In the wild, vines successfully use trees for growth and development. Probably, a person there came up with the idea of supporting climbing plants with the help of trellises. Today there are a considerable number of varieties of supports for an even larger range of climbing plants. Let's divide them into two parts: trellises for supporting fruit crops, the appearance of which is not very important, and decorative structures that decorate the landscape of the site.
We have discussed devices of the first type in separate articles: , . Now we will talk about structures intended for flowers, shrubs and uncovered grapes, as well as for dividing the space of a personal plot into separate zones.
Do-it-yourself trellis is not a bad idea, as it can be implemented with a minimal set of tools, made from scrap materials and almost without experience. It will be nice to receive positive assessments of your work from others.
A high trellis divides the area into zonesIf you carefully study the photos of country trellises, you will see that a variety of materials are used for their construction. This is especially true when making a trellis with your own hands. Openwork structures are assembled from plastic and metal, timber and fittings, pipes and slats. The fantasies of amateur gardeners can compete with the ideas of professional designers.
However, in most cases, preference is given to traditional materials: wood, metal, plastic. Let's figure out together what requirements a homemade design must meet and how it can be fulfilled.
Bougainvillea and wooden trellis harmonize perfectly Schisandra loves openwork supports; they are vital for it to bear fruit. The female part of the plant’s flowers is formed at a height of 2-2.5 m, and at a height of up to 1 meter there are mainly male inflorescences that do not bear fruit. For a first-year plant, it is enough to erect a wicker structure 1-1.5 meters high, but starting from the second year of Schisandra’s life, the wickerwork will have to be increased all the time. If the stems of the plant do not have support, they will begin to creep along the ground, strongly intertwining with each other, which will complicate berry picking and care.
Having excellent decorative properties, lemongrass is placed on any vertical structures: ladders, wall supports, picket fences, figured trellises, on wire and mesh frames. The climbing stems of the plant entwine arbors and hedges, decorate outbuildings and sheds. The main thing is not to let the lemongrass climb too high, otherwise it will be difficult to collect its fruits. The recommended height of the structure for this plant is no more than 3 m.
Lemongrass will make any trellis beautiful To eliminate sagging shoots, they are tied to the support parts on one side. When the warm season passes and winter approaches, the trellis is laid on the ground along with dried lemongrass branches. The plant must be covered for the winter to preserve the root system. This procedure is especially important for areas with cold winter months.
Despite the apparent unpretentiousness of climbing roses, they should not be allowed to grow freely. If you don’t properly regulate the direction of shoot development, the vines will get mixed up, small branches will break off, and the integrity of the bush will be compromised. Crowding will lead to a reduction in the main stem, and the rose will not bloom well. To give a climbing rose an elegant look you need:
Roses and trellis complement each other Often in areas you can see arches of roses, preceding the exit to the recreation area or decorating the entrance to the gazebo. Making an arched structure is more difficult than a vertical trellis, but it also looks more elegant. For supports, you can take metal or plastic pipes of small diameter. The lattice is made of mesh, and the top of the arch is fastened with longitudinal ties so that it can support the weight of the entire bush.
Clematis is a favorite type of climbing plant among gardeners. The liana, blooming with delicate stars that are scattered in a continuous carpet along its curly emerald stems, pleases the eye and turns the garden into a wonderful fairy tale. A properly arranged trellis helps to reveal all the beauty of clematis. When planning to install a support for clematis with your own hands, you should take into account the weight of its branches. The rapid growth of stems and numerous flowers significantly weigh down the green garlands of the plant, which means that the support under them must be strong.
Young shoots and leaves of clematis at the beginning of their development grasp the support; in old ones this ability disappears. When starting to make the grating, keep this fact in mind. The parts of the support covered by the shoots should not be more than 1-2 cm in diameter and it is desirable that their surface be rough. The branches are tied evenly, in one layer, ensuring free access of light to all parts of the bush. For gartering, use twine or raffia, which are safe for tender young shoots. You can secure old woody branches with a wire loop.
A lightweight trellis design is good for clematis. Trellis for clematis are made from wooden or metal parts, scrap materials, poles, and branches. Many summer residents decorate the walls of gazebos, verandas, summer kitchens and baths with their favorite flower. To secure the branches, nails are driven into the wall and twine is pulled to the ground where the shoots originate. If you follow professional instructions, clematis should be tied 20cm from the ground so that they do not break.
When planting clematis near a building, you should retreat 50 cm from its wall, protecting its leaves from overheating and its roots from excess moisture flowing from the roof.
A mesh trellis is a common type of support for roses and clematis. For its construction, a metal mesh with large green cells, coated with PVC, is best suited. Strong and durable material easily supports the weight of the plant and perfectly holds the shape of the bush. A simplified version of the design consists of two posts driven into the ground and a rope mesh stretched between them. Step-by-step instructions for the option with twine:
Plastic mesh on metal supports - simple, reliable, neat A very simple version of a trellis that does not require drawings or precise calculations. It is available to every owner of the site and is made from ordinary branches, as clearly shown in the photo. For a complete structure you will need 2-3 dozen branches with a diameter of 1 cm, wire or rope for a garter. Let's start making:
When winter approaches, the branches can be pulled out and stored for storage, and in the spring they can be reassembled into an openwork lattice. If they don't overwinter well, you can always cut new branches. When choosing material, try to cut long and straight branches.
Shoots with large knots and bends may not withstand the weaving and break. Please note that such a support is not intended for volumetric structures and heavy fruit plants.
Metal supports are divided into three types: wire, pipe, and forged. To create a metal mesh, a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm is taken, which can withstand increased load. This design is often used for growing grapes. When assembling it, it is necessary to ensure the symmetrical arrangement of the cells.
Pay attention to an important nuance: to create a gap between large branches, make one vertical with large cells; spans with small cells will maintain the integrity of the plant pattern.
If you need a high trellis (more than 2 meters), use reinforcement (1.5-1.8 cm) or pipes (diameter 3 cm) for its vertical parts. Horizontal weaves for cells are made from thin reinforcement (0.5-0.7 cm). To facilitate the installation of supporting parts, the ends of pipes or fittings are cut at an angle of 40-60 degrees. The length of the underground part of the support should be 2-3 times shorter than the above-ground part.
Forged metal trellises look very beautiful and stylish, but they will not be cheap. If you do not have blacksmithing skills, you may be able to find unnecessary bars on windows or forged gates, then you can adapt them to your idea. The design is heavy, it will have to be securely fixed in a vertical position, but the high decorative value of such an object is worth it to decorate your garden.
Metal mesh on metal supports is a reliable option Stores offer ready-made trellises made of plastic, consisting of support pipes and lattice sections. The sections are attached to the supports using staples and dowels. Flexible plastic allows the structure to be given a variety of shapes, but it is not suitable for “heavy” plants. You can make plastic supports yourself from leftover finishing materials and used plastic products (furniture, containers).
If you want to make an intricately shaped trellis, use a blowtorch to bend plastic pipes. Heated plastic bends easily. To connect individual pipe parts, wooden pins are used, onto which the connecting pipes are placed and secured with self-tapping screws. Having formed the main figure from plastic pipes, the free space is filled with a plastic or mesh grid.
The plastic trellis has an impeccable whiteness Wooden trellis enjoys well-deserved popularity. Of course, you will have to take care of it, since the tree deteriorates under the influence of the sun, frost and rain. But you can build the most incredible structures of any size with your own hands. Below are step-by-step photos of making one of the common options.
The trellis divides the area into zones The wooden trellis that you see in the photo is the basis of the overall structure with a pergola and an arch. The entire complex divides the yard into common and utility zones. The structure also serves as a support for climbing roses, grapes and clematis. 
To build the trellis I used the following materials:
- timber with a section of 60X40mm;
- edged board with a section of 20x120mm;
- slats with a section of 20x40mm;
-self-tapping screws 4.2X76mm (black, rare pitch);
- self-tapping screws 3X35mm (galvanized);
- impregnation for wood "Pinotex";
- yacht varnish;
- galvanized box with a section of 60X60mm;
-cement and sand.
Sketch of a trellis section The structure has the following dimensions (one section): total height from the ground 1.9 m, width 1.8 m, height of the lower beam from the ground 0.3 m. The step between the slats is 0.2 m. All parts, including slats, were coated with impregnation and two layers of varnish before assembly. Four seasons of the structure's life have shown that it has to be varnished once every two years. Sometimes it is necessary to sand the darkened wood and re-coat it with Pinotex before varnishing. Then the entire structure always looks like new.
This is what a support in the ground looks like To install the trellis supports, I dug holes 0.4 m deep. On the ends of the beams that will be in the concrete, I put pieces of galvanized profile 60X60mm (I bought one fence post) and secured them with self-tapping screws. Since the timber is thinner, we had to fill the gap with a 10mm thick strip of plywood. It is easier to use special galvanized thrust bearings, but it was not possible to acquire them quickly.
I adjusted the timber supports according to the height, placing pebbles on the bottom of the hole, secured them with crossbars and temporary supports, and then concreted them.
Trellis frame installed After the solution hardened, I divided the sections in half with additional beams to strengthen them and divide them into lighter visual forms. All connections were made with self-tapping screws. In order not to load the screwdriver too often, the beam closest to the screw was pre-drilled with a diameter of 4 mm. The site has a slope, so the trellis is equipped with a “ladder”.
The next step was to install the inclined slats of the first layer using self-tapping screws. To simplify the work, I made two 200mm gauges from scraps of slats. The gauges were installed at the top and bottom to ensure a constant angle of inclination of the grating.
The slats were attached on this side The slats are long and thin, so they may have curvature. This must be taken into account when attaching the second layer of slats, directed in the other direction, and correcting the curvature when tightening the screws. The slats of the second layer were first attached at the top and bottom, and then in the middle, with the correction specified above.
I was diligent enough to treat all the ends of the parts with impregnation before installing them. But the places where the parts are joined do not “lose their face” over time, and the wood does not deteriorate.
Clematis masters the trellis Most of the slats were cut to size and machined prior to installation. I used a template to cut the slats at the same angle. It is more convenient to do this using a miter box. The result was a rather rigid structure. In any case, I like roses, clematis and grapes.
Clematis must be grown vertically, so it definitely needs a support. After all, the length of the lashes of this plant can reach several meters. At the same time, the stems of the flower are thin and herbaceous - they cannot independently support their own weight, not to mention the mass of leaves and flowers.
Ideas for making a support for clematis with your own hands with photos and brief instructions can be found in this article. Popular types of supports, recommended material for their manufacture, interesting shapes - more on all this below.
Now there are many types of these structures on sale, but you can make the support yourself. In general, in gardens, homemade supports are more common than purchased ones, which are not only expensive, but also more flimsy and not very reliable.
It is ideal if your structure fits into the overall design of the summer cottage. To do this, you must initially select the right material for production. It could be metal, wood, mesh, or branches, bamboo or anything else at hand.
To make a metal support (such as an arch) you will need:
To make a wooden support for clematis, you need:
To create a support from available materials, you can prepare:
To make a wooden support for clematis, beams of the above sizes are dug into the ground to a depth of 40-50 cm, maintaining a distance between them of 60 cm.
The distance between the beams is sewn up with a mounting strip depending on the imagination and wishes of the author: either figured or a classic check.
The two smallest slats (25x15 cm) are used to form the internal frame, the remaining twelve are used to make the lattice.
For better rigidity and stability of the structure, fasteners are made between the frames, and a horizontal bar is nailed on top. Finally, the support is coated with varnish or paint. Can be pre-treated with stain.
Constructing a support from available materials will not require a significant amount of time or financial costs.
The poles are stuck into the ground with pointed ends and installed vertically in the shape of a circle. Twigs or vines are tightly intertwined around them. You need to make two such rings, and if the support is supposed to be in the form of a vase, the rings are made of different diameters.
Then the position of the rings is determined and they are fixed with twine. If necessary, adjust the height of the poles.
Another option for a simple support is a cone-shaped structure. A square is marked on the ground, long strong sticks are stuck into the corners. Several more of the same sticks are added around the perimeter of the square, all the tops are connected and tied. Using small sticks, a lattice is created on the sides of the cone. This support is used for smaller varieties of clematis.
It is better to use galvanized or plasticized chain link.
This design is easy and simple to make - two pillars are dug into the ground at the required distance from each other, and a mesh sheet is stretched between them and secured with wire or hooks.
Soon the clematis will completely curl the mesh and hide it from view, forming a living flower wall.
You can not invent any designs at all, but simply decorate the wall of a gazebo, bathhouse or summer kitchen with clematis, which will serve as a support for the plant. To do this, nails are driven into the upper part of the wall or hooks are secured, and the clematis growing below are tied with twine and secured to them. Plants must be tied 20 cm from the ground, since this is where they can break under unfavorable weather conditions.
Remember that these decorative climbing plants need to be planted at least 50 cm from buildings so as not to overheat the plants and protect them from water flowing from the roofs.
Here the most common and popular ideas:
The arch entwined with flowers at the beginning of the garden path looks especially beautiful.
To make an arch, you need a metal rod with a diameter of 1 cm and four pieces of pipe 3 cm in diameter.
First, the two halves are welded, which are bolted together after the arch is constructed. The sections of pipe used for the construction of arched supports are installed in the ground and filled with concrete.
Similar arches are installed along the path at a meter distance from each other. For additional strength, transverse strips with a distance of 50 cm are welded between the arches. After installing the arch, it is recommended to paint it green.
The choice of material for fixing the stems of flowers and ornamental plants is unlimited. It is regularly necessary to check the condition of the garter: whether it has rotted, whether it is constricting the shoots and whether it is in place.
The most popular material for tying clematis is twine (rope). An excellent alternative to regular hemp twine is synthetic colored twine, which allows you to perfectly hide the places where plants are attached to the support.
Twine and raffia are ideal for tying up soft shoots. For woody stems, a wire loop works better.
Paper covered cord works very well for container grown clematis. It is convenient because it can be easily removed when it is no longer needed.
Properly tied plants suffer less from diseases and delight their owners with a luxurious garland of flowers.
Interesting on the topic.
Ornamental clematis plants are vines with lush greenery and a large number of large, bright flowers. They bloom in the spring and decorate flower beds, buildings, and fences all summer with their colorful palette. Recently, owners of their plots have been making hedges from clematis and arches. These unusually beautiful and at the same time unpretentious plants are gaining more and more popularity among gardeners and summer residents every year.
The genus Clematis, according to some sources, has about 380 species. These are shrubs, subshrubs and herbaceous vines. Today we will look at the most unpretentious clematis varieties adapted to central Russia, which require pruning at the end of the season. To decorate the site, the following varieties are most often grown:
To decorate the garden, hybrids are most often used, which do not require shelter for the winter and radical pruning. Every year, landscape designers offer more and more solutions for decorating a site with a variety of clematis:
But most often, clematis are used to decorate fences, arches, gazebos, hedges, and walls. On hot days, on the veranda or in the gazebo, which is entwined with vines, you can escape from the scorching sun.
The growth and flowering conditions of roses and clematis are approximately similar. This is probably why the British love to grow these gorgeous plants together.
However, clematis grow a little faster, so roses are planted first, which will serve as supports for the vines. When planting these plants, you must follow some rules:
Clematis can simply be planted on the ground between the roses, and over time it will grow around the bushes. Each gardener can independently choose his own combination of colors.
The neighbors of a lush vine can be:
Because clematis belong to climbing plants, they need support to grow. It can serve as a fence, gazebo walls and other buildings. But you can make supports with your own hands, using available materials that are found in every garden.
To make a cone-shaped structure you will need:
In the place where the plant is planned to be planted, stick I have pointed poles at the bottom. You need to form two rings from the vine or branches and press them tightly to the poles, securing them tightly with twine. The lower ring should be larger in diameter than the upper one.
Now you can install an intertwined vine inside the rings, the ends of which need to be fixed to the circumference of the rings.
Installed and still undecorated mesh it doesn't look very nice. But as soon as clematis entwine it, you can get the most spectacular composition in the garden.
You make your own support from thin supports, metal wire, mesh and an old electrical cable, which can be replaced with something similar.
The most difficult stage in this work- stretching the mesh, which constantly gets tangled and tries to twist again. But you still need to try to stretch it from support to support. The task will be facilitated by an electrical cable laid on the ground and secured. You will need to attach a mesh to it.
At the next stage, side supports are installed, which should extend approximately 20 cm into the ground. To make the structure stable, another support is threaded through the mesh from above. Using thin wire, the supports are attached to the mesh.
The finished structure is installed in the chosen place in the garden. Most often it is installed near a building or fence. The side supports of the structure are immersed in the ground, and the top is attached to the building with screws.
Ready-made arched structures and are quite expensive, therefore they are often made by gardeners with their own hands.
Required materials and tools:
Stages of making an arch:
Supporting structures for clematis, especially massive ones, should be interesting in themselves and fit harmoniously into the design of the site. This is explained by the fact that in spring and late autumn the vines no longer cover the supports.
When choosing supports for clematis, you can use the trunks of tall trees. Tall vines with large flowers can form chic compositions, entwining the crowns of trees. They can first be twisted around the trunk, and then throw a carpet on the ground.
If there is no mesh or trellis, you can get by with wire attached to a wall or fence. The direction of the vine is given; it will climb along it to the top of the building.
To make the vine beautiful curled around the support, it must be tied up correctly and in a timely manner. For this you can use simple or colored twine, raffia. Rods can be tied to wooden structures using wire. If clematis is grown in a container, then a paper-coated cord is used, which can be removed without any problems. Whichever no support was used, the vine stems must be tied at the bottom. They, together with the support, need to be wrapped with a cord several times.
If the clematis variety has tendrils and suckers, then in the future the twigs will simply need to be given the direction, and the vine will wrap around the support and hold on well on its own. Only small-flowered varieties will need to be tied to the net.
The plant requires good lighting, so the stems are tied to the support in one layer. There should be no neglect. Otherwise, the plants will suffer from diseases, and yellow and rotten leaves will appear on their stems.
Abundantly blooming beautiful liana you won't grow without feeding. Therefore, clematis are fertilized in the spring twice a month with small doses of the following solutions:
A large bush needs a bucket of this fertilizer.
Clematis respond well to humus, so fertilizer should be added at the time of planting. And subsequently add humus under the bushes every year.
Additionally you can use mineral fertilizers, which are introduced in the fall. This could be a half-liter jar of ash per bush or 25 grams of superphosphate.
Clematis amazes with the variety of its shapes and colors, so almost every gardener tries to grow this type of climbing plant on their plot. They decorate the walls of buildings, gazebos, and verandas. And more experienced flower growers make incredibly beautiful arches from clematis with their own hands, which all the neighbors come to admire.
WE MAKE SUPPORTS FOR CLEMATIS WITH YOUR OWN HANDS: A SELECTION OF 6 MASTER CLASSESClematis are beautiful climbing plants with star-shaped flowers of simple and double shapes. They are perennials and bloom almost all summer.
Therefore, among plants for vertical gardening, clematis occupy a leading position. But in order for this luxurious flower to fully display its beauty, it requires support - decorative, strong and durable. Many gardeners make such structures themselves. And this is not surprising. After all, a home-made clematis support can have any design and size, be made from different materials - everything according to your wishes.
We invite you to evaluate the ease of manufacturing several options for such supports.
Metal mesh - inexpensive support for clematis
Clematis are well held on a metal mesh with large cells
All you need for this:
road mesh (cells 10x15 cm, rod thickness 4-5 mm, width - 2.5 m);
2 metal fittings (d=15-20 mm, length - 3 m);
green enamel for painting.
Reinforcement is welded to the road mesh sheet on the sides.
On the underside of the mesh, the reinforcement forms “legs” protruding 0.5 m. The metal is painted with two layers of enamel to prevent corrosion. The “legs” are dug into the ground to a height of 0.5 m - this will make the structure stable and not fall over in gusts of wind.
A mesh wall can be covered not only with clematis, but also with any other climbing roses: climbing roses, virgin grapes, morning glory, kobeya, etc.
Option #2. Mesh cylinder support
A cylinder support will help to decorate vertical objects: pillars, dry tree trunks, etc. Similar types of supports for clematis create the appearance of flowering pillars 1.5-2.5 m high - an unforgettable impression!
Do-it-yourself clematis support made from mesh
Clematis, especially weakly clinging varieties, can also be planted inside a mesh cylinder
To make this support you will need:
road mesh or PVC coated mesh;
two “leg” fittings;
Wire.
The mesh is twisted into a cylinder, the two sides are fastened together with wire. On opposite sides of the cylinder, 2 reinforcements about 1 m long are welded so that 0.5 m remains free. They are dug into the ground for structural stability.
If road (reinforcement) mesh was used for support, it must be painted. It is advisable to use green enamel, which, as the clematis grows, will completely merge with the greenery of the leaves and shoots. Metal mesh coated with PVC does not need painting.
Clematis are planted next to the cylinder support. To create a pole completely entwined with greenery and flowers, just plant 2 clematis on opposite sides.
Option #3. Support made of stretched cords (threads, ropes)
Clematis climb well on any fairly thin support. Including dense threads that can withstand the weight of heavy clematis stems.
Based on this idea, a support was invented in which the “supporting” elements for clematis are cords.
Homemade support for clematis
Instead of a metal pipe, a plastic water pipe can be attached to the base of the structure
To make such a support you will need:
bicycle wheel;
metal pipe;
Cords;
wire hooks.
A pipe 2-3 m long is welded into the center of the bicycle wheel. Then it is dug into the ground 0.5 m. Homemade wire hooks - 8-10 pieces - are placed on the circumference of the wheel. Each hook is hung with a rope with the same hook at the end. These hooks are fixed into the ground in such a way that the ropes are taut.
The advantage of these supports is that they make it easy to remove the clematis stems in preparation for hibernation. To do this, the lower hooks are untied and the ropes are pulled up. The lashes slide off easily without being damaged. After this, they can be trimmed and covered.
Option #4. Wall trellis
Wall trellises are very popular for clematis due to their ease of manufacture and highly decorative results. It is important that the slats from which such a trellis is made are not too wide and thick. It is optimal to use 40x10 mm bars. The cells should freely allow clematis leaves to pass through, that is, be at least 5x5 cm. But no more than 20x20 cm, otherwise the plant will not be able to catch on to the next petioles and will have to be tied up.
Wall trellises most often have the form of a frame, on top of which slats are placed in the form of a lattice. But we want to offer a more interesting version of such a trellis - multi-tiered. In this design, 8 vertical slats are packed onto 6 horizontal slats. Slats are used in different lengths to form several flower tiers.
Do-it-yourself wooden support for clematis from slats
A wall trellis made of wooden blocks can reach 3-3.5 meters in height and decorate the entire wall of the house, up to the roof
The most difficult part of creating this trellis is attaching the horizontal slats to the wall. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall and the slats are “hung” using “quick installation” dowels. Vertical slats of different lengths are stuffed on top in increments of 10-15 cm.
Thin slats of wooden trellis
For wooden trellises, use thin slats, no more than 30-40 mm wide.
Option #5. Wooden trellis
A trellis is almost the same as a trellis. Only it consists of several sections, mainly three.
The photo below shows a trellised trellis suitable for most climbing plants.
Wooden trellis consists of three trellises
For stability, the design includes support pillars (4 pcs.) and horizontal struts (4 pcs.).
Scheme of a wooden trellis made of beams
Specification of Trellis Materials
Specification of materials required for the construction of the trellis
Work process:
1. Assemble the frame of the central section. To do this, horizontal slats are placed on the vertical supports and the connection is secured with glue and self-tapping screws.
Assembling a frame from wooden slats
2. Inside the frame, on the reverse side, assemble a diamond-shaped lattice. Diagonal slats are fixed parallel to each other. The ends of the planks are filed at an angle of 45°. At the points of their connection with the frame bars, they are fastened flush with self-tapping screws.
Fastening the slats with self-tapping screws
3. The frame is turned face up. Diagonal slats are secured over the back lattice.
Assembling the trellis mesh
4. The intersections of the diagonal slats are fastened with self-tapping screws.
Fixing the joints of trellis slats
Fixing the joints of vertical and horizontal trellis slats
5. The large arch of the central section of the trellis consists of 5 segments. Using a paper template, the outlines of the segments are transferred to the board and cut out. The ends of the segments are formed at an angle of 22.5°.
6. An arched arc with an outer radius of 470 mm is assembled from the segments. The ends of the arch are connected to the vertical posts of the central trellis.
The segments are connected to each other using glue and staples
7. A small arc is cut out of the board with an outer radius of 100 mm and an inner radius of 60 mm. Fix it on the outside of the grille, in the center.
8. The rays of the arch are secured on the wrong side.
The rays of the arch will become additional supports for climbing clematis
9. Cut out 4 arch finials. They are installed in places where beams with a large arch are attached.
10. Make side trellises. First, 2 rectangular frames are assembled, and horizontal and vertical slats are attached to them to form a lattice.
The two side trellises are frames with rectangular cells
11. The support pillars are secured to the base (path, concrete platform, etc.) using metal corners. The trellises are attached to the support posts with the same corners.
