Plastering a house can improve appearance, and will also hide existing defects. Plastering the facade of a house with your own hands is quite possible.
Facade plasters existing on the finishing materials market have different properties: water-repellent, heat-insulating, fire-resistant, sound-proof and others. However, the outer finishing layer inevitably feels the influence of the external environment, so it must have a number of properties and characteristics.
Resistance to moisture and atmospheric influences. The influence of precipitation and other atmospheric phenomena on façade plaster is quite significant. Therefore, the main task of plaster is to compensate for the effects of these factors and not allow moisture to pass through;
All these qualities make this element an ideal facade finishing material. A facade plaster DIY is also relatively cheap and easy to implement.
The finished coating can be painted and decorated according to the taste of the home owners. The finishing material may contain marble or glass chips, quartz sand, which will give the coating an aesthetic effect. In addition, it is possible to give the plaster one color or another, which avoids subsequent painting of the facade.
For successful implementation work, the surface intended for finishing should not have deviations from the vertical position. The permissible value is no more than 10-15 mm.
The walls of old brick buildings should be checked for bricks with peeling surfaces. Such areas can be identified by lightly tapping with a hammer. Any errors found must be repaired with a leveling mixture.
Before covering with plaster, the surface of a façade made of foam plastic, foam glass, or porous concrete should be strengthened by covering it with a special mesh.
It is recommended to cladding the building after its construction has been completed. This is due to the fact that the structure can shrink, which will exceed that of the cladding. Such a discrepancy can lead to the formation of cracks.
Initially, you should select a mixture, which is based on the characteristics of the wall material.
One of the common methods of processing the plastered surface of a house is texture treatment (rollers with special wool, ordinary sponges, etc. are used). Its type depends on the properties of the material used and the degree of hardening of the coating at the start of processing.
Plaster with the addition of lime can be processed while still in a plastic state, and cement plaster - only after final setting.
To give the effect of rough roughness, the surface can be treated with rubber or metal brushes, as well as brushes, without waiting for the solution to harden.
Give light beautiful Roughness can be achieved using a trim brush, using it to treat the still damp plaster. You can add texture to the wall using cycles 2 hours after application, and the use of impact tools is possible no earlier than 8 hours.
Plastering work is labor-intensive, dirty, with harmful factors and at the same time requires high qualifications. Because of this, the cost of the work is high, and exceeds the cost of materials several times, so anyone who started a renovation wondered: is it possible to plaster the walls with your own hands? At least just the walls, to begin with, and after getting your hands on a little, you can try. Or, say, give the ceiling to a professional, and plaster the walls intended for cladding yourself, without achieving perfect evenness.
First of all, there are two fundamentally different types of plaster - dry and wet monolithic. Dry plaster is nothing more than plasterboard (gypsum fiber sheets, gypsum fiber board). It costs one and a half to two times less than a monolithic one, but is fragile, does not hold (tiles, porcelain tiles, stone), and with the most careful execution and careful handling it lasts no more than 10-12 years. The technology of dry plaster is completely different from that of monolithic plaster, so it is not considered further.
Monolithic plaster with your own hands is quite doable and does not require any superpowers. There are only two initial conditions: stable nervous system and a sober (well, except for holidays, in moderation) lifestyle. The “friends” of the green serpent and the subjects who are “sausaged” do not make plasterers - their hands are not strong. But before you get ready for work, you need to decide how much you can save? Is the game worth the candle?
The average cost of plaster per square meter in the Russian Federation as of November 2013 was from 250 rubles. for a layer of 10 mm, up to 550 rub. for a 40 mm layer, per square meter for a finished area of up to 2000 sq.m. total. When increasing the area to 5000 sq. m the price drops to 200-450 rubles. respectively. For materials you need to add about 125 rubles/10 mm per sq.m.
Plaster beacons are special narrow oblong parts that form an imaginary surface above the wall. flat surface, see fig. A spatula or falcon is drawn along the beacons, leaning on them, from bottom to top, rubbing the solution between them. On a brick or well-prepared wall made of ordinary concrete Some types of ready-made dry mixtures can be plastered without spraying: apply a trowel to the falcon or wide spatula solution and rub in.
Installation of beacons under plaster on walls that are even within 3 mm is done using flea screws or mounting glue. If not smooth walls ah, installation of beacons becomes more complicated.
First, in the upper corner of the wall, a self-tapping screw is driven into the dowel and a plumb line is lowered from it. Self-tapping screws with a slot for a flat-head screwdriver or a universal one are convenient for this; A plumb string is inserted into the vertically oriented slot of the self-tapping screw.
Further down the cord, drive a second self-tapping screw and, adjusting both, ensure that MINIMUM distance from the wall to the cord was equal to the height of the lighthouse. After this, the cord is removed, and several piles of thick mortar are thrown up the wall; The beacon is placed on them, aligned with the heads of the screws and pressed down.
Then the cord is lowered and the beacon is pressed along it until it is level. After the mortar under the beacon has set, apply the same plaster mortar on the sides with a spatula, then install the beacon in the opposite corner in the same way, pull the cords horizontally and install the remaining beacons in increments slightly less than the width of the falcon or wide trowel. Plastering is done by turning the tool slightly obliquely, back and forth.
Once the gaps between the beacons are filled to the top and the solution has set, another 1-2 mm of primer is added to cover the tops of the beacons.
Galvanized steel beacons can rust and rust will appear on the walls. To avoid this, use the following methods:
Removing beacons from not completely hardened plaster leaves wide rustications, which are sealed with a plaster mixture for soil. No experience after that finished wall stripes of depressions or convexities may appear.
Plastic beacons are very expensive, as they are made of carbon fiber or comparable in strength and rigidity. They can be replaced with strips of gypsum board impregnated on both sides with a water-polymer emulsion, cut according to a pattern using a jigsaw. They are attached to the wall either with glue or by pressing them into piles of spray, but such beacons do not stick firmly to the wall, and you need to work carefully so as not to knock them down, especially when splashed.
Surface beacons for plaster are made by highly qualified professionals when plastering complex surfaces. They are small sections of plaster with flat tops that match the final surface. Do-it-yourselfers and ordinary plasterers, as a rule, do not master the techniques of aiming beacons.
It is convenient to rough-shape the internal corners of the walls with a large square falcon or a special corner trowel, similar to a plow with a protruding angle at the top of 90 degrees. They are brought to evenness by rolling them over the beacons with a piece of plastic pipe 60-100 mm in diameter. Old methods of rolling corners - a bottle, a ball - developed at a time when plastic pipes hasn't happened yet, but steel pipe It's uncomfortable to ride.
Door and window slopes should have some expansion inward - the dawn of the slope. Necessary for this obtuse angles are formed either by applying a wooden lath of the required thickness to the frame, or by special beacons for slopes. Clean corners are also rolled with a pipe.
Wooden walls to be plastered are first covered with felt, and the felt with roofing felt or glassine paper, otherwise the pile will prevent the plaster from sticking. Then they knock down a two-layer sheathing of shingles, or shingles - thin narrow flakes along the fibers from ridges or blocks of industrial wood.
New progressive methods and nanotechnologies appearing almost every day in production and in everyday life never cease to amaze both ordinary people and professionals. Take, for example, the same construction. Could it be, say, in Soviet time some foreman, almost with tears in his eyes, knocking out the notorious plan from his workers, dream that there would be not only special devices for plastering walls, but at least more or less acceptable finishing materials, and not just sand and cement . Of course not. But they worked. They erected houses and handed over keys to apartments to happy new residents. And they carried out the same plan. And they overfulfilled it. True, the quality of the work left much to be desired, but these are minor things. And therefore, today, when there is a huge amount of all kinds of finishing materials that greatly facilitate the work of the master, it would be a sin not to take advantage of it. Houses are still being built today; the same crooked, Soviet-era walls remain, which the current owners would like to bring to fruition. You never know where they are required Finishing work. And they are oh so expensive if you invite professionals. That is why home craftsmen are increasingly thinking about how to learn how to plaster walls, whether it is possible to cope with this work on their own, which materials are better for which surfaces. We will try to give a comprehensive answer to these and other questions in our review. At the same time, we’ll tell you in detail how to plaster walls using beacons, what types of finishing materials there are, how to properly prepare the surface, and much more. We read, we educate ourselves, we learn. And we plaster the walls with our own hands.
Since no one can plaster walls without at least rudimentary skills and knowledge of the basics of the process, let’s start, as they say, from the very beginning. By and large, there are only two finishing methods. This is plaster, so to speak, on a plane, using a special device - the rules. And with the display (necessarily at the building level) of lighthouses. The first option is used in cases where the curvature of the surface is not too noticeable, and the defects and differences existing on it are not particularly significant. The second is used for finishing rough walls. Or so crooked that they can only be brought to perfection by applying a thick layer of finishing material. It is much easier to work in a plane, but with beacons it is much more difficult. Therefore, before looking for the answer to the question of how to properly plaster walls, wisely assess the surface to be updated. It may be possible to get by with a little bloodshed, so to speak.
The question “how to plaster walls correctly” cannot be answered unambiguously. Because this type of finishing work can be performed in different ways and using different materials. In addition, the walls themselves are also not all the same and not everywhere. They can be either internal or external. Both façade and surfaces can be plastered utility rooms. Agree, it is difficult to compare the walls of a closet with those in, say, a living room or bedroom. In this regard, when we plaster walls with our own hands, without, quite understandably, having the necessary professional skills, we should remember the following. In non-residential premises that do not require additional finishing (the same wallpapering or cladding ceramic tiles) - storerooms, garages, sheds, etc. - applicable the usual way plastering walls. With this type, the solution is applied only in two layers, usually by eye. With an improved finish, they are plastered in three layers, in addition, the walls must be puttyed after applying and drying the solution. High-quality finishing involves the use of beacons and expensive mixtures from well-known brands.
In addition, anyone who has decided to thoroughly study how to plaster walls correctly must remember one more thing: do not confuse ordinary finishing with decorative ones. Venetian, flock, textured and other types of plaster are not intended for leveling walls. This is the final stage of finishing work, followed only by painting.
It is quite understandable that every novice master has a logical question: “What is the best way to plaster walls?” Today, few people prepare solutions on their own, because you can buy ready-made mixtures that just need to be diluted with water. The main thing is to choose them correctly. For example, cement-lime mixtures are excellent for walls made of aerated concrete, brick, and concrete. They are made from sand, lime, cement and various additives that promote better adhesion of the solution and improve its quality characteristics. There are also universal mixtures suitable for finishing any walls, both inside and outside. They are called cement-sand, and what they consist of is clear from the name. Plus, of course, the same additives, without which, by the way, not a single mixture for finishing work can do today. The last type - gypsum plasters - is the most popular. But these mixtures are also the most expensive. But they are easy to work with, and the quality of finishing with gypsum solutions is always excellent. True, they dry out very quickly, in addition, they cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, for example, if the question is “how to plaster the walls in the bathroom,” then the best answer to it would be to choose a cement-sand mortar that is not afraid of any water.
When wondering how to plaster walls, you need to understand that without special tools there is no way to get by here. Therefore, every novice finisher must certainly acquire the following materials and tools:
Since it is impossible to plaster walls without first preparing them, let’s say a few words about this simple, but very important process. First of all, it is necessary to remove the old coating existing on it from the surface. First of all, this applies to wallpaper, oil paint, whitewashing. Moreover, you need to get rid of them very diligently, to the maximum. If you find significant cracks or any other mechanical damage on the wall, they need to be widened, then cleaned of the existing sand, primed and sealed with mortar. You also need to check the surface for internal defects, in particular voids. Why do you need to tap the wall? The presence of a dull sound will indicate that in this place the old plaster has poorly adhered to the base surface. It must be beaten off and then sealed as well. If the resulting holes after beating are very deep, then for better adhesion of the solution used to fill defects, you need to put some kind of filler into them - foam plastic, pieces of reinforcing mesh, etc. It is also better to beat off the bumps protruding above the surface, which will make it possible to significantly save quantity finishing material used.
A prerequisite is that the surface must be very carefully primed before starting work. Each finishing material has its own type of primer (information about this can be read on the packaging in which the mixture is stored). If there is no way to purchase exactly the one recommended by the manufacturer, take acrylic. We apply the primer either with a roller or a brush. If you have a spray bottle, even better. You can use it.
Even highly qualified professionals, not to mention beginners, often make mistakes. What should you be wary of when starting to plaster walls? What defects are most common and how to avoid them?
Shrinkage cracks most often occur because the mortar used for the job dries too quickly. Most often this happens when the room temperature is very high. Or there is a draft moving through it. Another reason for the appearance of this kind of cracks is the application of a subsequent layer of mortar on top of the previous one that has not yet had time to dry.
It also happens that in some places the new plaster simply begins to peel off. All this happens due to the fact that the preliminary preparation of the walls was carried out incorrectly (or carelessly). Let's say base surface was either too dry or very dirty.
Sometimes on freshly finished walls in certain areas the mortar seems to swell. Cause? The original base surface was very raw.
Quite often, novice craftsmen are not very happy with their work, because the plastered surface turns out to be rough. Well, it was necessary to carry out the final procedure - grouting - more conscientiously.
The occurrence of all of the listed shortcomings may be due to one more reason: a discrepancy between the material from which the walls are built and the mortar used for finishing. But we will cover this issue in more detail below.
By and large, the process of plastering walls is almost always the same. The only thing is that some nuances may arise when using finishing materials that have a different base. As we said above, all solutions are usually prepared from gypsum or cement. Therefore, a few words about their features.
So, how to plaster walls with gypsum plaster? Firstly, such mixtures are very rarely used to level walls that are characterized by large curvature. You can't call gypsum plasters bad. On the contrary, they are very good. But, as we already mentioned, firstly, they are expensive, and secondly, they dry very quickly. In this regard, they are most often used only where it is necessary to apply a small layer of finishing material to obtain a high-quality final result. Due to the fact that gypsum mortar dries quickly, it is ideal for sealing large local defects. As for the features of working with it, you need to remember one thing: you need to knead it quickly, and not very much. As much as is needed to treat a section of wall for an hour. Naturally, you cannot compare the speed of work of a professional and a novice master. Therefore, mix the solution in small portions and quickly, using a special mixer (this is the name of the attachment on an electric drill). Spray the entire prepared mixture at once with a small spatula, and then level it over the surface with a large one (about forty or fifty centimeters long). The first layer is aligned horizontally. If you need to apply another layer, you should wait until the first one is completely dry. The second one is aligned vertically.
Modern cement mortars, due to the presence of various additives and modifiers in them, are very plastic, easy to work with, and do not harden for a long time. How to plaster walls with cement mortar? Yes, exactly the same as with plaster. The only difference is that cement mixtures do not dry out so quickly, and therefore they are excellent for finishing large areas. In addition, if it is necessary to apply the solution in several layers, it is necessary to increase the exposure time (the solution dries within six or even eight hours).
When, after a little practice, you realize that you have already gained enough experience, you can work using the rule. First, spread the cement mixture over a large section of the wall, and then level it, working from top to bottom.
One of the most painful questions. How to plaster the corners of walls? Indeed, this can become a problem. Especially when you consider that the corners in our apartments are far from exemplary. In order to make them straight, you can use a little trick. You need to stock up on a good straight board, and its length should be the same as the height of the room. Then use self-tapping screws to fix it directly into the corner of the perpendicular wall, retreating from its edge a distance equal to the thickness of the applied layer of plaster mortar. The procedure must be carried out using (this is a prerequisite) a level and a plumb line. After the plastered surface has dried, fix the board in the same way on the already treated surface in order to finish the entire corner. As for the outer corners, everything is much simpler here. To finish them, a special perforated metal profile is sold, which is attached to the corner to be leveled using mortar. We control the correctness of the work at the same level.
As you can see, the devil is not so scary... Well, now about a more complex procedure. About how to plaster walls using beacons.
This method allows you to obtain an almost flat surface at the output. When working with beacons, a cement-based mixture is used for plastering, but the profile must be secured to the wall with gypsum mortar, since it dries faster. So, the algorithm of actions.
Beacons are special metal profiles that can be purchased at almost any hardware store. Before purchasing them, measure the height and area of the room to be finished. And then do the calculations. The profile must be installed every one and a half meters. The distance from the first lighthouse to the corner is no more than fifteen, maximum twenty centimeters. As for the length, it varies, but not less than two and a half meters.
So, a description of the process. Vertically we apply bumps of gypsum mortar to the wall every thirty centimeters. Then carefully insert the beacon into them (its length should correspond to the height of the room). And then, checking with a level, we press the profile into the solution so that in the end it stands perfectly level. First, we install two beacons in the corners in this way. Then we stretch the thread between them (under the ceiling and closer to the floor). It will serve as a guide for installing beacons in the middle of the wall. Now you need to wait until the solution dries completely. Experienced masters Alabaster is often used to strengthen lighthouses. But this method is not entirely suitable for a beginner, since such a solution dries out almost instantly. So it's better to be patient.
Next you need to plaster the gaps between the beacons. Starting from the floor, add the solution. And then, as a rule, running it along the beacons (almost like on rails), we pull it up and level it. Filling the gaps must be done in parts. Professionals recommend that after the gap is completely filled, apply the rule several times in the vertical direction. This will make the wall smoother.
Upon completion of the work and after the solution has dried, some then break out the profiles, and the resulting cavities are sealed again. By and large, apart from additional difficulties, this will not bring anything. So the beacons can be safely left in the wall. They are made of stainless metal, and therefore will not present any unpleasant surprises during the further finishing process.
As a rule, if such extensive work is carried out in a room, then everything is finished. Therefore, a novice master is interested in how to plaster slopes. We answer. Just like everything else. Using a solution and a level. As you know, slopes (it doesn’t matter whether they are doors or windows) have external corners. A special profile is used for their finishing. We have already mentioned it above. As for the material used, if the defects on the slopes are large, then it is preferable to use cement mortars, since the plaster will have to be applied in several stages. If not very good, plaster will do. The algorithm of actions is similar. Preparing the surface, pouring the solution, leveling it with a spatula. The final stage is finishing with putty and painting.
Everyone knows that wall surfaces are different. This could be plasterboard, which, by the way, there is no need to plaster, since the walls made of it are already smooth, and brick, and wood, and blocks. The finishing of each surface has its own nuances. What follows in a few words.
How to plaster walls made of foam blocks? For these purposes, a cement mixture is usually used. You can use a regular one, or you can purchase a special one, created for finishing this particular material. True, its cost is much higher. Let's agree right away. The plastering process itself - regardless of what the base surface is made of - is the same in all cases. The difference lies only in the presence or absence of any additional steps. For example, to plaster foam blocks, it is necessary to first strengthen the surface with a reinforcing mesh. It is mounted on special hooks. And then carry out finishing work. How to plaster aerated concrete walls? The same as from foam blocks - cement mortar. Only here it is already possible to do without reinforcement; it is enough to place a polyurethane paint mesh under the solution.
To the question about how to plaster brick walls, you can answer the following. If they are very uneven, then you also need to carry out reinforcement first. And use the same cement mortar as the material. With almost perfect brickwork, it is quite possible to work with a gypsum mixture. But, as already mentioned, it is more expensive, and therefore large areas not very acceptable (based on economic considerations). As for how to plaster wooden walls, then everything is clear here. Only on the lathing, and only with gypsum mortar. A lot has already been said about the latter, so we won’t repeat it. As for the so-called shingles, they are made from slats, nailing them crosswise. After which I treat it with an antiseptic, and then apply a plaster solution to the surface.
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Sooner or later, the topic of renovation comes up in every home. From the quality of the preparatory work The final appearance of the room will also depend. By applying force once high-quality finishing, in the future it will only be possible to periodically re-paste the wallpaper or change the color of the walls. Initially, it may seem that the work cannot be completed by a non-professional craftsman. But you can try to make at least rough sketches. In addition to moral satisfaction, this will also significantly save your personal budget. This review describes in detail the entire technological process, how to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner. Videos and step by step instructions will help you understand the construction nuances.
Start of the process
The main purpose of plaster is to level the geometry of wall and ceiling bases in order to eliminate unevenness or defects. It is used for rough finishing. The application technology allows the mixture to be applied in a thick layer in case of large deviations. By plastering the walls in the apartment, you can get the most even foundations.
According to its composition, plaster is as follows:
The most important difference between them is the drying time of the solution. Gypsum mortar requires up to a week to dry completely, cement mortar will take about a month. Therefore, compositions with should be used in cases where it is necessary to achieve maximum durability.
This coating will last for several decades. Modern manufacturers injected into mortar mixture polymer additives that speed up drying up to two days. The cement mixture is used to level surfaces in basements or for laying tiles.
The process of leveling walls with plaster with your own hands is quite labor-intensive, so gypsum solutions are often used. With gypsum compositions, it is important to maintain humidity conditions. Gypsum plaster can be applied in one layer, which significantly saves the budget. Finishing is carried out both on a brick base and on wooden surfaces. To achieve perfect smoothness, the coating should be puttied after the plaster has dried.
For beginners would be better suited cement with polymer additives plaster walls. Video tutorials will help you understand and painstakingly complete the entire process in compliance technological sequence.
A person who is far from understanding construction terms will at first glance decide that these are synonyms for one type of construction work. In fact, these concepts have both similarities and significant differences. Both materials are intended for leveling surfaces, but this is where the similarity ends.
Related article:
Plaster and putty - what is the difference and general features, in what cases they should be used, recommendations from experts - read about this and much more in our review.
Manufacturers offer a dry composition or a ready-made plastic solution. Cement, gypsum and polymers are added as binders. Using putty, you can smooth out small surface defects and make the base smooth after plastering. For cracks up to 10 millimeters in size, a starting composition is used. used for final leveling of surfaces.
You cannot mix starting and finishing putty. Compositions of different homogeneity can form additional defects on the substrates.
Using plaster, you can level surfaces with deviations of up to 15 centimeters. In addition, it acts as thermal insulation of surfaces, in some cases additional moisture protection.
Plaster can be ordinary or decorative. The composition contains large grains. It is used as a rough leveling or finishing structural coating.
When applying putty and plaster, different technologies are used. For plaster this happens as follows:
Apply according individual technology. The plaster composition needs several days to dry completely, the putty is ready the next day.
Before execution repair work it is necessary to study the features of the base of wall surfaces. The method of performing the work will depend on this. For smooth walls, a spatula and a level are enough. Substrates with large defects and deviations can only be leveled using. You may need a large amount of mixture. In this case, additional reinforcement should be performed on the wall.
There are several rules for plastering walls:
A video on how to properly plaster walls will help you complete all the work correctly:
Some tools are already available in every home. Something will have to be purchased or rented. But this is not a tool for one repair; everything will be useful in subsequent repairs. You could say it’s an investment in the future. Now we know what tools are needed for plastering walls, we can start making repairs.
To prepare cement plaster, mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. Water is gradually poured into the composition with constant stirring. The result should be a solution with the consistency of sour cream with high fat content. Before mixing, you should read the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. If repair work is carried out in a room with high humidity, experts advise adding lime. It will remove excess moisture and make the microclimate more comfortable.
For surfaces made of concrete and foam concrete blocks, it is recommended to use gypsum-lime plaster. Its plasticity is well maintained on the base. To prepare such a solution, pour gypsum into a bucket of water in a thin stream, then quickly mix everything, adding milk of lime. This mixture is applied quite easily, and will help beginners get their hands on finishing work.
To plaster walls with your own hands, you can buy a ready-made mixture, which is offered in a wide variety in construction hypermarkets and stores. This is the easiest way to prepare.
The work process of preparing the surface for plastering begins with cleaning the base from previous coatings. After that, the level of deviations should be determined in order to determine whether additional work is needed or can be done without.
Then you should carefully prime all bases with a brush or roller. It is necessary to choose a primer deep penetration, save on composition for at this stage not necessary, this will help good adhesion of the putty to the surfaces. In addition, it will protect the walls from excess moisture and prevent the occurrence of mold and fungus, which can cause corrosion of the material.
Before applying plaster to the walls with your own hands without beacons, after the primer has dried, you should thoroughly moisten all bases with water.
| Photo | Description of work |
|---|---|
 | Before starting work, we clear the floor of debris so that it is convenient to collect the fallen solution, and all sockets are closed. |
 | All the walls get wet |
 | Spread the mixture with a spatula onto a 1 m² base in random order. We perform all actions with the hand. This is important so that the mixture hits the base accurately and does not scatter. It is necessary to just apply it, then the plaster will penetrate into the hollow places of the walls, in addition, this method will increase adhesion to the surface. |
 | Use a grater to smooth out the wall using random movements. Layer thickness is about 5-7 mm. All surfaces are gradually plastered using similar movements. Work should start from the floor to the ceiling. There is no need to perfectly level the base; a rough surface will improve the adhesion of the second layer. The drying time of the first layer should be at least 2 hours. |
 | After the first layer has dried, you need to go over all surfaces as usual. It will remove all large irregularities. The construction tool should be pressed tightly to the base and all walls should be leveled with arbitrary movements. |
 | When performing the second layer, the solution is applied to the base with a trowel using a spatula. Leveling should be done with some effort and voluntary movements. |
 | After setting, it is necessary to check the quality of application. Protruding bumps are removed in a circular motion a construction float, which should be periodically moistened with water. This will help with quick soaking and better removal of the mixture. To remove depressions, you need to rub a small amount of plaster into these places. The second stage levels the walls as much as possible. Drying time is about 3 hours. |
 | The third stage is the most painstaking. It is necessary to level the wall surfaces with a thin layer until they are as smooth as possible. The plaster should be diluted with a small amount of water to a more liquid state. Work is carried out from top to bottom. The solution is poured onto the walls with a ladle and smoothed in a circular motion until perfectly smooth. Drying time – up to 8 hours. |
 | The grout will give the walls a velvety feel. The surfaces are spilled with water, then a construction trowel should be walked over them. This step can be omitted if tiling or stone cladding is planned in the future. |
 | Excess mortar is removed from the ceiling surface. |
Drying time is several days at average temperature and moderate humidity. At elevated temperatures, all surfaces should be periodically moistened with water to avoid the formation of cracks.
If in the instructions on how to level walls without beacons, some points are not clear, watch the video with an accessible description of the entire technological process:
If the deviations on the base are large enough, plastering should be carried out at additional installation lighthouses. After preliminary preparation and treatment of surfaces with a primer, their installation begins. If work is carried out in rooms with high humidity or with large defects in the foundations, you should secure the mesh for additional reinforcement before leveling the walls along the beacons with your own hands. Video tutorials will help you do the work correctly. It is secured using a mixture or dowels.
The sequence of plastering work is similar to the process without installing beacons. The solution is applied in a dense layer between the beacons with a slight extension beyond them. As a rule, using zigzag movements from below towards the top, the plaster is leveled. The excess is removed with a spatula, the voids are filled with new solution. After passing the entire surface, leveling must be repeated from top to bottom.
At the end of the work, you should check the result using the rule. The protruding parts are rubbed down. After which it is necessary to perform leveling with a liquid mixture. Before work, you can look professional videos plastering on lighthouses for beginners. This will prevent mistakes in repair work.
Placing beacons under plaster can be done in two ways: using plaster mixture or using self-tapping screws. For non-professional craftsmen, it is better to choose the second fastening method. A reliable and fast method proves the advantages of such fastening, including financial ones.
| Photo | Description of work |
|---|---|
 | The level makes vertical markings at a distance less than the length of the rule by 20 centimeters. |
 | Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled for beacons around the perimeter. |
 | Dowels 8x40 mm are driven in with a hammer. |
 | Screws 40-45 mm long for plaster layers up to 30 mm. In areas with a thicker layer, longer fasteners should be used. |
 | The heads of the beacon screws should be aligned with a level along the perimeter. |
 | The fastening elements for the beacons are fixed on the screws. |
 | Attaching beacons around the perimeter. |
 | Work is carried out similarly on the entire surface of the walls. |
 | The wall is checked with a thread for the presence of protrusions. If the base protrudes too much, it can be adjusted by screwing in a screw. |
 | The template checks and aligns all the caps. |
 | All elements and beacons are fixed. |
This method saves time exactly four times. The video below describes the entire installation process quite clearly:
At the end of the work, professionals recommend removing the beacons and sealing the resulting stripes with a solution so that rust does not appear during operation. This is a controversial opinion. If the beacons were purchased from a company trade and they good quality, there is no need to delete it.
A wide variety of solutions puts an unprofessional craftsman in a difficult position. Before choosing the best way to plaster the walls in an apartment, you should study the manufacturer’s instructions for using the compounds. A properly selected mixture will last for decades.
One of the most durable and labor-intensive solutions, on the one hand, and the longest lasting when applied correctly, on the other. The main disadvantage of coverage is the need to perform finishing putty. Plastering walls with cement mortar along the beacons allows you to hide large deviations and surface defects. To correctly complete the entire process, you can preview different videos professional craftsmen who are posted on the Internet.
The cement mixture behaves well indoors at high humidity, for example in the kitchen or bathroom. It does not lose its properties in garages, on plinths, in basements.
Gypsum compositions are only suitable for indoor work. The main advantage of this method is that no additional plastering of surfaces is required. Using a plastic compound, you can level the bases to an ideal state. The negative aspects of leveling walls with gypsum plaster include increased humidity in the premises, for the finishing of which other compositions should be used.
A significant difference from other solutions is the drying time. Literally after 10-15 minutes the solution becomes unusable, so you should calculate the speed of work and do not dilute the mixture in large quantities. Gypsum plaster is convenient for working on ceiling surfaces or corners. You can watch a video master class on leveling ceilings and other bases.
For finishing dry mixtures or ready-made formulations are used. The choice should be made depending on the purpose of the room. For internal ones, you can use cement-based plaster. For internal bases, a gypsum composition is suitable. Polymer is universal mixture, various additives allow it to be used on almost any surface.
To plaster walls for painting, manufacturers offer special compositions with different structures.
| Photo | Type of solution |
|---|---|
 | Structural solution - the composition contains large grains and wood fibers. The final design of surfaces depends on the particle size. |
 | The relief composition is interspersed with marble elements and artificial fibers. |
 | A textured mixture - various additives and a heterogeneous structure; you can apply an application that imitates a bark beetle. |
 | Terrazite composition - glass particles, mica and marble chips. Grains can be up to 6 mm in size. |
 | Flock plaster is a composition with acrylic flakes. The final coating can be treated with a varnish composition. |
For plastering walls under wallpaper perfect alignment you can't achieve it. Texture wallpaper will partially hide minor irregularities. Absolute gloss is important for painting. The process of finishing putty is quite labor-intensive and can take a lot of time and attention. But the result will delight you with its impeccability.
Modern production offers a wide variety of plaster mixtures. Before plastering walls with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics, composition and recommendations for use. Different surfaces require different approaches.
Plastering walls can be done with either cement mortar or gypsum mixture. For outdoor works will do only cement mixture. Since this type of work is carried out on the initial masonry, it must be completed flawlessly, avoiding swelling and defects. It is important to consider the execution time. If construction works were carried out not very long ago, the walls should be given some time to shrink so that cracking does not occur.
If you need to plaster brick walls with a previously applied finish, it should be completely removed. And only after complete cleansing of dust and dirt should you begin repair work. Brick base involves the installation of beacons, since the walls have quite large defects and deviations. All the following works are similar.
To help you learn how to plaster a brick wall with your own hands, you can read: step by step process in the review, watch this video tutorial:
For concrete walls, plastering work should be carried out more carefully. For better adhesion to the previous layer, the plaster should be rubbed in with some force for a more durable connection. Otherwise, the entire application process is no different from performing work on beacons.
The process of plastering wooden walls inside a house is somewhat different from the previous ones. The main difference is that plaster does not adhere to a clean wooden surface. First you need to make a frame from the lathing, which can be from wooden slats or metal mesh.
When installing wooden sheathing or shingles, thin slats with dimensions from 3x15 to 5x20 mm are used. When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the wood; it must have light color. When fastening, the nails are not driven in completely, but to the middle, so that the head can be bent and additionally press the rail.
Advice! To prevent deformation of the shingles, all ends of the planks should be well secured.
Under the sheathing, you can install additional thermal insulation from felt, having previously impregnated it with an antiseptic. The metal mesh is attached in a similar way.
Before plastering a wooden wall, carefully watch the instructional videos. The process is not complicated, but you should know many nuances of the technological sequence. The mixture is applied as usual. You need to be careful when pouring the mortar onto the sheathing; there may be voids behind it. Therefore, work should be performed at an angle of 45° alternately on one side and the other.
Before plastering the foundation of a house with your own hands, you must completely clean all surfaces of dirt, dust and greasy deposits. If concrete base for more than a year now, you can apply notches for better adhesion of the solution. On a brick foundation, use a spatula to clean all the seams from the old mortar.
In the second stage, all surfaces are generously primed, then deep defects are leveled with cement mortar. The same mixture should be used to fill previously cleaned joints in the brickwork.
For reliable adhesion of the mortar to the foundation, you can pre-tension and secure metal mesh. After which you can begin the technological sequence of applying cement mortar. All work must be carried out in warm, dry weather.
Good to know! To improve the quality of the cement mortar, you can add PVA glue, thanks to which the mortar will acquire some plasticity and will be easier to work with.
Now we know all the features and capabilities of plastering walls and can independently carry out the entire process, from rough wall finishing to decoration. The knowledge gained will help you approach the choice of material responsibly and technological process. And additional exercise stress It will only be useful.
Well-plastered walls always look very aesthetically pleasing and neat, but to achieve such results you need to do quite labor-intensive work.
Plastering walls with your own hands can be done if a novice master thoroughly studies how this process is carried out, understands what is needed to carry it out, and understands the basics of the technology of such work.
However, in order to perform high-quality plastering of walls, not only theoretical knowledge is important, but also at least a little practice in this work. Therefore, if you have no experience in plastering “manipulations”, you need to first try your hand at small area walls. By doing this kind of training, you can at least get a little better at sketching and leveling it out.
This experience will be useful not only to owners of private houses, but also to owners of apartments in high-rise buildings, since, unfortunately, even in panel houses walls often need quite serious leveling.
The plaster mixture for finishing walls is selected depending on what the walls of the building are made of. In addition, the conditions where there will be work is being carried out- indoors or outside a building.
Plaster
When applying plaster to foam concrete, reinforcing mesh is required When choosing compositions for leveling walls, you need to approach this issue with all responsibility. This is necessary for comfortable plastering work, for good adhesion of the solutions to the wall and for the quality of the task performed - the longest service life of plastered walls.
It should be noted that construction stores currently offer a very large number of ready-made mixtures on different bases and designed for different surfaces. This is very convenient - when preparing the compositions, you will not need to rack your brains with determining and dosing the proportions of its ingredients, since it will be enough to simply dilute the mixture with water to the consistency indicated on the package.
When choosing or making your own plaster composition, you can use the following tables:
Table 1. Main characteristics of ready-made plaster mixtures
| Index | Standards for brands | Test methods | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Coupling solution LS 10/90 | Leveling solution LS 35/95 | Coupling solution LS 50/50 | Coupling solution LS 65/35 | Finishing mortar Fine Coat LS 50/50 | Termonit putty | Putty for blocks | ||
| Recommended layer thickness in mm | 3÷5 | 5÷15 | 5÷15 | 5÷15 | 3÷10 | 2÷10 | 3÷10 | TU clause 1.2 |
| Recommended water consumption l/25kg | 3.5÷4 | 3.5÷4 | 3.5÷4 | 3.5÷4 | 4÷5 | 5.5÷6 | 6÷7 | TU clause 1.2 |
| Estimated compressive strength in MPa not less than | 16 | 8 | 4 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 20 | GOST 5802-86 |
| Estimated bending strength in MPa not less than | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 3 | GOST 5802-86 |
| Adhesion to base in MPa not less | 0.5 | 0.4 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 1 | 0.5 | GOST 5802-86 |
| Average density of solution kg/m 3 | 1900 | 1900 | 1900 | 1900 | 1900 | 1900 | 1900 | GOST 8735-88 |
| RN | 12÷13 | 12÷13 | 12÷13 | 12÷13 | 12÷13 | 12÷13 | 12÷13 | TU clause 1.2 |
| Wall surface characteristics | Composition of the solution | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Limestone, (with sand, gypsum, cement) | Complex (cement, sand, gypsum, lime) | Cement-sand | Lime-gypsum | |
| In rooms with normal humidity | ||||
| 1:4; 3:1; 2:1 | 1:1:6 | 1:0,3:4* | - | |
| Wooden | - | - | - | 1:1÷1.5÷2÷2.5 |
| For rooms with high humidity and for outdoor use | ||||
| Brick, concrete, stone | - | 1:1:4 | 1:3 | - |
| Wooden | 1:1:6 | 1:4 | - | |
| * Note - 0.3 lime is added to the cement mortar for plasticity. |
||||
| Note: the mobility of the solution should be 60 ÷ 80 mm for mechanized application, 70 ÷ 80 mm for manual application | ||||
Before starting plastering work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures to clean the walls of old finishing materials. This is done so that the plaster fits well and stays on the surface of the wall - everything must be removed from it, down to the base. Walls made of different materials require an individual approach to cleaning them.
If, after cleaning the walls, cracks are found on them, they must be repaired, otherwise the plaster placed on top of them may crack in the same place.
Detected cracks must be repaired, and this process is carried out different ways, depending on the width and prevalence existing defects.
Expansion of cracks on the wall surface... 
... followed by their sealing After the penetrating composition has dried, the crack is sealed with cement or gypsum-based putty using a spatula, level with the wall surface.
After complete polymerization of the foam, its excess, protruding beyond the level of the wall surface, is cut off, and then you can proceed to the next processes according to
To do this, one of the sections of the wall is first tapped with a hammer. Then, through the cracks that have appeared, the plaster that has peeled off from the impacts is picked up with a spatula. If necessary, tap its handle with a hammer, separating layers of plaster from the wall.
It is easier to clean a smooth concrete wall from plaster or whitewash than a brick one, since the plaster on it usually doesn’t stick as well.
Shingles on a wooden wall are an excellent “reinforcement” for plaster To achieve ideal evenness of the wall using plastering, it is necessary to establish guidelines, so-called beacons, which are set according to the building level.
Typically, metal guides are made, which are fixed to the wall using gypsum mortar - it quickly sets and holds the metal profile in the position inwhich it was installed level.
The ideal verticality of the profiles is controlled using a plumb line.
After preparing the walls for applying plaster, you can proceed to preparing the solution.
Preparation of mortar for plaster
The process itself plastering Most often it is carried out in three stages, applying the solution in three layers.
The first layer is a sketch, simply laying on a plastic plaster composition The process can be carried out using a trowel or simply by hand, but in this case you must wear thick rubber gloves.
— The mortar is applied to brick and concrete walls with a thickness slightly higher installed beacons- this is approximately 5 mm.
— On wooden walls with lathing, the thickness should be about 8 ÷ 9 mm.
You can purchase ready-made mixtures for each layer of plaster, which contain all the components that contribute to good adhesion and strength of the hardened mass.
The solution should “diverge” well along the plane of the wall, but not flow down If the solution is made independently, then the following recipes are most often used for their preparation:
There are nuances that must be taken into account before mixing the solution:
Mixing solutions occurs as follows:
Once again I would like to remind you that you need to prepare as much mixture as the master can use in 25 ÷ 30 minutes - If the mixture is made on a gypsum basis, and in 40 ÷ 60 minutes - If on cement.
After the solution is mixed, you must immediately proceed to the first stage of applying plaster to the wall.
Find out the features of the process from our new article.
As mentioned above, most often the work is carried out in three stages. They should be considered in more detail in order to know how to act correctly.
They begin to pour the mortar from the bottom of the wall, gradually working upwards. The thrown piles of plaster rise above the guides by 8 ÷ 10 mm.
The solution, one might say, is splashed onto the wall with a small spread, with an effort to adhere well to the wall.
Having thrown the plaster at a height of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm from the floor, it is leveled using the rule. It is installed on the guides and slowly lifted up, pressing on the mortar and distributing the plaster between the guides with smooth movements to the left and to the right.
Due to the plasticity of the composition, it can be applied using a wide spatula.
The solution is taken from the container using a medium-width spatula and transferred to a wide spatula, and then applied to the wall and distributed over it in an even layer. When applying the mixture, it is necessary to level all the stripes remaining from running the spatula across the surface.
The same layer should hide the visible guide strips.
The finishing layer must be made as smooth as possible, smoothing all stripes and leveling not captured by a spatula places In order not to miss a single flaw on the surface, the wall is illuminated tangentially with a light bulb with the overhead lighting turned off.
Before you decide to buy a large amount of materials for plastering walls, you should probably first buy a few kilograms of ready-made plaster mixture at a hardware store and carry out the whole process on a small section of the wall or on a piece of plywood. If everything goes well, you can move on to large-scale work on the walls of the room.
