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Evgeniy Sedov

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Content

The construction of warm beds is a universal technology in agriculture, used in spring and autumn, in greenhouses and open ground, based on compost heat generation. Using this technology, the gardener plants vegetable crops earlier and receives a harvest longer than under normal conditions. There are several types of beds, choose the one that suits you.

What are warm beds

With this technology, organic residues, when decomposed, release heat, heating the roots of vegetable crops. Plants tolerate spring temperature changes better and ripen faster. The decomposition of organic matter produces nutrients, vegetables receive nutrition throughout the season, and there is no need for additional organic fertilizers.

Design principles

The basic principle of the device is that heterogeneous organic matter is laid in layers. The deeper, the rougher the layers should be - branches, stems and chopped trunks are placed at the bottom. This layer will be the “fuel”, drainage, providing air access. The next layers are smaller - newspapers, chopped branches, grass. Before placing the next layer, it is necessary to water the previous one well so that the layers do not dry out. An important rule is that the raw materials should not be affected by disease or rot.

Types of warm beds

There are four types of beds. If the site is located close to groundwater, you can construct a high bed - it is not afraid of spring flooding; if the site is dry - a buried one - it needs watering less often. Using different types, you can make maximum use of the usable area of ​​your summer cottage for planting vegetables. An important condition: the layers must be watered frequently, since the work of microorganisms that process organic matter is possible only in a humid environment.

High

A bed located on the ground is called high. Its height ranges from 50 to 80 cm. The basic principles of its structure:

• the turf is removed (10-15 cm);
• the bottom is filled with a drainage layer of sand or crushed stone;
• the bed is fenced with a wooden box, which is impregnated with an antiseptic;
• Coarse organic materials - branches, chopped tree trunks, etc. - are placed on the drainage layer;
• the second layer consists of small organic matter - tops of garden plants, weeds;
• the third layer is made from residues that can decompose over a season - humus, foliage;
• Water each layer well and compact it;
• The top is covered with fertile soil; its thickness should be at least 20 cm.

Warm bed-hill

A type of raised bed can be considered a hilly bed or a “Holster hilly ridge.” The principle of laying out the layers is the same, only it is not enclosed with a wooden frame, and the edges are rounded. Outwardly, it resembles an embankment, approximately 1 meter high. This warm do-it-yourself garden bed is convenient because it increases the usable area of ​​the garden: its surface is wider than the base. Filling:

• first layer (depth 30 cm): coarse organic residues. Experts believe that a warm bed of sawdust increases soil looseness;
• second layer: chopped branches, leaves;
• third layer: foliage, green organic matter, soil;
• the upper layer is covered with straw.

sunken bed

The opposite design is high - buried or trench, necessary when watering is difficult or in regions where the soil takes a long time to warm up after winter. It lasts longer than high or hilly ones - about 8 years. For it, a trench is dug with a depth of at least 2 spade bayonets, sand is poured into the bottom of the trench, then layers of biofuel are poured. Gardeners, to protect the layers from the cold deep soil, suggest lining the bottom with closed plastic bottles. Further filling of the sunken bed is similar to the previous ones.

Combined

If the dacha plot is located in areas where groundwater occurs, you can build a combined bed. This is a shallow trench with a drainage layer at the bottom, on which a box is installed, so that part of it is in the ground and part above the ground, 30-50 cm high. Fill the combined bed with the same material as the rest, the top layer should be level with box sides. Care and watering are the same for all types, except for one difference - the buried one is watered less often.

Do-it-yourself warm beds

This technology has earned the love of gardeners because it is universal: with its help you can set up a garden anywhere. Even on infertile soils, warm beds will produce a good harvest. An additional advantage of the technology is that beds of any type can be made with your own hands from available material. They do not require labor-intensive care, and, subject to simple rules, any vegetable crops can be grown on them.

When to make a warm bed

This method can be used in both spring and autumn. The time of year does not matter in the device, the only differences are in the composition of the biomaterial of the upper layer. If you make a warm bed in the fall, layers of fresh organic matter will go into it - leaves, small branches - any organic debris. It is made after the harvest: in October, November - before frost, so that the decomposition process can go through the fall and winter. In the spring, after the snow has melted, already rotted manure, compost, and top fertile layer of soil are laid, this is done a month before planting vegetables.

Where to do

This technology is successfully used in northern regions with climatic conditions unfavorable for agriculture. Plants planted using this method are not afraid of temperature changes. Place the beds in any convenient place on the site, well lit by the sun. In the southern regions, this technology is ineffective; it is hot and sunny there in the summer and there is no need for additional heat.

What to make from

The convenience of the method lies in the fact that the layers are filled with any organic residues; the material does not need to be prepared or purchased. It can be:

1. For the first layer - wood debris, removed turf (it is laid grass side down), cardboard, newsprint, old clothes. Experienced gardeners do not recommend laying large trunks - ants may infest them.
2. For the second and third layers - vegetable tops, sawdust, straw, fallen leaves, humus, top fertile soil layer, food waste, weeds. There should be no seeds in the tops, and the root system of the weeds must be thoroughly crushed so that they do not grow.
3. Making boxes is possible from scrap materials. Wooden sides are popular, but they can also be made of brick, slate, or plastic panels. You can make concrete ones if the bed is set up permanently.
4. The bottom must be lined with a fine metal mesh to prevent mice, which love such structures, from getting in.
5. It is important to ensure that the layers being laid consist of healthy materials, without rot. For this reason, experts do not recommend filling layers with foliage from fruit trees - they are susceptible to diseases and insect attacks.

What to plant in a warm bed

This bed has been in operation for 4 years. The first year, while heat transfer and the amount of nutrition are maximum, plants that require heat and the amount of fertilizer are planted. In the following seasons - less demanding vegetables:

• first season - planting cucumbers, zucchini or pumpkins;
• in the second - cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage;
• third season – growing peppers, tomatoes, beets, carrots;
• fourth - unpretentious beans, peas or greens.

How to make warm beds

The disadvantages of this technology are frequent watering and labor costs during arrangement. However, the labor intensity is compensated by the availability of materials and ease of maintenance:

• no need for frequent weeding and loosening;
• no need to buy and apply fertilizers;
• in the fall, after harvesting, cleaning the garden is much easier;
• can be done anywhere on the site, even on the most infertile soil.

in autumn

Warm beds in the fall allow you to start planting in the spring almost a month earlier than in open ground. They differ from spring ones only in the amount of biomaterial:

1. Prepare the place, depending on the type (buried, high, etc.) - dig a trench or, after removing a layer of soil, fence it off with sides.
2. Lay out a drainage layer: compact branches and chopped trunks well and water them. Place a metal rodent mesh under the drainage.
3. Next, lay out layers of fine organic material, compacting each one and watering with warm water. The layer with fresh tops can be shed with a solution of potassium permanganate to prevent the development of rot. It is not recommended to use tomato and potato tops; solanine contained in nightshades prevents the decomposition process.
4. The top layer is removed soil mixed with manure.
5. Cover the top with straw or film so that the “burning” process begins. By spring, the layers will compact, leaving room for fertile soil.

in spring

If you didn’t take care of it in the fall, you can make warm beds in the spring with your own hands, the main thing is that they are ready for the start of planting work:

1. Do this as soon as the snow melts.
2. The principle of layer-by-layer laying is the same as that of autumn, with the exception of the top layer - instead of fresh manure, they take rotted manure or cover it with compost.
3. Mix compost with a layer of fertile soil and cover the top layer.
4. Pour warm water and cover with film. As the film dries, remove and water additionally.
5. You can plant early vegetables in a ready-made bed in early May.

In the greenhouse

You can make warm beds in a greenhouse with your own hands. This will allow you to plant seedlings in mid-April, without fear of freezing the seedlings:

1. In greenhouses, as a rule, combined ones are made; they do not require large areas. The optimal width and depth is 40 cm, length - as the size of the greenhouse allows.
2. The principle of laying layers is identical to the previous ones.
3. After filling all the layers, cover the top with film for 2-4 weeks. After this time, the film is removed, the soil is moistened, and as soon as the soil settles, holes can be made and seedlings can be planted.

Video

How to treat a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall so that the plants do not get sick and produce a good harvest? How to disinfect and fertilize the soil and prepare the greenhouse structure itself for wintering so that winter snowfalls and blizzards do not damage it?

These and some other questions will be answered in the presented article, which will describe the use of proven folk methods and modern advanced agricultural chemicals. As well as rules for caring for greenhouses made of different materials: polyethylene, cellular and cast polycarbonate, glass.

Cleaning and housekeeping

There is no exact time for the start of autumn processing of polycarbonate or film greenhouses. It all depends on the crops that were grown there and general weather conditions. But if the harvest time is over, and only tops remain in the greenhouse, then the time has come.

For more information about processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall and preparing the soil for the new season, watch the video:

Autumn cleaning

We completely clear the beds and paths of plant debris. Particular attention should be paid to the space between the sides of the beds and the frame material, as well as the underside of the paths if they consist of stones or other hard and flat materials. Usually under them you can find a whole zoo of pests: mole cricket larvae, beetleworms or wireworms. They need to be carefully collected in the fall, as they are not afraid of soil freezing and most pesticides.

Treatment of the greenhouse in the fall from pests and diseases, collection and destruction of mole cricket larvae (1), May beetle (2) or wireworm (3)

Cleaning the greenhouse material and preparing the frame for wintering

It is imperative to treat the polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall with copper sulfate; a 5% - 10% solution is applied to the wooden frame, disinfecting it. PVC structures can simply be washed using vinegar essence, soapy water or other non-aggressive household chemicals, the same applies to glass. How to wash a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall to obtain an additional disinfecting effect? It is advisable to treat glass surfaces and polycarbonate sheets with a mild solution of potassium permanganate. But it is strongly recommended to remove the film coating in the fall before wintering. It must also be cleaned, dried, carefully folded and stored until spring in a dry and frost-free place.

With a metal frame, if it is not made of aluminum or its alloys, it is somewhat more complicated. It is necessary to carefully inspect all supporting structures. If traces of corrosion are detected, the detected areas should be cleaned with a wire brush. Treat with a special primer that prevents further spreading of corrosion and increases adhesion and cover with paints and varnishes.

The greenhouse frame is strengthened in the center with several additional posts in the ridge area, where the greatest snow load will be concentrated in winter. Such maintenance of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall is not necessary, but it will help preserve the integrity of the greenhouse and significantly increase its service life.

In autumn, doors, vents and all ventilation vents are closed and secured with valves. All threads for hanging are cut off (they will still rot over the winter and begin to tear when used again), the supports for supporting the plants are removed from the ground and removed.

Cleaning the edges of the beds

Most greenhouse owners separate the beds from one another with various materials. If earlier these were bricks, asbestos sheets (slate) or wooden sides that rotted in 2 seasons, now these are special plastic sides of various designs that are resistant to mechanical stress, atmospheric conditions and high humidity.

Their important advantage is quick and easy dismantling. In the fall, they need to be pulled out all of them and washed in a potassium permanganate or vinegar solution. Re-installation is carried out in the spring.

Preparing the greenhouse for winter in the fall - dismantling and removing everything unnecessary

Soil preparation

The greenhouse creates ideal conditions not only for the growth of plants (including weeds), but also for various pests that can ruin the standing crop if they are not dealt with. Treatment of the greenhouse in the fall against pests and diseases should be comprehensive. The use of chemicals - various insecticides during the growing season is not a very good idea. The chemicals that accumulate in plants eventually enter our bodies. Therefore, special attention should be paid to disinfection and other soil treatment in the greenhouse in the fall.

Soil replacement

This is a rather labor-intensive and expensive process, but after it the number of pests is reduced by several orders of magnitude. It is recommended to carry out such a procedure as preparing the soil in a greenhouse in the fall, with a complete replacement of the fertile layer, at least once every three years. The soil is removed to a depth of 7-10 cm. Then peat, humus (manure), sand and ash are added in its place, the proportions vary depending on the presence of one or another ingredient, but rarely exceed 1 bucket per 1 m 2 of soil. Tilling the soil in a greenhouse in the fall may include fluffing, for heavy and oily soils, using sawdust. However, with this method you need to be careful and, if possible, not use sawdust from coniferous wood (spruce, pine, larch) and wood species with a large amount of tannins (oak, walnut).

The resulting mixture is dug up. Distribute evenly over planting areas and cover with a thick layer of straw or fallen leaves on top. After snow falls in winter, you need to throw some of it into the greenhouse yourself with a shovel (a layer of 15-20 cm) to prevent deep freezing of the soil and provide the ground with the necessary moisture in the spring. Some gardeners additionally water the enriched soil mixture with a weak solution of potassium permanganate before adding fertilizers.

Soil infected with pests and diseases does not need to be thrown away, but rather treated. How to treat the soil in a greenhouse in the fall in order to effectively disinfect it without resorting to strong chemicals. To do this, a pile is formed with an area of ​​1-2 m2 and a layer thickness of 20 cm. When constructing it, each layer is generously sprinkled with lime at the rate of 250 g per 1 m2. It remains in this state for the entire next year, having frozen out over the winter, the pile will need to be dug up again next fall and used after the second winter.

Soil fertilization

How to fertilize the soil in a greenhouse in the fall depends not only on the type of soil, but also what crops are planned to be planted in the spring. To achieve the highest yield, not only special means are used, but also special methods for processing perennial plants:

1. Strawberry. After the last harvest, at the end of August, all the greens are mowed down so that the top buds remain intact. The bed is watered abundantly and the soil is loosened. Potash and superphosphate fertilizers are applied in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. All this is sprinkled with a small layer of fertile soil so that the new shoots do not dry out. Before the onset of cold weather, no later than October, the strawberry roots are earthed up and covered with peat. In winter, be sure to pretend to be a thick layer of snow to prevent freezing.
2. Tomatoes. One of the most common greenhouse crops. They are very demanding on the quality of the soil and the composition of fertilizers. For tomatoes, soil preparation in a greenhouse in the fall consists of applying organic, chemical or combined fertilizers, which must necessarily contain:

• Manganese – promotes faster ripening of fruits;
• Copper, boron – stimulate flowering and abundant fruiting;
• Potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, nitrogen - contribute to the rapid growth of the plant.

1. Cucumbers. The most common “resident” of greenhouses. There are many varieties designed for growing in greenhouses. However, processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall to plant cucumbers in it has its own specifics. First of all, you need to check the acidity of the soil. If the acidity is more than 6.5-7 pH in the fall, it is necessary to lim the soil. Also in the fall, the soil is fertilized with the following specialized mixture:

• Potassium salt – 10-25 g;
• Ammonium sulfate – 10-25g;
• Ammonium nitrate up to 25 g.

Determination of soil acidity using 9% vinegar, reaction to neutral soil

Disinfection

There are several ways to disinfect a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall:

• Fumigation;
• Spraying with pesticides;
• Sprinkling with bleach.

Before you start disinfecting a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall, you need to take care of personal protective equipment. The following are required:

• sealed glasses;
• latex gloves;
• respirator;
• thick clothing (preferably work overalls).

Fumigation

How to disinfect a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall using sulfur fumigation? For this, special sulfur bombs can be used or you can prepare the composition yourself. To do this, you need feed sulfur mixed with kerosene to the consistency of thick sour cream. Dose 50 grams of mixture per 1m3 of greenhouse. The effectiveness and required number of checkers are indicated directly on them.

Fumigation of a greenhouse with special bombs

Fumigators are spaced evenly throughout the greenhouse. All surfaces are shelving, the walls and ceiling are sprayed with water. After the mixture is set on fire and smoke begins to actively emit, you need to quickly seal the greenhouse by sealing with tape all the cracks where the smoke is coming from. Processing time is 4-5 hours for checkers and 2-3 days for homemade mixture.

Watch the video about disinfecting a greenhouse in the fall:

Spraying

How to wash a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall so that the structure is not only clean, but also disinfected? The easiest way is to use a 0.75% solution of copper sulfate 75 g per 10 liters of water; the resulting composition is enough to treat 10 m2 of land. Chloride of lime is prepared at the rate of 400 g. for 1 bucket of water (4% solution). The mixture should be allowed to brew for 4 hours. The solution is applied in the fall as follows. By lightly mixing the contents of the bucket, the upper third can be used to disinfect the soil, and the lower third, the most concentrated third, can be used to treat greenhouse parts.

To effectively combat spider mites, treat the soil in a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall with a 10-15% solution of bleach.

To get rid of cabbage clubroot, use 40% carbation. 0.5 kg of this substance is diluted in 10 liters of water and simply watered the ground immediately after digging.

How to treat a greenhouse in the fall against blackleg and root-knot nematodes and aphids? Can be eliminated with karbofos. 90 grams are diluted in 10 liters of water, the resulting composition is used to treat 1 m 3 of soil. After watering, the surface is dug up so that the area treated with karbofos is at the bottom.

Treatment of polycarbonate greenhouses in the fall against late blight and late blight is carried out with specialized biological preparations based on Bacillus subtilis: phytophtorin, phytosporion-M, alirin, gamair, baksis.

Dusting (sprinkling)

Sprinkling with chlorinated lime powder is the cheapest and simplest, but nevertheless quite effective way to combat late blight, fusarium and other fungal plant diseases. It is produced on undug soil, consumption up to 50 g per 1 m 2. After processing, the beds are dug up.

Traditional methods of pest control

• Tinctures of garlic, tobacco and mustard;
• Extracts from pine needles or pine cones;
• Ash solutions.

The effectiveness of such drugs is rather doubtful and is rather psychological in nature. Although their use may somewhat reduce the activity of pests, complete elimination is out of the question. The only advantage of these compositions is their environmental friendliness.

Winter crops in autumn

Despite intensive preparations for winter, in the fall you can also take care of the future harvest. You can set aside a small corner in the greenhouse for planting sorrel or wild garlic. This place should be insulated with leaves or spruce branches more thoroughly, and after the first snow falls, throw a small snowdrift up to 1 m high on the bed. Already in early March, when the snow melts in the greenhouse, you will be able to see the first shoots, and harvest in April.

Planting winter crops in autumn

Greenhouse care in winter

For the winter, only polycarbonate or glass frames remain non-removable. Particular attention must be paid to the latter, since glass is a more fragile material that may not withstand snow pressure. During heavy snowfalls, it is necessary to clean the greenhouse roof. Polycarbonate structures, as a rule, have an arched - semicircular shape. so the snow just slides down it. The exception is temporary thaws in the middle of winter. In this case, it is necessary to clean off the formed ice. To strengthen the frame, internal supports are used, which are installed in the fall.

Strengthening the frame with supports

Results

Preparing a greenhouse for winter in the fall requires a lot of work. But following most of the recommendations together guarantees a rich harvest and a significant extension of the life of the building.

One of the most important factors affecting the quality of the cucumber harvest is the soil. This factor includes its acidity, friability, and humidity. Moreover, it should be remembered that different crops require different soil. In the spring, during the planting and sowing period, there is already enough to do, so why not make your task easier by preparing the greenhouses in the fall? This event will have another advantage - during the winter, some pests and bacteria that can damage your plants will die in the soil. Preparation takes place in several stages and includes a number of specific actions that the vegetable grower needs to know about.

Greenhouse preparation

You don't need to know all the rules to get high fees. It is necessary to take care of the cleanliness of the greenhouse, since it is this factor that will provide plantings with protection from pests and diseases. It is necessary to carry out disinfection and cleaning in the fall in order to prevent harmful organisms from developing and multiplying, and also to prevent bacteria from entering the spore phase (in this form, protozoa survive an unfavorable time and acquire maximum resistance to any external influence). Disinfection of greenhouses, greenhouses and soil should begin immediately after harvesting.

Read about greenhouses for cucumbers.

The room should be well lit and heated

Remove debris, plant debris (tops, shoots, roots) and other foreign objects from the beds immediately. It is better to burn everything to avoid the spread of infections. Under no circumstances leave any parts of last year’s crops!

Disinfection

After cleaning the greenhouse, it is necessary to begin disinfection. It is necessary to treat both the soil and all glass, metal and wooden parts of the building. The soil is impregnated with a weak solution of copper sulfate to a depth of no more than 5-7 cm. Treat the greenhouse structure with a well-infused solution of bleach (300 grams per 10 liters of water, let stand for 4-5 hours). Use the precipitate that forms in the solution for wooden parts and especially for the cracks between the boards. Spray the glass and crossbars with chlorine-lime liquid.

Dry processing: how to do it

We move on to this stage immediately after disinfection. First of all, let the greenhouse dry out; do not add new soil and fertilizers until the boards are thoroughly dry. Also, the most useful thing would be to treat the room with a sulfur smoke bomb: you need to set it on fire and leave it in a closed greenhouse for a few minutes (or until it burns completely, this is at your discretion). After the procedure, ventilate the building. It is advisable to remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 6 cm.

Disinfection is carried out with a sulfur smoke bomb. The price is 65 rubles. per pack.

When using chemicals, do not forget about personal protective equipment. Be sure to carry out the procedure wearing rubber gloves and a mask. Do not stay in an unventilated greenhouse for more than 10 minutes after treatment.

Preparing cucumbers for planting in the fall

Soil requirements

The root system of cucumbers is very weak - one main root, tender and fragile. Therefore, the fruits require loose loamy soil, in which it will be easy for it to gain a foothold. An equally important indicator is acidity. . The soil should be neutral or, at least, slightly acidic with a pH value of no more than 7 units. Because they are thermophilic, cucumbers take root well in multi-tiered beds containing several types of organic fertilizers (organic matter rots and warms the roots). It is also necessary to maintain the mineral composition, which includes nitrogen, potassium and magnesium.

Read about preparing a greenhouse in the fall for tomatoes.

The looseness of the soil can be adjusted using regular sand. Otherwise, you can arrange a drainage system from coarse gravel and coarse organic waste (branches, twigs, but do not use sawdust and root shoots).

Predecessors

In some cases, other vegetable crops can partially prepare the soil for you. If you alternate different vegetables correctly and do not plant the same plants for more than 2-3 years in a row. Compliance with crop rotation ensures the preservation of soil structure and also prevents the transmission of diseases such as late blight. Cucumbers cannot be planted after similar plants, such as zucchini, melons (watermelons, melons), and pumpkins. Planting after nightshades is also unfavorable, especially after it has been done. They will grow well after early ripening white cabbage, root vegetables or peppers.

Soil preparation before planting crop rotation

The most favorable predecessors for any crop, including cucumbers, are legumes (peas or beans). These plants will provide the earth with nitrogen. You can sow it together with the main species, but in this case, do not allow the beans to overwhelm other vegetables.

DIY soil fertilizers

Despite the significant amount of fertilizer applied, do not forget about fertilizing. If your beds are based on a manure-compost bed, then the fertilizer should be mineral. In the first months of summer, alternate watering with potassium nitrate and wood ash tinctures.

Liming

Preparing cucumber beds

Cucumbers are a semi-melon crop, so both in the greenhouse and in the open ground they need raised, high beds. It is better to form them in the fall, so that the constructed embankments can form their own microclimate and their own chemo-bio-environment. Remember that the top layer of soil should be well mixed and loose. Try to lay the beds so that organic additives (especially manure) do not lie in the open air; cover them thoroughly with soil. Under the ceiling of the greenhouse, pre-stretch the wire to which you will tie the cucumber vines.

Video

conclusions

Harvesting a cucumber harvest is far from the end of a gardener’s worries. Autumn preparation of the soil with your own hands and greenhouses for the subsequent planting of cucumbers (and this is a demanding crop, you will have to prepare and do a lot of things) will not only provide the right conditions for growing them, but will also free you up a couple of days in the spring. Seedlings and seeds can be sown in pre-formed beds much earlier. Therefore, this will allow you to receive the first fruits at the beginning of summer.

Read how to properly water tomatoes in a greenhouse.

Sergey Nikolaevich Rumyantsev is a gardener with more than 30 years of experience. Several years ago, he began to think seriously about how to improve the design of the greenhouse in order to obtain higher yields. A greenhouse of a classic configuration, according to Sergei Nikolaevich, is often not only useless, but also harmful to plants.

“In fact, plants need more than just warmth. By and large, it is necessary only in early spring, when frosts occur, and, of course, in autumn, when it is already cold. And in summer there is too much heat! The greenhouse becomes a real crematorium for plants. If the temperature outside is +30 C°, then in the greenhouse it will be 20 degrees higher, that is, +50 C°. Because of this, the pollen is sterilized, the plant does not set and does not bear fruit. At this point we simply lose the harvest.”

According to Sergei Rumyantsev, even if all the doors are opened, it is impossible to effectively ventilate a conventional greenhouse, which is why the plants begin to actively lose water. The shortcomings do not end there: when one winter the greenhouse on the gardener’s property collapsed under the weight of snow, an engineer by profession, Sergei Rumyantsev and his friend took on the design of the so-called “smart greenhouse.”

Making a “smart greenhouse”

They decided to make the frame of the greenhouse from a steel profile pipe 25 mm by 25 mm, with a cross-sectional area of ​​two millimeters - this ensures strength. According to Sergei Rumyantsev, such a design can support the weight of three adults. Special braces on the straight walls of the greenhouse give it additional rigidity and resistance to wind.

In order to tie up tomatoes and other plants, hanging trellises are located above the beds in the greenhouse. And of course, the most important thing is the ventilation system, which runs along the entire length of the structure. The total area of ​​the vents is about ¼ of the area of ​​the entire greenhouse, according to the calculations of Sergei Rumyantsev, it is this ratio that allows for effective ventilation and does not allow the heat to stagnate. At the same time, you can open the windows both manually and automatically. After all, if the greenhouse overheats for just half an hour in the summer, you can lose the harvest.

According to Sergei Rumyantsev, it is good to use the “warm bed” technology in tandem with a smart greenhouse.

We organize a “warm bed” in the greenhouse

A “warm bed” is a bed that, when organic matter decomposes, releases heat, which allows seedlings to be planted in the greenhouse a month earlier in the spring.

“Usually summer residents plant tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers on May 20. Thanks to the warm bed, I do this on April 15-17. Also, a warm bed extends the harvest time in the fall - until the end of October, depending on the weather. We will talk about a simplified warm bed that allows you to work less. This is an important criterion for me, since I am a “Sunday” summer resident.”

The height of the warm bed is 50 cm. It is made from leaves, grass, logs, which are laid in layers and treated with microbiological complex preparations.

Let's consider the stages of creating a warm bed:

• Logs. A place is cleared for a warm bed. The first layer, which will be 25 cm in height, half of the entire bed, is filled with thick logs from deciduous trees. The top of this layer is laid from smaller branches and foliage, compacted and compacted. The layer of relatively “long-lasting” organic matter, which will decompose within 2 to 3 years, is ready.
• Green layer. Now we need to make sure that the upper part decomposes quickly, otherwise the warm bed will provide little heat and take a long time to process, so chopped grass is added on top. “But the green layer should be very small, 10 times smaller than the brown one,” notes Sergei Rumyantsev, “When microorganisms decompose it, there will be a lot of nitrogen. Because of this, the plant will begin to “fatten,” that is, all the growth goes into the tops.”
• Brown layer. The next layer is highly crushed leaves and branches; this mixture is well suited not only for a warm garden bed, but also for mulching the same roses before frost. Next, a layer of dry fallen leaves is laid. Approximately one cm of soil is poured on top of the leaves. It turned out to be a little more than half the height of the future bed.
• The time has come to introduce microorganisms that quickly process this material enzymatically (without rotting). Sergey Rumyantsev advises using Vostok M-1, a Japanese drug in the Russian version, and/or the Russian drug Siyanie-3. The first has a greater potential for suppressing pathogens and is suitable, among other things, for spraying a greenhouse, the second is more affordable. It is necessary to process two layers with an interval of 25 cm - when the bed is already half filled and at the very end. The drugs are used both individually and together. That is, you can treat each layer with different preparations, or you can treat both with one. Some of these drugs are “Siyania-3” and “Vostok M-1”. Half a glass of “Siyanie-3” is required per square meter, and “Vostok M-1” is diluted with water in a concentration of 10 tablespoons per 10-liter bucket of water, while 2 to 5 liters will be needed per square meter. After processing, new layers continue to be laid on the bed.
• Next, the bed is filled to the top with mown grass, weeds, and leaves. The ratio of green and brown components is maintained - 1 to 10 (1:10). When the bed is filled to a height of approximately 50 cm, you can throw a layer of soil on top of no more than 10 cm. If the organic matter is very dry, watering is required.
• We're done laying down the layers. On top you need to repeat the treatment with “Vostok M-1” or “Shine-3”.

The warm bed is ready. According to Sergei Rumyantsev, the first seedlings can be planted here in mid-April.

The material was prepared by Elena Volozhanina and Ilya Tataurov.

Growing vegetables in a greenhouse requires a special approach, since crops grow there in a limited space. This leads to soil depletion, so it is important to add nutrients to greenhouse beds annually. Otherwise, it will no longer be possible to get a good harvest from the greenhouse. No less important is fertilizing the soil in the greenhouse in the fall, when preparing it for wintering.

However, before you start fertilizing, you need to treat it to destroy various fungi and infections.

Preventive measures in the greenhouse

First of all, you should collect all plant debris from the beds, take them out and burn them, and wash the structure itself thoroughly. The same applies to garden tools (rakes, hoes, shovels); they also need to be taken out, cleaned of soil and washed with laundry soap.

When the greenhouse is cleaned, it is necessary to disinfect the beds themselves. To do this, you can use one of the following methods:

1. Pour boiling water over the soil and cover them with a thick film for a day. Repeat the procedure two more times. All three treatments should be done within one week.
2. Sprinkle bleach (100 g per 1 sq.m.), pour in a solution of potassium permanganate and dig up.
3. Add Fitosporin or Trichodermin to the soil. Plant (mustard grows the fastest).

Preparatory work in the greenhouse must begin before the air temperature drops below 10 degrees Celsius.

Autumn feeding of greenhouse beds

After preventive measures, it’s time to directly fertilize the soil in the greenhouse:

• scatter wood ash over the beds (at least 50 g per square, with increased soil acidity up to 200 g);
• spill the soil with a solution based on superphosphate (20 g per bucket of water);
• sprinkle potassium sulfate at the rate of 15 g of granules per square;
• spread rotted compost, manure or bird droppings over the beds;
• dig up.

Instead of individual mineral components, complex preparations, for example, nitrophoska, can be used in the greenhouse in the fall. In dry form, it is applied at 50 g per square; to prepare a solution, which is then used to spill the beds, you need to take half as much per 10 liters of water.

Cleaning and fertilizing greenhouse beds before winter - video