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» How to make drainage pipes on the site. Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess water. Drainage of the site - drainage and its types

How to make drainage pipes on the site. Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess water. Drainage of the site - drainage and its types

Quite often, plots allocated for gardens, summer cottages and private buildings are located in areas with excessive moisture. To remove excess water from the surface of the earth or from the depths of the soil, a system of trenches of various types is being built to help solve this problem. You also need drainage in a sloped area if there is excess moisture in the soil or if it falls a large number of precipitation.

To understand how to properly drain in your garden plot, you need to get acquainted with their types. According to the method of the device, drainages are divided into several types. The first is the open type of drainage. It is a system of trenches with a depth of 20 to 30 cm, the walls of which should be located at a slope of 30 degrees relative to the bottom.

It is used to remove excess water from the soil surface in areas during heavy rainfall and spring snowmelt. All trenches are dug at a certain slope so that the water flows towards the general sewer or some kind of water collector. So that the walls of open drainage do not crumble and collapse, they are strengthened with stones, concrete or plants with a strong and branched root system.

Open type of drainage

The second can be called closed or deep drainage, which can be horizontal or vertical. This species helps to drain water inside the soil in areas with a high level of groundwater. Deep horizontal drainage is a network of special pipes with holes connected to a reservoir, sewer, ravine or well. They are located at a depth of 0.8 to 1.5 meters and are covered with gravel and sand.

Vertical drainage is called catchment wells, where water accumulates from a system of trenches, and which are connected to a sewer or reservoir, a ravine. If there is no way to connect such wells with sewage, then the water is simply pumped out using a submersible pump and taken out in tanks.

It is also worth mentioning the backfill type of drainage, which is most often used on heavy and clay soils. It is a fairly deep trench, filled up to half with large rubble, on which a fine fraction of rubble is poured, and on top is a layer of ordinary garden soil (from 15 to 35 cm).

Closed or deep drainage
Backfill type of drainage

Pipes for drainage

While creating drainage system to drain water in a garden or house area, as a rule, special perforated pipes are used, made of various materials. The term perforated means that over the entire surface of the pipes there are holes of various diameters (from 1.5 to 5 mm). Now, mainly for the construction of drainage, they take pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyethylene low pressure(HDPE) and polyethylene high pressure(PVD). They have high strength, pass water well, corrosion does not appear on them and they are quite resistant to aggressive environments.

They also produce asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes, but they are rarely used because they are heavy and difficult to carry out. installation work high enough. And their service life is less than plastic drainage pipes. For asbestos-cement and ceramic, it is 30 years, and for plastic - from 50 to 60 years.

Plastic drainage pipes are produced as single-walled with perforation (holes) and a geotextile filter on top of the pipe and double-layer with perforation and also with a geotextile filter. There are also pipes with a filter made of coconut material, which are used on soils with large quantity clay. Drainage pipes with a geotextile filter are used on sandy lands. Pipe filters are needed so that the holes in the pipes, sand and gravel are not clogged with silt and small particles earth.

Single-walled perforated pipes are used at a depth of 2 to 4 meters, and double-layer pipes are used at a depth of up to 6 meters. Pipe diameter can vary from 63 mm to 200 mm. All plastic drainage pipes have a corrugated surface. Smooth inner surface plastic pipes help to pass quickly a large amount of water. In addition, these pipes are easy to install and have a democratic price.


Few people are lucky enough to become the owner of a completely flat piece of land. On a flat surface, it's easy...

We do surface drainage

To know how to make drainage on the site, you need to know its construction technology. A drainage system for draining water from the soil surface is usually made from main or main trenches, which are often located along the perimeter of the site. They have a slope towards the sewers. There are also auxiliary trenches that run across the territory of the entire site from places where the largest amount of water is formed to the main ones. Accordingly, the auxiliary trenches have a slope towards the main ones. Usually it is from 1 to 3 cm per meter.

Before proceeding with the construction of the drainage, be sure to draw a plan of the site and the drainage system. Mark out trenches and monitor the slope during excavation with tools. This will help to avoid unpleasant surprises after all the work is completed. Remember that the walls of the surface drainage are at an angle of about 30 degrees to the bottom. It is desirable to strengthen them. This can be backfilling with crushed stone or gravel, as well as finishing with large stones, concreting and planting various plants.

After digging the trenches, be sure to check how the water will drain through the drainage system. To do this, put enough water on it and see how it passes through it. If it stagnates in some area, then it is better to eliminate this problem before the end of the work.



It is also worth noting that an open drainage system can become the center landscape composition plot, if issued beautiful combinations different in shape, size and color of stones.

We make deep drainage with our own hands

A network of drainage trenches to remove water in the depths of the soil is dug according to a plan previously drawn up and marked on the surface with the necessary slopes. The width of the trench at the bottom is usually at least 40 cm, and the depth is determined by the project. But usually it is from 0.8 to 1.5-2 meters. The slope varies from 2 to 5 cm per 1 running meter trenches.

A small layer of clean river sand (coarse-grained) about 10 cm high is poured onto an even and compacted bottom of the trench, which is also carefully leveled and compacted.

Then the bottom and walls of the trench are covered with a non-woven fabric of geotextile, the density of which is about 200 grams per square meter. Moreover, the fabric is positioned so that it should completely cover the walls and still go to its edges by 15-25 cm. A layer of washed rubble 15 to 25 cm high is poured onto the fabric, which directly depends on the composition and permeability of the soil. On lands with a large amount of sand, the layer height is about 15 cm, and where there is a lot of clay in the composition, the gravel layer is increased to 25 cm.

Crushed stone is also necessarily compacted and leveled, taking into account the required slope. It is necessary to check the slope after each poured layer, its alignment and compaction. A perforated drainage pipe is laid out on it, which is then covered in layers with crushed stone or gravel. Moreover, each layer must be carefully rammed. The layer of crushed stone on top of the pipe is from 10 to 25 cm.

On top of the drainage pipe and the backfill around it, the edges of the non-woven fabric of the geotextile are wrapped on top of each other with an overlap. Then a layer of sand is poured from a height of 10 to 30 cm, after which the trench is filled with ordinary soil, which was taken out during digging. remember, that river sand, crushed stone and gravel used in the construction of a deep drainage system must be clean of earth, clay or other small particles. Drainage made in this way will drain water well and last for many years.


When we buy a building plot, the question arises: to choose a flat or sloping site. Frequently offered…

slope drainage

From sites located on the slopes, it is also necessary to remove excess water from the surface and from the inside of the soil. After all, a large amount of precipitation and water formed as a result of melting snow cause soil erosion, contribute to the occurrence of landslides, and also erode the foundations of various buildings, paths, retaining walls and steps. For such areas, it is imperative to combine open and deep types of drainage.

Actually, the arrangement of a deep drainage system in areas on a slope is not much different from that which is carried out in horizontal areas. But still, there are some points that must be taken into account when performing these rather complex works. With this arrangement of the site, it immediately becomes clear that the well for collecting or sewerage water should be located at the lowest point. The main or main trenches are dug, if possible, next to the fence.



Auxiliary trenches are directed to the main one at a certain angle. It turns out something like a Christmas tree. If the slope of the terrain is not enough for a good descent of water, then the trenches are dug, gradually deepening so that in general the slope is from 2 to 4 cm per 1 meter of linear drainage.

If the site on the slope occupies enough large area, then it is worth dividing it with a transverse drainage trench, which will collect water from the territory located above. Water from it will drain through buried drainage pipes into the lower water intake or sewer.

It is worth remembering that the construction of a drainage system on a site located on a slope requires preparation, attention, accuracy and, of course, financial costs.

Do not be upset if you got an uneven piece of land. Thoughtful and competent drainage will help turn the cons of your garden into pluses.


The dream of a landscaped suburban area may well become a reality. Adjoining territory with luxurious lawns, beautiful garden, a productive garden, gazebos, patios, alpine slides - today all this can be arranged on soil of any quality and lands of any geodetic complexity, the main thing is to approach the decision correctly and not forget about such a procedure as site drainage.

This system is expensive, so in order not to get into a mess and not pay twice, you should figure out whether the existing landscape needs drainage, and if so, what type.

Why do you need drainage on the site

What are the functions of drainage? The tasks of the system are as follows:

1. Collection of melt water.

2.​ Rainfall drainage.

3. Removal of groundwater outside the boundaries of the territory.

It is not always advisable to comprehensively drain the soil, laying deep and surface drainage at the same time. Deep drainage systems are required only for swampy soil and those lands where the groundwater level is high. Linear drainage will not be superfluous anywhere. Seasonal flooding is characteristic of any climatic zone. In addition, the quality of our soil, in general, leaves much to be desired. Clay soils have poor permeability, which also provokes the formation of puddles.

Linear drainage to prevent puddles

Flooded territories are death not only for plants, but also for wooden buildings, and decorative structures. At best, they will have to be seriously repaired. At worst, demolish and install new ones. Both situations are financially costly, and given that without a drainage device on the site, there is a prospect of doing global reconstructions regularly, then it makes sense to think about preventing water stagnation.


Site deep drainage system

When Site Drainage Is Necessary

It will be necessary to deal with the organization of drainage from the earth, provided that summer cottage located on a steep slope. In order to prevent the fertile part of the soil from being blown away by storm flows, it will be necessary to break a surface, but not a point, but a linear drainage system with transversely broken channels capable of intercepting water and redirecting it to a storm sewer.


Drainage of a site on a slope

The reason to do the drainage device on the site with your own hands will be placing it in a lowland. In this case, it is initially a reservoir for collecting water flowing to it. In this embodiment, drainage elements are located along the perimeter of the territory.


Drainage of a site located in a lowland

No less a scourge and flat areas where water is poorly absorbed by the soil. This is where you need to design a whole system of point or linear drainage systems covering the entire area.

The fact that the site needs to be drained will be told by gathering and standing puddles for a long time. Examine the lawn. Assess the condition of the bushes. Check if the soil is blocking. These hints are effective in already inhabited territories. On the virgin lands, you will have to focus on what is happening in the district. Have the neighbors prepared a foundation pit for the house and dug holes for the fence posts? Fabulous! Look into them. If there is an accumulation of water inside, try to figure out where it flows from. Ask the old-timers the level of standing water in the wells over the past few years. If it turns out that groundwater lies less than a meter from the surface, then it is most likely impossible to do without a drainage device on the site.


Point drainage system

Surface drainage

"Drainage can be done with linear or chiseled drainage"

The simplest solution. The surface system provides collection of water from drains and the territory of the site. By providing free runoff paths for rainfall, it saves the soil from waterlogging.


Surface drainage ensures the collection of water from the site

To equip such a drainage site with your own hands, you do not need to involve specialists. There will be no large-scale work. Drainage can be done with a linear or chiseled drainage system. Point drains are responsible for the local collection of moisture. It can be drains from roofs, water from irrigation taps. For drainage of large areas, it is correct to break the linear drainage system.


Point drainage is responsible for the local collection of moisture

Surface drainage methods

An open drainage system can consist of both randomly generated grooves and parallel ones. Each scheme has lateral supplies that carry water that has fallen into the drainage to the central drain. Which type of surface drainage device to give preference to should be chosen according to the type of soil and topographical conclusions.


Open drainage channel

Drainage on a plot of random type

The ditches of such storm drains are adapted to collect water from the soil of low permeability, where there are extensive low-lying areas of stagnation, the elimination of which by smoothing the surface is impossible or unprofitable.

By and large, random linear drainage is the prerogative of the fields. The ditches scattered across the field do not differ in scale. Most often they are quite small and do not intersect with the main sewerage lines.

The task of random grooves is to ensure the outflow of moisture accumulated in low-lying islands. To make random drainage of the site with your own hands, it is enough just to dig small grooves with the appropriate slope angle. The earth extracted at the same time can be used for filling small lowlands.


Linear drainage will ensure the outflow of accumulated moisture

Field storm channels should follow through the main mass of depressions towards the natural slope of the site. Only in this way will the territory be guaranteed full drainage.

Drainage in a section of parallel type

It is rational to equip this type of drainage system on flat, difficult to dry soils with numerous small depression flaws. The parallel arrangement of the grooves does not indicate their equidistance. Stepping distance depends on soil conditions.

Closed drainage


deep drainage helps to reduce groundwater levels

Closed drainage structures are universal. With no less efficiency than surface drainage, they can drain melt and storm water. Since the system is hidden underground, it does not interfere with landscaping, which makes it quite popular among gardeners.

vertical drainage

The main elements of this type of drainage system are wells, traditionally equipped near the house. The outflow of water accumulated in them occurs with the help of pumps.

Drainage of a site of this type is carried out only according to a professionally drawn up project. Without engineering knowledge and specific skills, you should not take on the drainage device on the site with your own hands. The work will require the involvement of specific hydraulic equipment, so leave this task to those who know exactly how to do it.


Site vertical drainage system

Do-it-yourself site drainage: the main nuances

The choice of the type of drainage system is mainly influenced by the cause of the flooding of the territory. Put in order clay lands, which are characterized by a delay in melting and atmospheric water, it is possible by equipping surface drainage. Grooves open type drainage will be enough to quickly remove excess moisture from the serviced area.

If the reason for flooding the basement, erosion of the foundation, swelling of the soil is groundwater, then the problem will have to be solved with a thorough approach, that is, by deep drainage of the soil. Both options for the drainage device on the site are available in an independent version.

Point drainage

To create a local open drainage network, it is not necessary to draw up a design scheme. Its arrangement is natural in the case when the flooding of the site occurs only at certain points and only when excessive precipitation occurs. Gentle areas are most often flooded: the area near the porch, gazebos. It is guaranteed that water will accumulate in relief irregularities.


Places for mounting a point drainage system

In the event that the problem area is located near the very borders of the land, it is rational to equip the drainage on the site with a conventional dug trench that extends beyond its boundaries to ensure runoff.

In steel cases, having noticed the places of stagnant water, they are equipped with dug-in water intakes or closed tanks. The water collected in them, later it will be possible to water the garden.

Linear drainage

"Security uninterrupted operation surface drainage system is due to the calculation of the correct slope of laying sewers"

Digging ditches through the entire site or certain corners of it - best way drain clay soils. Here it does not hurt to sketch rough plan future system, on which to mark all the drainage branches and the location of the drainage well, to which it is planned to reduce them.


Example of a linear drainage plan

Ensuring the uninterrupted operation of the surface drainage system occurs by calculating the correct slope for laying sewers. The process of arranging linear drainage systems will be greatly facilitated by the presence of a natural slope near the site. On flat surfaces, you will have to create an angle of inclination artificially. This condition is mandatory. Ignoring it will cause the collected water to stagnate in the drainage channels.


For linear drainage on a flat surface create a slope angle

How much to lay channels is determined by the absorbency of the soil. The more clayey it is, the denser the drainage network is branched. The depth of the trenches dug for drainage of the site with their own hands is about half a meter. The width of the groove depends on its distance from storage tank. The widest will be the main branch of the drainage system, where water flows from all parts of the site.

After the drainage system at the site has been dug, they begin to check the quality of its functioning. To do this, a strong stream of water is launched through the irrigation hoses through the channels. Properly supply water from several points at the same time.

Evaluation is done by eye. If the water drains slowly and accumulates somewhere, you will have to correct the slope and perhaps even widen the groove.

After making sure that the drain is ideal, you can start decorating the drainage area. The view of open ditches is unaesthetic. When working on a drainage device on a site with your own hands, it is easiest to arrange it with different fractional gravel. At the bottom of the grooves, you can put larger elements of stones and sprinkle small ones on top. If desired, the last layer is made of marble chips.


Linear drainage decoration

If this is not available, replace the material with decorative gravel. What does this mean? Having selected a part of fine gravel, it is painted in blue colors, can different shades. By pouring it into the channels of linear drainage systems, you will get the illusion of running water. For complete association with streams, plant the banks of ditches flowering plants. Thus, you will get not just a functional drainage system, but also a luxurious design element.

Channels dug along the perimeter of the site are often covered with a decorative lattice.


Decorative grating for drainage channel

Filling surface drainage with gravel is not only a matter of aesthetics. In fact, it is also an opportunity to strengthen the walls of the ditches, preventing them from crumbling, and also to protect the bottom from being washed out. Therefore, by using a gravel backfill, you will extend the operational life of your drainage system.

Service features

When caring for surface drainage Special attention given to the purity of the output channels. Even small build-ups on the walls and bottom can cause a decrease in operating efficiency. Drains are inspected after each rainstorm. All obstacles that appear in the way of the drain must be removed.


Drainage system needs regular cleaning

The second moment will be the control of the slope angle of the linear drainage elements. When smoothing it, you will have to adjust the bottom of the channel by digging or backfilling.

The point drainage is cleaned manually.

Do-it-yourself deep drainage of the site

If the problem of waterlogging is not in super clay soil, but in close-lying groundwater, then you will have to be puzzled by the development closed system drainage. The types of work are arranged in the following order:

1. Understanding the depth of laying drainage pipes on the site. This indicator is affected by the density of the earth. The higher its numbers, the less deep the drainage. Let's look at an example. Drainage pipes are immersed in sandy soil by at least a meter; for loams, this parameter is already 80 cm. In clay soils, pipes are located no deeper than 75 cm. Why can't drains be laid higher? In addition to soil density, there is another indicator. It's about the depth of its freezing. The drainages you are laying should lie below this mark, then the pipes will not be deformed.


Example of a deep drainage device

2. Choose the type of pipes. If surface drainage can be saddled without any specific conductors, then for deep drainage, a drain section will have to be purchased. What does it offer modern assortment? Drainage elements of the system are manufactured:

- made of plastic;

– ceramics;

- asbestos.

Ceramic pipes are quite expensive for drainage on the site, but they will last for centuries. There are farmsteads where the covered drainage of the area made of ceramics has been functioning for 150 years. Asbestos-cement products, although durable, are practically not used today due to their environmental insecurity.

At the peak of popularity, inexpensive and practical perforated plastic. As part of the deep drainage of the site, the pipes from it will need additional protection from clogging with small particles of soil. If this is not taken care of initially, then after a very short time, the drains will clog and stop letting water through.


Perforated plastic pipes for drainage

It is good to use geotextiles to isolate the drainage pipes of the site. It is possible not to wrap the drains with filter material only in clay soil. Here it will be enough to lay the pipe on a twenty-centimeter layer of gravel. In loam, this option will not work. Pipes will have to be wrapped in geotextile fabric. Worst of all will be the owners of sandy areas. Here, the components included in the deep drainage device of the site will have to be not only wrapped with geotextiles, but also covered from all sides with a thick layer of gravel.

It is better to entrust the drainage of a summer cottage to specialists, however, if this is not possible, then you can try to figure it out on your own. First of all, it is necessary to analyze the types of drainage and the various schemes for its device, as well as its purpose. Drainage is simply necessary because this system protects the house and yard from excess moisture. If installed incorrectly, the effect may be reversed. This will lead to flooding and washing out of the soil.

Kinds

To begin with, it is necessary to analyze its types and find out the features of the work of each.

Drainage happens:

  • superficial;
  • deep.

Surface drainage can be done without the involvement of craftsmen. This is a relatively easy job.

Deep drainage is best done at the stage of building a house.

The building also needs protection. It often happens that the flow of groundwater penetrates into underground premises. Water can flood the cellar, garage, underground parking or recreation room. It all depends on what is below the surface of the earth.

Surface drainage of the site is carried out using various storm water inlets and trays. This type of drainage got its name because the entire system is located on the surface. Trays can successfully cope with rainwater flows, as well as moisture that forms as a result of melting snow.

Surface drainage is of two types: point and linear.

  1. Such a system consists of water collectors, which, in turn, are connected to sewage. Water collection devices are usually installed under drains, in lowlands and under taps.
  2. Linear. The system resembles a canal that has a slope towards the well. That's where the moisture comes from the rain.

It cannot be said that one type of drainage is better than the other. Often both varieties are used together for greater effectiveness. All devices in the system require regular cleaning or they stop functioning properly. Good organized drain works great and does the job.

With a point layout, the trays are installed, first of all, under the sewers of the house. Otherwise, water will constantly fall on the foundation and on the site.

Improper layout will lead to the penetration of moisture into underground rooms.

Trays must be installed so that they are underground. From them it is necessary to lay pipes to the sewer. From above the tray is covered with a lattice. It is both protective and decorative element simultaneously. To clean the tray, you only need to lift the grate and remove debris from the container.

Linear

The linear system has been known for a very long time. It has also been used in Ancient Egypt and Babylon. Today, only the materials used have changed, but the principle of operation has remained the same.

For drainage, plastic or reinforced concrete trays are used. They are equipped with a grate on top that covers the gutter. The system has garbage collectors that make it easier to take care of the trays.

Installation of such systems is necessary in cases where:

  • it is necessary to protect the foundation from rainwater;
  • there is a risk of soil erosion;
  • there is a need to remove moisture from sheds, garages and other structures located in the lowlands;
  • for protection of paths on garden and seasonal dachas.

Installing a water drain will not be a difficult procedure even for a beginner. Its structure is very clear.

Deep

Usually, both types of drainage are installed on the plots: both deep and surface. Such a drainage network will provide absolute protection from moisture.

Before arranging a buried system, it is necessary to determine in which direction the water flows during showers. This indicator is one of the most important.

If you make a mistake with the level of bias, then you can harm yourself with your own work.

You can find out the direction of the flow of water without exploring the area. To do this, it is enough to wait for the first downpour and see where the flows are directed.


The general drainage scheme: a receiving well, drains and a collector that removes excess moisture.

Calculation and design always depend on the characteristics of each particular site. You can not take and install the same system for everyone. Somewhere additional means of drainage are required, and somewhere the simplest device will do. As a last resort, you can turn to maps to determine the nature of your site.

Even with the data from the maps, you should not neglect the additional practical verification of the slope. If it is not possible to achieve the desired flow direction in some places, you can try to fix it with the help of embankments. However, such a procedure is also not carried out without preliminary calculations. A number of problems can be solved with a drainage pump. This is a forced drainage system, which is used in cases where it is impossible to create a natural one, or an additional water outlet is required.

Not all types of soils are well water-permeable. These include clay. Clay soil is characterized by an excess of moisture. Because of this, the right amount of oxygen does not enter the roots. As a result, the plants die. Dense turf also leads to oxygen starvation of plants.

When arranging a drainage system for a small area, it is not necessary to make a calculation during the design process. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the parameters regarding drains:

  • slope;
  • location according to the plan;
  • depth of occurrence;
  • distance between rows;
  • arrangement of the mouth part and manholes.

The natural relief of a site with a slope is best used when constructing a drainage system.

It is easier to work with a sloping site than with a flat one. This is due to at least a decrease in labor costs. All you need is to correctly combine open and closed drainage.

Clay soil is dense and heavy, so to improve the drainage properties, the soil should be carefully loosened. In the process of laying drains, it is necessary to bypass the places intended for the passage of a car.

In peatlands, the level of groundwater is usually high. Because of this, these types of soils are practically not used for growing plants. in peatlands root system plants simply rot.

Draining peatlands allows you to lower the groundwater level to 2–2.5 m. You do not need to do this if your site has already been drained. This can be easily determined. Drainage was carried out on the site if there are no stagnations of melt water on it, and the level of groundwater during the flood does not exceed 1.5 m.

This is found only in low-lying peatlands or land cultivated by someone. Most often, on peat bogs, one can observe a picture when water is close, and in spring it does not even soak into the ground in places. The only exception is the hot summer, when the groundwater level is greatly reduced, as a result of which the peat dries up and needs to be watered. The roots of perennials suffer greatly during the thaw period in winter or spring. In such a situation, over time, the death of plants is inevitable.

Not everything is so sad. Peatlands can be dried. What can be done for this? If the water is at a level of 0.8–1.2 m, then its excess can be completely removed from the site, for example, by planting birch or viburnum bushes in the northwestern side of the site or beyond. The fact is that birches actively collect moisture at a distance of 30 m from themselves. So, you will drain the site, while not shading it with these trees.

If the water is closer, then you will have to make a quality drainage system. To do this, break the site into sectors. At the same time, drainage ditches are laid in the slope of the place to collect water. Dig a sewer well or make an artificial reservoir in the lower corner of the site. All excess water from the peat area will drain into it. If you decide to make a water collector in the form of a well, then the accumulated water during the summer drought can be used for irrigation.

Plant moisture-loving fruit/ornamental crops around the pond.

Two ditches should run along the edges land plot, transverse - must be provided for high-quality drainage of the peat bog. For example, for 6 acres, it is enough to make 1-2 transverse ditches. At the same time, the depth of the ditch should reach about 40–50 cm. When digging a trench, dump upper layer soil on the edges of the beds, which will be equipped later.

For safety reasons, it is better to make a closed drainage system. The principle of its installation will be described below.

It is impossible for water to accumulate on even a small piece of land - melt or rain. If you find such accumulations, then make mounds of soil and sand in such places, as well as fertile soil. The sleeves of the drainage system must converge to the well / reservoir.

In peatlands, plants should be grown in raised beds. If in the summer the peat dries out due to the heat, then it will need to be watered regularly and abundantly.

In cases where the groundwater level cannot be lowered to the level of 2 m, fruit trees it will need to be planted on artificial hills having a height of 30–50 cm. At the same time, as the tree grows, the diameter of the mound will have to be increased.

Arrangement errors

The most common mistake in arranging a drainage system is that it is installed without proper design. When installing drainage pipes and systems, it is necessary, first of all, to understand the situation. In this case, it is necessary to analyze the site itself and the nature of groundwater.

For example, water very often affects the foundation. To protect it, you need to design a drainage system when building a house. In this case, an additional basement will be required, which will serve as a barrier to groundwater. If the design was done incorrectly, then the situation can only become more complicated. Groundwater will flow into the basement and affect the foundation. AT difficult cases will have to contact the experts.

Video

Scheme

These diagrams will help you plan the drainage of the site according to the requirements:

After the rain, the garden and the garden turn into lakes? The easiest way to get rid of dirt and puddles is to drain on suburban area. Moisture that accumulates in depressions and flows down slopes, eroding the soil, is not only an aesthetic problem. Over time, a constant excess of water will lead to the depletion of the fertile layer, damage to the root system of trees, erosion of the foundation of the house and constant flooding of the basement and outbuildings.

  • The site is located on a slope - in this case, it is necessary to divert all the water flowing from the neighbor's dachas.
  • The relief is uneven, with depressions and rises.
  • The soil is supersaturated with moisture, there is a constant high level of groundwater.
  • Dense solid ground predominates, poorly absorbing water after heavy precipitation, snow melting.

Types and methods of drainage in the country

Depending on the causes of waterlogging, choose the type of arrangement of the drainage area in the country. There are two ways to drain the soil:

  • Removal of surface waters.
  • Deep drainage - correction of the groundwater level.

Benefits of performing full drainage

The surface method is used when flooding occurs on the site only after heavy precipitation, during the thaw season and the melting of the snow cover. There are several options for arranging wastewater disposal. If it is not planned to build a house in the country, and the land is used only for seasonal work, you can do without complex drainage systems and large investments. It is not difficult to make the simplest channels for drainage, if you take into account the basic rules: choosing the direction and depth of trenches, laying trajectories.

Flooded area after a thaw

Deep drainage of groundwater is necessary to protect buildings - if water is not diverted from the outer perimeter of the foundation, then during the season of rising groundwater levels, basement and basement premises will inevitably be flooded. Soil washed out around the house will weaken the foundation structure. In addition, on a site with swampy rocks, difficulties will arise with the arrangement of landscape structures. To drain the deep layers, the technique of closed drainage is used with the withdrawal of runoff outside the suburban area.

A site with difficult terrain and the need for a combined drainage system

To provide complete protection for your home and personal plot, are developing combined projects with the simultaneous installation of a deep drainage network and surface sewers connecting at water collection points.

Surface option: features of the structure

To determine which of the surface drainage methods in the country will allow you to get rid of dirt on the site, you must:

  • Analyze the number of places where water accumulates after a heavy rain - it may be enough to make just a few drainage points.
  • Determine the direction of natural flows so as not to make a mistake with the ditching path.
  • Find a place to drain excess water. If there is no reservoir nearby, a gutter between plots, or a deep ditch, you will have to equip a drain receiver.

Surface channels in the area

Types of surface drainage systems

With your own hands, it is advisable to equip only surface country drainage of a point or linear type - these systems do not require the use of equipment, and you can plan the places for laying ditches yourself:

  • Point outlet. Local collection system excess moisture- this is the installation of receivers or the arrangement of diversion ditches directly in places where fluid accumulates: in recesses, under drain pipes, in the lowest places of the site, at points of height difference. Several rainwater collection points can solve the problem if the main area is not flooded after the rain.

  • Linear system. This method involves covering the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage with a system of connected trenches for draining liquid. The linear circuit is implemented with the arrangement of a closed or open system trenches. The advantage of this method is the uniform drainage of the soil throughout the territory.

Device linear system drainage in the garden

Open system for removing moisture from the ground

The simplest and cheap way to make drainage at their summer cottage - to equip an open system of linear surface drainage. Drainage ditches are dug at an angle to a relatively shallow depth - up to 50 - 70 cm. The width of the trenches varies: from the narrowest at the beginning of the branch, to expanding by several tens of centimeters in the direction from the beginning of the groove to the connecting line. The largest width is dug at the drain. The walls of the trenches are formed at an angle to the bottom - the angle of inclination should be up to 30 - 35 °.

To strengthen the walls use:

  • Remains of building materials: slate, brick, concrete slabs.

Reinforced with slate sheets from shedding walls

  • Textiles with perforation - agro- and geotextiles. Special material that does not rot. Plants grow through small holes, which by their root system are able to strengthen the soil on the walls and protect the groove from shedding.

Gutter protection soft material

  • Concrete gutters, metal mesh, stone laid on mortar.

A groove lined with river stone: this kind of gutter is easy to clean

How to make the most economical drainage in the country? Leave the channels completely open by filling them with crushed stone, gravel or a mixed gravel-sand mixture. Such a budget solution is perfect for areas where problems with soil erosion occur infrequently.

Surface drainage groove with backfill

There are many design options for open channels: ready-made trays made of plastic, metal, concrete with decorative grilles.

closed drainage network

It is much more difficult to make indoor drainage in a summer cottage without the involvement of specialists. A closed system is a network of perforated pipes laid with the obligatory observance of technology, a slope along the entire perimeter of the site.

System Diagram closed type

To perform the work, it is necessary to accurately plan the pipe installation sites - in case of an error, the entire branch will have to be redone. Therefore, craftsmen use laser rangefinders and special equipment to calculate, to the nearest millimeter, the required depth and slope of the pipeline.

Execution of work: selection of installation direction

Before installing the perforated pipes, the dug trenches are strengthened and a bulk bed of gravel is created. Textiles must be installed under the backfill. For different parts of the system choose pipes of different diameters.

Installation of perforated pipeline

In addition to the costs of pipes and earthworks, it is necessary to calculate the number of revision tanks. Perforated pipes will have to be washed, and in order to get to the junction, wells are installed along the highway with access to the surface.

Wells are an obligatory part of a closed system

The advantage of a closed discharge system is absolute invisibility. The pipes are dug into the ground, and after the work is completed, there are no open ditches left on the surface. Closed drainage is advisable to equip during the construction of the house. In a summer cottage, which is used only for seasonal growing of vegetables, it is enough to make a simple, economical open system.

The easiest way to drain the soil in the country: do-it-yourself surface drainage

How to make drainage in a wet area? Draw a simple circuit and dig open channels connected to the drain site. As a receiver of water diverted from the site, you can use:

  • Roadside ditch or moat.
  • An artificial or natural reservoir located below the cottage.

Conclusion of an open branch in a receiving pit

  • A well with a gravel bottom, dug at the lowest point of the site.
  • A plastic tank dug into the ground.

Preparation of materials and site marking

The materials and tools that are needed to make drainage in the country with your own hands are in every home:

  • Shovels, pickaxes - in case you have to dig through hard rocky soil.
  • Wheelbarrows and buckets for carrying and transporting the excavated clay.
  • Pegs and fishing line, or tape - to mark the site.

From building materials you will need: the remains of brick, slate; gravel of different fractions and sand. Choice decorative materials it depends only on the desire of the owner: you can buy gratings to protect the ditches from pollution or simply fill the trenches with stone in the form of paths.

Drainage channel in the form of a rocky path

How to determine the correct trajectory and location of ditches without special tools? Enough to watch natural direction streams after a heavy rain, or take a closer look at the footprints on the clay in the spring. Footprints left by running water perfect place for digging ditches. It is advisable to make a preliminary markup on the diagram.

Scheme for planning the laying of drainage channels

Ditching: earthwork rules

The most time-consuming stage is earthworks. With open surface drainage, the depth of the ditches should be about half a meter. Width - from 40 to 80 cm, up to 1 m - at the drain point. Before starting work, the selected trajectory is marked with pegs with a stretched fishing line.

Grooves are dug along the marking line

Dig trenches starting from the top of the site. The excavated earth is stored on one side of the ditch. It will greatly simplify cleaning after completion of work with an ordinary polyethylene construction film laid on the edge of the trench. The extracted earth can be used for leveling and backfilling beds and flower beds.

The side walls must be formed at an angle. On an inclined surface, the liquid flows down to the bottom faster, in addition, there is no erosion of the bottom due to the impact of falling streams. Ready grooves must be rammed: the bottom and walls must be even and solid.

Dig a line to the junction with the receiving tank.

Trench construction and drainage

There are 3 options for arranging ditches:

  • Soft - with laying a layer of soil over the backfill.

  • Gutter - a concrete gutter without a cover is laid in the prepared trench.

  • Filling - carry out backfilling to the surface level.

To extend the life of the drainage system, it is necessary to strengthen the walls and equip bulk pillows to facilitate the outflow of fluid. A perforated film or a special geotextile fabric is laid in the trench. Water passes freely through the holes, partially soaking into the soil.

Channels with stacked protective film

At the bottom, a layer of gravel or crushed stone of different fractions is necessarily covered: at the bottom - large, as it approaches the surface - fine fraction. Between the layers of backfill, it is advisable to install flow accelerators from improvised materials, which will perform the function of a pipe. Use circumcised plastic bottles without a bottom, large pieces of brick laid with gaps, bundles of branches and brushwood up to 30 - 50 cm long.

Simple materials which can be laid in grooves instead of perforated pipes

The finished trench can be left open, or closed with a decorative grille. Mesh metal covers will protect the channel from clogging with branches, leaves. If the film is installed with an overlap, then a layer of turf with lawn grass can hide the groove from prying eyes.

Mesh-reinforced main trench

Video: country drainage

Video tutorial on how to plan and make drainage in the country with your own hands, without investing in a complex system.

You can divert a moderate amount of water from the site yourself. But if construction is planned at the dacha country house, a simple open system is not enough to drain a wetland, it is better to contact specialists. A system with a combination of a deep and surface network is difficult to plan and arrange, and an error in calculations can lead to water remaining on the soil surface.

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A high level of groundwater is a fairly common occurrence in suburban areas, especially those located in the lowlands. This factor has almost no effect on garden plants, which cannot be said about buildings, trees and septic tanks located on the site. The solution to the problem is the drainage of the site. It is important to know how to make drainage on the site with your own hands correctly. This is what will be discussed in this article.

Why do you need drainage on the site

The very first thing to do after buying suburban area, is its thorough study, and special attention should be paid to the height of the groundwater. You can find this information different ways: Talk to local residents, ask previous owners of the site, or order an analysis from a company that specializes in such studies.

However, the main aspects can be determined independently. For example, if clay predominates in the soil, then drainage is an indispensable element of the site: clay is practically waterproof, and good rain can literally flood the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site or its individual parts. In cases where the site has a slope in one direction, drainage is also needed so that water does not accumulate in one place, thereby washing away the ground.

When it becomes clear that the installation of drainage should be mandatory, then you can proceed to the selection of a suitable system. This process will depend on many nuances.

There are two main methods for diverting water from the territory:

  • open drainage;
  • closed drainage.

open drainage

Further on, how to properly drain the site using an open method. Open drainage implies the presence of a network of trenches on the site, which are located along the perimeter of the flooded area. Through these trenches, water is diverted to drainage well where she won't hurt anyone or anything. An open drainage system does not require costs and is easy to implement: anyone can make it, even if he has no experience in performing construction work.
Usually ditches are made 50-60 cm deep and with the same width. Highly important condition is the presence of a constant slope towards the water intake, since the water moves along the trenches by gravity. The walls of the ditches should be cut at a 30-degree slope to make it easier for water to get into them.

As a result, water from all the grooves of the site enters the last one, which should be wider and deeper. This last section connects directly to a drainage well that drains water to a water intake. The last step in creating an open drainage is testing the system, for the implementation of which it is enough to pour a certain amount of water into the ditches. If the slope is observed, the water will evenly pass through all parts of the system, without stopping or stagnation. If this does not happen, then the dug trenches must be corrected until the problem is completely eliminated.

Decorating an open drainage system with your own hands

Of course, a patch streaked with ditches is completely incapable of pleasing the eye. Consider how to properly drain the site so that the system looks harmonious. All pits need to be masked, which will not only improve the aesthetic qualities of the structure, but also add strength to it, which automatically extends the life of the drainage.
Often, crushed stone acts as a material for decorating open drainage. Large stones are laid out at the bottom of the ditches, and from above it is all covered with stones fines. If desired and the availability of funds, the top layer can be covered marble chips or similar waterproof material.

How to make drainage on the site, if there is no desire to spend extra money on decorating the system, but the need for masking still remains? You can use a method called "fashin drainage". The essence of this method lies in the fact that fascines are made from dry branches, which are laid in ditches.

To create fascines, a large amount of brushwood is collected, from which it is necessary to make bundles about 25-30 cm thick, and thick branches should fit in the center of the bundle. Naturally, brushwood should not lie randomly in the fascine: the thick edges of the branches should be on one side, and the thin ones on the other.

When the fascines are ready, you can start laying them on the goats previously installed in the ditches. The goats are crossed stakes that are mounted in each ditch along the entire length of the drainage. When laying fascines on the goats, the thick ends should look up.

The first step is to dig trenches into which drains will be laid in the future.

The depth of the trenches is a variable value, which for the most part depends on the soils lying on the site:

  • on clay soils, the trench should have a depth of about 0.6-0.8 m;
  • if the main soil on the site is loam, then the depth of the trench will vary from 0.7 to 0.95 m;
  • the presence of sandy soil makes it necessary to dig a trench 1 meter deep.

It is also important to understand that they are not laid at the very bottom of the ditches, so their depth can be another 0.2-0.3 m more. In addition, for the quality work of the system, the pipes must lie deeper, so that the freezing soil does not affect the functionality of the drainage. In the event that the drainage system is made to protect the house from flooding, then the depth of the trenches should be at least 30 cm greater than the depth of the foundation. See also: "How to make drainage of the site with your own hands - types of drainage systems, device rules".

Observance of the slope is mandatory, but in the case of pipes it is a little easier to achieve. The extreme and lowest point of the system should be a drainage well or water intake, and the choice here will depend on the preferences of the owner of the site: sometimes it is preferable to put a container at the end of the drainage and collect water there, so that later it can be used for personal purposes.

Selection of pipes for drainage

Drainage pipes are usually laid in a herringbone pattern. Two auxiliary pipes are inserted into the main line, thereby creating a drainage network that works throughout the site.

Drainage systems used to use pipes made of ceramic or asbestos cement. To date, a much wider range of pipes is on the market, the most popular of which are plastic, which can be either solid or perforated. As a result, preference is best given to corrugated plastic pipes, which demonstrate a very long service life.

When choosing pipes and designing a drainage system, the composition of the soil must be taken into account. In the case of rocky soils, drainage is not required to filter material, and in all other cases, geotextiles will have to be used, in which drains are wrapped.

The need to use geotextiles is determined by the presence of various debris and sand in the soil, which leads to pollution and silting of the pipeline. If you do not want to wrap the pipes with filter material, you can independently purchase finished goods with geotextile.

How to properly drain

How to make drainage on the site with your own hands? First, ditches are dug, taking into account the selected dimensions. The slope along the entire length of the trench must be at least 7 cm per 1 m. To check the slope, use building level. The bottom of the trenches is laid with a layer of sand about 10 cm thick, and the same layer of crushed stone. Having rammed the resulting pillow, you can proceed with the laying and assembly of the pipeline. The installed pipes are wrapped with geotextiles and covered with a layer of crushed stone and sand about 20-30 cm thick. The remaining trench space can be filled with soil. The soil must be poured with a margin, as the earth will sag slightly. In more detail, all stages of the construction of drainage can be seen in the photo.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself drainage installation is not so difficult task, which is quite within the power of any person. Now that the question of "how to drain the site" is covered, the problem will be solved even easier. Knowing the procedure for performing the main actions will help to do such work without any problems and financial costs.