Drainage at home: do-it-yourself, step-by-step instructions, videos, tips and tricks. From this article, you will learn the features of such a design as a drainage system at home: a drainage device at the foundation of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements for storm sewers. You will be able to study in detail the technology of creating a wall-type drainage system, as well as get acquainted with the prices for this type of work performed by turnkey specialists.
The drainage system is equipped to protect the house from storm, melt and groundwater
Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but both technologies are not mutually exclusive. In combination, they allow you to create a reliable protection of the base of a residential building from moisture.
Drainage system for a private house
The organization of a drainage system for a house, or, as it is also called, a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in a suburban area or completely eliminate excess liquid.
Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. Outside, flood waters and accumulations of precipitation can affect the base. From the inside, groundwater causes flooding if it lies close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection is useful.
Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the foundation of a residential building, its basement and basement from water penetration for a long time. Long-term exposure to moisture eventually exposes weaknesses and gaps in the waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage at a high level of groundwater.
Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy the concrete foundation of the building, but also provoke the appearance of other negative impact factors. These factors include putrefactive processes, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in the supporting structures of the building.
Wall drainage is necessary to drain ground, rain and melt water from the foundation
This result can be caused both by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, and by errors made during calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. The advantage of such a system is that the installation of wall foundation drainage can be carried out even after all construction work on the construction of the building has already been completed.
Installation for private houses is appropriate in such cases:
Residential building foundation drainage design
Note! Drainage schemes around the housemust take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and recreational areas that have asphalt or paved tiling.
Properly making drainage around the house, as well as installing a storm system in the garden, is quite easy. The main thing is:
Drainage system around the house
The type of system is selected based on what conditions the territory has. The more acute the problem with the flooding of the site, the more decisive the protection measures must be.
The main types of surface systems:
Linear drainage around the house
Useful advice! Point and line systems can be combined to provide a combined drainage solution that improves the drainage efficiency of the area around the building.
The price of drainage around the turnkey house, of course, is much higher than the cost of similar work done by one's own hands. But in this case you get:
The cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):
To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the price of installing each additional storm water inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles / piece.
In order to make a more accurate calculation of the cost, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (a storm water inlet should be purchased for each riser), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (based on this indicator, the molding of the system is determined).
Useful advice! If you want to organize a system for the removal of storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to shallow storm water (up to 1 m). It can only function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below freezing of the soil (more than 1.5 m) will cope with rain and melt water. This type of sewage can be used in combination with cable heated gutter systems.
All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:
Scheme of the drainage system at their summer cottage
For the organization of storm and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:
In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.
The wall drainage layout implies digging in and arranging a clay castle through the entire foundation around the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This type of scheme is recommended to be used if the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement. At the same time, the depth of drainage around the house determines the level of placement of floors. Pipes are placed approximately 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.
The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:
Ring (trench) drainage - most suitable for sandy surfaces
The ring drainage scheme around the house involves laying trenches at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the area located between the base of the house and the trench, it is necessary to organize a clay castle.
Useful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. You need to step back from it by 0.5 m. Thanks to this, you exclude the possibility of flooding the basement, as well as basements.
As in the case of storm drains, the prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building along the perimeter, but also on the level of deepening of the drainage structure.
Arrangement of the ringdrainage around the house: the cost of workFull construction:
Installation for this system of a collector well, equipped with a pumping station, will cost about 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.
The calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the foundation of the house (the level of penetration depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also consider the necessary indentation from the wall).
Arrangement of wallhome drainage: price of workFull construction:
When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.
To arrange the drainage of the blind area around the house or other similar system, soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data become known even during the construction of the foundation part of the building. For this, several wells (4-5 wells) are drilled in the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the terrain is studied.
On clayey and loamy soil types, moisture from precipitation and snowmelt accumulates in the upper layer of the soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater passes at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.
Drainage around the house allows you to slow down the process of foundation destruction due to groundwater
Useful advice! If you are not confident in your own abilities, entrust the choice of a drainage system to professionals. In case of problems, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.
Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightfreezing depth calculation:
The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.
Before installing a drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to do a number of preparatory work, since this design will be adjacent to the foundation part of the building. Preparation includes:
The specific gravity of the soil can affect the pipe laying pattern. Data on the main categories of soils are placed in the table.
Distances between drains fordo-it-yourself drainage devices around the house:
| Pipeline installation depth, cm | Optimum distance between pipes, cm | ||||
| Light soil types | Soils with average values | Heavy clay soils | |||
| 450 | 450-550 | 400-500 | 200-300 | ||
| 600 | 650-750 | 500-650 | 300-400 | ||
| 900 | 900-1100 | 700-900 | 400-550 | ||
| 1200 | 1200-1500 | 1000-1200 | 450-700 | ||
| 1500 | 1550-1800 | 1200-1500 | 650-900 | ||
| 1800 | 1800-2200 | 1500-1800 | 700-1100 | ||
Useful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, consider not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils, the optimal pipe laying step is no more than 50 m, on clay soils - 10 m, on loamy soils - 20 m.
The procedure for creating a foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:
Drainage at home is a top priority
For the installation of this system, it is required to make a closed system of trenches around the structure, taking into account the fact that their depth should exceed the level of the foundation by 0.5 m.
Useful advice! Use perforated pipes. The trenches must be removed from the base of the house by 5-8 m, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.
For drainage system
The trenches in this case should also be located with a slope to the well to collect water. The minimum slope indicator is 2-3 cm / linear meter. Adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.
Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:
Closed drainage, subject to device technology and proper operation, effectively collects water for many years
The process of arranging drainage around the house can do without the use of pipes and even rubble. Alternative types of drainage:
Foundation drainage is necessary to protect the house with a high level of groundwater
However, such systems can behave unpredictably and it is impossible to predict the service life of drainage from improvised materials.
Use the video below for a more detailed look at the classic do-it-yourself drainage technology around the house. Only in this case you will be able to achieve a really high-quality, effective and durable result. By adhering to the technology requirements, you will get a reliable drainage system, even if you create a crushed stone trench system without piping.
Many developers decide to build a house with a basement. The cost of building a basement is comparable to the cost of building a conventional floor.
In the basement, only non-residential, auxiliary premises can be located - a laundry room, a gym, a sauna, a boiler room, a workshop, a pantry, etc. All these rooms with better comfort and convenience would be placed on an ordinary floor or attic.
In the recent past, it was customary to build houses on deep strip foundations. The arrangement of a basement in such a house was really beneficial - the foundation served as the outer walls of the basement rooms.
Application in modern low-rise construction of lightweight structures and makes the device in the basement house unprofitable.
Nevertheless, lovers of tradition and solidity often choose a house with a basement on a deep strip foundation. To comfortably use the premises in the basement, the basement must be protected from ground moisture.
present constantly. The level of groundwater, the amount of perched water, soil moisture on the site change according to the seasons of the year and depend on the structure and properties of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the terrain and the type of coverage on the site.
If the house is located on a slope, then, as a rule, it is necessary to divert water flowing down the slope from the house. Water flows down the slope both along the surface and underground horizons.
To protect the basement from water, two lines of defense are arranged:
Only basement waterproofing, without a drainage device, leads to the fact that water still finds a hole. If not immediately, then in a few years. Damp basement - money down the drain.
If you decide to make a basement or basement in the house, then wall drainage is recommended to be done, you will not regret.
Wall drainage is done simultaneously with the foundation. Its cost is minimal., compared to the cost of protecting an already flooded or damp basement from water.
If you want to take a chance, save on a drainage device and abandon its device, then conduct a thorough research. Assess seasonal fluctuations in groundwater levels at the site. Does it appear in the spring Ask your neighbors if they have drainage, if their basement heats up.
Lack of drainage, as a rule, will require strengthening the waterproofing of the foundation and increasing the cost of its installation.
The design of the wall drainage is adapted solely to protect the basement or basement from the water. If it is necessary to solve other problems, for example, lower the groundwater level throughout the site or reduce water saturation, then other types of drainage are used.
The device of wall drainage around the basement, as a rule, is mandatory:
The last condition is caused by this. The soil cushion of the foundation and the sinuses of the foundation pit are usually covered with permeable soil to reduce the forces of frost heaving. If the soil on the site is waterproof, then the surface water will seep into the permeable backfill of the foundation and accumulate there.
Water flowing from the roof through the downpipes should not seep into the ground next to the walls of the house.
You can find a description of the device of the drainage system, which directs water from the roof into the wall drainage pipes. Wall drainage pipes in this case have a dual purpose - they serve both to collect groundwater around the foundation and to transport water from the roof.
Using leaky wall drainage pipes to also move water from the roof is quite risky, and usually ends up flooding the basement during heavy rain.
It is best to carry out a separate drainage system to drain water from the roof and surface runoff from the sites on the site.
(click on picture to enlarge)
Drainage pipes - drains, are laid along the walls of the foundation and create a protective ring around the house. At the corners, the ring of drains breaks in the drainage wells. The water collected by drains is discharged into a storage, collection well.
Water can be removed from a prefabricated storage well in several directions:
The method of using drainage water is chosen based on local conditions and the desires of the owner of the house.
In order to discharge drainage water into the central sewerage of the village, according to the rules, permission from the owner of the sewerage network and payment for services for receiving and transporting wastewater are required.
In drainage wells, soil particles settle, settle to the bottom and accumulate carried by water in drains. In addition, through the wells, the proper operation of the drainage system is monitored and periodically, as necessary, the drain area is washed with a jet of water from sediments accumulated there.
Drainage wells are installed at the corners of the route, when the slope or difference in height changes, as well as on straight sections every 40-50 meters. It is not necessary to install a well at the corners of the turn if the distance from the corner to the nearest well is not more than 20 meters. The absence of wells at two corners of rotation in a row is not allowed.
The length of the drain section between adjacent drainage wells should be no more than 50 meters. Drains are laid with a slope of more than 0.5% (0.5 cm per 1 meter of pipe length) towards the collection well.
The angle of inclination is selected so that at the lower mark of the drainage ring around the house, the lower edge of the drain is placed at 20 cm(to the height of the gravel bed) above the base of the foundation. At the upper mark of the ring, the bottom of the drain should be located at 20 cm. below floor level in the basement.
It is not allowed to deepen wall drainage (including gravel bedding) into the sand cushion of the foundation, so as not to reduce the bearing capacity of the pillow and foundation.
To place pipes with the required slope sometimes it is required to increase the distance between the sole of the foundation and the level of the floor in the basement more than is required for design reasons. This increases the cost of building a foundation.
In this case it can be beneficial to abandon the construction of wall drainage and perform remote drainage. Remote drainage pipes are laid at a distance of 1-3 m. from the foundation. In this case, the lower mark of the drains in height may be lower than the base of the foundation.
Remote drainage can also be beneficial to protect an already built house with a basement.
How to make wall drainage with your own hands is clear from the drawings, which show the whole process step by step.
Geotextile is a synthetic fabric specially designed for laying in the ground. The material allows water to pass through, but retains soil particles. In the design of the drainage, it prevents silting of the filter bed, drainage plates and pipes with soil particles.
On the foundation wall drainage slabs or drainage mats are placed on top of the waterproofing. Special permeable slabs or mats made of polymeric material intercept water that seeps to the foundation wall. Through channels in slabs or mats, water descends to the gravel and then enters the drainage pipes.
In addition, drainage slabs or mats protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage.
The drainage slab is separated from the soil with a layer of geotextile. Manufacturers produce drainage mats with a layer of geotextile already attached to their surface.
Drainage slabs can be easily made by hand. Plates are cast from Expanded clay of the largest and lightest fractions (20-40 mm and more), Slabs of this material will not only drain water, but also serve as a basement wall insulation. Plates with a thickness of at least 100 mm. lay out dry with dressing along the basement wall and cover with a geotextile sheet.
For insulation of basement walls, instead of drainage boards on the waterproofing of the foundation, insulation boards are spot-glued - extruded polystyrene foam 100 thick mm A profiled plastic membrane and geotextiles are fixed on top of the insulation boards.
On sale are membranes with a geotextile sheet already attached to their surface. Through the channels of the membrane, the water that has seeped through the geotextile flows down to the gravel sprinkling of the drainage pipe. The membrane also protects the insulation from soil damage.
On sale in the construction market there are drainage corrugated plastic perforated pipes with holes evenly spaced on the surface. Outside, the pipes are covered with a layer of geotextile, which protects the pipes from clogging with soil particles.
For wall drainage, pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
Pipes are joined together with the help of special couplings. At the angles of rotation, it is recommended to join the pipes with two fittings with a rotation angle other than 90 degrees. As a result, the rotation of the pipe will be smoother.
Drainage wells are assembled from ready-made plastic sections with a diameter of about 300 mm.
You can use any other pipes of approximately the specified size. The bottom of the well should be below the level of the drainage pipes by 200-500 mm.
Every two to three years, the wells are cleaned and the drainage pipes are washed with a jet of water.
The water collected by the drainage system is discharged into a collection well. A well is a reservoir where some amount of drainage water accumulates. From the tank, using a submersible drainage pump, water is periodically pumped out in a certain direction, for example, into a surface drain and further to the relief outside the site.
The capacity of the well - the volume from the bottom to the supply pipe, is chosen large enough, so that the frequency of pumping water is not burdensome for the owners.
If the pumping process is automated, then the volume of the well and the degree of concern of the owners can be significantly reduced. To do this, a stationary drainage pump equipped with a float switch is installed in the well and electricity is supplied.
In the latter case, for the device of a collection well of small volume it is convenient to use the same design as for the drainage well. In order to increase the volume and ensure the operation of the pump, the collection well is made deeper than the drainage one.
It is necessary to follow that the water level in the collection well did not rise above the level of the drainage pipes.
Drainage water from a collection well can be pumped into an underground tank, where it is accumulated and used for watering plantings, washing cars and other household needs. This is beneficial if in the same container direct the water of the surface drain from the roof of the house and from the sites on the site.
The device of the storage tank, similar to the design of an autonomous sewage septic tank. For example, such a well-shaped tank, like a septic tank, is made from. You can also use plastic containers.
Water from the roof and from the surface drainage system under no circumstances should it fall into drainage system. Drainage will not cope with the removal of large amounts of water during a rainstorm and rainwater through the drainage can flood the basement. Pipes and wells of drainage and drainage systems must be isolated from each other.
If on site low groundwater level, and the bottom layer of soil on the site is permeable, then the prefabricated well can be made in the form. Water from the well will seep into the permeable layer of soil. The depth of the well should be such that the filtration zone is in a permeable soil layer.
Drainage system - drains, wells at the level of drains and below, in winter should be in a non-freezing layer of soil. It is known that in spring water appears on the surface of the earth much earlier than the soil frozen at depth thaws. Frozen drainage will not be able to keep water away from the foundation.
The soil surrounding the drainage may freeze if located higher. For example, for the Moscow region, the estimated depth will be 0.7 m. This development is especially likely if the basement of the house is not heated or well insulated.
In case of danger of freezing, the soil is insulated, laying under the blind area of the building a slab of PSB 35 foam or extruded polystyrene foam 100 thick mm.
Let's make a reservation right away, drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the level of water in the area.
The danger lies both from the outside (precipitation, flood waters) and from the inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of the building from water ingress.
But, even a foundation that is qualitatively isolated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and the basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if the water constantly pushes, it will find weaknesses in the waterproofing. And vice versa, if you take it away in time, your house or cottage will be safe.
Do-it-yourself drainage around the house will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.
Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding the site, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.
This type includes storm sewers (storm sewers). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and accessible after most types of work on the site have been completed. Surface drainage systems allow you to divert only rain and melt water, they can not cope with groundwater.
There are two types of surface drainage devices: linear and point.
It is focused on the removal of storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house, in particular. Water flows into channels dug in the ground and is discharged into a drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed with gratings.
Designed for quick drainage of water generated from local sources (eg under roof gutters, watering taps, etc.). Point drains are covered with decorative metal gratings to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. From each point, drainage pipes are laid, which are connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.
Combined drainage combines the two systems mentioned above: point and line drainage.
According to the method of the device, the drainage can be open and closed.
A system of trenches, gutters, drains or catchment trays.
Such a drainage is a trench, which is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and from the site.
A ditch up to half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the site and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.
In order for water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house in the ditch, a bevel is made at an angle of 30 °, and the slope towards the main water intake trench (or drain well) will allow water to be drained by gravity in the right direction.
The advantage of an open drainage system can be called low cost and high speed of work. But, if you need to drain a large amount of melt and rainwater, then you will have to arrange a deep drainage line into which someone can fall. The unfinished walls of the ditches are collapsing. Such a system spoils the appearance of the site.
It is possible to increase the service life and increase the safety of such a system through the use of special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are closed with bars from above.
It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Their views are shown in the photo.
It is used in the case when the area of the site is small, and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to carry out maintenance of the trench after the arrangement without dismantling.
Proper drainage around this type of house is arranged in several stages.
The disposal of a large amount of groundwater requires the construction of a solid system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil located in a lowland and characterized by a high level of groundwater.
The device process is laborious and consists in laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water removed) from perforations into deep trenches (depending on the height of the soil water).
Step-by-step instructions for a closed-type drainage device
The drainage scheme around the house is shown in the photo
Advice. To check the "workability" of the trench, it is better to wait for heavy rain and see if there are any places where there is a significant accumulation of water.
Advice. If you have clay soil - geofabric is required, if crushed stone or sand, then it is not necessary.
You can take any geotextile, the main thing is that it passes and filters water well. It is better not to take dense needle-punched geotextiles, because. it does not pass water well.
Lay a perforated pipe - the basis of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But in any kind of pipes there must be perforation for receiving water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). The pipes are connected to each other by means of a cross or a tee. The material was prepared for the site www.site
Advice. The pipe perforation should be smaller than the size of the smallest particle of gravel.
Advice. Collecting pipes over a large area of the site must converge into a main pipe (with a diameter of more than 100 mm.), Which will carry the collected water to the drainage well.
Bring the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last component of a closed drainage system.
Advice. On top of a closed system, you can install a surface drainage (storm system) and also lead it to a drainage well.
The finished drainage system in the section is shown in the photo
Conclusion
Which of the listed types of drainage is right for you can be determined only by knowing the features of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house, the cost of the arrangement and operation of which is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it must qualitatively and reliably perform the role of a drainage system. Indeed, according to experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its life by more than 50 years.
home drainage is a system whose function is to take atmospheric and underground moisture from the foundation. It's very rare to get by without it. in areas with well-permeable soil, lack of floods and low year-round groundwater levels.
In other cases, this system is necessary, since protects the foundation, basement from rain, melt water and the rise of the primer, as well as from the destructive effect of soils prone to swelling when moistened and frozen. In this way, drainage will extend the life of the building and prevents the development of mold in the basement.
For creating moisture removal systems you can use the services of specialists, as well as do all the work yourself. You just need to choose the right drainage, and there are several types of it. They differ in the complexity of arrangement, appearance and other parameters.
One of the most common classifications of drainage is based on how complex it is. According to this parameter, 3 types of drainage systems.
Exactly third way water diversion in recent years has become traditional when creating a drainage system.
Most often water drainage from the foundation is a drainage system surrounding the house, as well as revision and drainage wells. Equip such a drainage as follows:
This is a simplified description of the design of the near-house drainage system. In real drainage can be wall or ring, it all depends on the characteristics of the soil and the private house itself.
Such water protection applied in that case, if the house has a basement and a basement.
And it's worth doing until the backfill around the foundation of the house is completed. Such a measure will avoid additional financial costs for earthmoving work.
The wall system consists of revision and collector tanks, as well as drains. Latest laid around the building at a depth of at least 0.3-0.5 m from the floor level, but not deeper than the bottom edge of the foundation. The slope in this case is also important to observe.
For reliability around the foundation recommended create a waterproof half-meter a screen made of the most compacted clay, or the base of the house is covered with geotextiles.
In some cases enough to remove only atmospheric moisture application only open type wall drainage, which is a collection of trays located in a ring near the house.
From above the gutters are closed with gratings.
This type of drainage used for home protection, which is located in a sandy area and has no base. Have a trench system at a distance of 3 to 12 meters from the house foundation, it is best to remove it at least 5 m from the building in order to avoid soil shrinkage, which will lead to the destruction of the foundation of the structure. When constructing such a drainage system from the foundation of buildings, all those elements are used that are in the classical system described above.
For extra protection foundations of the house use a clay castle. Besides, the general rule is to install drains at a depth of 50 cm from the lowest point of the floor. The remaining parameters are determined on a case-by-case basis.
Before proceeding with the installation of a near-house drainage system, it is necessary to determine its type, which depends on several parameters:
The wall-mounted underground version is used in the presence of a basement, high GWL and loamy and clay soils. If it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house only from precipitation, a surface system will suffice.
To protect the house located on sandy or sandy loamy soils and not having a basement, apply ring (trench) drainage.
Having decided on the type of drainage, you can begin to draw up a diagram, design a system and plan all work. This stage allows you to reduce all possible shortcomings, which are then expensive to fix.
For plan you need to determine the lowest point on the site to install a drainage well, which will be connected to the common ring of the system by a pipe.
It is better to draw a diagram on graph paper or in a special program. The drawing should show:
Inspection tanks are installed at the place where the pipe turns, for example, in the corners of a house, or every 30 m for a straight pipe run.
The plan should also record the depth of pipe laying. This indicator depends not only on the bottom slab of the foundation and the height of the floor, but also on the level of soil freezing. Pipes should run deeper than the zero winter ground temperature point. It is important to write down the diameter of the drains, which affects the width of the trench, and the required slope.
Design is best left to the experts. But the purchase of the necessary material and the installation of the drainage system on the basis of a competent plan can be done independently.
Such a device for protecting the house from water can be done independently even after the construction of the building is completed. First of all, you need to prepare working tools and all the necessary materials:
Pipes must be perforated. You can purchase ready-made drains, or make them yourself from an existing orange sewer pipe. Flexible products are not recommended. The diameter of the pipeline can be 70-150 mm.
The material is preferably plastic with high strength and wall resistance to stress. Moreover, the deeper the drains go, the higher this figure should be. You can take asbestos and ceramic products.
Some prefabricated drainage pipes are surrounded by an additional filter material, such as coconut fibre.
Lookout and buy ready-made or they are made independently from a thick-walled plastic pipe of large diameter. They will need to buy hatches.
After acquiring everything you need, they begin to measure, allowing you to mark the place where the drains and other elements of the drainage system will pass. The site is cleared of debris and the excavation and installation work begins. Let's take a look how to properly lay the drainage pipe around the house:
The drainage system is ready.
Video on how to make a drainage system around the house with your own hands:
In its simplest form, it can be a container for collecting water. At the point of connection with the inlet pipeline you need to install a valve that prevents the reverse flow of water. It is good if the container has a large diameter, for example, 80-100 cm.
From the drainage well, you can lay a non-perforated outlet pipeline to a ravine, filtration well or reservoir. Drainage from the collector can be done by gravity or by a drainage pump. Water from the well can be used for technical needs and irrigation.
If you decide completely drain the site yourself, then here is the cost that you will have to pay only for the tools and all the material:
In this case a running meter of drainage will cost a maximum of 2000 rubles. But that doesn't include shipping costs. Still need to add the price of wells. Ready plastic manhole minimum diameter can do in 2000- 2500 rubles apiece, and drainage - more than 10 thousand rubles. Cheaper to make them from a pipe.
If you hire specialists, then the price of the drainage system will be the sum of the cost for design services (about 10,000 rubles) and the work itself. Many firms make a project for free if you order work from them.
Specializing companies set the price for pipe laying at least 2500 rubles per meter, for the installation of a viewing well - 5-7 thousand, and a drainage one - 35-40 thousand rubles. But many of them give a guarantee on their work for 2-3 years.
But if you are confident in your abilities or have at least some experience, then you can order only a project, and the rest do it yourself. Or, in general, carry out all drainage work on our own, including drawing up a diagram.
The main thing is to decide on the type of drainage in accordance with the characteristics of the building, the climate of the region and the site. It is better to use deep drainage, and if necessary, supplement it with a storm system.
Don't skimp on pipes. and underestimate the manhole that allows the system to be cleaned. With proper organization of drainage, you will not only be able to protect the house from moisture, but also use all atmospheric and groundwater for household needs.
Drainage system around the houseEven the most reliable and high-quality foundation waterproofing cannot endlessly withstand ground moisture. Sooner or later, water will find its way through the opened capillaries, cracks and mechanical defects of the insulating layer. To prevent this from happening, and the foundation does not eventually become a capillary pump and a source of dampness in the premises, it is necessary to divert groundwater away from the foundation, or at least reduce the capillary pressure on the waterproofing surface.
The most reliable way to protect the foundation from getting wet is to divert water from it through the drain. Various drainage systems are described below and examples of their implementation are given.
If waterproofing can be compared to a wall for water, then drainage is like a bilge pump. Waterproofing and drainage system around the house perfectly complement each other and provide the most complete protection of the foundation from ground moisture.
As is known from the school physics course, the liquid, according to the law of communicating vessels, always overflows to a lower place. Do not forget that in the soil moisture spreads through the capillaries rather slowly. Therefore, the rapid discharge of the collected water through the drainage pipes allows you to create a dry zone behind them. It is this effect that is used to protect the foundation of the house.
Laying drainage around the house with your own hands is easy. It is a system of perforated pipes that collect groundwater, which flows by gravity to a discharge point in a suitable place, such as a special well.
In any case, the drainage pipes are mounted at a slope. Ideally, if the soil around the house has a slight slope, and there is a ravine nearby, where water can be discharged. On a horizontal section located in a lowland, water has to be collected in a special storage tank - a drainage well, from where it is periodically pumped out as it is filled. The accumulated moisture can be used both for technical needs and for watering plants.
Ready-made drainage pipes can be replaced with homemade ones. A do-it-yourself drainage pipe is made from an orange water pipe (thick-walled pipe for outdoor installation). The effect is achieved by drilling many drainage holes in it.
Do-it-yourself drainage of the foundation of a house is of two types: surface and deep. The first of them is necessary to drain water after melting snow and rain from the soil surface or blind area. Structurally, this is an ordinary storm drain. Water is collected in it along the blind area of the foundation, which has a slight slope from the wall of the house in the direction of the sewer. The size of the storm drain depends on the maximum rainfall in the area and the area of the roof that collects water.
To protect against groundwater, it is necessary to equip a deep drainage system. Moreover, it should be located as low as possible, ideally - below the sole of the foundation.
In order to save money and time, some inexperienced developers combine the sewer and drainage system by organizing the drain of the roof drains into the drainage pipe. This should not be done in any case, because during rain the drainage pipe does not have time to drain the drain water, and they actively penetrate the soil through the perforation, causing waterlogging around the drainage. If there is nowhere to drain rainwater, you can drain it directly into the drainage storage tank, but always through your own separate pipe.
The drainage device itself is highly dependent on the type of soil. So for sandy soil with a high clay horizon lying above the base of the foundation, drainage should take place at the junction of the clay and sand horizons. Heavy clay soil does not pass water well, and to determine the depth of water penetration, it will be necessary to dig an exploration pit. On heavily waterlogged lands, it may be necessary to create a local watershed from a waterproof film or even a concrete partition in the ground.
The main element of underground drainage is a drainage perforated pipe that collects water from the ground and transports it by tilting. The greater the slope, the more efficiently the do-it-yourself home drainage works, and the more water is removed from the ground. But a strong slope leads to a sharp increase in the amount of work, especially with a large length of the drainage system.
On the other hand, a small slope of the pipes slows down the movement of water and leads to a gradual silting of the internal channels. A slope of at least 1 cm per linear meter of pipe is considered acceptable. The slope angle must remain constant throughout the drainage. Otherwise, sediment will begin to accumulate at the fracture sites, which will gradually lead to blockage of the pipes. This angle during the arrangement of the drainage must be controlled with a meter bubble level and a centimeter lining.
A drainage ditch is dug along the perimeter of the foundation no closer than 50 cm from it. If the blind area of the house is wider than half a meter, we dig a ditch along its edge. The minimum width of the ditch is also 50 cm. The wall closest to the foundation is made vertical. The opposite slope of the ditch is with a slight slope. Further actions depend on the type of soil and the level of waterlogging of the soil.
If the soil does not suffer from high humidity and has a light mechanical structure, drainage can be arranged according to a simplified scheme. A permeable geotextile is laid at the bottom of the ditch with an overlap on the edges. A layer of coarse sand and a few centimeters of medium and fine gravel are poured on it. A drainage pipe is laid on top of the rubble.
Then it is completely covered with rubble and all this is covered with the edges of agrofibre. Sand and gravel act as a filter, trapping solid particles that can clog drainage holes. The ditch with the pipe is covered with a thin layer of fine gravel, and then with soil.
For heavily waterlogged soil, the drainage described above will not be enough. To separate excess moisture, waterproofing is pre-equipped along the outer edge of the ditch. The easiest option to make such an artificial watershed is to cover the outer wall of the ditch with a waterproof membrane or several layers of roofing material. The depth of the ditch in this case should exceed the level of the water-resistant clay horizon or be below the base of the foundation.
For complete protection, drainage must close the perimeter around the foundation. The drain point is equipped in the place of the greatest occurrence of pipes. As already mentioned, the storage tank can serve to collect both groundwater and precipitation. In this case, the joint use of drainage pipes and a drain is unacceptable, and the groundwater discharge point should be located below the connection point of the rain drain.
The drainage device around the house provides a fairly high level of protection against wetting the foundation. Thanks to a properly equipped water drainage system, you will be relieved of many problems associated with increased dampness for many years.
