Polyurethane foam is a polyurethane foam sealant that is used in construction. The material hardens quickly and protects the base from aggressive impact environment. However, the foam itself is vulnerable to external factors. Putty is used to protect the material. The main thing is to know how to choose and apply the composition.
Purpose polyurethane foam– filling of spaces and openings. The service life of the material after application is 5 years. After this period, the foam is dismantled and a new composition is used. If this is not done, then the material will collapse, and in the voids there will be a favorable environment for the spread of mold and fungus. In addition, the mounting foam is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation. To prevent this from happening, the material must be protected. You can do this in several ways:
Application of sealing tape. The material will protect the foam from exposure to UV rays and degradation, but the product has a short operating period and is not intended for outdoor use.
Application of primer and similar compounds. Means provide waterproofing of the material, but do not protect against sunlight.
Puttying. The composition will provide protection of the foam from moisture, ultraviolet and other negative impact environment. Professionals also highlight other advantages of putty - affordable price and ease of use.
In addition, it is used acrylic paint, sealant, putty and other compounds, but such products will not provide reliable protection for the material if the excess has to be trimmed.
How to putty mounting foam - such a question arises among amateurs who first encountered such work. For this material, any putty is suitable. Professionals recommend choosing a composition based on where the material will be used - indoors or out. For this, a remedy for internal and external works, respectively.
If the repair is performed by a non-professional master with his own hands, he is advised to carefully familiarize himself with the algorithm for applying putty.
As already mentioned, if the work is carried out indoors, then the composition is used to internal works, and if outside, then for external. In addition, the thickness of the agent layer is taken into account. To mask small defects and protect the material, a thin layer of the composition is applied, 2 mm thick. For this, only putty is used. The variety doesn't matter. To fill voids, the depth of which is up to 15 cm, plaster is used before puttying.
You will also need a primer. The composition improves the adhesion of the material and finish coat. Professionals advise using an acrylic primer. This composition is suitable for all types of surface and has good characteristics.
For finishing works You will need a set of tools that includes:
stationery knife;
a set of spatulas for applying the product;
work gloves;
masking tape;
a container and a construction mixer (drill with mixer attachment) if a dry mix is \u200b\u200bused.
Surface preparation algorithm:
wait until the foam expands and hardens (the material dries in 12 hours, but to clarify the time it is recommended to carefully study the product packaging);
cut stationery knife protruding edges so that the surface becomes even (as in the photo below);
fix the masking tape on the surface that does not need to be finished;
fill voids with plaster;
clean the base from dust and other contaminants;
apply primer.
Putty on mounting foam is applied as follows:
Prepare the composition if a dry mix is \u200b\u200bused for puttying. Dilute the product with water. The amount of liquid for mixing the solution is indicated on the package.
Apply to foam. Thickness - 3-5 mm.
When the composition hardens, clean the surface. After that, treat the base with a primer.
Take a break to dry the primer. The hardening time is indicated on the packaging of the composition.
Apply finishing putty. Layer thickness - 1 mm. When the material has hardened, strip it sandpaper with small chips. Suitable material P 120 or P 150. Then treat the surface with a primer. After the composition has dried, finish and remove the masking tape from the untreated surface.
If it is required to putty the window slopes, then the joints and putty will require additional protection, which will be provided by a paintable sealant. Instructions for using this tool:
treat the surface with putty;
dismantle the material from the seam 3-4 mm from the edge;
fill the resulting void with sealant.
Mounting foam is also used for car repairs. The material fills the voids that are formed as a result of stripping rust. Most often, mounting foam is used when repairing an arch. The material also needs the protection that putty can provide. In addition, the composition will even out the surface. To putty a car arch, you can use any tool. As a starting composition, professionals recommend using fiberglass material. Used for finishing universal remedy or you can putty the surface with an aluminum-filled product. After the composition has hardened, the base is cleaned and primed. Then the paint is applied and the work is completed.
Calculation of putty consumption per 1 sq. m of mounting foam is indicated on the packaging. Usually it is 0.6-1 kg per 1 m2 when applying a layer 1 mm thick. Therefore, the thicker the layer, the more putty will be required. It is necessary to perform an accurate calculation of the funds, since the finished composition cannot be stored.
If we talk about how much putty for mounting foam costs, then it all depends on the product. For example, the price of a latex composition is 200 rubles per 1 kg. Dry mix is much cheaper. The price for 25 kg of funds is about 250 rubles. The cost of putty also depends on the manufacturer. The more popular the brand, the higher the price of the product.
The video in this article demonstrates how to properly putty foam.
Puttying the mounting foam is an obligatory stage of repair before finishing. Neglect of such work will lead to the destruction of the material and the appearance of an aggressive bacterial environment.
To find out how to protect the mounting foam, the first step is to take into account the conditions of its operation. The popularity of polyurethane sealants has spread not only to facade work, but also on interior decoration premises - respectively, and the methods of protecting the cured foam are quite diverse
The consumer characteristics of mounting foam for sealing extended linear gaps make one sincerely perplexed - how they managed without it before, before the era of advanced chemistry. The basic properties of foam sealants include:
In addition to direct installation tasks - that is, sealing gaps, filling seams, insulating dissimilar joints, etc. - the hardened foam has good thermal insulation and acoustic protection.
When installing window frames from wood and plastic, pay attention to the flammability class of the sealing mixtures used, it can be fire-fighting, combustible and self-extinguishing.
With the labeling of the combustible properties of dried polyurethane foam, some manufacturers show a certain cunning. They write on packages, cans and adapter tubes only the digital name of the flammability class, without verbal explanation. The average consumer may not be aware that:
The greatest harm to polyurethane sealants is caused by direct sunlight. The influence of atmospheric precipitation and mechanical vibrations also has a bad effect on the durability of the treated joint, but to a lesser extent. Before sealing the mounting foam, you need to make sure that the additional protection to ultraviolet.
Some repair tips seem obvious, but the truth does not fade from repetition. Before puttying the mounting foam or tinting it upper layer, wait for the composition to dry completely. Make sure that it tightly fills the entire installation opening, that there are no gaps and delaminations, unevenness, etc. Deep gaps and cracks should not be protected from the sun, but re-sealed. Most polyurethane sealants turn yellow or yellowish when dry, this is normal.
Under influence sun rays any mounting foam decomposes. Initially, it looks like a darkening of the material, after which it becomes brittle and crumbles from the cracks, like leaves in the wind. More precisely, even the wind is not required to destroy the sealant scorched by the sun. The process of "ultraviolet destruction" of mounting foam takes from 1 to several years - depending on the thickness of the layer, the angle of incidence of its rays, the quality of the foam itself and the thoroughness of its application, etc.
Of course, even the maximum four years is an unacceptably short period for overhaul. And the replacement of windows, doors, ventilation, etc. must be no less durable than installation shower tray - with your own hands it makes sense to create comfort for decades to come. When the preparation of the outer layer of foam is completed, we proceed to its processing using one of the selected methods:
Mounting foam has a lot of advantages - it is both a sealant, a heat insulator, and a retainer. High-quality polyurethane foam does not change its properties for decades, but only on one condition - if you cover it from ultraviolet rays! What could be better in this case than puttying foam?
If everyone who has ever dealt with construction or repair is familiar with the consumption rates of cement, putty, gypsum and other building materials, then the consumption rate of mounting foam is the same question for backfilling even for many specialists. On two absolutely identical objects, builders can use completely different volumes of polyurethane!
There may be several reasons:
If we take into account all the factors, we can get some average flow rate. If the manufacturer indicated a volume of 60 liters on the cylinder, in fact this means that you can use up a maximum of 48 - the rest may simply remain inside the cylinder due to a lack of gas that pushes the material out.
With a mounting joint width of 20 mm to 70 mm and a depth of up to 125 mm, the foam consumption per 1 meter of the joint will vary from 13 cm 3 to 100 cm 3. It turns out that 1 meter of the seam can go from 1/5 of the balloon to 1 ¾. To cut costs, you can use joint fillers such as Styrofoam. In some cases it is even necessary!
If we talk about consumption per 1 m 2, then the costs will increase significantly - by square meter area goes from 1 balloon to 5, depending on the thickness of the layer. Depending on the goals, you can also reduce costs due to the cheapness of the material, when quality and characteristics are not particularly important to you. For example, for soundproofing, it makes no sense to spend money on high-quality foam, and the cheapest Chinese foam will cope with this. But if you decide to use foam as an adhesive, then it is better to choose the highest quality - in any case, the consumption in such cases is low.
Is it possible to putty mounting foam and how to putty it - there are answers to both of these questions! Foam can and should be protected with putty or plaster, and fortunately, these materials are good friends with each other. Plastering is necessary, first of all, where one of two conditions is required:
So, let's get to work.
The foam traditionally has a wave-like structure and when expanded, its excess sticks out in the most unusual positions. Puttying or plastering on such a surface will not work, so first trim the dried material (at least 7-12 hours after application). If plaster is used to protect the foam, then the seam must be further deepened by a few centimeters.
To protect a clean surface from stains, apply masking tape around the perimeter. The tape should be removed when the plaster has already been applied, smoothed and slightly dried.
Almost any mixture will suit you for work on polyurethane foam, but the mixture has proven itself best Rotband. Follow the instructions on the package, knead and carefully, using a spatula, apply the mixture to the foam.
When the material dries, the irregularities are overwritten construction mesh or sandpaper. Good polyurethane foam withstands pressure well, so you can not be afraid to use force, as when grouting ordinary plaster.
It is far from always advisable to spend money on the purchase of a plaster mixture and wages for workers. But you should still think about it - some methods are inexpensive, but no less effective than plaster. In addition, if the foam has a dense structure, it will have a rather nice appearance on a clean cut, which means that the “decorative” issue will not be so acute.
For cutting, it is best to use a foam hacksaw - it has special teeth that do not tear the material.
When this is inconvenient, use a regular knife with a sharp blade. After trimming the foam, try to wipe problem areas with protrusions with coarse-grained sanding paper. Then you can use regular paint, preferably white or light colors. Modern compositions have special pigments that provide additional protection from ultraviolet radiation, but even a completely ordinary floor paint in several layers will perfectly protect the foam from direct sunlight.
Roofing felt, metal sheets, boards - all this can be used to protect polyurethane foam. If decorative look you don’t care at all, and the foam is under a constant shadow, it can be left uncovered - air and moisture have practically no effect on it.
How to cover up mounting foam - a question that recent times occurs frequently. Various external factors lead to a deterioration in the condition of the mounting foam, which in some cases may not be able to cope with its intended purpose. Therefore, we will consider proven methods that will allow you to cover up mounting foam without special costs time and effort, but guarantee the quality and reliability that modern metal plastic windows.
How to cover mounting foam- reliable protection windowRehau for the long term
Mounting foam as a result of exposure to moisture, light and other factors after some time loses its qualities. Including, the foam will dry out, gradually gaining moisture. There should also be a violation of the features of thermal insulation. Therefore, experts recommend thinking ahead of time about slopes and foam incorporation with outer side and under the windowsill. Slopes in windows are of great importance - after all, they allow you to hide the presence of assembly seams, contributing to the long-term operation of the entire structure as a whole. First of all, one must define optimal material for slopes.
Dry mixes are the easiest option. The slope can be done using standard plaster. But for this option, the preparation of the wall for the material is initially required. In the presence of large gaps, a layer of mortar is required to be applied to the wall, using a special mixture. Among necessary funds of note are outdoor putty, gloves, a small knife, a trowel, water, and a mortar container.
How to cover mounting foam- a proven set of actions
Cut off the excess dried foam from the outside of the joints. When used for sealing putty, it is recommended to cut the mounting foam deep into a few millimeters for a thicker layer of sealant on the outside. Recommended Smooth surface frozen foam.
Next, putting on gloves, we prepare a sealant solution for outdoor work. To do this, we do not need a lot of solution, so it would be better to mix less, then you can add as needed. Instructions for preparing the solution are contained on the packaging of the material.
The mass of putty is applied with a knife or a trowel - we choose taking into account personal preferences and the place of embedding, we level the surface. After drying a very thin layer of putty, cracks may occur. To avoid such a nuisance, it is better to apply a solution layer of several millimeters - taking into account appearance the buildings.
In this way, it is possible to protect the mounting foam from exposure to the rays of the sun, which can lead to a destructive effect. Thanks to this, it is also possible to protect the foam from moisture, which, when penetrated from the outside, leads to the destruction of slopes and other elements of the connection. The aesthetics of the building are also improved.
The best effect of a white slope is achieved with the use of a water-based mixture for plastering. Work is carried out using special tools. Escarpment from plaster mixes will be a great choice for the outside.
Slopes from plastic panel
It is much easier to make a slope from a plastic panel. From a large panel according to the dimensions of the slope, pieces should be cut for 3 sides of the window. A special plastic rail secures the panel to the window.
Side panels are installed at an angle of 90-110 degrees relative to the window. Each panel is fixed to the wall, with mounting foam filling the gap between the old slope and the window - for better insulation. After the foam dries, we get rid of the dried residues. We close the resulting gap between the panel and the wall by tightly adjoining the F-shaped rail.
Plasterboard slopes are performed like plastic ones. Installation can be carried out in two ways - installation of prepared panels on a profile or gluing on glue. Thermal insulation is provided by insulated mineral wool. After installation, the plasterboard panels are treated with a primer. Next comes the painting. To ensure a completely even corner, a painting steel corner is glued to the drywall corner using putty.
All this proves the possibility of using various methods when finishing slopes of PVC windows. Today, plastic windows remain the preferred option, which become the key to excellent hydro and thermal insulation properties, durability and reliability. Usage plasterboard slopes contributes to the preservation of heat and resistance to moisture. But the plastering of slopes as a finish is outdated, given the rather weak protective properties, which are not enough for modern windows PVC.
How to cover mounting foam- help of professionals, confidence in every decision
Still, working with window and door structures requires some preparation and experience for the reliability and quality of the result. Therefore, for many, it is preferable to turn to professionals who can guarantee the declared result according to affordable prices- the company's website always provides data on services, detailed information can be clarified with managers. We cover up mounting seams and perform related work according to modern quality standards.
To find out how to protect the mounting foam, the first step is to take into account the conditions of its operation. The popularity of polyurethane sealants has spread not only to facade work, but also to interior decoration - accordingly, the methods for protecting cured foam are quite diverse.
The consumer characteristics of mounting foam for sealing extended linear gaps make one sincerely perplexed - how they managed without it before, before the era of advanced chemistry. The basic properties of foam sealants include:
In addition to direct installation tasks - that is, sealing gaps, filling seams, insulating dissimilar joints, etc. - the hardened foam has good thermal insulation and acoustic protection.
When installing window frames made of wood and plastic, pay attention to the flammability class of the sealing mixtures used, it can be fire-fighting, combustible and self-extinguishing.
With the labeling of the combustible properties of dried polyurethane foam, some manufacturers show a certain cunning. They write on packages, cans and adapter tubes only the digital name of the flammability class, without verbal explanation. The average consumer may not be aware that:
The greatest harm to polyurethane sealants is caused by direct sunlight. The influence of atmospheric precipitation and mechanical vibrations also has a bad effect on the durability of the treated joint, but to a lesser extent. Before sealing the mounting foam, you need to make sure that the additional protection is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.
Some repair tips seem obvious, but the truth does not fade from repetition. Before puttying the mounting foam or tinting its top layer, wait for the composition to dry completely. Make sure that it tightly fills the entire installation opening, that there are no gaps and delaminations, unevenness, etc. Deep gaps and cracks should not be protected from the sun, but re-sealed. Most polyurethane sealants turn yellow or yellowish when dry, this is normal.
Under the influence of sunlight, any mounting foam decomposes. Initially, it looks like a darkening of the material, after which it becomes brittle and crumbles from the cracks, like leaves in the wind. More precisely, even the wind is not required to destroy the sealant scorched by the sun. The process of "ultraviolet destruction" of mounting foam takes from 1 to several years - depending on the thickness of the layer, the angle of incidence of its rays, the quality of the foam itself and the thoroughness of its application, etc.
Of course, even the maximum four years is an unacceptably short period for a major overhaul. And the replacement of windows, doors, ventilation, etc. must be no less durable than installing a shower tray - with your own hands it makes sense to create comfort for decades to come. When the preparation of the outer layer of foam is completed, we proceed to its processing using one of the selected methods:
