If it’s still worth thinking about the cost-effectiveness of a homemade stool, then making a chair yourself is definitely justified: an ordinary common chair from a home workshop can look no worse than a store-bought one, but will cost 2-3 times less. This is if you purchase material “from scratch” without using accumulated reserves. And if you go for something exclusive, which is quite possible for an average craftsman with a chair, then the savings will reach simply unimaginable limits, see at the end.
There is one more important point. The chair differs from not only technically, as will be discussed later, but also ideologically. A stool is an essentially utilitarian product; It is generally considered bad manners to keep stools in the living room, preferably poufs. And a chair is one of the pieces of furniture that determines the face of the interior no less than a table, or even more. Subtle experts in etiquette judge a person's dignity by the quality and condition of his shoes, and the state of his affairs by the chairs in the house. If a person has the ability, time and desire to make a chair with imagination and taste, such as, for example. in the photo, then he deserves trust, even if he is still in cramped circumstances. And these are just the non-convertible chairs; folding and, say, step-chairs are a special class of joinery, which we will discuss later.
Note: the subtleties of high treatment sometimes reach the point of curiosity. This is how, for example, a certain British sailor lord put it about the first wife of Napoleon I, Josephine de Beauharnais: “In England she could become a real lady. Just look at the contours of her stern!”
Chairs are generally divided into 2 classes: living and dining. The difference is primarily in the seat; in the dining ones it is narrower at the back and a little higher. This was invented back in time immemorial, so that it would be more convenient for the servants to serve the feasters, and for them to sit upright for the sake of absorption more food and drinks. Structurally, a dining chair differs from a living room chair in that the legs are located lower; this is required to ensure strength. How the chair is structured in general and what the approximate dimensions of both are shown in Fig.
Dining chairs are not considered essential items these days; Most people make do with living rooms in all cases. A drawing with details of the structure of an ordinary living room chair is shown in Fig. Its feature is straight rear legs, which saves material and simplifies work. A physiologically acceptable sitting posture is ensured by arching the back. For the home handyman middle level compile from it and overall dimensions detailing is not difficult, and the subtleties encountered in the work are described below.
Note: blanks are collected in bags for batches of 4 chairs for the sake of convenience and accuracy of marking with a hand-held measuring tool. With this organization of work, the quartets of chairs turn out to be exactly the same, this is the first subtlety.
At first glance, it seems that the chair is just a stool with a backrest. But it’s the back that makes it completely different from a stool from a mechanical point of view: people lean on it, or even fall apart. If a stool can generally be considered something solid, working primarily on compression; well, even for bending and shear when rocking, then in a chair the loads from the junction of the longitudinal drawers with the rear legs are much higher, of a different nature and spread throughout the structure in a rather bizarre way. Therefore, by the way, as a rule, they do not install transverse legs in chairs: they will not work in the structure, only the excess material will go away.
The chair is finished using common methods for furniture: tinting with stains, varnishing, painting, veneering, upholstery. But technologically, chairs differ from stools in the following ways:
To make a chair with our own hands, we will have to thoroughly master furniture (carpentry) tongue-and-groove joints. Basic information about them is given in the article about a do-it-yourself stool; Here we will mention something in relation to the chair.
Open connections and with through tenons in chairs for the sake of aesthetics are rarely used, as are connections reinforced with hardware: bolts, confirmations, self-tapping screws. A nail in a chair is basically the same as a car hood tied with rope.
The chairs are assembled using blind tongue-and-groove joints that are invisible from the outside; they are sometimes called miter joints. Assembly is done with gluing; wedging of tenons is often used, because They don't make regular chairs with removable legs. A chair with wedged tenons is more labor-intensive, but very strong and durable, because all parts of the connection dry out together.
How to make a blind groove (hole) for a tenon is shown in Fig. if you have manual frezer on wood, then you don’t need to pick out the excess with a chisel, but you need to drill the edges of the hole: it’s easy to just “go away” with an end mill. In this case, the edges of the tenon are also rounded, but it will only be neater and stronger.
It seems strange, but it is with tenons that amateurs most often have problems: it is difficult to saw a workpiece for it with a hacksaw without “scratching” the base of the tenon, and a tenon sawed at the base is an unacceptable defect, because the strength of the connection drops sharply. Deliberately under-saw and remove the fold (extra wood around the tenon) with your hands - the tenon may come out “plump” or oblique, which is no more acceptable. Therefore, it is best to make furniture tenons using a router with some simple devices, see video:
Conifer tree, from which such good stools were made, is definitely not suitable for a chair, even hard larch. Reason: any coniferous wood is straight-layered, and in the chair there are loads that can cause chipping along the layer - I would like to see less, but where can I go. Coniferous wood will only go into a chair in the form of plywood on the base of the seat.
For a wooden chair, use deciduous, fine-grained, dense, durable species: oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut, elm, rowan. Birch will be used for children's chairs; and birch plywood - for folding ones. Preparation conditions are general furniture: room dryness (8-12%), not chamber drying, impregnation with water-polymer emulsion or other harmless biocides, for example. high-purity mineral oil for furniture, oil-wax compositions, acrylic compounds for furniture.
Wood for a chair will cost less if you take it not sawn, but in solids, and cut it yourself using a circular saw or an angle grinder with a circular saw in a homemade frame. For some products, e.g. bar stools, see below, you can’t do without an array, because... lumber of the required width is either not available or is very expensive. In this case, you need to know that solid wood is sold for decorative and structural purposes. The second ones are more expensive, because their mechanical properties are standardized and checked, while decorative solids are not.
The last thing to consider when choosing wood for a chair is that “decorative” defects are unacceptable. In a stool or tabletop, slanted, twisted, tightly fitting knots can be beneficial, ultimately giving a beautiful texture, but a chair made from such wood will soon break.
A wooden chair is assembled without a seat twice: first dry and without wedges, and after adjusting the parts and checking the configuration by measuring the sides and pairs (oblique diagonals from the lower corner to the opposite upper one), finally with wedging and gluing. In both cases, the so-called. an apron made from the rear legs, back and longitudinal sides, and the “apron” is already adjusted to it, see fig.
Note: note the way the tenons are inserted into the front legs here and below when we get to the seat posts. With equal spikes, like in a stool, the sides of the chair do not cut into the legs, and there will not be adequate strength.
All parts of the chair are made from solid wood. The temptation to make the rear legs prefabricated to save material is great, but don’t: they will soon break. It’s better to take on the set right away, marking the contours on the surface of the board according to the template with a shift. If the chair is for dining, then in this case the longitudinal drawers should also be slanted/curved, and the question arises: how to make tenons with grooves? It is very difficult to mow at home, and it is not necessary. You will have to spend a little more material, but oblique/curved drawers with straight tenons can be obtained without much difficulty from a board as thick as the drawer height, see fig.:
Only now you need to mill the tenons, using a mandrel with the required angle, and always in a bag: remove the fold from the long sides, transfer the bag and fold the short sides. The corners of the studs are rounded separately, this is no longer critical.
The back of a chair, as you know, can be solid, hard, stacked, or soft. Solid rigid - just a curved bar. It is cut out, like curved drawers, as well as details of hard inlaid backs, pos. 1-3 in Fig.; We won’t talk about the backs of Viennese and other complex chairs for now. The back parts are assembled on spikes; We’ll leave chairs with backs with screws in museums of Soviet consumer goods.
For simple soft backrest, pos. 4, you need a straight top bar and, possibly, an intermediate support (purlin, “backrest”). The base of the back is made of 4-6 mm plywood. They cover it in the same way as the seat, see below, but use foam rubber no thicker than 7 mm or use batting/felt. The soft padding is placed on glue, not reaching 15-20 mm to the edges. Decorative cladding sewn with a pocket, put on a padded base and stitched at the bottom. Place the backrest in the grooves selected in the top bar, rear drawer or purlin and rear legs; select the grooves by measuring the thickness of the back covered with fabric. The sequence of chair assembly changes:
How the chair cushion is arranged is shown in Fig. with a drawing at the beginning. Unlike the stool seat, the upholstery is in this case When the seated person fidgets, it does not stretch as much, so the inner upholstery of the base is not required. The base is made of plywood or a solid board with a thickness of 12-30 mm. But the seat of a chair is more difficult to clean than a stool, so the foam padding must be covered with felt or, worse, batting that absorbs sweat. Solid particles of dried sweat are subsequently squeezed out of the seat.
The upholstery of the chair seat also does not need to be fastened as carefully as that of a stool; you can get by with pinning it with a furniture stapler without gluing. Cover the pillow with decorative fabric in the usual way, trimming the scars that form at the corners. But the cladding made as shown in Fig. will last much longer. If the chair is covered with much more elastic and expensive leather than fabric, this is a must-have option.
Drawings of chairs most often show the fastening of the seat to slats, embedded in the legs along with the longitudinal drawers and additionally attached to them with self-tapping screws. This highly technological and low-labor method is widely used in industry, but for yourself it would be much better to lay the seat on the jibs, see fig. on right. The chair will be much stronger, the seat will get dirty less and will be easier to remove for cleaning.
A seat simply laid on top of the support frame loses all the advantages compared to a stool, and the chair frame experiences increased loads. Therefore, it is better to place the seat of the chair in a tray formed by the drawers; To do this, if the seat is on jibs, they are placed lower by the thickness of the base of the seat without a cushion. So that the front drawer does not interfere with the legs, it is lowered to the same thickness, which will only make the entire frame stronger, and the seat itself is moved forward by the thickness of the drawer or a little more. Then the front jibs cut into the front frame flush with its top.
I really want to put homemade chair on figured wooden legs. This is not at all as difficult as it might seem, you just have to spend money on thick beams: for the front legs, taking into account the margin for processing, a 150x150 beam will do, and for the rear legs - from 250x250. How the figured legs on the bars are marked is clear from Fig. Basic conditions: you need 2 identical templates, with their heads and heels meeting on the inner (relative to the finished leg) edge of the beam. However, the convergence of the heels is not necessary, then they will turn out to be wide, like hooves, and the trace of their supporting surface will look like a horseshoe. The technology itself does not require art education: they simply remove the excess from the side of the inner edge and alternately from the outer edges.
We will assume that you now have a good idea of how to make an ordinary living room or dining chair. But there are a huge number of varieties of household chairs. Most of them are folding ones; I must say that folding furniture is now experiencing rapid growth and is widely used not only as a temporary solution, but also to save space and/or modify the design of housing. Chairs play an important role here, see for example. video:
Folding chairs, so to speak, classic look, both modern and ancient ones look similar, see fig. Until recently, their advantage was that when folded they take up little space. But, firstly, the tilt of the back of such a chair is not optimal. Secondly, the mechanism requires the shoes of the rear edge of the seat to slide into longitudinal grooves, which is rather complicated and weakens the structure. Therefore, patents for chairs similar to each other number in the thousands, and in the end the optimum was not found at all where they were looking, see below.
For example, an attempt to optimize the design of the original folding chair is shown in the following. rice.:
There is only one drawback, but it is fatal: the huge overhang of the seat forward relative to the line of support, which is why the first sitting on a new chair can end in failure in the literal sense of the word. Other designers have tried to make the folding chair more ergonomic or by making the rear legs with a bend, at the top in Fig. below, or by moving the joint of the spreader upward, below in the same place. In both cases, the design cannot be called simple and the dimensions when folded are “protruding”. And in the first case, the conditionally rear (i.e., connected to the sides of the back) legs cannot be made in one piece, which is contraindicated for any chair.
A solution was found relatively recently, and when you see what it is, you involuntarily recall the statement of T. A. Edison: “Everyone knows that this cannot be done. There is a fool who doesn’t know this, and it is he who makes the invention.” In this case, a plywood folding chair-slab, see fig. There is no need to describe it, and everything is clear. The double seat support distributes the loads throughout the structure. In addition, by drilling rows of holes on the sides of the seat, you can adjust the chair to suit the rider; There are such modifications on sale.
All the described chairs have a drawback: they are hard. Plywood, however, can be made soft, but the thickness when folded will increase. These chairs are suitable for a picnic, but for long periods of sitting you need something softer. The solution has also been known for a long time: chairs with a canvas seat and, possibly, a back. For example, in Fig. Below is a canvas folding chair for a summer house. The design is a little complicated, but the comfort pays for it, and when folded, such a chair is not much thicker than a classic one. True, the leg rests across the seat, but since, lounging in the shade, your legs are not tucked under the chair, this is not so scary.
Even more use is made of canvas and tarpaulin in fishing chairs; Lightness and compactness play a role here. But the usual fishing and tourist gear, pos. 1 in Fig., for hiking they are still bulky and the backpack drags noticeably. If you are going camping by car, you can take a fishing plywood folding chair, pos. 2. Its feature is an additional rotating plate on the back; On such a seat it is more convenient to languish during a sluggish bite.
For walking and in general in any case, the most convenient option is a tripod chair, pos. 3. This is not difficult to make with your own hands; as shown on the right in Fig. A tripod with bamboo legs is not felt at all in the backpack. If you can find a tight, durable rubber ring, like a wrist expander, then making a tripod chair is even easier: the rubber band is simply pulled to the middle of a bag of legs.
IN Lately There is an increased interest in furniture for bars and cafes. In fact, there are no adjectives “barny”, “barnaya”, “barnoe”, “barnye” in the Russian language. It wouldn’t hurt, since these bars are everywhere you turn, but they really don’t fit into the ranks of the language. However, let philologists be wise here, and we will assume that bar stool exists and is worth doing.
Furniture for bars “from this” and “from that” and with a markup “per star” has become boring to everyone. Inexpensive and enough quality furniture for bars at a reasonable price it sells out well, and here a master individual entrepreneur or just an individual artisan can make good money.
A bar stool is generally tall, about dinner table, stool with footrest. The easiest way to make the seat base is from 2 plywood or solid circles with a thickness of 20 mm and a diameter of 350-370 and 250-270 mm. The smaller circle is the intermediate link for attaching the seat to the chair post, and the larger circle is the base of the seat. If it is hard, the circles are made from solid wood, ground and varnished; plywood bases go under tight fitting.
The soft seat of a bar stool is of the same design as for a soft stool, only it is immediately covered with decorative fabric or leatherette; It can also be done in leather if the customer pays. Decorative covers, especially on round seats, in the bar will slide off long before the end of the evening. The foam rubber for the seat cushion is as dense and elastic as possible, from number 35. From it you can make a pillow with a thickness of 60-70 mm, and from 45 - 50 up to 120-150 mm. The lower circle is attached to the support with self-tapping screws from above, and the finished seat is attached to it from under the bottom.
In Fig. above shows the detailing and assembly method of a massive, solid bar stool; Dimensions of parts 3 and 4 are in cm. Please note that part 4 is asymmetrical, because 4 parts 3 are assembled into a nest. In Fig. on the right is a lighter-looking chair with round legs. The basis of his seat is 2 identical circles with a diameter of 340 mm. The required strength is given to it by a ring leg together with exactly the same foot. It also shows methods for assembling and cutting out a leg with a footrest: in a 20-24 mm plywood blank, first drill holes to the diameter of the legs with a feather drill, cut out the inner circle with a jigsaw and cut off the ring along the outer contour.
Here in Fig. - a very stable and quite original-looking chair support in a bar made of planks. The base for it is made of plywood in the same way as the previous version, but it is placed on top. By carefully cutting out beveled grooves for the boards, you can give it the appearance of a solid ring, which is aesthetically pleasing.
No, we haven't forgotten about the children. It’s just that children’s furniture is so unique that it needs to be considered separately. Children, for all their imagination, are always pragmatists, naturally determined to survive in the future. That's why they are tireless researchers. So there is no particular point in “polishing” the aesthetics of a chair for a child: functionality and durability are more important here. It’s amazing how such a little thing manages to break very durable things. Maybe future scientists will understand; perhaps by reconsidering the fundamental laws of nature. Just kidding, kidding. We were all like that, we just forgot, and there are no indigo children at all.
The best material for a children's chair is birch or birch plywood. Its relatively lower strength in this case is not a hindrance: the parts are shorter and per unit area cross section less stress is required. But to assemble children's high chairs on confirmations with plugs or dowels, pos. 1 in Fig. It doesn’t stand higher, like adult furniture: they will break it, pick it apart, unscrew it. This design is suitable for a chair for growth, with an adjustable seat and footrest, pos. 2. It would be best to make the children's chair quick-assembled without fastenings, pos. 3. It will be taken apart - no big deal, it won’t take long to collect. And he (she) will only have more intelligence and spatial imagination. So we give in Fig. drawings of a children's prefabricated chair, and in addition to it - a diagram of a folding chair for very ignorant children. For a dad whose saw and hammer don’t fall out of their hands, repeating it probably won’t be a problem.
Note: also in Fig. Below is a children’s chair “adult-style”, on a frame and self-tapping screws. For some reason, boys like these more and they break them less.
Both children and adults will find a chair that turns into a ladder useful at home. The first - so as not to rummage through a dusty pantry and not risk breaking my wife’s jars when pulling out a stepladder. The second - to climb to the second floor of the bed or children's corner. This is especially important in small apartments, where there may simply not be room for a stationary ladder. In general, if necessary, in Fig. – drawings of an adult ladder chair; the legs, of course, do not have to be curly. A children's ladder chair of the same design is obtained by proportionally reducing the dimensions, except for the thickness of the steps.
With the best, honest intentions and on a reasonable basis, without any psycho-engineering tricks. Take a look at fig. on right. Cool, yeah? Especially if you ask about the price of 1 (one) product. All the furnishings of a decent bachelor's one-room apartment, including a refrigerator, vacuum cleaner, microwave and electric boiler, cost about the same.
The reason is the high labor intensity of such a chair, which cannot be mechanized or robotized. Or giving in so tightly that easier with your hands do. Highly qualified and highly paid.
But, by the way, the technology for creating such unspeakable beauty is ridiculously trivial, it just requires a lot of attention and accuracy. The materials are also ordinary - wood, plywood, fabric, foam rubber. Large production areas and complex equipment are not required; a garage or shed will be enough. This is the “hedgehog under your skin”: you can do it yourself at home!
Unfortunately, it is not possible to give even a cursory description of this chair in a review article: its volume and labor intensity are quite consistent with the nature of the object. But let’s hope that we will have another opportunity to tell you how to make a chair worthy of a royal palace with your own hands at home on an average family budget.
Those who are familiar with arranging their home “from scratch” know that this is a very expensive pleasure, from interior decoration to the purchase of furniture. And even such a seemingly insignificant trifle as a chair can cost a pretty penny. One well-made, but completely ordinary chair costs a lot of money, but you need at least three of them. What to do when guests come to celebrate a housewarming? The experience of building chairs with your own hands will help you not only save money on the family budget, but will allow you to create your own original designs that will match the character of the interior and your preferences. In this article we will tell you in detail how to make a chair from wood.
Almost any wood is suitable for making a chair, but it is best to start with the cheapest, for example, pine. Later, when you have mastered the basic skills of handling turning tools, you can “swing” at oak, teak, cherry or other elite species. When choosing lumber for a future chair, you should take into account the pliability of the wood, its color, durability and other characteristics. Thus, oak is very hard, and over time its color becomes darker, and the darker the oak product, the more noble and beautiful it is considered. Stain is a special substance for treating wood that has coloring properties. It does not cover the texture, but makes the surface a tone darker, allowing you to create the effect of an expensive rock. Thus, you can make the same cherry or merbau from pine in a couple of hours. To make a chair you will need ordinary turning tools:
A little about finishing chair. If you want to preserve the beautiful texture of the wood, coat it with clear (or tinted) varnish. If you plan to use the chair outdoors, such as in the garden or on open veranda, it is better to cover it with alkyd varnish PF-170 or Yacht varnish - these products will protect the wood from fading under the sun and humidity. For “home” chairs, use a special furniture varnish. Nitro varnishes dry quickly, but they emit a pungent odor, so it is better to work with them on a balcony or in a well-ventilated area.
Wooden stoolFor those new to the world of DIY furniture, it's best to start with something simpler, like a stool. This is an elementary design, the manufacture of which will give an idea of the basic subtleties of working with wood. If you decide to make a chair from pine, be prepared for the fact that you will have to tinker with sanding, especially if you don’t have a sander. As an alternative, you can use beech - it is quite inexpensive, has a beautiful texture and is easy to work with.
Materials for the stoolFor a stool you will need to make 4 bars with square section 40 mm, 8 bars 40x20 mm for crossbars and a square seat with a side of 350 mm. For the seat, you can use furniture board or thick plywood. Of course, you can knock it down from boards, but a solid surface looks more aesthetically pleasing. We propose to make a classic stool designed for an adult of average height. The height of the legs will be 42 cm, and they will be held together by crossbars 21 cm long. Before sawing off the excess part, carefully check the evenness of the intended line and compliance with the dimensions. Contrary to the well-known proverb, this should not be done seven times, but at least a couple. Sanding the stoolWhen the blanks are sawn, the silhouette of the future stool begins to emerge, but it is still very early to assemble it. First, you need to carefully sand all parts of the structure so as not to plant a splinter in the future. If the surface is very rough, use #4 sandpaper. When you have more or less smoothed out the knots and the surface becomes rough, wipe it with a damp cloth - the water will lift the small short fibers, after which they can be removed with No. 2 sandpaper.
You need to “raise” the wood fibers until the surface becomes perfectly smooth, each time reducing the number of sandpaper. In this regard, an electric grinder is very helpful. Assembling the stoolFinally, you can start assembling the stool. How to do this is intuitively clear, but there are still some subtleties here.
How to assemble a stool with your own hands:  Helpful advice: Before painting, make holes for future fasteners and do not screw the screws into them completely. Once you have painted the piece, you can tie a thread to this screw and hang the leg or crossbar in the air. Otherwise you will have to wait until it dries top part, then turn the element over and paint it from below, and this is fraught with the above-mentioned spots and stains. If you feel the urge to create or want to involve children in creating original interior for a family “nest”, the chair can be painted before varnishing. Use for this acrylic paints or regular gouache. The decoupage technique is also very popular, which will allow you to create beautiful drawing even without artistic ability.
Chair with backIf you have successfully completed the manufacture of a stool, we suggest making a “full-fledged” wooden chair with your own hands. For such a product, you can already choose more solid wood - oak or walnut, for example. In addition to lumber, you will need screws, wood glue, the tools described above and a cutter. If it is not possible to work on a machine, use a set of chisels and a hammer. For tinting you can use the same stain.
Below is a table describing the number and sizes of parts needed to make a chair with a backrest. At first glance, it seems that there are too many of them (especially when compared with a stool), but such a chair will turn out to be very comfortable and will serve for many decades.
To make the task easier for you, we have prepared a visual plan for subsequent assembly with numbered parts. In the future, to create your own exclusive furniture, you will have to make a drawing of a wooden chair yourself.
Progress: 
Making chairs from wood is a very interesting and creative process, which over time can develop into a useful hobby. Having learned how to make basic designs, you can diversify the process by adding your own details, using wood carving tools and combining various materials. Anyone can make wooden furniture, but you can start with an ordinary kitchen stool! Wooden chairs: photoWhat do you imagine when you hear the phrase “wooden chair”? An ordinary stool or a bulky, roughly processed structure? We have prepared a photo selection of original wooden chairs, which will significantly expand your understanding of this piece of furniture.
|
No matter what product it concerns, working with wood is always creative. After all, the material is alive, and it is quite easy to process it. In addition, if it is properly processed, it will serve you for a very long time and with high quality! And in an atmosphere with wooden products there will be comfort and warmth, and everything will be familiar. We suggest you consider how to make a wooden chair with your own hands, which can always be used for a variety of purposes, starting with decorative ones. In fact, this is not a labor-intensive or lengthy process at all. The main thing is to understand which model you prefer and what main functions the product will perform.
To make a good-quality chair, spare no expense, buy wood highest quality. Even in this case, it will cost less than buying a finished product from the manufacturer. Beech, pine, and oak are most suitable for these purposes. The frame is made of timber with a section of 40 by 40 and 40 by 60, and the planks and lintels will be made from boards one to one and a half centimeters thick. If you need a chair with both a back and a soft seat, also prepare a sheet of plywood.
Prepare the following tools:
The easiest way to make wooden furniture is a stool, that is, a chair without a back, which can have a hard or soft seat. Look at the photos and videos of their production, thanks to which everything will be crystal clear to you.
So, how to make a chair with your own hands? To do this, you need to take four beams, the cross-section of which is 40 by 40, and the length of each is 44 cm. When working with wood, you need to make sure that there are no burrs on it. Sandpaper will help with this. If there are strong roughnesses, apply coarser. If the roughness is not severe, then use fine sandpaper.
You also need to prepare four drawers; the chair seat will rest on these jumpers. The dimensions of the drawers are 2 by 5 by 28 cm. To strengthen the structure, prepare four jumpers measuring 3 by 2 by 28 cm.
It will be great if the seat is made of a solid wide board. If there is no such thing, take the boards and connect them with a “mortise and tenon”.
Make spikes on the legs and drawers (their ends). Accordingly, grooves are also needed on the legs. The tenons and grooves are 2 cm each, the second from 27 cm from the floor at a height.
To check how tightly each part fits together, they should be assembled as if into a single whole, and after that you can glue all the parts together with special wood glue, as the Levsha workshop does in St. Petersburg. Where the drawers are attached, strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws.
Each leg of the chair must be screwed with front side using self-tapping screws, recessing their caps into the wood, and masking the fastening points with putty and a plastic plug.
As a result, the stool needs to be painted, or simply varnished, this is at your discretion.
In the presence of milling machine You can make a wide variety of shapes and types of chairs.
If you have your own plot, and there are also cut down trees on it, using them, you will make very original logs of wood with soft pads. It’s also very interesting to process the trunk so that it has a back.
Also for handmade For chairs, you can use thick untreated branches, removing the peel from them and opening them with varnish. Here it is important to ensure the absence of knots and other protruding particles by opening it with paint and varnish material.
And here’s another option, if you make the most ordinary version of a chair into an ordinary rocking chair. To do this, attach the runners to the legs, and also make armrests.
For a child, the chair must be burr-free and safe - these are the most important factors!
Fishing is one of the popular male pastimes. Have a nice time on the shore of a pond. Experienced fishermen understand that comfortable fishing requires a comfortable place to sit. Sitting on logs is uncomfortable, and dragging a bulky chair behind you is also not an option. The ideal solution This question will be solved by a folding chair with a backrest, which is compact when folded, and when in use will help not load your back, which quickly gets tired from sitting for a long time.
The height of the chair can be 350 mm - 450 mm.
Store-bought options are not always suitable, since often these products are either not reliable or are very expensive. Therefore, the most rational solution is to make a folding chair for fishing with your own hands. A homemade chair will not only help you save money, but will also allow your imagination to run wild and make a good product from quality material. The advantages of such a chair are its compactness, stability, ease of transportation and simple manufacturing.
To make a folding chair, you can use any type of wood; birch will give it strength.
The most common options for chairs of this type are options with and without backrest.
At first glance, the drawing of this object rather resembles a Rubik's cube, and it is not at all clear how one can build something following it.
Remember that the middle bars are placed in the same way as the outer, wide ones.
Based on the fact that the option with wooden materials is the simplest and most budget-friendly, we will choose it. The basis of the chair will be wooden blocks, the dimensions of which will depend on the size of the particular chair. They will serve as legs and a supporting part for the back.
When starting assembly, first of all it is necessary to place the axle bolts on the legs of the chair, and the axle should not be placed in the middle of the legs, but closer to their top, otherwise the chair will be high and will not be particularly stable.
Without getting hung up on thoughts, let's move on to practical actions.
The materials for the seat and the most supporting part for the human back can be wooden slats or thick fabric, for example, tarpaulin. You need to choose a quality tree, it is advisable to opt for hard wood (birch, oak and others), since the service life of the product will depend on this. To connect parts in single design You will need fasteners, in our case these are bolts, nuts and washers for moving joints and wood screws for fixed ones.
When assembling, do not forget that the heads of the nuts and bolts must be recessed flush.
A folding chair is a very useful household device.
Of the tools to perform this work, a standard carpenter’s set, which is at the disposal of almost every owner at home, is sufficient:
Folding chair - perfect option for lovers of fishing and outdoor recreation.
The described product is made without a handle, however, this gap can be easily eliminated by installing portable handles between the inner legs.
Without much difficulty, you can make such a chair with your own hands, even without being a carpenter.
The process of making a chair is quite simple, and even a person without professional skills in this matter can handle it.
A folding chair is a very useful household device.
This piece of furniture is also indispensable in the kitchen and country house, since when folded it is quite compact and does not take up much space.
After the chair is ready, it is necessary to carry out the finishing work. First, you should get rid of all roughness and excess protrusions. The bolts are sunk into the base of the wood, a file and sandpaper eliminate defects, varnish will add smoothness and emphasize the natural color of the wood, which in itself will be beautiful. However, if your imagination requires more beauty, you can use the skills of burning and wood carving, or give the product more beauty. interesting shape still at the design stage.
All you need is woodworking equipment, which is available in almost every garage or workshop of a carpentry enthusiast, basic woodworking skills and, most importantly, a desire to craft.
It can be used in the garage, where there is always not enough space, taken to nature and simply, if necessary, used in the apartment.
By asking yourself how to make a fishing chair with your own hands, you can get a wonderful product that will faithfully serve for a long time. At the same time, you can save a lot of money and let your imagination run wild, creating a truly unique original work.
If necessary, it is possible to change the height of the assembled chair; to do this, between the middle bars of the seat it is enough to insert another bar with a cross-section of approximately 20x20 mm.
To make a folding chair, you can use any type of wood; birch will give it strength, but pine will significantly lighten the structure, but its joints are not durable and can quickly become loose.
However, the finished chair suggests a slightly different thought - everything ingenious is simple.
Posted from: 5-29-2016
Folding chair assembled and folded
The figure shows that the folded chair is very convenient to store and transport, for example on the roof of a car. Suitable for a summer cottage and for picnics in nature. The budget is much cheaper than store-bought options. The cost of the chair will be only the fasteners and wood.
To create a folding chair, you will need wooden blocks and slats for the seat.
You will also need:
Progress
First, we collect the following parts, according to the description.
Scheme drawing of a wooden folding chair
How to make a folding chair
In fact, the main thing for a craftsman is to have a drawing of the product at hand, and the description most often plunges him into a state of stupor. However, in addition to the diagram, I decided to also include a text manual for assembling the chair. I hope it will be clear...
Video on creating a folding chair
For those who are just starting their research in carpentry The best thing is to watch how professionals make products. This video shows how to make a folding chair - a stool without a back. A very functional and practical option for both home and garden. You can take this chair with you on fishing trips or on a picnic. When folded, it takes up little space.
