Sharpening a chainsaw chain is, perhaps, no more difficult than sharpening other cutting tools, but subject to the availability of special tools for sharpening it. Her tooth has a complex geometry. Two cutting edges - side and top - of which the second is beveled at a certain angle to the line of motion of the chain, make this operation difficult.
The chain tooth cuts the wood like a planer, and the thickness of the chips is controlled by the height of the limiter.
The intensive work of the saw leads to a rapid blunting of the chain. Several sharpenings may be required in one day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the tooth quickly becomes dull when it meets the ground. It is enough to hook the soil once or twice with the tire, and work can be stopped - the chips become small, and the saw stops going deep into the tree.
The earlier blunt teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed during sharpening, as a result, the life of the saw chain is longer. Determining the moment when sharpening is already required is quite simple. An important feature is the feed force. A correctly sharpened chain is pulled into the cut even with a slight pressure. If, on the contrary, the chainsaw is forced to saw with an increased feed force, then the teeth are dull. A dull chain can also be recognized if, instead of large, thick chips, only small chips come out of the cut.
In this situation, the chainsaw should be urgently sharpened. Do not cut with a blunt or defective saw chain - the result is high stress in the body, high cyclic loading, poor cutting results. In addition, this means a decrease in productivity, high fuel consumption and increased wear on all components of the chainsaw.
To achieve optimal cutting properties, certain angles are attached to the tooth blades. The back of the tooth falling at an angle back forms the back angle of the upper blade. This angle is needed to cut the top blade into the wood.
The posteriorly tapering tooth blade forms the rear angle of the end blade. This angle is needed for lateral chip cutting.
The edge of the end blade forms a front angle with the sliding surface of the cutting link. The front angles for different types of chains vary from 60 to 85 °.
The rear angle of the upper blade characterizes the tilt of the upper blade back.
This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting link and, depending on the type of saw chain, has a value between 50° and 60°. The top blade is the main blade, and the back angle of the top blade is the most important angle. The back angle of the upper blade is difficult to measure, its correct value is formed by observing other prescribed values.
The sharpening angle or lead angle is obtained by measuring from the top cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.
The sharpening angle can be changed depending on the application. As a rule of thumb: the greater the angle of sharpening, the higher the cutting performance when sawing unfrozen softwood. Reducing the sharpening angle when sawing frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother saw run and reduced vibration. However, sharpening angles greater than 35° and less than 25° should be avoided (with the exception of ripping chains, which have a sharpening angle of 10°).
The rake angle, sharpening angle and the angle of the upper blade change during sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting ability of the chain. Be sure to observe the prescribed values.
A depth gauge is located on each cutting link in front of the tooth blade. The difference in height between the top edge of the depth gauge and the leading edge of the back of the tooth is defined as the distance of the depth gauge.
The distance of the depth gauge determines the depth of penetration of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and thus the productivity. The distance of the depth gauge is set depending on the chain pitch and design. Normally, it should be 0.5-0.8 mm, more often 0.6 mm. High values will cause the chainsaw to kick back too much and cause the chain to overhang and vibrate. Low values result in a drop in performance. Since the distance of the depth gauge with each sharpening of the saw decreases due to the reduction of the upper edge of the tooth, the depth gauge also needs to be filed periodically - after 5-10 chain sharpenings.
The round file holder has lines on it to position it correctly in relation to the chain. The holder is mounted on the tooth to be sharpened in accordance with the orientation lines. In this case, the plate itself rests on the upper edge of the tooth and the depth gauge, and the file is located under the cutting edge.
The use of a holder ensures that the file sits on the tooth at the correct height. There are different holders for different saw chain pitches. The correct choice of holder, combined with the correct file diameter, ensures that the file protrudes 1/5 of its diameter over the back of the tooth. Use only special files for sharpening saw chains.
Before sharpening the chainsaw chain, it is advisable to secure the tire. When sharpening, it is necessary, while maintaining the position of the holder and pressing the file against the edge to be sharpened, to make several (2-3) turning movements away from you. No need to try to press the file too hard, the movements should be smooth and measured. Rotate the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. All other teeth are sharpened in the same way. It is more convenient to first sharpen the teeth of one direction, then change position and do the same with the teeth of the other direction.
When sharpening all teeth, make the same number of strokes with the file at the same pressure. This will result in the same length of the teeth. All cutting teeth must be the same length. Different tooth lengths cause the chain to run unevenly and form cracks in it. If the length of the teeth is not the same, all cutting teeth must be filed to the length of the shortest tooth.
After several sharpening of the cutting teeth, the depth gauge is ground off. To do this, a template is superimposed on it in such a way that the limiter falls into the slot, and the tip protruding from the slot is ground off with a flat file.
Such sets, with different configurations, are sold in many tool stores, various sets and individual files are sold.
The principle of using another set for sharpening chainsaw chains does not differ from the first, although its design is different.
A round file is also used to sharpen the cutting tooth, and a flat file is used to sharpen the depth gauge. A special template provides sharpening parameters for both cutting teeth and stops. In the first case, it is superimposed on the chain so that it falls into its slots. The file, superimposed on the template and brought under the cutting edge, rests on the guide rollers. The direction of movement of the file must be parallel to the side edges of the template.
When grinding the stopper, the template is superimposed so that the stopper falls into the slot next to which SOFT (for softwood) or HARD (for hardwood) is written. As in the case of the first fixture, grinding is done with smooth, even movements of the flat file away from you.
Stihl produces two modifications of manual machines - stationary FG 2 and mobile FG 1, installed directly on the tire. There are analogues of less well-known companies, commensurate in price with the simpler devices described above.
The working part of these devices structurally resembles a bow saw, in which a round long file is inserted instead of a saw blade. FG 1 and FG 2 not only sharpen chains, but also correct them, adjusting the length of the upper edge of all teeth to one size - according to the smallest tooth, which is taken as a reference. A rather complicated configuration mechanism allows you to set all the necessary parameters. Sharpening is carried out in 2-3 movements, after which they proceed to the next tooth, saving for it all the settings that were made for the control tooth. This ensures the same sharpening parameters for all teeth. When grinding the limiter, the round file changes to a flat one.
Simple and easy to use electric chainsaw sharpener. It has an adjustment system that allows you to set the chain at the desired angle and bring the blade exactly to the edge to be sharpened. There are machines that automatically clamp the vise when the disc is lowered onto the chain.
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Any appliances used in everyday life, whether they are home appliances or garden equipment, require constant and competent maintenance.
One of the important mechanisms in the economy is this. Regular maintenance of all mechanisms allows you to save time on work and achieve the highest quality result.
When carrying out maintenance, special attention should be paid to the correct sharpening of the chain.
First of all, it should be remembered that chain sharpening must be carried out in compliance with the shape of its tooth. So, in modern tools, the teeth are arranged in two ways: on the side or on top.
Here it is important to take into account the sharpening angle, since the cutting elements are under a certain degree, which is almost the main criterion in the processing of the cutting edge. This parameter is usually indicated on the packaging.
The denser the material to be cut, the blunter the sharpening angle should be. As a rule, craftsmen who saw often and a lot have several chains with different tooth angles.
For example, for longitudinal sawing of a tree, its value is in the region of 10 - 12 degrees.
The main signs of the need to perform the procedure are as follows:
Safety precautions provide for working only with a serviceable tool in order to avoid not only equipment damage, but also dangerous injuries.
As for the frequency of editing, it is impossible to name any specific dates, the main criteria here are the frequency of operation of the device and its functional characteristics.
The tool for sharpening teeth can be different, due to the variety of models. Also, the devices differ from each other in operating technologies that provide for a different procedure.
The main tools used to process the blade of a gasoline saw:
Each device is suitable for such a procedure in its own way, so you should study in more detail the features of working with each of them.
Processing teeth with a file is not particularly difficult, it is much more important to choose the right tool with the right diameter.
At the same time, the main factor determining the order of the entire event is the functional features of the chain web itself.
There is no need to file the chain frequently, it is enough to perform such a procedure as needed, and not just from case to case.
The most popular chain sizes and suitable tool for this:
The chain for the saw is a series-connected links with special cutting teeth. This headset is designed to be mounted on a chain saw. At home, it is not difficult to sharpen the chain on your own and correctly, but you must adhere to certain rules, as well as use special devices that can be home-made or factory-made.
Proper care and operation have a significant impact on the quality of the chainsaw and the performance parameters of such a tool as an electric saw. Specialists can sharpen the chain with high quality, but many owners of such equipment prefer to sharpen the headset themselves. Problems arising from untimely sharpening of the chain, may be as follows:
A blunt chain often gets stuck in the cut, forms fine dust-like chips, and plunges into the cut with considerable effort. As a result, the time spent on sawing is greatly increased. If there are such signs, you can sharpen the chain with your own hands, using a special tool, or a machine. The headset is sharpened as early as possible, which minimizes metal grinding and extends the service life.
If we consider the structure of the chain teeth in the example as a template, "then several important points can be observed:
Only a well-sharpened saw can ensure safe and highly productive work.
The operating condition indicators are determined by the extension of the headset, as well as the appearance of the chips formed during the sawing process. In a well-sharpened saw, sawdust of the same size with the correct shape is formed during operation. Otherwise, you need to choose a sharpening method.
Currently, manual sharpening and high-quality sharpening on the machine are used. Both methods have certain advantages and some disadvantages:
A file or sharpener allows you to sharpen quickly and make the chain sharp enough for the job. The diameter of the round file is selected depending on the chain pitch and varies between 4-5.2 mm. The cutter stops must be represented by a flat file. Among other things, you need to attach a template or pattern to the turning area, which gives the direction to the file.
Headset sharpening technology is simple, but must be carried out in accordance with the following guidelines:
The main disadvantage of such sharpening lies in the significant time costs, but the disadvantage is offset by the lack of the need to purchase expensive equipment and special tools.
Chain saws are kept in good condition and Reliably serve for a long time only with careful maintenance:
It is required to control the tension indicators: there should be no excessive tight tension or sagging. The chain must lie flat on the bar groove.
There are several rules for perform chain saw work safely and efficiently:
The chain saw must be driven with two hands, constantly monitoring the process.. Installing a toothed stop on a log or beam is a guarantee of obtaining a high-quality saw cut. Before using a power tool, make sure that the power cord is intact.
Modern and high-quality chainsaws, electric and cordless, as well as hand-held chainsaws are widely used in various works related to construction and woodworking. The productivity and performance indicators of the work performed are directly dependent on the condition of the chain, so this headset must be kept in order and periodically subjected to correct, timely sharpening.
A chainsaw is a tool equipped with a two-stroke internal combustion engine. Do-it-yourself chainsaw chain sharpening is carried out using special tools. Experts recommend sharpening the chain several times during intensive operation of the device.
If timely and correctly, then its service life will increase. Experts identify several signs when the chain is sharpened. The main reason is the feed force. You will need to sharpen the chain when small sawdust fly out of the cut.
The periods between 2 sharpenings depend on the frequency of use of the unit. Before sharpening the chainsaw chain, you will need to stock up on the following tools:
To process a cutting tooth, you need a round file. Attached to it is a holder with lines that indicate how to sharpen the chain correctly. The hook is used to clean the device from sawdust. To, you will need special manual or mechanical machines. On 1 units, the parameters are preliminarily set. Sharpening of the 1st tooth is carried out using 2-3 movements.
Before deciding how to sharpen the chain, it is recommended to understand the structure of the tooth. It consists of top and side edges. The height of the tooth stopper is easy to change. The sharpening angle is the main indicator that must be observed in order to achieve the required cutting properties. The back angle of the top blade ensures that the chainsaw cuts into the wood. With its help, lateral cutting of chips is performed. The front angle parameter is in the range of 60-85°, and the back angle is in the range of 50-60°.
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Highlights
You can determine the sharpening angle by measuring the distance from the top cutting edge to the guide bar. The performance of the chainsaw when cutting soft wood depends on its value. Otherwise, the unit runs smoothly.
Chip thickness depends on the distance of the depth gauge. The value of the last indicator should be in the range of 0.5-0.8 mm. Otherwise, when working with a chainsaw, increased recoil and vibration will be observed. If this indicator is below the specified value, then the performance of the unit in question will drop.
Before sharpening a chainsaw chain, you will need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules. The round file must be positioned so that its upper edge protrudes 1/5 of the diameter of the tool used beyond the upper edge of the tooth. The choice of file depends on the chain pitch. It must be placed at an angle of 90° in the vertical plane and 30 (10)° in the horizontal plane. Since it is difficult to fulfill these conditions, experts recommend sharpening the chainsaw using special tools included in the main unit kit.
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Step-by-step instruction
The tire is fixed first. Turning movements are made from oneself and should be smooth. When sharpening the chain, it is recommended to constantly turn the file (to prevent one-sided wear). All saw teeth are sharpened in the same way. Pre-sharpen the teeth in the same direction.
To sharpen a chainsaw chain, it is necessary to make the same number of movements with a file at constant pressure.
Compliance with such conditions will allow you to get teeth of equal length. Otherwise, the chain will move unevenly.
To grind off the depth gauge, use a template. It is applied so that the limiter is located in the slot. The tip that protrudes beyond the slots is filed with a flat file. If the cutting edge has no shape or the chain has touched the soil, then a special manual or electric machine will be required for sharpening.
The company "Stihl" manufactures 2 modifications of manual units:
- FG2 - stationary device;
- FG1 is a mobile device.
These nodes are installed on the bus. Their working part is presented in the form of a bow saw with a round long file. Using FG1 and FG2, the length of the upper edge of the teeth is adjusted to the size of the smaller control tooth.
After sharpening the 1st tooth, the same steps are performed with respect to the other tooth, while maintaining the settings made for the control element.
With the help of an electric machine with a built-in adjustment system, the chain is set at a slope (the angle of sharpening is observed). This work is performed by a grinder or a machine with a vice. First you need to find out the principle of the device of machine tools and chainsaws. In the absence of proper skills in working with a chainsaw and electric machines, it is not recommended to sharpen the saw yourself. In this case, you will need the help of professionals.
To sharpen the chain, perhaps, you do not need to apply a lot of effort, since it is not very difficult, in this article we will analyze how to properly sharpen the chain on a chainsaw, and consider all the smallest details.
First you need to find out the reasons why the chain is blunt.
So let's go!
The tooth of the chainsaw you want to sharpen has a heavy geometry.
It has two cutting edges, one on the side and one on the top, one of which is bevelled at an angle that determines how the chain should move, and it makes the operation a little tricky.
A chainsaw with high power cuts the entire tree, and with the help of a limiter, you can achieve what the thickness of the chips will be, small or large.
Why is the chain blunt?
- If you work a lot with a chainsaw, it will become dull very soon. And you will need to sharpen it a couple of times a day.
- Also, the main problem why the chain is blunt is the ground. If you accidentally hook the soil, you can immediately go sharpen it, since it will no longer cut as it should, the chainsaw no longer cuts into the tree so much, and it will immediately be clear that the chips become much smaller than they were.
In order for the service life to become longer, you need to sharpen it as soon as you see that the saw is no longer sawing so actively, go and sharpen the teeth, because if you tighten it, you will need to remove more material from it.
The main check in the need to sharpen the teeth is to give a little more feed.
If the chain is sharpened, it crashes into a tree very quickly. Well, when you constantly increase the feed to the maximum, then you definitely need to sharpen.
A chain that has already become blunt is very easy to calculate, as already mentioned above - this is small chips.
Reasons why you should not cut with a chainsaw in which the teeth are blunt:
- Your body is very tense because there is a lot of vibration going on.
- Immediately visible deterioration in cutting
- Of course, the performance decreases.
- Increases fuel and oil consumption
- There is also a very large wear of all parts of the chainsaw, which will soon be repaired
How should the saw be sharpened, what tools should be sharpened, and at what angle is it correct?
Let's start in turn, the sharpening angle of the chain, measured from your case for use, for example, the higher you take the angle, it cuts soft wood, respectively, stronger and more productively.
The sharpening angle for the link that cuts, it also affects the chain, on average it should be from 50 ° to 60 °
When we reduce the angle, then the saw will enter very smoothly into solid trees, and accordingly, the vibration is much reduced and does not give back to your body.
Now we take a protractor and measure it, it is strictly forbidden to sharpen the chain more than 35 degrees or less than 25 degrees (there is an exception for a chain for a longitudinal cut, which has an angle of 10 °)
Now you need to find out what tools you need to sharpen the chains. Since the contour of the tooth itself is similar in shape. It is necessary to use a file (round) of small diameter.
Sharpening must be done very precisely, you should clearly hold the file without changing the angle, its upper edge of the file should protrude into the upper edge of the tooth, about 1/5 of the file diameter.
An important step is what parameters of the teeth (chain), because it is for him that you need to knock out files for the chain pitch. In standard cases, this diameter is 4-5.5 mm.
And the file is kept at a clear angle of 90 ° in the plane (vertical), well, 30-10 ° in (horizontal).
Sharpening teeth using only files is a very laborious process, and many undertake other sharpening tools, these are also kits that come with the chainsaw itself, or if they don’t go together, they can be bought at a garden equipment store.
Now let's take a closer look at the tools that can sharpen chains:
- File (round), which is attached to a round holder.
- A flat file to be used to sharpen the stopper.
- A template that provides the last operation.
- A hook with which we clean the sawdust from sawdust.
On the file (round) that is attached to the holder, there are special lines due to which it is correctly positioned relative to the chain, and does not go to the side, and the plate rests against the crown of the tooth as much as possible, and thus the file becomes the cutting edge at the bottom.
Thanks to the holder, you will know for sure that the file with the correct height lies against the saw tooth. And for each file with a sovereign, there are many options for the holder.
If you choose the right file with a holder, then you will know for sure that it is 20% or 1/5 of the diameter in contact with the back of the tooth.
When sharpening itself, you need to carefully strengthen the tire, and with smooth movements using a file with a holder, make 2-3 movements away from you, for maximum effect.
To make the affect even more fit as much as possible on the file to sharpen it even more. Also, to keep it from wear, make turns so that it is used from all sides.
We do this with everything with teeth on one side, then turn the saw and do the same thing on the other side.
The teeth also need to be made at the same length, you don’t need to sharpen one tooth 5-6 times, and the rest 2-3 times, do it the same way everywhere, so that the saw cuts well, it can also be due to uneven travel, it can often prick.
When we have finished sharpening the chain, we need to start sharpening the depth gauge.
It is necessary to apply a template on it, namely, so that it falls directly into the slot, then we take a flat file and it is narrower, we grind the end protruding from the slot itself.
When you sharpen the stopper, the template should be close to the one that says “Soft” (soft) or “Hard” (hard) wood.
And it should clearly fall into the slot, and when sharpening as with a round one, we make smooth movements, and with the help of a flat file we make the same movements from ourselves.
Examples of a pair of chainsaw sharpening machines
The entire chain, all teeth can be resharpened with files if you hit the ground or sand, but if this process seems laborious to you, you can use special sharpening machines.
Namely:
A company like “Stihl” produces two types of machines and 2 modifications of manual machines, the first is mobile (FG1) and the second is stationary (FG2).
They are mounted on a tire.
These machines are very similar to crustacean saws, only a file (round) is used to replace the blade.
These machines, according to their principle, also sharpen machines (FG1, FG2). and so they are repaired, by means of fitting the edges to the same size, taking the smallest tooth for the head.
We do this on one tooth and move on to the next, while the settings that you have set remain non-named, after you set up on the first tooth, this sharpening ensures that all teeth are sharpened evenly to the correct size.
When we have already reached the limiter, we need to change the file (round) to a flat one.
There are also automatic (electret) machines available, it has a system for setting up, which squeezes the chain immediately takes the desired angle, and brings the disc to the stern that is being sharpened, there are also machines that clamp on the machine when you lower the disc to chain.
And also you can watch the video of chainsaw chain sharpening
