In today's project We will create a tape clamp that will allow you to compress parts of various shapes when gluing, which is usually difficult to do using standard bars or a pipe clamp. Want to make a picture frame? No problem, use the tape clamp!
You can independently and at minimal cost make a tape clamp for use on wooden frames, fittings, round objects, hexagons, octagons, n-gons and press objects of any size!
For the project you will need a 1.9 cm thick hardwood board measuring 10 by 25 cm, a 0.5 cm thick fibreboard measuring 12.7 cm by 51 cm, a 0.64 cm and 0.95 cm hardwood pin (eg oak, do not use poplar or pine), 16 x 0.95 cm high and 10 cm long hex bolt (or rod) and full thread, 16 0.95 cm high T-nut, hex nut # 8, three meters or stronger polyamide cord 1.9 cm wide, four sliding fasteners 1.9 cm wide, and wood glue. The tools you will need are a cutting machine with a table, a band saw and drilling machine.
A band clamp consists of several jaws, a band that wraps around the jaws, and a tension mechanism that tightens the band around the jaws to clamp them onto the workpiece.
For a rectangular frame, you will need three jaws to hold the three corners, and a stationary jaw and tensioner for the fourth corner.
To make corner jaws, cut a 10 cm diameter circle from a 1.9 cm thick piece of hardwood. Drill a 0.3 cm diameter hole in the center. Cut 12 cm by 12 cm squares from 0.5 cm thick fibreboard (effectively , the thickness of the slab is slightly thinner), and also drill holes with a diameter of 0.3 cm through their centers. Using nails, center the fiberboards and glue the block of boards together. The edges of the fiberboard should be aligned as shown in the photo.
After the glue has dried, print and cut out the drill template 1, and stick it onto the square block using rubber cement. Drill 0.6 and 0.3 cm diameter holes. Use a band saw to cut the resulting block into quarters, and cut off the jaw corners (2.54 by 2.54 cm square) on each piece. The incision will go through the 0.95 cm diameter holes as designed. Finally, deburr each piece.
Cut eight 2.85 cm long pieces from a 0.95 cm thick hardwood dowel. Use an oak dowel, pine or poplar is too soft. Glue the resulting pins to the half-holes with a diameter of 0.95 cm. The pins act as “pivot” jaws to accommodate the clamping joints, which are not located at an angle of 90 degrees.
Using 0.6cm thick hardwood dowel, cut eight 2.85cm long pieces and glue to the top/bottom holes in the fibreboard. These pins will hold the pressure tape. There should be enough space between these pins and the round edge of the hardwood piece to thread the tape through.
Sand sandpaper and clean the edges and front sides the four corner jaws you just made. Set them aside.
Start with a 7.62 x 10 cm piece of 1.9 cm thick hardwood. Cut 1.2 cm on each side along the 10 cm long side. Cut each cut header in half - use tape or hand saw! You will need three pieces of 1.9 cm thick hardwood: one piece measuring 7.62 by 7.2 cm (depending on the gap between the saw teeth cutting machine), and two blanks measuring 1.2 by 3.7 cm.
Cut two pieces measuring 7.62 by 10 cm from 0.5 cm thick fiberboard.
Now glue together a block of blanks (fiberboard - hardwood board - fiberboard) as shown in the diagram and photo. I used small coins stacked on top of each other and taped together during the gluing process to create a groove for the clamp strip. After 15-20 minutes, remove the coin separator before the glue completely hardens.
After the glue has dried, attach template 2 to the top and side of the block; Drill holes in the top and inside the side as shown on the template.
Using a band saw, notch the stationary jaw and cut 0.95cm diameter holes as indicated in step 1; Next, cut the block halfway along the line indicated on the template. Mark the two pieces as they fit together, because you need to line up the side holes! You have now created a fixed jaw and a movable tension slider.
Glue four 2.85 cm long pins (2 0.63 cm thick and two 0.95 cm thick) onto the stationary jaw as indicated in step 1. Sand the edges and pins.
Cut two 12.7 cm long pieces from the 0.95 cm thick pin. The pins should move smoothly back and forth through the moving part. If necessary, sand the pins (use a drill press as shown in the photo). Glue the pin blanks to the fixed jaw blank. Use the sliding slider to align the pins during the gluing process.
Install a 16 x 0.95 cm T-nut into the center hole of the movable slider, which faces the fixed jaw. You will need to drill a shallow 1.1cm hole around the center hole to accommodate the T-nut. Insert a 16mm threaded rod through the T-nut (or a 10cm long, fully threaded hex bolt). When the bolt or rod is screwed in, it will act against the fixed jaw and push the movable slider out. Press a #8 hex nut into the center hole of the stationary jaw so that the rod/bolt rotates against it, protecting the wood at the bottom of the hole as shown in the photo. You can fit a hex bolt handle to tighten the clamp, or use a 19mm wrench for this purpose.
Coat the corner jaws, the fixed jaw and the movable slider with varnish or polyurethane so that the wood glue does not stick to them and can be easily cleaned off. Do not paint the pins or holes in the slider; they can stick together!
Take 3 meters (or more) of strong 1.9 cm wide polyamide cord (tape) and four 1.9 cm wide sliding fasteners. Pass the cord through the fastener, the left side of the fixed jaw, the second fastener, then through the left groove of the movable slider, the left side fixed jaw, first fastener and three corner jaws. Follow similar steps for the right side. See photo above.
To adjust the length of the tape there is The best way, i.e. cam levers, compression screws, spring-loaded fasteners, etc. The easiest and cheapest way is still sliding fasteners. Improve the design yourself!
Always adjust the length of the tape before applying glue to the workpiece and allow it time to dry. Wrap the clamping band around the workpiece and align the jaws at the corners. Pull the tape tight on the left side and adjust the sliding fasteners. You can use masking tape on the sponges to prevent the glue from sticking to them. Make sure no glue gets on the pivot/tension pins or mechanism. Turn the bolt using a 19mm socket wrench to tighten the jaws against the workpiece. Make sure your piece remains flat and square and let the glue dry.
For rectangles, use three jaws plus one fixed jaw. For six-sided workpieces, use 5 jaws plus one fixed jaw. For n-third parties - a good idea for new brain project!
Thank you for your attention!
A clamp is a tool that allows you to fix a part during processing. Masters often use different kinds clamps in their work. Whether you are a carpenter or a metalworker, there is always a need to use it.
This device is available in different options, from universal to specialized. Relatively recently, a new modification has appeared: a quick-release clamp. Develops compression force up to 450 kg.
The task for all types is common - to fix the workpieces for processing or connecting to each other.
Like any other tool, clamps can be purchased at the store or made yourself. The second option is often chosen by professionals. It’s easier to come up with your own design than to look for an option for individual tasks.
Such devices are used to fix two objects (not necessarily the same size) at right angles, to connect them together in any way. These can be wooden blanks when gluing, or assembling using corners and confirmat.
However, most often, an angle clamp is used as a jig for welding metal parts at right angles.
For production you will need:
We weld the corners to the steel plates at a strictly 90° angle.
We attach a worm structure to each side by welding. This is the same corner with a welded-on thrust nut or thickening, in which a thread is cut in accordance with the collar pin. The width of the working gap is selected according to the potential workpiece.
IMPORTANT! If the range of sizes of the parts being processed is too wide, it is better to make several clamps. Too much movement of the knob does not contribute to a strong fixation.
A collar pin is screwed into the working nut, after which a stop is assembled at its end. As a rule, this is a structure of two metal washers of different sizes. The stop should rotate freely on the pin.
Experienced furniture makers, carpenters, metalworkers rightly believe that a clamp is no less important tool than a comfortable workbench, a well-balanced plane, or a set of razor-sharp Swedish steel chisels. The device can be bought or rented, but it is best to make a clamp yourself. In this case, there will be confidence that a simple device will not fail at the most crucial moment.
Structurally, a clamp is the simplest device that allows you to press a part, a workpiece, or several components into one whole for installing fasteners - self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts, rivets, or while the glue dries.
There are two main requirements for the design of a clamp, regardless of the design, material and size of the device:
There is enough a large number of all kinds of clamp schemes, and although the design of any clamp is primitive in essence, no one is trying to make a universal design that could be used in any situation. The device turns out to be very heavy, inconvenient and difficult to use.
Therefore, the dimensions and design of the device are selected based on the dimensions of the parts to be connected and the required pressing force. Conventionally, clamps are divided into three large groups:
In addition to classic ruler clamps, custom-made clamps of non-standard designs are widely used; most of them are manufactured to perform one or two operations of increased complexity.
For example, drilling to a great depth in an array of several boards, cutting or gluing timber in a shaped way at right or non-standard angles, welding parts of complex configurations. There are more than enough options, the best way to ensure the most high quality connection - this still means making a clamp of the desired size and shape.
The easiest way to make a clamp is from wooden plank and timber. Wood is a fairly affordable material, so if you mark the parts correctly and use the proper tools, you can make a clamp of any level of complexity without much effort.
To make a wooden clamp, you will need the following tools and accessories:
All other operations can be done using hand tools. Of course, you can also drill holes and cut grooves using hand drill and a hacksaw, only achieve the required quality and manufacturing accuracy using hand tools It will be very difficult.
The design of the simplest wooden clamp looks like the Latin letter F. The vertical and upper horizontal strips are one whole - a fixed guide connected by a stop of one of the jaws. The central bridge of the letter F is the movable or mating part of the jaws, which is driven by the lead screw. The third part of the clamp with the drive screw is manufactured in a removable version. The clamp can be rearranged along the length of the guide bar; the distance between the jaws can be made smaller or larger, as long as the length of the base rail allows.
The general view of the clamp is shown in the photo.
First you need to make a guide rail. Larch or spruce board is suitable for these purposes. All other parts of the clamp can be made from any wood, except soft varieties - poplar, linden, birch.
Important! For the manufacture of any fixtures and auxiliary equipment, only defect-free wood is used. If there is none, then it is best to make a clamp from ordinary plywood with a thickness of 15-20 mm.
The base strip is cut to the length of the future fixture. The supporting stationary part of the clamp jaws bears the lion's share of the load, so it is best to make the guide from the strongest wood or use a little trick.
By side end the slats cut out a semicircular groove into which a steel rod with a diameter of 8-10 mm is placed. On one side, the end is bent around the end; on the other end, the rod is connected to a fixed jaw with a nut screwed onto a pre-cut thread.
The fixed part of the jaws is glued to the guide bar with wood glue; after the glue has dried, the supporting surface is carefully cut at an angle of 90° to the guide bar. This part can be made glued, or the mounting groove can be cut using a hand-held circular saw.
The mating or movable part of the jaws is cut out together with the support for the screw from one block. Next, you need to make U-shaped cuts in both blanks, allowing you to fit the parts onto the guide bar. After removing the burr, the workpiece is placed in a package in a drilling machine and a hole is drilled for the lead screw.
If you plan to use the clamp quite intensively, then you need to press a brass tube into the hole for the screw and make a sliding bearing. Otherwise, the lead screw will quickly break the hole by 2-5 mm, which will make the tool unsuitable for work.
A wooden clamp is convenient to use if you need to apply a little pressure to secure a package of several planks or glue two parts. If you plan to process timber or boards with carpentry tools, a plane or a grinder, then it is best to make a clamp for fixing the material with a metal guide.
The process of making a clamp from wood and steel is as follows:
All that remains is to assemble the clamp, the rearranged part is drilled under the fixing bolt, the bolt or pin is installed and tightened with a nut. At the end of the assembly, you need to make two or three idle runs to settle the walls and facilitate the rotation of the screw.
In 40% of cases, work in a carpentry or furniture workshop requires the use of long clamps to tighten entire sets or packages of planks, form furniture panels, table tops and door leaves. The process of making clamps for screeding needs is practically no different from a conventional wooden F-shaped device.
Unlike other device designs, the clamp for the screed is made of solid timber, with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and a length of at least 100 cm. A series of holes are drilled in the guide bar from the timber on a machine to rearrange the mating part of the jaws.
In addition, you will need three blocks of oak or beech to make a fixed support with a lead screw and two parts of the jaws - rearrangeable and movable.
An installation groove is cut on the reciprocal adjustable support and a hole is drilled into which a nut is pressed under the mounting bolt. The distance between the supports can be made larger or smaller if the sponge is moved to the next hole and secured with a bolt.
A small device, very reminiscent of a tightening type of clamp, can easily be made from ordinary suit hangers. Wooden base hangers are made from two identical halves of a trapezoidal shape.
The first step to making a clip from a hanger is to fold the two halves of the hanger into one bag and clamp it in the vise of a drilling machine.
Without opening the machine vice, you will need to make four holes with a diameter of 8 mm. You get two blanks, each of which has a pair of through holes. All that remains is to make a clamp; to do this, you need to cut off two studs with M8 threads, each 25 cm long. The studs can be glued into one of the halves or a symmetrical version can be made, as in the photo.
The clamp can be used to make a fixing device for gluing boards, holding pipes, or tightening a package of several planks.
Except classic options carpentry clamps and clamps; when working with furniture and wood materials, it is necessary to use small-sized clamps. One of these devices is C-clamp, made of wood, photo.
Before making a clamp, you need to find a suitable piece of wood. C-shaped clamps require very strong wood, so acacia, elm or steppe oak are used for their manufacture. The U-shaped body is cut out with a grinder. At total size housing 100x100 mm, the width of the sides must be at least 2.5 cm.
In one of the sidewalls you need to make a through hole with a diameter of 12 mm, into which two steel nuts, M8 or M6, are pressed. The easiest way is to screw the nuts onto the threaded rod, coat them with glue and insert them into the hole. You need to make a few gentle blows with a mallet so that the nuts fit into the through hole with a slight tension. All that remains is to make the handle, and the C-shaped clamp is ready.
Most metalwork and carpentry clamps are made of metal, most often steel or aluminum alloys; there are only two reasons for such selectivity:
To make metal clamps, you will need welding equipment, a grinder and a regular electric drill and jigsaw.
The most logical thing would be to make a clamp in which the guide beam or wooden strip is replaced with a square profile pipe. A meter clamp can be made from a 20x20 mm square, for a two-meter clamp you will need a 30x30 mm profile. The use of a tubular square profile makes it possible to make the structure very rigid without “stretch” and shrinkage, as is the case with lumber.
The easiest way is to make a long clamp according to classic scheme. Stationary, movable and adjustable parts are made of thick plywood.
Each part consists of two halves, which are cut out with a jigsaw and bolted together on a long square pipe. The lead screw can be made from two parts of a threaded rod and a regular piece of reinforcement.
Instead of wood, you can use a regular reinforcing bar with a cross-section of 8-10 mm. To make a clamp body from reinforcement, you will need to cut two blanks 65 and 55 cm long. The rods are heated at blowtorch and bent on a steel mandrel at a right angle according to the drawing.
The bent workpieces are welded into one L-shaped structure; the spout and linear sections of the reinforcement are necessarily connected by welding.
The next step is to make a stand for the lead screw from a 20 cm piece, to which a nut is welded. If the clamping force on the clamp is more than 50 kg, then the stand can be made bent or reinforced with an additional strut.
The G-hull design is also called screw press for the enormous force that can be obtained using a lead screw. Making a G-clamp is quite simple. To do this, you need to cut body blanks from thick metal with a grinder, at least 7-8 mm thick.
The body is welded using the letter P. On the top shelf you need to make a hole for the nut, then screw it onto the lead screw and install it in place of the weld. A small piece of metal is placed on the bottom shelf - a table, which is pressed with an unscrewed screw. You just need to make a few welding points or seams to weld the table and nut, and the clamp is ready.
An important part of any clamp is the lining installed under the supporting surfaces of the clamp. This is done to achieve two goals:
It is best to make the gasket from ordinary birch plywood or soft wood with an unsanded surface.
Reliably fixing steel wire on a round workpiece, for example, is considered a very difficult task. rubber pipe or the head of the fitting. Structurally, such a device consists of a double body and a winding pin.
The wire is wrapped around the pipe and hooked onto a pin with a bolt head. In 2-3 turns with the key, the wound one-and-a-half loop is tensioned to the desired state. All that remains is to turn the housing to twist the wire on the hose into several turns and cut off its ends.
The use of specialized clamps remains the only option today possible way collect any rectangular or square designs made of wood and metal with a perfectly set right angle.
For example, a system of ready-made triangles that cover the planes of the joining sides and firmly hold them in the desired position until the fasteners are installed or welding is completed.
A right angle, as a rule, does not pose a particular problem when working with clamps; it is much more difficult to make an angle of any size. To solve such problems, you need to make an adaptation to the clamp, as in the photo.
At the core additional device An ordinary pine block with a right angle sector cut out in the center is used. The second detail is the usual right triangle, which can be made from spruce or pine slats.
A through hole with a diameter of 5-6 mm is drilled at the top of the sector corner. It is the hole that allows the triangle to swing and change the angle of inclination of the clamp by 3-7 degrees.
It is much easier to connect two parts at right angles if you secure them in a corner clamp. In the simplest case, the device consists of two guides from cut profile pipe or steel angle.
The guides must be set using a square at an angle of 90° and connected with additional sheet metal overlays.
To ensure that the workpieces do not fall out of the device during operation, two G-shaped clamps are additionally installed on each of the guides.
Sometimes when working with wood, clamps are required, with which you can fix or hold a part to a work table or place within just a few seconds.
In order to make a quick clamp, you will need wooden boards or plywood 16-18 mm thick. Initially, the tracing paper of the parts is transferred to wood and cut out using a jigsaw. In the driven parts, you will need to make cuts to fit the mating part.
At the marked points of the axes you need to make holes with a diameter of 20 mm.
Hinge axles are cut out of a round blank, ground and pressed into the holes. The result is a clamp design that is somewhat reminiscent of scissors. The drive uses a standard lead screw with a diameter of 6 mm.
In a similar way, you can make a clamp for fixing particularly small parts. You will first need to mark and cut out two halves of a device similar to tweezers or a medical clamp from OSB or plywood.
The crescent-shaped blanks are connected to each other using a wooden axis, so a hole of the appropriate diameter must be made in each of the parts of the clamp. For the clamp body, you can use ash or spruce; the axis must be made of a harder material - oak or beech.
Using a reinforcing rod 50-60 cm long and 8 mm in diameter, you can make a very strong and at the same time lightweight frame for universal use.
The design is based on a support wood block from hard wood. Block dimensions 150x50x30mm. Dimensions may vary depending on the thickness and bending radius of the reinforcing bar. A hook from a piece of reinforcement can be bent with a heavy hammer on a steel pipe. The bend must be done so that the bent reinforcement is flat.
One of the most interesting unusual designs of clamps uses a thick belt made of polyester fabric as a strength element. A band clamp is used where it is necessary to tighten several parts evenly.
To make a tape clamp, you need to make corner elements and a device for tensioning the polyester belt. Three corners are cut out of ordinary pine using printed tracing paper. The fourth element, the tension device, is made of two blocks and a tension screw.
The tape is passed around the block; if you unscrew the screw with a wrench, the distance between the blocks increases, and the belt of the device is tensioned, pressing all four blocks to the part.
Often, a part or workpiece in a clamp needs to be fixed quickly, and the clamp must be made without unnecessary movements. For example, when drying or painting a batch of panels or frames. For these purposes, it is best to make a specialized device with cam clamps, photo.
The difference between this device is that instead of a traditional lead screw, plywood eccentrics are installed on the vertical jaws of the clamp.
To do this, you must first make a cut along the thickness of the eccentric on wooden racks.
The idea of a telescopic clamp is based on a set of pipes that fit into each other with minimal clearance, like a folding fishing rod, and a set of ring clamps with a screw lock.
A ring is cut from each pipe, to which a metal block with a thread is welded. A wrapped screw or bolt secures the pipe located inside, allowing the entire structure to be clamped into one extended rod.
In addition to clamps, two-shelf universal clamps are widely used for fixing glued parts of complex configurations, photo.
The idea of a clamp - a clamp - is borrowed from a bookbinding press; the dimensions and number of clamps are selected depending on the size of the part.
The lack of reliable fixation remains one of the problems that one has to face when assembling and gluing a shield from several wide and flat strips. It will not be possible to make an assembly even from five or six glued strips and tighten the material with ordinary long clamps; with the slightest increase in force, the shield bends in an arc.
The solution to the problem is a device with four clamps, photo.
The panel is fixed with two pairs of clamps. At the ends of each pair you need to make a cross-shaped clamp from a nut and metal plates. A height-adjustable hinge is installed at the opposite end of the fastening. The lead screw of each clamp rests against a wooden plate. It is enough to make a few turns of the screw so that a pair of bars firmly compresses the parts to be glued.
If there is no special mounting cradle, parts of complex configurations are not so easy to attach to flat surface workbench. In this case, to process a wooden part of a complex spatial structure, it is best to make a clamping box.
The design is quite simple to make:
The box allows you to use clamps to hold any, even the most complex part. If you plan to use powerful power tools to process it, you also need to make a clamp or clamp for the box-shaped base to secure the device to the table.
A serious problem with all wooden coffee tables has been and remains the low lateral rigidity of the frame; even without a load, the tabletop often has a small but extremely unpleasant play.
You can fix the problem by installing a homemade clamp or tension spring. Two planks or blocks of wood are connected to each other by a long metal bracket.
The device can be made with a screw clamp or self-clamping. In any case, the bars will strengthen and fix the frame with the legs, thereby eliminating the existing play.
Sometimes you have to look for improvised means to hold when carrying, but more often when drilling or processing parts and objects round section. The simplest version of the clamp can be made from a ring of PVC pipe.
It is enough to drill two through holes, insert a couple of pieces of reinforcement and cut the wall of the ring in one place. The device is designed for a certain diameter of the part, so you will have to make a whole set of clamps to work.
Working tools and clamps should first of all be stored in a specially designated place. Instead of a pile of tools, from which it is difficult to find and select the necessary device, it is best to make several split racks or shelves. In this case, it will take only a couple of minutes, and not half a day, as before, to quickly select several clamps that are most suitable in size and design.
Often in carpentry or assembly wooden structures There is not enough time to make full-fledged clamps and clamps. Then ingenuity and experience come to the rescue.
For example, a round workpiece can be fixed using several rings stuffed onto the frame.
Reinforcing rod or water pipe can be clamped using an improvised clamp made from several bars and tape.
A regular trunk locking cord will help you tighten a set of a dozen wooden slats like a band clamp.
The clamp is an auxiliary tool , which is used to fix the boards when they are connected in a given position. The clamp is also suitable for holding boards while sawing them, for routing hacksaw blade, connections of various elements. Parts that require machining can be inserted into the tool. Then, using a movable element, they are clamped with jaws and begin to work. To securely hold parts in the desired position, it is recommended to use two or more clamps.
Homemade clamps are often made of metal or wood, and in terms of their characteristics they are not much inferior to purchased, factory-assembled ones. Since the design of the clamping device is simple, it will not be difficult to understand the principle of its operation in order to make it yourself.
Before starting work, you will need to prepare the necessary materials. For the base of the structure, a steel sheet one centimeter thick, or any even trim of the same thickness, is suitable. The length of the workpiece is arbitrary, but they try to choose it taking into account the working distance of the clamp.
Main materials of manufacture:
A drawing is being drawn up. The future body of the tool is marked on the workpiece material, which in appearance resembles the letter “C”. Instead of a steel sheet, you can use a section of profiled pipe, bent in the shape of the letter “C”. There are no special requirements for the thickness of the workpiece, but the design must be reliable. The choice of length is made taking into account the dimensions of the working area and the parts being processed.
After marking is applied, the part is cut out of metal. At home, small pieces can be cut using a grinder. But when making clamps of large dimensions, it is recommended to use a gas cutter or an acetylene torch. The next stage is processing and polishing the workpiece. All sharp edges and sagging formed when working with gas welding equipment are knocked off with a file, and the surface is sanded with sandpaper. This must be done so that when clamping the workpieces, you do not cut yourself on sharp edges.
Having prepared long bolts M 8, M 10, proceed to fastening the moving element. Why are nuts welded on one side of the workpiece under the selected bolts? If there are no bolts, you can select hexagons or steel rods of the required length with pre-cut threads.
At the inner working end of the screw, a flat, even part is welded, on which the function of the jaws is assigned. On the reverse side of the screw, a lever is attached by welding from scraps of a stud. Its presence will speed up the process of clamping workpieces , further reducing the amount of effort applied. This completes the assembly of the clamp with your own hands.
When making corner tools for furniture assembly, it is important to accurately maintain a right angle of 90°. The main materials available are angles with steel strips. To work you will need:
The corner clamp is the most difficult to manufacture, but when carrying out some types of work you cannot do without it. On initial stage Corners are welded to the steel plates at right angles, and nuts are attached to each corner, which will serve to create a worm-type structure. Another option is to drill a hole in the corner and cut it using a tap. internal thread. The width of the working gap is selected taking into account the size of potential workpieces, but too large a stroke of the clamping wheel reduces the strength of their fixation.
For processing parts various sizes It is recommended to prepare several clamps!
The stud is screwed into the welded nut. At its end, a stop is assembled from metal washers of various diameters, which should rotate freely when the pin rotates. WITH reverse side The driver drills a hole for a metal rod. Used as a lever, it will transmit more force, so it will hold workpieces more reliably.
The most popular is a wooden quick-release clamp, but a tool of a similar design can also be made of metal. Despite the simplicity of the design, it is very convenient when performing various tasks.
The presence of two identical clamps expands the scope of their application!
For assembly you will need to prepare the following materials:
First, two studs of the same diameter with threaded threads are prepared. They must be 200 mm long. The nuts are matched to the threads of the studs. Two slats are prepared, preferably from hardwood. Best choice there will be oak, beech, birch, ash. The slats are adjusted to the same size. To do this, the excess length is sawed off and the cut is sanded. After this, two holes are drilled in each of the slats with a small tolerance. Moreover, the locations of the holes on each of the workpieces must match perfectly, and their diameter must correspond to the diameter of the studs.
Strips of plywood can be glued to the surface of the slats. They are adjusted to the size of the wooden blanks and holes are drilled. The studs are inserted into the resulting holes and securely fixed with nuts on one of the rails on both sides. To prevent material from pushing through, washers are placed under the nuts. This bar will always be stationary, but the other one will be able to move freely along the guides in the form of pins.
Another bar is installed. To do this, thread it through the studs and push it into place. The clamping is carried out using ordinary nuts and an open-end wrench, but for convenience and increased performance it is necessary to install wing nuts. Check the movement of the fastener; if it is difficult or additional adjustment of parts is required, or other defects are found, then they are eliminated. The work on assembling the wooden clamping device can be considered completed; all that remains is to test it in action.
Properly assembled clamping devices allow secure fastening wooden parts when carrying out carpentry work. The designs of the listed types of fasteners are popular and are so simple that they can be made independently from scrap materials using a minimum number of tools.
It will not hurt a novice craftsman to know that in the first stages it is unlikely that he will be able to get by with just a hammer or saw. Subsequently, you will have to resort to using a vice or quick-release clamp to fix the workpiece or glue individual fragments. Making it yourself is quite simple. There is no single clamp that is sufficiently universal to satisfy all needs when performing various types work.
They are various styles, models and sizes. So you can stock up various models, which will always come in handy. A master can purchase several models of Assistent clamps, and besides, they are not that expensive. If a person does not want to pay for such a purchase, he can make a wooden or pipe clamp with his own hands. Wood models are very popular, you can make them yourself. This model is easy to use and easy to adjust.
Model F is a wooden clamp that has been slightly improved. It uses a maple plank with a width of 5 cm and a thickness of 0.6 cm. The design also contains a metal rod on which a thread is applied. To make a pen, you need to take wooden blank. Hardwood without defects is suitable for this.
The moving parts must be well dried in order to slide smoothly on the bar. There should be two nuts on the rod. They are located at the end and then tighten against each other. Thanks to this, they do not separate during use. You can use a separate lock nut or simple model with permanent lock. And two more nuts are needed to secure the clamping pads along with the washer from the outside.
It is permissible to use a locknut and other fastening methods. Double products jam each other. This is the most reliable and easiest way. It's also the cheapest. It is important to leave some space for the screw so it can rotate freely.
Using a hacksaw, cut the threaded rod to 30 cm. First, you need to make an additional cut into a block measuring 9 by 7 cm, if we're talking about about loose ends. Once all the corners are cut, you need to drill a hole and insert the tightening bolts.
You need to make sure the holes are large enough to fit the bolt head. The threaded rod is fixed in the upper area of the fixed end. The hole needs to be large enough to fit the nut into the rod. Install the fixed end when intending to drill holes. When assembling, you need to make sure that the ends are secured at right angles. Thanks to this, the threaded rod will become parallel to the rod.
Before assembly, it is necessary to make a hole where the nut and threaded rod pass through. Do this in the same block position as for the fixed end. You need to make sure the hole is wide and deep enough to accommodate the nuts. The lower area is small, and therefore it is difficult to insert enough screws here. This is necessary to prevent curling.
Shelf dimensions are determined according to the desired length and available equipment. After this, the system components are sawed until required size, cut out the pads for the sponge and drill the necessary holes, glue the handles with a five-minute epoxy resin. When the screw shaft is jagged with a file or sandpaper, fix the handles with epoxy glue.
A lightweight, homemade clamp is made on the basis of a metal rod. These clamps, although not as powerful as steel clamps, still provide the ability to create strong clamping pressure for any adhesive. Accordingly, their service life is quite impressive. The rod can be made to any length. The only thing you need to remember is that there should not be a threaded rod running along the entire length of the main rod. The clamp head does not need it at this end, making assembly much easier. Clamping jaws are made of plywood.
The lock nut is an element that secures the clamping jaw to the rod. However, it should not be under pressure. The nut can be cut with a regular hacksaw. It is fixed to the heel with epoxy resin. The recess should be quite wide and suitable for the washer and deep so that the nut and washer can turn without problems.
Here you need to use a 35 mm nut, since you need to drill a hole 38 mm in diameter with a bottom and 15 mm in depth. After drilling the recess, a through hole is made. This is required for the clamping screw. Fix the movable head in a fixed position and mark the places where the hole should be located.
Square blanks of 25 mm are made and 100 mm are cut for each handle. Mark the central part and drill out a fragment of 10.5 mm 60 mm using a drill. As an analogue, you can drill a fairly wide hole and then cover it with epoxy resin. But this method is considered not reliable enough.
Grind the workpiece to make it more comfortable handle and glued to this clamping screw. Proceed to the main assembly. This is a simple task to apply the film to the stationary head. The lock nut is strengthened and end caps are made. They should prevent the head from slipping off the rod. Therefore, it is advisable to screw a small plate onto the heel. Thereby the nut will not slip out of place. This acts like a hook.
This device is not only useful, but also extremely simple. It must be remembered that cam clamps are fast-acting, but cannot guarantee great strength clamping parts. That's why they are used when relatively little cutting force is required. They are not suitable for working under high pressure, as is possible with a large clamp. But at the same time they are extremely easy to use.
A special template is used for preparation. It is needed to create curves. The template is made of metal, plastic or wood. It is used to tighten smooth curves. However, the cam mechanisms do not directly follow the French curve. The correct cam must have a profile, increasing the distance between the axis of rotation and constant speed. In this way it resembles a spiral drawn with a pencil.
