Bed with lifting mechanism – best option for small apartments, which solves several issues at once. Firstly, space is saved significantly, and secondly, the bed can serve as a storage box for bed linen or clothes. Making such a mechanism at home with your own hands is quite simple and without unnecessary furniture costs. To get started, just select the right materials, review the drawings and begin the step-by-step guide.
As in production, to start production you will need to correctly calculate the amount of material, choose the material itself and think about the dimensions. To start making, you will need:
Basic tools:
There are three types of lifting mechanisms:
Calculations are made for the base of a box 1800*2000 with a height of at least 40 cm, so that there is room for a compartment for things.
In total you will need three components, bars, corners and panels.
During installation, it is necessary to measure the degrees of the angles so that the frame lies evenly and does not creak.
Drawing for a manual mechanism
Drawing of a mechanism with shock absorber springs
Important! For installation, drills of 2, 5 and 7 mm with wrenches at 10 and 13 mm.
DIY lifting frame:
Upgrading and securing the main frame:
Important! The spring mechanism carries the load on the frame, so that the bed does not sag, they place it on the base parts metal bases(slats).
Spring mechanism fastening:
For the back you will need a sheet of material from which the frame was made.
Manufacturing:
Important: When cutting out a shape, you need to take into account that working with straight shapes is much simpler and easier. If the master does not have special skills, then the cladding may turn out sloppy.
Let's start with the sheathing. Upholstery materials finished bed are selected according to the personal preferences of the owner; leatherette, dermantin or thick fabric are mainly used.
Attention! For wooden structures, varnishing should be carried out before covering wood materials to extend the life of the bed.
Step by step guide:
Before doing the work, you need to understand one thing: the most difficult thing in making a bed with a lifting mechanism is the drawings and calculations of the material. To ensure a decent result, it is recommended to watch video tutorials and advice from professionals in advance, who will tell you what the main mistakes are made during home installation. Ultimately, the owner of the stock can be convinced that the result is much better and more reliable than factory models. This is achieved thanks to all geometric and proportional compliance, which everyone selects to suit their needs and financial capabilities.
Lack of space is a problem that many residents are familiar with. small apartments. Good decision This problem is the installation of a transforming bed with a lifting mechanism. This design provides an excellent sleeping area and storage capacity for bedding, as well as other things for which there is usually not enough space in the room. small rooms Oh. Such a bed can be purchased at a furniture store, but it is much more profitable to assemble it yourself using a ready-made drawing.
The base of the transformer and its end and side mechanisms can be made of any materials. All kinds of wood, laminate, and chipboard are especially popular. The last type of material is used most often, as it is durable, reliable and affordable.
The product can be equipped with legs or stand on the floor with its entire frame. The choice of one option or another is determined by the preferences of the owners. Owners often prefer double beds without legs, because such designs make the cleaning process easier (dust does not accumulate under the structure).
The manufacture of furniture with a lifting mechanism begins with the preparation of a drawing, selection suitable materials and preparation of working tools. The craftsman will need a tape measure, a level, a pencil, a jigsaw, a screwdriver and a set of bits, and a furniture stapler. If a furniture maker makes a lifting mechanism with his own hands, then he also needs a grinder and a welding machine.
The selection of materials and accessories must be approached with special responsibility. In addition to wood or chipboard (boards, timber, slats), for the manufacture of the base and legs you will need steel strips and a metal profile, upholstery fabric, and foam rubber. You also need to purchase an orthopedic base for the mattress.
Before you make a transformer, you need to decide on its size. In accordance with the standards, the width of the bed varies from 0.9 to 2 m. The required strength of the lifting mechanism depends on the width of the single or double bed, since the greater the width, the higher the weight of the mattress being lifted.
The lifting mechanism is one of essential elements transformer, because it is this that makes it possible to raise the top of the bed, opening access to the hollow lower part, which serves as storage. The lift consists of steel slats. They are assembled into a structure, which is a frame on movable joints, which are equipped with pneumatic shock absorbers.
In the shop furniture fittings You can purchase ready-made lifting mechanisms designed for a given weight of the orthopedic base and mattress, but many craftsmen prefer to assemble such structures with their own hands.
The mechanism consists of the following elements:
All elements of the mechanism, made by yourself, must be highly durable, since when using a lift, the load is distributed on the shock absorber, slats, fastening points and fittings that ensure the structure is attached to the bed.
The main stage of the work is making the base of the transformer with your own hands. The master can order panels corresponding to the size of the future base, or make them himself. This can be done, for example, from boards that should be glued together with wood glue. Then, in the process of connecting the four structural elements, the glued panels will be further strengthened with the help of corners. Before starting to assemble the base, it is recommended to draw up a drawing of the future product.
When the base is ready, you should proceed to making the frame. There are several ways to make it yourself. A simpler option is when a longitudinal crossbar located in the middle of the base and the upper surfaces of the legs are used as a frame. This solution is only relevant if the legs are made of thick timber (100x100 mm) and are screwed on.
The maximum strength of the bed with a mechanism for lifting the mattress is ensured by a steel frame. Its manufacture may seem like a difficult task, requiring skills in working with welding machine, however, it is precisely this solution that will ensure the long service life of the transformer. Most often, steel frames are equipped with double-bed structures and above.
A steel profile is used to make the frame. The size of its cross-section is determined by the dimensions of the bed and the load that the base of the product will have to cope with.
The dimensions of the frame must be designed in advance, in accordance with the design. The profile is cut using a grinder, then the elements are connected to each other with a weld.
It is necessary to install transverse racks between the longitudinal and transverse elements of the mechanism. They will make the structure more durable and prevent it from collapsing under the weight of the mattress and sleeping people. Then metal carcass you need to screw it to the base with your own hands. This can be done using bolts or self-tapping screws. After this, the lift mechanism is installed. The legs are attached to the corners of the frame. To make the transformer more mobile, you can screw wheels to its legs or base.
When all the mechanisms are installed, all that remains is to sheathe the product with your own hands. For this you can use leather, leatherette, fabric and other materials. The sheathing is attached using glue and a construction stapler. Sheet foam rubber (most often about 10 mm thick) allows you to add volume and airiness to the inside of the upholstery.
The foam rubber is glued to the sides of the bed with your own hands, then the edges of the material are wrapped to the inside of the structure, cut and nailed with a stapler.
The foam should be nailed on top with an overlap of approximately 3-4 mm. At the junction of pieces of foam rubber an insert is made with inside(on finished product it won't be noticeable).
Then it is covered with leather, leatherette or fabric. It is done without glue, with smoothing by hand. The material is hemmed from below with a slouch, without tucking, and from above - with tucking (for beauty). Then the corners are inserted and secured (when doing this work with your own hands, it is recommended to use metal corners).
You can sheathe the sides both at the final stage of work and at the stage of assembling the frame. This completes the work and you can now use the finished product.
Lifting beds, which can be placed in a vertical position after sleep, freeing up space in the room, are very popular today. And there can be a huge variety of models of such beds. This review contains the best of them, and with some skill you can make such a bed with your own hands.
In this example, the family installed a lift-up bed in the workshop so that this room could become a guest room if necessary. Depending on your budget, you can use hardwood, plywood, MDF or particle board to build the bed. In this case, PureBond hardwood plywood was chosen. This one is said to be of high quality construction material does not contain formaldehyde and has an international quality certificate.
A spring or piston lift mechanism can more than double the cost lift bed. Therefore, if you want to save money, you will have to accept the fact that you will have to put some effort into opening and closing the bed. It's about about the Lori Wall Kit.
Lori Wall opens and closes manually, because it does not have a mechanism. To help balance the bed, the bottom of the frame has rounded tabs that fold down when closed. Each Lori kit comes with assembly drawings and installation fittings (over 200 hinges, screws, connectors and bolts). Customers can choose two types of bed orientation: vertical or horizontal and three different sizes beds.
Many people think that they can build a bed themselves at home. It turns out that there are kits on sale for people with a limited budget and zero experience in construction.
For example, this kit from Murphy Bed Hardware has everything you need to assemble a lift-up bed and a step-by-step assembly diagram.
The ad from Katie from Addicted 2 DIY has taken the internet by storm. Katie has created a one-of-a-kind furniture system that includes bookcases And desk. The icing on the cake for this project is the bed. When folded, it resembles a storage cabinet, and no one will even guess that there is a mattress hidden behind it.
Paul from Renovations and Old Houses built his raised bed using IKEA PAX parts after his wife saw a similar IKEA furniture hack on TV.
His project includes a floor bed frame and spring mechanism. When assembled and installed, this versatile, self-contained unit is a closet with a bed built inside.
This is another homemade bed that was made from parts wardrobe systems PAX IKEA. Norwegian blogger Calvin Gross of Huskverna states that if someone is building a frame block for a full-size mattress, they will need a few things, including two PAX cabinet frames and a pair of LURÖY bed frames.
This budget-friendly DIY raised bed option from Imgur user Avalon Awaked was made from a SÖDERHAMN series sofa and ottoman from IKEA. To make the assembly process easier, the blogger purchased The Next Bed, a bed frame with a lift mechanism that can be attached to the wall or floor. It's worth keeping in mind that Avalon Awaked created a custom mount for the bed frame to open over the sofa.
The next project by David Picciuto from Make Something TV shows how to make the simplest lift-up Murphy bed using Side Mount Deluxe Murphy Bed Hardware from Rockler. Each kit includes assembly instructions.
Some people are faced with a situation where they need to “carve out” a place for a schoolchild at home. Martin Wester used leftover parts from an IKEA Ivar storage system to create a small lift-up bed with built-in shelving in his tiny home office. The most interesting part of this project is that Martin used three plywood shelves to create a bench.
Many raised beds are free-standing pieces of furniture that are visible on the wall or floor. The bloggers at Junk In the Trunk can tell you how to create a bed that seems to disappear when folded, without the need for an expensive lift mechanism.
Andrew and Crystal Odom are people who live in a tiny apartment. Since they couldn't fit a traditional raised bed in their home, they came up with a similar idea called folding bed. It unfolds like a real accordion.
Anyone can make a DIY raised bed at home by purchasing a kit from Wilding Wall Beds. It comes with everything you need to create a functional bed, including pre-cut boards. The wood in the sets is available to choose from: alder, cherry, mahogany, maple or oak.
Anyone who strives to create a truly cozy and ergonomic interior should pay attention to.
In order to save space in small rooms Maximum benefit is extracted from every piece of furniture in the room. There will be much more space in the bedroom if it is equipped with a bed with a niche under the mattress, which is used to store a variety of things. You can make a lifting mechanism for a bed yourself, saving significant money. From this article you will learn about the benefits of multifunctional furniture and detailed step by step instructions How to make a universal lift bed with your own hands.
A bed with a lifting mechanism is quite practical, as you can store things in it
Bed with two lifting parts and a drawer for linen
A bed with a lifting mechanism has features that are worth paying attention to Special attention when creating a multifunctional product with your own hands:
Having familiarized yourself with the features of the product, you can begin making a lifting mechanism for a spacious bed with your own hands.
To increase the strength of a bed with a lifting mechanism, it is necessary to make a steel frame
Manufacturing of lifting sleeping place DIY is preferable for the following reasons.
Before you start creating a lift-up bed, you need to decide appearance, complete set and frame of the desired product.
Double bed from furniture panels with lifting mechanism
Modern beds are made with different built-in lifts, which allows them to be folded into a vertical or horizontal position. To create a multifunctional stock, such mechanisms are used.
For homemade creation Any of the above devices is suitable for beds. The master decides which better device use based on capabilities and availability of finances.
Metal bed frame with lifting mechanism
When preparing the necessary material for the manufacture of a sleeping bed, it is worth taking into account the load created by the mattress on the shock absorbers, mechanical device strips, frame and fixation points.
During the installation of a piece of furniture you will need the following materials:
Common and inexpensive material among furniture makers - chipboard sheets. You can use chip boards, OSB and others. The choice of material depends entirely on the preferences of the owner and the availability of money. The upholstery fabric is selected taking into account the interior of the sleeping area where the homemade bed will be installed.
Having prepared the working material, you need to stock up on the tools that you will need to make the frame of the sleeping area.
In the process of performing labor-intensive work that requires attention and concentration, you will need:
Having collected all the tools and material that will be needed during the assembly of the frame, we begin the construction procedure.
Diagram of a bed frame with a lifting mechanism
To make a universal lifting mechanism for a bed with your own hands, you need to prepare detailed drawings of the future model. To avoid irreparable mistakes when installing the bed, you can rely on a ready-made schematic drawing of the frame assembly.
Detailed diagram of the assembly of a bed with a lifting mechanism
You can get information on how to make a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands by studying the prepared drawings.
Drawing of a lifting mechanism for a bed
First, a strong, reliable base for the intended bed is built. To make the base of the stock, you need to prepare:
After graduation preparatory work After installation, a bed base is assembled from ready-made elements.
Elevator transformation system
The lower steel strip is immediately fixed to the base frame, then the upper element is fixed to the side part.
The gas lift is mounted on a rack base
Installing gas shock absorbers for a bed with a lifting mechanism
To create a reliable sleeping place, a steel base made of metal profile, sawn into parts by a grinder, required sizes and interconnected into a solid structure by welding, which is an important working step. After completing the welding work, a timber frame is fixed to the base.
After the bed is completed, the product is sheathed using foam rubber, upholstery fabric and a furniture stapler. Thanks to the covering, the frame and frame elements are hidden, resulting in a soft, comfortable and aesthetically designed model.
How does the process of covering a finished model take place?
Foam rubber is placed on the base of the bed. The required number of layers is determined by the master independently.
The sides of the bed are covered with foam rubber
Foam rubber is nailed on top with an overlap of approximately 3-4 mm
The foam closes at the top upholstery fabric prepared in advance. The upholstery is chosen according to the interior of the room and the tastes of the owner.
The sides of the bed are upholstered with leatherette
The trim is attached to the base using a stapler, which firmly drives the staples into the furniture frame. Staples on the trim are not noticeable and do not affect the aesthetic appearance.
The corners of the upholstery are secured with corners
The sides of the model are decorated with upholstery. In places where the decorative fabric and the lift come into contact upholstery seal is placed.
The legs are fixed to the finished model if they are provided in the schematic image.
A finished bed with a lifting mechanism, made by yourself
Having studied in detail the instructions on how to make a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands, even a novice master will make a complex piece of bedroom set on his own. It’s not difficult to make a bed with a lift with your own hands, based on pre-prepared drawings. Making your own sleeping bed saves significant money and makes it possible to create a unique multifunctional bed.
Wooden bed with a lifting mechanism and a niche for storing things
How to make a large double bed with your own hands. In continuing the improvement of the apartment, it was necessary to solve the problem of expanding the living space of the bedroom with an area of 11 m2. Except small area the room had one more drawback - the width was only 2 meters 45 cm. A double bed installed in the center of the room and two wardrobes along the walls significantly reduced the living space, and the small width of the room made it difficult to get to balcony door when walking around the bed. Several rearrangements of furniture did not lead to an improvement in the situation in the room - another solution was required. Hiking around furniture stores and furniture manufacturing salons were offered alternatives. It was decided to install a built-in lift-up bed. But there were problems here too, it was not possible to find ready-made solutions a double lift-up bed with a mattress size of 160 cm by 200 cm, and the furniture manufacturing solutions offered in the workshops did not suit me with the width of the bed when raised and the height of the bed when lowered. All the bed designs considered were based on chipboards, and this did not satisfy me, both for environmental reasons and for the reliability of long-term operation. And to top it all off, the cost of the furniture, in my opinion, was simply off the charts. This was determined by simply calculating the cost of component materials. For some designs, the retail cost of materials was more than an order of magnitude lower than the cost of the bed. Of course, I immediately had the desire to make the bed myself and with my own hands. The Internet has helped in solving this issue.
The work began with the search for the most important component of the lifting bed - the hinges. Were considered various options lifting mechanisms with spring hinges, pneumatic cylinders, counterweights and mechanical with electric drive. The choice fell on the use of the most proven and feasible method of manufacturing a lifting bed using lifting mechanics based on spring hinges. The question “how to do it?” I decided to make the bed with my own hands with the selected hinge option. The most powerful hinges that could be found were chosen; the manufacturer guaranteed a lifting weight of the bed of 200 kg. Hinge brand 108/4 , are made in Italy. The hinges were ordered online. A month later transport company I delivered a parcel weighing about 25 kg with two hinges and retractable legs for the bed.
Receipt of the cargo became the starting point for the start of work. The next day the old bed was dismantled, the old mattress was thrown out and a new one with dimensions of 2000x1600x200 mm was immediately purchased. The place for furniture creativity was ready. Maybe this is the wrong approach, but at that time I didn’t have a clear decision on how to make a bed. Initially I was going to go along classic version– production of a wall structure where the bed was removed. But the desire to make the entire bed from wood, and not from chipboards, greatly increased the cost of materials. This is where the idea came to use two closets in the room as a wall structure - a niche for the future bed. But first it was necessary to make the bed itself. Geometric calculations and glued boards offered in the nearest store led to the following design of the lifting part of the bed: side walls made of thick glued boards with a cross section of 250x40 mm, end walls made of 25 mm glued boards, crossbars made of bars with a cross-section of 45×45 mm. Don’t be lazy, choose cross members without knots and defects; the fibers should be even along the entire length of the bar! I admit that, having no experience, I was tormented by doubts as to whether the bottom structure would withstand future loads, and periodically imagined how the bed under me would break;). The work was carried out in the evenings and on weekends right in the room. So, the sequence of making a homemade lift-up built-in bed. Unfortunately photo chronicle of production makeshift bed was carried out, but as happens it was not preserved with a few exceptions. The bed assembly scheme was born in the process of building a homemade lifting bed.
1. The sketch of the lifting part of the bed consisted of a box of four boards and four cross members to form the bottom for the orthopedic frame.
2. It was decided to connect the frame boards in THORN on glue (hereinafter, PVA glue was used to glue the wood, 1 liter was enough for everything). To apply the contours of the spikes, a stencil is cut out of cardboard before sawing. Carefully apply the contour for cutting, incorrect markings after cutting will ruin the board, there is no reserve in length! Remember the rule - in each connection of boards, the tenon of one board must correspond to the groove between the tenons of the other board. The boards were originally 30–50mm larger in size external size boxes, this excess is cut off after gluing the joint.
Spikes3. The spikes were selected with a jigsaw and trimmed if necessary construction knife and a chisel.
4. After selecting the studs on flat surface(for me it was a covered floor of the room) the bed frame is being assembled, you need to check inner dimensions and the lengths of the diagonals - the diagonals must be equal! (±5-10mm). If necessary, the workpieces are adjusted to ensure equal diagonals.
5. Mark the installation locations of the crossbars. The grooves are selected using manual milling machine, sampling depth 30mm. There is no worse way to do this carefully with a chisel.
6. After selecting the grooves, the workpieces were polished and coated with colorless varnish on water based. A total of 3 layers were applied. After the varnish had completely dried, work continued.
7. We adjust the dimensions of the crossbars taking into account the depth and shape of the grooves made. We don’t throw away the trimmings, they will still be needed.
8. We connect the crossbars and tenon joints of the frame with glue. We need to prepare for this operation. The best connection will be obtained when connecting with force. The force is created using twisted rope loops wooden block. Be careful and careful!!! It is imperative to make linings to prevent damage to the boards by ropes. The loop must be twisted until significant forces arise when twisting.
It is very important to set all the angles and constantly monitor the length of the diagonals. The diagonals must be equal. The glue must be dried thoroughly and securely. It is better to leave the frame alone for a few days.
9. After making the frame, the room was rearranged; one of the cabinets was specially moved to form the second wall of the bed niche. The distance between the cabinets should be equal to the external width of the bed and the thickness of the mounted hinges.
10. Naturally, I did not attach the hinges to a simply standing cabinet. Cabinets need to be strengthened and secured. Firstly, all removable shelves in the lower part of the cabinets were firmly screwed to the walls using furniture screws, and all available threaded connections fit. Each cabinet is screwed to the wall at at least three points using corners. As a result, the cabinets stood rooted to the spot :).
11. Since there was no clarity on the method of assembling the bed, I decided to install the hinges and check the mechanism. The position of the hinges determines the height of the lowered bed and the distance from the wall of the raised bed. When choosing the position of the hinges, it is necessary to take into account the movement of the headboard along the radius of the axis of rotation. In my version, when lowering the bed, the board passes 3cm from the wall. The coordinates of the rotation axis are shown in the sketch.
12. The loop is a structure in the form of a frame installed on a support and the actual loop installed on the bed. The frames were attached to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. They must be installed symmetrically and at the same level.
13. The hinges were fastened using furniture bolts through a large washer. The hinges have holes with appropriate threads. Holes were marked and drilled in the frame boards at the installation site. Through the holes the loops were attached to the bed. I want to say right away that if you follow my path, then you need to remove at least four springs from the hinge so that you can easily lower the bed frame for work and put a small load to avoid spontaneous lifting.
14. After screwing the hinges, I installed the frame vertically. The design of the box was still light and I easily inserted the hinges into the frames and secured them with standard staples. With fewer springs, the frame was easily lowered and remained down with a small weight, and when raised it also had to be held. The room immediately felt freer. Further all work was carried out on a fixed bed.
15. The next step was to strengthen the bottom of the bed. The crossbars made of bars looked flimsy and it was hard to believe that they would support the weight. But there was nowhere to retreat - construction continued. It was decided to make the bottom from 6mm plywood.
16. Bars with a cross-section of 45x45mm were glued to the side walls of the frame along the perimeter. The glued bars and crossbars must be in the same plane. Clamps were used to create pressure. To avoid damaging the boards, it is necessary to place spacers. With only 5 clamps, the bars were glued in three stages. The bars were not glued only to the side walls of the top of the bed, where the legs were attached. Further work was carried out 7 days after gluing the last block.
17. For the legs in the upper end board of the bed frame, 2 square holes were selected. Initially, I was tormented by doubts that the mounting holes for the legs were not enough, but subsequent operating experience showed the reliability of the fastening.
18. The bottom is made from purchased 6 mm plywood. It was not possible to make the bottom from one piece of plywood, since standard width sheet of plywood 1500mm, two sheets of plywood measuring 1500x1500mm were purchased from the store.
19. Sheets of plywood are cut so that the seams fall on less loaded bars. After cutting out all the pieces of plywood, I began work on attaching them to the bars. The plywood was supposed to be attached with glue, and to create pressure in the gluing areas, through holes with a diameter of 3 mm were drilled in the plywood to press the sheets with self-tapping screws. The plywood is laid out on the inner frame and future holes are planned; to reduce nicks in the gluing area, it is better to start drilling from reverse side sheets of plywood. At the place where the legs are attached, grooves are left in the pieces of plywood for access to the fasteners of the legs.
20. The installation sites of the sheets are generously lubricated with glue and the plywood sheets are pressed using self-tapping screws. The bed is raised and again left alone for several days. Then all the screws are removed, and the remaining holes are filled with PVA glue in several stages until the glue dries completely. I left some of the screws in place.
21. With the installation of plywood, the bed became heavier and it was necessary to adjust the tension of the springs to make it easier to lift; it no longer rose spontaneously. During the drying process, the leaks in the gluing of the plywood with the bars are additionally covered with glue. This must be done to prevent possible squeaks in the bed.
22. At this stage, you can remove the bed from its hinges and install three more springs. Further, the bed will become heavier and installing the springs will require more effort.
23. Tests of the plywood-covered bottom showed (three adults stood in the center of the bed) that the bed was durable. After testing, the bottom of the bed was additionally sanded and coated with water-based varnish in three layers.
24. After the varnish has dried, the mattress is installed in the bed. The mattress in the straightened state turned out to be somewhat bigger size and therefore was tightly held in the internal volume of the bed frame and its additional fastening, as in the site, was not required.
25. The next practical tests of the bed were carried out, based on the results of the presence of a large free space between the mattress and the wall in the raised state, I decided to place pillows and a blanket in the bed. To do this, four Velcro straps from the mattress packaging are installed. The ends of the belts were attached to the bottom of the bed with self-tapping screws - bugs. When the bed was raised, the blanket and pillows were pressed against the mattress with straps.
26. The finishing continued with the installation of cladding on the outer part of the bottom from fiberboard sheets - sheets from the bottom of the old bed were used. The sheets were attached with glue and pressed with postal nails. All sheets are placed in the same plane. After gluing the fiberboard, the bed was already raised with considerable effort and the tension of the springs was adjusted with the appropriate screw on each hinge to easily lift the bed.
27. To strictly fix the bed in a vertical position, limiters for the movement of the bed when lifting are installed. The limiters are installed on a horizontal board between the cabinets, which also serves as dust protection for the raised bed. The limiter is made of a piece of board; a sponge rubber shock absorber is installed at the point of contact with the bed. It is better to secure a piece of board with glue and screws. The glue fastening did not hold up and was reinforced with self-tapping screws.
