Today I’ll take the risk of reviewing a master class from a French site. Unfortunately, the original did not have a verbal accompaniment, so everything was done using my own guesses and knowledge on this issue lying around in my head.

So, what will we have ready in the end? This. Enough stylish table, made to look like wood and leather. and not just a table, but a folding table.

1. So, the first photo. We cut out the basic shape for our... um, maybe we should call them legs. Basically, we cut out the shape for the table legs. The photo shows one thick layer, but this is not gluing or thick cardboard, as it might seem at first glance. It's just that the author apparently cut out all 6 supports (3 for one side and 3 for the other) at one time. This is very reasonable, since with this approach the top will be more symmetrical and, hopefully (), will not wobble.

2. Now we assemble each support. We start from the middle, from the middle bar. When making cuts for the grooves, it is best to do them simultaneously on the middle strip for the second support. This should look like this:

3. Now we fill the grooves with mating parts. The width of all inserts should be equal, and the height should correspond to the height of each specific element to which they are attached (well, I think this is quite clear from the photo).
I want to say that the exact dimensions of the table are unknown, I don’t think it’s big, most likely it’s something like a coffee table, but the same design can be extrapolated to a more serious object, for example, to make a table for the living room. Why not? So you will have to set the width and height of all parts yourself in accordance with the general scale.

To strengthen the joints, we use quick-drying glue - moment or, even better, we use a glue gun for this.

4. Using the same glue gun, glue the side parts of the sheets to the main central part of each support on the sides. As you can see, the table part is already quite stable)). It is not yet visible in this photo (it will be noticeable in the next ones) that when gluing the side support into one whole, the author strengthened the joints by additionally gluing the edges of the “grid” in pieces, so it turned out that constituent elements the side supports seem to consist of a double sheet.

We remember that there should be two of these things.

5. Only on last photo We still have the outer sides uncovered. On next photo they are already neatly covered with cardboard plates. The author omitted this procedure in his photo MK, but there is nothing particularly complicated here. We cut out a rectangle from cardboard along the width of the side support, bend it slightly, winding it, for example, on a stick to give it a curved shape, and use a glue gun to attach it to the side parts of the supports. You can try gluing it all in one layer, bending it accordingly. But the author, and this is really more convenient, cut the rectangle into two parts and glued them end-to-end separately. In this photo we already have two supports with sides and the bottom of the table is glued here: a thick layer is glued to the lower parts of the supports (you can pre-glue two sheets together).



6. Now, based on the glued bottom, we make the following resolution:

Inserts into the grooves in the central part are not needed yet, just cut them out, try them on and put them aside. and cover the grid to the right and left of the central part again with layers of cardboard glued with a glue gun.



7. It’s not visible in the next photo, but there should again be a grid (stiffening ribs) on top of the first layer. they must be very carefully adjusted so that they are almost at the same level with the upper edge of the oval cutout in the side supports, so that the layer placed on top lies tightly on the stiffeners themselves and is glued to this very top edge of the oval cutout. In general, look at the photo:

Yes, and don’t forget about the grooves in the central part. Now you can fill them out.

At the same time as all this, we also finished the inner sides of the table supports. As you can see, I’ll lower it and everything is already covered from the inside.



8. Now the drawers. How to make them, I think, can be seen quite clearly in the photo. It's all about the accuracy of the measurements. The only reminder is that we make the front “lid-wall” from two layers (although it would be possible to strengthen the entire box in a similar way..)









But such partitions not only organize the space inside the box, but also strengthen it.

9. The next stage. Now let's go back to the top. On the surface of the sheets on both sides of the central part we again glue the stiffening ribs, measuring so that they are flush with the common surface of the side supports. At the same time, we cover the side “insides” of the table with sheets.

10. Now what is our tabletop? We also remember that our table is folding.
The tabletop consists of a lower thick sheet (you can glue two sheets together), the perimeter of which equal to the perimeter the imperfection of the table. the top cover sheet is the same. The two sides are sealed tightly with narrow strips. In the end the table looks like this:

But the internal structure is like this:

These elements are taken out from the sides of the table and folded, forming a small addition:



11. Decoration. Here honestly, I didn’t really understand what exactly the author did. If anyone thinks of it, write.

I am inclined to believe that the leveling was done with ordinary kraft paper, then the top was painted with paint in several layers and sanded to get rid of the joints (yes, all joints should not be covered with paper tape). The outer lids of the drawers and the table top are finished with leather-like material. This can be found in handicraft stores for book binding) and in the construction and wallpaper departments there should be something similar. There's probably a dark varnish on top.