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» DIY swimming board with paddle. DIY surfboard - instructions for making your dreams come true. Boards are different

DIY swimming board with paddle. DIY surfboard - instructions for making your dreams come true. Boards are different

Surfboard is an oblong platform used for a sport called surfing(sliding on a wave). Surfboards are relatively lightweight but strong enough to support a person while riding a wave. Surfboards were invented in Hawaii many years ago. Wave riding was then known as " papa he'e nalu" in Hawaiian. Surfs were then made from local breeds tree, such as Koa. At the time, they were over 15 feet (4.5 meters) long, and since they were made of solid wood, they were super heavy. Also, at that time, the boards did not have fins, which help the board maintain directional stability. The surfboard was just going straight at that time.

Modern surfboards are made of polyurethane or expanded polystyrene, covered with layers of fiberglass fabric and polyester or epoxy resin. The result is a lightweight, durable surfboard that is buoyant and maneuverable. The latest developments in surfboard technology include the use of carbon fiber, but these boards are very flimsy and virtually impossible to repair. About 400 thousand surfboards are produced every year. Recently, some of them even include GPS navigators and other “necessary” mobile technologies.

Surfboard Parts:

Surfboard design. All about surfboards

Slipper (bottom of the board)

The surface of the board that lies on the water is usually concave, but sometimes convex.

Concave

Modern surfboards usually have a curved outline on the bottom of the board (slider) called concave. Concaves come in different shapes and are used depending on the types of surfboards. The concave is needed to direct water through the fins of the surfboard. Surfboard shapers sometimes experiment with deepening the concave to create a different board "glide" and "give." Basically, modern boards use a concave concave. Older boards used a convex concave.

Bottom of a surfboard. All about surfboards

Deck (Top or Deck)

The deck is the surface of the board on which the surfer stands. That part of the board by which you can understand how “worn out” the board is. If there are a lot of dents on it, then the board is pretty beat up. Although if there are no dents, this does not mean that the board is new 😉 Usually the deck is coated with special wax (surfwax) so that the feet do not slip. Wax happens varying degrees hardness, allowing it to be used in different temperature conditions.

Fins

For a surfboard, the fin is a directional stabilizer and is attached to the back of the board to prevent uncontrolled sliding. Example: a board without fins will handle almost like a car on summer tires in icy conditions. Many years ago, surfers stabilized their boards by sliding their back foot onto the edge of the board—like pushing down the edge. American surfer Tom Blake was the first to experiment with adding fins to surfboards, taking the keel from an old boat and attaching it to the board in 1935. This innovation revolutionized surfing, allowing surfers to control their boards much better, providing greater balance and the ability to make turns on the board. A system with one central fin on the board is called "Single Fin"

Single fin "Single Fin" All about surfboards

The type of modern surf fin was developed by George Greenogue in the 1960s. At this time we used one fin on the board. By the end of the 70s they began to use two. In October 1980, Simon Anderson came up with a version with three identical fins, which was then called " thruster"(propeller). He created this prototype and 30 years later his fin system is still the most popular. I will tell you about the history of the development of fins in a separate article. Here are the main three types:

Thrusters (Three fins)

Three fin "Thruster" system. All about surfboards

The three-fin design is the sum of longboard glide and shortboard performance all rolled into one. In the Thruster system, a single central fin is framed by two separate symmetrical fins. The camber of the slope of the front and top directs the energy from the incident wave to accelerate the board. The system is similar to the geometry of rocket nozzles and works the same way. The fastest fins in my opinion.

Quad (Four fins)

Quad fin system. All about surfboards

The four fins are arranged in two pairs on the edges of the tail, they quickly accelerate the board downwards, but tend to lose their energy through the turns of the board. Energy also disappears when the board is coming up onto the wave because the fins lose vectoring energy from the advancing water towards the back of the fin. A more stable system adds control over the board. For example, I put 4 fins on my standard board when I go for bigger waves.

Nubster

Nubster fin system. All about surfboards

This fin was created by professional surfer Sean Mattison as a tail stabilizer fin. Similar to a guitar pick. It is placed as the fifth fin. It is believed that such a fin helped Kelly Slater win competitions in New York and Portugal in 2011.

Lish

The surfboard is attached to the surfer's leg using a leash (leash, special rope). This prevents your board from getting carried away by the waves or hitting another surfer or someone in the water. Modern leashes are made from urethane. One end of the leash has a strip of Velcro and is attached to the surfer's leg, while the opposite end has a strap attached to the tail of the surfboard.

Lish first appeared in 1971. Before this, surfers who lost their boards swam after them. This posed a danger to other surfers and swimmers. The invention of leech is credited to Pat O'Neill. Its original design consisted of a surgical cord attached to a board with a suction cup. In Malibu, at an international surfing competition in 1971, Pat suggested using a leash and entered the race with him. He was disqualified and ridiculed, calling him " Kook"(in surfing slang, a kook is a horse who does something clumsily, for example, waxes the slip of a surfboard). However, over the next year, the leash became ubiquitous in the surfing world.

A typical example of a person who might be called "Kook" :)

Jack O'Neal lost his left eye in the surf because the early models of the leash were too elastic and forced the board back at the surfer. Subsequent models were made from less elastic materials such as bungees.

Ultimately, urethane became the primary material for making leashes. The design of such a leash was patented by David Hettricke. The use of leash is still the source of some controversy in surfing today. Although, at present, they are accepted as mandatory equipment for those who ride a shortboard. Many longboarders refuse to wear a leash, claiming that it prevents them from walking up and down the board and doing certain maneuvers. Lishes are available in different variations: thick and thin, long and short. I trust these companies: Creatures, FCS, Rip Curl.

"Cup" for lichen

Also known as a "leash mortise", it is a recess in the deck of the board close to the tail which contains a small metal rod into which a short cord can be hooked to secure the leash.

Nose boards

Front tip of the board. It can be pointed or rounded and can be steep or flat (also called a rocker angle). A very delicate part of the board. You always have to be careful with her. There are models with the nose of the board cut off. More will be written about the rocker later.

Tail

The shape of the tail affects how the board reacts to the surfer's movements and rides the wave. The tail shape varies in the following basic variations: square, pointed, dovetail, diamond shape and so on. Each of these in turn has its own family of smaller variants.

Foot mat (pad)

There are several names for this device, which is glued to the top of a surfboard to increase grip and allow surfers to have more control and perform more complex maneuvers. Pads are used on almost all models of boards and are usually glued in the tail area under the back foot, and sometimes in the center of the board under the front foot.

Rails.

These are the edges of the board. A rounded rail is called "soft", while a straighter rail is called "hard". Larger, thicker rails contain more foam volume, allowing for more buoyancy along the edge of the board, while sharper, narrower rails have less volume, allowing the board to "sink" more easily while still pushing on them to turn. When riding a wave, one rail is always in the water, while the other hangs freely in the air. A turn on the board occurs when moving from one rail through the tail to another rail.

Rocker

This is the angle of the vertical curve between the nose and tail of the board. The rocker can be either steep (highly curved, like a bow) or soft (less curved, almost straight). It can be continuous (one curve between the tip of the nose and the tip of the tail) or stepped (a flat area in the middle of the board). Board nose rocker- This is the curve between the nose and the middle part of the board. A rear rocker board- this is the curve that is between the tail and the flat part (middle) of the surf. Increasing nose rocker helps her burrow less; Also, larger boards require a larger front rocker angle. The higher rear rocker angle adds agility and keeps the tail responsive in tight turns. Flatter rockers help on flatter sections of the wave, while steep rockers increase the board's resistance to water when sliding, and also have a smaller turning radius when reaching planing speed!

The board rails and deck can also be with rocker. If the board has a flat deck (top), then this increases its flexibility (these boards are also lighter), while a board with a convex deck is stiffer in the water. This is called the "responsiveness" of the board: thinner boards are more responsive. But they also suffer more from blows.

Stringer

In board construction, a stringer is the core that runs down the middle of the deck from the bow to the fins. Usually made of wood, sometimes carbon fiber. The stringer serves to increase the strength of the surf, but reduces its flexibility. Some surfboards have multiple stringers.

Surfboard design

Polyurethane(P.U.) boards

Surfboards are usually made using polyurethane foam. First, the foam is cast into a “rectangle” or “blank”, which is then shaped into a surfboard. Shapers are engaged in the production of surfboards from these blanks. ( Who are shapers? People whoturn a piece of foam into a beautiful board). Shapers plan and cut this blank until they give it correct form. This sub-board is then covered with one or more layers of fiberglass fabric and resin. It is at this stage that the inserts for the fins and leash are installed. There is another way to make boards using epoxy resin and polystyrene foam. By the way, in recent years, surfboards made from balsa and polystyrene have become increasingly popular. Although foam ingots are typically processed by hand, use special machines to shape them is becoming increasingly popular. Vacuum forming and modern sandwich construction technologies borrowed from other industries have also become commonplace in the surf industry. Many surfers now ride epoxy boards. They are especially popular among new surfers as they are more durable.

Balsa wood boards

The history of surfboards made from this wood originates from the Hawaiians. Being lightweight and durable, balsa wood has long been considered an ideal material for making surfboards. But shapers weren't able to use this fragile wood until almost after World War II, when fiberglass was invented and they could coat this board so it wouldn't pick up water. These boards are very light and not very strong.

Hollow wooden boards

Hollow surfboard - production. All about surfboards

These surfboards are made from wood and epoxy resin or oil (an alternative to epoxy). There is now a return to using wood for surfboards after foam became dominant in the 1950s. Hollow wooden surfboards have no foam in their construction. (Boards made using foam and wood are commonly known as veneer surfboards.) Various methods fabrications are used to create a cavity inside surfboards and lighten the weight of the finished board. As a general rule, hollow wooden surfboards are typically 30% to 300% heavier than standard “foam boards.” The main source of inspiration, besides of course their beauty, is that it is more environmentally friendly clean method making surfboards (compared to epoxy resin and polyurethane), which uses fast-growing wood from paulownia, cedar, spruce, and mahogany.

Types of surfboards:

Shortboards

In the late 1960s, Gordon Clark found optimal formula polyurethane foam. The boards became lighter and began to be shortened. They were called shortboards. They were 6 or 7 feet long (about 2 meters) with a pointed nose and a rounded or square tail, with three fins, sometimes two or even five. A shortboard is more maneuverable than other types of surfboards, but does not have enough "float" (displacement) due to its smaller size, making it harder to catch waves on a shortboard. This board requires steeper, larger and more powerful waves and a very late start (jumping on the board) when the surfer catches the wave at the critical moment when the wave has almost collapsed. Now shortboards can be as short as you like, because there are also children's boards and boards with a cut off nose. In the modern sense, a shortboard is a sharp, lightweight board around 5-6 feet. For example, in this photo I have a 5 foot 9 inch shortboard. With a weight of 65 kg, I feel very comfortable riding it.

Surfboard - shortboard. All about surfboards

Hybrid

Modern hybrid boards are typically 6' to 8'6" (1.8-2.3m) in length with a more rounded profile and tail shape. Boards for small waves with any fin setup. This is more of a board for riding for fun rather than a “sport mode” or tricks. Popular with beginner surfers and generally where it is difficult to catch a wave on a short board (the wave is flat).

Fish

A board up to 6 feet (1.8 m) that originated from Kneeboards in 1967 thanks to Steve Lees. Typically, a “fish” or “fish” has two fins and a swallow tail. The board is very good for small waves. The fish became popular in the early 2000s after legendary surfer Tom Curren rode it at the ASP World Championships in Hossegor. Please note, any type of surfboard (shortboard or mini longboard) can have a fishtail and they are commonly referred to as a fishtail, but they do not have the properties of a traditional "retro" fishtail.

Funboard

Funboard combines elements of both shortboard and longboard. Typically averaging 7 to 8 feet (2.1 to 2.4 m). The funboard's design makes it easier to catch waves than a shortboard, and its shape makes it more maneuverable than a longboard. A popular surfboard, especially among beginners or those moving from a longboard to the more challenging shortboard. A great combination of longboard speed and shortboard maneuverability.

Gun (gun)

Big wave board, 7 to 12 feet (2.1 to 3.7 m) long. They have a thin, almost needle-like profile with one, three or four fins. This board has the appearance of a shortboard in the size of a longboard. These boards are used for riding in places where there are huge waves, such as Waimea Bay, Jaws, Mavericks, etc.

Longboards:

Longbods are surfboards with primarily a single fin and a large, rounded nose, ranging from 8 to 12 feet (2.4 to 3.7 m) in length. Noseriders are a class of longboards that allow the surfer to reach up to the tip of the board's nose and ride it. They range from 8 to 14 feet (2.4 to 4.3 m) in length. The advantage of a longboard is its significant buoyancy. It can be used on waves that are too small for a shortboard. Longboards are also more suitable for beginners due to their size and ease of catching waves. Longboards are more stable boards than shortboards.

Surfboard - longboard. All about surfboards

Classic Longboards (History of Surfing)

Longboards are the original and first type of board used for standing skating. Since the sixth century according to the Gregorian calendar. The ancient Hawaiians used 8 to 30 foot (2.4 to 9.1 m) solid wooden planks weighing up to 120 kg. This ancient art was called "Hoe he'e Nalu". Surfing was brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the Polynesians and has since become popular throughout the world. Men and women, rich and poor rode them. But the longest of the boards (Olo, "The Olo") was reserved for the royal family. You couldn't ride on a board bigger than the king's. In the 19th century, some Western missionaries visiting the islands viewed surfing as sinful. Surfing then almost completely died out. Now some shapers are making replicas of ancient boards to further explore the roots of surfing.

By the early 20th century, very few people were riding, mostly in Waikiki. There, surfing began to develop again. Beginning in 1912, Duke Kahanamoku, a Hawaiian Olympic swimmer, brought surfing to the continental United States and Australia. Because of this, the Duke is considered the "Father of Modern Surfing". From that moment on, surfing became integral part beach lifestyle. In Malibu (Los Angeles), the local beach was so popular among those "early" surfers that it gave its name to a type of longboard. In the 1920s, plywood boards called Hollowboards came into fashion. These were surfboards that were 15 to 20 feet (4.6 to 6.1 m) long and relatively lightweight. During the 1950s, surfing's popularity skyrocketed and it gained recognition as a sport. Then they began to make boards from balsa wood.

The introduction of polyurethane foam and fiberglass was a technological leap in board design. Longboarding changed in the 1960s. It was no longer made of balsa wood, but of fiberglass and polyurethane foam. In the 1960s, the shortboard, averaging 6 ft 6 in (1.98 m), emerged, allowing surfers to make tighter turns, quicker maneuvers and achieve higher speeds. This “shortboard revolution” has almost made longboards “obsolete” buckets :) But in the early 1990s, the longboard made a comeback, integrating a number of design features, invented during the "shortboard revolution". Surfers have rediscovered the special “glide” of a longboard and the pleasure of classic maneuvers that are not possible on a shortboard. There are still debates about what is cooler: long or short, but in my opinion, the choice of board depends on what kind of waves are on the spot today :)

Modern longboards

The modern longboard has undergone many changes since its early models in the past. Today, the longboard is much lighter than its predecessors. Its polyurethane foam construction reduces drag when driving through waves. Today, longboards are typically 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3.0 m) long, although some models are up to 12 feet (3.7 m) long. The classic single fin longboard retains much of its design, but the weight has changed and it has gained significant buoyancy. Due to latest achievements in the field of technology, the longboard family has expanded.

The 2+1 longboard system is more maneuverable than a regular single fin longboard. They are sometimes called "single fins with training wheels." The 2 + 1 system actually has the features of a classic longboard and a thruster system. 2+1 boards have the rigid stability of a classic longboard, and merge the strength and stability of a thruster system. The fins can be removed if desired.

Mini Tanker

The mini tanker is a shortened form of the longboard that uses the same design elements as the longboard + improved maneuverability due to the shorter shape. These boards are commonly used by women, children and in teaching.

Malibu

This longboard is named after Malibu, California. This shape is narrower than most longs and is slightly curved at the tip and tail for added maneuverability. This classic shape was very popular due to its maneuverability and performance. Classic longboard tricks can be performed on the Malibu: “Hang Fives” and “Hang Tens” (nose riding), riding in a different stance, riding on your head and so on.

The famous Duke and the Olo board. All about surfboards

Longboards were originally reserved for Hawaiian royalty. These are wooden planks over 24 feet (7.3 m) long and weighing about 90 kg.

Alaya

The shaper sands the alaya board. All about surfboards

Traditional wooden surfboards without fins, popular among the ancient Hawaiians. Measuring approximately 17 feet (5.2 m) and weighing 200 pounds (91 kg). Modern alayas are much thinner and lighter. Many are only 3/4 inch thick and can be about 6 feet long. Typically the wood used is paulownia, cedar and other varieties suitable for salty ocean waters. There are tails different styles. A very difficult board to ride! Popular with fashionistas or true surfers.

Tandem

Surfing - tandem. All about surfboards

Riding a large volume board together. Duke Kahanamoku and Isabel Letham were the first to ride this way in Australia. Usually accompanied by elements from figure skating :)

Other types of surfboards include bodyboards, SUP boards, and so on. These types of surfing will be discussed another time.

If you've read this far, you now know enough about surfboards! Writing this article was not an easy task, so I will be very pleased if you share it with your friends as a thank you. Information from Wikipedia was also used for this article.

Sergey Mysovsky.

Liked this.

My friends started this hobby a few years ago with rope and old door from the wardrobe. They've come a long way since then. At first there was only a rope attached to the bridge and a handle on the board.

This allowed for nothing more than to stand on a board that scours from side to side along the river.

The next step was to use two ropes - one for the board and one to hold on to, which allowed for turns.

But it was dangerous, the rope could get tangled around your feet and if you fell into the water, it would be better if someone ended up with a knife on the bridge.

Once I almost drowned, I realized that something needed to change, and I decided that a leash attached to my ankle was the best option. Because when you fall into the water, you simply let go of the handle and swim to the shore.

This is my third DIY surfboard, the first one was too small, the second one worked great, but didn’t last long without reinforcing fibers.


This is the pinnacle of DIY surfboard technology, and you'll see it for yourself!

Step 1: What you need

Related materials:

3 sheets 175cm x 70cm, 3mm plywood, in my case poplar
6 pads 180cm for longitudinal clamping
more pads or something similar to perpendicular clamps
about 1.5 kg epoxy resin (you probably don't need all of this, but in case of waste, spills, etc., it's better to have more)
woven fiberglass - about 5m2 (one sheet at the top, one or two at the bottom, and many around the edges)
small piece plastic pipe 8 mm in diameter (to reinforce the hole for the leader)
sugar
paint (optional)

Tools:

Workbench (at least 60cm x 170cm, this is the same as mine)
clamps, lots of clamps
jigsaw
clamps
simple grinding equipment
more clamps
Tools for mixing and applying resin
drill (8 mm)
Did I mention to make sure you have enough clamps?

For the practical part of surfing:

Surfing leash
water tow rope (I've made these myself before, but the ones you can buy are nicer to hold)
river with bridge

Step 2: Laminating the Surfboard into a Curved Shape


On the outer end edges of the workbench, we place risers, pieces of wood about 7-8 cm in height, which will give us a deflection of the plywood sheet when clamped with clamps (the height of the sheet rises from the middle) of about 5 cm when the resin dries.

In addition to them, we place slats to support the edges and the middle (it wouldn’t hurt to add more, but it will be more difficult to push through)

Now we mix the resin, apply it to everyone internal surfaces sheets and begin to clamp.




Add clamps and extra weight wherever you can, especially around the edges where we will later cut out the shape of the surfboard.

Step 3: Shaping your own surfboard

After waiting for the resin to polymerize, you can begin marking the mold.


A string tied to a pencil will allow you to outline acceptable radii.

I used photos of wakeskates and wakeboards as a reference, but in the end the exact shape doesn't really matter of great importance. One time we used the cabinet doors for surfing, wow!

Cut out the shape with a jigsaw set to 45° and sand until smooth.

Step 4: Add Strength to the Board with Fiberglass

I built a jig to hold the board, but you can do without one (just place suitable scraps of wood under the board).

Now apply a layer of resin to the board, apply a layer of fiberglass and start smoothing it with a brush soaked in resin. Try to completely saturate the fabric with resin and roll it tightly to the surface of the board. Then cuts are made at the corners and the edges are turned in. Repeat the same on the other side.

Now add strips of fiberglass around the edges. The bigger, the better.

Always use protective equipment when working with epoxy compounds and fiberglass!

Step 5: Finishing Touches

Time to get creative!

You'll probably want to give your DIY surfboard a coat of paint with one or two coats of epoxy.


Now is also the time to drill a hole at one end of the board to attach the leash. I glued a small piece of plastic pipe into the hole for strength.

When applying the final coat of epoxy to the top of the board, be sure to spread a layer of sugar over the entire surface while it is still sticky. This will give good grip between your feet and board in the water.

Step 6: It's time to surf!

So this is best board DIY surfboard is lightweight (for its size) and still stiff, but there's still plenty of room for improvement.

Enjoy!

Another tip: Dress up in swim trunks before you try surfing :)

Based on materials from www.instructables.com

In this article we will talk about all types of surfs and how to make them yourself. In addition, we will tell experimenters and extreme sports enthusiasts about creating a board equipped with its own engine.

Boards are different

Surfs are divided into several types according to stability, maneuverability, and functionality:

  1. Longboards. In appearance, they resemble a small boat and are the most stable, so they are well suited for beginners, helping to maintain balance.
  2. Minimalibu. They are even more suitable for developing surfer skills - on a voluminous and moderately long board it is easy to feel the wave.
  3. Evolutiv. Suitable for surfers making progress. They perfectly combine stability and maneuverability.
  4. Ghana. Their element is big waves. The most functional of the entire range.
  5. Shortboards. Short and narrow surf for real pros. It is distinguished by its technicality and maneuverability.

How to make it yourself

The most convenient in self-production- fiberglass and epoxy surfacing.

To do this, you will need a polyurethane foam mold, polyurethane resin and fiberglass (first option) or EPS resin and a polystyrene foam blank (second option). In both cases you will need a long wooden plank- the future stringer, thanks to which the surfboard gains rigidity.

We make them with our own hands like this:

  1. Cut the workpiece in half and insert the stringer strip.
  2. Give the board a shape - the shape you need, which will influence the “character” of your board. At this stage, the length, width, thickness of the board, its type, the shape of its deck and bottom, rails, tail and nose are determined. A DIY surfboard is made according to the contours of wooden patterns. It is shaped with a saw, sandpaper and a plane.
  3. Write the size on the already formed board and leave your signature - this is the tradition.
  4. Mark the spots for the fins and paint your creation.
  5. Place fiberglass over the design and begin the final stage - lamination. This is a uniform application of resin with a spatula over the entire surface of the board. After it dries, drill holes for the fins and fins.
  6. Polish the surfboard with sandpaper, removing any remaining resin, cover it with a glossy resin coating and leave it to dry for a day.

All! DIY surfboard made.

Motor surfboard

A do-it-yourself surfboard with a motor is made from simple, one might say, improvised materials:

  • graphite foam;
  • plywood (3-4 mm);
  • polyurethane foam with adhesive effect;
  • and, in fact, the engine.

Instructions for use:

  1. The “fish” shape is most suitable for this design. Shape the foam into the outline of a “fish”.
  2. Make a recess in it the size of a sealed box, where the engine and the PowerBank feeding it will be placed.
  3. It should come from the box and the motor (from a drill, for example), to which it needs to be attached. You can also build a steering wheel.
  4. We recommend using a pump motor of at least 200 watts and 2800 rpm. As already mentioned, it will be powered by a PowerBank (you can use one or a pair of batteries).
  5. The engine must be connected to the batteries through a waterproof switch.

This is a simple way to make a surfboard with your own hands. We hope this article gives you some inspiration to create the surf of your dreams.

All surfers sooner or later start to think about how the board is built, the components that make it up, the materials the surf is made from and how surfboards are made. Some just for the sake of interest, and some with the goal of better understanding what aspects of a surfer’s structure influence its behavior. The purpose of this article is to introduce you to how and from what materials boards are made.

History of surfboards

The history of surfing began in Polynesia around 400 AD. The Polynesians brought the sport with them when they first settled in Hawaii. The first Hawaiian boards were made from different varieties wood growing on the island. The surfboards were hand-carved from wood, then painted, and finished using natural plant juices and oils.
The longest boards were called 'olos, their length ranged from 3.6 to 6 meters, and their weight was about 90 kilograms. Experiments with wooden planks in the 20-30s of the 20th century led to the emergence of a hollow surfboard design and the use of mahogany or balsa for its manufacture.

The first fiberglass board (from the English Fiberglass - fiberglass) was made in 1946. It consisted of two hollow molded parts with a mahogany lath located in the center to strengthen the structure. In 1949, Bob Simmons made the first surfboard with a foam core sandwiched between thin layers of plywood veneer and topped with resin.
In 1958, boards were born modern design, when Hobie Alter began producing surfboards with a shaped polyurethane foam core coated with multiple layers of polyester resin. Today, the vast majority of boards are designed this way.

How surfboards are made, their structure and design

Modern boards use a rigid polyurethane or polystyrene foam core coated with fiberglass and resins. If a stringer is involved in the design, it is made of mahogany, linden or spruce. The fins are made of wood or several layers of fiberglass and resin.

Shapers (those people who make surfboards) are constantly experimenting with board designs. Most surfboards these days are handcrafted. Every design, every shape - as a rule, individual development individual shaper. Over the past 4 decades, boards have become shorter, then longer, and then shorter again. Two fins replaced one, and these, in turn, were replaced by three fins.
And today, shapers continue to experiment with surfboard design, as they make surfboards better and better each time, trying to invent “the one.” For example, some pro surfers use five to ten boards, depending on their riding style or the type of wave at a particular spot.

How surfboards are made: the production process

  1. The technique and materials may vary slightly between shapers, but in general the surfboard production process is as follows.
  2. The foam core, or blank board (blank) - the first rough blank of the surf - is poured into cement molds, covered on the inside with special paper that prevents the foam from sticking to the cement. The two halves of the cement mold are pressed together and heated, then liquid polyurethane foam is poured into the mold. High temperatures start chemical reaction, the result of which is the hardening of the polyurethane and its transformation into hard white foam. After 25 minutes, the workpiece is removed from the mold and left to cool. When the workpiece has completely hardened, it is cut in half, a stringer is inserted between the two halves and all three parts are glued together. The stringer gives the board additional rigidity.
  3. At the next stage, the blank board is shaped (shaped). The contours of the surf are outlined on the blank using wooden patterns. Excess material is sawed off along the contours with a saw. Then the shaper, starting from the bottom of the board, uses an electric planer to give it a more precise shape, after which the surfboard is turned over and they begin to work on the other side. Once the board has been shaped, the rails (the edges of the surf) are shaped with coarse sandpaper, brought to the final shape with a zero, the place for the fin is marked and the author’s signature is placed with the dimensions.
  4. The board is now ready to be formed into an outer, hard shell of fiberglass and resin. First, the future surfer is blown with a stream of compressed air. Afterwards the design is applied directly onto the foam acrylic paint using an airbrush. Then, when the paint is dry, the board is covered with fiberglass and cut to shape. The surfboard deck is laminated first. Polyester resin is mixed with a hardener, this triggers a chemical reaction that causes the resin to harden within 15 minutes. The resin is spread over the surface of the board using a rubber scraper. The fiberglass must be coated with a very even layer of resin. When the top of the board is finished, the process is repeated on the other side. Next, for greater strength and wear resistance, a second layer is applied to both sides. The next layer of resin is called filler. It has this name because it fills all the unevenness of the previous layer. This resin is mixed with a hardener in a different proportion and hardens completely. Also at this stage, holes are drilled for the inserts for the fins and leash.
  5. Any excess resin should now be removed as much as possible using sandpaper.
  6. Final processing. Compressed air All dust is removed from the board and the surf is covered with the last layer of a special glossy resin. The board is left to dry for the next 12 hours.

Now you know how surfboards are made inside and out!

Quality control

The board is inspected several times during production. After the form is removed from the cement mold, it is carefully examined for defects. During shaping (shaping), the board is illuminated with a special light on the sides so that the shaper can notice any unevenness. After final processing, the board is once again examined to ensure it meets the shaper's quality standards.

What's next or the future of surf construction

Experiment with board design, materials and technological process led to the emergence of new approaches to the production of surfboards. Each of them has its own pros and cons

In the field of surfboard design, the use of computers has greatly simplified the board design process. Working with special software, the designer can develop a three-dimensional model of the future surf, easily change its dimensions and contours, and then print the templates necessary for its manufacture. This is a significant time saver compared to the traditional method, but many shapers still prefer to rely on their eye and hands to judge the quality of a new board.

As for materials, recently more and more shapers have begun to switch to using polystyrene foam instead of polyurethane and epoxy resin instead of polyester. The advantage of these materials is that the structure of the board is lighter, strengthened and rigid. Besides, epoxy resin less harmful to environment. The disadvantages are a much more complex process for preparing the resin, a lot of time spent on manufacturing and high price production.

In the process of shaping the board, innovations also appeared - the use of special computer-numerical-controlled (CNC) shaping machines, which can give the board the desired shape in 25 minutes instead of the several hours required for self made. The disadvantage of this technology is the high cost of the machine and the need to reprogram it to produce a surfboard with a different design. Ultimately, as surfers gain experience, they will order more and more custom boards at reasonable prices.

Well, and finally, a video about how surfboards are made :)

Windsurfing is one of the most exciting and... Windsurfing is a hybrid of surfing and sailing. To ride the waves, athletes use a windsurf (sometimes called a windsurfer, just like the athlete himself). This is a floating board to which a mast with a sail is attached.

You can make your own windsurfing board

This board does not have a steering wheel. The athlete learns to control the projectile by adjusting the direction of the sail and the positions of his own body.

No less exciting than surfing, but less expensive than sailing boats. Moreover, make a windsurf for this type of activity active sports you can do it yourself at home. True, for this you must be able to handle wood well and it is advisable to know at least in theory the basics of elementary shipbuilding.

Before describing the process of producing a floating product, you need to decide what materials you will need.

Materials

Stock up on everything in advance necessary materials and tools to be less fussy and more integral. Try to be careful when purchasing material. The process of creating a surf sail is already quite labor-intensive. And buying missing products will only add to the hassle.

So, before you start making the board, buy the following consumables:

  • two large sheets plywood. It is necessary that the thickness of each of them reaches 4 millimeters;
  • a sheet of plywood 1 centimeter thick;
  • slats 20 by 20 millimeters. You will need about seven pieces;
  • seven meters of thin slats;
  • slats 2.5 meters long, 10 by 30 mm. You need to purchase six pieces;
  • a small piece of plywood up to two millimeters thick;
  • epoxy waterproof glue;
  • nails;
  • construction foam;
  • fiberglass;
  • waterproof dyes;
  • metal strips;
  • a small piece of brass;
  • duralumin strip 4–5 mm thick.

After purchasing all these goods, you can begin the process of creating a sailing shell.

Frame

The first step is to make a board - the body of the product. You can see the dimensions of its parts and the principle of their relationship below in Figure 1.

Keelsons

When making a surf with your own hands, we take plywood and cut two keelsons. They can be made using a regular saw. For convenience, first draw the outlines of one keelson and cut it out, and make the second board in the image and likeness of the first.

The keelsons need to be connected along the contour. This is done using slats. Don't forget that the product will have a mast. Leave room for her. The future level of controllability of the surf depends on how you secure the mast and centerboard.

When creating the board, be sure to cut small holes in the keelsons. This will help the device ventilate in the future.

Most likely, the sheets of plywood you purchased will not be long enough to create a solid structure. But the board can be glued together. Use a rasp to process the parts to be glued. The gluing areas need to be processed so that they become rough (this will increase the level of adhesion). After this, grease the board around the edges. epoxy glue and connect the plywood sheets. A rod can be inserted between them to determine the internal height of the projectile. Overlapping areas plywood construction needs to be nailed down. When the workpiece dries, the sharp tips of the nails will need to be bitten off. The lath is also removed when dry.

Deck and bottom

They can also be made. This is done according to the drawings. These cut parts must first be glued to the keelson and then secured with nails. Please ensure that the fastenings are located from each other at a distance not exceeding thirty centimeters.

The sides need to be filled with construction foam. In the worst case, you can use the packaging form of this material.

Lubricate the foam with epoxy to secure it. Glue must be applied to each piece. After this, the material should “look” behind the board by half a centimeter.

When the glue dries, you will need to give the foam an oval shape. This is easy to do with sandpaper.

The resulting structure must be “packed” in fiberglass. You can use a wood stapler for this.

Holes

After upholstery, it is necessary to prepare holes in the places to which the fin, steps and centerboard will be attached.

Painting

Now you can give the device the desired appearance by painting the board with waterproof paint. If you saturate the plywood with drying oil after painting, it will last longer.

Mast

The mast created can be made from long slats. In principle, they can be replaced with a duralumin tube.

When creating a mast from slats, they need to be glued together according to the drawings presented in Figure 1 and processed.

After manufacturing, the mast must be tested for strength. If the device turns out to be too flexible, coat it with epoxy glue and cover it with one layer of fiberglass. This should increase the elasticity of the product.

The mast must be coated with water-repellent varnish.

Make flats on its thick ends. Each will have a hinge attached. You can see its device in Figure 2.

The hinge cube is made of brass, and the metal parts are made of metal strips, the thickness of which is 2–4 millimeters.

Geek

10 by 30 millimeter slats are also useful for it. They need to be laid on the tsulaga and precisely adjusted to one another. After this, the surface of the slats must be sanded with sandpaper and coated with glue. Now they can be clamped with tsulaga.

The outer frame must be made from prepared duralumin.

Fin and centerboard

The centerboard of your surfboard should be movable. The athlete must be able to slide it in and out. It can be made from plywood 1 centimeter thick. You will need to cut out two identical shapes and then glue them together.

The centerboard feather needs to be shaped like a drop. After this, saturate the centerboard with drying oil.

Glue the fin from three- or four-millimeter plywood.

Sail

The sail is the engine of your surf. Therefore, it is advisable not to save on it. Don't skimp and buy this part in the store.

However, if you decide to create this part of the projectile with your own hands, do it carefully and carefully.

Material

Choose a synthetic material with minimal ventilation. It will not gain much weight when wet and will cope well with the role of a “tractor”.

Dacron is ideal. You can also use a thin tarp.

For loyal riding conditions, you can choose jacket and raincoat fabrics, as well as cotton materials. But when using them, remember the need for additional reinforcement. False seams will help you with this.

Cut

The sail should be cut after the mast is installed on board. This way you will know the exact required dimensions and even calculate the deflection.

To cut the fabric, lay it on the floor. Determine the luff lengths, sail angles and draw on the material. Roulette will help you with this. Hammer a nail at the tops of the corners. Tie a thread to each nail. Pull it towards each corner to form a triangle.

The length of the thread on each side of the triangle should match the length of the luff.

Transfer the dimensions of the sickles from the drawing. Using a regular felt-tip pen, you can outline the maximum sail dimensions for yourself. Don't forget about hem allowances. On average, one allowance can reach half a meter.

After installing the sail, the product is considered ready.

If you know a little more about how to create a windsurf yourself, please share your experience in the comments.

Fair wind to you!