21 June 2014 Hello! So we ordered the RK-12PNM-R (N) condo, and brought us the RK-12PNM-R, and immediately a bunch of questions arose: 1. Is there a prototype of this RK-12PNM-R air conditioner (without (N)) automatic condensate removal or something else? 2. The instructions for the RK-12PNM-R air conditioner say that there is an automatic condensate removal function, but there is a drain pipe in the kit and an internal condensate tank is mentioned, which must be drained periodically ... How to understand this? The instruction is incorrect (one-piece drawn from another model (?), although the name is correct), or there is indeed a tank, but access to it is not visually visible! 3. How to properly install this model in general (this is completely incomprehensible from the instructions), that is, we have: a hole with a plug on top of the device, a hole with a plug on the bottom of the device, a hose. And what where? Probably, open the top plug, pull the hose there and into your container ..? And what to do with the bottom, remove the cork? Or not ... And then how to understand the statement about the presence of a function of automatic condensate removal ... How would it all look in the absence of this option, what's the difference? And about the internal tank mentioned in the instructions ... where is it and what should I do with it?

/ Vladimir /

Answer

Hello! Feature of this model mobile air conditioner DANTEX is the automatic removal of condensate by evaporating it. How it works? The condensate formed on the evaporator drains into pan No. 1. Tray No. 1 has special holes through which condensate in drip mode enters the hot zone of the condenser, where it quickly evaporates. Water vapor is removed simultaneously with hot air through the duct to the street. The discharge of condensate into the hot air discharge pipe after the condenser is practically eliminated at humidity below 85%. At 100% humidity, the condensate will still drain into the lower tray No. 2, and if it overflows, the air conditioner will stop with the "P1" error. To eliminate this error, drain the condensate from the lower bath by opening the rubber drain plug. You can also use the supplied transparent, flexible tubing. The system has two overflow sensors in both trays. Even if the capillaries of the upper pan become clogged and it overflows, the compressor will be stopped by the same "P1" error. And then the water will have to be drained from the upper pan by opening the rubber drain plug. If this option is not available, a condensate tank is installed at the bottom of the unit. The condensate flows into this tank and must be drained periodically or the system will stop when this tank is overfilled, or, by removing the tank, connect a drain to the waste pipe to the outlet from the drain pan, observing the rule of "jet break", to cut off waste odors. However, our customers in Russia have not had any problems with condensate so far.

It often happens that when you turn on the air conditioner after the winter, when the air conditioner has not been used for a long time or just during its operation in summer period it can be noticed that dripping water from indoor air conditioner no matter where it is installed - in a room, in an apartment or in an office. This phenomenon is a problem, especially if expensive repairs are made in the room or it is hot outside and a working air conditioner is simply necessary. AT In this article we will describe the main reasons why the air conditioner flows and options for solving them.

The air conditioner leaked. Causes and Solutions

There are a number of reasons why water drips from the indoor unit of the air conditioner:

1. Overflow of the condensate collector. Occurs when you just turn on the air conditioner and it is running at full power to remove excess heat in the room, usually in hot summer heat. Water does not have time to leave through the drainage system and water flows from the air conditioner directly into the room.

2. Freezing of the heat exchanger of the indoor unit, which leads to the formation of a large amount of water, which overflows the condensate collector and the air conditioner may leak. Freezing can occur for many reasons, the most common being the lack of regular maintenance of the air conditioner and contamination of the fan impeller, contamination of the heat exchanger, contamination of the filters of the indoor unit, etc.

3. One of common causes when water flows from the air conditioner, it is clogged drainage system or failure of the drain pump. In this case, the condensate formed in the indoor unit of the air conditioner is not drained, resulting in air conditioner leakage.

4. Incorrect location of the drain hose, i.e. above the lowest point of the condensate collector. In this case, water, moving by gravity, cannot overcome the rise and begins to flow in the opposite direction directly into the room. This happens when people, without going into details, independently remove and move indoor unit air conditioner lower, for example, when repairing and installing new ceilings.

5. The freon tubes that supply the working fluid to the air conditioning system are loose or loose at their joints (nuts), as a result of which the circuit is depressurized and the working fluid begins to leak drop by drop.

6. The air conditioner was incorrectly charged during installation. An excessive amount of working fluid is in a closed circuit, as a result of which excessive pressure is formed, which can lead not only to leakage of the air conditioner, but also to its breakdown.

In this video you can see how it usually looks when the air conditioner is flowing:

The air conditioner is leaking in the apartment what to do

If the air conditioner is leaking due to the overflow of the condensate tank, then you can try to remove it, drain the water and reinstall it.

When the heat exchanger freezes, it is better to invite specialists to service the air conditioner and check its performance. It is possible that one cleaning will not be enough and it will be necessary to refuel the air conditioner with freon, which is also the reason for the freezing of the heat exchanger. It happens that the control board, the sensor on the evaporator or the expansion valve (TRV) fails.

If the reason why is the air conditioner running in the room is a malfunction of the drainage pump (pump), in this case it is recommended to repair or replace it, most likely you will have to contact a specialist. But if the reason lies in the wrong location of the drainage hose, then you can try to position it under a slope, providing a natural slope and draining the water.

In cases where the leakage of the air conditioner is caused by the loosening of the nuts at the junctions of the refrigerant pipe with the indoor unit of the air conditioner, then they can be tightened with a wrench of a suitable size. But be careful not to strip the thread!

These are not all the reasons why the air conditioner drips. It is possible that an internal defect in the evaporator was revealed - a small hole in copper pipes, which leads to depressurization of the system and the working fluid begins to drip into the room.

If you cannot independently identify the reason why the air conditioner dripped and fix it yourself, we recommend that you contact a specialist.

Air conditioner indoor unit leaking? Sometimes the indoor unit of the air conditioner begins to leak, that is, water drops form on its underside. In order to successfully eliminate the leak of the indoor unit of the wall-mounted sploit - the system must quickly and accurately find out the cause of the leak.

Air conditioner indoor unit is leaking.

So, there can be several reasons:

1. The most common cause is a clogged drain. In order to clarify the situation, it is enough to look out the window and carefully see if the resulting condensate is draining from the drain pipe to the outside. In summer or late spring, that is, with quite high temperature outdoor air, condensation should begin to drip no later than ten minutes after the start of the air conditioner. You can check the correctness of establishing the cause in another way. To begin with, unplug the air conditioner, then remove the top cover of the front panel by slightly pressing on the two plastic clips located on both sides. The fruit of the cover you will see the air filters, they also need to be removed. Under them is a radiator, so you need to pour water from a bottle on it. Do not overdo it - half a liter will be enough. Immediately look out the window - water should flow from the drainage system, and it should be easy and unhindered, just go, not drip! If you don’t find water outside the window, then most likely the leak occurs at the bottom of the block located in the apartment. If, nevertheless, water flows, but drop by drop, then you need to check the drainage hose itself for clogging. If the hose is clean and not clogged, then you will now need to remove the casing that covers the indoor unit. To do this, you need to unscrew the plugs and unscrew the screws that you will see at the bottom of the casing. Now press the cover latches at the top with a screwdriver and remove the cover completely. Under it is a water container - it and the drain hole must be carefully freed from accumulated moisture and dirt, and then collected in a strictly reverse order. Once the entire system is assembled, check for leaks with water as described above.

2. The second most common reason is the clogging of the radiator and blower impeller with dust and dirt. Because of this, the efficiency of blowing the radiator is greatly reduced. In order to eliminate this cause, you need to completely remove the box, rearrange the condensate collection tank to the side and thoroughly vacuum the radiator itself and the fan blades. 3. The reason for the leakage of the indoor unit may be poor-quality and unprofessional installation of the air conditioner. The air conditioner may leak because the indoor unit was not installed evenly, that is, not in level, and the necessary slope was not provided for the drainage tube for unhindered moisture removal. Usually this reason is revealed just a couple of hours after installation.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner, and any other refrigeration machine evaporative type, based on physical property gas (or an easily evaporating liquid such as freon, ammonia) cools its volume with a sharp expansion. This process constructively takes place in a special evaporation chamber, which cools the air.

At the same time, another phenomenon of physics comes into play, more commonly known as “reaching the dew point”. In nature, this looks like the appearance of tiny dew drops on a cold surface and is called condensate.

In fact, it is a by-product of the operation of the air conditioner and, in order to ensure the normal functioning of the device, it needs to be removed from

Where does the condensate come from and where does it go?

Where it comes from has already been described a few paragraphs earlier and now we will reveal the topic of condensate removal from the air conditioner and why it is needed:

1. - this is water, and since air conditioners are complex electromechanical devices, water can cause their premature failure.
2. For a day, up to 20 liters or more of atmospheric liquid can run from one unit - with in large numbers You can easily assemble a whole ton of devices in a building. Such a volume can already be called the risk of flooding the basement floors.
3. Stagnant water is an excellent hiding place for the development of mold, bacteria and other pathogens.

Even these three arguments are enough to make sure the implementation is necessary. The main purpose of such a system is to remove excess moisture outside the premises.

Health impact

The main danger of clogging the drainage is not the consequences of flooding the neighbors or the breakdown of an expensive device, but the threat to the life and health of the inhabitants of the cool room. If there is dirt, water and heat, then this automatically creates the risk of creating a whole incubator of various infections in the split system:

• Molds. Some strains can cause respiratory diseases up to lung cancer.
• bacteria. There is a specific variety that causes Legionnaires' Disease, a bacterial inflammation of the lungs. At the same time, the mortality rate is very high.
• Bad smell the least of the possible evils. At the same time it serves as a final warning It's time to clean the drain.

It should be remembered that prevention drain system should be done at least once every three months. Even if the air conditioner did not work all this time, nothing prevented dirt from accumulating and pathogenic organisms from developing in all its nooks and crannies.

Self-maintenance of the drainage system

To blow drain hose and not resorting to the expensive service of calling a specialist, you will need three things:

1. Wish . And it will definitely appear after the room starts to smell very unpleasant.
2. Tools . Screwdrivers, pliers and a knife are usually enough to dismantle the housing cover, pipe clamp and mounting screws.
3. Disinfectant. It will help to get rid of hard-to-remove plaque on the walls and in places of bends. Most best result show concentrated chlorine preparations for the dirtiest surfaces.

To carry out cleaning, you will only need to remove the top cover of the device, disconnect the tube and blow strongly into it with your mouth. If the installation was done correctly and there is no kink on the pipe, then all the accumulated dirt will fly out from the opposite end. After that, it is necessary to fill in the disinfectant there and let it work with internal surfaces twenty minutes. After the specified time, just rinse the tube clean water and assemble everything back, following the assembly sequence.

Please note that this is an incomplete set of hygiene measures that must be carried out quarterly.

• It's better to do it right now than to redo it later. It all depends on the installers who will install it. The degree of professionalism can be judged by the equipment of the brigade. If they are dressed in overalls, use personal protective equipment, then we can say with a high degree of confidence that they are professionals and know the intricacies of the work.
• In the event of a problem on the equipment already put into operation, it makes sense to invite a specialized organization. Hardly anyone has a compressor at home high pressure and powerful chemicals, so to speak “in reserve” - they cost a lot of money and are sold, most often, in kilograms, with a consumption of 100 grams per cleaning.
• In addition to cleaning the drain, it is also necessary to clean the air filters, impeller, outdoor unit and . For this procedure, cleaning units are used. trademark"Kercher". You can do it yourself, but it will take several days for an unprepared person.

When operating the air conditioner on outdoor and outdoor unit water condenses, which is discharged through the drainage holes. We will figure out how to drain condensate from the air conditioner into the sewer.

For the air conditioner, it is imperative to install a condensate drain.

Pros and cons of condensate disposal options

There are 4 ways to remove the resulting water:

1. The output to the street is cheap and simple, but the flowing water during gusts of wind can fall on the windows, walls and equipment of neighbors. In some cities there is an official ban on this method of removing condensate.
2. Conclusion to the tank - more aesthetic option requiring regular maintenance.
3. Discharge of condensate into the sewer by gravity. The most preferred option, which has a significant limitation, is that condensate is discharged by gravity if it is possible to lay drainage pipes with a slope of at least 2, and preferably 3 degrees.
4. Forced draining of condensate from the air conditioner to the sewer. If the location of windows and doors makes it impossible to lay pipes at the desired slope, a special pump is used that drains water under pressure.

Consider the features of water discharge into the sewer.

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Applicable materials

Connecting the air conditioner drain to the sewer may require the following materials:

• pipes made of polypropylene for draining condensate, with a diameter of 20-25 mm;
• drainage hoses - are a flexible corrugated pipe with a diameter of 16 or 20 mm;
• drainage siphon - can be replaced by a simple bending of the hose, forming a water seal;
• adapters;
• seals;
• thermal insulation - prevents the formation of condensate on the surface of the outlet pipe;
• connecting clamp - eliminates the possibility of leakage at the junction drain pipe block with drainage pipe;
• for pipes - avoids deformation of the pipe, it is recommended to install every meter;
• pump - used when it is impossible to drain condensate by gravity.

The purchase of materials must be carried out according to calculations made on the basis of the scheme according to which condensate will be drained from the air conditioner to the domestic sewer.

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Organization of the removal of air conditioner condensate into the sewer

To organize the drainage of water from the outdoor unit, a hole must be drilled in the wall. This hole must be well protected from moisture and wind. At incorrect installation drain hoses, moisture from the drain pipe may wash out the hole with outside house walls.

Strobes are made in the walls of the room and pipes are laid in them, through which condensate is drained from the air conditioner into the sewer. When combining in one line of outlets from several air conditioners, it may be necessary to increase the diameter of the drain hoses.

Line isolation provides additional protection corrugated pipe or vinyl tape.

The output of the air conditioner to the sewer can be carried out in the drain of the sink or in the pipe leading to the riser. The use of a water trap created by bending a hose is not recommended if the air conditioner does not operate regularly. The water in the pipe will dry up and will not stop the spread of sewer odors into the apartment. We recommend not to save money and purchase a full-fledged drainage siphon with a check valve.

The use of pumps also has its drawbacks: it creates additional noise, requires preventive maintenance, and sometimes emergency repair of the pump.

After connecting all systems, a test discharge of water into the drainage baths of the air conditioner is carried out. After checking the tightness of all joints, they begin to seal the strobe.

Properly organized drainage from air conditioners to the sewer will effectively protect against leakage, prevent the appearance of foreign odors in the room, and does not require frequent and expensive maintenance.