Manufacturers offer a wide selection of plumbing fixtures. Each model has its own and imposes certain requirements for the installation procedure. Installing a toilet yourself is possible, but only if you follow the manufacturer's recommendations. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the existing types, procedure and features of the work, so that independent installation is carried out in accordance with regulatory requirements.
In order to correctly place the key ones, you should prepare a drawing to scale on which the plumbing fixtures will be located taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards. You can create a comfortable layout by adhering to the following recommendations:
The recommendations given are relevant for those for whom it is enough to adhere to standard standards, principles of practicality and comfort. In apartment buildings, the placement of plumbing fixtures is regulated by SNiP, which are developed taking into account the safe operation of communications. When planning to do the installation yourself, you should definitely familiarize yourself with these standards.
When choosing a suitable model, you should take into account the features. Noteworthy:
Manufacturers offer plumbing fixtures of various configurations, each with its own mounting characteristics. The division can be made into floor-mounted and wall-mounted models. The latter require less space to install and have a more attractive appearance. This is a suitable option for. Floor-standing models are more reliable and practical.
It is also worth preparing:
When dismantling, you should follow the instructions in accordance with which the installation of once new plumbing was previously carried out. Do-it-yourself toilet replacement begins with the following work:
Advice! After dismantling, the hole in the sewer pipe should be closed with a fabric plug to prevent it from clogging.
Having decided to do the installation yourself, you should figure out how to assemble the toilet. Any model includes two components: a bowl and a drain tank. At the preparation stage, these parts should be connected to each other using the fasteners included in the delivery kit.
First, assemble the drain tank. To do this, a drain mechanism and a float are installed. As a rule, installing the drain mechanism is not difficult, since it is initially supplied assembled. It is inserted into a special mounting hole at the bottom and secured with a plastic nut, onto which a rubber seal is carefully placed. The tank is secured to the toilet using metal pins and nuts.
Attention! Rubber seals should be used at all connections.
A video of assembling a toilet with your own hands will allow you to better understand the sequence of work:
After the plumbing has been assembled, it is worth clarifying how to install the toilet with your own hands. The work can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | We mark and drill mounting holes in the floor. |
 | We remove the accumulated dirt and dust. |
 | We hammer plastic dowels into the prepared holes. |
 | We install the toilet at the place of future use and fix its spatial position with bolts. |
If you haven’t yet figured out how to do the installation yourself, a toilet installation video will help you learn all the main steps:
Models with hidden tanks allow you to use the available space more rationally. They are easy to care for and look stylish. Installation of a built-in toilet can be done in different ways. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the available methods and features of performing the work.
First, you need to decide on the model of plumbing fixtures. Its geometric parameters will affect the requirements for the mounted system. Installation of the pendant can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | The height of the frame structure is adjustable. |
 | Installation of the toilet installation in a metal profile 50 mm wide and screwing it to the floor through special mounting holes. |
 | A frame system is installed to which it will be attached. |
 | Finishing material is attached. |
 | Silicone sealant is applied to the seat. |
 | The fittings included in the delivery kit are inserted into the mounting holes. |
 | The toilet is hung and fixed using the fasteners included in the delivery kit. |
 | The water connection is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. |
Related article:
If you know the current level, it will be easier to check the value of different sales offers. The information from this article will be useful when performing installation operations with your own hands and for monitoring the actions of professional teams. In particular, they will help to correctly negotiate when determining the cost of performers’ services.
Instead of a wall-mounted model, you can install a floor-standing model with a hidden tank. A large assortment allows you to choose the right option for a toilet in any style.
The technology in this case includes the following steps:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | A niche is being prepared in which the tank will be installed. |
 | Do-it-yourself toilet installation inside a niche and fixing it. |
 | The final finishing of the wall is carried out, and the plumbing is installed in the designated place. |
Fastening to the floor can be done in different ways:
Advice! To prevent the toilet from cracking during installation, gaskets should be used during installation.
Depending on the design features of a particular model, you can install a toilet yourself using:
Various adapters are used to connect the system to the sewer. Each type has its own distinctive characteristics. We suggest you familiarize yourself with the main varieties in order to have an idea of the possible options.
If you decide to use an adapter, you need to know exactly the characteristics of the model that you plan to install yourself. When choosing a suitable option, special attention should be paid to the shape of the toilet bowl.
Products with an oblique outlet are mounted in the floor, with a vertical outlet - in the wall, placing the pipe at a right angle. With an oblique outlet, it is permissible to install a “wall”, placing the connecting pipe at an acute angle. When replacing plumbing fixtures, you should purchase a model with a similar release, otherwise the use of adapters becomes impossible.
Attention! When using a plastic outlet or fan pipe, changing the geometric shape of the product is unacceptable.
When using an eccentric collar, according to experts, it is not necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection using sealant. With the correct placement of special rubber seals, you can achieve a reliable and tight fit of the mating elements. If the pipes are cast from cast iron, it is still worth using a sealant.
Corrugated pipe (corrugation) is used when other materials cannot cope with the task. How to install corrugation on a toilet? After fixing the system, work is performed in the following sequence:
Connecting the bathroom to the sewer is done in three ways. Each of them has its own characteristics. We suggest you find out how you can connect a toilet to a sewer and choose the most suitable option.
Models with vertical release are especially popular in European countries. The design of such plumbing products involves the presence of a siphon located in the bowl and an outlet pipe, which is directed downward during installation. This design is universal, and toilets with vertical outlet can be installed at any angle to the vertical.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation is carried out in the following sequence:
These products are sometimes called direct flush toilets. It is most widespread in Russia. Such products have a rearward outlet. It is connected to the sewer pipe using a special cuff.
Models with a horizontal outlet are most often attached to the floor. The manufacturer provides special connection holes that allow you to attach the toilet to the floor. Dowels or standard screws are most often used as fasteners.
Advice! Fasteners should be tightened carefully so as not to damage the product.
A toilet with an oblique outlet can be connected as follows:
This method is currently used quite rarely, since dismantling the equipment is quite difficult. Most often, preference is given to standard anchor screws. However, some cement paste can be placed under the sole of the toilet to compensate for any unevenness.
In some cases, silicone sealant can be used instead of cement paste. However, under significant or uneven load, the sole of the product may crack.
Then, using a sealing coupling, the outlet is connected to the cast iron socket without displacement. It can be used to compensate for existing horizontal or vertical displacement. To ensure maximum tightness, silicone sealant is pre-applied to the outer surface of the coupling.
To ensure the supply of tap water to the drain tank, you can use one of the following methods:
Connections for all types of hoses are performed in the following sequence:
If you want to know the price for the work, installing a toilet can be done for a different amount. On average, such services will cost:
We hope you liked the article. Knowing how to properly install a toilet, you can do the entire amount of work yourself. Share in the comments how you solved this problem yourself. If you have any questions, ask. We will definitely answer.
Finally, we suggest watching a video on how to install a toilet correctly step by step.
Most compatriots, in particular skilled craftsmen, often independently take on the task of repairing a house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they approach the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief in their own abilities. And although often for installing a toilet, for example, you have to pay mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet with your own hands is a very simple task!
Of course, it wouldn’t hurt for you to become familiar with a number of specific nuances associated with the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can figure them out without any problems. In fact, it turns out that installation, direct installation and connection to the general sewerage system of all types of bathrooms are practically no different from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional functions, coupled with the installation of an automated system.
Different systems consist of similar elements
Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. There should not be any difficulties during the installation of the drain and fill system. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to regulate the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.
Check the complete set of the drain tank
Application deserves special attention. This solution is very convenient to use. We will talk about installation in detail in a separate review.
Let's look at the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new residents, that is, our instructions do not imply dismantling the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.
So, to install the newly purchased toilet yourself, you need to do the following:
This is all! Self-installation of the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: you must allow the silicone to harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, don’t skimp on the sealant! There is never too much of it in installation work. But be sure to make sure that the silicone does not end up inside the pipe.
Note: To install a bathroom and its cistern yourself, you do not need professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable types.
Bathroom with vertical outlet
This model is especially popular in European countries. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downwards when installed. This universal design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.
For installation you only need to perform a few steps:
- Make floor markings and install a regular screw flange with a locking device;
- Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;
- Mount the toilet on the flange and securely fix the outlet pipe.
Bathroom with horizontal outlet
Or in another way with direct release “into the wall”. Most common in Russia. The outlet of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet pipe in this design is connected to the sewer pipe using a specific cuff.
In the installation procedure, pay attention to the attachment of the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet are usually equipped with specific holes designed for fixing plumbing fixtures specifically to the floor surface.
Advice: You should begin connecting a bathroom with direct outlet during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Fasten the structure with great care, since excessively strong and sharp screw “pulling” is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.
Toilet with oblique outlet
Let's look at the main installation points:
Specifics of connection without corrugation
We have already discussed connecting the bathroom to the general sewerage system using corrugated pipes in step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet without using corrugation, and won’t this process be more complicated? Such a connection is, of course, possible, but it is unlikely to raise any questions for you.
If you are finally convinced that the corrugation is unnecessary, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:
Mandatory use of a drain pipe. Taking into account the angle of the toilet, connecting the adapter is carried out using different methods:
bathroom with oblique outlet– installation is carried out in the floor: in modern apartments you will no longer see such a connection, but once upon a time it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet– installation is carried out strictly at right angles to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet– the installation angle is equivalent to 40º, installation is carried out in the wall.- If the outlet of the bathroom does not suit the outlet of the sewage system, it is necessary to either purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible adapter pipes.
Thus, installing a toilet with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics of the plumbing installation. This will cost you much less than calling professionals to your home.
In the next article we will tell.
In modern private houses, bathrooms are equipped no worse than in city apartments. The availability of technology and plumbing equipment makes it possible to install a bathtub, sink and toilet even without special skills. But this does not mean that everything is so simple: in order for the plumbing fixtures to serve for a long time and reliably, it is necessary to choose the right model and become thoroughly familiar with all the nuances of installation. This is especially true for the toilet, the mounting of which has certain differences, depending on the type of subfloor. Let's look at how to install a toilet in a private house on a wooden floor so that there are no problems with it during operation.
The toilet should be convenient and reliable to use, so you can’t buy the first model that catches your eye. It is necessary to take into account the size of the plumbing fixture, the volume of the tank, the type of fittings used for flushing, and the shape of the drain pipe. First of all, you need to decide on the type of toilet: they are all divided into classic floor-standing models and wall-mounted ones.
A floor-mounted toilet is easier to install and maintain, since access to the cistern and communications remains open. In case of repair or replacement, it will not take much time, and neither the floor nor the walls will have to be restored later.
As for wall-hung toilets, they look much more attractive than floor-mounted ones, and they take up a little less space. Particularly in demand are models with installation, which allow you to completely hide the tank with all the pipes in the wall. But installing such toilets requires more skill and experience, and besides, hidden installation limits access to the pipes. If something breaks, you will have to disassemble and then repair part of the wall, which entails additional costs. So it’s better to opt for the classic version.
Floor-standing toilets may differ in the shape of the drain pipe. The choice is determined by the location of the sewer pipe, and an incorrectly selected model can significantly complicate the installation process.
Toilet release Description
The toilet pipe is located perpendicular to the floor. Connects to a drain pipe embedded in the floor under the toilet. This shape allows you to install the plumbing fixture close to the wall and make more efficient use of the free space.
The outlet is located parallel to the base. The connection is made to a vertical sewer riser using a cuff or corrugation
The pipe comes out at an angle to the base. The connection is made to the drain pipe running along the bottom of the wall. This option is considered the most popular The next criterion is flush fittings. Most modern models have built-in push-button mechanisms for drain devices, which are divided into two types:
- single-mode flush - a mechanism with one button, when pressed, all the water from the tank is flushed into the toilet;
- dual-mode flush - the mechanism has two buttons, one of which is responsible for flushing the full volume, and the second only half of the tank.
There are also drain fitting options equipped with a stop function. Such mechanisms have one button, the first press of which starts water, the second stops the flow. This allows you to significantly reduce water consumption, which is important if a large family lives in the house.
Prices for the Roka toilet range
toilets of rock
Methods for installing a floor-standing toilet
The installation of plumbing must strictly comply with building rules and regulations, regardless of whether the installation is carried out in an apartment or in a private house. But this does not mean that it is necessary to hire specialists for such work: with careful adherence to technology, any home craftsman can cope with this. There are several ways to mount a floor-mounted toilet, and the determining factor for the choice is the type of subfloor.
Dowel mounting
This method is considered the most practical and requires a minimum of labor and time to complete. It is used for strong, dense bases with the most smooth and even surface possible - concrete floors, tiles, porcelain stoneware. Fixation is carried out with long dowels or special plumbing fasteners included in the toilet kit.
It is recommended to lay a rubber or other soft material between the floor and the toilet foot to ensure a tighter and more reliable fit. If the toilet needs to be raised, the base is made from a piece of thick solid board, and the mounting holes are drilled directly through the wood.
When fixing the toilet to the floor, do not overtighten the fasteners so as not to damage the ceramics. The fastening should also not be weak, as this leads to loosening of the plumbing.
In some cases, this installation method can also be used for wooden floors. The main condition: the floor boards must be strong, at least 30 mm thick, tightly packed together. Long screws are used instead of dowels.
Glue installation
The method is simple, but takes a lot of time. The toilet is attached with epoxy glue, which takes an average of 12-15 hours to harden. During this time, you cannot use the plumbing fixture so as not to damage the integrity of the connection. The floor base should be strong and smooth; the ideal option is a tiled floor.
Before installation, both surfaces are cleaned of dust and degreased; it is additionally recommended to treat the tiles with abrasive to improve adhesion. You can buy ready-made glue or make it yourself: for 10 parts of epoxy resin you need 20 parts of cement, 2 parts of solvent and 3.5 parts of hardener.
Advice. When preparing an adhesive mixture, the sequence of introducing the components is of great importance: first, a solvent is added to the resin, heated to 50 degrees, stirred, a hardener is poured in, stirred again until smooth, and cement is added last. The finished glue should have a uniform texture and be plastic.
The adhesive composition is applied to the base of the toilet in a layer of 4 mm, after which the device is installed in the prepared place and pressed to the floor. Until the glue has completely dried, you cannot touch the toilet, so connection to communications is made only after 12 hours, not earlier.
Epoxy glue prices
epoxy adhesive
Installation on taffeta
This installation method is considered traditional for wooden floors. Taffeta is a backing made from a piece of solid hardwood, cut to the shape of a toilet bowl and treated with an antiseptic, drying oil or waste oil. Such backings are commercially available, so if you don’t have suitable wood at home, you can buy factory-made taffeta. Its thickness is 40-50 mm, which eliminates any deflections and deformations of the base under the weight of the toilet and a person. The toilet itself is attached to the taffeta using screws or the screws included in the kit.
Wood underlayment can be attached to the floorboards with screws or recessed flush with the floor covering. The second option looks neater, but the installation process is more labor-intensive and time-consuming. In addition, if it is possible to cut a hole in the floor, it is better to simply fill the hole with mortar and make a concrete base for the toilet.
The floor is concreted, after the solution has dried, a toilet is installed for fitting
Installing a toilet on a wooden floor with your own hands
The installation process consists of two stages - directly installing the device and connecting it to communications. But before that, you should prepare everything correctly and carefully plan the work process.
Preparation for installation
First you need to clean the floor from dust and debris and carefully check the condition of the boards. There should be no cracks in the floor, unevenness, swelling, or rotten areas under the toilet.
If the board covering is strong, but has already lost its appearance, you can restore its attractiveness using a scraping machine and protective and decorative treatment with oil or wood varnish.
Boards with cracks, mold stains or rot must be replaced, because under increased load the floor in these areas may fail. You should also eliminate squeaks and wobbly floorboards to avoid further loosening of the toilet.
If the pipes have not yet been installed, you need to determine the optimal location of the toilet in the room and this is best done using the plumbing fixture itself. To do this, you do not need to assemble it, just place the toilet body at the intended location and see how convenient this location is. Having decided, mark the outlet of the drain hole and supply water to the tank. Then the toilet is cleaned and communication terminals are prepared.
When the preparatory stage is completed, you can begin the main process - installing the toilet on the floor. As an example, consider the method of attaching a toilet with a horizontal outlet with screws to the floor boards.
Toilet installation
To work you will need:
- building level;
- pencil;
- silicone sealant;
- flexible liner;
- plumbing adjustable wrench;
- drill and screwdriver;
- screwdriver.
Step 1. Unpack all the elements of the toilet, lay them out on the floor and check the contents. If mounting screws are not included in the kit, you need to purchase 6x80 mm screws separately.
Step 2. Following the manufacturer's instructions, assemble the toilet. They start with the tank: after removing the lid, insert the flush fittings, put a plastic nut on the pipe and tighten it, thread the mounting screws through the holes in the bottom. Next, place a rubber gasket at the junction of the tank and the toilet bowl and lower the tank so that the screws go into the holes intended for them.
Advice. The screws should not be tightened all the way to avoid cracks in the ceramic. Also, all fasteners must be used with rubber or silicone gaskets.
Step 3. A silicone cuff is placed on the socket of the drain pipe, and to ensure a reliable connection, sealant must be applied along the edge. The flexible line is screwed to the water pipe.
Step 4. Place the toilet in the chosen place, check whether the bowl outlet coincides with the drain pipe. A level is placed on top of the tank and then on the bowl to ensure that the toilet is not tilted.
Step 5. Using a pencil, mark drilling points for fasteners through the holes in the rear wall of the tank. They also outline the base of the toilet on the floor and mark the fixation points on both sides with dashes. Place the toilet aside, then step back 40 mm from the marked lines inside the contour and place marks under the mounting holes. Both marks must be located strictly on the same line.
Step 6. Holes with a diameter of 4 mm are drilled into the floor, which will avoid cracking of the boards when screwing in the screws. The size of the holes in the wall must correspond to the size of the dowels.
Step 7 Clean the surface from dust and apply sealant along the contour of the floor in a continuous strip.
Advice. Try not to go beyond the contour, otherwise the sealant will be squeezed out under the weight of the toilet and the fixation will be weaker.
Step 8 Carefully install the toilet according to the markings, insert the outlet into the cuff, and again check the horizontal level. If the structure is positioned correctly, insert dowels and screw the tank to the wall. Screws or screws are then inserted into the holes in the bowl leg and carefully tightened. The fasteners are covered with decorative plugs on top.
Step 9 Screw the lid to the toilet and complete the installation by applying sealant along the line where the toilet joins the floor. The sealant is applied in a continuous strip, after which it is smoothed with a damp sponge and the excess is wiped off.
Installation on taffeta without embedding into the floor is carried out using the same technology, only the process of manufacturing and attaching the substrate is added. To do this, take a piece of a wide, flat oak board or a piece of thick plywood, place the toilet on it, and trace it with a pencil. Next, use a jigsaw to cut the workpiece along the contour, clean the edges and impregnate all sides with drying oil, waste oil or a special antiseptic composition for wood. When the taffeta has dried, it is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, and the toilet is installed on top in the manner described above.
Connecting communications
After installation, the final stage remains - connecting to the water supply and drainage:
- Sealant is applied to the toilet outlet and the pipe is connected with a sealing collar to the sewer pipe. If the outlet slightly does not coincide with the hole of the drain pipe, a corrugation is used instead of a cuff;
- connect the water supply using a flexible hose;
- turn on the flush and check the operation of the system and the tightness of the connections. If leaks are observed, it is worth tightening the nuts a little tighter;
- by moving the float higher or lower, the level of filling the tank with water is adjusted.
Connect the water supply and sewer outlet
To make sure that the toilet is working properly, you need to fill the tank several times and turn on the flush. During operation, you should periodically check the reliability of the connections, since due to leaks the wood will not last long. If water flows under the base of the toilet, over time the floor will rot and collapse, especially if the installation was carried out not on taffeta, but directly on a wooden floor.
Video - How to install a toilet in a private house on a wooden floor
In 1884, the UNITAS sanitary product received first prize at the International Exhibition in London. Since then, it is difficult to imagine an apartment, house or public place without this device.
Anyone can install it themselves if they wish. To install a toilet in a private country house, you need to understand how the product and sewage system work, and fully follow the work instructions.
Design elements
Despite the wide variety of modern plumbing fixtures, all toilets have almost the same components:
- bowl;
- a toilet seat or seat with a lid;
- cistern.
The bowl is the main element. Its shape determines how hygienic the use of the item and flushing will be. There are several varieties, each of which has its own characteristics:
- Disc-shaped– an outdated form of construction, it is a flat platform or “shelf”. Its main disadvantage is its unhygienic nature, since all waste remains on the surface until it is washed off. In addition, water constantly accumulates there, which contributes to the deposition of limescale and rust on the walls.
The only plus is the almost complete absence of splashing and splashing when washed off.- Funnel-shaped– the funnel in the center of the bowl helps to instantly flush away everything that gets inside, making the use of this type of toilet very hygienic. However, it is inconvenient because splashes are formed when draining. In recent years, manufacturers have been designing models with less water intake in the hydraulic seal.
- Kozyrkovaya- the most popular model. Thanks to a special lip that prevents splashes and a slope that facilitates rapid removal of contents and cleaning of the walls, this design is highly economical in use and hygienic.
The toilet seat must be selected in accordance with the shape and size of the toilet. It is made from any materials: plastic, wood, duroplast and even fabric. The seats can be completely simple or supplemented with special shock absorbers, structures for people with disabilities, or a child seat. The main thing in their selection is personal taste, as well as hygiene, comfort and practicality.A cistern is necessary to flush out the entire contents of the toilet and keep it clean. It can be cast iron or ceramic, plastic or stainless steel.
Main parts of the tank:
- rubber bulb;
- valve;
- metal rod;
- plastic float.
When drained, the pear rises, releasing water. When the water leaves, the bulb lowers into place and closes the drain hole.
Required Tools
Before you begin installation, you need to carry out all the preliminary work and select tools and materials in advance.
For installation you will need:
- toilet of the chosen design;
- hammer drill;
- screwdriver;
- set of wrenches;
- hammer;
- screws;
- rubber gaskets;
- dowels;
- pipes for connecting to the sewer: plastic, fan or corrugated;
- plumbing silicone grease.
In addition to these tools, you may need:
- pencil for marking the place;
- a special board for fastening - taffeta, especially for installation on an old wooden floor;
- if the toilet is going to sit on glue, then epoxy glue is needed;
- emery for polishing the surface;
- For final processing you need red lead and tow.
Preparatory work
To know what type of toilet to choose, how to mount it and connect it to the sewer, you need to determine the type of installation of sewerage pipes:
- Vertical type implies a vertical pipe going into the floor. This is an outdated design, most often used in older houses.
- At horizontal the outlet pipes are located parallel to the floor. This is the most common method of laying sewer pipes today.
- Turn off all appliances: washing machine, dishwasher, boiler.
- Turn off the water by closing the main valve.
- If necessary, dismantle the old toilet.
- Using a pencil or marker, mark the installation location of the structure and all communications.
Installation on a wooden floor
Having marked the installation location of the toilet and the connection to the sewer drain, you can proceed directly to work:
- We select the pipes that will attach the toilet to the sewer system.
- We assemble the entire structure and install the pipes.
- On the floor we mark the exact mounting locations for the toilet.
- When installing a sewer drain vertically, you need to mark and drill a hole for the pipe.
- If you plan to use taffeta - a special oak panel, then now you need to prepare it. The taffeta is treated with an anti-corrosion protective compound, and the places of fastenings are marked on it.
- A cement layer is installed between the floor and the panel. The rest of the work can only be done after it has completely hardened.
- Next, the toilet is attached to the taffeta with screws. It is better to pre-treat the screws with a special lubricant. To protect the structure, rubber gaskets are used.
Tile installation
If the floor in the bathroom is not wooden, but concrete and covered with tiles, you can do without using taffeta. The toilet is attached directly to the floor using dowels inserted into the prepared holes:
- Before this, all holes are cleaned of dust and dirt, treated with lubricant and filled with silicone.
- Dowels are inserted into them. The floor along the contour is also covered with sealant for better protection against leaks.
- The toilet is placed in the marked place, bushings are inserted into the holes and bolts are screwed in.
- Plugs are put on.
- Excess sealant should be removed immediately using a spatula.
Glue mounting
One of the easiest installation methods is to “fit” with epoxy glue. It is suitable for bathrooms with wooden floors and tiles:
- First, the area of the floor on which the toilet will stand and its lower part are thoroughly cleaned.
- The wooden floor needs to be lightly sanded.
- The floor area and the base of the toilet must be degreased with any solvent.
- After this, both surfaces must be coated with glue, the layer must be at least 4 mm.
- The structure is installed in place and pressed to the floor for better fastening. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the socket is exactly parallel to the sewer pipe.
- It is better to remove excess glue immediately with a wet sponge or rag.
- After this, for a reliable connection, you need to leave the structure for 12 hours or more.
- After the allotted time, you can use a corrugated pipe or any other pipe selected in advance to connect to the sewer.
Conclusion
With any installation method, remember that all work must be carried out carefully, without fuss. All pipe connections must be airtight; for this, you can use red lead and tow or special electrical tape, wrapping it around the joints.
If an old house has a wooden floor with unevenness and swelling, then taffeta must be used to install the toilet. This will prevent it from splitting, warping and leaking.
After the toilet is connected to the sewer, you can install the seat and cistern. At the end, be sure to check for leaks. To do this, you need to drain the water from the tank several times and check all the fastening points. If everything is dry, then the structure is installed correctly and can be used.
