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Explanation of the operation of the Stirling engine.
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We start by marking the flywheel.
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Six holes failed. It turns out not beautiful. The holes are small and the body between them is thin.
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In one go we sharpen the counterweights for the crankshaft. The bearings are pressed in. Subsequently, the bearings are pressed out and an M3 thread is cut in their place.
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I milled it, but you can also use a file.
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This is part of the connecting rod. The rest is soldered with PSR.
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Working with a reamer over the sealing washer.
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Drilling the Stirling bed. The hole that connects the displacer to the working cylinder. 4.8 drill for M6 thread. Then it needs to be turned off.
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Drilling the working cylinder liner for reaming.
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Drilling for M4 thread.
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How it was done.
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Dimensions are given taking into account the conversion. Two pairs of cylinder-piston, 10mm, were made. and by 15mm. Both were tested. If you set the cylinder to 15mm. then the piston stroke will be 11-12mm. and it doesn't work. But 10mm. with a stroke of 24mm. just right.
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Dimensions of connecting rods. Brass wire Ф3mm is soldered to them.
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Connecting rod mounting assembly. The version with bearings did not work. When the connecting rod is tightened, the bearing is deformed and creates additional friction. Instead of a bearing I made Al. bushing with bolt.
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Dimensions of some parts.
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Some dimensions for the flywheel.
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Some sizes of how to mount on the shaft and joints.
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We place a 2-3mm asbestos gasket between the cooler and the combustion chamber. It is also advisable to place paronite gaskets or something that conducts less heat under the bolts that hold both parts together.
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The displacer is the heart of Stirling; it must be light and conduct little heat. The stock was taken from the same old hard drive. This is one of the linear motor guides. Very suitable, hardened, chrome plated. In order to cut the thread, I wrapped a soaked rag around the middle and heated the ends until red hot.
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Connecting rod with working cylinder. Total length 108mm. Of these, 32mm is a piston with a diameter of 10mm. The piston should move into the cylinder easily, without noticeable scuffing. To check, close it tightly with your finger from below, and insert the piston from above, it should release down very slowly.
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I planned to do this but made changes during the process. In order to find out the stroke of the working cylinder, we move the displacer to refrigerator and We extend the working cylinder by 25 mm. We heat the combustion chamber. We carefully place a ruler under the working connecting rod and remember the data. We push the displacer sharply, and how much the working cylinder moves is its stroke. This size plays a very important role.
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View of the working cylinder. Connecting rod length 83mm. The stroke is 24mm. The handwheel is attached to the shaft with an M4 screw. His head is visible in the photo. And in this way the counterweight of the displacer connecting rod is attached.
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View of the displacer connecting rod. The total length with the displacer is 214 mm. Connecting rod length 75mm. Stroke 24mm. Pay attention to the groove U figurative form to the flywheel. Made for power take-off. The idea was either a generator or through a pin to the cooler fan. The flywheel pylon has dimensions 68x25x15. The top part is milled on one side to a depth of 7mm and a length of 32mm. The center of the bearing from the bottom is at 55mm. Fastened from below with two M4 bolts. The distance between the centers of the pylons is 126mm.
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View of the combustion chamber and cooler. The engine housing is pressed into the pylon. The dimensions of the pylon are 47x25x15, the recess for landing is 12 mm. It is attached to the board from below with two M4 bolts.
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Lamp 40mm. in diameter height 35mm. Recessed into the shaft by 8mm. At the bottom in the center there is an M4 nut sealed and secured with a bolt from below.
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Finished look. Oak base 300x150x15mm.
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Nameplate.
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I've been looking for a working scheme for a long time. I found it, but it was always due to the fact that either there was a problem with the equipment or with the materials. I decided to make it like a crossbow. After looking at many options and figuring out what I had in stock and what I could do myself using my equipment. The dimensions that I figured out right away, when assembled device I didn't like it. It turned out too wide. I had to shorten the cylinder frame. And the flywheel should be placed on one bearing (on one pylon). The materials of the flywheel, connecting rods, counterweight, sealing washer, lamp and working cylinder are bronze. The pylons, working piston, cylinder frame cooler and washer with threads from the heat chamber are aluminum. Flywheel shaft and displacer rod steel. Stainless steel combustion chamber. Graphite displacer. And I’ll put it on display for you to judge.
In which the working fluid (gaseous or liquid) moves in a closed volume, it is essentially a type of external combustion engine. This mechanism is based on the principle of periodic heating and cooling of the working fluid. Energy is extracted from the emerging volume of the working fluid. The Stirling engine operates not only from the energy of burning fuel, but also from almost any source. This mechanism was patented by the Scotsman Robert Stirling in 1816.
The described mechanism, despite not high efficiency, has a number of advantages, first of all it is simplicity and unpretentiousness. Thanks to this, many amateur designers attempt to assemble a Stirling engine with their own hands. Some succeed and some don't.
In this article we will look at DIY Stirling from scrap materials. We will need the following blanks and tools: a tin can (can be from sprats), sheet metal, paper clips, foam rubber, rubber band, bag, wire cutters, pliers, scissors, soldering iron,
Now let's start assembling. Here detailed instructions to how to make a Stirling engine with your own hands. First you need to wash the jar, clean sandpaper the edges. We cut a circle out of sheet metal so that it fits on the inner edges of the can. We determine the center (for this we use a caliper or ruler), make a hole with scissors. Next, take copper wire and a paper clip, straighten the paper clip, and make a ring at the end. We wind the wire around the paperclip - four tight turns. Next, use a soldering iron to tin the resulting spiral. a small amount solder. Then you need to carefully solder the spiral to the hole in the lid so that the rod is perpendicular to the lid. The paperclip should move freely.
After this, you need to make a connecting hole in the lid. We make a displacer from foam rubber. Its diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the can, but there should not be a large gap. The height of the displacer is a little more than half the can. We cut a hole in the center of the foam rubber for the sleeve; the latter can be made of rubber or cork. We insert the rod into the resulting bushing and seal everything. The displacer must be placed parallel to the lid, this important condition. Next, all that remains is to close the jar and seal the edges. The seam must be sealed. Now let's start making the working cylinder. To do this, cut out a strip of tin 60 mm long and 25 mm wide, bend the edge 2 mm with pliers. We form a sleeve, then solder the edge, then you need to solder the sleeve to the lid (above the hole).
Now you can start making the membrane. To do this, cut a piece of film from the bag, press it inward a little with your finger, and press the edges with an elastic band. Next you need to check the correct assembly. Heat the bottom of the jar over the fire and pull the stem. As a result, the membrane should bend outward, and if the rod is released, the displacer should lower under its own weight, and accordingly, the membrane returns to its place. If the displacer is not made correctly or the soldering of the can is not airtight, the rod will not return to place. After this we make the crankshaft and struts (the crank spacing should be 90 degrees). The height of the cranks should be 7 mm, and the height of the displacers 5 mm. The length of the connecting rods is determined by the position of the crankshaft. The end of the crank is inserted into the plug. So we looked at how to assemble a Stirling engine with our own hands.
Such a mechanism will work from a regular candle. If you attach magnets to the flywheel and take the coil of an aquarium compressor, then such a device can replace a simple electric motor. As you can see, making such a device with your own hands is not at all difficult. There would be a desire.
You can, of course, buy beautiful factory models of Stirling engines, such as in this Chinese online store. However, sometimes you want to create yourself and make a thing, even from improvised means. On our website there are already several options for manufacturing these motors, and in this publication, check out the complete simple option made at home.
Check out 3 DIY options below.
Dmitry Petrakov, by popular demand, filmed step by step instructions for assembling a powerful Stirling engine relative to its size and heat consumption. This model uses materials that are accessible to every viewer and widespread; anyone can acquire them. The author selected all the sizes presented in this video based on many years of experience working with Stirlings of this design, and for this particular specimen they are optimal.
This model uses materials that are accessible to every viewer and widespread, thanks to which anyone can acquire them. All the sizes presented in this video were selected based on many years of experience working with Stirlings of this design, and for this particular specimen they are optimal.
With feeling, sense and arrangement.
Stirling motor in operation with a load (water pump).
The water pump, assembled as a working prototype, is designed to work in tandem with Stirling engines. The peculiarity of the pump lies in the small amount of energy required to perform its work: this design uses only a small part of the dynamic internal working volume of the engine, and thus has a minimal effect on its performance.
To make it, you will need available materials: a can of canned food, a small piece of foam rubber, a CD, two bolts and paper clips.
Foam rubber is one of the most common materials used in the manufacture of Stirling motors. The engine displacer is made from it. We cut out a circle from a piece of our foam rubber, make its diameter two millimeters less than the inner diameter of the can, and its height a little more than half of it.
We drill a hole in the center of the cover into which we will then insert the connecting rod. To ensure smooth movement of the connecting rod, we make a spiral from a paper clip and solder it to the cover.
We pierce the foam circle of foam rubber in the middle with a screw and secure it with a washer at the top and at the bottom with a washer and nut. After this, we attach a piece of paper clip by soldering, having first straightened it.
Now we stick the displacer into the hole made in advance in the lid and hermetically solder the lid and the jar together. We make a small loop at the end of the paperclip, and drill another hole in the lid, but a little larger than the first.
We make a cylinder from tin using soldering.
We attach the finished cylinder to the can using a soldering iron, so that there are no gaps left at the soldering site.
We make a crankshaft from a paper clip. The knee spacing should be 90 degrees. The knee that will be above the cylinder in height is 1-2 mm larger than the other.
We use paper clips to make stands for the shaft. We make a membrane. To do this, we put a plastic film on the cylinder, push it inward a little and secure it to the cylinder with thread.
We make the connecting rod that will need to be attached to the membrane from a paper clip and insert it into a piece of rubber. The length of the connecting rod must be made such that at the bottom dead center of the shaft the membrane is pulled inside the cylinder, and at the highest, on the contrary, it is extended. We set up the second connecting rod in the same way.
We glue the connecting rod with rubber to the membrane, and attach the other one to the displacer.
We use a soldering iron to attach the paper clip legs to the can and attach the flywheel to the crank. For example, you can use an CD.
Stirling engine made at home. Now all that remains is to bring heat under the jar - light a candle. And after a few seconds give a push to the flywheel.
www.newphysicist.com
Let's make a Stirling engine.
A Stirling engine is a heat engine that operates by cyclically compressing and expanding air or other gas (working fluid) at different temperatures, so that there is a net conversion of thermal energy into mechanical work. More specifically, the Stirling engine is a closed-cycle regenerative thermal engine with a continuously gaseous working fluid.
Stirling engines have higher efficiency than steam engines and can reach 50% efficiency. They are also capable of operating silently and can use almost any heat source. The thermal energy source is generated externally to the Stirling engine rather than through internal combustion as is the case with Otto cycle or diesel cycle engines.
Stirling engines are compatible with alternative and renewable energy sources, because they may become increasingly significant as the price of traditional fuels rises and in light of problems such as depletion of oil reserves and changing of the climate.
In this project we will give you simple instructions to create a very simple engine DIY Stirling using a test tube and syringe .
Components and Steps to Make a Stirling Motor
1. A piece of hardwood or plywood
This is the basis for your engine. Thus, it must be rigid enough to cope with the movements of the engine. Then make three small holes as shown in the picture. You can also use plywood, wood, etc. 
2. Marble or glass balls
In the Stirling engine these balls perform important function. In this project, the marble acts as a displacer of hot air from the warm side of the test tube to the cold side. When marble displaces hot air, it's cooling down.
3. Sticks and screws
Pins and screws are used to hold the test tube in a comfortable position for free movement in any direction without any interruption.
4. Rubber pieces
Buy an eraser and cut it into the following shapes. It is used to hold the test tube securely and maintain its seal. There should be no leakage at the mouth of the tube. If this is the case, the project will not be successful.
5. Syringe
The syringe is one of the most important and moving parts in a simple Stirling engine. Add some lubricant inside the syringe so that the plunger can move freely inside the barrel. As air expands inside the test tube, it pushes the piston down. As a result, the syringe barrel moves upward. At the same time, the marble rolls towards the hot side of the test tube and displaces the hot air and causes it to cool (reduce volume).
6. Test Tube The test tube is the most important and working component of a simple Stirling engine. The test tube is made of a certain type of glass (such as borosilicate glass) that is highly heat resistant. So it can be heated to high temperatures.
How does a Stirling engine work?
Some people say that Stirling engines are simple. If this is true, then just like the great equations of physics (e.g. E = mc2), they are simple: simple on the surface, but richer, more complex, and potentially very confusing until you realize them. I think it's safer to think of Stirling engines as complex: many very bad YouTube videos show how to easily "explain" them in a very incomplete and unsatisfactory way.
In my opinion, you can't understand a Stirling engine by simply building it or observing how it works from the outside: you need to think seriously about the cycle of steps it goes through, what happens to the gas inside, and how it differs from what what happens in a conventional steam engine.
All that is required for the engine to operate is a temperature difference between the hot and cold parts gas chamber. Models have been built that can only operate with a temperature difference of 4 °C, although factory engines will likely operate with a difference of several hundred degrees. These engines may become the most efficient form of internal combustion engine.
Stirling engines and concentrated solar power
Stirling engines provide a neat method of converting thermal energy into motion that can drive a generator. The most common design is to have the motor at the center of a parabolic mirror. A mirror will be installed on the tracking device to Sun rays focused on the engine.
* Stirling engine as receiver
You may have played with convex lenses in school years. Concentration solar energy for burning a piece of paper or a match, am I right? New technologies are developing day by day. Concentrated solar thermal energy is gaining more and more attention these days.
Above is a short video of a simple test tube motor using glass beads as the displacer and a glass syringe as the force piston.
This simple Stirling engine was built from materials that are available in most school science laboratories and can be used to demonstrate a simple heat engine.
Pressure-volume diagram per cycle
Process 1 → 2 Expansion of the working gas at the hot end of the test tube, heat is transferred to the gas, and the gas expands, increasing the volume and pushing the syringe plunger upward.
Process 2 → 3 As the marble moves towards the hot end of the test tube, gas is forced from the hot end of the test tube to the cold end, and as the gas moves, it transfers heat to the wall of the test tube.
Process 3 → 4 Heat is removed from the working gas and the volume decreases, the syringe piston moves down.
Process 4 → 1 Completes the cycle. The working gas moves from the cold end of the test tube to the hot end as the marbles displace it, receiving heat from the wall of the test tube as it moves, thereby increasing the pressure of the gas.
A Stirling engine is a kind of engine that starts working from thermal energy. In this case, the energy source is completely unimportant. The main thing is that there is a difference temperature regime, in this case, such an engine will work. Now we will look at how you can create a model of such a low-temperature engine from a Coca-Cola can.
Now we will look at what we need to take to create an engine at home. What we need to take for stirling:
Stage 1. Preparing jars.
First, you should take 2 cans and cut them off top part. If the tops are cut off with scissors, the resulting nicks will have to be filed off with a file.
Stage 2. Making the diaphragm.
As a diaphragm you can take balloon, which should be reinforced with vulcanized rubber. The ball must be cut and pulled onto the jar. Then we glue a piece of special rubber onto the central part of the diaphragm. After the glue has hardened, in the center of the diaphragm we will punch a hole for installing the wire. The easiest way to do this is to use a special button, which can be left in the hole until assembly.
Step 3: Cutting and creating holes in the lid.
Two holes of two mm each need to be made in the walls of the cover; they are necessary to install the rotary axis of the levers. Another hole must be made in the bottom of the lid; a wire will go through it, which will be connected to the displacer.
At the last stage, the lid must be cut off. This is done to prevent the displacer wire from getting caught on the edges of the cover. For such work, you can take household scissors.
Stage 4. Drilling.
You need to drill two holes in the jar for the bearings. In our case, this was done with a 3.5 mm drill.
Stage 5. Making a viewing window.
A special window must be cut in the engine housing. Now you can observe how all the components of the device work.
Stage 6. Modification of terminals.
You need to take the terminals and remove the plastic insulation from them. Then we'll take a drill and make through holes at the edges of the terminals. A total of three terminals need to be drilled. Let's leave two terminals undrilled.
Stage 7. Creating leverage.
The material used to make the levers is copper wire, the diameter of which is only 1.88 mm. It’s worth looking up on the Internet exactly how to bend the knitting needles. You can also use steel wire, it’s just easier to work with copper wire.
Stage 8. Manufacturing of bearings.
To make the bearings you will need two bicycle nipples. The diameter of the holes needs to be checked. The author drilled them through using a two mm drill.
Stage 9. Installation of levers and bearings.
Levers can be placed directly through the viewing window. One end of the wire should be long, the flywheel will rest on it. The bearings must be firmly seated the right places. If there is any play, they can be glued.
Stage 10. Making a displacer.
The displacer is made from steel wool for polishing. To make a displacer, a steel wire is taken, a hook is created on it, and then a certain amount of cotton wool is wound onto the wire. The displacer must be the same size so that it moves smoothly in the jar. The entire height of the displacer should not be more than five centimeters.
At the end on one side of the cotton wool you need to make a spiral of wire so that it does not come out of the cotton wool, and on the other side of the wire we make a loop. Then we will tie a fishing line to this loop, which will subsequently be attracted through the central part of the diaphragm. Vulcanized rubber should be in the middle of the container.
Stage 11. Making a pressure tank
You need to cut the bottom of the jar in a certain way so that about 2.5 cm remains from its base. The displacer together with the diaphragm must be moved to the tank. After this, this entire mechanism is transferred to the end of the can. The diaphragm needs to be tightened a little so that it does not sag.
Then you need to take the terminal that was not drilled and pass the fishing line through it. The knot must be glued so that it does not move. The wire must be properly lubricated with oil and at the same time make sure that the displacer can easily pull the line behind it.
Stage 12. Making push rods.
These special rods connect the diaphragm and the levers. This is made from a piece of copper wire fifteen cm long.
Stage 13. Creating and installing a flywheel
To make a flywheel, we take three old CDs. Let's take a wooden rod as the center. After installing the flywheel, bend the crankshaft rod so that the flywheel will not fall off.
At the last stage, the entire mechanism is completely assembled.
Now we have reached the last step in creating the engine.
Hi all! Today I want to introduce to your attention homemade engine, which converts any temperature difference into mechanical work:
Stirling's engine- a heat engine in which a liquid or gaseous working fluid moves in a closed volume, a type of external combustion engine. It is based on periodic heating and cooling of the working fluid with the extraction of energy from the resulting change in the volume of the working fluid. It can operate not only from fuel combustion, but also from any heat source.
I present to your attention my engine, made from pictures from the Internet:
Having seen this miracle, I had a desire to make it)) Moreover, there were a lot of drawings and designs of the engine on the Internet. I’ll say right away: it’s not difficult to do, but to adjust and achieve normal operation is a little problematic. It worked fine for me only the third time (I hope you won’t suffer like that)))).
Operating principle of the Stirling engine:
Everything is made from materials available to every brainiac:
Well, what about without sizes)))
The motor frame is made from paper clip wire. All fixed wire connections are soldered()
The displacer (the disk that moves air inside the engine) is made of drawing paper and glued with superglue (it is hollow inside):
The smaller the gap between the covers and the displacer in the upper and lower positions, the greater the efficiency of the engine.
The displacer rod is made from a blind rivet (manufacturing: carefully pull out the inner part and, if necessary, clean it with fine sandpaper; glue the outer part to the upper “cold” cover with the head facing inward). But this option has a drawback - it is not completely sealed and there is slight friction, although a drop of motor oil will help get rid of it.
Piston cylinder - neck from an ordinary plastic bottle:
The piston casing is made of a medical glove and secured with a thread, which, after winding, must be impregnated with superglue for reliability. A disk made of several layers of cardboard is glued to the center of the casing, on which the connecting rod is attached.
The crankshaft is made from the same clips as the entire engine frame. The angle between the piston and displacer elbows is 90 degrees. The working stroke of the displacer is 5mm; piston - 8mm.
The flywheel consists of two CD disks that are glued to a cardboard cylinder and placed on the crankshaft axis.
So, stop talking nonsense, I present to you video of engine operation:
The difficulties I had were mainly due to excess friction and lack of accurate dimensions of the structure. in the first case, a drop of engine oil and crankshaft alignment corrected the situation, in the second, I had to rely on intuition))) But as you can see, everything worked out (though I completely rebuilt the engine 3 times))))
If you have any questions, write in the comments, we’ll sort it out)))
The Stirling engine, once famous, was forgotten for a long time due to the widespread use of another engine (internal combustion). But today we hear more and more about him. Maybe he has a chance to become more popular and find his place in a new modification in the modern world?
The Stirling engine is a heat engine that was invented in the early nineteenth century. The author, as is clear, was a certain Stirling named Robert, a priest from Scotland. The device is an external combustion engine, where the body moves in a closed container, constantly changing its temperature.
Due to the spread of another type of motor, it was almost forgotten. Nevertheless, thanks to its advantages, today the Stirling engine (many amateurs build it at home with their own hands) is making a comeback again.
The main difference from an internal combustion engine is that the heat energy comes from outside, and is not generated in the engine itself, as in an internal combustion engine.
You can imagine a closed air volume enclosed in a housing with a membrane, that is, a piston. When the housing heats up, the air expands and does work, thus bending the piston. Then cooling occurs and it bends again. This is the cycle of operation of the mechanism.
It is no wonder that many people make their own thermoacoustic Stirling engine at home. This requires the bare minimum of tools and materials, which can be found in everyone’s home. Let's consider two different ways how easy it is to create one.
To make a Stirling engine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
This is all. The rest is a matter of simple technique.
A firebox and two cylinders for the base are prepared from tin, of which the Stirling engine, made with your own hands, will consist. The dimensions are selected independently, taking into account the purposes for which this device is intended. Let's assume that the motor is being made for demonstration. Then the development of the master cylinder will be from twenty to twenty-five centimeters, no more. The remaining parts must adapt to it.
At the top of the cylinder, two protrusions and holes with a diameter of four to five millimeters are made to move the piston. The elements will act as bearings for the location of the crank device.
Next, they make the working fluid of the motor (it will become ordinary water). Tin circles are soldered to the cylinder, which is rolled into a pipe. Holes are made in them and brass tubes from twenty-five to thirty-five centimeters in length and with a diameter of four to five millimeters are inserted. At the end, they check how sealed the chamber has become by filling it with water.
Next comes the turn of the displacer. For manufacturing, a wooden blank is taken. The machine is used to ensure that it takes the shape of a regular cylinder. The displacer should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the cylinder. Optimal height they select it after the Stirling engine is made with their own hands. Because on at this stage the length should allow for some margin.
The spoke is turned into a cylinder rod. A hole is made in the center of the wooden container that fits the rod, and it is inserted. In the upper part of the rod it is necessary to provide space for the connecting rod device.
Then they take copper tubes four and a half centimeters long and two and a half centimeters in diameter. A circle of tin is soldered to the cylinder. A hole is made on the sides of the walls to connect the container with the cylinder.
The piston is also adjusted to lathe to the diameter of the large cylinder from the inside. The rod is connected at the top in a hinged manner.
The assembly is completed and the mechanism is adjusted. To do this, the piston is inserted into the cylinder bigger size and connect the latter to another smaller cylinder.
A crank mechanism is built on a large cylinder. Fix the engine part using a soldering iron. The main parts are fixed on a wooden base.
The cylinder is filled with water and a candle is placed under the bottom. A Stirling engine, made by hand from start to finish, is tested for performance.
The engine can be made in another way. To do this you will need the following materials:
Foam rubber is very often used to make a simple, low-power Stirling engine at home with your own hands. A displacer for the motor is prepared from it. Cut out a foam circle. The diameter should be slightly smaller than that of a tin can, and the height should be slightly more than half.
A hole is made in the center of the cover for the future connecting rod. To ensure that it runs smoothly, the paper clip is rolled into a spiral and soldered to the lid.
The foam circle is pierced in the middle with a thin wire and a screw and secured on top with a washer. Then the piece of paper clip is connected by soldering.
The displacer is pushed into the hole in the lid and connected to the can by soldering to seal it. A small loop is made on the paperclip, and another, larger hole is made in the lid.
The tin sheet is rolled into a cylinder and soldered, and then attached to the can so that there are no cracks left at all.
The paperclip is turned into a crankshaft. The spacing should be exactly ninety degrees. The knee above the cylinder is made slightly larger than the other.
The remaining paper clips are turned into shaft stands. The membrane is made as follows: the cylinder is wrapped in polyethylene film, pressed and secured with thread.
The connecting rod is made from a paper clip, which is inserted into a piece of rubber, and finished part attached to the membrane. The length of the connecting rod is made such that at the lower shaft point the membrane is drawn into the cylinder, and at the highest point it is extended. The second part of the connecting rod is made in the same way.
One is then glued to the membrane and the other to the displacer.
The legs for the jar can also be made from paper clips and soldered. For the crank, a CD is used.
Now the whole mechanism is ready. All that remains is to place and light a candle under it, and then give a push through the flywheel.
This is a low-temperature Stirling engine (built with my own hands). Of course, on an industrial scale such devices are manufactured in a completely different way. However, the principle remains the same: the air volume is heated and then cooled. And this is constantly repeated.
Finally, look at these drawings of the Stirling engine (you can make it yourself without any special skills). Maybe you've already got the idea and want to do something similar?
I've been watching craftsmen for a long time now. this resource, and when the article appeared I wanted to make it myself. But, as always, there was no time and I put off the idea.
But now I finally passed my diploma, graduated military department and it was time.
It seems to me that making such an engine is much easier than a flash drive :)
First of all, I want to repent to the guru of this site that a person in his 20s is doing such nonsense, but I just wanted to make it and there is nothing to explain this desire, I hope my next step will be a flash drive.
So we need:
1 Desire.
2 Three tin cans.
3 Copper wire (I found it with a cross-section of 2 mm).
4 Paper (newspaper or office paper, it doesn’t matter).
5 Stationery glue (PVA).
6 Super glue (CYJANOPAN or any other in the same spirit).
7 Rubber glove or balloon.
8 Terminals for electrical wiring 3 pcs.
9 Wine stopper 1 pc.
10 Some fishing line.
11 Tools to taste. 
1- first bank; 2- second; 3- third; 3-lid of the third jar; 4- membrane; 5- displacer; 6- electrical wiring terminal; 7- crankshaft; 8- tin part:) 9- connecting rod; 10- cork; 11- disk; 12 line.
Let's start by cutting off the lids of all three cans. I did this with a homemade Dremel, at first I wanted to use an awl to poke holes in a circle and cut with scissors, but I remembered the miracle machine.
To be honest, it didn’t turn out very nicely and I accidentally milled a hole in the wall of one of the cans, so it was no longer suitable for a working container (but I had two more and I made them more carefully). 
Next we need a jar that will serve as a form for displacer(5).
Since the bazaars were closed on Monday and all the nearby auto stores were closed, and I wanted to make an engine, I took the liberty of changing the original design and making the displacer out of paper rather than steel wool.
To do this, I found a jar of fish food that was the most suitable size for me. I chose the size based on the fact that the diameter of the soda can was 53mm, so I was looking for 48-51mm so that when I wind the paper onto the mold, there would be about 1-2mm of distance between the wall of the can and the displacer (5) for air passage. (I previously covered the jar with tape so that the glue would not stick). 
Next, I marked a strip of A4 sheet at 70 mm, and cut the rest into strips of 50 mm (as in the article). To be honest, I don’t remember how many of these strips I wound, but let it be 4-5 (strips 50mm x 290mm, I did the number of layers by eye, so that when the glue sets, the displacer is not soft). Each layer was coated with PVA glue. 
Then I made the displacer covers from 6 layers of paper (I also glued everything and pressed it with a round handle to squeeze out the remaining glue and air bubbles) when I glued all the layers, I pressed them on top with books so that they would not bend.
I also used scissors to cut off the bottom of the can (2), which was intact, at a distance of about 10mm, since the displacer was through top hole didn't pass. This will be ours working capacity.
This is what ended up happening (I didn’t immediately cut off the lid of the jar (3), but I still have to do this in order to put the candle there). 
Then, at a distance of about 60mm from the bottom, I cut off the jar (3) that I still had with a lid. This bottom will serve us firebox.
Then I cut off the bottom of the second jar (1) with the lid cut out, also at a distance of 10mm (from the bottom). And put it all together. 
Next, it seemed to me that if I glued a smaller object to the membrane (4) of the working cylinder (2) instead of the cover, the design would improve, so I cut out such a sample from paper. The base is 15x15mm square and the “ears” are 10mm each. And I cut out a part (8) from the sample. 
Then I drilled holes in the terminals (6) with a diameter of 2.1 or 2.5 mm (it doesn’t matter), after which I took a wire (with a cross-section of 2 mm) and measured 150 mm, this will be our " crankshaft" (7). And he bent it to the following dimensions: the height of the displacer elbow (5) - 20 mm, the height of the membrane elbow (4) - 5 mm. There should be 90 degrees between them (no matter which direction). Having first put the terminals in place. Also I made washers and attached them with glue so that the terminals would not dangle on the crankshaft.
It wasn’t possible to make it straight and exactly in size right away, but I redid it (rather for my own peace of mind). 
Then I again took the wire (2mm) and cut off a piece, about 200mm, this will be the connecting rod (9) of the membrane (4), threaded the part (8) through it and bent it (will be shown).
I took a can (1) (the one with a little holes in it) and made holes in it for the “crankshaft” (7) at a distance of 30mm from the top (but this is not important). And he cut through the viewing window with scissors. 
Then, when the displacer cylinder (5) was dry and completely glued, I began to glue the caps to it. When I glued the lids, I threaded a wire of about half a millimeter through it in order to attach the fishing line (12). 
Next, I machined an axle (10) from a wooden handle to connect the discs (11) to the crankshaft, but I recommend using a wine stopper.
And now the hardest part
(as for me) I cut out a membrane (4) from medical gloves and glued that same piece (8) to it in the center. I placed the membrane on the working cylinder (2) and tied it along the edge with a thread, and when I began to cut off the excess parts, the membrane began to crawl out from under the thread (although I did not pull the membrane) and when it was completely cut off, I began to tighten it and the membrane flew off completely.
I took super glue and glued the end of the can, and then glued the newly prepared membrane, placing it strictly in the center, held it and waited for the glue to harden. Then he pressed it again, but this time with an elastic band, cut off the edges, removed the elastic and glued it again (from the outside).
This is what happened at that moment 
Next, I pierced a hole in the membrane (4) and the part (8) with a needle and threaded a fishing line (12) through them (which was also not easy).
Well, when I put everything together, this is what happened: 
I’ll admit right away that at first the engine didn’t work; even more, it seemed to me that it wouldn’t work at all, because I had to turn it (with a burning candle) manually and with quite a lot of force (as for a self-rotating engine). I was completely limp and began to scold myself for making the displacer out of paper, for taking the wrong cans, for making a mistake in the length of the connecting rod (9) or the displacer line (5). But after an hour of torment and disappointment, my candle finally burned out (the one in the aluminum casing) and I took the remaining one from the New Year (the green one in the photo), it burned MUCH stronger and, lo and behold, I was able to start it.
CONCLUSIONS
1 What the displacer is made of does not matter, as I read on one of the sites “it should be light and non-heat-conducting.”
2 Changing the length of the connecting rod (9) and the length of the line (12) of the displacer (5) does not matter, as I read on one of the sites “the main thing is that the displacer does not hit the top or bottom of the working chamber during operation,” so I set it approximately in the middle . And the membrane in a calm (cold) state should be flat, and not stretched down or up.
Video
Video of the engine running. I installed 4 discs, they are used as a flywheel. When starting, I try to raise the displacer to the upper position, since I am still afraid that it will overheat. It should spin like this: first the displacer rises up, and then the membrane rises behind it, the displacer goes down, and the membrane goes down behind it.
PS: maybe if you balance it it will spin faster, but for me a quick fix I couldn't balance it :)
Water cooling video. It doesn’t help much in operation, and as you can see, it doesn’t really speed up its rotation, but with such cooling you can admire the engine longer without worrying about it overheating.
And here is an approximate drawing of my prototype (large size):
s016.radikal.ru/i335/1108/3e/a42a0bdb9f32.jpg
Anyone who needs the original (COMPASS V 12) can send it to the post office.
Perhaps you will ask me why it is needed after all and I will answer. Like everything in our steampunk, it’s mainly for the soul.
Please don't push me too hard, this is my first publication.
The Stirling engine, once famous, was forgotten for a long time due to the widespread use of another engine (internal combustion). But today we hear more and more about him. Maybe he has a chance to become more popular and find his place in a new modification in the modern world?
The Stirling engine is a heat engine that was invented in the early nineteenth century. The author, as is clear, was a certain Stirling named Robert, a priest from Scotland. The device is an external combustion engine, where the body moves in a closed container, constantly changing its temperature.
Due to the spread of another type of motor, it was almost forgotten. Nevertheless, thanks to its advantages, today the Stirling engine (many amateurs build it at home with their own hands) is making a comeback again.
The main difference from an internal combustion engine is that the heat energy comes from outside, and is not generated in the engine itself, as in an internal combustion engine.
You can imagine a closed air volume enclosed in a housing with a membrane, that is, a piston. When the housing heats up, the air expands and does work, thus bending the piston. Then cooling occurs and it bends again. This is the cycle of operation of the mechanism.
It is no wonder that many people make their own thermoacoustic Stirling engine at home. This requires the bare minimum of tools and materials, which can be found in everyone’s home. Let's look at two different ways to easily create one.
To make a Stirling engine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
This is all. The rest is a matter of simple technique.
A firebox and two cylinders for the base are prepared from tin, of which the Stirling engine, made with your own hands, will consist. The dimensions are selected independently, taking into account the purposes for which this device is intended. Let's assume that the motor is being made for demonstration. Then the development of the master cylinder will be from twenty to twenty-five centimeters, no more. The remaining parts must adapt to it.
At the top of the cylinder, two protrusions and holes with a diameter of four to five millimeters are made to move the piston. The elements will act as bearings for the location of the crank device.
Next, they make the working fluid of the motor (it will become ordinary water). Tin circles are soldered to the cylinder, which is rolled into a pipe. Holes are made in them and brass tubes from twenty-five to thirty-five centimeters in length and with a diameter of four to five millimeters are inserted. At the end, they check how sealed the chamber has become by filling it with water.
Next comes the turn of the displacer. For manufacturing, a wooden blank is taken. The machine is used to ensure that it takes the shape of a regular cylinder. The displacer should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the cylinder. The optimal height is selected after the Stirling engine is made with your own hands. Therefore, at this stage, the length should include some margin.
The spoke is turned into a cylinder rod. A hole is made in the center of the wooden container that fits the rod, and it is inserted. In the upper part of the rod it is necessary to provide space for the connecting rod device.
Then they take copper tubes four and a half centimeters long and two and a half centimeters in diameter. A circle of tin is soldered to the cylinder. A hole is made on the sides of the walls to connect the container with the cylinder.
The piston is also adjusted on a lathe to the diameter of the large cylinder from the inside. The rod is connected at the top in a hinged manner.
The assembly is completed and the mechanism is adjusted. To do this, the piston is inserted into a larger cylinder and connected to another smaller cylinder.
A crank mechanism is built on a large cylinder. Fix the engine part using a soldering iron. The main parts are fixed on a wooden base.
The cylinder is filled with water and a candle is placed under the bottom. A Stirling engine, made by hand from start to finish, is tested for performance.
The engine can be made in another way. To do this you will need the following materials:
Foam rubber is very often used to make a simple, low-power Stirling engine at home with your own hands. A displacer for the motor is prepared from it. Cut out a foam circle. The diameter should be slightly smaller than that of a tin can, and the height should be slightly more than half.
A hole is made in the center of the cover for the future connecting rod. To ensure that it runs smoothly, the paper clip is rolled into a spiral and soldered to the lid.
The foam circle is pierced in the middle with a thin wire and a screw and secured on top with a washer. Then the piece of paper clip is connected by soldering.
The displacer is pushed into the hole in the lid and connected to the can by soldering to seal it. A small loop is made on the paperclip, and another, larger hole is made in the lid.
The tin sheet is rolled into a cylinder and soldered, and then attached to the can so that there are no cracks left at all.
The paperclip is turned into a crankshaft. The spacing should be exactly ninety degrees. The knee above the cylinder is made slightly larger than the other.
The remaining paper clips are turned into shaft stands. The membrane is made as follows: the cylinder is wrapped in polyethylene film, pressed and secured with thread.
The connecting rod is made from a paper clip, which is inserted into a piece of rubber, and the finished part is attached to the membrane. The length of the connecting rod is made such that at the lower shaft point the membrane is drawn into the cylinder, and at the highest point it is extended. The second part of the connecting rod is made in the same way.
One is then glued to the membrane and the other to the displacer.
The legs for the jar can also be made from paper clips and soldered. For the crank, a CD is used.
Now the whole mechanism is ready. All that remains is to place and light a candle under it, and then give a push through the flywheel.
This is a low-temperature Stirling engine (built with my own hands). Of course, on an industrial scale such devices are manufactured in a completely different way. However, the principle remains the same: the air volume is heated and then cooled. And this is constantly repeated.
Finally, look at these drawings of the Stirling engine (you can make it yourself without any special skills). Maybe you've already got the idea and want to do something similar?
A Stirling engine is an engine that can be powered by thermal energy. In this case, the heat source is absolutely not important. The main thing is that there is a temperature difference, in which case this engine will work. The author figured out how to make a model of such an engine from a Coca-Cola can.
On final stage The lid must be cut as shown in the picture. This is done so that the displacer wire does not catch on the edges of the lid. Household scissors are suitable for such work.
As a result, on one side of the cotton wool you need to form a spiral of wire so that it does not come out of the cotton wool, and on the other side a loop is made from wire. Next, a fishing line is tied to this loop, which is subsequently pulled through the center of the diaphragm. The vulcanized rubber should be in the middle of the container.
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