I’ll simply say that if it is important for you that there is a Russian bowl in the log house, then you need to cut “in the cloud”, be sure to use a lock in the bowl to prevent blowing.
Yes, it is more labor-intensive and more expensive, which means, alas, few people order it and few people get their hands on this type of cutting.
Therefore, 90% of Russian bowls in Russia are cut with an ordinary round bowl, which is then blown and requires caulking. Essentially repeating the technology of rounded logs...
If practicality is important to you, then nothing better has been invented to date than a Canadian bowl on a round log or a Norwegian bowl on a carriage (beam). This type of bowl has been formed over many centuries and today is presented as a clear technology that has its own standard in Europe (ILBA). In Russia, over the past ten years, about 70% of carpenters have mastered and successfully used both Canadian and Norwegian cutting.
So let's see how these fellings differ from each other in practical and aesthetic terms?
In the region(bowl in the lower log) - a type of felling that was used in the 16th-17th century in Russian wooden architecture. Labor costs in in this case less, but the performance qualities of such a connection are low. Firstly, the orientation of the bowl upward allows moisture to get inside the bowl, which leads to the insulation getting wet, the same applies to the groove between the logs. Secondly, the inner, flat surface of the bowl, without any transverse, locking elements, is easily blown, especially after the logs have shrunk and dried out and requires caulking.
Nowadays no one cuts like that anymore. In the heat of the moment
(the bowl is selected at the bottom of the log) - the most popular type of cutting today, which is offered by most companies. The bowl is better protected from precipitation, however, when the bowl dries out, cracks appear, caulking is required, the bowl is blown out due to the lack of a lock, as when cutting “in the tail” (or a bowl with a notch). Bowl with ledge
| - an intermediate and rare option, when a longitudinal groove and a bowl are cut out from opposite sides of the log. | "In the fat tail" |
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"To the brink" When chopping into an okhryap, two identical notches are made on both sides of the log, both on the top and bottom. The shape of the recesses in this case is no longer round, but rectangular, with a flat bottom and slightly rounded sides, repeating the radius of the next log. Okhryap cutting is quite simple to make, but is not recommended for houses permanent residence, because the connection is not tight enough. Historically, this type felling was used in the construction of outbuildings.
Oblo - oblop with a cut. In this cutting method, an unselected quarter remains inside the round bowl - cut. The bowl can be directed either up or down. On the opposite side of the log, a recess is selected in the shape of a notch. The cut in the bowl is arranged from the side internal corner. A bowl with a cut turns out to be more durable and protected from through blowing, but is more labor-intensive to make, which is why it is quite rare.
Hook cutting. When starting to describe this connection, it should be noted that in specialized literature and in practice, two completely different corner notch designs can be called a hook connection. For this reason we will describe both. The first version of the hook design is a bowl, which is selected only to the middle of the log (on one side of the axis of the log). In the upper part of the log, a semicircular groove is selected along the unselected remainder of the bowl. Thanks to this joint configuration, the corner is completely closed from through blowing, unlike most of the other cuts. Therefore, the hook connection is very warm and durable. At the same time, connecting into a hook is very labor-intensive.
The second option for cutting with a hook is notable for the fact that it involves chiseling (flaking) the logs from the inside and obtaining right angle with even internal walls.
The design of this castle is partly similar to the bowl with a notch described above. The difference lies in the fact that the log is hemmed from the inside by about a quarter of the diameter of the log, and the tenon-cut is made equal in length to the size of the hem. When assembling the lock, the tenon hooks onto the rough side of the log, giving the joint additional strength, which is how it gets its name - a hook. This is the most literate and practical type
Russian cutting!
In life it looks like this:
HALF CARRIAGE. HAND PULLING. “finish it” even after its assembly, at the stage of grinding and finishing work. This results in a very beautiful and flexible appearance of the corner. This is an old and traditional way.
The photo shows a cut into a Russian cedar bowl with a diameter of 40 cm. 2 years after the shrinkage of the log house, such cracks opened everywhere, although at the time of cutting it was cut down perfectly! The shrinkage of a 40 cm log will ultimately be 7-10% - this is about 4 cm + shrinkage of the bowl itself.
Three years later, at 35 diameter, the longitudinal groove + crack in the bowl opened, which required additional unsightly caulking.
Therefore, the only way to hide the terrible gaps, protruding moss (or jute) is to close them with rope or sealant.
Oblique paw A much more complex connection option is cutting in an oblique paw. The shape of the paw in this case is a trapezoidal shape with an inclination in two planes. Because of its characteristic shape, it received the name “swallowtail”. Thanks to this configuration, the angle is much stronger than the “straight paw”, but requires highly qualified craftsmen and is very labor-intensive.
The oblique paw also has a more advanced version with a spike, which further increases its strength. When cutting into an oblique foot, after the first one is ready, a template made of plywood or similar material is removed from it and used to mark all the other ends.
Canadian bowl
(America) Saddle cutting (a type
Russian bowl)
Canadian cabin has some common features with the fat tail cut, but at the same time it is noticeably different, primarily in shape. If the Russian bowl is round, then the Canadian one has trapezoidal shape and is selected at the bottom of the log. A spike is left inside the bowl, just like when chopping into a fat tail. On the upper side of the log, inclined edges are made, repeating the profile of the bowl of the overlying log and the groove for the tenon. Canadian bowl, at high-quality manufacturing It turns out durable, airtight and accordingly warm. But the most important advantage of the Canadian castle over the round bowl lies in its “behavior”
The fact is that in a log house with round bowls, as the logs dry out and shrink log diameter decreases, and the parameters of the bowl change slightly. As a result, cracks form in the corners, which require additional caulking. In turn, the inclined edges of the Canadian lock, during the shrinkage process, self-jam and maintain the tightness of the notch, preventing the formation of cracks!
It should, however, be borne in mind that the Canadian lock is not just a special form of lock, but a whole set of necessary technological nuances, which, only if they are of high quality, ensure the tightness of the structure for a long time.
One of the characteristic features of Canadian logging is the absence of gaps between the logs, not only in the new log house, but also after its drying and shrinkage, which allows, after laying the insulation into the crowns Do not re-caulk at all.
A simplified version of the Canadian tenon logging is Russian cutting into the saddle. The only difference between this cutting method is the absence of a tenon inside the bowl and a corresponding groove in the upper part of the log. Everything else looks exactly the same as in a regular Canadian castle.
The Canadian bowl also has many variations. It depends on the taste and skill of the carpenter when working with edges. The photographs show how different the plastic corners are made by different craftsmen.
Canadian bowl with top edging
(classic version)
Photo. Canada.
Canadian bowl with top and bottom edges
(diamond bowl)
Photo Canada.
Click on photo to enlarge!
Diamond groove. Oblique cuts.
Pine dia. 35-40 cm.
Gaps are specially left between the logs for further shrinkage.
Diamond groove.
Parallel cuts.
On the Canadian bowl, the carriage for the internal walls can be made directly during the cutting process.
In this case, the outer walls will be round and the inner walls will be smooth! The ends of the cuts will also be round!
Carriage- this is a log, hewn from both sides to even side planes. The walls made from the carriage are smooth and have a characteristic aesthetics, and are also convenient for additional interior decoration.
The history of the carriage begins in Scandinavia. In ancient times, the cut side parts of a log, called a slab, were used to make floors and roofs. Thus, significant wood savings were achieved.
When building houses from gun carriages, a special corner connection is used - "Norwegian castle". Its difference is high strength, tightness and rigid fixation of the timber in the corners. At the same time, over time, during the shrinkage process, the strength of the log house only increases. This is due to the wedge-shaped design of the lock, which ensures self-jamming of the beams under their own weight. At the same time, the “Norwegian castle” is one of the most labor-intensive connections and requires high precision
manufacturing. wood construction cutting is considered to be “into the bowl” (or “into the area”). With this cutting method, the logs are taken beyond the corner by 25 - 30 cm, which is why the dimensions of the house in plan are reduced by 50 cm on each side compared to the length of the original log. At the same time, due to corner remains they lose 0.5 - 0.6 m of each log, which leads to waste of wood, however, the walls and corners of the house are well protected from rain and wind by the protruding parts of the logs. In addition, a log house made by felling “in the oblo” is considered the most stable. A variant of cutting walls “in the clear” is shown in Fig. 1.
The connection “into the bowl” can be simple or complex - “into the head with a cut”. In the latter case, spikes are made in the bowls of the upper logs, and nests for them are made in the lower logs (Fig. 2). Marking of cutting places is carried out with a special device called a “line”. The line is nothing more than a carpenter's compass. To make this device, two metal rods with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm and a length of 150 mm with sharp ends are attached to the outer plane of a wooden or metal hammer. The groove is marked along the bottom of the upper log laid on the lower one. To mark cups on logs, the wire legs of the compass are moved apart to half the diameter of the upper log and placed perpendicular to it so that the legs are in contact with the surface of the logs. One leg of the line should move horizontally along the upper log, while the second leg will draw an arc on the lower log. In order for the bowl to be unequal, markings are carried out on both sides of the top log. After cutting out the bowl, the tightness of the fit is checked by testing the log. The cutting depth should be such that the upper logs are raised relative to the lower ones by half their diameter. The top of the stacked logs is leveled, giving them a round or slightly oval shape.
Chopping can be done either with the bowl up or with the bowl down. It is believed that when cut with a bowl downwards, the walls of the log house are less susceptible to atmospheric influences, and therefore more durable. The disadvantage of chopping “into the bowl” is also considered to be that with this technique it will be difficult to carry out external cladding log house, if required architectural solution. In this regard, “paw” cutting is preferable, but it requires higher qualifications.
In order for the logs of the upper and lower crowns to fit snugly against each other, a longitudinal oval groove is made in them, the width of which depends on the design temperature of the outside air. With this connection, the upper log is placed in the oval groove of the lower one with a layer of insulation. The longitudinal groove is marked using the same “line”, spreading its rods to the required width. Having placed two logs on top of each other, the “line” is moved so that one rod draws a line on the upper log, and the other on the lower one. The depth of the longitudinal groove recess affects the depth of the bowl recess, which should be increased to the depth of this recess. Having drawn the contours of the groove on both sides of the logs, the wood is selected with an ax, having first turned the log over with the marks facing up. The uniformity of the groove contour is controlled by a special template, which is made in advance. The sampling profile must be the same along the entire length of the log so that the top log is in contact with the bottom along the entire plane. If this does not happen, then the markings should be adjusted and after additional processing the log will fit tightly into place. The width of the groove, depending on climatic conditions, ranges from 15 to 20 cm. Its best shape is a semicircle, the worst is a triangle (Fig. 3).
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| Rice. 3. Log fitting: a - correct; b - wrong. |
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| Rice. 4. : A - “in a huff”; B - “into the cold”; B - “to cut.” |
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| Rice. 5. : 1 - log roofing; 2 - lower crowns; 3 - backing board; 4 - waterproofing (roofing); 5 - pick up; 6 - brick pillar; 7 - rubble columnar foundation; 8 - ventilation window. |
In order for the log house to be stable, it is advisable to tie each row of logs to each other with round or rectangular spikes (dowels), which prevent the log logs from rolling sideways. Pins can be round or have a section rectangular section. The height of the spike is usually about 12 cm, width 5-7 mm, thickness 5-7 mm, round spikes should have a diameter of 25 - 30 mm. The spikes are made from dry dense wood (oak, beech, ash) and installed at a distance of 1.5 - 2 m from each other. From the corners of the walls, the first tenon is installed at a distance of 200 - 250 mm. The nest is made with a length margin of 8-10 mm, so that the spike does not rest against the bottom of the nest, interfering with the correct settlement of the log house. The pins are hammered in with a sledgehammer without reaching the bottom of the hole.
Observing this sequence, carry out the indicated operations of cutting and laying all the crowns of the log house. The logs in the log house are stacked alternately with butts in different sides, maintaining the overall horizontality of the rows. When cutting walls, you need to take into account the orientation of the annual rings of wood, placing the southern wide annual rings inside the frame, and the dense northern ones - outside. This reduces heat losses when operating at home.
Moss, tow or other sealing materials are laid along the entire length of the log and on the cutting plane in a layer of at least 5 cm. The logs are placed on the cutting points with blows from a wooden block or a sledgehammer, checking the verticality of the plane of the logs with a plumb line or level. After installing the two crowns, including the flashing logs, we begin installing the front door frame racks.
Three more types have some similarities with chopping “into the bowl”: chopping “into the okhryak”, chopping “into the cool”, chopping “into the cut” (Fig. 4). They have not found wide application in the practice of wooden house construction for a number of reasons. Therefore, we will not dwell on them. In Fig. Figure 5 presents a general design solution for a log house, where all of the listed types of felling can be used (except for “cutting” felling).
Corner notches are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. There are two types of corner joints - without remainder (in the paw) and with remainder (in the bowl, in the oblo).
Types of corner chopped joints
Corner notches are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. There are two types of corner joints - without remainder (in the paw) and with remainder (in the bowl, in the oblo). Each of the mentioned types of felling, in turn, has different design options, which differ in manufacturing complexity, detail and efficiency.
Corner chopped joints with a remainder (release) are distinguished by the protruding ends of the logs at the corners of the log house. With this construction method, the size of the room will be slightly smaller than the length of the logs, but such a corner design is the most durable and well protected from precipitation and wind, and has a more beautiful aesthetic appearance. The integrity and strength of the entire structure of a wooden house, thermal qualities and aesthetics depend on the quality of the felling.
Cuttings with residue or release
Felling in the oblo
The leading method of cutting with residue in terms of simplicity and considered one of the oldest in Russian wooden architecture. Another method of chopping is called chopping into a bowl. An inter-crown longitudinal groove (lunar groove) and a special bowl are created in the lower log - a semicircular cavity, into which a transverse log is placed on top. This method is the least labor-intensive, since the log does not have to be turned over - all necessary operations are carried out in the upper part of the log. But, it is worth considering that such a connection cannot boast of high performance properties. Firstly, the design, designed with the bowl up, is poorly protected from atmospheric influences - moisture easily gets into the bowl, due to which the insulation gets wet and rots over the years. The same situation is observed with the groove between the logs. Secondly, the flat inner plane of the bowl, due to the absence of locking or transverse elements, is easily blown by the wind. The situation especially worsens after the logs dry out and shrink, so regular caulking will be necessary.
Cutting in the hole
Cutting into the okhlop is also known as the Siberian bowl or ohlupen. It is an inverted version of the bowl connection. Its design feature is that the inter-crown groove and bowl are now located at the bottom of the upper log. This type of corner connection is more resistant to precipitation. Cutting in the clap requires more labor and skill in execution, in comparison with the above-mentioned chopping in the clap, since the log has to be turned over several times during the fitting process. As practice shows, chopping in the clap can be called chopping in the clap, so it is advisable to clarify everything in detail and discuss in detail with the performers all aspects of the connection - the location of the grooves, bowls and other subtleties.
Cutting into a fat tail
The fat tail cut is distinguished by an improved bowl. A special additional spike called a fat tail is created in the design of the bowl. On the other side of the log, a groove is created into which the tenon of the next log is inserted. This cutting method is notable for the fact that it provides excellent strength and additional sealing of corners, since in this case direct blowing is negated.
When chopping into the fat tail, the bowl can be oriented both up and down. This type of connection is technically much more complex than conventional bowls. However, due to its excellent performance characteristics, fat-tail cutting is widespread. This type of cutting is often called cutting in the area with a notch or with a spike. In fact, this is a completely different type of connection, which is described below.
Hook cutting
When talking about this type of chopped hook connection, it is worth noting that in practice and in specialized literature, hook cutting can be called two absolutely various designs corner notches. Based on this, we will pay attention to both.
The first option is notable for the fact that the bowl is selected only to the middle of the log (from the axis of the log on one side). A semicircular groove is created from the top side of the log to the unselected remainder of the bowl. Unlike many other notches, thanks to this connection method, the corner is completely protected from through blowing. The hook cutting method is considered very durable and warm. However, it is worth considering that connecting with a hook is a very labor-intensive process and requires great skill.
The second option differs in that it involves cutting off the inside of the logs and achieving a right angle with smooth internal walls. To some extent, the configuration of the joint of this notch resembles the above-mentioned bowl with a notch. The only difference is that from the inside the log is trimmed to a quarter of its diameter, and a tenon-cut is created equal in length to the size of the hem.
Canadian cabin
Canadian cutting, despite having common features with fat tail cutting, differs significantly from it in shape. Unlike the round Russian bowl, the Canadian cutting is trapezoidal in shape. The Canadian bowl is selected from the log at the bottom. Just as when joining a fat tail, in a Canadian cut a spike is left inside the bowl. On the top side of the log, inclined edges are created, repeating the contours of the bowl of the log lying on top and the groove for the tenon. The Canadian bowl is famous for its strength, tightness, and therefore warmth. The most important advantage of the Canadian lock compared to a round bowl is its shrinkage behavior.
In a log house with round bowls, the following situation is observed - as the logs shrink and shrink, their diameter decreases, while the parameters of the bowl remain practically unchanged. This leads to the appearance of cracks in the corners that need to be caulked. But the “cunning” design of the Canadian lock, under the influence of shrinkage, on the contrary, jams even more camo. All this guarantees excellent tightness and absence of cracks.
It is worth noting that the Canadian cabin consists not only of a non-standard shape of the lock, but also includes a whole range of technological nuances, which, only in the case of impeccable execution, ensure excellent tightness of the structure for many years.
One of the advantages of Canadian logging is the complete absence of gaps between the logs. This characteristic feature observed not only in newly erected log houses, but after their shrinkage and shrinkage. Thanks to this, you only need to put the insulation into the crowns once and never have to think about caulking again.
Cutting into the saddle
Saddle cutting is a simplified method of Canadian cutting with a tenon. The only difference in this option is that a tenon is not made in the bowl and a corresponding groove is not created in the upper part of the log. The rest of the design is similar to the Canadian castle.
Norwegian cabin
Norwegian logging is almost identical to Canadian logging. The only difference between the Canadian and Norwegian deckhouse is the carriage. The Canadian cabin is made from a log, and the Norwegian one is made from a gun carriage. Norwegian cutting is made from a carriage, this is the so-called oval log. Two parallel sides of a log are sawed off or cut down on both sides, which makes the log oval along its entire length. The angle of the lock with ribs and tenon is similar to the Canadian lock. Walls, thanks flat surfaces the carriages turn out to be even, and the volume of the room increases. The appearance of a Norwegian log house made from large-sized carriages is very impressive, the unique design of each carriage, the power and color of the house.
Cuttings without residue
Connection in paw
This type of connection has a number of advantages over cuttings with residue. Firstly, material consumption is significantly reduced, which means construction costs are reduced. Secondly, the rooms are more spacious. Thirdly, from the outside the corners look completely straight. However, this connection method also has significant disadvantages. The main disadvantages of paw cutting are lower structural strength, increased airflow, and exposure to negative impact precipitation To eliminate these shortcomings, the corners of the log houses must be additionally lined from the outside.
There are two options for chopping with the paw - an oblique paw (dovetail) and a straight paw.
Straight paw
With this type of felling, a small distance is retreated from the corner and the log begins to be cut from the sides first. Next, a “paw” is made at the end of the log - they create an even rectangle, which must fit perfectly with the identical neighboring one. The main secret that needs to be taken into account at the very beginning of felling is that to create the first “paw” you need to choose a thinner log and start from its narrow edge. Otherwise, if you start the procedure from a log large diameter, it will not be possible to make a rectangle on thin logs. The resulting width and length on all logs will be the same, but the height will be different, since it is determined by the diameter of the log.
As a rule, they try to supplement a straight paw with a rectangular root spike from its inner corner. This is done in order to achieve better performance properties, since in its pure form a straight paw is a rather weak connection. On top edge the paws create a tenon, and a groove for it is selected from the bottom side.
Koka paw
Cutting into an oblique paw is a more complex joining method. In this case, the shape of the paw is significantly modified; now it represents a trapezoid, two planes of which are inclined. The features of the shape formed the basis for the name “dovetail” (Fig. 2). This joint configuration provides greater corner strength than a “straight paw”. However, this type of connection is very labor-intensive and can only be done by highly qualified craftsmen.
The oblique paw may have an even more improved configuration - with a spike, which significantly improves its strength. When constructing using an “oblique paw” connection, a template is removed from the first paw, for example, from plywood, and the remaining ends are marked according to it.
When chopping with an oblique paw, you can use GOST 30974-2002, to choose correct parameters connections. In GOST they are installed for the paw geometric dimensions, determined by the diameter of the log. This will be especially advisable if the logs have almost the same diameter or if a rounded (calibrated) log is used.
DESIGN FEATURES OF LOG WALLS
Despite the fact that wooden architecture has centuries-old history, traditional technologies gradually undergo changes over time, gaining more and more modern features. This also applies to wooden log houses. Traditional structural units used for construction log walls dating back centuries, they are gradually supplemented with various technical details that make it possible to improve the performance characteristics of log walls. Next, we will touch on various design techniques that can be used to compensate for a number of shortcomings that arise due to shrinkage of logs.
Connecting logs along the length
When building large wooden log houses, developers usually face a situation where the length of the wall exceeds the length of the log. The standard log length is 6 meters. In this case, the logs need to be butted together at their ends. So that the joints are not visible from the outside, the end connections of the logs are made exclusively inside the cuts. It is important to take into account that it is impossible to lay only all butted crowns in a row in height. A solid log must go through at least three rows of joined crowns. However, dressing with a solid log is ideally best done every row. In cases where the house has a long blank wall that does not intersect with other internal walls, an additional cut is made from short sections of logs in this wall, into which all joints are removed.
To connect logs along their length, a dovetail configuration with a tenon is traditionally used. This type of connection is quite simple to perform, but due to the shrinkage of the logs, its strength may decrease over time.
To join logs in a cut, another method is often used. With this connection method, the logs are attached to dowels. For each log being joined, a distance of approximately 1/4 of the log diameter is set aside from the end and a hole is created for the dowels. This hole is continued in the adjacent perpendicular log. The joined logs, after installing the dowels, are carefully connected to the perpendicular logs of the cut.
Another very common way to connect logs is to tie them with threaded rods. In this method, grooves are created on top of the joined logs at a short distance from the ends, and a cut is made from them to the end. Then a pin with nuts and washers at the ends is placed in it, then the nuts are tightened, pulling the logs together. For the durability of the connection, the grooves (ideally also logs) should be antiseptic with special protective equipment for wood.
Undercut
One of the most important components of the construction of log walls is the design of the interventional groove, also called the lunar groove. To achieve a perfect connection of logs, the inter-crown groove should have a slightly smaller radius than the log itself. Then the log is adjacent to its neighbor with two ribs very tightly, and inter-crown insulation is placed in a small gap in the center of the groove. In this case, the edges of the groove protect the seal from getting wet. This design has another significant advantage. Due to shrinkage of wood, logs become covered with cracks on the bottom side. The log literally “sits” when the edges of the seam slightly diverge. As a result, the logs, after shrinking the frame, fit even more tightly to each other. But if in the design the groove of the upper and the radius of the lower logs are identical in size, then after a crack appears, the edges of the groove will move apart, which will lead to the appearance of cracks between the logs that will need to be caulked.
This specific design of the lunar groove is the main difference between traditional and modern cutting technologies. In the old days, to insulate inter-crown joints, they traditionally used tow or moss, and repeatedly caulked the joints of logs. Nowadays, special rolls made of natural materials, such as tape jute, are used as interventional insulation; the width of the materials is selected depending on the width of the groove.
Compensation cut
The use of a compensation unloading cut carried out on top of the log is another modern improvement of centuries-old technologies. The name itself already eloquently makes it clear that the cut is created in order to relieve excess internal stress in the log. The location of the cut was chosen for a reason, because the cut is securely covered by the next log, which prevents moisture from penetrating into it. The cut expands during the drying process, but the number of cracks throughout the log, and most importantly their depth and size, decreases.
The cut is made along the axis of the logs, but does not protrude to their ends and does not pass through the locks. The absence of a cut at the ends is a very important point. After all, the indentations from the ends and cuts are created not for decoration, but to prevent cold air from penetrating from the street into the wall through the outer ends. This is especially important if the building has walls, the inner end of which faces the house, and the outer end faces the street. In this case, creating a cut along the entire length of the log will lead to through blowing of the wall, which will lead to the need for additional sealing.
Hanging corners
This technology applies to all compounds with a remainder. The technology of hanging external corners can significantly reduce the appearance of inter-crown cracks after shrinkage of the log house. The essence of the technology is that the inter-crown grooves on the protruding ends of the logs are selected a little stronger, so as to achieve a 5-8mm gap between the logs. As a result, the logs stick out freely in the air without leaning on each other.
The advantage of this design solution is that, when exposed to air, the outer ends of the logs dry out much less than the rest of the log. As the log house shrinks, the gaps gradually become smaller, and the ends, in turn, shrink more tightly. While the absence of gaps would lead to the log hanging on the external outlets. In this case, gaps would form on the inner parts of the corner, since the internal diameter of the logs would be slightly larger than the diameter of the outlets.
CONSTRUCTION OF LOOM
When erecting a log house, they place it under the first crown horizontal waterproofing. It does not allow the wood to come into contact with the foundation plane, preventing the penetration of moisture and preventing the appearance of mold and rotting of the log house.
Laying the first crown begins with half-logs, on top of which full-fledged round logs are then laid. Particular attention is paid to laying the first crown; all operations must be carried out with extreme precision. Place it in a horizontal plane on the foundation, maintaining right angles. Be sure to antisepticize the first crown.
An inter-crown seal is laid between the rows of logs. To ensure that the sealing material does not move during the assembly of the crowns, it is recommended to secure it using a furniture stapler.
To join logs, dowels (dowels) are used, placing them at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other. Dowels used in wooden house construction are round rods (shafts) made from wood of more durable species (oak, birch) than logs; their diameter is 25-30 mm. For them, the installation simultaneously drills a through hole in three logs. The length of the dowel should be 20% less than the hole prepared for it. Nagel in macce walls are placed in a checkerboard pattern.
After installing the entire frame, logs and beams, rafters are cut in, then the subfloor and roof are installed. The roof is made temporarily, covered with roofing felt or film. The log house is treated with an antiseptic, and the construction site is preserved for a year, because... The log house should shrink within a year.
After shrinkage of the log house, the final installation of the rafter system and subfloors is carried out. In the process of shrinking the log house, gaps appear after the wood dries out, so it is necessary to re-caulk the log house, then sand it and cover it with finishing impregnation (oil, varnish, paint, stain, etc.) of which there is a huge amount today. The rafter system is re-tightened and the roof is installed, and then all the necessary internal finishing work. Windows, doors, finished floors and ceilings, electrical and plumbing are installed.
Decoration Materials made of wood - the best for life. When the difficult stages of planning and building your home are behind you, you are on the threshold of perhaps the most creative stage of work - finishing the house. And if a wooden house, as a rule, does not need external decoration, then internal decoration, even the most minimal one, is necessary.
Methods for cutting log houses. Manual cutting. Russian cutting VS Canadian cutting. Pros and cons in discussion
From the article you will learn:
1) What methods of cutting log houses are there?
1) What methods of cutting log houses are there?
The variety of methods for cutting log houses is huge, and today, very often, more and more new methods appear, and often these are still the modernization of existing ones, which are used as donors for new methods of cutting log houses. And to save your time, in this article I will focus only on time-tested methods of cutting log houses.
The main methods of cutting log houses:
Russian cutting “into a bowl” (with the remainder), which in turn is divided into cutting with a classic semicircular bowl and cutting with a hidden spike, is also called with a fat tail. And both the classic cut and the cut with a fat tail can be performed with both the upper bowl (more modern version) and with the lower bowl (more traditional version, whose roots go deep into the history of Russian wooden architecture, almost all monuments of Russian wooden architecture, including the famous Kizhi, are made in the Russian felling with a lower bowl)
Russian felling "in paw" (without residue), a colder option, and that is why it was not widely used either in the Russian North or in Siberia, but was used as light buildings, although now log houses and bathhouses and houses are cut "in paw" , without really understanding the purpose of this technology. The most common locks in the locking room are the dovetail and the classic rectangle
Canadian felling - has a wedge-shaped lock - a bowl, which, after careful calculation, taking into account the properties of wood and high quality execution, during the shrinkage process, the upper log is seated and wedged, thereby preventing cracks in the bowl. And such a connection is considered more reliable, although it has not been proven in practice.
2) What is their main difference. Advantages and disadvantages
Each method of cutting log houses has its pros and cons, its own character, which it is advisable to get acquainted with “on the shore” in order to avoid surprises. And at the beginning I want to say that today, a perfect method of inter-crown connections has not yet been invented and they will not, because construction material- this is wood, a natural material that has not only positive and well-known qualities, but also its own characteristics, such as changing dimensions, twisting along the axis depending on external factors, depending on the time of year, and the only thing that the methods of cutting log houses should cope with is to minimize the adverse consequences of these changes, namely, the appearance of large cracks, the slope of the walls of the log houses, skewed corners, etc. Therefore, the bowl must securely hold the log in one place and prevent movement in the bowl itself.
Classic Russian cabin with a semicircular bowl, a good option, but in terms of its reliability it is inferior to the Russian cutting in a bowl with a fat tail (with a secret spike), because This very secret tenon (tenon groove) keeps the log from moving along the log. Russian cutting with a lower bowl has an advantage over Russian cutting with an upper bowl (cutting in the oblo), since the bowl itself does not allow the cracked and open longitudinal groove (pit) to open too much, and it is a much more proven option, as I wrote above, almost all the monuments of Russian wooden architecture, and many of them were 300 years old, were cut into a Russian felling with a lower bowl. Cutting "in the paw" is cold, due to the characteristics of the wood, it has increased heat loss along the fibers, and the length of the log is not enough to stop the cold, therefore, the corners freeze. Canadian cutting is completely new for Russia, there are few craftsmen who know how to cut it correctly, and therefore there is a large percentage of defects, Canadian cutting today is fashionable, and if it’s fashionable, then you can make money on it, so everyone gets caught and starts cutting it , but in the end it’s scary to watch.
3) Which manual cutting is better. Russian cabin VS Canadian cabin
Theoretically, the Canadian cutting has a slight advantage over the Russian cutting in a classic bowl, but is still inferior to the Russian cutting with a fat tail. What is the basis for my conclusion in favor of Russian cutting into a bowl with a fat tail?
- The presence of a fat tail in the Russian cabin does not allow ventilation of the corners, whereas in the Canadian cabin, at the slightest mistake of the carpenter there will be drafts, besides, I already said that this cabin is new for us, and there are few craftsmen who know how to cut it
- The fat tail keeps the log from moving along the log itself, thus the distortions of the walls are minimal, but in the Canadian one there is nothing keeping the log from moving along the log itself
- Price, my friends, if anyone says that price is not important to him, I won’t believe him. As I already said, Canadian logging today is a trend and a way of making money, and therefore the price for Canadian logging is inadequately high, on average in Russia it is 20-32 thousand per cubic meter, while Russian logging into a bowl with a fat tail will cost from 14 to 20 thousand, the difference is noticeable
Conclusion:
If it is important for you to be in trend, and you have free money, order a method of cutting a log house - the Canadian one, but if reliability and time-tested technology are important to you manual cutting, don’t hesitate and order the method of cutting a log house - Russian cutting into a bowl with a fat tail.
Thank you for your attention
Saddle cutting is a method of connecting the corners of a log house, in which notches are made at the ends of logs or beams. After that, a trapezoid-shaped bowl is selected to fit the profile of the cut below. When the log house shrinks, self-jamming occurs. This preserves the tightness of the structure, provides the necessary insulation and strong fixation of products, and eliminates the appearance of cracks and gaps in the corners of the house. At the same time, there are no tenons or grooves on the lumber.
This technology combines Canadian and Russian logging. However, the log house turns out to be more dense and airtight. But double drawing of logs and a large amount of manual labor complicate installation and increase the assembly time of a house wall kit. In addition, installation is quite expensive.
After construction, parts of the logs or beams protrude by 20-30 centimeters, which increases the consumption of lumber and does not allow maximum use of the useful length of lumber. In addition, the tails interfere with the exterior decoration of the house.
Installing a log frame into a saddle requires certain knowledge and skills. It is important to correctly calculate the design and create a project. Entrust the work to professionals! “MariSrub” craftsmen independently select and prepare wood, and produce beams and logs. This allows you to carefully monitor each stage of production and guarantee the quality of products. In addition, working without intermediaries allows us to offer the lowest prices.
We qualitatively and reliably assemble log frames, and also offer turnkey construction of a wooden house on an individual or standard project. The comprehensive offer includes the creation of a project and production of lumber, assembly and protective treatment of the log house, installation of the foundation and roof, supply and connection of communications, interior and exterior finishing.
