Oleander is a beautiful flowering shrub that grows in the wild in the Mediterranean. It loves warmth, bright light and water, so in regions with a subtropical climate it will feel good in open ground. The height of the bush can reach 2 meters, but breeders have developed many miniature varieties for caring for and growing oleander in an apartment.
For indoor floriculture, dwarf or slow-growing varieties are recommended, for example, “PetitSalmon” or “MarieMauron”. They are distinguished by thin shoots, small leaves and longer flowering, which begins at the end of May and ends by mid-autumn. Most plants have a pleasant but tart aroma, so keeping them in small living spaces is not recommended. Caring for oleander will not take much time, especially since in the summer it can be used to decorate not only an apartment, but also open verandas or terraces.
Oleander prefers bright light and is not afraid of sunburn of foliage, so the container can be safely placed on windows oriented to the south. In the autumn-winter period, the plant will need additional lighting. It is advisable that the duration of daylight hours in winter be at least 9 hours, this will have a beneficial effect on further flowering.
The shrub needs fresh but warm air. Considering that in winter the flower is at rest, the temperature should be lowered:
If during the autumn-winter period it is not possible to create the necessary temperature regime, nothing will happen to the plant, but you will need to ventilate the room more often and monitor the soil moisture.
In warm summers, you can “relocate” the oleander to a balcony, veranda, or dig a pot in the garden. Clean air and nature will benefit him.
To get a beautiful oleander, care and cultivation do not require high air humidity. It is quite enough to sometimes spray the plant with a spray bottle; it is often recommended to do this in winter, during the heating season. In the summer, even despite the heat, the flower will feel great without spraying, but it is advisable to pour water into the tray of the pot, and you can also throw river pebbles there.
Important! When the air temperature is below +20 °C, water should not be left in the pan; this can lead to rotting of the root system.
With the advent of the hot spring sun, the oleander should be watered abundantly; drying out of the earthen clod is disastrous for it. However, you need to carefully ensure that the soil does not turn sour from dampness and that the plant does not develop root rot. The optimal watering regime is once every 2–3 days.
To humidify, you need warm water, a couple of degrees higher than the ambient temperature. The plant is more suited to hard water mixed with lime; for this reason, watering with rainwater is not recommended, as the soil quickly sours and prevents the absorption of nutrients.
Loamy soil with a pH in the range of 6–6.5 is suitable for growing oleander. It is better to prepare the substrate yourself:
Blooming oleander - caring for it cannot be done without regular feeding. The procedure should be carried out only in the spring and summer, choosing cool and cloudy days, so that the microelements entering the soil are better absorbed. To avoid chemical burns to the roots, the diluted solution should be applied 30–40 minutes after watering with clean water. Both a mineral complex for flowering indoor plants and organic matter are suitable as fertilizing.
The splendor of flowering largely depends on proper pruning. In the fall, as soon as the last inflorescences have faded, the bush needs to be cut back by 2/3, because the buds next year will appear only on young shoots. In flowering plants, vegetative shoots should be pinched regularly. This is an essential part of oleander care, otherwise the flowers will be small and underdeveloped.
Attention! Oleander juice is very poisonous and can cause not only vomiting, diarrhea and heart problems if ingested, but also skin rashes if the plant is pruned without gloves.
Oleander can reproduce in several ways:
This method is more suitable for amateur flower growers: growing and caring for oleander obtained from cuttings. The shoots are cut in spring or autumn, their length should be about 12 cm. The cut should be powdered with crushed charcoal and dried in the open air for several hours. It is best to root the cuttings in a mixture of sand and charcoal; such a substrate prevents the spread of infections. For successful rooting you need: an air temperature of at least +20 °C, good lighting and a moderately moist substrate. Young leaves should appear in 20–30 days; after they have become stronger, the seedlings should be planted in soil suitable for growing adult plants. If rooting the cuttings in the substrate seems difficult, you can place it in a jar of water and add a little charcoal.
It is recommended to replant young plants annually in May or early June, and adults - every 3 years. It is not necessary to completely remove the substrate - it is enough to replace the top layer of soil, drainage and, if necessary, choose a more spacious pot. If the roots have not entwined the earthen ball, then it is too early to replant the plant; in a container that is too spacious, it may refuse to bloom.
Unfortunately, growing and caring for oleander contains many difficulties and even specific diseases.
The most common problems:
The most terrible disease for the Mediterranean bush is oleander cancer. This disease is caused by a special bacterium that is difficult to get rid of. The disease manifests itself in the form of dark growths on plant stems; they resemble cauliflower in shape. When neglected, the bacteria infect plant leaves, flowers and buds. They turn black and cracks appear on them. You can try to save the plant by cutting out branches with signs of the disease; in indoor floriculture, other methods of control do not yet exist.
If the air is too dry and poorly cared for, the oleander is affected by pests: aphids, scale insects, and spider mites. These small insects are probably familiar to every gardener. A soap solution, alcohol solution or tobacco tincture will help you deal with them. For greater effect, it is better to purchase broad-spectrum insecticides.
Oleander is not only an attractive plant that can decorate a living or working space, but also a real amulet. It is believed that the flower is able to dispel gloomy thoughts, drive away melancholy and save a person from laziness!
Evergreen shrubs with leathery lanceolate leaves arranged in groups of 3-4 or opposite. Flowers at the top of the shoots in semi-umbrellas, pink, red, yellow and white. Distributed in subtropical regions of the Mediterranean to East Asia. There are 3 species in the genus. Valuable ornamental plants. The sap released by plants in pruning or cutting cuttings is poisonous.
Place of origin: Homeland: Southern Europe, Africa, Asia, Japan.
Usage: beautifully flowering.
Plant dimensions: up to 6 m in height.
Height: fast.
Bloom: June-October.
Temperature in summer 16 – 23
Temperature in winter 7 – 16
Lighting: Oleander is light-loving. Choose a sunny place for it; shading is not required.
Watering: Abundant in summer, moderate in winter, but taking into account the temperature in the room, for example, when keeping oleander in a room with a temperature in the range of 8-10 ° C in winter, water the plant very rarely, only preventing the earthen coma from completely drying out. If the plant is left to overwinter in a warm room, then water it moderately, just like other indoor plants in winter. Oleander is picky about water hardness, so water it with settled, soft water.
Reproduction: Stem cuttings in spring or summer, which are rooted in damp sand or water. As well as seeds and layerings.
Air humidity: Oleander is regularly sprayed, especially when kept indoors near central heating in winter.
Transfer: Young oleanders are replanted annually, old tub plants after 2-3 years. Soil - 4 parts heavy turf and 2 parts leaf soil, 2 parts rotted manure or greenhouse soil with the addition of 1 part sand. It is better to make drainage in a pot or tub. During transplantation, you can partially trim the roots of large tub plants.
Feeding: During the growth period from April to August, every two weeks the oleander is fed with special complex fertilizers for indoor plants. You can use “Rainbow”, “Ideal”, “Giant”, etc. Oleander also responds well to organic fertilizers, for example, mullein solution.
Trimming: in spring or after flowering, cut off half or 2/3 of strong shoots and remove weak shoots. Weakly branching plants can be pruned to a height of 25 cm.
Pests and diseases: The appearance of pests on oleander is primarily promoted by dry and warm air in winter, as well as keeping it in a shaded and poorly ventilated area.
Scale insects: brown plaques on the surface of leaves and stems, suck out cell sap. The leaves lose color, turn pale, dry out and fall off. Control measures. To mechanically clean pests, the leaves are wiped with a soapy sponge. Then spray the plant with 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).
Spider mite: Cobwebs appear in the internodes on the stems, whitish grains can be seen on the back of the leaves - mite excrement, oleander leaves become lethargic and fall off. Control measures. Wipe the plant with a soapy sponge and wash it under a hot (up to 50°C) shower. Spray regularly. In case of very severe damage, spray with a 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).
Mealybugs: Leaves, shoots, and, if present, flowers are affected. You can see small whitish cotton balls on the plant - the secretions of mealybugs. The leaves become bent, dry out and fall off, and the plant dies. Control measures. Wipe the plant with a soapy sponge and wash under a warm shower. Spray regularly. In case of very severe damage, the plant can be sprayed with a 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).
Features of care: In summer you can take it out into the fresh air.
Keeping oleander does not require special conditions or special care operations. In the warm season, the plant needs daily abundant watering. Spraying should be carried out at least once a day, on hot days - twice (morning and evening). It is enough to apply mineral and organic fertilizers once a month. To improve flowering, overgrown shoots of the plant must be pruned regularly. The best time for this is late autumn or early spring. In this case, old, weak, dry branches should be removed. In winter, oleander cannot be kept warm; it is best to take it to a bright, cool room and reduce watering. Young plants need annual replanting; more mature ones need to be replanted once every two to three years. To plant oleander, you need to prepare a soil mixture of four parts turf, two parts leaf soil, two parts humus soil and one part sand. It is best to use split clay shards as a drainage layer.
Pests:
Mealybug
Spider mite
Scale insects and false scale insects
Oleander is a plant with extremely fragrant and beautiful flowers, fraught with a deadly threat. In the middle of the last century it grew in many apartments. But the rumor about its poisonous leaves forced many housewives to get rid of the oleander. Especially if there were small children in their house. Although no one confirms with real stories the destructive effect of oleander on the owners or their guests, there are few who want to risk their children. And yet it is difficult to resist the beauty of this flower, which simultaneously heals and kills. What kind of plant is this and how to care for it?
The oleander plant (Nerium oleander - lat.) belongs to the Kurt family. It grows wild in countries with a dry or semi-dry Mediterranean climate. There are three species of this shrub. In our area it grows wild at the latitude of the Black Sea coast. Its thickets can be seen near bodies of water, especially in river branches. In the southern resorts, oleander grows everywhere, delighting vacationers with charming flowers and a wonderful aroma. In more northern regions it can only survive indoors. Common oleander or nerium are grown at home.
Oleander is a flower that was grown as a cultivated plant in Ancient Rome and Greece. The first part of the name “ole” means “oil” or “fragrant”. The second part "andr" can mean "man" or the name of the Greek island of Andros. Nerium may have received its name from the legend of the Nereids, daughters of the sea god, who lived in the vicinity of the island of Andros. They allegedly hid from the dangers that awaited them in the thickets of this bush. It was difficult to find them there, and the poisonous branches of nerium prevented anyone from getting close to them.
And the Greek word “nerios” itself means “raw”, that is, nerium is a plant that loves moisture, growing near water.
Myths associated with oleander are based on the poisonous properties of all parts of the plant. They are told in different countries, but the ending is the same. They are talking either about the soldiers of Macedon and Napoleon, or about the English conquerors of Central Asia. But the essence comes down to one thing: having fried meat strung on oleander branches and eaten it, they died by morning. That is, the plant helped destroy the enemies of the country in which it grew.
Oleander is an evergreen plant about 2.5 m high with beautiful leathery leaves, shaped like willow leaves, but dark green in color and much denser. This is where the similarities with willow end. Light gray smooth branches grow upward without bending. Oleander is a flower that is beautiful at any time of the year. But it is especially beautiful at the time of flowering. The first buds appear in the summer, in June. It blooms for a long time, some varieties - until October. The buds open gradually, not all at once. Therefore, in a flowering cluster you can simultaneously see unopened buds, blooming ones, and the ovary. And because of this, the flowering period is lengthened.
The color of oleander buds is most often pink, white, cream, and sometimes yellow are also found. There are also varieties with lilac and purple flowers. Their size can reach 5 cm. The shape of the flowers, their size, and doubleness depend on the variety. They all have a pleasant, but very strong aroma in large quantities. It may give you a headache. Therefore, it is not recommended to place the oleander in the bedroom or room where people stay for a long time.
The fruits are multi-seeded leaflets. Their length reaches 10 cm. They ripen in November. You can grow an oleander flower from seeds.
In order for the oleander to delight you with abundant flowers, it needs good lighting, watering and nutrition. In addition, you need to maintain a certain temperature regime. At a time when nerium is actively growing, the temperature should be from 20 to 25 degrees. Oleander at home normally tolerates temperatures of 28 and even 30 degrees. But it cannot be placed near radiators or other heating devices. In winter, the oleander has a dormant period, so the temperature needs to be lowered to 12 degrees or lower. But it shouldn't freeze either. The minimum temperature is 2 degrees Celsius. But the plant should be well lit all the time. Otherwise, its leaves will fall off, and the oleander will not bloom in summer. Optimal for it would be bright but diffused lighting.
An excellent place in the apartment is the southern windows, where the oleander flower feels best. If you are unable to provide it with sufficient natural light, you can use fluorescent lamps for this. Oleander at home is easily affected by diseases and pests and completely loses its attractiveness. This happens if he is constantly in the shade.
Oleander is a flower that grows on the banks of reservoirs and loves moist air. When heating the room with gas appliances, it is too dry. Therefore, the plant must be constantly sprayed or placed in a container with water, which will evaporate and increase the humidity in the room. At the same time, nerium normally tolerates drying out of the earth clod. After all, its leathery leaves contain a large supply of moisture and use it sparingly.
In winter, water the oleander little, once every ten days, and make sure that the soil in the pot does not dry out. In summer, the amount of moisture is increased, not forgetting about good drainage. You cannot flood the bush. This can lead to root rot and plant death. The first sign of damage is leaves that have turned yellow due to lack of air in the root system.
But you shouldn’t go to extremes and water very rarely. This also negatively affects the condition of the bush. If the leaves turn yellow from the center and fall off, this indicates insufficient watering.
You can take the tree outside, place it in a bowl of water, and add a layer of gravel to the bottom. Water regularly, as it dries, with rain or settled water at room temperature, to which oleander responds well.
Cultivation includes fertilizing with organic or mineral fertilizers created specifically for flowering indoor plants. During active growth, do this every week, in winter - once a month.
Initially, the oleander plant is planted in the spring in a small pot with good drainage. It begins to grow quickly, so it needs to be replanted every year, increasing the size of the pot. When the tree grows, it is enough to do this once every two to three years. Adult plants are transplanted using the transshipment method.
You can simply replace the old soil with new one, removing the top layer of soil, and fill in a new one. It is obtained by mixing humus, peat and turf soil in equal parts. You can add coarse sand and a little lime (10 g per bucket of soil). They also use ready-made slightly acidic soil for indoor plants, adding sand to it. Before replanting, the soil is sterilized by calcination or spilling with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
If the oleander is not pruned, it forms in the form of a bush, as in the wild. But a tree-shaped plant will look better. Its trunk will be thicker and smoother. To do this, the bush must be trimmed correctly. They do this with gloves and very carefully so that the poisonous oleander juice does not get on the mucous membranes. After pruning, wash the pruning shears or scissors thoroughly.
Prune after the bush has finished flowering. But do not rush to remove inflorescences that seem to have already faded. Buds may appear on them again.
In spring, the plant is not pruned so as not to remove the flowers that formed last year. Then your oleander will bloom magnificently.
Getting a new plant is very easy. To do this, take a cutting (preferably non-lignified) and place the cut end in water. To prevent it from rotting, you can throw a little charcoal into the dish. When the roots appear, a young oleander is planted in the ground. Propagation can be carried out by planting a cutting under a jar or directly into a pot. Its leaves are dense, so they do not fade. But as practice shows, rooting in this case will take longer.
Usually oleander cuttings take root without problems. They bloom the next year after planting.
You can grow nerium from seeds. They are harvested at the end of October. Brown seeds fly out of the capsule that formed in place of the flower. They quickly lose their viability. They are collected, not forgetting about safety measures, and sown to a depth of 1 cm. There is no need to stratify.
When choosing a reproduction method, evaluate your task. If you need to get a flower “like your friend’s,” then feel free to cut the stalk. If you want to create a new variety, then you need to tinker with the seeds.
Oleander is a flower that, like most plants, can be affected by fungal diseases. To prevent them, you need to thoroughly disinfect the soil, properly water and feed.
Harm to the plant can be caused by pests that are not at all afraid of poisonous sap. You can see aphids, scale insects, and spider mites if you carefully examine the oleander.
They fight diseases and pests if they are detected using chemicals or products of organic origin (Agrofit, Fitoverm).
A beautiful tree with beautiful flowers, a pleasant smell and a euphonious name is actually very dangerous. All parts of the oleander plant are poisonous. Juice is especially dangerous. And if it is not so easy to get poisoned by seeds, then it is very easy to come into contact with the juice. It is enough to break off oleander leaves, a branch, a flower and touch them to the skin of your hands or face.
It is especially dangerous for children. It is difficult to explain to a child why this beautiful tree should be avoided. And it's hard to keep track of him. Therefore, when small children appear in the house, it is better to get rid of oleander until they grow up thoroughly.
Anyone who has oleander growing needs to know them in order to quickly seek help from a doctor. After poisoning with oleander juice, the heartbeat slows down, then diarrhea mixed with blood begins. Breathing becomes difficult, the person loses consciousness.
But oleander is a rare plant that both heals and kills. As they say, it all depends on the dose.
Preparations are obtained from the leaves of the plant that help normalize the functioning of the cardiovascular system. They do this with the help of glycosides, which help restore normal heart function by acting on the heart muscle.
Medicines created from nerium leaves have a positive effect on liver activity, normalize blood pressure, and help improve immunity. Scabies and dermatitis are treated with ointment from nerium leaves. There is information that they help treat thyrotoxicosis and diseases of the nervous system. But since an overdose of the drug is fraught with dangerous consequences, it is used in homeopathic doses.
A useful feature of nerium is its ability to grow in areas where gas and dust levels are significantly exceeded. Growing there, it purifies the air.
Perhaps, due to the heating season, the air in the room has become dry, then the oleander will benefit from regular spraying with water at room temperature: the tips of its leaves will not dry out. During the active growing season, the oleander is watered very abundantly; During the dormant period, watering is limited. Do not water the oleander with cold water - it does not like it. Do not allow the earthen clod to dry out, including in winter.
It depends where they dry. If it dries up (I mean the CROWN of the oleander), then you are not watering it enough. If it's down, you're watering too much.
In winter, it is advisable to spray the plant with water at room temperature. If the air is dry, the tips of the leaves may dry out.
Oleander requires a large room or greenhouse. It blooms in summer with fragrant flowers collected in clusters above narrow, willow-like leaves. The wood and sap are poisonous. The oleander, when it grows into a large bush, is not easy to care for - in winter the pot or tub needs to be moved to a cool room, and in summer it needs rest in the fresh air in the garden. In autumn, faded shoots are pruned.
If there is a lack of light in the summer, it does not bloom.
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Hello my dear friends! I know how sad it can be when your favorite plants start to get sick. And those who grow pelargonium are often concerned about the question of why geranium leaves turn yellow, and I will try to answer your question in this article. There may be several reasons for this phenomenon. therefore, let's talk about each separately. I will also try to tell you what steps need to be taken to make the plant beautiful and well-groomed again.
To be honest, pelargonium is such an unpretentious plant that it rarely gets sick and sometimes you need to try hard for it. I want to say that in geraniums the yellowing of leaves may be a natural process and in this case nothing needs to be done. The plant sheds old leaves. And in zonal pelargonium, the lower leaves regularly turn yellow and fall off.
Despite the fact that the process is natural, the plant does not look very beautiful. Pruning will help change this state of affairs. In the spring, you simply cut off part of the stem and after a while you will notice the appearance of new, green leaves.
Yes, yes, the plant generally does not like sudden changes. If you put your pelargonium in one place, then let it stay there, otherwise, due to stress, its leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. If you want to rearrange it, you need to do it gradually, moving it a couple of centimeters every day.
Many flower growers take their geraniums outside in the summer, where they thrive, bloom profusely, the leaves become richly green, and most importantly, they bloom from spring until frost. And in the fall, geraniums are moved indoors. This is also stressful for her, since the conditions have changed, outside and the humidity is suitable and there is more light than indoors. So its leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. What to do in this case. Nothing, just leave the plant alone, continue to take care of it and very soon the pelargonium will adapt to the new conditions and its appearance will begin to change for the better.
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Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow?
Probably every gardener has encountered the problem of yellowing cucumber leaves. There can be many reasons for yellowing of cucumbers, from improper growing conditions to various plant diseases. In this article we will look at the question " Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow? ».
Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow? This question is asked by many summer residents and vegetable growers. The cause may be pests, diseases or unfavorable growing conditions.
In any case, yellowed leaves are a very serious problem that can completely deprive you of your harvest. Yellow leaves die quickly and the plant does not have enough light for normal growth. All possible causes of yellowed leaves on cucumbers will be discussed below.
The main reason for yellowing of cucumber leaves is improper watering. Everyone who grows cucumbers in their summer cottages knows that this plant is a moisture-loving plant and in no case should it be limited in water. However, many people forget to water their beds more often than usual in dry weather. As a result, the leaves turn yellow.
Sometimes even those who water run into this problem. And this happens because the watering regime was disrupted. Some gardeners water often, but not a lot, and some rarely, but very abundantly. In both cases, vegetable growers are doing the wrong thing. With frequent watering in a small volume, moisture does not penetrate into the lower layers of the soil, so the roots do not grow in depth, but stick together along the top layer, and the top layer heats up very much. As a result, the leaves of the plant may turn yellow. The most optimal watering regime for cucumbers is 3-4 times a week. When watering, do not over-water the plants.
When watering, it is important to try to prevent water from getting on the leaves on sunny days. The fact is that droplets of water on a sunny day will act as a lens, which can cause burns and the leaves turn yellow.
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In summer, the leaves are green due to the large amount of chlorophyll pigment they contain. This pigment is the plant’s breadwinner, since it is with its help that in the light the plant synthesizes the main sugar, glucose, from carbon dioxide and water, and from it all other nutrients.
However, along with chlorophyll, green leaves also contain other pigments - yellow xanthophyll and orange carotene (the same one that determines the color of carrot roots). In summer, these pigments are invisible, as they are masked by a large amount of chlorophyll. In autumn, as vital activity in the leaf fades, chlorophyll is gradually destroyed. This is where the yellow and red shades of xanthophyll and carotene appear in the leaf.
The destruction of chlorophyll occurs more intensely in the light, that is, in sunny weather. This is why in cloudy, rainy autumn the leaves retain their green color longer. But if prolonged rains are replaced by “Indian summer”, then the crowns of the trees turn into the golden colors of autumn in 1-2 days.
In addition to gold, the autumn colors of trees contain crimson shades. This color comes from a pigment called anthocyanin. Unlike chlorophyll, anthocyanin is not bound inside the cell with plastic formations (grains), but is dissolved in cell sap. When the temperature decreases, as well as in bright light, the amount of anthocyanin in the cell sap increases. In addition, stopping or delaying nutrient synthesis in foliage also stimulates anthocyanin synthesis.
Thus, the red color of the leaves during leaf fall simply indicates the ongoing attenuation of vital activity in the leaves, which are preparing to fall.
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For winter this is frequent watering. We need to do it less often.
your information is not enough!
mine overwinter at 15-20, if in the summer they stood in water, now they are just constantly wet, I brought them as close to the glass as possible to increase the illumination - we are healthy
What kind of pot? If it is large, then it is frequent watering. You can water it this way if your plant grows in a glass.
It is necessary even less often. He is sleeping
In winter, oleander needs a temperature of 2 to 12 degrees with mandatory exposure to light: if you place the shrub in a shaded place, it will shed its leaves and will not bloom the next year.
In a heated room, oleander will benefit from regular spraying with water at room temperature: the tips of its leaves will not dry out
Scale insects: brown plaques on the surface of leaves and stems, suck out cell sap. The leaves lose color, turn pale, dry out and fall off.
Control measures. To mechanically clean pests, the leaves are wiped with a soapy sponge. Then spray the plant with 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).
Mealybugs: They affect leaves, shoots, and, if present, flowers. You can see small whitish cotton balls on the plant - the secretions of mealybugs. The leaves become bent, dry out and fall off, and the plant dies.
Control measures. Wipe the plant with a soapy sponge and wash under a warm shower. Spray regularly. In case of very severe damage, the plant can be sprayed with 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water)
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Oleander (Nerium) is a flowering plant that is common in the Mediterranean region (Southern Europe and North Africa), as well as in Southeast Asia (Japan and southern China). Oleander represents the Kutrovye family, its closest relative is adenium. The plant is an evergreen shrub with lanceolate fleshy leaves and bright flowers.
Oleander comes in pink, yellow, white or red. Cultivated varieties have even more varied colors. The flowers are large, forming inflorescences of five petals.
The name of the flower comes from two words: “olso” or fragrant, and “andros”, after the name of the Greek island where many of these plants grow. Although oleander is very common in the wild, its homeland is the entire Mediterranean coast, and not just an island in the Aegean Sea. It was once called rosewood, just like rhododendron, but then the two species were separated.
There is a legend about the origin of the name “oleander”. Once upon a time, the priestess of Artemis, Hero, lived in the city of Seet. The young man Leander fell in love with her. One day, when he was getting to her by boat across the sea, the wind extinguished the candle he was guided by. Leander wandered around the bay for a long time until his boat sank. His beloved threw herself into the sea waves out of grief. The second legend tells that Oleander was the son of the gods. He saved the inhabitants of one city from a volcano by drinking a lake that blocked their escape route. The young man himself died without having time to escape from the hot lava. That is why the evergreen flowering shrub is a symbol of self-sacrifice and unhappy love.
Flowering oleander has been grown at home as a houseplant for about five hundred years. Its description can be found in medieval treatises. In warm climates, where it can easily survive the winter, it is a garden shrub. In terms of popularity, it can be compared with our primrose. In our country the tree can also be found in our gardens. For example, there is a lot of it growing at the Khobza resort.
Many signs are associated with him. It is believed that the flower has magical properties; it neutralizes destructive energy, helps people gain courage and decide on their goals. The bush also has medicinal value. Its leaves produce a cardiac glycoside called oleandrin. It is used to make medicines to treat heart failure. Sometimes people with heart disease are offered to brew their own tea from the leaves, but this is not worth doing; it is very easy to overdose on glycosides.
The tree grows up to four meters high; houses can stretch two meters. Oleander blooms in late spring or early summer, just when the holiday season begins. Caring for it at home is not so difficult, so the flower is becoming more and more popular. Why is oleander dangerous? There is only one warning - oleander is quite poisonous, oleander secretes a poison that is quite dangerous. Among domestic plants, the only thing comparable to it in terms of danger is Dieffenbachia, the juice of which causes burns and dermatitis. For this reason, replanting and pruning this shrub can only be done while wearing gloves.
Most often you can see oleander in the garden, in the office, because the flower grows quite tall, which is not very convenient for an apartment. Nowadays, more and more people are starting to grow the plant at home, and the problem of height is solved by pruning, which the flower tolerates very well. Oleander has beautiful, bright blooms that will undoubtedly surprise you with its beauty. Caring for oleander is not very difficult, but some nuances should be taken into account. Of course, it is impossible to know everything about oleanders, but this is not necessary for sufficient care.
The oleander houseplant loves bright light, because it comes from the sunny Mediterranean, so it is best to place it in a south-facing window. When choosing a location, it should be taken into account that oleander is a poisonous flower; its juice contains cardiac glycosides, which in large doses cause poisoning and cardiac arrest. Since the oleander flower is poisonous, it must be placed in a place inaccessible to children and pets.
In summer, the flower must be kept at 20-27 degrees, then it will bloom profusely. In winter, the oleander falls asleep; the air temperature for it should be low, about 8-15 degrees. Autumn is a transitional time when the plant prepares for a dormant period. It must be kept at a temperature of 15-18 degrees.
How to water an oleander correctly? When oleanders are in bloom and in the active growing season, they need to be watered immediately after the top layer of soil has dried. On very hot days, water is also poured into the pan. In winter, watering is reduced. If the soil becomes dry, you need to wait a couple more days and only then moisten the soil, otherwise the roots may rot. Water for irrigation should be 2-3 degrees warmer than the room temperature.
Caring for and growing oleander is not complete without regular feeding of the plant. You can use liquid fertilizers or tablets with an organic or mineral composition. The plant is fed when it is actively growing, from spring to early autumn, approximately once a week or once every ten days. Fertilizers should be applied to the soil on cloudy days, half an hour after watering.
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Oleander is a perennial evergreen shrub with?
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http://www.tsvetynadache.ru/2015/05/blog-post_18.html Does oleander bloom here?
The noble, handsome oleander is not capricious at all, if
oleander care at home. oleander care and growth?
The Oleander flower grows in nature near water. In content?
Oleander is a monotypic genus of flowering plants in the family
Oleander propagation. Some simple tips for
Lots of useful information and your favorite indoor plants
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Music by Stelios Vlavianos, lyrics by Alex R. Costantinos, Russian text by One?
We're talking about oleanders.
In Alabama, Florida, Texas, Arizona and other warm parts
The soil for indoor oleander should have a reaction close to neutral. It can be slightly acidic or alkaline. The optimal pH that the soil for a flowering bush should have is 5.5-7.8.
Buy soil at the store or prepare it yourself. You can take 40% turf soil, the same amount of peat or leaf soil, and about 20% coarse sand or perlite. Leaf soil can be mixed in equal proportions with humus.
Having familiarized yourself with how to properly grow oleander, you can keep the flower in the house. Do not forget that oleander is dangerous, and follow the rules when pruning and positioning the pot, because the poison of oleander is quite dangerous.
The shrub, which bears the second name nerium, is propagated by fresh seeds, young cuttings and air layering. Why should oleander seeds be fresh for planting? The fact is that they very quickly lose their ability to sprout. Before planting, they are soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) or in a special fungicide for thirty or forty minutes. Then the seed is soaked for another couple of hours in warm water or in a special zircon solution.
After this, the substrate is prepared; it should consist of a mixture of fine expanded clay with wood charcoal and ordinary sand. Fresh seeds are sown in the prepared substrate and slightly covered with this substrate on top. Place the container in a warm place with a temperature of 30-35 degrees.
The first shoots appear after about ten days. If the temperature is too low, they appear later, and the risk of seed rot increases. When the first shoots sprout, they need to be additionally illuminated; artificial lamps with daylight are suitable.
How else does oleander reproduce? The most popular method is propagation by cuttings. Cuttings of homemade oleander begin in the fall or early March. It is important that by that time the flowering period has ended or has not yet begun. They take a cutting that is 10-15 centimeters long, treat it with charcoal and dry it a little.
To root, it is placed in water with a small amount of charcoal, which prevents rotting. It is also useful to use a mixture of sand, fine expanded clay and charcoal. Near the root collar, pour more plain sand without impurities, you can put a few pieces of charcoal. For rooting to occur, you need to maintain a temperature in the room of about 18-20 degrees; sufficient lighting is also important.
It is advisable not to overdo it with watering, otherwise the cutting may rot. After about 3-4 weeks, you can find a permanent pot for the oleander and move the plant there. Oleander tolerates not only propagation by cuttings; air layering can also be used for this. Take a glass tube, open at both ends, and put it on a branch, cover one end with a cork and cover it with wax. Then pour water into the tube and seal the other end in the same way.
Before putting the tube on, you need to cut a branch and remove a strip of bark around it, about 3 mm wide. When rooting occurs, the branch is cut and planted in a separate pot. Propagating oleander as a houseplant using this method is quite reliable, since the future cutting does not lose contact with the roots of the mother plant before rooting.
When can you replant oleander and how often? A young plant is replanted every year, later this can be done once every 2-3 years. If you have an old oleander or its replanting is impossible for some other reason, a simple transshipment or refreshment of the top layer of soil will do. The tree is carefully pulled out of the pot, the roots are trimmed a little to improve flowering. Transfer it to a new flowerpot or pot specifically for oleander and sprinkle it with earth.
Indoor oleander should be replanted at the end of May or at the beginning of June, sometimes this is done in early spring. The soil for home oleander should be slightly acidic, neutral or slightly alkaline.
The flowering oleander shrub is a rather large plant. In an apartment it even grows up to two meters. To avoid problems with placing such a tall tree, it needs to be constantly trimmed. Pruning of oleander is carried out after flowering. Remove top branches to encourage lateral growth.
The "house oleander" shrub tolerates pruning very well. Even if you remove all the branches, leaving only the trunk, they will grow back over time. Pruning and shaping the crown helps to obtain beautiful, dense, spherical plants.
If you have an oleander in your home, its cultivation will not always be problem-free. Pests, diseases, and improper care can destroy the plant or cause significant harm to it. Proper wintering is also very important for the oleander bush. During the cold period, it needs not very high temperatures and good lighting. Here are some of the main problems that gardeners face when starting a home flower of the oleander genus:
If you care for the oleander properly, many problems can be avoided. When keeping the plant outside, you need to monitor the temperature so that the bush does not freeze. Timely pruning will help make it grow wider. In order for the oleander to bloom profusely, you need to replant it, trim the roots and water it properly.
It is customary to divide the shrub into three types - common oleander, fragrant and Indian. The common oleander comes in varieties of different colors:
Many hybrid varieties have a different color than the classic ones. For example, the Kan-kan variety boasts lush crimson flowers, while the Elegance variety has apricot flowers. Double White Oleander has a double, snow-white huge flower, and Star of Persia is variegated, with peach edges and a yellow center. The Scarlett variety also has a similar variegated color; its flowers are crimson with white streaks. They will undoubtedly look great in photographs.
Other varieties of oleander cannot boast such a variety of varieties as the common oleander, although this does not mean that there is nothing interesting in them. For example, the fragrant species has a wonderful smell, especially when it blooms in the spring. It is much shorter than usual, growing only 50 centimeters, so it is convenient to grow it at home. The fragrant oleander comes from India, like its fellow Indian species.
Kutrov family.
Homeland - subtropics of Europe, Africa, Asia, Japan.
Oleander - evergreen shrub growing up to 2 meters in height. This sun-loving subtropical plant is great for sunny rooms and greenhouses. Nerium is an ancient Greek name, although this plant is better known under its second name Oleander.
Oleanders- Attractive plants with beautiful, delicately colored flowers in white, yellow, pink, purple and orange. The flowers are arranged singly or collected in inflorescences of several pieces. There are both simple and terry forms. Oleander flowers emit a pleasant and strong aroma, but if the plant blooms profusely, it is better not to leave the plant overnight in a living room. With proper care, flowers form from June to September.
The willow-like foliage ranges from smooth green to elegantly variegated. The leaves are narrow, leathery, 10–15 cm long and up to 3 cm wide, with a pronounced midrib, arranged in pairs along the stem.
The most widespread in indoor floriculture is Common oleander - Nerium oleander.
It must be remembered that all parts of the oleander (leaves, stems and flowers) are poisonous, so care should be taken when caring for the plant. Animals that eat its leaves may die. A person can die if he tries its flowers.
Like geraniums oleanders In summer it can be grown outdoors. In temperate, frost-free climates, they can grow year-round against a south-facing wall. In winter, if the temperature drops too much, they are covered with straw or polyethylene.
Plants are sold in bloom starting in June. At this time, you can choose the desired color of the flowers. Always choose plants with many buds ready to open as each flower fades very quickly. Make sure there are no pests on the plant as oleanders susceptible to mealybugs and other pests.
Home OLEANDER - care and cultivation.
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We consider the problems when growing anthurium: leaves or their tips turn yellow, dry, blacken, as well as brown spots and rust on them. We describe the reasons for the appearance of these symptoms and frequent diseases of the leaves of “male happiness”.
Leaves can turn yellow for various reasons. Most often this happens due to unbalanced lighting, improper watering, lack of nutrients, as well as pest damage and various diseases.
To find the cause, you need to read the recommendations of experts and analyze your care at home.
Lighting
“Male Happiness” loves bright, diffused light (10-12 hours a day), but without direct sunlight. Leaves may also turn yellow due to lack of lighting (October - March and northern windows - light with lamps) or from sunburn (summer, most often on a southern window).
A burn on anthurium leaves looks like a large yellow spot, which is often surrounded by dry brown or blackened areas. The burnt leaf must be removed and the flower placed in another place (east or west window) or darkened.
Various variants of yellowed leaves
Watering
Yellowing of leaves can be caused by both excess and lack of water, as well as its temperature and mineral composition.
Yellowing after transplantation
During replanting, fragile roots could be damaged. For information on what to do next, see the same article on transplantation (link above in the article).
Feeding and fertilizers
Anthurium does not need a large amount of minerals (too much is harmful). It must be fed moderately: from March to September every 15-30 days, 20-50% of the dose of liquid fertilizer for flowering species.
Pests
“Male happiness” is most often attacked by spider mites, aphids (especially young leaves) and scale insects. They suck out the sap, causing the leaves to turn yellow and fall off.
Pests
Why do the leaves turn yellow and fall off?
Fungal diseases: anthracnose, root and gray rot, downy mildew, rust, septoria and fusarium.
Improper care at home: lack of light, moisture or nitrogen, direct sunlight (burn), freezing or chlorosis.
Why do anthurium leaves dry out?
Leaf blades begin to dry out due to low air humidity, insufficient watering, spraying and wiping of leaves, pests (aphids) and diseases (anthracnose).
Why do the tips of the leaves dry out?
Low air humidity or too heavy soil and the roots do not have enough oxygen.
The tips of the leaves dry out
Why do the leaves turn black?
Direct sunlight (burn), too dry air, low or high temperature, drafts, high calcium concentration (limescale inside the pot) or root rot from stagnant water.
Rust on leaves
In most cases, this is not a fungal disease, but the consequences of frostbite or excessively high room temperature.
The leaves are turning pale
The leaves turn pale when the air temperature drops below 10° C.
Brown spots on anthurium leaves: causes
Brown spots (dots) or rather large dried (dead) areas of tissue on the leaves appear due to too low temperatures. Large brown spots often appear due to lack of nutrients.
Other causes: mealybugs or aphids (inspect the stem and undersides of leaves), waterlogged potting mix, unsuitable soil, watering with cold or hard water, chilled roots or septoria blight.
Frostbitten anthurium leaves
Brown-yellow spots
If small punctures (yellow spots) are visible in the light of the leaf, then most likely the flower was attacked by a spider mite. If the plant suffers from hypothermia, move it to a warmer place.
If the size of the anthurium leaves is noticeably different and there are large yellow spots on them, then most likely the feeding is incorrect.
What to do if anthurium flowers become small?
Old flower. If the trunk is bare, and the flowers and leaves have become small and pale, then rejuvenation is required to restore decorativeness.
If small young leaves grow and there are large yellow spots on them, then the cause may be a deficiency (incorrect soil) or excess fertilizer.
And if the leaves are small and dry, water with hard water or dry air in the room.
In the vast majority of cases, the cause of the problems lies in improper care, but sometimes the leaves can turn yellow, fall off and dry out due to disease.
Fungal diseases
Anthracnose
The pathogens are fungi from several genera (Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium or Kabatiella), so the affected plant may look different. In most cases in anthurium, anthracnose spreads from the central vein to the edges. The leaf dries, curls, thins and becomes brittle and dry.
The disease develops faster at high air humidity (from 80%) and elevated air temperature (from 22 degrees Celsius). The fungus can remain in seeds and compost, and move when watered.
Septoria
Gray-brown or rusty spots of various shapes with a yellow edging appear on the leaves, which gradually increase in size. The disease develops more actively when there is stagnation of water, lack of sunlight and nitrogen.
Anthracnose and septoria in anthurium
Treatment of anthracnose and septoria
Place the “male happiness” flower in a separate place, remove and burn the affected diseased leaf blades and treat the flower 2-3 times with copper-containing fungicides.
We indicate the hazard class and active ingredient: “Abiga-Pik” (3, copper oxychloride), “Bordeaux mixture” (2, calcium hydroxide and copper sulfate), “Copper sulfate” (3, copper sulfate), “Ordan” (3, cymoxanil and copper oxychloride), “Copper oxychloride” (CHOM, 0.5% solution), or others.
Other rarer diseases
Root and stem rot. The disease develops due to improper watering: too often or cold water (aggravated by unsuitable soil and lack of drainage, especially in winter, when the roots can freeze when water stagnates). Only an immediate transplant can save “male happiness.”
Fusarium. The leaves turn yellow, blacken and quickly fall off, and near the root collar there is a pink-gray coating. The warmer and higher the humidity, the faster the disease spreads.
Chlorosis. The disease causes a disruption in chlorophyll synthesis due to a lack of magnesium and iron. The leaf blade becomes yellow, but the veins are still green. Watering with soft and acidified water once every two weeks and timely fertilizing.
ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:
We wish you to find the cause and eliminate the problem with the leaves of the anthurium, and receive only pleasant emotions from the flower!
An evergreen perennial plant with fragrant bright flowers and elongated leathery leaves. In its natural environment it grows in the tropical zones of Portugal, Morocco and China.
Evergreen tall shrub of the Kutrov family. The leaves are up to 15 cm long, leathery, with prominent light veins, similar to willow. It blooms very beautifully. Buds up to 6 cm, collected in lush inflorescences. The color is often pink or white. There are varieties with red, yellow and bicolor flowers. Blooms from early summer to mid-autumn. Among modern hybrid varieties there are varieties with beautiful double flowers. Oleander is sometimes called pink laurel. It grows quite large.
Oleander is poisonous. It is recommended to carry out pruning and replanting work with gloves. After contact with the flower, be sure to wash your hands with soap. It is better to place it in a place inaccessible to children and pets.
All types of oleander known in indoor culture are very decorative. They differ in the shade of flowers, size, and color of leaves.
Caring for an oleander in a pot after purchase is aimed at quickly adapting the plant to new conditions. The oleander is quarantined, watered moderately, and not fed. Choose a place that is warm, bright, but protected from direct sunlight.
All oleanders are relatively unpretentious. They grow quickly and bloom readily under good conditions. When growing oleander, it is recommended to adhere to a number of rules.
For stable flowering, you need to properly trim and shape the oleander. Prune it immediately after the flowers fade. The procedure not only gives the bush a neat shape, but also stimulates subsequent flowering. Flower buds are formed on young shoots that have grown before wintering. You can cut it hard - the oleander easily tolerates this procedure.
If the oleander does not bloom, it means that serious mistakes have been made in its care. There may be several reasons.
Judging by the reviews, stimulating flowering is quite simple. To do this, you need to eliminate the indicated errors in care and carry out pruning. All weak branches are cut out completely, strong shoots are shortened by a third. Immediately after pruning, transplant into nutritious, well-drained soil. Pruning is carried out in early spring before the start of active growth or in the fall before the onset of the dormant period.
Growing oleander at home is possible from seeds and cuttings. More often, oleander is propagated vegetatively. Growing from seeds is a long and labor-intensive process.
Description . Seeds lose their viability very quickly. It is not recommended to store collected seeds - it is better to plant them immediately.
Procedure
Description . It is much easier to propagate oleander from cuttings. They are cut in spring or autumn.
Procedure
Description . Reproduction by layering is less commonly used. To obtain air layering, select healthy, strong shoots.
Procedure
How to care for oleander in summer? In hot weather, they try to spray the flower more often in the mornings and evenings. If the plant is standing in the open sun during the day, it is better to avoid getting moisture on the leaves. Throughout the entire flowering period, faded inflorescences and individual flowers are systematically removed.
In unfavorable conditions, oleander is attacked by pests. The biggest problems are caused by scale insects, red spider mites and mealybugs. Signs of damage by these pests and methods of combating them are described in the table.
Table - Oleander pests
| Pest | Signs | Struggle |
|---|---|---|
| Red spider mite | - Thin cobweb; - marbling of leaves; - yellowing and falling of leaves; - development slowdown | - Removal of affected leaves; - washing with soapy water; - acaricide treatment |
| Shchitovka | - Spots on leaves; - plaques on stems; - sticky drops on new shoots | - Wiping the affected leaves with alcohol or kerosene; - pruning shoots damaged by pests; - treatment with insecticide "Actellik" |
| Mealybug | - Yellowing, falling leaves; - whitish, cotton-like coating | - Trimming affected parts; - treatment with a swab moistened with alcohol; - treatment with karbafos (up to 40 drops per liter of water) |
Diseases are rare. More often, the loss of decorativeness and weakening of the plant are associated with pests or care errors. The main problems that can be encountered when growing oleander are collected in the table.
Table - Problems when growing oleander
| Problem | Causes | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Oleander leaves turn yellow | - Drying of the soil; - problems with roots; - pests | - Inspect for pests; - adjust the watering regime |
| Dark needles form on new shoots | - Features of the structure | - You don’t need to do anything |
| No flowering | - Keep warm in winter; - lack of lighting and water; - no trimming | - Correct the care regimen; - pruned regularly |
| The buds have formed, but do not open | - Oleander is cold | - Move the flower into a warm place |
| The tips of the leaves dry out | - Air is too dry | - Spray regularly; - increase indoor humidity |
| Leaves wither, color fades | - Problems with the root system | - Replant with removal of rotten roots; - treated with fungicides |
Due to too frequent watering, the root system sometimes rots. In this case, it is better to start treatment as early as possible. It consists of removing damaged roots, replanting, and treating with systemic fungicides. In case of severe damage to the roots, it is better to immediately take cuttings to replace the plant.
Since caring for oleander is not very difficult, it is quite possible to create conditions favorable for its growth in the apartment. Its long flowering period and high decorative value make it a desirable flower in the collection of any gardener.
For what reasons can oleander diseases occur? This is a lack of sunlight, lack of fresh air, dry soil, high temperature in winter. In unfavorable conditions, oleander leaves dry out and fall off. In addition, oleander leaves can be affected by spider mites. The latter disease is typical for flowers in conditions of low air humidity and a polluted indoor atmosphere. So, oleander, its diseases and pests, causes, photos and recommendations from treatment specialists.
Common oleander diseases at home: spider mites, scale insects, scale insects.
The causes of spider mites: lack of light and high temperature of the flower (above +15 degrees) in winter, low air humidity in summer, lack of light. Signs of oleander disease: white, powdery coating mainly on the back of the leaf. In most cases, the leaves of the flower dry out. Treatment: increase air humidity. Daily spraying is required; great attention is paid to the underside of the oleander leaves. If a spider mite infects a flower in winter, then you can take a cold shower; if in summer, the water temperature for spraying is increased to +40 degrees. A prerequisite is bright lighting. If spider mites have infested a flower en masse, use the preparations Fitoverm and Vertimer. If the room temperature is +20 degrees, the plant is treated with the drug 3 times with an interval of 10 days. If the room temperature is kept at +30 degrees, then the flower is also treated 3 times, but with an interval of 3-4 days.
In some cases, with severe mite infestation, the oleander leaf may become covered with whitish spots. Such leaves are deprived of chlorophyll. Over time they fall off.
Oleander leaves are covered with small spots. At first they are light, then they darken. At the same time, they are easily picked off from the sheet. Disease: thrips. Cause of occurrence: abundant watering, high temperature of the oleander. Treatment: watering and spraying with Aktara. For spraying you need a solution of 4 g of the drug per 5 liters of water, for watering: 1 g of the drug per 10 liters of water. Carry out the treatment at least 4 times with a frequency of 4 days.
How to save oleander? Its leaves fell in winter. In most cases, oleander leaves fall off in winter due to lack of sunlight. Experts recommend providing the flower with additional lighting using a fluorescent lamp for up to 8-9 hours every day. Why do oleander leaves still dry out? In winter, this is the high temperature of an adult plant (over +15 degrees). Since oleander is a subtropical plant, it needs winter rest. If a young plant does not have an urgent need for rest, then a flower that is more than 3-4 years old really needs it. High temperatures in winter stimulate the growth of the flower, which depletes it. As a result, the oleander leaves dry out. Ways to eliminate the problem: reduce the temperature, provide the flower with the proper level of illumination (daylight hours 8-9 hours).
Why do oleander leaves fall? Reason: lack of light. Oleander is a light-loving plant. When grown at home, it often suffers from lack of light. A favorable place for it is the windows on the south side of the house. In winter, the plant needs additional lighting. Oleander does not like dry soil, but swamps should not be created either. Watering is carried out as the top layer of soil dries. In summer, the plant is kept at temperatures up to +25 degrees. In winter, the temperature must drop to + 15 degrees.
