If you calculate what components make up the final cost of lumber - the price of wood + processing + transportation to the destination - it becomes clear what you can save on. Wood blanks (board, timber, slats) are one of the most used samples in the field of construction and repair.
Given the simplicity of working with a tree, it makes sense to deal with its "dissolution" directly on the site. It is enough just to make a sawmill. This article will acquaint you with typical drawings, the procedure for making its tape modification with your own hands, and some design features.
The expediency of such a decision will become even more obvious if you look at the prices for factory sawmills on the websites. They are available for sale, but the cost of the installations is such that most of us are unlikely to want to purchase any model for household use. Depending on the series (in rubles): "Kedr" - from 138,000 to 194,000, "Taiga" - from 116,890 to 172,400. And these are still relatively inexpensive samples. Only mini-machines are cheaper (about 94,000), but they are unlikely to satisfy all the needs of the owner of a private house in woodworking.
There are several modifications of this type of equipment. But if we are talking about assembling a sawmill with your own hands, then the choice is small - an option with a fixed position of the saw and a movable bed (trolley) on which the workpiece is located. It is she who moves in the process of woodworking along special guides (rails). Everything else is improvements, "services" that facilitate the work of staff and ensure product quality. For example, a mobile saw.
Here are some easy-to-make models of homemade band sawmills.
The dimensions of the sawmill are determined depending on its location. Plots (adjoining, country or other) differ in layout, so the owner will have to choose the optimal size of the installation on his own. All drawings that are available (special literature, the Internet) can only serve as "guidelines" - according to the ratio separate parts, their linear parameters, and so on. With your own hands, the sawmill is made in a way that is more convenient to work in a particular place and with a certain type of raw material. Basically, such equipment is used for dissolving logs and trimming boards.
The design of this type of installation is good in that it can be constantly refined and improved, more precisely “customizing” its characteristics and capabilities to the growing needs of the owner. For example, if it was originally planned for the dissolution of logs into boards, then it is quite possible that after a while the question of organizing our own production of timber will arise.
It is assembled according to a block-modular scheme, and in the absence of practical experience in the manufacture of complex mechanisms, it is advisable to start with the simplest options. Subsequently, it will be easy to equip a manual band sawmill with automation elements (cutting thickness control, saw feed, programmer, etc.). That is why further - general instructions for drawing up band sawmill drawings and assembling. The author strongly recommends that you follow the sequence and install the first installation in your life according to a simplified scheme.
There are many modifications of band sawmills. The first question is in what plane is it supposed to cut? This determines the location of the working tool. Second - will the products of the same type be manufactured or will it be necessary to use the sawmill as a universal device? For example, not only for dissolving timber into boards, but also for cutting logs into separate segments. All this is taken into account in advance. It is desirable that the frame on which the working saw is attached can be reinstalled.
Logs that bloom on a band sawmill are characterized by significant weight. In the process of work, its frame is also subjected to dynamic loads. The main attention is the stability of the band saw equipment. This is both the quality of the cut and the safety of the attendants.
Craft band sawmill- that's half the battle. Its competent operation requires certain skills in setting up. The main "pitfall" is the wiring and sharpening of the saw. This issue should be studied in detail!
If there suitable premises, then it should be taken into account that effective area should not be less than 18 "squares". This is enough to dissolve even large logs on a band sawmill.
In the private sector, rarely anyone can allocate an empty building or at least a compartment for installation. As a rule, woodworking has to be done on the street. It is unlikely that the neighbors in adjacent areas will applaud the sawdust and small chips flying in the wind. Yes, and your own territory will quickly become littered. Conclusion - after assembling the band sawmill, you will immediately have to deal with the construction of a solid type fence. For example, from polycarbonate sheets or plywood.
In addition, you will have to decide in advance where the storage of finished lumber will be organized. Therefore, next to the sawmill there should be at least a small, but free piece of land.
This is what should be taken into account when choosing a workplace for equipment.
Briefly here, without welding machine not enough. With regard to the sawmill, bolted connections should not be practiced. Over time, one way or another, but they will loosen up, and doing daily monitoring of the condition and tightening is not the best prospect.
Below are drawings of a simple band sawmill, which you can easily adapt to your conditions and needs, observing the proportions and principles of operation:
The algorithm of actions is quite simple. Difficulty - in the manufacture (with adjustment in size) of the components.
A trolley with lumber will move along it. Plus, a frame is attached to the rails, on which the working tool is located. The main requirements are the reliability of such a support and alignment in a horizontal plane. On what to fix it - a specially equipped foundation (for example, columnar) or on racks dug into the ground - is decided on the spot.
Its purpose has already been mentioned. In order for the log to be in a fixed position during sawing, the mobile frame should be equipped with a “clamp”, which will firmly press the workpiece to the frame and prevent it from moving. Accordingly, the trolley must have wheels to ensure its mobility.
Difficulty - in providing the possibility of changing the position cutting tool. If there is no regulation mechanism, then all products will turn out to be calibrated (of the same standard size, although the same). There are several engineering solutions, so this issue will have to be dealt with separately. It is pointless to give something specific, without knowing what modification of the sawmill is in question.
The general manufacturing procedure and features of work are noted in the article. The author recommends that you first decide for what purposes it is supposed to assemble a band sawmill. And only then look for best option. You can simply copy the available drawings and assemble the installation of other sizes with your own hands, observing scaling. Or take a specific scheme as a basis, modifying (modifying) it for your own needs.
Good luck in designing a band sawmill!
A circular sawmill is a high-performance woodworking equipment that is present in almost every facility related to mining, wood processing and the production of wood products.
A circular sawmill (DP) is a hardware machine that is designed for longitudinal sawing of materials and is powered by a specific engine. By studying the drawings of the device, certain conclusions can be drawn regarding the design.
Like a band saw, a disc saw performs well in wood processing and performs corner sawing, which is what the corner sawmill is designed for. Tape and disk installations are two inveterate competitors, each of which can seem better in certain areas.
To make multi-saw, rotary sawing devices equipped with an electric or gasoline engine, you first need to understand the types of installations.
But if you need mobile, stationary, powerful, equipped with certain functionality, capabilities, it is better to make a short digression.
Numerous reviews and video instructions make it clear that it is quite possible to assemble a mini sawmill yourself. The only thing that can stop the master from buying sawmills such as Kedr, PD 2000 mini, PDPU 600 or Grizzly is the high price, which ranges from 150 thousand rubles. With all due respect to home craftsmen, it is almost impossible to assemble a full-fledged analogue of a high-performance factory sawmill.
Large-scale work using a wooden beam or plank, such as the work of a carpenter or independent construction at home, are associated with the need for regular sawing of raw logs. Of course, you can buy ready-made lumber or purchase a commercially manufactured sawmill, but this is expensive. This article tells (based on real experience) how a do-it-yourself band sawmill was made at relatively low cost.
It is quite possible to do and you will get robust design, which allows sawing a tree trunk into separate boards of three meters or more in length. You will need some materials (bars and parts of old machines), as well as to carry out locksmith, welding and turning work. Everything was planned to minimize the need for turning work. 
To assemble the machine, old pulleys were taken, about 30 cm in diameter, dismantled from the Niva combine. Sawmill guides were made of two types of pipes: a half-inch diameter and a second, slightly larger diameter, such that they easily fit on a half-inch pipe with a millimeter gap.
At the first stage, you need to make "rails". For this, a 5 cm steel corner was used. It is installed side up, which requires very high precision wheel adjustment (poorly installed wheels will quickly wear out on the corner). Sometimes, to solve this problem, the corner is laid with the edge up.
The "sleepers" of this design were a profile pipe measuring 25x25 mm.
Between these profile tubes, a half-inch pipe is welded, and claws are already fixed to it - fasteners for a log. These claws bend and move freely, and when it is necessary to fix the log, several hammer blows are made on the clamps, as a result of which the locking mechanism self-jamming occurs.
When a band sawmill was made with their own hands, the profile tubes (“sleepers”) were made in such a way that they protrude beyond the rails. There are screws (M14 x 100 mm) on the protruding parts for adjustment. In addition, on profile pipes"bridges" were made - jumpers on which a log is placed before processing. In the case of workpieces of small length, the last two jumpers are installed at a distance of half a meter one after the other.
The pulleys were sharpened so that the worn belt protruded several centimeters. For the pulley housings, hubs from the Moskvich car were used, welded to the tubes.
All this together moves along guides - horizontally located half-inch pipes, and if necessary, with the help of bolts, this assembly is fixed.
When setting up pulleys, you may run into unexpected problems that require them to be cut and welded back on. This is due to the fact that in practice, the installation of pulleys "according to science", in parallel, leads to the tape coming off during operation. So, it is better to install them with a slight inclination, up to 4 degrees, then the tape in motion will “pull itself” on the rollers.
The driven pulley is the right one, it is tensioned automatically by a spring. IN this case a spring dismantled from the KaSika motorcycle was used. And the leading, left pulley is fixed rigidly, but it can be displaced if the size of the band saw changes.
Hardened rollers must be used in the sawmill. In the variant described in the article, a roller assembly was used, which is easier to do on your own and be sure of its reliability.
This assembly consists of three bearings on one axis: two - brand 202 and the third, standing behind, is 2-4 millimeters larger. The shaft with rollers is machined so that when changing the width of the saw, install washers between the bearings.
The shaft enters into two tubes: a half-inch and a second, into which a half-inch is inserted. In a half-inch pipe, the shaft is located with an axis offset, in fact, welded to the bottom wall. This entire assembly of the shaft and tubes is attached to the guides in such a way that the roller assembly can be adjusted in height, shifted to the side, with different diameters of logs, and securely fixed after adjustment. From the side of the driven pulley, a dropper is installed on the roller, supplying a lubricating-cooling liquid (coolant).
The frame itself, one and a half meters high, is made of channel number 100, and for additional rigidity, the structure is reinforced with scarves. The cutting block can move along the channels by means of stud screws. A rigid fixation of the cutting unit in the sawmill is provided by bolts with a lock nut.
So, as you can see, equipment such as a do-it-yourself band sawmill can be made even in a small home workshop or garage. Thus, a carpenter or summer resident will have the opportunity, right at his site, to dissolve large blanks on boards for his needs or even earn a little - take orders for sawing logs.
A few more options for the working units of the band sawmill:
Sawing machine for wood (sawmill) - rather complex special production equipment, requiring strict observance of safety measures in the course of work. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, your own sawmill can significantly reduce the cost of wood construction and/or become a source of stable income. The purpose of this publication is to help the reader figure out how to make a sawmill with their own hands, choose the design that suits them and avoid insurmountable difficulties in its manufacture.
Interest in the "do-it-yourself sawmill" actually came to RuNet from the EU. There, in a certain period of time (which has not yet completely ended), independent sawing of round timber into measured lumber turned out to be profitable no matter what. In Russia, the situation is significantly different. First, the “scissors” of prices for wild logs and timber in Russia have already been “divorced” a lot. Secondly, the primary processing of wood is a particularly dangerous job, like logging. It is not realistic for a small individual entrepreneur to open a sawmill legally - Russian labor protection legislation is draconian in this regard.
The third point is sawdust. There will be a lot of them from the primary processing of wood. Store sawdust (for example, for fuel for the stove long burning) is impossible - they begin to ferment, releasing highly toxic methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol). Sawmills are required to hand over sawdust for recycling. “Beyond the hillock” is easier with them - the local MDF and fiberboard manufacturers will willingly buy the raw materials they need, maybe even with self-delivery. RF wood is by no means poor and Russian manufacturers slab/sheet wood materials"Left" parties do not take sawdust. Based on these conditions, it is possible to preliminarily determine cases when making a sawmill on your own in the Russian Federation may make sense:
The main feature of the sawmill is that the saw in it is always longitudinal. How much more difficult it is to cut wood along the grain is well known. Unlike circular saw the sawmill does not deal with measuring boards and beams, but with wild logs in general irregular shape. Therefore, in sawmills, a saw carriage with a working body (actually a saw) moves along the sawn log; otherwise, it is very difficult to ensure the accuracy and cleanliness of the washed down. At large timber processing enterprises there are also sawmills for sawing very long logs (up to 30, and in the tropics up to 60-70 m). In them, the carriage is motionless, and the log is moved by a hydraulic system; alignment of the line is provided by a computer with sensors. But at home, such a solution is unrealistic.
Note: sawing of logs is always carried out in the direction of convergence of the wood fibers, i.e. from butt to top. If you put the carriage in reverse, then any saw (see below) will certainly get stuck in the tree and / or break.
How affordable for manufacturing, durable, convenient and safe to use a home-made sawmill will be, is mainly determined by the design of its working body. Another essential condition is the requirements for the productivity of the machine and its mode of operation (regularly, from time to time). The third is the resource of the working body and the possibility of its replacement. And, finally, the energy supply at the place of work is also important: what is more accessible there - electricity or motor fuel? There are also less significant additional conditions, see below.
In sawmills of small and medium productivity (up to 3-5 cubic meters of wood per 6 hour work shift), the following are used. types of working bodies:
The orientation of the cutting surface can be horizontal or vertical. Resp. and washed down will be horizontal or vertical, and the sawmill will be horizontal or vertical. Vertical washed down, firstly, reduces the waste of material, because. it is enough to align the log under it only in a horizontal plane. Under a horizontal cut, a log to minimize waste requires alignment both horizontally and vertically, otherwise too much wood will go into the slab (“hump”). Secondly, when sawing vertically, the sawed off (sawn off part of the log) does not put pressure on the working body and clings to it much less. Therefore, for sawing the same timber vertically, the drive power is 2-3 times less than horizontally, see the video below:
But, firstly, the injury risk of vertical sawmills is much higher than horizontal ones. Secondly, the transverse feeding of a log under the saw of a vertical sawmill is structurally and technically very complex, and it is extremely difficult or even impossible to ensure the maximum allowable sawing accuracy according to specifications up to 6 mm per 6 m of log length on a home-made vertical sawmill. Therefore, it is better to build a sawmill with your own hands for a horizontal gash.
We will talk a little further about the features of a particular saw for a sawmill. First you need to understand the design of the sawing machine as a whole. It consists of:
Note: certain structural components of the sawmill can be made integral with the frame.
Drawings of the sawmill in full structural composition (layout diagram) are given in Fig.:
Its features are, firstly, a frame made of wooden beams. Secondly, a minimum of welding work during assembly. This important point A: metal structures when welding leads; because of this, it is very problematic to lay the accuracy of sawing with a welded sawmill in TU. Thirdly, the rail track of the carriage (pos. 13 on the right) from a steel angle, cheaper than a channel; the necessary stability of the track is ensured by the rigid fastening of the rails to the frame. As a result, the bearing shoes of the carriage are pairs of conventional rolling bearings, and the smoothness and accuracy of its movement are high; carriage tremor is the main cause of cutting defects. Another consequence is the carriage feed mechanism without gear (chain, screw, etc.), which also increases the smoothness of its movement. Finally, in a carriage of this design, it is possible to install a drive with any of the saws listed above under a horizontal cut; disk, with a tire of continuous action and a chainsaw, also for vertical.
The disadvantage of this machine is comb-shaped log holders. It is impossible to make them from a channel less than 60 mm, they will not hold the timber. That is, the last unusable slab will turn out to be no thinner than 60 mm. In addition, material waste will increase because the vertical alignment of the log in this machine is impossible. However, getting rid of these shortcomings is not so difficult by using a separate carriage for a log of a simple design, see below.
Some explanations require the operation of the unit for setting the thickness of the cut (on the sidebar), which in this machine is quite simple, accurate and easy to use. Nuts 5 on the tie-in are welded to the base plate 4 and locked. After the first cut, the adjusting screws (pos. 1 on the sidebar and 11 on the right) rotate synchronously, because they are connected by a chain drive (pos. 20 on the right). The locknuts (pos. 2 on the sidebar) do not need to be loosened: they will loosen themselves. After installing the saw in a new position below the previous one, the lock nuts are tightened by hand.
A reciprocating saw bar is nothing more than a carpenter's rip saw blade. Its drawing, tooth profiling and wiring diagram are given in fig. on right. The drive in the sawmill - from the flywheel to the crank mechanism through the slider - is a smooth steel rod sliding in a cage with bronze or babbit inserts (this is exactly what is shown in the figure above with the layout diagram of the sawmill). In the old days, instead of a saw tire, craftsmen put blades of carpentry bow saws; they also saw along, and you could buy them in almost any tool store. In this case, the web tension on the return stroke is provided by a sufficiently strong return spring.
The advantage of a reciprocating saw bar is a smooth, clean cut with a width of no more than 3 mm, i.e. little waste of material. The resource is very solid, no less than that of a saw blade, see below. But there are also a lot of disadvantages:
In professional forestry, reciprocating saw bars have fallen into disuse since late XIX century, and for amateurs - with the advent of chainsaws in everyday life.
The saw blade from a circular saw is not suitable for a sawmill: it is made of steel the worst quality than required in this case. When sawing damp logs, the material of the disc from the circular will soon self-release due to heating, the disc will quickly fail or it will be completely blown apart. That's why saw blade for a sawmill, pleasure is not cheap. In separate sources, you can find advice: they say, cut a round from galvanized (!) Or duralumin (!!!), fasten 2-4 teeth on it, and saw. Judging by the fact that the authors of publications of this kind seem to be alive and not mutilated, they themselves did not do this and have no idea what could come of it.
Disc sawing of wood is widespread in professional woodworking, because. allows you to cut several pieces of measured lumber from the wood in one pass; for this, angle and multi-blade saw carriages are used (top left inset in the figure). However, an industrial sawmill is a complex structure, see fig., on the topic “with your own hands” does not pass in any way.
An amateur, if he gets hold of a sawmill disk (diameter from 600 mm, the tooth profile is the same as that of a longitudinal saw, see above), you need to keep in mind its advantages and disadvantages:
In general, a do-it-yourself sawmill is definitely not an option. Consider the drawings in fig. below. The first thing that catches your eye on the left is a carriage on rollers in channel rails. This is not a rail track made of milled profiles: the rollers are skewed by 1-2 mm when the carriage is moved. The result is a disc warp of 6 mm or more. Immediately - his stuck in a tree. Given the mass of the disk, its rotation speed and moment of inertia, the occurrence of an emergency and extremely traumatic situation is inevitable.
Further, the lower edge of the disc must fit into the groove of the log carriage, otherwise it will not finish sawing it to the end. And so, we sawed off the first crust. What's next? In theory, the grooves in the carriage need several according to the thickness of the resulting boards. After each washed down, either the carriage rises, moves forward and again falls into the working position, or the carriage with the log must be moved under it in the same way. Do you imagine such a design, made at home? No, it's going to give you a headache.
What if it's simple? Just move the log on the carriage? No, not easy. It must be laid again so that the next washed down runs exactly parallel to the previous one. And on the carriage there is not a stick, there is a hefty heavy block of wood.
Well, let's say our family / staff are heroic, we don't care to turn logs, and the loss of productivity due to this is acceptable. Then we look at what is marked in red in the drawing on the right in Fig. Yes, it's a log holder. Without it, it will either roll off the carriage, or tip over when 2-3 blocks are sawn off ( unedged boards throughout the forest for dissolution on measuring boards). The holder falls on the very middle of the log. You can't pee on it. In total, the most valuable, wide, strong and most uniformly drying core chopping block will most likely go to waste, because. due to the shifting of the log, it will turn out to be unacceptably converging to a wedge in thickness.
Note: an amateur single-disk sawmill for a horizontal saw is no more convenient and no more productive than a vertical one, but structurally it is much more complicated and dangerous.
So, a do-it-yourself circular sawmill is an option in one single case: if you come up with an improvement in the rank of a commercially promising invention and you need to test the idea in hardware in order to apply for a patent. In all others, it is not necessary.
The band sawmill is one of the inventions that give a significant result in trivial ways. technical solutions. A reciprocating rip saw has a lot of advantages, and its disadvantages are due most of all to the presence of a reverse motion. So, you need to get rid of it to get a continuous saw blade. As a result, the operational properties of the band sawmill differ significantly from those of the prototype and machines of a similar purpose:
Due to these features, the band sawmill finds the most wide application in small sawmills. According to most of the ads: “We accept a round log / log for sawing”, it is band sawmills that work. In Russia, band sawmills are produced in a fairly wide range (Taiga, etc.).
The easiest way to make a rip saw is to roll its blade into a ring and put it on the pulleys, pos. 1 next. fig.. To avoid injury by a non-working branch of the canvas, a protective cover is put on the working body. Making a sawmill with a tape without it (pos. 2) is extremely dangerous!
The second stumbling block for do-it-yourselfers here is the tape pulleys. The branded profile of the side surface (working) has a special slightly convex profile. The tape slips from the cylindrical pulley; flanges (rims) do not help. Some craftsmen from this tilt the entire sawing knot up 1-3 degrees. However, if the tension of the tape loosens a little (which is possible during one cut), the tape will fly off from above; without protective cover this is even more dangerous than sliding down.
Craftsmen smarter found a way out: the tape is put on wheels from cars and motorcycles with tires, pos. 3 in fig. and fig. at first. Their profile is almost exactly what you need, and the elasticity of the tightly inflated chambers ensures optimal belt tension, at least for sawing a whole log. In addition, if thin, sufficiently high-quality materials are sawn, then the simplest friction drive can be dispensed with, also pos. 3 fig. on right. Simplifies the manufacture of the machine, because. auto-moto wheels are already quite balanced, see video:
When sawing raw raw logs and knotty / serrated and viscous small-layered wood, the transmission from the drive to the tape (main) also turns out to be a stumbling block. The mechanical characteristic of the belt is too soft: the belt is elastic and can slip. The gear, on the contrary, is too rigid: for a moment before jamming, the gears give a sharp, strong jerk. In both cases, it is very likely that the tape will become stuck in the tree and collapse, which immediately creates a dangerous situation.
The best main gear for a band sawmill is chain. It provides an idle run of the belt almost as smooth as a belt one. And when sawing a "bad" tree, the chain's own inertia pulls the tape with small, frequent jerks, and the heterogeneity of the wood is successfully overcome. The same property of chain transmission is used, for example. in screw wood splitters.
The working body of a chain sawmill is a chain with saw teeth stretched on rollers. Its operational strength, resource and reliability (not prone to getting stuck on wood defects) are several times greater than tapes, and the cost per cut length to wear is lower. The saw chain is subject to resharpening (a sharpening machine is needed!) and does not require technical interruptions during the shift. The drive can be non-volatile from a 1-2 cylinder 2-stroke internal combustion engine: the saw chain itself dampens its vibrations. In terms of safety, the chain sawmill is the best in this segment of production equipment.
Disadvantages, firstly, increased energy consumption compared to tape - the chain casing rubs against the tree, although not as much as the disk. The second is a wide (4-6 mm or more) rather ragged cut: lumber from a chain sawmill needs to be sanded (therefore, a grinder is not often built into a grinder) or will go on sale as a second grade. Consequence: increased waste of material, up to 15% by volume. The third is that in continuous operation it is necessary to supply coolant (coolant, emulsion) to the saw chain, see fig. Fourth - a long technical break between shifts for self-healing of the properties of the chain: at least 10 hours. And, finally, the high labor intensity of maintenance: regrinding and / or replacement of chain teeth is required every 10-50 hours of work, and fuss with them - mother, do not worry!
Due to these circumstances, chain sawmills are used predominantly. for the primary sawing of forests at stock exchanges and at harvesting sites. In the latter case, the non-volatility of a machine with an internal combustion engine plays a decisive role: it is brought on a truck or tractor, the woods are cut into planks and they are taken away. In remote regions of the Russian Federation and Canada, timber losses are often more than compensated for by savings on transportation of round timber by timber trucks. But such an approach, of course, does not go to the benefit of the forest as a living community. And from excessive felling, and from clogging with sawdust.
The continuous saw bar is a cantilever chain saw, i.e. tension-free at the end far from the drive; coolant supply is also not needed. Do you recognize? This is the “canvas” of a chainsaw. Application modern materials and continuous improvement of the design has made it possible to create chainsaws that are suitable in all respects for domestic use. A sawmill from a chainsaw at home is also made much easier than any other; drawings of a bed with rails and a log holder can be taken, and carriages for a household chainsaw. Its operational qualities and features (except for the resource) will be approx. the same as the chain sawmill. Changeover from horizontal to vertical cut is carried out simply by moving the carriage. But be aware:
The last circumstance, as Comrade Sukhov would say, is a delicate matter. For models from leading manufacturers (Stihl, for example), both cuts are provided by default, but the resource for the longitudinal is given for normal use: 15 minutes of work, half an hour of rest. It is impossible to withstand it in the sawmill, because. it is impossible to stop the carriage while the sawing is in progress. In this case, the resource of the saw bar is reduced by half or three times. For “alternative” manufacturers, most often the opposite is true: by default, only a cross saw is used. If the user manual says “transverse and longitudinal”, “also longitudinal”, etc., then the resource for a longitudinal cut is not specified. Keep in mind.
For sawmills, special continuous saw bars are produced. Due to the rejection of the transverse cut, their extension (length) is greater, up to 1000-1200 mm, the cut is thinner (3-4 mm) and cleaner; virtually the same as a band saw. Resource and mode of use - like a saw chain. A sawmill with a tire can be of a conventional design (on the left in the figure), but in the context of home-made ones, it is of much greater interest tire sawmill type Logosol, center-right in fig. Spring-loaded edging supports keep the log from rolling. Elevators are adjustable separately, which allows you to level the log horizontally.
The history of Logosol is interesting and inextricably linked with ours. In the USSR, since the 1930s, the export of raw wood was strictly regulated and produced in large quantities through well-established channels. After its collapse, the former Soviet republics, which have forest reserves, literally flooded Europe with cheap round timber with norms even from a log. In the EU, the main own logging is carried out in Germany and Switzerland in the Alps. There are enough smart woodworkers here and there, and they are accustomed to working on an acute shortage of raw materials. At local prices for timber, the calculation of income from the purchase of wild timber and sawing into a board-beam in my yard gave results that made my eyes but forehead climb. Plus - there is no disposal headache from sawdust, but there is a significant additional benefit from selling them. It was then that the Swiss Bengt-Olof Byström came up with the sawmill, which he called Logosol. Its highlight is the replacement of a technologically complex rail track with a smooth guide along which the carriage is moved manually with pressure. This requires more work and some skill, but the design of the sawmill is greatly simplified, and its cost drops significantly. Amateurs have developed many modifications of Byström's undoubtedly successful design. Their drawings of Logosols and nodes for them can be openly taken from here: //www.logosol.su/files.htm. And how to make a Logosol sawmill with your own hands, see the video:
The appearance of Logosol is the immediate cause of the development and guide rails for sawmills. On sale there are their models, interfaced with household chainsaws: we remove the regular blade, we put the tire. Thus, the matter with the cost and laboriousness of the drive was also decided: a chainsaw on the farm is already a necessary thing.
Further development of Logosol's idea - a mini sawmill without a frame, guide and rails, see fig. on right. Instead of a guide, an existing saw cut is used; with careful manual sawing, its accuracy within the log is maintained. In this case, in addition to the tire and the drive, only the support platform and the handles for holding and moving remain on the carriage.
The pioneer cut is made according to a template (a flat board, at the top right in the figure), a channel, a frame from a corner, etc., longer than a log. Subsequent horizontal ones - according to the previous one, in the center on the right. If a vertical cut is needed, a channel is laid (bottom right), because. in this case, a flat lateral support surface is needed. However, all this does not eliminate the last problems: installing a log on a carriage, aligning it and holding it.
There was such a problem as a frame with additional nodes. The one in pos. 1 fig. on the left is far from optimal. For a one-time sawing on a self-construction, it is too complicated and expensive. It is also not suitable for long-term regular use: even if the supporting frame is made of a 200-mm channel, it will not sag on the first or second ten logs, which means the machine is completely unusable. A stationary sawmill must be made with a separate concreted rail track and a log carriage (pos. 2; we will not focus on safety in this case - the topic of this article is different).
The next tasks are leveling and holding the log. In industrial woodworking, they use hydraulic jacks in hooks. The log is hung on a hoist, lowered onto the carriage without touching, the jacks turn on and grab it tightly. In automated carriages, a log is placed on it and the hydraulics immediately level the wood according to the signals from the sensors.
In amateur conditions, the first is hardly feasible; the second is not feasible. In many homemade sawmills, log grips are made as shown in fig. below. The log is hung on car jacks (see below), hooks are brought to it, sliding along the guide (pipe, thick rod). The hooks are knocked out with a hammer according to the principle of “lightly tapping with a sledgehammer”, they are wedged on the guides and hold the log.
Firstly, such a fastening is simply dangerous: the grips can wedge due to vibrations during sawing, and this is an accident, most likely with serious consequences. Secondly, it is impossible to grab the forest by the very “bottom” in this way. This means that you will have to turn the log over without finishing it to half. As a result, the quality of sawing and the waste of material will be the same as on a vertical single-disk sawmill, see above.
Let's try to develop technical requirements for a log carriage, suitable incl. for use with a portable mini sawmill when working on site:
Drawings of a log carriage for a sawmill, incl. mini, satisfying the specified conditions, are given in fig. (left/center - top view). Material - channel 120x60, bar 14 and 16 mm.
Exactly under the holes M14 in the upper shelf of the channel, holes D15 are drilled in the lower one for the passage of the shanks of the hook-holders (on the right in the figure). The M16 holes in the bottom shelf (marked in green) are for threaded legs. The configuration in plan and the location of the grippers-holders allow you to securely hold both full-length logs and short logs. Use this carriage as follows:
The full functionality of this carriage will be provided by 2-5 clamps (almost always 3 is enough) for sawing blocks into dimensional lumber. The design of the clamp to the log carriage is clear from fig. below. The clamps are bolted into the regular holes of the M14 carriage, so their bases and the distances between the axes of the mounting holes are different: unlike the hook-holders, the clamps are not interchangeable! For dissolution into boards / beams, the logs are first sawn into blocks. Then the blocks are sorted and collected into packages of blocks of a similar configuration to each other. The next package is clamped with clamps on the gun carriage and spread on boards / bars with horizontal cuts.
Let's like, as they say, grandmas: what kind of sawmill to do with your own hands and in what cases it makes sense.
If you see a circle of clientele for sawing and / or see a stable income from the sale of lumber - band sawing on auto and motorcycle wheels. She will last at least until she has enough money to buy a “new, good” factory one. Then it will be possible to open a sawmill in all its form and calmly work legally. If sawing wood is an auxiliary activity for you, the Logosol sawmill will show itself better - it is less productive, but structurally simpler and cheaper, and a chainsaw will come in handy for it on the farm.
Do-it-yourself band sawmill allows you to save significantly if there is a need for constant processing of wood during the construction of houses, on the farm, or if you have your own small production.
Of course, you can not rack your brains and buy a tool, but a do-it-yourself tool, as mentioned above, will be much cheaper.
A band sawmill is better known to many as a band saw. Depending on the scope of work, the type of tool is selected.
The sawmill can be a belt type, chain or disk type. We are considering the manufacture of a tape type.
The principle of operation of a band sawmill is very easy to explain using the example of spools of thread.
The whole structure resembles the rotation of two coils, between which a thread is stretched. This thread plays the role of a saw, and the distance between the coils is the maximum size of the log.
What does a band sawmill do?
The band sawmill works as follows: the log is fixed on the platform and remains stationary, the mobile cart starts its movement and cuts the tree, the saw is in a horizontal position.
To end up with a board right size, you must initially set the parameters by the operator. The saw blade acts as a saw, which must be well stretched.
How a homemade sawmill works, see the video.
Before work, it is necessary to prepare the equipment: for this, they sharpen the saw, set the teeth.
It should be noted that the materials are selected depending on whether the drawings are made or not, because it is correct drawing is the basis of a quality product, thanks to which the calculation of materials is made:
In addition to materials, you will need the following tools:
The block principle underlies the organization of work.
It involves various variations of the device, starting with the basic one, where the saw is fed manually, ending with the most complex units, when the saw is fed automatically, the cutting thickness is set, electronic system programmed, etc.
Components of the structure:
To create an even, reliable product, it is necessary to make drawings according to which the entire structure will be assembled.
At the same time, the drawing must be studied and understood, otherwise you can simply lose not only time, but also money.
First, a frame (fixed part) of the machine is made, which has a U-shape.
It can be made from two channels, which can be replaced by two rails (for lack of the first materials). If you use rails, then they need to be installed so that the sole is on top.
The bed can also be made from corners (50x100 mm).
The height of the channel should be at least 14 cm, the length should be about 8 meters.
Holes must be drilled along the entire length of the materials in increments of 1-1.5 m. After that, with the help of pipes, the length of which is 25 cm, the channels must be pulled together.
Threaded rods or bolts are used for this.
In this case, the structure is additionally strengthened with the help of braces, since it is necessary to achieve the rigidity of the product. See drawing.
Next, a mobile trolley is assembled, the dimensions of which are set depending on the width of the bed, while the trolley on both sides should be slightly larger (about 8 cm) than the bed.
The length of the mobile structure should be approximately 60 cm. Most often, the trolley is made of steel plate, the thickness of which is 46 mm.
A special steering wheel is installed on the side of the structure body, which provides control of the trolley.
The guides on the sides must be equipped with sprockets to which the steering wheel is connected.
The entire structure moves with the help of a tensioned chain, which eliminates the free movement of the steering wheel.
So that during the operation of the sawmill the log does not jump out, it is necessary to make clamps that are made of pipes.
It is more convenient to use pipes whose inner diameter does not exceed 35-40 mm, since movable rods will be installed inside.
Clamps must be placed on the pipes from above. Metal corner is the material from which the clamps are constructed. Clamping cam mechanisms must also be installed.
If the clamping elements are less than 15 mm, then there can be no talk of reliability of the design.
If you take up the engine at the end of the work, then you must purchase it in advance so that the proportions of the entire structure are correct.
For the example under consideration (the length of the bed is 8 m), the engine power must be at least 10 kW, and the saw diameter must not be less than 1 m.
Otherwise, the dimensions of the entire structure must be revised to smaller ones.
In order for a homemade sawmill to work more efficiently, you should pay attention to some recommendations:
Consider a simpler type of homemade sawmill.
In order to make a circular sawmill, you will need to find a circular saw. An electric motor will be used as a motor.
First you need to make a welded frame, on which you will need to put a metal plate with a slot for the disk. From below, the plate shaft must be attached to the plate on bearings and pulleys.
Wheel electric motor connects to the saw with a belt.
To ensure good belt tension, it is necessary to use the mass of the engine itself, and you can also use weights. The sawmill is ready.
