Hello dear craftswomen! Today I present to you how to make tree models with your own hands. I never thought that I would have to do this. The fact is that such trees were ordered to me by my father, who is engaged in the manufacture of models of Temples and churches. I promised to promise, but I don’t know how to do it! But the promise is given - it is necessary to carry out. Found the video and got to work. The video by which I made my trees can be viewed here - http://yandex.ru/video/search?filmId=1IwlFm7AUXI&text=%D0%BC%D0%B0%D0%BA... . I decided to show you how I made them, especially since very often either at school or in kindergarten they ask you to do some kind of craft on a particular topic, and then my MK and the author’s video will surely help you in this matter.
Here is such a tree and a few more I got. To be honest, I didn’t think that making trees would be so exciting. Dad asked for two trees, I got carried away and made 4.
For work, we need: fine wire, a dishwashing sponge or ordinary foam rubber, any lid or cardboard on which we will wind our wire, pliers, which are usually used in beading, and green paint of different shades.
We wind the wire on the lid. For one tree, approximately 8-10 m high, one coil is enough. But if you want a thicker trunk and a branched tree, then you can take more wire. Having wound the wire in this way, we cut it from one end.
We straighten.
At the bottom we leave a centimeter and a half - two for the roots. They will continue to serve as the stand of our tree.
The roots were straightened at the bottom, twisting several wires into one. Next, we begin to form our crown, starting from the lower branches. To do this, we separate the clouds of 6-7 wires and twist them in a spiral to about half. Next, divide our wires in half and twist further separately.
Then on each branch we leave one alone, and then we twist two at a time. It's as shown in the photo.
By the same principle, we make 3-4 more lower branches.
So that the branches of the second tier do not come into contact with the branches of the lower tier, we scroll the trunk a little more up.
We make the second tier of branches, again scroll the trunk and form the top in the same way as the rest of the branches did. Here's what we should get.
And this is the skeleton of the future birch.
Here is our tree completely covered with PVA glue (as if covered with snow. We leave our tree to dry completely, for about 2-3 hours. As soon as our tree is completely dry, we start painting it. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a picture of the painting process, but you can see it There is nothing difficult here.We paint the trunk and twigs either with brown acrylic, or, if it is birch, with light gray with black dots.
Next, we paint our future crown. For this purpose, I took a sponge for washing dishes and plain white foam rubber. I poured some water into the bowl and added some acrylic paint in different shades. I shook it in the water so that the sponge was painted evenly.
I wet the sponge again and, without squeezing it out, began to apply paint to the sponge with a brush: first with one shade, then with another, then with a third. It is enough to apply a little paint on one side.
And then just shake it in your hand, putting on a glove or polyethylene on your hand. The sponge, as you can see, was painted unevenly, which is what we need. Since the sponge was yellow, it gave us an extra shade of yellow. Here's what we got.
We wring out our sponge from excess water and put it on the battery until it dries completely.
And this shade was obtained by coloring ordinary white foam rubber. As you can see this one is more green. The first, lighter sponge went to the birch foliage.
dipped in crumbs. And so every branch. Then she let it dry, shook off what didn’t stick. Then she applied glue to the branches again, but not with a brush, but simply dripped drop by drop from the vial and poured a little crumbly and again until completely dry. And so several times. This is of course more troublesome, so it's better to do as the author advises.
Production of trees and bushes for dioramas, vignettes and just stands for work. This is just one line of text, but how many questions are hidden inside. Especially if at the same time the professional experience of the old layout designer is completely absent. But good and often realistic work in terms of making equipment and figures requires realistic vegetation. Especially if you want to do something on a small scale.
So it happened in my case when making one small, but rather laborious work, using a reduced copy of a natural landscape as a base.
The idea to do something relatively large in terms of plot, but small in real size and necessarily with a textured view of nature, was thought over for a long time. Probably, the indestructible craving of the city dweller for the living corners of nature, which, unfortunately, we mostly see only on the TV screen or computer monitor, has affected.
In the end, I settled on a scale of 1:72. Impressed by the films Thunderstorm Gates and Spetsnaz, I decided to do a work on the topic of special operations of federal forces in the North Caucasus in the so-called green field. And it was then that the questions arose, but how to actually make the vegetation realistic, that very “greenery”, on a 72nd scale? And the two main ones: which trees need to be made and, most importantly, HOW?
The first question was solved quite simply. Internet search turned up a lot useful information on the flora of the Caucasus in general and the North Caucasus in particular (including the Chechen Republic). I will briefly note that the information itself was very interesting in terms of general development. What kind of species diversity of flora and landscapes formed by it exists in one relatively small region! But back to the topic of the article.
So, the idea is chosen, information about the flora is found and here .... The main question comes to the fore. And how to actually make trees in the 72nd scale? I immediately abandoned the idea of using ready-made vegetation from recognized modeling companies, as I wanted to do everything with my own hands. He again turned to modeling literature and the Internet. Having studied the material found (including thanks for the help to Andrey Yanchik for providing scans of Valery Serdyuk's articles) and the materials at hand, he began his own experiments with the manufacture of deciduous trees. The ideas of recognized modelers using wire are certainly good, but I didn’t really like my results with this material. Therefore, I decided to use the available blanks of natural origin with the addition of real building materials, some model special equipment and other improvised materials. In principle, all the materials used are available to every modeller, wherever he lives. Even branded special equipment can be replaced with publicly available counterparts.
To make a birch layout in 72nd scale, you will need the following:
1) tools: a manual collet mini-drill (photo 1), a clerical or model knife (photo 2), a plasticine spatula and a simple flat brush with hard bristles.
2) materials: tile grout (photo 3), masking tape (photo 4), quick drying glue (photo 5), dry moss (photo 6), a piece of a natural birch branch of a suitable shape (photo 7), powder imitating foliage ( photo 8), model acrylic paints - black and white (photo 9), green-marsh color paint (photo 10), matte strong hold art varnish to protect the surface of the paintings (photo 11).
Instead of branded model powder, you can use available similar materials. For example, finely chopped colored paper or colored ground tea leaves. But I liked Noch branded powder to imitate foliage more. Instead of matte art varnish, you can use PVA-type glue, but which does not form a shiny film.
So, the tools and materials are selected. Let's start making a tree layout. The process itself can be roughly divided into three parts.
Part 1. Let's start with the manufacture of the trunk.
At the selected piece of a sprig of real birch, we sharpen the upper tips (photo 12). Then, with a pre-prepared narrow strip of paper masking tape carefully wrap the barrel blank in several layers, starting from the bottom (photo 13). Masking tape will serve as the basis for applying the grout. Do not forget to make the base of the tree layout thicker, with a butt. But be sure to leave a thin petiole about 1 cm long, which will be recessed into the base of your work in order to firmly fix the tree model itself on it (photo 14).
Now we are preparing a grout to simulate the bark of a future birch. In addition, the grout allows you to hide tape marks from masking tape. It is desirable that the grout be finely ground and without lumps. We dilute the grout in a small container (in my case, a jar of film) with white paint (photo 15). Stir to a creamy consistency and coat with a spatula or a brush with stiff bristles a blank of a birch trunk (photo 16). There should be no lumps in the mixed grout. Otherwise, their presence will affect the lumpy defects on the trunk of the birch model. We give the workpiece to dry in a state suspended by the butt. After the grout dries, we get a white birch trunk (photo 17).
The next step is to apply black stripes and dots to the workpiece with a thin brush, like on a real birch. The future base of the trunk at the butt should be carefully painted in places with diluted green-marsh paint. Because in reality, birch trees at the roots are overgrown with small moss. The stem blank is ready (photo 18).
Part 2. Now we turn to the manufacture of branches for our trunk.
For the manufacture of branches, we use small bushy branches of moss as a base (photo 19). We paint the moss branches with black paint (photo 20). After the paint has dried, we coat the fluffy part of the moss twig with the above varnish or PVA glue and sprinkle with pinches of the prepared foliage imitation (photo 21 and photo 22). The output is a blank of a birch branch (photo 23). We repeat the described procedure as many times as you need branches (photo 24).
Part 3. We collect the blank of the trunk and blanks of branches into a single structure.
We assemble from the bottom up. First, we drill shallow holes in the trunk blank for future branches. But not strictly perpendicular to the trunk, but slightly from top to bottom in relation to the butt. The exception is the holes for fixing the uppermost branches at the end of the trunk. They are drilled strictly deep into the tip of the stem blank. After that, we begin to glue the blanks of branches on a drop of quick-drying glue into the prepared holes (photo 25). We glue the branch, let the glue dry (1-2 minutes), holding the branch in the right direction. And so we repeat until the last branches form the final upper branches of the birch layout.
As a result, we get a layout of a birch in the 72nd scale (photo 26). A figurine of a submachine gunner in 72nd scale was added to demonstrate the ratio of the size of the birch model and the figurine in 72nd scale.
In principle, the considered method is suitable, with a slight change in technology, both for making models of other deciduous trees in the 72nd scale, and for making models of birch or other deciduous trees in the 35th scale.
To make a model deciduous tree(indefinite form) on the 72nd scale, the following will be required:
1) tools: a manual model saw (photo 27), but you can also use a stationery or model knife (photo 2).
2) materials: a means for fixing imitation sheets, in my case, strong fixation hairspray was used (photo 28), but it is better to use Noch's proprietary model composition for fixing vegetation on layouts or similar model special tools, or as an option, stationery glue such as PVA in aerosol can (since hairspray is sensitive to moisture); purified PVA stationery glue (photo 29); dried formed ball of moss (photo 30); piece of branch natural wood suitable shape and suitable type(photo 31); powder imitating foliage, similar in size to that shown in photo 8; gouache paint Brown color.
So, we directly proceed to the manufacture of wood.
We saw off or cut off from a pre-prepared suitable branch of a real tree the part necessary for the texture right size and forms. It is better to select a part with small tubercles or remnants of branch branches, or make a stem blank from a branch with a branch at the upper end of the future trunk.
Then we proceed to the manufacture of the crown of our tree layout. Soak the formed lump of moss of the desired size in a container with diluted brown gouache. Let the gouache soak into the moss. We take out a lump, wring it out of moisture, forming it more densely, but without busting. Let's dry. After that, first pour PVA glue into the center of the lump and carefully insert the stem blank into the moss lump (photo 32) or wrap the moss around the trunk (if the trunk is in the form of a flyer). Carefully wrap everything in a paper tube, secure the tube from deployment, and let the PVA dry. As a result, we get the following (photo 33).
There is a rough draft of a tree layout with a crown. Now you need to fix the imitation of leaves in the resulting crown. To do this, from an aerosol can, fill only the crown with the above-mentioned either varnish, or special glue model, or aerosol stationery glue. We fill it so that the moss is completely saturated and even more so - the fixing composition should protrude on the moss in excess. And we begin to sprinkle everything with imitation foliage, with the expectation that the powder gets into all the cracks in the future crown. Sprinkle better over carton box or other wide flat container with small sides. Powder should not be saved, all the same, everything superfluous will then fly off by itself and serve for reuse.
We hang the tree sprinkled with imitation of leaves on a clothespin with the crown down and let it dry. After drying, we get our mock-up of a deciduous tree with a spherical crown (photo 34). The trees in photo 35, photo 36 and photo 37 were made in a similar way. A figurine of a submachine gunner in 72nd scale is also added to the photo to visually show the size of the tree model.
For a more reliable image of the tree, already on the basis of the model, we first make a hole 0.5-1 cm deep to fix the tree. Glue the layout of the tree. Then, from very thin natural twigs, we make several segments about 0.5 cm long. We make cuts of the ends under acute angle. We glue one end close without a gap on quick-drying glue to the tree fixed on the base of the mock-up tree at the junction of the trunk and base. We cover the second end of the segment with a bark flake carefully removed from a similar thin branch. Then, if desired, we add an imitation of herbal vegetation around the trunk and near the protruding roots. The output is a very reliable model of a tree with roots protruding from the ground (photo 38 and photo 39).
A complete set of all four trees on the finished work can be seen in my work "", also exhibited at DiShow2009.
Nature is magnificent in its diversity. The methods described above are suitable for the production of only a part of the species diversity of trees. Therefore, for the manufacture of a deciduous tree with an umbrella crown, the following method is proposed, which will require the following:
1) tools: a simple flat brush with hard bristles and a flat brush with soft bristles.
2) materials: a means for fixing imitation sheets, in my case, artistic varnish was used (photo 11), but you can also use clean PVA glue (photo 29), acrylic paint green tint, matching the color of the foliage imitation; dry inflorescence of ornamental garden flower umbrella-shaped (photo 40); powder imitating foliage, similar to that shown in photo 8, but in a suitable shade of color.
And again we start making wood.
First, with a brush with soft bristles, paint in the desired shade of the green inflorescence box in the upper part of the dried flower (photo 41). In my case, Tamiya acrylic green paint was used. Let's dry.
Now, with a brush with stiff bristles, we apply an adhesive fixing composition to the painted inflorescence boxes, so that there is an excess of it (photo 42) and sprinkle the smeared places with imitation foliage. Let it dry again, securing everything in the same clothespin. The output is a good imitation of a tree with an umbrella crown (photo 43 and photo 43). Again, a 1/72 submachine figurine is added to show the actual size of the tree layout.
Sometimes you need to make a lot of trees, but not necessarily as detailed as in the methods described above. Or you will be limited in the choice and availability of the above natural materials. For example, moss. Therefore, I will briefly describe four more ways to make trees and one way to make bushes.
First way fast manufacturing tree layout.
According to the already classical pattern, which has been described more than once both in the literature and by fellow modellers, we make a model of a tree with a crown from small pieces of foam rubber, painted in the desired color of foliage. But I personally did not really like the foam rubber foliage. Therefore, I used the foam crown only as a basis for fixing Noch foliage imitations on PVA glue (photo 29). The result is a tree like this (photo 45).
The second way to quickly make a tree layout.
This method allows you to make a fairly similar poplar layout, which will be especially important for dioramas and vignettes with a southern flavor.
To do this, we will prepare and dry a sprig of arborvitae, cypress or other similar coniferous real tree or shrub in advance. We leave with natural brown that part of the branch that will be the open part of the trunk of our poplar layout. We fill the other part of the branch, which should become a crown, from an aerosol can with a fixing compound according to the technology already described above. We sprinkle the flooded places with imitation foliage. In my case, the same material from Noch. The result is such a poplar layout (photo 46).
The third way to quickly make a tree layout.
This method allows you to make a simple tree layout with a spherical crown. Not the best in appearance, but for novice modellers, for large urban dioramas or in the absence of suitable materials as an ersatz replacement for a realistic tree layout this way can also be applied.
For the trunk, we select a piece of a natural tree twig (preferably at least with a flyer in the place where the crown is formed). In the upper part of the future trunk, we form a fluffy, but not transparent, spherical crown from a lump of medical cotton. We pre-fix the cotton wool with quick-drying glue to the upper part of the future trunk. Gently coat the cotton ball with PVA glue with a flat brush with stiff bristles. The cotton ball will eventually decrease in volume. But it will be covered with a thin film of PVA glue. We dry the workpiece on a clothespin with the future crown down. After the PVA has dried, paint the surface with model paint with good adhesion in the desired shade of color, taking into account the color of the future imitation of foliage. Let the paint dry. The resulting ball-crown is smeared with a thin layer of clerical cleaned PVA, previously mixed with paint of the same color as the crown was painted. Then we sprinkle the crown of our layout with an imitation of foliage. In my case, it was all the same Noch material. The result is a model of a tree with a spherical crown (photo 47).
The fourth way to quickly make a tree layout.
Also not the most successful in appearance, but again by beginner modellers, for large urban dioramas or in the absence of suitable materials as an ersatz replacement for a tree model, this method can also be used to make a tree model with a horizontal crown or tall bush.
Need a twig coniferous tree with small needles, a little cotton wool, PVA glue and powder to simulate foliage. To begin with, we cut off the sharp tips of the needles on the branch and clear the place of the future open part of the trunk of our layout from the needles. We carefully wrap a branch with a small amount of cotton wool in the place where the future crown is formed and fix the cotton wool on the PVA. Let the PVA dry. After the PVA has dried, paint the crown of cotton wool through an airbrush.
After the paint has dried, we literally fill the crown of the tree model from an aerosol can with a fixing compound to fix the foliage imitation and immediately sprinkle it with foliage imitation. Let dry again. The result is such a layout of a tree or a tall shrub (photo 48).
We make a bush.
To make a bush, you can use either dried northern moss lichen (sold in model stores) or dried roots of small plants. In my example, it was the reindeer moss that was used. If necessary, we paint the blank of the future bush in the desired shade of brown or wood color. For example, an airbrush. Let the paint dry.
Then we fill the bush blank from an aerosol can with a fixing compound to fix the foliage imitation and immediately sprinkle it with foliage imitation. Let dry again. As a result, this is the layout of the bush (photo 49).
As a small bonus to the main article on the manufacture of trees and bushes on the 72nd scale, I will additionally describe my technologies for making waterfalls and rocks on the 72nd scale, which were tested and implemented by me all in the same work ""
Rocks on a small scale with their own hands.
At the present time, thanks to railroad modellers, the technology of casting rocks from gypsum into a finished form is actively used. There is no doubt that the technology is convenient, but has its own specific disadvantages. Firstly, all rocks from one form come out as twin brothers. Second, the rocks big size have a fair weight due to the significant amount of gypsum used.
In principle, my version of the manufacture of rocks in the end turned out to be quite simple to manufacture, although it took time and several attempts to work with different materials to develop it.
When I had a question about choosing a material for making a rock base, the first thing I thought about was the material for making the base part of the rock. As a result, the choice settled on foam ceiling panels. They are made of finely swollen foam and allow you to make a base of any height like sandwich panels. However, the foam plastic is not at all textured material for the image of the finished rock. Therefore, for refinement, you will need the same universal grout for tiles (you can use finely ground cement) and construction putty type "Rotband".
Thus, for the manufacture of rocks in terms of the necessary materials, you will need only five components:
First, a cube-shaped blank is glued from the foam with PVA glue, following the model of sandwich panels, to make the base of the rock. Let the glue dry. If desired, you can use a ready-made cube of monolithic foam with similar characteristics (smallly swollen and does not crumble with balls). For greater rigidity, glue the plywood cut along the contour of the rock base onto the lower edge of the rock blank.
After that, a rock with a basic rough relief is cut out of the resulting workpiece. In my case, a bed of a stream and a waterfall was additionally cut out in the workpiece.
So, the basic preparation of the rock is ready. But it requires bringing to the realistic texture of the rock. Therefore, the workpiece must be coated with a layer of 1-2 mm (but without peeking out the foam) with grout or cement. It is necessary to dilute the grout or cement with a mixture of water and gray or dark gray model or art paint. Let the grout dry on the foam. We get a foam base in a solid stone shell.
But even now the foundation does not look too realistically like a rock. Therefore, we apply putty in one or several layers. Allow layers to dry between applications. If necessary, we build up individual sections by reinforcing the base with toothpicks or bamboo sticks for barbecue. In general, such an operation resembles the construction of houses from monolithic concrete.
We dilute the putty before use in the same way as the method of diluting the grout. On the semi-moist putty of the last layer with a spatula, we form large folds and cracks. After the last layer of putty has dried, we carefully form thin cracks, small chips and other rocks on the workpiece with a sharp tool (for example, a clerical or model knife). characteristics appearance real rocks. We get an empty rock in the right scale (photo 50). But a rock without vegetation looks unnatural.
Therefore, we add vegetation (trees and bushes), imitate small grassy vegetation with small pieces of moss, special powders or finely ground colored foam rubber glued to a thin layer of PVA (photo 51 and photo 52). Selective places of the rock are tinted with a brush with grated pastel crayons of the desired shade. When finalizing the base, it is better to use photographs of real rocks with vegetation as a visual reference.
Note: if you make rocks with water (river, stream, waterfall), then you first need to make water, and then only add vegetation.
Waterfall.
I turn to the description of my technology for the manufacture of water objects in the 72nd scale. In my case, this is a stream with a waterfall. The base of the rock with the bed of the stream and the waterfall had already been made in the manufacture of the rock, only water had to be made. Of course, you can use ready-made model mixtures of water simulators or transparent epoxy. But the question is how to apply them in an even layer on vertical surfaces. The law of gravity has not yet been canceled.
For me, the experience of repairing an apartment turned out to be very useful, when all the subtleties of working with building plumbing transparent silicone were studied in practice and more than once. Therefore, I turned to the use of material known to me for a long time. First, I prepared the bed of the stream with the waterfall, painting the bed with a brush of bright Tamiya blue acrylic paint. Then he glued stones with cyacrine on the bed of the stream and the ledges of the waterfall to imitate boulders and teeth.
After that, carefully using a construction gun, he squeezed out transparent sanitary silicone from the tube. Especially carefully where he formed the jets of the waterfall. Made rollers strictly vertical rows. In two layers. The second layer is between the rollers of the first layer.
The upper part of the stream and the stream of the waterfall was leveled with an artistic spatula, periodically rubbed with slightly damp soap. In this way, we avoid sticking silicone to the spatula. Again, the silicone is leveled with exceptionally light movements from top to bottom. The creek below was first leveled and rammed a little with a finger wrapped in a plastic disposable bag, also rubbed a little with damp soap. Then, with a spatula without soap, he formed waves in the backwaters and, quite accurately, breakers in general on the waterfall.
After the silicone had hardened, I painted the entire surface of the “water” with a brush with an artistic transparent semi-gloss varnish (varnish for covering paintings to protect the paint). Lacquer is needed for the appearance of adhesion of white acrylic paint. For without such a primer, acrylic does not fall on silicone. I added some Star blue acrylic to the varnish. As a result, I got a gleaming surface of “water” with an additional transparent pale blue tint in addition to the backlight effect from the bottom painted with bright blue paint. After the varnish has dried to form the foam with a brush in right places with dotted touches or light stains, he applied white art acrylic in a gel-like consistency. A light film of foam was imitated by light glazing with a brush using white acrylic paint "Stars". After that, he added vegetation to the banks of the stream: imitation of moss from finely crumbled colored foam glued to PVA, along the banks of the stream with a waterfall and on the teeth. At the exit, I got such a waterfall (photo 53, photo 54).
In conclusion, I would like to express my gratitude to my friends-modelers who helped with their comments on the need to refine various elements of the waterfall.
The scenery is an important detail of the model of the railway. You can buy them at the store or make your own. The big advantage of independent crafts is realism, as well as saving money. In addition to the trees themselves, a full-fledged landscape requires a certain amount of shrubs and grass. For their manufacture, you need to prepare the necessary material in advance. Of course, all this can be purchased at a specialized store, but if the layout of the railway is large-scale, and the number of trees exceeds 100 pieces, their purchase can cost a pretty penny. Moreover, most of the goods presented in the store are distinguished by artificiality, which attracts attention at first sight. Considering all of the above, you can purchase several trees in order to later compare them with the products. own production and feel the difference on a specific example, for our part, we will try to make your work as easy as possible, offering detailed instructions. The point is small, start!
Railway will go through a dense forest, so in total we need 200 - 300 trees. The layout suggests the presence of mountains, so most specimens will be conifers.
By reading the below step by step description, you can easily make an artificial spruce and find that it is very, very easy to make. However, given the fact that we have to create a whole forest, we need to prepare in advance for the fact that the procedure will take a lot of time.
First we need to decide on the dimensions, using real trees as samples. Given that the scale is 1:87, the length of the tall tree will be 30 cm, and the lowest 8 cm. In addition, it will be useful to make a few stumps to give our forest realistic features.
Required tools:
First of all, rods of the required length are made for tree trunks. With a steel knife, they are very easy to do, because Cork tree represents a very soft material. Then with the help sandpaper the rods are given a conical shape, and the remaining dust can be useful later, so it must be saved.
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At the second stage, using Carpenter pliers, we cut the wire nails into segments the right sizes, after which, by soft pressing, they are inserted into wooden blank, and glue is poured into the resulting gap.
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We cut the knitting wire into several lengths from 4 to 10 cm. They will serve as the basis for branches, as well as small trees and shrubs.
We adjust the branches so that they have the same length on all sides. We start from the lower branches, for which we take the longest 10 cm segments. A little higher we make another row of smaller segments, etc. We also crown the crown with a piece of wire.
At the fifth stage, the branches are fixed with glue. Here you can use special samples or apply super glue.
At this stage, we are faced with the task of producing a mixture of clay, water, paint, pigment and sawdust. Here you can also use a brown or black latex mixture mixed with sand and sawdust (remaining with us after the production of wooden trunks in the first stage). The resulting solution is thoroughly shaken with a wooden stick until thick. The most important thing is that the mixture is not liquid.
Using a brush, apply the resulting mixture to the trunk and branches and let it dry, if necessary, make several layers.
Using scissors, we make small strips of fibrous material, and then with wood glue we put them on the branches and let them dry thoroughly.
After the blank dries, we use an aerosol to apply dark green or brown paint to the wood.
At this stage, a layer of glue is applied to the fibers, while it is desirable to avoid getting it on the tree trunk. Considering that some of the material is more liquid, it should be carefully dispersed over the entire area of the branch. After that, the tree is given a few minutes to dry, and then using a cotton swab, alcohol or gasoline, it is necessary to remove glue and fibers from the trunk, since needles do not grow on it.
Now the tree can be used as decoration. Considering that the living forest is rich in forms and content, it is advisable to paint the trees in different shades to avoid monotony.
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It will be useful to create small details, for example, broken branches, deadwood, so that the work looks natural.
Alternative design.
This technique assumes that the branches are located exclusively on the top of the tree, by analogy with pine forests. To do this, several pieces of wire are attached to the barrel, which takes a little time. The branches are fixed with fast-acting glue.
Bark paste is made from latex paint with the addition of brown and black pigment, as well as sand and sawdust left after the production of the cone. This allows the tree to look natural, reminiscent of wild specimens.
The next step, as in the first case, is the attachment of the fibrous material and its coloring in green color. In this case, the pine should be larger than the spruce, so that the length of the trunks will reach 25 cm.
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For children's games it is interesting to do great three-dimensional tree from cardboard with their own hands. It can be a product made of corrugated material, compressed paper, fabric, balloons. We will also dream up on this topic, we will teach you to cut according to the template and collect trees that can be placed in the middle of the room. We also recommend how big tree or game room at home or in kindergarten.
Children can a big tree decorate with leaves and flowers, plant birds on branches and install birdhouses. We will show you how to decorate. There are also decorative patterns. They can decorate the entrance or interior doors. For such a do-it-yourself volumetric tree made of cardboard, you will need many additional elements.
To create such a branching tree, you will need a piece of corrugated cardboard, a simple pencil and large scissors or a sharp knife. Divide the sheet into two equal parts. On one side, draw a trunk, a wide stand from below and several branches. All this is cut along the contour with scissors. Then the cut out template must be attached to the second half and circled with a pencil. The barrel and stand must match exactly. Branches may be different.
In order for a voluminous tree to stand steadily from, you need to draw a line in the middle on one part. The trunk is cut along it from top to center. On the other part, on the contrary, along the drawn line, the incision is made from the bottom to the center. In order for the two parts to connect freely, the cut lines should be equal to the thickness of the cardboard, approximately 0.5 cm.
It remains only to assemble the parts together by putting one part on top of the other. From below, all the supports should be at the same level so that the product stands firmly and does not stagger. When the main part of the work is prepared, you can start decorating the branches. The guys will take care of it.
To decorate a voluminous cardboard tree with your own hands, you need to cut out a lot of leaves and glue them to the branches. If the tree will be used in a kindergarten or other institutions, and for different cases, then it is better if decorative elements will be removable. Pay attention to the photo below. All leaves hang on threads, and the green lush crown is generally represented by wide satin ribbons that hang in coils from the ceiling tiles. You can also string all the leaves on a long rope and hang them on branches like a garland.
Large items, such as a birdhouse or an owl perched on a branch, can be attached with staples or paper clips. Then the elements are easy to remove and put in a box for the next holidays.
For such a voluminous do-it-yourself cardboard tree, the template that you see in the photo below is very easy to build. The tree is made in the same way as the previous tree. But the pattern shows the lines of the central cuts for assembling the structure. it general principle production of volumetric crafts. After all, in this way you can make a whole forest of spruce and deciduous trees, for example, for board games or to show puppet theater. Children love this kind of entertainment. Small items can be made from thick cardboard. The crown can be represented by a simple circle.
If you made such a voluminous Christmas tree to decorate the group kindergarten, then you need to glue it with green colored paper, each child can make a Christmas tree toy and hang it on a paper clip on branches. This is a great replacement for store-bought balls and a lively beauty. Needles will not fall on the floor, and children from childhood will learn to take care of wildlife and don't damage the trees.
In order for the Christmas tree to stand firmly on the floor surface, do not forget to add a stand from below in the template, expanding the trunk at an angle.
In a kindergarten or in an art studio where they are engaged in creativity with children, you can decorate entrance doors such interesting craft. It's voluminous Blooming tree from cardboard, on which nests for birds are made from plastic or paper disposable plates. Such a composition looks very interesting, and it is easy to make it. To make the tree stand out against the background of a white door, the background is first glued blue color. This is heaven. Further, the trunk and branches are made of brown compressed paper. The plates are cut in half, it can be even, more beautiful with notches, as in the photo. These are nests in which little chicks are waiting for their parents. The picture is very symbolic for the premises of a kindergarten. After all, there, too, the kids are looking forward to their parents. The chicks are made from black plastic spoons.
Eyes and beak can be made with applique. Children also make flowers with leaves and place them all over the tree. Grass is glued to the bottom of the door. To make the lawn with flowers also voluminous, the edges are cut and twisted a little with a pencil.
Now among the hand-made masters, many are fond of quilling. This is the twisting of strips of paper. This method was also used to create such an unusual three-dimensional tree. The crafts master class is described below.
Such a tree for decorations, made of cardboard with your own hands, can be placed in the form of a picture on the wall. First, they make a background and stick a simple, even tree trunk. Grass grows under the tree. It is cut into strips, decorating with large flowers. The free space of the blue sky can be filled with flying birds or butterflies.
The volume of the tree itself is added by a crown made of balls different color. If this autumn tree from paper and cardboard, then add to the green balls a small amount of yellow or orange.
You can also decorate the room with a symbolic image of a tree made of branches attached to the wall. They can be laid out with a ladder in increasing order, similar to a Christmas tree, or in a different way, making the shape of a deciduous tree. Leaves cut out of colored paper are attached to each branch with buttons. We have yellow leaves in the photo, it is clear that an autumn tree is depicted, which means that mushrooms can be placed under it.
The article presents just a few options for making a three-dimensional tree for decorating rooms. After looking at the template, you can make a similar version by adding your own creative ideas. Create with your kids!
