Someone really wants to grow a plum on their own garden plot, but it doesn’t work. But someone has already grown it and now doesn’t know how to get rid of a plum tree, the growth of which causes considerable problems. Over the summer, the garden has turned into a thicket, and no matter how you fight this phenomenon, you cannot eradicate the young shoots.
Young gardeners should know that most types of plum trees have a tendency to spread shoots. But the shoots do not grow on their own. For its germination, certain conditions are required.
Factors influencing the appearance of unwanted growth around a plum tree
1. An unintentionally damaged plum root sends out many shoots. Therefore, you should not dig up the soil under the plum tree.
2. Abundant and merciless pruning of the crown of plum trees. In this case, the principle of self-preservation with the help of young shoots comes into play.
3. Dying branches and dried parts of the tree can also provoke the appearance of shoots.
How to get rid of plum by mechanical means? In the fight against plum growth, you should not count on mowing it down or cutting it down with an ax and that’s it. In the near future, your hopes for a clean area will be destroyed by the appearance of new growth, and even more more. The whole secret is that damaged young shoots “awaken” several dormant buds at once, and they, in turn, begin to actively grow. According to the principle of geometric progression - the more you mow and chop the plum, the larger and denser the new shoots grow. Experienced gardeners We advise you to be patient and act carefully.
First, carefully dig out the ground down to the root that “gave birth” to the growth. Carefully, close to the root, remove the growth with pruning shears so that no stump remains. Cover the cut with garden varnish or oil paint and cover with soil. How to remove a plum using chemicals? Often gardeners are faced with a situation where a cut plum tree sprouts a lot of young shoots from the roots. Uprooting does not help; even a small root remains viable and grows very quickly. In such a situation, agronomists advise resorting to drugs that are designed to control weeds. For example, "tersan" or "rancor". But it is worth considering that on the soil treated with these means, nothing will grow for two years, neither weeds nor cultivated dill. Perhaps you should pay attention to herbicides that have a more gentle effect, for example: Roundup. It burns the green part of the plant and decomposes in the soil into harmless compounds within six months. Thus, already in the spring you can use the treated area for cultural planting. medmoon.ru Other articles
Cherries and plums live in almost everyone’s dacha or personal plot. And, really, how can you imagine a classic Russian without them? Orchard? They bear fruit regularly, do not require careful care, and are simply incredibly beautiful. But such trees have one insidious feature - they annually form dense thickets of small root shoots. Moreover, the older the tree, the more sprouts it will produce. Do you want to know how to get rid of cherry blossoms once and for all? Then read on.
If your fruiting cherry, sweet cherry or even plum is grafted, then there is no benefit to you from annual seedlings, because all such cherries will be wild. Otherwise, the strongest and most viable sprouts can be used to propagate the crop, but in any case, most of the cherry shoots will have to be cut down regularly. Apukhtinskaya and Vladimirskaya cherries are suitable for this method.
But there are varieties that produce a huge number of root shoots, but the latter are completely unsuitable for propagation - for example, Molodezhnaya, Rastorguevskaya or Polevka. On the contrary, there are varietal varieties for which the formation of root shoots is not typical: these are mainly bush cherries Lyubskaya, Shokoladnitsa, Bagryannaya.
When everything in the garden is clear and precise, every tree is in its place, and the placement of flower beds is carefully planned, cherry shoots appearing in the most unexpected places can quite annoy even the most patient gardener, arousing an insatiable desire to remove it as quickly as possible. The main measure to combat such uninvited “guests” is most often removal by digging.
And completely in vain!
The fact is that cherries, like all coppice crops, have a specific replacement program - in place of one shoot dug up with roots, several new ones will grow next year. And so on ad infinitum. As a result, in a few years you risk turning into a person who completely digs up his garden every spring. Of course, no one wants such a prospect.
So how then can you get rid of cherry overgrowth on your property so that the destruction of the sprouts is not systemic? It’s very simple: you can get rid of root growth by simply cutting it out with pruning shears. It will be possible to remove cherry shoots if you cut them at a level of approximately 30 cm from the surface of the ground. Once the shoots are removed, this root will no longer be able to produce new shoots. Thus, in just a few years you can completely “wean” the tree from producing unnecessary shoots if you regularly destroy cherry shoots, even the most insignificant ones.
But this is far from the only way if you want to know how to effectively deal with cherry growth. There is another method that is labor-intensive at first, but very effective. In addition, it has a beneficial effect on the efficiency of fruiting. Its action is based on the fact that only those roots that are located relatively shallowly - about 40 cm from the surface - have the ability to sprout. Everything that lies deeper does not pose any danger regarding the issue under consideration. So, in order to prevent the cherry from growing, proceed as follows: define a circle around the seedling with a diameter of about 1.5 m and dig pieces of slate around the circumference to a depth of half a meter. Such a “fence” will not allow the root system to grow wider, but, on the contrary, will send the roots deeper. True, growth cannot be avoided inside the circle itself, but in such a limited space it will not be difficult to remove it, and over time there will be complete relief. Or you can cheat and hide circle with a thick layer of protective mulch (using dry leaves, mown grass or straw), then only a few sprouts will break through, and we will somehow get rid of them.
Some people prefer to remove the growth using special preparations - herbicides. But before you destroy the shoots in this way, be sure to weigh all the risks, because all shoots have a single root system with the mother plant, and your cherry does not need an extra dose of chemicals.
Experienced gardeners know not only how to remove, but also how to prevent the active formation of shoots. For example, it has been noted that abundant and infrequent watering makes the process less intense. It is also useful to mulch trees, control pests in a timely manner, and regularly carry out sanitary pruning.
The problem of overgrowth causes not only aesthetic, but also practical harm: if it is not dealt with, it greatly reduces the yield of cherries. And it is not surprising, because by feeding on the juices from the roots, the sprouts take away the tree’s precious vital energy. But this won’t happen to you, since you now know how to get rid of annoying growths.
From this video you will learn how to get rid of overgrowth.
Antonina Pavlovna asks: “How can you get rid of plum growths in your garden plot?”
Young plum trees cause a lot of inconvenience to owners garden plots. Your small garden can turn into an impenetrable thicket, and getting rid of young shoots is very difficult.
If you simply mow or cut down the growth, you will not achieve the desired result, because soon it will appear again. When injured, plum shoots will not die, as you expect, but, on the contrary, will actively grow. The more often you cut down young growth, the more it will become.
It must be removed with special patience and caution. First you need to dig up the ground to the rhizome, and then carefully remove the growth with pruning shears. The top cut should be covered with oil paint and buried again in the ground.
In some cases, uprooting may not help. Even a small root sometimes produces new growth. In such a situation, only chemical method. To do this, you will need to seek help from a specialized store where you can find weed control products.
If you nevertheless resort to the presented method of getting rid of plum growth in your garden plot, then you should expect that nothing will grow in the area treated with chemicals for 2 years. A better alternative is to use herbicides. They destroy only the green part of the growth and decompose in the soil within six months.
The more you dig up the stumps, the more growth will appear. It must be cut several times a season and immediately lubricated with Roundup, always undiluted.
By cutting down old plum trees, you will get rid of the growth in just a couple of years. If you leave the trees, the growth will appear in any case. Even if you accidentally touch the root of a plum tree, you will inevitably get new shoots. It is strictly not recommended to dig up the soil under a plum tree.
Thus, old dying branches can also provoke the appearance of new shoots, so you should take care of their cleaning in a timely manner. Plum shoots will also appear if you like to heavily trim the crowns of plum trees, so it is better not to overdo it, since such methods will provoke the tree’s instinct of self-preservation and will allow new shoots to grow.
You can get rid of plum growth on your site either physically or chemical methods. In any case, it will take patience and time.
(8
ratings, average: 2,12
out of 5)
Drill several holes in the trunk (stump, young tree). During sap flow, once a week I pour acid (electrolyte) diluted with water into the holes from a syringe. All the roots burn and there are no shoots. This is how I removed all the sea buckthorn shoots at the dacha. Good luck.
Add a commentIn late autumn, the root shoots that appeared over the summer in some fruit trees. Now is the time to break up with her. Young, non-lignified shoots can be easily broken off at the very base.
But if you hesitate to do this work, you will have to cut out the growth with pruners or even saw it out. Experts emphasize that its appearance is a symptom of the tree’s troubles and is caused by serious reasons.
Some trees root system, as is known, is superficial, and therefore can be injured when digging tree trunk circles. In such cases, root shoots are formed from adventitious buds at the wound sites.
To avoid this, it is recommended to replace digging of the ground under these types of trees with loosening with rakes or mulching. Sometimes the roots are exposed because they are planted high or watering is done under high water pressure.
To eliminate this, it is better to cover the roots with soil. The cause of the growth Branches may break off from the trunk, severe damage to the bark and other mechanical wounds of the tree may occur. If the rootstock and scion do not fit together, shoots also appear. This is usually accompanied by thickening of the scion above the grafting site, premature yellowing of leaves, weak annual growth or its absence, decreased winter hardiness. Such trees are short-lived.
The root shoots that grew near them, It is recommended to use it for vaccinations, but at the same time respecting the related sign, i.e. graft, for example, only an apple tree onto an apple tree. Sometimes two or three years come after winter damage to the bark and cambium, until the question arises where the dark ulcers on the trunk and branches came from, as well as deep cracks in the bark and its detachment from the wood.
Meanwhile, weakened trees are gradually affected by diseases. Their outer root part begins to dry out, and shoots sprout from the roots. In such cases, experts recommend cutting down the dying tree at ground level.
Root shoots on plum, cherry, apple trees.
A lot of root shoots form near the plum tree. I have to cut it out, but it's of little use. How to get rid of growth?
During the growing season, a lot of shoots often form not only in plums, but also in cherries. Of course, it needs to be removed, but it should be done correctly. If you cut down the grown root growth at a horizontal level, you will not be able to get rid of it. On the contrary, it is possible to cause rapid activity of coppice development.
A proven way to get rid of root growth is to dig up the shoots to the point where they depart from the main root and cut them off. After this, it is necessary to cover the root again with soil.
Propagation of plums by root shoots Plums are propagated by grafting, root suckers, root and green cuttings, and seed sowing. They graft a plum (by bud or cutting) not only onto a plum, but also onto a cherry plum, a sloe, and even onto felt cherry
Root shoots are the easiest and most commonly used option for propagating plums. Of course, this method is applicable only for self-rooted plants. Plum trees usually produce enough growth that needs to be removed so that the fruiting plant does not weaken. Therefore, if you ask your neighbors to dig up a root shoot from a fruitful and tasty plum variety, no one will refuse you - cut it down anyway!
So how to do it right? Initially, we choose the plum that we would like to have in our garden. If you find one, then inspect it trunk circle and determine which offspring to dig up. It is better that it is located away from the trunk. In this case, it will have a more developed root system, and it will be more convenient to dig it up. Inspect the shoot: it should be well developed, without signs of oppression. You can dig it up in the spring (preferably before the leaves bloom) or in the fall (late August - September). In areas with severe winters it is preferable spring planting seedling, since during the winter a still fragile plant with a completely unformed root system may die.
Don't be greedy!
Do not dig up a shoot that is too large - it will take root less well and will require more attention than a small one. Think, optimal size about 50 centimeters. But be more flexible in making decisions and do not take any recommendations as law.
If you came to visit some distant relatives or friends of friends and it is unlikely that you will have the opportunity to visit them in the near future, and you were treated to wonderful aromatic, sweet, melt-in-your-mouth plums, go into the garden, see where they grew, and ask to dig up the root shoot. Even if it is very small (at least 10 cm), you don’t lose anything, but you can gain good variety plum tree, which will decorate your garden if the shoot takes root in a new place. Don't be afraid that it is small - this one adapts better to other conditions and grows much faster. And don’t worry that it’s neither spring nor autumn—the optimal time for planting seedlings. At good care your baby won't even notice it.
Carefully rake the soil around the root shoot you have chosen, find the place where it joins the mother plant, carefully separate it and plant it with a lump of earth in some container - for example, in a trimmed plastic bottle from under mineral water. The soil needs to be moistened to prevent the roots from drying out, and in this form the seedling will survive a week before planting. If you can plant it immediately upon returning from visiting, then you can pack your purchase in a regular plastic bag, carefully tying it around the stem of the seedling.
The root of the tree from which the shoot has been separated must be sprinkled with ash or covered with garden varnish to prevent infection.
Regardless of whether you are propagating plums from your garden or dug up shoots from your neighbors, first plant the plant for growing in a specially prepared bed with good fertile soil. The bed should be located in such a way that the sun's rays fall on it as little as possible during the day. At first, it is important to provide the seedling with optimal temperature and humidity conditions and, most importantly, not to allow the soil to dry out. As soon as the plant acclimatizes, literally in a month, or even earlier, new leaves will begin to appear and growth will resume (this is during spring planting).
Feed the seedlings
Many people do not recommend feeding plum seedlings in the first year of life. Based on my own successful experience, I insist that young plants need feeding! Over the summer, the seedling must gain strength and build up its root system so that the coming winter does not cause any harm to it. Therefore, as soon as the seedling takes root and begins to increase its vegetative mass, I begin to feed it with a break of two weeks. This happens from about the end of June to the beginning of August. I feed with saltpeter, azophoska (it is better to dilute them in water, and not pour them under the root, so as not to burn the young roots), special solutions that are sold in the store, infusion of cut grass (better than nettle), and the ideal option is, of course, diluted in water mullein.
Like any gardener, I have a very tender feeling for manure. If it exists, I am practically omnipotent, and everything in my garden will bloom, smell fragrant and bear fruit. But it is not always possible to purchase manure, and sometimes they bring something that only vaguely resembles “liquid gold.”
However, when you really need it, you can always find a way out. Not far from our gardens, cattle used to graze, and my neighbor and I each took an old bucket and a hoe-hoe and went to the pasture, where we quickly collected a bucket of fresh manure and dragged all this wealth home. This amount is quite enough to dilute in water and feed all the young trees in your garden (unless, of course, you are engaged in their industrial cultivation), and there will also be some left over for flowers.
In mid-August, I apply potassium fertilizers to my seedlings so that the young green shoots, which were actively growing thanks to fertilizing, ripen (wooden) before the onset of frost and do not freeze in winter. For many years, not a single seedling has died.
Planting in the garden
In the spring of next year, a well-formed plum seedling, grown from shoots by you, is ready to be transplanted to a new place. This procedure will go completely unnoticed for the plant if you carefully dig it up from all sides and move it with a lump of earth to a new place (make sure to plant it the way it grew in the same place, focusing on the cardinal points).
The planting hole is made in such a size that the roots of the plant fit comfortably in it. Don’t forget to fill it well with fertile soil, add a handful of fertilizers, mix everything well and only then plant. One subtlety - do not bury the root collar of the plum, because it will subsequently become rotten. The soil around the planted plant is compacted, but carefully, and watered.
Marina Ivanova
