Today, electric heated floors have become very popular. To control these room heating systems, you need a thermostat, the connection diagram of which is quite simple. Even a novice home craftsman can do this work on his own. However, it is worth understanding the operating principle of temperature sensors and their types. This will help you choose the right device to solve specific problems.
Before choosing a thermostat, you need to study what they are.
Most often, temperature sensors operate cyclically, and at the same time, an electrical circuit opens and closes. As the temperature increases, the resistance of the internal thermostat sensor drops. As soon as the specified parameter is reached, the device is triggered and turns off the circuit. As the temperature decreases, the reverse process occurs - the resistance increases, and as a result, the thermostat turns on the electrical circuit.
Using a temperature sensor, you can easily control the indoor climate. You just need to set the desired temperature in the apartment, after which the device will do everything on its own. Now on the market there are infrared heated floors, which are capable of heating not only the air, but also surrounding objects. For the system to operate in automatic mode, a thermostat must be connected to it.
In this video you will learn how to connect a thermostat:
All modern thermostats work on the same principle. However, there are quite a lot of differences between them that affect the device settings, control and connection diagram of the temperature sensor.
Mechanical thermostats are characterized by ease of operation and high reliability. They are a plastic box equipped with a lever to control the room temperature. To simplify the setup process, the devices have a scale with divisions, the standard step of which is 1 degree.
If previously mechanical thermostats were often used to control electric heated floors, then they are not very well suited for working with infrared heating systems. However, if desired, they can be connected quite easily. Although many people prefer electronic devices, mechanical ones continue to be used. This is due to the simplicity of their design, as well as their long service life.
The peculiarity of electronic temperature sensors is the presence of a display to display all the information important for setting. If a mechanical thermostat does not require electricity to operate, then an electronic one must be connected to the network. The control panel, depending on the model, can be touch-sensitive or push-button. Some devices provide the ability to program the temperature for a certain period of time, for example, a week.
Advanced models can even be controlled using a smartphone if the appropriate application has been installed on it. Electronic temperature sensors have gained popularity primarily due to their ease of use. However, their cost is higher compared to mechanical devices.
To increase the service life of the electronic temperature sensor, it is not recommended to install it in draft areas or in places where there is active exposure to direct sunlight. Thanks to a simple thermostat connection diagram, almost any home DIYer can handle this job. However, first you need to decide on the connection method:
Both options are worth considering in detail.
One of important parameters any thermostat is a power indicator. One device can be used to control several room heating devices. The number of heating devices that can be connected to it depends on the power of the thermostat. At home, it is quite enough to use devices with a power of no more than 3 kW.
There are 2 ways to connect these sensors Most often thermostats have four contacts- two for entry and exit. To connect the device, you need to stretch two conductors from the junction box and connect them to the input terminals. After this, the output contacts are connected to the heating system using two other wires.
If there is a need to connect two heating devices, then you need to decide on the type of connection:
In the first case, it is necessary to stretch two conductors from the output terminals of the thermostat to the first heater, and two more from it to the next one. When connected in parallel, four conductors should be drawn from the input contacts of the temperature sensor - two for each heating device.
This is the connection diagram mechanical thermostat most often used to control multiple heaters. A magnetic starter is an electromagnetic type switching device. It is designed for use in networks with high loads. There are quite a few options for connecting a thermostat via a magnetic starter, but home handyman it is enough to know only one.
At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to connect the regulator to the electrical network using two conductors, using the input terminals for this. Then the output contacts of the temperature sensor are connected to the starter, and it is already connected to the heater.
If everything was done correctly, then all that remains is to configure the regulator to the desired operating mode. Connecting the thermostat should not be difficult if you follow the instructions. However, you should not overestimate your strength, because the safety of family members depends on the quality of the connection.
So I became the proud owner gas boiler, which I just have to connect to the thermostat. Of course, I could call a specialist and pay for his work, but this is not in my rules; I decided to connect the room thermostat to the gas boiler with my own hands. The article describes several ways to do this.
Installers advise installing thermostats in living rooms. Their installation in the kitchen, hallway or boiler room leads to system disorientation and false alarms. It is recommended to choose the coolest room or where there is greatest number of people.
No heat sources - radiators or heaters - should be located near the thermostat. The device should not be exposed to direct sunlight. It is necessary to avoid placing the thermostat in a draft. It is also undesirable to be adjacent to electrical appliances emitting thermal noise.
The boiler is turned on and off by a special relay. The thermostat is connected using a terminal on the boiler at a specified location or via a thermostat cable. The programmer requires batteries to operate.
Before connecting the room thermostat, you need to read the instructions, which are located in the technical data sheet of the device. Usually the passport has a separate section dedicated to connecting the thermostat.
The apartment has an autonomous gas boiler Baxi MAIN Four 240 F, which in itself is not bad, but also has a good reserve for improvement.
The main problem is that the boiler turns on in heating mode every few minutes, whether it is necessary or not, and heats the water in the radiators to the set temperature, whether it is too much or not. In other words, very often it works in vain. The first problem is solved room thermostat, second street sensor temperature. And I will tell you how to kill two birds with one stone.
We will need a thermostat, a wire, and straight hands.
We turn off the boiler with the button and turn off the power to the boiler.
We unscrew the two screws securing the front cover of the boiler from the bottom, remove it “towards you - upwards”, unscrew the screw fixing the control panel and turn it, unscrew the screw of the terminal box (I removed the entire back cover, it’s more convenient) and screw in our wires
We turn on the power to the boiler - in OFF mode the display now shows the outside air temperature.
We turn on the boiler - in operating mode, when adjusting the temperature of the battery, the display shows the temperature curve - you need to select it so that the temperature of the batteries matches the temperature outside. This is done empirically and this is exactly what I have been doing for the second day.
The method, as I understand it, is applicable to many similar boilers.
They have long ceased to be some kind of curiosity. Many owners of houses and apartments are increasingly resorting to this method of heating rooms, planning to use it in conjunction with classical system heating or even instead of it. There are many advantages - cost-effectiveness, special comfort, and optimal heat distribution throughout the room.
If we compare the two main types " heated floors", and, then the second is much simpler and cheaper to set up, easier to set up and operate. Scares many people away high price electricity. But this criterion is quite conditional if the apartment or house is well insulated and the operation of the heating system is properly organized. The control function of the electric “warm floor” is assigned to special device– thermostat. He is mandatory element system, and the level of created comfort and economical operation.
Installing such a “brain” of the system is not so difficult task. Let's figure out how to connect a heated floor to a thermostat.
Just a few words about the importance of a high-quality, correctly functioning electric floor heating control system.
Such a heating system cannot simply be plugged into the network and operated according to the principle “the warmer the better.” The surface heating temperature is always strictly limited, and usually does not exceed a maximum of +27 degrees in residential areas. It may be slightly higher in bathrooms and showers, in corridors or hallways, but also within +30÷33 degrees. And why?
Not only that, the total consumption even in such a continuous operating mode is very insignificant. Savings are also achieved by fine-tuning modes. That is, heating will be carried out exactly when it is really needed.
All these control functions are performed by a special device - a thermostat.
Thermostats are compact devices designed for installation in a standard socket box (built-in models) or directly on the wall (overhead). To operate in underfloor heating systems, they must be equipped with a temperature sensor with a signal cable. Many thermostats also have a built-in temperature sensor that monitors the air temperature in the room. Such models are usually used in cases where the system electric heating becomes the main source of heat. But they always provide for the possibility of connecting an external temperature sensor and using the “floor” operating mode.
warm floor
The entire variety of modern thermostats can be divided into three groups:
All controls for such devices are usually limited to a power key and a setting wheel with a printed temperature scale. A simple indication is provided - an LED indicating whether the power to the heating elements is currently turned on.
The advantages of such devices are simplicity and affordable price. But insertion accuracy temperature regime may be “lame” - however, this is quickly resolved by the user on an intuitive level. And the second drawback, more important, can be considered the lack of ability to program operating modes. That is, significant savings in energy consumption cannot be achieved with an electromechanical thermostat.
Such devices are certainly more convenient to use, but their functionality is not much different from electromechanical ones. Neither programming capabilities nor non-volatile memory are provided. Apparently, this circumstance limits their popularity. They are already much more expensive than their electromechanical “brothers”. But achieving real savings in energy consumption with them is also not possible.
For example, the floor warms up in the morning when the owners get up and remains in this state until they leave for work (study). During the day, the system will simply maintain the minimum required temperature value - there is no need to waste energy. But by the time residents arrive home, the most comfortable conditions will again be created.
Several such cycles can be programmed during the day. And taking into account your work schedule, enter in advance the days off when the heating modes will be different. There is always an opportunity to adjust the given settings if certain changes have occurred in the family’s way of life. Or simply - temporarily switch to manual mode. And the programmed modes will be saved in the device’s memory, and you can return to them at any time.
Modern models, in addition, can be equipped remote control from the remote control, or even remotely, via Internet or GSM communication channels.
Most of the models on sale are designed to control a “warm floor” system in one room. But if conditions permit, you can purchase a two-channel device. It is capable of independently controlling heating in adjacent rooms. It is equipped with two remote temperature sensors, and its terminals allow you to connect two heating circuits from one power supply line.
You can also add that in addition to built-in and surface-mounted devices, thermostats with DIN rail installation are also produced.
thermostat for heated floors
But this is not particularly convenient for use in an apartment or house. Unless - there is no need to pull the power line to the location of the thermostat - it is already in the distribution cabinet. But more problems with laying a signal cable from the temperature sensor and “cold ends” from heating cable or swearing. So the winnings are doubtful. And all room regulators have enough neat design. So they won’t spoil the interior - they fit perfectly, for example, into groups or switches.
I place this device on the wall in a place convenient for the user - so that setting modes and visual control does not cause difficulties. True, there are several rules and recommendations that should be followed:
For a built-in thermostat (position 1 in the diagram), a socket is cut out in the wall for a regular socket box with a diameter of 68 mm. True, most craftsmen recommend using not a standard socket box with a depth of 45 mm, but with an increased depth of 60 mm. This is so that the thermostat housing and all groups of wires connected to the terminals fit into it without any problems.
A dedicated power line must be installed in this socket box, taking into account the power of the planned load. As a rule, for electric “warm floors” a cable with a core cross-section of 2.5 mm² is sufficient, which can easily withstand a load of up to 3.5 kW. The line must be protected in a 16 amp distribution panel. (This means, of course, copper wires- aluminum for home use has long been “outlawed”).
A groove is cut from the socket box vertically to the floor (item 2). It will house the “cold ends” connected through couplings (item 3) with a heating cable or mats, and a temperature sensor cable. The depth and width of the grooves are usually made such that two corrugated tubes with a diameter of 10 mm fit in it. One of them will house power wires - “cold ends”, simply for safety reasons. And the second tube is intended for the temperature sensor, and it goes from the wall to the floor (item 4) right up to the point of its installation.
This installation is explained by the fact that temperature sensors fail from time to time. And in order to be able to replace it, it is placed in the pipe. Its cable is quite rigid, and it can be pushed to a considerable length in this channel.
On the floor, the tube with the temperature sensor is located openly if you plan to pour a screed with a thickness of 35÷50 mm. It turns out that the sensor will control the heating temperature of this concrete monolith, which plays the role of an effective heat accumulator. In cases where tiles will be laid directly on the heating mat (some types of systems require this installation method), a groove is cut into the floor surface.
Corrugated tubes are not used only with film electric “warm floors”. There is no screed involved, that is, a failed sensor can be replaced by dismantling a section of the floor covering. Yes, and taking temperature readings here is done a little differently - directly from the heating element. This will be dismantled below.
The end of the corrugated tube, so that the solution does not get into it while pouring the screed, is plugged with a plug (item 5). The plug may be included in the kit, or it can be made independently, for example, from several layers of waterproof tape.
The illustration below shows a thermostat kit. In addition to the temperature sensor, it includes not only a piece of corrugated pipe, but also a plug for it.
Moreover, pay attention to one interesting nuance. The manufacturer completes the set with a brass plug. It is into this that the head of the temperature sensor, that is, the temperature-sensitive element itself, should fit. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, the readings taken by the sensor are more correct in this case.
Any thermostat, if it was purchased in a store, is accompanied by detailed instructions by connecting it. But you can easily figure out the switching of wires at the terminals of the device yourself, focusing on the markings of the contacts. Despite the wide variety of models, most retain approximately the same layout. So we can look at it with an example.
By the way, before installation it is never a bad idea to check with an ohmmeter whether the specified resistance corresponds to the real one. If there is a coincidence (± 5-10%), then the sensor is working properly and can be safely reinstalled. If the resulting value is clearly different, this may indicate a sensor malfunction. And it’s better to replace it right away so you don’t have to deal with it later.
So, there is no wisdom, everything is simple. But when making switching, special care is still required.
A common mistake made by inexperienced users is that the power wires are installed at the load connection terminals. After applying voltage, the thermostat with a probability close to 100% will fail.
Before connecting, it never hurts to once again check the instructions and the printed symbols. The fact is that some models of thermostats have a different order of terminals. In particular, first two zeros, power supply and load are located nearby, and then two phase contacts in the same order. And if you apply the “stereotypical” connection diagram shown above, this will mean a guaranteed short circuit.
Where should I put the ground wire?
It is not common, but there are models of thermostats in which a separate terminal is allocated for connecting the ground wire and the shielding braid of the heating cable.
But more often they act differently. The green-yellow conductor of the power cable is connected to the shielding braid through a terminal or crimp sleeve directly to each other, directly. And this connection is placed in the space of the socket box.
IN modern models thermostats, for example, with remote and remote control, may have additional terminals for connecting communication channels or other devices. This option is not considered, as it is somewhat beyond the scope of our article. In such a case, you should strictly follow the attached instructions. Or, if there is no experience with such robots, it is better to invite a specialist.
This section of the article examines three examples, each of which has its own characteristics.
This example was chosen because such a thermostat is perhaps the most popular model. When installing it, there are a number of nuances that you should know in advance. A trial switching is shown to check the functionality of the device, that is, for now without permanent installation in the socket box. But the operation of the thermostat is well and very clearly demonstrated.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | So, a very popular model due to its cost (less than 1000 rubles) and sufficient reliability and unpretentiousness is RTC 70.26. A test connection and functional check will be carried out. The role of the connected load will be an incandescent lamp (standing on the table). |
 | Rear view - on the body there are terminals for connecting pairs of wires. The mounting frame with arc-shaped slots is clearly visible - for mounting the thermostat in a standard socket box. |
 | A feature of this model, and a very inconvenient one, is that before disassembling the thermostat, you must remove the installation wheel. You have to pry it off with a screwdriver and move it progressively upward along the axis. |
 | Hidden under the wheel is a screw that secures the cover to the device body. It is shown in the photo with a screwdriver. There is no need to touch the right screw - it is just a wheel rotation limiter. |
 | After unscrewing the screw, the cover is carefully removed with a progressive upward movement. |
 | This is the nuance. The wheel rotates on a plastic axis, which, after removing the cover, is very easily removed from its socket. You need to be careful because: - the axle can be broken by careless movement; - such small details have harmful property fall out and roll into the most inaccessible places, so that they are not easy to find later. So it’s better to carefully pull it out yourself and put it in a safe place. |
 | Frame with mounting holes. Naturally, during actual installation, one should be installed first - all the wires will pass through its window... |
 | ...and then the thermostat itself will be placed on top of it. As you can clearly see, their mounting holes coincide. |
 | Let's move on to switching. First you need to loosen the screws in all the terminals that will be used. When working with terminals, use a screwdriver with a narrow (3 mm) blade so as not to damage the plastic edges of the round sockets. |
 | The power line wires are connected to terminals 1 and 2. It is important not to forget to comply correct location zero and phase - this is indicated on the housing near each of the terminals. In this case, just to test the thermostat, connect a piece of cable with a power plug, which will be plugged into the socket during testing. |
 | Wires going to the load are connected to terminals 3 and 4. Instead of a heated floor circuit, an incandescent lamp will be used for the test. |
 | Finally, the ends of the temperature sensor signal cable are installed and clamped into terminals 6 and 7. Their relative position does not matter. |
 | The connection is complete. Please note that the wires suitable for the terminals may be multi-wire, and it is not advisable to directly clamp their stripped ends, since the contact may be initially unreliable and may weaken over time. All such wires are immediately put into terminal lugs and crimped. An exception is the copper wires of the power line, if they are single-core. But if stranded wire is used there too (for example, PVA 3x2.5), then lugs are definitely needed. |
 | Let's imagine that the thermostat is connected, installed in a socket box, and needs to be assembled. |
 | First, the plastic axle is carefully inserted into its socket. You need to feel that its lower slot fits into the existing connection on the board. |
 | After this, the top cover is put on. The switch key should fit into its window, the axle should go through the hole. |
 | Next, the cover is secured with a screw. The plastic is quite fragile, so you should not try to tighten the screw tightly - this can cause a crack or even a break under the head. |
 | Carefully place it on the axle and push the temperature setting wheel all the way down. You can immediately check that it is installed correctly - the mark printed on it should move within the range of the printed scale. |
 | Everything is ready for testing. The power wires are connected to the network. The start key switches to the upper position - “on”. |
 | Nothing happens - there is no power to the load. But this is because the temperature on the regulator is currently set at only 10 degrees, and in the room it is clearly higher. It is clear that the temperature sensor does not give a command to turn on. |
 | Let's try to move the regulator to the 30 degree mark. Yes, the light came on, that is, the thermostat turned on power to the load, which is what it was supposed to do! |
 | Let's begin to gradually reduce the value of the set temperature on the regulator. When a level is reached lower than the actual temperature in the room, the thermostat will turn off - no heating is required. It is obvious that the device is working correctly. |
You can slightly modify the experiment. Set the heating level to 30 degrees, and then hold the head of the temperature sensor in your palm. Since the human body temperature is higher, when the heating level reaches more than 30 degrees, the thermostat must turn off the power.
But all this was shown more for a better understanding of the principle of connection and operation of the thermostat. Now we need to look at the process of installing this device, as they say, locally.
film heated floor
This example shows the process of connecting and installing a thermostat for an electric cable “warm floor”. The heating elements have been laid and screeded for a long time. The walls of the room have even been finished. The socket box is built in, and all the cables and wires necessary for connection are brought into it.
Naturally, before starting work, you should check again whether the power supply to the warm floor power line - the machine must be turned off.
An electronic “DEVIreg Touch” thermostat is used, the removable cover of which is also a touch digital display. It is attached to the case with latches, simultaneously connecting with it through the existing connector.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | The socket box opens if it was covered during finishing. The wires are routed out. So, there are three types of wires - a copper monocore VVG 3×2.5 power cable, a two-core heating cable in a shielded braid, and a temperature sensor signal cable. |
 | All wires are cut so that they extend from the socket box beyond the wall level by 80÷100 mm - this is enough. |
 | To begin with, it is best to immediately deal with grounding. It is necessary to connect the green-yellow wire of the power cable with the copper shielding braid of the heating cable. The connection will be made using the “Wago” terminal. Since the braid consists of many thin wires, for a quality connection in the terminal it must be tinned. |
 | The end of the braid is carefully twisted tightly, treated with flux, and then covered with a thin layer of solder. |
 | The green/yellow ground wire end of the power cable is stripped. It's best to do this special tool– insulation stripper. |
 | Then both prepared conductors are alternately inserted and clamped into the “Wago” terminal. |
 | After this, the wires are carefully bent, and this connecting node is put away in the socket. |
 | The terminal should be located at the very bottom of the socket box. As already mentioned, for a thermostat it is better to use an increased depth socket box. The grounding connection is complete. |
 | The remaining wires are being prepared for connection. Their ends are stripped of insulation, approximately 8÷10 mm. |
 | Since the “cold ends” of the heating cable have a multi-wire structure, for a high-quality connection in the screw terminals of the thermostat, they should be “dressed” with crimp lugs. |
 | The single-core wires of the VVG power cable will fit perfectly into the terminal without any lugs. Thermal sensor wires may have terminal lugs installed at the factory. However, just here there is practically no load, so you can get by with tinning the ends - that will be enough. If there are tips required diameter– you can put them. The main thing is that the end of the wires is not fluffy, so that good contact is ensured. |
 | If all the wires are prepared, you can proceed to their connections. The order in which the pairs are connected does not matter. In this example, the wizard began by connecting the temperature sensor cable. As stated earlier, mutual arrangement Thermal sensor wires in terminals (NTS) are not regulated. The wires are inserted into the terminals and tightened with screws. By applying a pulling force, the reliability of their fixation is checked. |
 | Next, the “cold ends” of the heating cable, dressed in lugs, are inserted into the terminals and then tightened. Here the color marking of the conductors is already observed. Please note: this is exactly the example shown when the power and heating cable wires are installed “in a cross” - two phases side by side, and then two zeros. It is important to pay very close attention to this, focusing on the markings. |
 | After this, the power wires are inserted into their terminals and clamped, also in strict accordance with color coded and marked symbols. |
 | All wires are connected. To be sure, you can go through it again and check the quality of tightening of the contacts on all terminals. |
 | Now the thermostat housing needs to be carefully inserted into the socket box. To avoid interfering with the wires, which have quite significant rigidity, proceed as follows. First, take the device as shown in the illustration. |
 | Then carefully turn it upward so that all the wires below receive the first uniform bend. |
 | After that index fingers press the wires on both sides to the back of the thermostat housing... |
 | ...and the device itself is turned a little backwards. |
 | The result should be a zigzag bend of all the wires... |
 | ...and the thermostat will easily fit into the socket box. |
 | If necessary, it is leveled horizontally using a building level... |
 | ...and then fixed to the socket box with self-tapping screws. Craftsmen recommend using not the self-tapping screws that come with the kit, but slightly longer ones, 25 or 30 mm - this will be more reliable. After installing the screws, check the evenness of the installation again - and then tighten them completely. |
 | That's it, the device body is installed, all that remains is to attach the front touch panel to it. There are no difficulties here - it is installed in place and carefully slides forward until the latches engage. |
 | That's it, the thermostat is installed. If conditions permit, you can turn on the power and conduct a test run of the “warm floor” system. Well, then – setting up and programming the device, in accordance with the instruction manual attached to it. |
It can be added that the start-up of the “warm floor” system, if the heaters are covered with a screed, can only be done after it has fully gained strength. It is completely unacceptable to “stimulate” the hardening and maturation of concrete by turning on the heating. And even after the screed and floor covering are completely ready, the start-up is still not carried out at the same time at the design power. It is necessary to start, for example, by heating to 15 degrees, and then daily increase the temperature by 5 degrees until the planned mode is achieved. This ensures the smoothest possible adaptation of all components of the “warm floor cake” to normal operation at elevated temperatures.
Finally, in the third example, the connection of the thermostat to a floor heating system with infrared film elements is dismantled. There are differences in the installation of the temperature sensor, and the thermostat itself will be installed not on a solid wall, but on a rigid cladding (MDF lining).
The example shows personal experience the work of the author of this article.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | For the heated floor in this example, 3 were purchased linear meters film heater "Teplonog" made in South Korea. Specific power – 220 W/m². that is, with a film width of 500 mm, the total maximum power of the entire floor surface heating system will be only 330 W. Laying will be carried out in small room private house. The room is a former children's room. The former because my daughter has grown to student age. |
 | In this case, nothing more is required. “Warm floor” is created solely to increase the level of comfort, and not to replace the existing water heating system. It is planned to place the heaters in two lines. The longer, two-meter one (item 4) covers the area from front door through the center of the room to desk(item 2). The second, meter-long section (item 3) will be located along the bed (item 1). After installing the heating system, the floor will be covered with laminate. |
 | A power cable was installed from a dedicated machine located in an adjacent room. I had to break through the wall and remove some of the cladding to get the wires through. It was decided to leave the high shelf on the left wall - it is behind its lining made of MDF lining that the power wire will pass, and the thermostat with a parallel-connected socket will be located in the area shown by the blue arrow. Film heaters do not require connection to grounding, so PVS 2×1.5 wires are used. With such a low power of the heaters and considering that the outlet is intended for charging gadgets, this is quite enough. For the future installation of a thermostat and socket, two have been temporarily removed here cladding panels– after a small alteration, windows will be cut out in them for installing socket boxes. |
 | The floor surface, carefully leveled with OSB sheets, is covered with a foil-coated polyethylene foam backing. All joints are taped with foil tape. The illustration clearly shows the area where the thermostat will be installed. The cladding panels have been shortened - a small niche-shelf will be installed there. Windows are cut out in the panels and socket boxes are installed (as for drywall - with presser feet at the back). The socket is immediately installed and connected to the power cable. From it comes a piece of cable that will be connected to the thermostat. The installation height of the socket boxes in this case was 450 mm, with an acceptable minimum of 400 mm. A small arched window is cut out under the panel with the socket (shown by the arrow) - the wires of the “warm floor” and the temperature sensor will pass through it. |
 | Switching of heating film elements will be carried out according to the following scheme: 1 – temperature sensor; 2 – points of connection to the busbars of phase wires; 3 – connection points for neutral wires; 4 – points of insulation of the remaining unused cut ends of the buses. All the wires do not intersect anywhere and converge at one point - they must pass through the cut out arched window. |
 | The heating film is cut into two fragments, which are placed in their designated places. The “copper” side of the tires should face down. |
 | Along the long edges, the heaters are fixed to the floor surface with strips of construction tape. |
 | First of all, the cut ends of the busbars, which will not be used in switching, are insulated. For this purpose, special rubber-bitumen-based linings are used, which came complete with the film. On one side, the protective paper backing is removed... |
 | ...then the insulating pad is glued to the bottom of the busbar... |
 | ...bends and squeezes tightly. And so on at all four points in accordance with the diagram. |
 | To prevent the insulation areas from protruding upward above the surface of the film, a neat window is cut out in the foil backing exactly along the contour of the insulating pad. |
 | Next, switching the power supply to the film heaters begins. For this purpose, wires are used, also included in the “warm floor” kit. |
 | Special terminal contacts are inserted into the busbar cuts. To do this, you can slightly push the gap between the two layers of film with a screwdriver. |
 | The upper contact blade is inserted into this slot... |
 | ...and the bottom one is first simply pressed with a finger... |
 | ...and then finally crimped with pliers. And so - at all points, according to the diagram, where the wires will be connected. |
 | Then, again, strictly according to the diagram, wires are connected to these terminals. Their ends, stripped of insulation, are inserted into the terminal, and then its petals are sequentially crimped with pliers. |
 | After crimping the terminal, it is insulated with the same rubber-bitumen pads. Only one is glued on the bottom, as shown in the illustration... |
 | ...and the second one is counter-on top. After careful compression, a neat insulating “cocoon” is obtained. |
 | A window is also cut out for it in the foil backing. In addition, in order to “sink” the wire, a groove is cut for it. Operations are repeated in a similar manner at all wire connection points, according to the diagram. |
 | It's time to install the temperature sensor. It will be located in the center of the black heating strip, pressed against it from below (the location is shown by the arrow). |
 | Reliable fixation is ensured by a strip of reinforced construction tape. |
 | For the signal cable, a groove is cut in the substrate, and for the temperature sensor head we even had to make a small recess in the plywood floor covering. |
 | The switching of the heaters is completed, all the wires converge at one point - they dive under the cladding. |
 | And the film heaters are finally around the perimeter, and all the grooves with laid wires are “sealed” with strips of construction tape. |
 | The wires are wound behind the cladding, and you can begin installing the thermostat. |
 | The wires used are stranded, so crimp terminal lugs were installed on all ends stripped of insulation. |
 | The wires are passed through the windows cut into the socket box... |
 | ...and then the panel with the socket box is installed in its place and finally secured there. |
 | The following thermostat will be installed, electronic type with the ability to weekly program the operating modes of the “warm floor”. |
 | First of all, it needs to be disassembled. |
 | First, the facing frame is removed - it is secured with latches and is easy to dismantle. And the thermostat itself must be removed from the metal support. It is fixed on it with a movable metal bracket - it is clearly visible in the photograph. |
 | This bracket is moved upward with a screwdriver and enters from the ground with the caliper. |
 | Caliper and thermostat after disassembly. |
 | The caliper is immediately put into place - secured with self-tapping screws to the socket. Wires are passed through it. |
 | The location of the terminals on the thermostat is nothing special, a standard layout. |
 | First of all, the contacts of the temperature sensor cable are connected. |
 | Then - the load wires, that is, coming from the heating film elements. And finally, the power cable wires - their connection simply did not make it into the frame. |
 | Before final installation of the thermostat in place, it makes sense to check the functionality of the assembled system. |
 | To do this, the machine turns on, that is, power is supplied, and the inscription “Off” appears on the thermostat display - turned off. So far everything is going according to plan. |
 | The thermostat turns on. But heating does not start, since the work was carried out in the summer, in hot weather, and the factory presets on the device are 24 degrees. On the right side of the screen are the actual temperature readings on the temperature sensor, and this is more than 28 degrees. Therefore, for the experiment, we have to temporarily set the heating level to 33 degrees. And the “warm floor” works instantly - a heating icon appears on the indicator (indicated by an arrow), and bare feet feel a rapid rise in temperature on the floor. Everything is working! |
 | You can turn off the system, just in case - temporarily de-energize it and finally install the thermostat. Installing it is no longer difficult - it is attached to the caliper, and then the decorative frame is installed. After this, the power to this line was turned back on. The thermostat will be in the off position until it gets cold, but the outlet may well be used for its intended purpose. |
 | And finally, to logically complete this example, it is shown what ultimately happened after laying the laminate and final finishing thermostat installation area. |
* * * * * * *
So, the publication discussed in detail examples of installing an electric floor heating thermostat. The only things that fell out of sight were those related to fine tuning and programming of such devices. But this is done intentionally so as not to cause confusion. It’s just that different models may have their own characteristics, and there are no universal “recipes”. Therefore, here you will have to strictly follow the instructions supplied with the thermostat. Or look for more detailed description programming operations performed on the Internet.
As an example, we can recommend watching detailed video instructions posted on YouTube by one of the users. By the way, the fine tuning of the model is demonstrated, almost completely coinciding with the installation shown in the last example.
1.
2.
3.
Underfloor heating systems in Lately have become quite common. They not only increase comfort, but also serve as a good addition to the main heating system. For efficient but economical operation of the heated floor, it is necessary to install a thermostat that turns the system on or off. You can see what it looks like in the photo.
Connecting a thermostat to a heated (water) floor is not necessary, although its use contributes to more economical coolant consumption. As for electrical and infrared systems, the installation of a thermostat is essential for their operation.
Before choosing the place where the thermostat will be located. There must be a 220 V electrical network next to it. Between the electrical network and the thermostat, it is necessary to leave space for the location of the circuit breaker.
When creating an electric heated floor, you need to provide space for a temperature sensor. It is usually placed near the thermostat. It is unacceptable to cover it with furniture.
In the case when it is used to heat the floor electrical cable, which is laid in the thickness of the screed, then the temperature sensor is removed from the concrete, placing it together with the inside corrugated pipe. As a result, one end of the pipe is located in the thickness of the screed, and the other is brought out to the wall so that, if necessary, the faulty sensor can be removed and replaced without removing the floor covering.
After installation is complete electrical system markings are applied at the place where the thermostat will be installed. The connection diagram for the heated floor controller will help with this. If the device is built-in, then a niche is made at its future location (read also: " "). To install the overhead device, use self-tapping screws and dowels.
Please ensure that the power of the heating element of the underfloor heating system and the thermostat are compatible with each other. The load on the heating element must be less than the maximum power of the thermostat.
When installing a water heated floor, the temperature sensor is fixed at a height of about 100 centimeters; it can be placed next to the thermostat. But we must take into account that there should be no additional heating sources near the sensor.
After the underfloor heating system has been started, you need to place a regular thermometer next to the temperature sensor and set the required heating temperature on the regulator. The underfloor heating system should maintain stable performance for several hours. After testing the heated floor for normal performance, you can use them. The thermostat makes it possible to set the required temperature and thereby save on coolant.
There is nothing complicated about how to connect a floor heating regulator. But you need to follow the instructions exactly and follow the scheme for performing this work. In addition, the connection must be made with the electricity turned off - this is required by safety regulations. As a result of installing a heated floor system, within a few hours you will notice how much more comfortable the house has become.
Unlike radiators, infrared heaters help to provide heating larger area at much lower temperatures. This allows for economical heating modern houses. To ensure thermal comfort for users and controlled operation of floor equipment, controls should be used. Below is information on how to connect Ballu thermostat BMT 1 and BMT 2, features and advantages of these devices.
Thermal comfort is a subjective feeling for each person. This is a condition in which people perform normal homework without excessive overheating or hypothermia. Thermostats are needed to regulate the temperature and help infrared heaters function properly. TDC is a modern electronic feedback device that maintains an exact set temperature.
Its control system is very simple and at the same time effective - you should set the value that you want to achieve in the selected room. Sensors detect the temperature and then turn on the device to achieve the desired value. After that heating devices automatically turn off. The next switching occurs when the temperature begins to drop. This control system saves energy - the heaters operate only about 4-6 hours a day.
Before answering the question, TDC thermostat 1: how to connect, you should know that the temperature in the apartment largely depends on the location of the heater. It is recommended to install it in an accessible place, away from drafts (windows, doors).
The main advantages of TDC thermostats include:
Thus, controlling the temperature inside the house allows you to maintain sufficient thermal comfort and reduce heating costs. 
You should know that the answer to the question: BMT thermostat 2 - how to connect, is directly related to the installation of Ballu BMT 1. To install them safely, it is recommended to follow the following precautions:
Meaning of wire colors:
A few words about how to connect the Ballu TDC thermostat 1. Installation of the device must proceed sequentially:
The figure below shows how to connect the Ballu BMT 1 thermostat according to the connection diagram. Wiring is laid to the location of the device, which is connected to zero or phase. 
For the Ballu BMT 2 thermostat, the connection diagram is similar to the one shown above, only the terminal numbers are different. After installation, the device is connected to infrared heater a separate line.
If you have any questions, call us! Our consultants will advise you.
