.
Often apartments differ in the size of individual rooms, and most often this concerns the kitchen. It may simply be larger than the usual area, or the apartment may be converted into a studio. In any case, a bar counter is often placed in such rooms, since it is not only stylish, but also practical - in modern world families are rarely for dining table turn out to be For this, a homemade bar stool will suit you.
Nobody says to forget about furniture stores and do everything yourself. I saw photos of bar stools from various popular catalogs furniture stores, and therefore I can say that it is quite possible to make a similar chair yourself.
Moreover, pieces of furniture to which the owner had a hand become a real decoration of the house, and at the same time they also warm the soul.
In addition, when self-production you will have more flexibility in creating a chair that you think will best suit the room's decor. What can we say if you like to work with your hands.
The first thing you need to decide is the height of the chair. This will depend on the height of the bar counter. Please note that an exclusive bar stool self made should be not only beautiful, but also comfortable, and this applies both to how you sit on it and how you sit on it. Only then does it come time for design.
In fact, you can start with appearance, only then it may turn out that it needs to be adjusted due to ergonomic features.
Regarding the design, you first need to decide on the number of legs, and whether there will be any at all. The best option in this regard would be a chair with four legs - it is reliable, practical, and easier to implement.
The presence of a backrest, to which armrests can be added, will add convenience. If you plan to often sit on it while eating, then it is better to immediately think about at least the backrest.
Next comes the upholstery of the chair, if there is any at all. A completely wooden chair will look great in almost any interior; in addition, if it is varnished or painted, it will also work in other cases.
If you are making a bar stool with your own hands from wood, then you will need about ten separate finished parts for him. The same applies to other chair materials.
Regarding the choice of material, it is worth saying that hardwoods such as maple, beech or simple oak are best suited. In general, when creating a chair yourself, the wood will be the most the best option, in the ratio of result to effort. In addition, wooden chairs look very good in the home.
Having decided on the drawings of the bar stool, you need to get materials. Everything you may need in the process can be bought at any hardware store or construction supermarket. Regarding the details of the chair itself, it is better to go and order them from the workshop. With your dimensions, they will cut out the parts necessary for the design very inexpensively.
Depending on the design you have chosen, there may be more than ten parts, in addition, they will be added upholstery materials, which will also need to be somehow attached to the chair.
In addition, after you assemble the chair, it would be a good idea to soak it with a primer to protect it from moisture, if you do not plan to coat it with varnish or paint.
As for DIY metal bar stools, there will be certain difficulties. This option is suitable for you only if you are used to working with metal, has suitable tools and you can make the necessary parts yourself. In addition, if you do not plan to make connectors for fasteners, you will also need to do some welding.
In contrast, a wooden chair can be assembled with a screwdriver, a simple hacksaw, self-tapping screws and sandpaper. The description is quite superficial, but very simply shows the difference.
Despite the fact that there are a lot of ideas for making bar stools, both on the Internet and in magazines, it always comes down to one thing - melting measurements.
First, you must decide on the height of your chair. It should be approximately 35-40 centimeters below the bar counter - this is the distance from the tabletop of the counter to the seat of the chair. After this, you can safely make drawings, or use ready-made ones that you can easily find on the Internet.
For the simplest bar stool, you will need four legs, preferably the same number of legs, and the seat itself. In the case of a backrest, you need to make two legs longer, about 30-35 centimeters, since their protruding part will become the basis of the backrest.
During all stages, you can easily make a mistake. This may apply to both measurements and preparation of parts. To do this, it is better to check your measurements several times before entering them into the drawings, or cutting off an unnecessary part of the part.
Ready-made drawings, which I have already mentioned several times above, can help you with this. This is especially true for those who have never designed them before. The main thing is not to rush anywhere and work for the result, and not for show.
