It can take place in one or two stages. If the door is installed in new house, in which the doorway does not require preparatory work, then in this case we can immediately proceed to .
Installation work in two stages front door occurs if you have to do additional work to prepare the doorway. Typically, this option is possible when replacing an old entrance door or installing an additional entrance door.
I was convinced of the above in my own example. The doorway in my house is 900mm wide. The first door I installed had a frame width of 860 mm. When I decided to install another, better and more reliable door, it turned out that the width of the door frame was 900 mm.
That is, in principle, the door could be installed, but there was no gap left to align the door, and there was also no gap that could be properly filled polyurethane foam. I had to widen the doorway by 50-55 mm on one side.
After this, it is necessary to once again carry out a control measurement of the doorway, since the recommended distance between its ends and the door frame should be within 20-25 mm.
Using a tape measure, you need to measure the height and width of the doorway. If the gap between the ends of the doorway is less than 20-25 mm, then in this case we will have to do work to expand the doorway. In rare cases, it is necessary to carry out work to reduce the doorway; this is mainly due to the fact that the work of dismantling the old entrance door was not carried out carefully. This may also be a consequence of the fact that when this door was installed, the too wide gaps between the doorway and the door frame were filled cement-sand mixture and during the dismantling work, this layer of DSP was sprinkled.
When reducing a doorway, the principle of action is clear - in wooden house it is necessary to fasten boards or bars to the ends of the doorway, in brick house or in an apartment you can reduce the doorway by performing additional masonry, for example, from sand-lime brick. Brick is used if the reduction in the doorway requires a distance of more than 30 mm on each side.
If, to reduce the width of the doorway, the distance does not exceed 20-25 mm on each side, then in this case a layer of DSP with reinforcing mesh can be applied to the ends of the doorway, which will also allow the ends of the doorway to be aligned.
When expanding a doorway, it is necessary to carry out the work carefully in order to achieve the most even ends and, most importantly, not to get a gap between the door frame and the ends of the opening larger than the recommended dimensions, so that in the future you do not have to do additional work to reduce the doorway. To obtain a high-quality result when expanding a doorway, you must use special tools and fulfill a number of requirements that are provided for during this work.
For example, you can use a chainsaw to widen a doorway in a wooden house. First, we draw a marking line on one edge of the doorway, as shown in photo (A). Next, using a chainsaw, along the marked marking line, we trim the end of the doorway along the entire length, as shown in the photo (A or B).
If it is not possible to trim along the entire height of the opening, then you can make cuts at a distance of about 20-30 mm from each other, as shown in photo (B) and use a chisel (axe) to remove parts of the wood between the cuts. In this case, cuts can be made with a simple hacksaw on wood, without using a chainsaw.
Note:If you widen a doorway in a wooden house by making cuts, then it is desirable that the cuts have the same depth.
When expanding a doorway using a gas-powered saw, it is important to follow safety precautions to avoid injury:
The final stage of any overhaul in the apartment - replacement of interior doors. Interior doors, as a rule, are much cheaper than entrance doors, but to update the interior or completely change the design, you cannot do without replacing them. They are most often changed comprehensively, even if we're talking about about a small one- or two-room apartment.
Depending on what material the doors are made of and what their design is, the installation technology will also depend. Since the question of replacing interior doors has arisen, the choice between types of structures will be inevitable. The right interior door can save space in the apartment, if you give preference not to simple single-leaf swing doors, but to sliding ones, you can also consider installing an accordion door.
The most simple design without glass for interior doors is made from typesetting fabric. Most often, the canvas is made from coniferous species wood and almost all economy class doors are lined with wood-felt boards. Fiberboard can be either profiled or simple, depending on price category. The cheapest doors have a textured surface that can be painted, while more expensive models will already be veneered.
Depending on the price category of the door, it can be equipped with a door frame, hinges and fittings. But most often, even in standard apartments panel houses, it takes a long time to adjust the door to the frame, since the nominal dimensions were not always observed, which is why, before you begin installing the door, you need to prepare the opening.
The floor in the room should already be finished, and the walls should be prepared for finishing, they must be plastered or puttied. Door frame must be installed after all wet Finishing work, otherwise it may lead or warp, especially in the lower part, which can cause unnecessary problems.
The door frame can be sold together with the door leaf, or maybe separately. In the case when the frame is purchased separately, it is very important to pay attention to the thickness of the door leaf and the condition of the racks from which the frame will be assembled. Curvature and cracks are not allowed, and the presence of knots on the elements of the door frame is also undesirable.
You can't ignore the loops. Despite the fact that the hinges on interior doors do not carry much load, it is better to choose detachable and more expensive models. Saving on hinges will add trouble in the future, and if the door is relatively heavy, then it is better to install not two, but three hinges. As a rule, those self-tapping screws that are sold complete with hinges are no good. They are disposable and made of low quality steel. It is better to immediately replace them with proven good self-tapping screws of a suitable configuration.
To install interior doors with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools:
Installation door block begins with marking the box racks. Inner size the frames under the door should be 3-4 mm more sizes the door itself, and the distance from the bottom edge of the door to the floor must be at least 10 mm. The stand is marked, then sawed off at an angle of 45 degrees with a miter saw and hand hacksaw on wood. The assembly diagram is shown in the figure - self-tapping screws or wooden pins are used for assembly. The top strip of the door frame is also cut off according to the same principle - on the lock side and on the hinge side, the gaps should be 4-5 mm.
It is more convenient to embed the hinges and lock when the frame and door are still in your hands, so first you need to measure 20 cm from the top and 21 from the bottom along the edge of the door and along the inside of the post on which the hinges will be attached. The hinge is attached to two self-tapping screws temporarily on the door frame, after which it is traced along the contour with a pencil. The hinge can be removed and a chisel can be used to make a recess in the post. The depth should be such that the loop is completely hidden in thickness.
All that remains is to assemble the door frame and secure it in the doorway. As a rule, interior doors are reinforced with polyurethane foam, but for reliability it is advisable to fix the frame with large screws or anchors to the wall. The box is set strictly according to the level and is fixed temporarily using pieces of drywall, polystyrene foam, boards, after which the free space is filled with foam.
Self-tapping screws for fixing the box to the wall are best placed on the hinge pads and on the pad for fixing the lock. This way the screws will not be visible, and three points are enough for a strong fastening. You can hang the door and foam the space between the frame and the wall. After checking the functionality of the structure, the box is closed with platbands, which can be attached with glue or thin nails.
The structure is installed, all that remains is to lubricate the hinges and decide which lock will be needed for the door. Good luck with the renovation everyone!
You have decided to change the interior doors in your apartment, you have already decided on the color, model, manufacturer and even the door store where you will order them. However, before starting work on installing interior doors, there is a very important stage for dismantling old ones and preparing doorways.
1. Depending on the size of the door leaf new door, necessary determine the size of the opening . For many doors Russian manufacturers(such as Volkhovets, Ulyanovsk doors, Varador, Ocean, Leader, OSB, Pokrovsky doors and others) the sizes presented in the following table are suitable:
(Attention! Measurements of the height of the doorway are made from the finished floor, that is, from the already laid flooring!)
|
Door leaf dimensions Width x Height (mm) |
Opening dimensions |
|
|
Width (mm) |
Height (mm) |
|
|
From 630 to 660 |
From 1950 to 1970 |
|
|
From 680 to 710 |
From 1950 to 1970 |
|
|
From 680 to 710 |
From 2050 to 2070 |
|
|
From 780 to 810 |
From 2050 to 2070 |
|
|
From 880 to 910 |
From 2050 to 2070 |
|
|
From 980 to 1010 |
From 2050 to 2070 |
|
2.
Eliminating shortcomings
doorway. If the doorway was damaged when dismantling the old door, it must be restored and plastered. It is important to take into account following features:
Height (H) doorway should be the same across the entire width: the floor should not have differences, and top part the opening must be horizontal and parallel to the floor.
· Width (W) doorway should be the same along the entire length: the left and right side parts of the opening should be parallel to each other, and at the junction with the floor and the upper part of the opening they should form a right angle equal to 90 degrees.
Thickness (T) The walls should be the same throughout the opening, without narrowing or widening.
By dismantling the door and preparing the doorway on your own, you can save some money. But in order for the new door to be installed correctly and delight you with its appearance for many years, it is necessary to carry out the preparatory work very well. Therefore, we recommend that you carry out dismantling work by specialists. Tiffani company, Moreover, our employees have extensive experience in this area and have all the tools necessary for the work.
Trust the experts, save your time, because it is known that time is also money.
Home renovations will look unfinished without installing an interior element such as doors. They protect the living space from outside negative factors, promote warmth and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Common at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, and have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and jewelry precise work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite possible for anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.
To perform the work you will need a certain tool:
Materials for door installation:
Plastered and prepared door slopes
Before installing the door, you should prepare the installation site. If there old door, then dismantle it. To do this, using a crowbar, avoiding strong and sudden movements, first remove the platbands. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. Using the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame; to facilitate the process, we file the frame in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often in houses the door frame was cemented. And to remove it, you will have to break the cement with a hammer.
To facilitate door installation, the slopes can be leveled and plastered. To complete the preparation, we clear the doorway of construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, you can immediately begin measuring it.
To purchase the right door, you will need the height and width dimensions, as well as the dimensions of the doorway slopes. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and select smallest size.
We lay the flooring for correct installation boxes
Important! When taking dimensions, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. It is recommended to install doors after laying the floor covering; if this has not yet been installed, then the dimensions should include the height of the floor covering and the gap between the floor and the door. For a more visual measurement, you can place parts of the flooring in the doorway. This is necessary to know the exact level of the floor; the free movement of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.
Now that the old doors have been dismantled, dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and plastered, you can order the doors. As a rule, doors have standard sizes, but if necessary you can do individual order based on the size of the doorway.
To choose the right the right doors, you need to know their types and intended purpose. For installation in a house, you should pay attention to entrance, interior and, if necessary, kitchen doors.
We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - lining and internal filling. The strength structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and inner space is filled in.
There are several door designs - solid, paneled and smooth.
Smooth doors , they are also panel doors, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and cladding method. The most practical and affordable are doors covered with laminate. Painted doors can be either cheap or expensive. It all depends on the type of material and painting method. The most expensive doors are lined natural veneer.
Paneled doors stand out for their open design and the presence of drawings, patterned carvings and stained glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from solid solid wood or combined materials. Prices for panel doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most accessible ones are made from soft types of wood, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).
Solid wood doors made from valuable wood. This affects primarily their price and weight; they are quite high. The doors are coated with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.
Having selected the necessary doors and received them, we proceed to step-by-step installation doors.
After the purchase, we unpack the door leaf, trim, door frame, extensions, and fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. As long as the lock, hinges or other door fittings are not cut in, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.
Installing the door leaf on the floor for ease of cutting with a milling cutter
Lock hole
Before assembling the door frame, you should mark and select with a milling cutter or chisel the place where the hinges and lock will be attached to the door leaf and the vertical post. To do this, we install the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special stands. To avoid damaging the canvas, inner side the stands are upholstered in fabric. We apply the lock and use a pencil to mark the location of its installation. To make it convenient to use the lock, install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, measure 200 mm from the bottom and top edges of the door. We attach the loops and mark the place for milling. By using hand cutter or chisels, we select the excess so that the hinges and lock lie flush. We put them back and use a drill to drill holes for the screws.
Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place where the hinges are attached and the place for the lock tongue and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. We attach the hinges and drill holes for the screws.
Important! After cutting with a milling cutter or chisel, the places for the lock and hinges must be treated with varnish. In this simple way the tree will be protected from the influence of moisture. It should be remembered that the input and heavy doors are attached on three hinges, and for interior ones two hinges will be enough.
When the locations for the lock and hinges have been selected with a milling cutter, you can begin installing them.
With loops things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.
Mortise lock
Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to fit correctly, it is applied to the side of the door and holes for handles, shutoff valves and fastenings are marked as if using a stencil. Using a cutter or chisel, select the location for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and screw it on.
Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door frame. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.
When starting to assemble the door frame, we measure the height of the vertical posts and trim them using a miter box. Horizontal bars made to fit the size of the door leaf.
Since assembling the box requires a large amount of free space, the assembly process itself is carried out on the floor. To avoid accidentally damaging the door frame on the floor, we place two or three wooden slats along the entire length of the door leaf.
We attach the horizontal crossbar to the posts. The connection points can be lightly tapped with a hammer for a better connection, and using a screwdriver we fix the box by screwing the screws into corner connections.
Important! There are doors with a ready-made door frame. Installation of such doors is very simple. IN in this case the door frame is simply adjusted to the doorway and secured in it.
If the door width is several centimeters smaller door slope, extras should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make the slopes, and chips and dirt will appear on them over time. Therefore, installing extensions in such cases is the best way out of the situation.
As extensions, planks of the same color as the door, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm, are used. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges that coincide with the edges of the wall.
Installation of the accessory is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected in the door frame, depending on the thickness of the trim strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical trim strips to the height of the box, as well as the horizontal trim strip. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then install the trim strips into the trimmed quarters. We attach the planks themselves to the slope using dowels and self-tapping screws.
Having completed the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.
Fixing the door frame with wedges from above
We place the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each post and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the level of inclination by lightly hitting the wedges. Now you can secure the box. To do this, use a drill or hammer drill to drill holes in the rack and wall. All that remains is to install the dowels and screw the box with self-tapping screws.
Important! It is better to make the wedges from wood of the same density as the door frame.
After installing the frame, we begin hanging the door. First of all, we screw the loops onto the previously prepared places. For this purpose, so-called card (plate) detachable hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in the hinge are usually used. There are also one-piece hinges, but they are used less frequently. In the case of a rod embedded in the hinge, the door leaf can be installed or removed simply by carefully lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow the doors to be raised, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, simply attach them to the frame and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove a door leaf from hinges with a removable pin, you need to remove the pin from the hinge and then insert it back.
Now that the hinges are hung, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors suspended, and the second secures the permanent hinges using self-tapping screws or guides them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.
Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.
We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with polyurethane foam, thereby increasing the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to work with and can be easily applied to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.
Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, you should protect the door frame from foam that accidentally gets on it. To protect the box, it is covered with film or masking tape. If foam does get on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-containing solution or solvent. But hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and abrasions.
Polyurethane foam has the property of increasing in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between the vertical posts or thick cardboard is placed between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Before you start filling the foam container, shake it thoroughly for a minute. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and outside the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.
To ensure against deformation and distortion of the door frame, it is better to apply polyurethane foam in two stages. During the first pass, the foam is applied pointwise. After allowing the foam to harden, after 1-3 hours you can fill the remaining voids. We cut off the excess polyurethane foam after it has completely hardened.
Important! If the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the tube of the polyurethane foam sprayer can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, to fill all the voids efficiently.
If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we fill in the free space suitable material(wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.
The vertical gap should be filled with foam, starting from the bottom and gradually moving up. Thus, the foam will create its own support. If there are extensions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.
At the final stage of door installation, the installation of platbands is performed. First, we cut the platband in height, then we cut the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same 45-degree trim for the horizontal casing at both ends. For these operations we use a miter box. You can secure the platband using small nails or universal mounting adhesive.
Applying glue to the platband
Installing a platband on a door frame
In order not to make a mistake in the size of the doorway and to choose the right interior door, it is necessary to dismantle the old structure and also prepare it for the installation of a new door. This is a simple process and you can do it yourself.
For quality performance of all preparatory activities You need to prepare the following tools:
Before preparing the doorway for door installation, you need to take into account that it does not always correspond to the chosen design. You may need additional building materials - drywall, bricks, putty and plaster. If, on the contrary, you have to increase the opening, then you need to have a grinder with a durable metal disk for cutting out the wall.
To prevent deformation of the box during operation, work on preparing the opening must be done carefully.
The following should be avoided:
The more carefully the dismantling and preparation of the doorway for installation is carried out interior door, the longer the product will last.
Dismantling an old structure is a dusty job, so the furniture must be covered with construction film.
Dismantling procedure:
This is a method for very old structures that have served for more than 30 - 40 years. It is much easier to dismantle new models that are attached with screws.
With the old installation method, traces of cement and plaster remain on the side parts of the opening. They are cleaned until flat surface. If construction material houses - clay and brick, then this is also removed so that it does not crumble, and the opening is strengthened with concrete mortar or sheets of plasterboard. Only after completion of the work can you take measurements and select a new interior door.
When the opening is ready, it is measured. The door frame should be 6-8 cm smaller in height and width. This distance is left for arranging the platbands and strengthening them with polyurethane foam. The thickness of the walls may not correspond to the thickness of the box. The model you like is expanded.
Measurements are taken in 3-4 places in height. If they do not match, you need to use a level. If you attach it from below, it will become clear what to do - build up or cut down the wall. The same goes for the top. The opening angles must be strictly 90 degrees.
Extension is performed:
Carefully seal all cracks in the plaster and prepare for installation of the box.
Depends on the preparatory work appearance walls, as well as the service life of the new structure. You shouldn’t rush with installation - it’s better to measure everything again and take it into account. If the work causes difficulties, you can contact a professional craftsman for advice or help.
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