Today it is very fashionable to decorate fences, gates and garden paths with arches. After all, people want to have beautiful compositions on their property. It is for this reason that many companies and firms have now appeared offering different variants solving similar problems.
Arches are now used not only as framing paths in dachas, or as supports for plants. They are also used to decorate fences. The arch also decorates internal garden fences.
A variety of details are used as decoration. Arches and original elements They really help decorate the fence. For example, decorating an arched void with forging elements or other materials.
Moreover, arched openings can be arranged in each span, although such a design sometimes looks overloaded.
Monumental arches give the fence solidity. Even if there is only one arch, only above the gate. It allows you to make the entrance elegant and original.
Arches of various types are installed both in external fences enclosing the site from the street, and in fences inside the site. Structures that are built from the same material as the fence look organic.
Plants that wrap around a stone or brick arched vault look beautiful and picturesque. It is possible wooden fences decorate with an arch. And they will look very original in the design of the fence.
Among structures of this type, there are several main types:
Stages of work on arranging arches various types are the same, they have their own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, before starting work on the design arched openings, you need to decide which type of arch is more suitable for the fence and site, and prepare all the right tool and building materials.
Schematic representation of masonry devices
Work on the installation of brick or stone masonry is divided into the following stages:
The arched opening template is made from chipboard sheets and prepared paper patterns. The beauty of the vault will depend on the accuracy of the template. It is made slightly smaller than the arched opening. Then it will be easier to remove it after finishing all the work.
It is not so difficult to make such structures yourself. The main thing is to make the formwork correctly.
In the span of the fence where the arch will be built, four posts are made. And they are placed on prepared wedges. After completing the construction of the arched ceiling, the wedges are removed and the racks are easily pulled out.
The structure will remain in the formwork for several days until the solution dries. After drying, the parts of the formwork are gradually dismantled, making sure that the structure is not damaged. First, the wedges are pulled out. The formwork is lowered and everything can be disassembled easily. The circles are taken out last.
The laying of the vault usually begins from its edges, on both sides at the same time, gradually moving towards the center of the vault. Bricks must be laid as tightly as possible.
An odd number of bricks or stones should always be placed in the vault. And the topmost brick should be placed strictly in the middle of the arch arch.
To decorate brick fence or an arched gate looked beautiful and elegant, and was also durable; trapezoidal bricks are used. They provide more reliable fixation of the entire arched structure. Trapezoidal bricks are sold in special stores and are called wedge bricks.
It is imperative to take into account such dangerous situations when, due to errors, arched structures may fall apart:
These structures can be different styles. But an arched vault made independently will decorate any fence in an original way.
Good day, dear readers!
We often receive orders to build a large brick arch over the garage door.
Since the arch is large (about 3 m), it is necessary to take into account some nuances so that it is beautiful and durable.
In this article I will share my experience, namely:
Why might the arch above the garage door sag and burst?
- How to make an arch with your own hands stronger and more reliable.
The arch in the photo above is 3 m wide. According to the project, the original width of the arch in the garage was supposed to be 2.5 m, but it is narrow. It is not clear why, but on many house designs, the entrance gate to the garage is 2.5 m wide.
We almost always make it wider. If possible, it is better to make the width of the entrance to the garage at least 3 m.
Gate height:
In the place where the arch begins to turn, then from the clean floor to the beginning of the arch is 2,160 mm.
In the very high place from the finished floor to the top of the arch 2,462 mm.
Almost all customers want the arc of the arch to be minimal, but the lower the arch is positioned (lower), the weaker it is. We built a very low arch in the garage about five years ago. The height of the arc was only 200 mm, the width of the gate was about 3 m, and the height was a brick (double).
After 3 years, the arch sagged a little and a small hairline crack appeared above it. Of course she won’t fall, but it’s still not nice that it happened this way.
Therefore, in this article we are making the arch a little higher - 312 mm. This is the height of the arch from its beginning to its highest point.
We make a wooden template for the arch from chipboard, insert it for volume wooden blocks and nail the fiberboard on top with small nails.
We will remove the wooden template on the same day that we rolled out the arch. To do this, before building the arch, it is necessary to build refuge grooves so that you can quickly crimp the brick arch and remove the template.
After we built the refuge fines, made a template, and installed it in the opening.
A nuance: if we want to roll the arch and remove the template on the same day, it is best to start in the morning. So that the brick arch stands for 4 - 5 hours and the mortar sets.
If the materials from which the arch will be built are cleaned of the mortar normally, then you can remove the arch the next day. Cleaning the arch the next day will take twice as long, since the mortar becomes stronger every day.
It is also necessary to pay attention to the weight of our arch, since we used ordinary edged shalevka (board thickness 25 mm) as supports. If the arch is wide, low, double in height (brick), then it can have decent weight.
To ensure that the template does not break and that the racks can withstand it, it is better to estimate the approximate weight of the arch. In our case, the brick in the arch with mortar will weigh approximately 270 kg. The template weighs about 30 kg.
There will be approximately 150 kg of pressure on each rack. In principle, this is not a lot of weight. It is necessary to pay attention that there is no debris under the racks and that they fit tightly to the base so that the fresh arch does not sag.
First of all, we make the heels of the arch, on which the arch will rest.
But here one nuance arises. To make such a beautiful heel, you need to slightly trim two bricks so that the arch sits a little lower.
Using a grinder, we cut one brick on the window frame (horizontal) and one on a wooden template. We do the same for the second heel on the left. Nothing complicated.
If you don’t cut anything, then the body of the brick will not be enough and small triangles will appear in the very corner of the heel (outside).
Before you start building an arch, you need to calculate the number of bricks that will go into the arch, so as not to trim the brick, but so that it is all intact. Since our arch is very large, we can easily play with the seams, namely, make them a little thicker or a little thinner.
We can also make an even or odd number of bricks if necessary. Usually this is calculated if it is necessary to insert a crown (three bricks) in the middle of the arch, then it is necessary to lay an odd number of bricks.
It is also advisable to make not very thick seams on large arches. Bottom seam, where the brick touches wooden template The thickness of the seam is desirable from 3 mm to 6 mm. So, we measure the top of the template with a tape measure and see that 45 bricks fit (not counting the heels). Seam thickness (bottom) 5 mm.
If necessary, we can reduce the thickness of the seam by only 1.5 mm and squeeze another brick into the arch (46 pieces). Or, on the contrary, increase the thickness of the seam by 1.5 mm and reduce the number of bricks in the arch by one piece (44 bricks). Visually it will be beautiful either way.
After everything has been calculated, we mark on the template using a tape measure and a pencil the marks every five bricks. These risks will help you maintain order and lay the amount of brick in the arch that we decided.
We build an arch from the heels to the center, adhering to the marked marks through five bricks.
In the middle we place the last brick called the key brick.
Particular attention must be paid to sealing the last seam in the key brick so that it is properly sealed.
To remove the template on the same day, you need to crimp the arch with a facing brick.
An important point: the weakest point is near the arch. Since there is a large opening (gate) in the wall, it weakens the wall.
Please note that in most old buildings (one and five-story) there are almost always cracks under the windows and in the openings on the outer walls. Big windows and techniques weaken the wall.
Therefore, for strength, we lay over the arch in brickwork fittings, diameter 6 mm. In total, we have three rows of bricks above the arch and one rod of reinforcement (6 mm) can be placed in each row. Length of reinforcement from pilaster to pilaster.
Since the reinforcement is smooth (does not have ribs), it clings weaker to the brickwork. Therefore, it is best to bend the ends of the reinforcement (like the letter “p” with a tail).
Now an interesting point: note that above the arch the yellowish brick (straight) is cut. That is, 7 light bricks in the middle, above the arch, in each row are cut with a grinder and have a size of 220 mm. This is because I made a mistake when laying a brick at the bottom of the gate (under the ventilation).
When we started crimping the arch, we didn’t end up with a multiple of 50 mm above it. If we had not cut off seven bricks in each row, we would have had a small checkmark measuring 50 mm above the arch, and this is not acceptable, since it immediately catches the eye.
Since the distance between the pilasters is not a multiple of a whole brick, it was necessary to make not a checkerboard (50 mm), but a three-four (170 mm) above the arch. But if we had placed one three-four in each row above the arch, then this would also be striking.
It was planned to make not just one three-four, but, for example, three above the arch in each row, so that it would not be so noticeable.
Summary: I’m sure you didn’t notice in the first (top) photo that the brick above the arch is cut. Thanks to this great cunning(brick trimming) you can correct defects in the masonry of the walls so that there are no marks and everything is visually beautiful.
The more three-fours you cut, the less noticeable the imperfections of the facing masonry will be.
After we have built the facing brickwork, we need to tie the backfill together inside the garage with a reinforced concrete belt.
The front arch protrudes 40 mm from the outside and extends 90 mm inside. Unfortunately, we cannot insulate the wall above the arch itself. All external walls of the garage are insulated with mineral wool, but it does not work above the arch; we will consider the reason below:
The gates for this garage will be automatic, sectional, and lift up. The door leaf is a sandwich panel with insulation inside.
In the photo above we see backing bricks in the corners above the arch - we did this for alignment. Since this backing brick above the arch will be visible (when the gate is open), it must be faced with either tiles or paintable plaster.
Therefore, we recessed the backing brick a little so that the cladding (tile or plaster) was flush with the facing masonry (it will become clearer later).
In the photo above you see that the reinforcement frame breaks off above the arch, but you cannot break the belt! Therefore, instead of a frame, we place a vertical mesh of reinforcement above the arch.
We make the mesh over the arch from the same reinforcement as the frame with a diameter of 12 mm. In the frame we have four strands of ribbed reinforcement, in the mesh we also make four strands, but vertically.
We place the formwork over the arch:
We remove the formwork after 2 – 3 days 
The result was a wonderful reinforced concrete belt. The belt above the arch is no worse than the belt on the walls. The top of the garage is well connected.
The fact is that the gate leaf will go into this niche and, when closing, will be adjacent to the acre and the niche. If you make a reinforced concrete belt over the arch the same as on the walls, then the gate will not close.
Second option: you can make a reinforced concrete belt the same width as on the walls, then it (reinforced concrete) must be made 300 mm higher. Then it is necessary to lift the entire garage up by 300 mm, and this is an extra cost overrun.
The garage floor will be wooden, the roof will also be wooden, and the roof will be metal tiles.
As a result, we ended up with a beautiful and durable arch over the garage door. In front masonry, the arch is tied with reinforcement and tied inside with a reinforced concrete belt.
Today in this article you learned how to make an arch with your own hands.
The garden plot begins with a gate or wicket. Beautiful fences perform several functions at the same time: they keep people and pets from trampling plants, prevent strangers from entering the site and act as a kind of calling card of the garden.
Garden gates are in most cases small structures. The width of such a structure is about one meter, sometimes one and a half. One person should be able to easily pass through the gate, a bicycle or stroller should pass through, and garden equipment should fit unhindered. Entrance gates, unlike garden gates, are about three meters wide - a car can freely pass through them.
When creating a garden gate, a number of requirements must be met:
When choosing a garden gate, you need to evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of different fence models. All gates are classified according to two main characteristics: design features and material of manufacture.
Based on the type of opening, gates are divided into swing and tilt gates. The most popular first option is a gate swing garden. This model is considered classic and has a number of significant advantages:
Garden sliding gates indispensable in cases where there is no room to swing the sash open. The gate leaf moves parallel to the fence itself. The basis of the design is a console and a hidden mechanism on rollers. Thanks to the rollers, the gate closes/opens without difficulty. Additional advantages of the design:
It must be taken into account that sliding structures They also have some disadvantages:
An important point is the type of gate trim. Garden fences come in lattice and solid types.
Lattice gates usually installed on summer cottages. The garden can be seen through this structure, while at the same time the fence prevents strangers from entering the site. Advantages of lattice gates:
According to some gardeners, the only drawback of lattice gates is their transparency. This disadvantage is deprived blind structures, consisting of a continuous sheet without holes. The garden area is not visible behind a blind fence - an additional feeling of coziness and comfort is created. To make the gates look more organic against the background of the garden landscape design, they are decorated with various decorative elements.
An interesting option is a mixed type gate. Typically, the design of such gates includes a solid bottom and a translucent lattice top. With their help, it will be possible to prevent viewing of the area and reduce the force of the wind.
For visual differentiation local area and gardens are often installed decorative gates. Most options are easy enough to make yourself.
Garden gate from wooden picket fence includes the following elements: installation posts, struts, crossbars, pickets, metal/wooden hinges and strapping bars.
Basic load-bearing element structures - pillars. Hinges are fixed on them and the gate leaf is hung. Typically the posts are made from the same materials as the gate. In addition, support pillars are erected from concrete or brick. Installation metal poles made from square/rectangular pipes measuring at least 100*100 mm.
Important! During the installation of support pillars, their lower part must be processed protective coating- bitumen composition. This measure will protect the metal from corrosion and destruction.
It is better to make wooden supports from hard wood: chestnut, oak, larch. When using spruce or pine, the posts must be treated with an antiseptic and then painted. Important condition long service life - regular renewal of the paint layer.
A more difficult and painstaking job that takes additional time is the installation of brick support pillars. To securely fix the supports, it is necessary to lay a foundation with a depth of at least 0.5 m. Relative to the perimeter of the pillar, the protrusion of the foundation must be at least 0.15 m. Concrete support pillars are purchased ready-made.
Metal gates made from chain-link mesh or corrugated sheets are very easy to manufacture. For its construction you will need a minimum of materials and tools:
There are many ways to decorate and highlight individuality. suburban area. One of the popular options among gardeners and summer residents are gates with arches. This design of garden gates gives the area an aura of sophistication and romance.
We list the main types of arches for garden gates. Arches are traditionally shaped in an arc or in the shape of the letter P. A variety of materials are used to create an arch over the gate. It can be carved from wood or, following rustic style, is made from a curved pole.
More complex, spectacular gates with arches are made of forged metal with floral, geometric or other ornaments.
Stone arches look fundamental. In this case, the gate is made of wood or metal with elements of artistic forging.
The landscape design of the garden will be harmoniously complemented by a gate with a flower arch. Climbing plants twine around trellised wooden or metal constructions. From ornamental shrubs and flowers are often planted: climbing rose, ivy, virgin grapes and clematis.
For personal plot, maintained in strict oriental style Japanese gates will do. For many centuries, this element of the structure has played an important symbolic role, remaining the main detail of the Japanese garden.
The symbol of Japan, the torii gate, has simple design. There are two crossbars on two wooden posts. Wood is usually used as the basis of the structure. The following materials are suitable for the roof: iron, copper, timber, solid and small tiles.
Landscape design experts advise adding oriental notes to your garden design and decorating the gates with the help of ornamental plants:
When choosing a garden gate, you need to pay attention to some aspects:
To make wooden gates, it is enough to have some carpentry skills. It is better to construct fences from oak, larch or cedar - such wood is resistant to environmental influences.
Scroll necessary materials and tools:
The first step is to prepare the boards - soak them with a moisture-resistant primer, which will protect the wood from premature rotting.
The basis of the gate - the frame can be wooden or metal. The choice depends on the type of design and the preferences of the performer. For sliding gates is being manufactured metal carcass, for swing doors - at your own discretion.
Sequence of work:
DIY garden gates: video
Let's look at the procedure for creating a gate using a tension mesh. The dimensions of the future structure are: width - 98 cm, length - 142 cm.
Step-by-step progress of work:
Garden arches are often used to frame a path, as in this case, or they can be used to decorate the entrance to the garden. Installed alternately, the arches emphasize the calm and comfort of the alley. Of course, if the size allows. Sometimes these structures serve as symbolic boundaries of plots. If the arch is not passable, a bench installed under the arch will look very cozy. Here you can relax pleasantly, especially under the shade of blooming greenery.
Arches are made from different materials, from solid ones made of stone and brick, to simple airy structures made of reinforcement rods. Let's look at the last option.
In general, you take the mesh, cut the canvas to size and secure the edges with wire. The most modern and convenient way, is to secure the edges with a wire spiral with locking pins.
We need a combined gabion, which will consist of three parts. Two standard boxes and a smaller one between them (the support will be attached there). But you can make one large gabion with a recess.
For the arch itself we will need 4 two-meter beams, two 80cm cross beams, slats for the grooves and two sheets of galvanized mesh, two meters long and half a meter wide.
Now in order:
Arches are created for climbing plants, no matter what you make it from, so you don’t have to worry too much if the design turns out to be less than ideal. Then all you have to do is choose plants for the arch.
The simplest and most maintenance-free are ivy and grapes. Ivy, this evergreen, unpretentious and frost-resistant, so it will decorate your arch all year round. True, ivy grows quite slowly, so only after a few years it will be possible to admire the result. If you don't want to wait, plant grapes, there are plenty decorative varieties, for example, girlish, its leaves are very beautiful in autumn or Coignier, with beautiful carved leaves.
