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» Cuttings for grafting apple trees when and how. What novice gardeners need to know about pear grafting

Cuttings for grafting apple trees when and how. What novice gardeners need to know about pear grafting

For your information: Cuttings (scions) are segments or entire annual shoots that grew during the growing season, became woody and entered the winter. They are cut, stored, and then used for grafting.

The development of a fruit tree depends on the condition of the rootstock and scion. Therefore, appropriate requirements are imposed on the scion, as well as on the rootstock. The cutting (scion) taken for grafting from a healthy tree not damaged by diseases and pests must be strong and well-ripened.

Cuttings. Where is the best place to cut them?

On a note: Ripened shoots should be taken from the outer parts of the crown of mature trees, well illuminated by the sun. Such shoots are characterized by short internodes (gaps between the buds) and highly developed eyes in the leaf axils. They have a high ability to assimilate and perceive organic substances, which the cutting needs for its rapid fusion with the rootstock and the formation of new shoots.

Cuttings for cuttings are taken from fruit-bearing trees that have been tested for yield and grade.

On a note: You should not cut cuttings short, 8-10 cm; thin, crooked, damaged ones, from overgrown branches, as well as from “tops” are also not suitable.

You should not cut off the scion and shoots that have grown in dense areas and on the north side, or parts of the crown of which are woven into a neighboring tree, as well as from trees of unknown varieties.

Timely preparation of cuttings for grafting has great importance. Cuttings should be taken only from pure-quality mother plantings and from trees characterized by high productivity and stability. The cuttings should be 30-40 cm long, with well-developed growth buds. Thin, poorly formed shoots with underdeveloped buds are not suitable for grafting. In this case, it is better to use cuttings from the previous year’s growth, which has growth buds.

Cuttings. Procurement time

For winter and spring grafting, cuttings are prepared in the fall, after leaf fall, but before the onset of severe frosts. After frost-free winters, they can be harvested in the spring, before the buds swell.

On a note: Cuttings with open buds are not suitable for grafting.

For your information: cuttings are mainly prepared; It is not advisable to prepare cuttings for grafting stone fruit crops. Almost every year, annual shoots of stone fruit crops freeze. Cuttings from shoots with frozen (darkened) wood take root poorly or not at all. Therefore, cuttings of stone fruit crops should be harvested at the beginning of winter.

Cuttings. Rootstock

In grafting, the rootstock is important. Through root system The rootstock provides nutrition and water supply from the soil to the tree, and the scion supplies the rootstock with assimilation products produced by the leaves of the tree. This leads to mutual influence of the rootstock and scion.

Important: The stability of the tree, its durability, and general development, attitude to the soil and even productivity. Therefore, the rootstocks must be frost-resistant, resistant to excess and insufficient moisture, well adapted to the natural and climatic conditions of the area and firmly grow together with the varieties grafted to them (compatibility).

In gardening practice, there are many examples where some fruit varieties have poor fusion () with certain rootstocks and break off from them even during the fruiting period. To eliminate this drawback, trees are first grafted with those varieties that grow well on these rootstocks, and another variety is grafted onto them above the first graft.

To obtain rootstocks, local seed material is used. Rootstocks must reproduce well by seeds or vegetatively, have a strong root system, grow well with the varieties grafted to them and ensure the successful development of plants.

Based on the strength of growth of the varieties grafted on them, rootstocks are divided into vigorous and weak-growing (semi-dwarf, dwarf), according to the method of reproduction into seed and vegetative, and according to origin into wild and cultivated forms.

Not just certain breeds fruit trees, but sometimes even their varieties require certain rootstocks. For apple trees, the best rootstocks are from cultivars are seedlings of Antonovka, Anise and local resistant varieties.

To obtain rootstocks, you can use wild forest apple trees and seedlings of some local semi-cultivated apple trees. Grafted trees are well accepted on them, and as a result, productive, long-lasting trees are obtained.

A good rootstock for an apple tree is Chinese or plum-leaved apple (selected forms with a non-falling cup on the fruit). The Chinese plant has high frost resistance. Its seedlings do not need picking and develop a rich root system.

When growing dwarf fruit trees, a weak-growing paradise apple tree is used for rootstocks, which is propagated by layering. Trees grafted on them are characterized by short stature, begin to bear fruit early and produce bountiful harvests fruits with high taste and good appearance. Semi-dwarf trees can be obtained by using dusens with stronger growth.

For pears, the best rootstocks are wild pear seedlings. Trees on these rootstocks are characterized by winter hardiness and longevity. An ordinary rowan can also serve as a rootstock for a pear. In early spring You can find young red rowan trees in the forest, dig them up without damaging the roots before the leaves bloom and plant them in a five-liter bottle. Within a month, the tree will take root and it will be possible to vaccinate.

For rowan, rootstocks are seedlings of common rowan.

Seedlings of local varieties and forms or root shoots from them are considered good rootstocks for stone fruit crops.

On a note: You can use cherry plum as a rootstock for plums. The rootstock for dwarf plums is sloe, which has the greatest winter hardiness.

Material prepared by: horticulture specialist Buinovsky O.I.

The main indicator of this is discarded foliage. Therefore, it is advisable to make preparations for spring grafting no earlier than November. It’s possible even at the beginning of winter. Light frosts will not be a hindrance.

The point of such preparation is that the annual shoots, which are used for cutting cuttings, will not die in winter if severe frosts. Also, for good survival, the scion must be in a “dormant” state until grafting. And in the rootstock tree at the time of the procedure there should be active movement of sap. This can be achieved by preparing cuttings in advance.

Cutting secrets

Cuttings or scions are sections of one-year woody shoots. They need to be taken from varietal trees and shrubs tested for fertility. Then we will clearly know what to expect from the grafted plant. It is advisable to take cuttings for pinching from trees that undergo anti-aging pruning in a timely manner. They have stronger shoots and better developed growth buds.

It is advisable to cut scions from one-year-old branches. But if this is not possible, you can start with two-year-olds.

First of all, pay attention to the diameter of the shoot. It should be at least 6-7mm. This corresponds to the thickness a simple pencil. The length of the branch from which scions can be taken must be at least 40-50cm. If there is damage or stains on the shoot, it is better not to use it.

Our advice:

Spruce cuttings should be taken from a young tree with a small crown; it is better to choose branches that you plan to trim in the spring.

Timing for cutting cuttings for grafting

Another important nuance is the timing of cutting cuttings for different crops. First of all, we prepare scions from plants less resistant to frost - cherries, peach, apricot. This can be done as long as frost does not exceed 5-8°C. But cuttings from apple, cherry, plum, pear, quince, and rowan trees can be harvested at lower temperatures (up to 15°C). Therefore, the first preparations are carried out from the second ten days of November to mid-December (if severe frosts do not hit). For frost-resistant plants The whole of December will do, and even the beginning of January. An additional bonus will be the natural disinfection of the cuts. Since frosts will destroy mushrooms and many microorganisms.

Portrait of an ideal cutting for grafting

If you have decided where to get the scions, and November has already shown its harsh character, it’s time to get down to business.

  • A good cutting should be 30-40cm long, with cherries it can be longer - 50-60cm. With at least 4-5 well-developed growth buds.
  • There is no need to take cuttings from “fatty” shoots. The tops are distinguished by a greenish tint of the bark and longer internodes. They are located on strong branches and directed upward. Such a scion will take root, but will bear fruit poorly.
  • The scion should not be thin or crooked, short (less than 10-15cm). The core of the branch should be lively and greenish.
  • For a correctly prepared cutting, the cut is located just below the growth neck. The scion cut in this way takes root better.

How to store cuttings for grafting

Before sending the cuttings for storage, you need to sort them, tie them in bunches and attach labels with the name of the variety. It is advisable to prepare more grafting material than you need.

There are several proven ways to store scions.

“To preserve the cuttings until spring, the bud must be in a dormant state,” explains Pavel Nikolaevich Naumenko, agronomist of the private enterprise "Agrosvit" in the Kyiv region. – To do this, you need to place the cuttings in a room where the air temperature is not higher than 5-7 °C. This could be a cellar, basement, or even a refrigerator, but not a freezer.

Wrap the cuttings in a damp cloth or burlap and cellophane. Tie well to prevent moisture from evaporating. Check from time to time to see if mold has appeared. If yes, rinse them cold water and replace the fabric.

You can also store the scions in a cool room, dipping the cuts into sand, which must be periodically moistened.

These methods are more suitable for seed crops and grapes. For stone fruit plants they are not always successful. Since the air temperature in the cellar or basement gradually increases, the bud may awaken in the scions ahead of time. Such cuttings take root poorly.

Stone fruit plants

Scions of stone fruit plants need to be stored at an air temperature of minus 2-3°C. To create the appropriate conditions, you can use sawdust. It is recommended to place the tied bunches of cuttings in some container and cover them with wet sawdust in a layer of 10-15 cm. After this, freeze them. They place such a homemade “refrigerator” in the shade behind the house or barn, where they cannot penetrate Sun rays. The top is covered with dry sawdust to a depth of 40-50 cm and covered with cellophane, which will keep them from getting wet. This device will keep the cuttings in a “dormant” state until grafting. A few days before the procedure, the pile needs to be raked and the container with scions transferred to warm room for defrosting.

You can store the cuttings in a trench, the depth of which is 30-40 cm. Spruce branches are placed on the bottom, then scions wrapped in film or cellophane, and again a layer of spruce branches. The top of the hole is covered with earth, then with fallen leaves, straw or sawdust. When the snow falls, you can shovel it into the storage area.

In addition to protection from freezing and drying out, the cuttings need to be protected from the ubiquitous rodents. Fiberglass or fine mesh, which must be used to wrap the scions over cellophane, will help us with this. Experienced gardeners claim that no less effective protection Old nylon tights or stockings can serve.

In March-April, when the trees begin to awaken, you can begin grafting. The main conditions for this are the beginning of the movement of sap in the tree and the dormant bud of the scion.

Oksana SHAPOVAL

Photos depositphotos

Almost every gardener is faced with the need to graft fruit crops. And if you consider that the most popular tree in our gardens is the apple tree, then this particular crop is grafted most often.

But in order to successfully carry out this procedure, you must strictly adhere to several rules, which we will discuss below. And it is also important to choose the right escape with the right tree, this is the most important task for a beginning summer resident.

So, let’s find out together how to properly prepare apple tree cuttings for grafting in the spring.

A few words about the procurement process

How to prepare cuttings? If you have a desire to try to withdraw yourself new variety apple trees, which means that the preparation of the material should be taken very seriously and responsibly.

So let's find out what they advise experienced summer residents:

  • cuttings should be taken from trees that have good resistance to defects and a high yield;
  • to obtain such material, only well-ripened annual branches are selected;
  • It is best to cut sprouts from the outer parts of trees and shrubs, which are most illuminated by the sun's rays.

Usually, the best side culture is considered to be the one located in the south side. The fact is that such sprouts have well-formed internodes.

Important! The best cuttings are obtained from branches located in the middle tier. If you take cuttings from the top part, they will turn out to be too powerful for the scion, and from the lower part of the crown, the cuttings will turn out weak and with little growth.

It is also worth noting that if you plan to take cuttings from a cherry crop, it is important to take into account that you choose only annual sprouts that have fewer buds.

What does a quality cutting look like?

The main question that interests many summer residents without experience is what a good cutting looks like. And it’s easy to identify:

  • a high-quality scion blank has a length of 35 cm;
  • the thickness of such a fragment should not exceed the diameter of an ordinary pencil;
  • internodes should be short;
  • the kidneys should be clearly visible;
  • the number of kidneys must be at least 4;
  • A high-quality cutting can only come from a young and well-bearing crop; as a rule, the tree should not be more than 7 years old.

If you choose a cutting taking into account all the characteristics described above, then you will definitely get excellent material.

When planning to prepare such material, take note of a few recommendations from experienced summer residents, namely:

  • strong annual branches are used as material;
  • if you are cutting fragments from young crops whose crown is not yet fully formed, then you can use those branches that you plan to remove in the spring;
  • for future grafting manipulations, sprouts with defective buds or those that are not sufficiently developed are not suitable;
  • cut material is stored much better if it is treated with varnish or clay mash.

Important! It is advisable to excise material from crops that are regularly pruned. As a rule, such trees always produce very powerful growth.

And lastly, it is best to cut a little more fragments for future use than you need. Even if partial damage to the material occurs, the extra supply will save you.

When the workpiece is performed

Branches for scion are harvested for future use three times a year, namely:

  • at the end of autumn, beginning of December;
  • in the last days of February;
  • in June.

It is worth noting that experienced summer residents prefer November harvesting. It is carried out as soon as the first frosts arrive on the ground, after which you can begin this procedure. The fact is that at this time the crops enter the sleep phase, and accordingly the sprouts received hardening, and at the same time went through the process of disinfection.

Advantages of autumn harvesting for future use

Pros in autumn harvesting there is simply a mass of material, namely:

  • as described above, cuttings taken from a fruit crop closer to the winter period will no longer freeze, which means you will not be left without a grafting fragment;
  • the grafting material taken at this time will be in a state of complete dormancy until such manipulation is carried out, which is very important because this procedure requires a dormant cutting;
  • such material is much better preserved if collected in late autumn or early winter, which means that the risks of its damage are minimized.

So, we have figured out the benefits of this time of year for harvesting grafting material; let’s find out what advantages there are in spring harvesting.

Advantages of spring cutting cuttings

If you were unable to cut the material before winter, do not be discouraged; you can prepare apple tree cuttings for spring grafting closer to the onset of spring. To do this, you will need to stock up on the following available tools:

  • gardening scissors;
  • crushed activated carbon for putty;
  • and some free time.

If your region of residence has a harsh climate, you should check whether the sprouts from which the material for further grafting is excised are frozen. Only after making sure that the branches are completely intact, start cutting. In this case, the cuttings will be harvested healthy and strong.

Well, if your region of residence has relatively moderate winters, then this procedure can be performed any day. Generally, a couple of branches are enough material for pruning.

During the summer

Tell me in summer time Is this procedure not possible? Complete nonsense, during this period of time cuttings are also prepared for grafting apple trees. The only difference is that you need to take fresh cuttings immediately before grafting. Because in this hot period of the year, we can say that every minute is important.

How the workpiece is performed

Well, here we come to the most important question, how such a procedure as preparation is performed. For everything to go right, you should choose not only high-quality branches, but also time.

Therefore, we act strictly according to the instructions:

  • we select fruit crops in advance from which we will get a good scion;
  • Do not forget that for good cuttings it is advisable to choose young and healthy trees;
  • We start slicing only before the buds open or after the fruiting period is complete;
  • branches growing vertically are not suitable for grafting material;
  • towards the end of summer, we pinch off the peg from which it was decided to make a cutting;
  • crooked, damaged or too thin branches are not suitable for collecting such material;
  • You should not make the scion too long or short.

Important! When pruning, try to do it in such a way that the cut is 2 cm lower from the growth neck. If you do not take this point into account, the cutting may deteriorate.

After you collect the material, you need to sort them into bunches and attach to each a small tag with the name of the tree from which the cutting was collected. This is necessary in the case when you plan to vaccinate several varieties at once; by attaching an identification mark to them, you will never get confused.

In addition, the collected shoots are stored, in a slightly damp cloth napkin, with the cuts down in the cellar or in any other place that is suitable for the so-called temporary residence of the sprouts.

How to store it correctly?

Well, the branches have been collected and sorted, now you can start preparing them for storage. For this purpose, the material is first placed in plastic bags and sprinkled with slightly moistened soil, and then sent to be stored in a barn or cellar.

Typically in the bottom row refrigeration chamber, the cuttings feel great and are completely preserved without spoilage.

It is worth noting that there are several options for preserving cuttings, namely:

  1. Some gardeners successfully leave the formed bunches for storage outside. To do this, the area is cleared of snow, the cuttings are placed and sprinkled with snow again, and the top is compacted tightly. It is also recommended to make a small trench in the selected location.
  2. The second way is to store it in the refrigerator. But before sending them to such conditions, it is necessary to remove the condensation, then wrap the cuttings well in burlap, and on top in parchment paper, which will protect the material from drying out.
  3. The third method is storage in a moist substrate. To do this, take moistened sand, wet sawdust or peat. This storage method provides for temperature control up to +5. Just for storage you will also need a refrigerator, if you have one.

Important! You can save cuttings almost anywhere, the main thing is to maintain a temperature of +2. You can use a balcony, veranda or even a tree.

The only thing is, if you store the material outside, do not forget to insulate it with a layer of snow, sawdust, leaves, and earth.

It is worth noting that some gardeners store the material on a different substrate, in other words, in the ground, before spring grafting. In this case, the place where the material will be stored should be thoroughly covered with spruce branches so that the moles do not get to the cuttings before you and at the same time, the cuttings can breathe.

Time for vaccination

So, the material has been saved and the time for such manipulation is getting closer. In this case, it is very important to choose the right time for vaccination, since survival largely depends on this detail. As a rule, this manipulation begins in April or May.

Today there are different ways vaccinations. But, it is necessary to perform this procedure as soon as sap flow begins in the culture. But for good growth of the cuttings, it is important that the scion is still in a state of sleep, but the rootstock, on the contrary, has managed to activate its vital activity by this time.

Important! In trees belonging to the stone fruit variety, the movement of sap begins earlier; for this reason, they try to graft such varieties earlier than others.

Keeping the material in a cool place until the day of vaccination will help you achieve such a contrast, they should sleep.

Checking the safety of the cuttings

How to determine that the cuttings are completely suitable for grafting? In this case
there is nothing complicated if you know what damaged material looks like, namely:

  1. The bark of the cut sticks should be smooth; if there are wrinkles on it or it is too dry, such material will not be suitable for grafting.
  2. If the branch crunches when bent or breaks, it means it did not survive the winter.
  3. If you make a cross cut, the wood should have a rich greenish tint. If you see brown wood, it means the material is dead.
  4. The buds must be firmly planted on the sprout.
  5. The scales located on the kidney should be elastic and smooth.

Well, you and I have figured out how to prepare cuttings for future use. It remains to add that collecting and storing material is not difficult if you strictly follow all the recommendations given above.

Experiment and achieve best result, and proper vaccination will help you with this. And you will definitely grow a generous fruit garden.

Every gardener, whether professional or amateur, has encountered grafting fruit branches at least once in his life. Since the most common fruit tree in our gardens is the apple tree, its grafting is carried out most often. In order to carry out everything successfully, it is necessary to strictly follow all the rules. In most cases, a favorable outcome depends on properly prepared apple tree cuttings for grafting.

Apple tree cuttings for grafting can begin to be prepared in different time.

Most often, preparation is carried out in autumn time(end of November). The most suitable time for harvesting is the period after the sap flow in the tree has stopped. This period begins after the apple tree has completely shed its leaves and entered a dormant state.

Some gardeners claim that harvesting can be done at the beginning of winter. For winter preparation The period from early winter to mid-January is suitable for cuttings. After January, thaws may occur, and this will significantly worsen the survival rate of the cutting (it may not take root at all) that was cut during this period. There is an explanation for this phenomenon. It is believed that in this case there is a movement of plastic substances to the tops of the shoot when the sun warms up. They move into the branches. Cutting such a branch and grafting it onto the rootstock will be ineffective due to the fact that it no longer contains nutrients, which are necessary for the fusion of grafting elements and callus growth. Also for winter period Freezing of young shoots may occur.

Other gardeners argue that for effective grafting, apple tree cuttings can be harvested in December or February, as well as in March. But in in this case should be considered weather. The air temperature at the time of cutting should not be lower than -10 degrees Celsius. It is this temperature that contributes to the best hardening of annual shoots. If harvesting is carried out at the beginning of winter, then it should be done after the first frost. If the winter was not very frosty, and the wood on the apple tree is not damaged, then the cuttings can be harvested at the end of February or at the beginning of March.

The scion can also be prepared in the spring. In this case, young shoots are cut off before bud break. If the buds on the shoot have already blossomed, then they are not used for grafting. In some cases, harvesting can be done during March pruning of the apple tree.

Some gardeners suggest preparing a cutting just before you start grafting it.

Grafting of apple tree cuttings can be carried out both in winter and. The time of harvesting the scion directly depends on its timing. If the vaccination is carried out in winter, then the scion, accordingly, is prepared at the beginning of winter, and if in the spring, then either at the beginning of winter or in early spring.

For winter-hardy varieties Apple trees are equally suitable for preparing a scion in the fall and in winter.

Of all the harvesting periods listed above, 100% of the grafting results are obtained by harvesting cuttings at the beginning of winter.

A video showing spring or winter scion harvesting can be found below.

How to prepare

In order for the grafting to go as expected, it is necessary to choose the right time for harvesting, as well as to carry out the harvesting itself efficiently.

To do this, you must adhere to the following instructions:

  • the trees from which the scion will be taken should be selected in advance;
  • In order for the cutting to take root well, you need to use only young, healthy, and fruit-bearing branches of the apple tree;
  • The scion is made from annual shoots. If it is impossible to use one-year-old shoots, use two-year-old shoots;
  • branches should grow from the illuminated part of the bark;
  • cutting begins only after the end of the growing season or before the buds open;
  • cuttings are not harvested from branches that grow vertically (from tops or wen);
  • at the end of summer, pinch the tops of the buds on the selected branch. This is done so that the shoots, after grafting, ripen well. But you can also use regular branches;
  • For a scion, the best suitable ones are mature shoots with a diameter of at least 5-6 mm; they should have an apical growth bud and leaf lateral buds;
  • Do not make the scion too short (about 10 cm);
  • Crooked, thin and damaged branches are not suitable as a scion;
  • The shoots need to be cut below the growth neck with a piece of two-year-old wood up to 2 cm. Otherwise, the scion may deteriorate during storage.

After the scion has been cut, it must be collected into bunches according to variety (if several trees will be grafted at once different varieties). Before this, in order for the cuttings to be stored for a long time and after grafting they were given good harvest, they need to be wiped damp cloth and sort by size. Then the bunches need to be tied with wire and be sure to hang a tag on which to indicate the variety, time of cutting and the place where these cuttings will be grafted in the spring (tree type).

Video “Preparing cuttings for grafting an apple tree”

All stages of cutting cuttings can be additionally viewed on video.

How to store

After the shoots have been cut and tied, they should be stored. To do this, they are placed in a clean plastic bag and placed on the north side of your house or shed.

The following methods of scion storage are distinguished:

  • bunches can be stored outside. In this case, you should clear small area earth from snow, put scions there and cover it with snow on top and compact it;
  • cuttings can be stored in the refrigerator. In this case, they must first be wrapped in damp burlap and then in paper. Afterwards the bundles are placed in polyethylene. You need to periodically inspect the cuttings to prevent them from drying out or developing mold;
  • sections can be stored in damp sand, peat, sawdust or any other suitable substrate (the oldest and most proven method); The storage temperature should be positive, but low. Periodically it is necessary to moisten the substrate. In this case, the cuttings are kept fresh and swollen;
  • The scion can be stored in the basement at temperatures from zero to +3 degrees Celsius. The bunches are placed vertically with the cuts down, and the sides are covered with sand or sawdust. Substrate moisture must be maintained throughout the winter.
  • Rootstocks can also be stored suspended on a veranda, balcony, or tree. But in this case, they must be well insulated using a clean and sterile bag. They need to be checked periodically to prevent the cuttings from sprouting.

Sometimes, when cuttings need to be preserved until spring grafting, they are buried in the ground in the garden. The depth of the hole is one spade bayonet. The top is covered with spruce paws to prevent moles, and then they are covered with plant debris and a mark is left (for example, a peg).

By following the above requirements and instructions, you can achieve successful grafting, and the scion will bear a lot of fruit.


Vaccination is one way vegetative propagation fruit crops and others
plants. With the help of vaccinations you can significantly expand the range of
in your garden.
Cuttings of fruit trees and other plants for grafting
they begin to harvest in the process of their lignification (partial or complete). At
partial lignification, green cuttings are harvested when the herbaceous part
begins to gradually turn into woody, half-brittle. This
the process occurs at different times in different breeds: in stone fruits - in July, in
pome fruits - in August. Such cuttings are used for budding (summer grafting)
eye - kidney).
At spring grafting cuttings (improved copulation,
copulation, cleft, etc.) new shoots on the scion begin to grow at the same
year. Cuttings for it are prepared after they are completely lignified and partially
hardening This usually happens in late November - early December, after weak
frost (-5°C). That’s when the cuttings are cut, preferably in slightly frosty weather.
weather. Harvested lignified cuttings are stored in a cellar in a damp
condition (in sand or a plastic bag) at a temperature from 0°C to +1°C,
ventilate periodically. You can also store it deep under the snow (where approximately
same temperature) in a plastic bag with a small amount snow inside
him.
If there were no severe frosts, cuttings can be harvested in
later or in the spring. However, in due time (at the beginning of winter)
more reliable. Shoots frozen in mid-winter (at extreme temperatures)
They do not take root well in vaccinations, or even die. It should be remembered that
stone fruits have less frost resistance (minus 30-35°C) than
pomaceous (minus 35-42°C).
Shoots are understood as annual growths
last year. They are harvested as cuttings for grafting. Choose
the most developed shoots are in the middle of the crown. An apple tree, for example, has about 60 cm,
plums and cherries - a little less. During unfavorable periods or on old trees
annual growths can be less than 5 cm. Then for harvesting and grafting you can
use two-year increments (previous year).
It should be noted that
annual growths are primarily damaged by extreme frosts.
Therefore, after harsh winters (after the temperatures indicated above), they are not suitable for grafting.
will do. In controlled freezers, cuttings taken at the beginning
winter, can be stored at negative temperature minus 1-5°C. Then vaccinate
it is possible not at the beginning of May (at the usual time) but, for example, in June, extending, thus
Thus, the period of vaccination.
At the time of grafting, it is important that the cuttings have buds
not sprouted, otherwise the fusion between the scion and the rootstock worsens, and the grafting
is dying. This happens most often in cherries. Cuttings dried during storage overnight
or put in water for a day. If the cuttings are too dry, they will not be suitable for grafting.
at all. Most often, grafting of fruit trees is carried out in the first ten days of May,
first on cherry, plum, then on apple, pear. Vaccination times depending on
weather conditions may shift in one direction or another. For example, this year, 2004, I
I have been grafting cherry trees since mid-April, and apple trees since May 1st.