An innovative solution that allows you to create a comfortable and practical bathroom is the installation of an installation for plumbing fixtures. The design hides all pipes, components, couplings and other components in the wall, and the visible part is laconic and harmonious. How to install a toilet installation yourself is described in the article.
The toilet installation system is a clearly thought-out design that allows you to fix plumbing elements and hide their connection to the sewer system. Thanks to such an installation system, it will be possible to hide the “technical stuffing” behind a false panel, while the toilet and flush button remain in sight.
The installation is used when installing floor or hanging plumbing fixtures. At the same time, the second option is gaining great popularity among consumers due to its undeniable advantages:
Installing a toilet with installation has a number of advantages compared to the traditional method of installing plumbing. The main advantages include:
Despite the significant advantages, such a device also has some disadvantages:
Important! There is an opinion that in case of any breakdown it is necessary to dismantle the finishing and disassemble the structure. In fact, there is usually access to the internal parts underneath the removable drain key. Inspection hatches are provided for connection points and taps.
The construction market presents two types of installations for plumbing: block and frame systems.
Block module"recessed" into load-bearing wall rooms. The design includes a plastic tank with fittings and fasteners for fixing the toilet. This option is designed for the installation of wall-mounted plumbing fixtures only. To build a block installation, you should cut a niche in the wall in advance. By choosing this model, you can save up to 15 cm of space.
Frame installation consists of a solid steel frame and various fasteners. Standard frame configuration:
Distinctive features of frame modules:
When purchasing a toilet installation, it is important to consider the following parameters:
A convenient location for the toilet is the least accessible place, away from the door. Usually, when placing installations, they are guided by the placement of risers. In some situations the module has to be moved:
After choosing the installation location, you will need to make markings on the wall. First, you should mark the central axis of the model, then the contours of the frame location and the location of the installation on the wall/floor.
Advice. Before installing a toilet with your own hands, be sure to read the instructions and study the attached installation diagram.
DIY toilet installation height: video
Installation of the installation module requires the following tools:
Before the beginning installation work Sewerage and water supply pipes should be installed. The subsequent installation algorithm includes the following steps:
To connect, you will need fixing plastic clamps to which the pipes of the sewerage system and the cistern are attached. It is advisable to carry out work using reliable materials, for example, copper pipes. To save money, they can be replaced with polypropylene pipes.
After connecting and sealing the seams, a check is carried out - run the water and make sure that there are no leaks. Next, the pipes for installing the toilet are mounted, the drain pipe is fixed to the installation in a special recess.
Upon completion of work on supplying communications before installing the toilet, it is necessary to line the false panel. The frame is usually “sheathed” with plasterboard that is resistant to high humidity. Plaster sheets are attached with self-tapping screws to the frame or to a prepared frame of guide profiles.
Conceal the tank capacity with a safety strip. After this, finish the plaster with tiles or other decorative material, suitable for bathrooms.
Advice. It is advisable to start laying tiles on the installation with the drain button. It should be in the center of the tile or at the joint.
At the final stage, the toilet bowl is installed:
The frame module installation technology is identical for systems from most manufacturers. Do-it-yourself installation of a Grohe toilet is done in the manner described above.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation: video
The installation of block modules is somewhat different from the installation technology of frame models. General procedure for commissioning a block installation:
The main feature of plumbing repairs with installation is the dismantling of the decorative box. The most common breakdowns:
Installation dismantling sequence:
When the problems are resolved, the installation for the toilet is assembled in reverse order.
Installation for a Grohe toilet: do-it-yourself repair. Video.
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Consumers are increasingly choosing wall-mounted toilets for bathroom equipment. Of course, installing a wall-hung toilet is a little more complicated than installing a regular one. floor-standing toilet in the apartment.
Before installing a wall-mounted toilet with your own hands, it is advisable to have an idea of its design.
The entire structure is based on a rigid steel frame, equipped by the manufacturer with a special device for height adjustment. This frame is securely attached to the floor and to a wall built of concrete or solid brick. Such equipment cannot be attached to plasterboard false walls. The toilet bowl is suspended from a steel frame using special pins. The toilet bowl is the visible part of the entire structure after installation.
Built-in flush cisterns for wall-hung toilets differ from conventional ones in that they are made not of ceramics, but of plastic. Their depth is 9 cm, and their width varies. The plastic drain tank is additionally insulated with styropol, a material that protects against the formation of condensation. The cistern is placed on a steel frame. The front part of the tank is equipped with a special cutout through which a push-button water drainage device is installed.
During operation, this hole provides access to the mechanism for repair and maintenance in case of replacement of faulty parts. Modern models are equipped with a function for dosing the volume of drained water using buttons. By pressing one, 3 liters are drained, and the other - 6 liters.
Before installing a wall-mounted toilet, make sure you have the necessary tool and material.
Since different manufacturers have different equipment, it is better to first buy a toilet, and then buy everything necessary materials for its installation and connection, recommended by the manufacturer in the instructions. To carry out installation work, you must prepare:
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Fastening diagram: 1 – Rods for fastening; 2 – Monolithic concrete base; 3 – Pipe.
Installation begins with the need to install a rigid steel frame (installation), which must be firmly installed and secured with dowels to the main wall and to concrete floor. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm must be installed at the place where the toilet is installed. It is also necessary to provide for the supply of a water pipe.
The installation should be installed level relative to the horizontal and vertical planes; for this, a building level is used. Installation is very easy, since the steel frame design has retractable rods, as well as special studs for attaching the frame to the wall.
The height of the bowl can be adjusted according to the height of the people who will use the sanitary product. The optimal installation height for a wall-mounted toilet can be determined experimentally. It is usually done in such a way that the seat is approximately 40 cm from the floor.
The next stage of installation is connecting the outlet of the wall-mounted toilet to the sewer outlet, in which case you need to use corrugation. To check the functionality of the connection, attach the bowl to the frame and perform a test drain. Then the bowl must be removed, since its installation is carried out at the very last moment.
Then the installation site of the frame is sheathed with sheets of double waterproof plasterboard, which is directly attached to the installation and to the wall metal profile. The instructions supplied by the manufacturer with the hanging equipment contain a template for easy cutting of the front part of the casing. Its use facilitates the process of cutting out the required technological holes in a sheet of drywall.
After this, surface finishing work is carried out. ceramic tiles, color matching the overall interior of the bathroom.
After the tile adhesive has completely dried, the toilet bowl is secured by hanging it on 2 studs. They are wrapped in a metal frame of the installation system, which is located under the cladding.
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Diagram of a simple toilet for comparison.
By understanding the technology for installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and get the job done to the highest possible quality. The toilet can be installed in the traditional way or in a more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a positive effect on the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions for completing each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With a solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to manufacture toilets with a length of 575 mm) | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Children's | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
In the case of installing a toilet on an installation, the listed list will be expanded with the corresponding set. Everything you need can be purchased at any plumbing store.
First step . Turn off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. Unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If that doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer.
In older buildings, drains are usually secured using cement coating. To destroy it we use a hammer and chisel. We need to crack the cement and carefully rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and become loose. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewage gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account as you work.
The base for installing the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
We pay attention to the pipes. The sewer line is cleared of debris and various deposits; we install a tap on the water supply line (if it was missing before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Markings on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.
Fifth step. We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.
Accessories for toilets and urinals
If the release is made into the wall, we work like this:
If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following:
Helpful advice! If the toilet connection is drain pipe is performed using corrugation; in most cases, sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.
Seventh step. We are installing the tank. Drain mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly procedure may vary slightly for different models).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.
Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use.
Modern installation option. A special wall installation is used in which the tank mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and flush button remain visible.
The first stage is installation of the frame
We install a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable using brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet bowls.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
Second stage - hanging the tank
The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
The third stage – we install the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are detected, do the following:
Stage four - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost everything modern models tanks allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing a toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank using a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, will you want to destroy the frame casing in order to replace such a hose in five minutes? That's it!
It is best to use plastic pipes for connections. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that’s not always the case.
We connect the outlet of our toilet to the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the flush and move the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may vary depending on the product model. We clarify these points separately and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fifth stage – covering the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it in a double layer. First we do the following:
We attach the sheathing sheets to the frame using special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening pitch at 30-40 cm. The structure will be small in size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.
We cover the drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Helpful advice! Before tiling the box, we install a plug and cuff at the future location of the drain button. Usually they are included in the kit.
Stage six - installing the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on pins (we installed them at the previous stages of work). These steps can be performed in reverse order, whichever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fastening nuts.
Important! The tile that will come into contact with the surface must first be covered with a layer of silicone sealant(you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The installation instructions remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Keep your knee position firmly in place. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the plumbing product and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the markings.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and secure the plumbing product using bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installation wall model toilet.
Seventh step. We insert the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for permanent use.
Read our new article - and also find out what types there are, how to choose and install.
Good luck!
Floor-standing toilets have been out of competition for a long time, but everything is changing. Owners modern apartments More and more people are choosing hanging models. This pleasure is not cheap, but this is practically the only drawback of this solution. But among the advantages of the design are its excellent design and ease of maintenance.
It is important that the installation of a wall-hung toilet is carried out in accordance with all the rules. We will tell you how and in what sequence the work is carried out, what devices will be needed to attach the bowl. Taking into account our recommendations, you can do everything yourself or supervise the actions of plumbers.
Home master can easily cope with mounting a wall-mounted model if you understand the distinctive features its designs.
The visible element of such a plumbing fixture is the toilet bowl itself. Its installation on the wall is carried out in two ways: using an installation and on a concrete base. In our article we will look at both options.
A wall-hung toilet model is more expensive than a regular one floor option, but you can reduce costs if you install the product yourself
Advantages and disadvantages hanging type plumbing fixtures are listed, which describes in detail the varieties and design specifics, and provides guidelines for choosing the best model for you personally.
The design of a wall-mounted plumbing fixture can be roughly divided into three main elements, which will be discussed further.
The frame is the main element of the entire structure, which is attached to the floor and wall of the bathroom. It is the frame that supports the cistern and bowl. The quality of subsequent operation of the product depends on its reliability. After putting the toilet into operation, the structure will need to have a sufficient margin of strength to support the weight of an adult.
To secure the frame, you must have a solid base. Plasterboard walls cannot be considered in this capacity. The frame is equipped with a mechanism that allows you to vary the installation height of the toilet bowl in the range of 40-43 cm. To securely fasten the bowl, manufacturers recommend using strong pins made of steel.
In this photo, all three elements of the toilet design are clearly visible: a light blue frame, a gray-blue plastic tank with a flush button and a white bowl
The best models of support frames for hanging plumbing fixtures are listed, which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.
The hidden fastening of this element, according to supporters of the wall model, is considered one of the advantages of the design. The material for its manufacture is very durable plastic. To prevent condensation from accumulating on the surface, the plastic is treated with styrene.
The tank has flat shape, characterized by a technological cutout on one side. This cutout is necessary for the drain key device. This hole has another purpose: it allows you to remove the drain tank fittings when performing repair work.
Another feature of cisterns suspended structure is economical system drain that such a model can be equipped with. Depending on the need, the drain dose can be 3 or 6 liters.
The bowl is chosen, as a rule, based on the personal preferences of the users. It is visible and must correspond general interior premises. In addition, it should be easy to use.
It is the toilet bowl, as a visible structural element, that should fit organically into the interior of the room: it can even have a square shape
Most buyers prefer an oval-shaped product. Although there are round, rectangular and even square models on sale.
Fastening elements are part of the selected model and are included in its configuration. There is no need to purchase additional hardware for a wall-hung toilet. In addition, among the mounted models there are electronic controls and numerous hygienic functions.
Intelligent types of plumbing fixtures with retractable nozzles for washing and drying, deodorizing and other actions need to be connected to a power supply. Their installation is complicated by connecting the power line and setting up the system:
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These long steel pins, running through holes in the frame and attached to the wall, are needed to hold the toilet bowl securely in place.
First of all, we connect the sewer. For this connection, a black tap is used, which, as a rule, is included in the installation package. One end of this outlet is adjusted to the sewer pipe, and its other end is attached to the frame with special clips.
Water pipes should be located to the right or left of the module. The pipe should be connected to the structure using the existing one. threaded connection. To connect the water supply it is better to use copper or polypropylene pipes, and make the connection detachable.
Cold water can also be supplied to the tank using flexible hoses. Such hoses are more profitable in terms of price, but their fragility should be taken into account. And when replacing failed hoses, you will have to carry out expensive repairs, so the option with pipes is still preferable.
Don't forget to check how securely the drain container is connected to the water supply system. For this purpose, open the water supply tap. It is located inside the drain tank. After filling the container, all possible leaks are eliminated. This can be done without draining the water.
If, during the process of checking the correct connection of the toilet to the sewer or water supply system, leaks are identified, they should be carefully repaired
The connection to the sewer drain should also be checked. To do this, put a toilet bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without finally securing the structure. After which the bowl is removed again and all identified leaks, if any, are eliminated.
At the next stage, you will have to sew up the niche using a moisture-resistant sheet of drywall, and then Finishing work. Please note that we need moisture-resistant drywall, because regular drywall will quickly deteriorate under the influence of condensation.
To perform finishing work when installing a wall-hung toilet with an installation, moisture-resistant plasterboard is used, which can be used in rooms with high humidity without reducing its quality
To cut drywall, you need to use a template, which should be included with the installation. It will allow you to correctly cut all the necessary mounting holes without damaging the material.
After installing the moisture-resistant sheet, finishing material can be fixed to its surface. Ceramic tiles are most often used to decorate a bathroom.
You can begin installing the visible part of the wall-hung toilet only after the tile adhesive has thoroughly dried.
The procedure for installing a toilet bowl:
Now you can drain the water from the tank, thereby checking the operation of the sewer drain. The installation height of the wall-hung toilet bowl relative to the floor can be adjusted by changing the position of the studs and retractable pins that are used to secure this element. It must match the height of the toilet visitors.
The installation height of the bowl can be adjusted in the range of 40-43 cm, but the standard distance is 40 cm from the floor surface
The standard height is 40 cm, measured from the floor surface to the top edge of the bowl.
The installation process is completed by installing the drain key. It is included in the basic package and can be mechanical or pneumatic. Usually this procedure does not cause any problems, since all the provided connections should already be brought to the surface of the wall.
There are special pins for a mechanical key, and tubes for a pneumatic key. All that remains is to install this element in its intended place and adjust its position. That's it: the toilet can be used.
A steel frame is expensive. In principle, you can do without it by building a concrete pedestal with your own hands, which will serve as a reliable foundation for the wall-hung toilet. This option is considered the most economical.
The diagram of the model on a concrete base includes: 1 – two rods for fixing the toilet bowl, mounted into the wall; 2 – concrete base; 3 – pipe for draining into the sewer
With this installation method, the drain container can either be mounted into the wall, with the drain button located outside, or placed above the bowl of the plumbing fixture.
Let's consider the option that is considered the least expensive. Let's prepare everything you need for work:
I think it’s worth repeating that the wall we have to work with must be permanent.
We fix rods in the main wall, onto the outlets of which the toilet bowl will then be placed. Let us remind you that we should get a stable and reliable design, capable of supporting a weight of 400 kg.
The next step is to install the drain coupling. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the height of the toilet in order to cut the coupling to the appropriate length.
Now we need to install the formwork. In order to mark fastening points on the formwork, you should determine the distance between the holes intended for fastening.
To calculate the length of the rods, you need to add up the thickness of the recess, which is approximately 15 cm, and the distance from the wall to the toilet bowl. To fix the rods in the wall, concrete adhesive is used - a chemical anchor.
This is what the structure looks like ready for the concreting process: the place where the drain will be connected to the toilet bowl is covered with foam plastic
When the formwork is installed and the installation of the pins is completed, the bowl should be installed in the place intended for it. Make sure that the mounting holes match the outlets, and the outlet hole matches the coupling drain.
The next step is concreting. This must be done by installing foam plastic in the place where the drain hole will be. Remember that the concrete will finally harden only after 28 days.
After this, you can remove the formwork and make sure that in front of us there is a monolithic concrete block with pins coming out of it and an open, fixed coupling. A toilet is mounted to the front of the block, and a tank is placed on the base itself.
This is exactly what a wall-hung toilet will look like after installing the bowl, and its tank will be installed on a concrete base
The procedure for installing a bowl to a concrete base is no different from installing a floor-standing toilet. You need to install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts, connect and seal the drain. Lastly, a drain tank is placed on the concrete base.
As you can see, this installation method hanging model much cheaper and easier than installation work. But, to be honest, the result is not much different from a floor-standing toilet.
The information you just read will be perceived much better if you supplement it with a video. We invite you to see the installation with toilet mounting hanging type with an installation filmed on video.
The range of plumbing fixtures is expanding: toilets are being improved, updated, and become more and more attractive. But modern models, as a rule, are more expensive than traditional ones.
Tell us about how you installed a wall-hung toilet in your house/apartment. It is possible that you know technological nuances, which will be useful to site visitors. Please write comments, post photos, share your impressions and ask questions in the block below.
Conventional floor-mounted toilets have been replaced by wall-hung structures that do not take up floor space and look more modern. It is not surprising that wall-mounted models have begun to be pushed out of the market traditional products. Installing a wall-hung structure is more difficult, takes more time and costs more, but you can save money if you consider an option such as installing a wall-hung toilet yourself.
If you look into design features products, it becomes clear how to install a wall-mounted toilet.
The design of the wall-mounted product is such that the only visible element is the toilet bowl
The first element is a strong steel frame, which is the base to which the visible part of the structure is attached - the toilet bowl. It is with its installation that the installation of a wall-hung toilet begins. The frame is securely fixed to the wall and also fixed to the floor - as a result, it must withstand the weight of a heavy person.
Accordingly, it is unacceptable to install this structure on weak walls (for example, made of plasterboard), since the wall simply will not hold up. The frame is equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height (400-430 mm) at which the product bowl is mounted. It is suspended from the frame using special pins - this is the main fastening of the wall-hung toilet.
Often two installations are installed simultaneously - for the toilet and for the bidet
The second element is a plastic cistern hidden in the wall. Its shape differs from the traditional one, since the container must fit into a narrow structure. It is mounted in a steel frame and insulated with a special material that prevents condensation - styrofoam. The front wall of the tank is equipped with a cutout for mounting a release button device. In case of repair, this cutout is also used. Almost all modern tanks require dosing of drainage: for example, the volume of water discharged can be 3 liters or 6 liters, depending on the purpose.
Flush tanks of a flat configuration are fixed inside the installation
The third element is the toilet bowl, the only visible and actively used structural part. Its shape is traditional, oval, although designer models There are both round and rectangular configurations.
There should be no problems with fasteners, since the product comes with a set of necessary details and tools and installation instructions. Sometimes it is necessary to additionally purchase Teflon tape, a polyethylene outlet, a flexible hose, and studs.
Installing a wall-hung toilet using a special frame installed in the wall is more expensive, but more reliable and faster.
The installation must be mounted to the floor and main wall
The height of the toilet bowl is adjustable during installation
During work, the water drain from the tank should be shut off.
Many installation kits are connected to sewer pipe without using corrugation
An improvised shelf above the toilet and bidet can be used for decoration or necessary things
The wall cladding behind the toilet should be in harmony with the rest of the room’s decoration
Sheets of plasterboard with lining cover the installation and the flush cistern, leaving the toilet bowl and flush button
Particular attention should be paid correct installation installation, since the correct execution of subsequent work depends on it.
Sometimes people are interested in how to install a wall-hung toilet without installation. Of course, installing a toilet on a frame can be replaced with a cheaper option - installing it on a self-made concrete base.
The flush cistern is installed in two ways: either mounted in the wall with flush buttons, or placed in a standard manner above the toilet bowl in a manufactured base.
Wall-mounted toilet mounting diagram: 1 - 2 rods mounted in the wall; 2 - monolithic concrete base; 3 - drain pipe
Let's consider the most economical option.
To install you need to prepare:
They start by securing the rods in the main wall. In the future, the toilet bowl will be “planted” on the outlets of the rods. The result is a fairly stable structure that can withstand a weight of 400-500 kg.
The dimensions of the concrete base are calculated taking into account further dismantling of the formwork
Install the formwork. Calculate the distance between the holes for fasteners and mark the fastening points on the formwork.
Calculate the length of the rods: sum up the thickness of the recess (about 15 cm), the distance from the toilet bowl to the wall. To fix the rods in the wall, a chemical anchor is used - a special glue for concrete.
After installing the pins and installing the formwork, try on the toilet bowl. The holes for fastening must coincide with the outlets, the outlet hole must coincide with the outlet of the coupling.
The concrete base will finally harden only after 2-3 weeks.
Concreting begins, supporting the drain hole with foam. The result is a monolithic block with a fixed open coupling and protruding pins.
The concrete base should include pins for the toilet bowl, a coupling outlet for the flush and space at the top for mounting a cistern.
There is no need to think about how to install a wall-mounted toilet on a prepared base - the subsequent steps are no different from installing a regular floor-standing toilet: connect the drain, seal the connections, install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts. The flush cistern is fixed above the toilet bowl.
The concrete base and drain pipe can be covered with sheets of plasterboard, leaving an opening for access to the drain tank
Installing a wall-hung toilet like this yourself will save family budget, since expensive installation is not required.
DIY installation and fastening of a wall-hung toilet
Hanging plumbing fixtures are gradually gaining popularity, especially among owners of small bathrooms. However, not everyone likes wall-hung toilets - outwardly they seem unstable and unreliable. This impression is deceptive, because the installation of a wall-hung toilet is carried out using an installation system that is hidden behind finishing material walls. Let's take a closer look at the advantages of hanging plumbing fixtures and read the instructions for installing them.
The main condition for purchasing the installation is that it must match the model of the toilet you have chosen. Often, wall-hung toilets are equipped with an installation system initially; it is best to prefer this option.
The installation must match the size of the niche in which it will be placed.
There are two types of installations
Block – is attached to the wall using conventional anchor bolts, which are the main support of the entire structure.
Framework – is a frame on legs, thanks to which the height of the toilet is adjusted. The frame is attached in four places. An option is possible when all four fasteners are fixed on the wall - this installation method can only be used in the case of solid walls.
If the wall is not stable enough, choose an installation with two fastenings on the wall and two on the floor. The last two fasteners bear the main load.
Pay attention to the equipment included with the device. If the situation is favorable, you will receive the main part (blocks or frames), fasteners, flush keys, sound insulation, flush tank and adapter.
A toilet installed in accordance with all the rules can withstand a load of up to 400 kg! If you doubt that you can carry out all the work correctly and efficiently, we advise you to seek the help of qualified specialists. Well, it will certainly help you save your budget. self-installation installation systems. Feel free to use technological and design know-how to create an original and practical interior.
Installing a toilet with installation: detailed instructions and tips
Toilets with installation are real aristocrats in the world of plumbing. These are convenient and compact devices, usually differing great design and at a price that is not at all sparing to its owner. In addition, installing a wall-hung toilet is a rather complicated task and requires very careful execution.
And yet, the ranks of supporters of toilets with installation are steadily growing. Many home craftsmen, after studying the recommendations and instructions, successfully cope with installing this complex structure on their own.
It is only important to perform each stage of installation work correctly.
A wall-hung toilet is much more complex than a regular compact or monolith. The installation is called a durable metal frame. This frame is installed inside a wall niche and securely fixed to the wall and floor.
The flat plastic tank is already attached to the frame. Then the necessary communications are brought to the niche, finishing is done and the toilet itself is hung.
The toilet remains outside, and the rest of the contents remain hidden in the wall. The flush button, which is usually located on the wall above the bowl, is also displayed on the wall. Even from this condensed description it can be understood that installing such a device is a labor-intensive process.
But still, the model with installation has many advantages:
Among the disadvantages, the high price should be noted. Taking into account installation costs, the cost of such a toilet can be twice that of a standard floor-standing model.
However, manufacturers take into account the growing popularity of wall-hung plumbing, so relatively inexpensive models have appeared on sale. Another drawback is that the tank and frame, hidden in the wall, are not very accessible for repair.
In the event of a serious breakdown, you may have to unravel the entire wall and re-do the finishing work in this area.
To install a toilet with the installation of a built-in toilet, you must purchase the following items:
The installation is usually supplied complete with a flat plastic tank, as well as adapters, pipes, fasteners and a flush button. The kit usually includes a special material that protects the structure inside the wall from the effects of condensation, and also reduces the noise level from the operating tank.
When purchasing, you should carefully check the kit in order to immediately purchase the missing elements. The toilet bowl is also purchased separately. The dimensions and configuration of the installation, like other parts, are standardized, so they can be changed if desired.
For example, you can choose the new double flush button, which saves water.
To complete the installation, you will also need a number of tools, first of all, a hammer drill and concrete drills that match the fasteners. You also need a building level, horns spanners, tape measure, pencil for marking, knife for cutting drywall, etc.
Schematically, the procedure for installing a toilet with an installation can be represented in the form of a number of basic steps:
You will also need a certain amount of drywall, both for installation and finishing work.
Each stage of the installation of a wall-hung toilet requires close attention. The service life of the device, the number and nature of breakdowns largely depend on the quality of installation work.
The results of even minor errors made during the installation process may not become obvious immediately, but only during operation. Repairs can be very costly and time-consuming, so it is better to correctly install all the elements of this device right away than to redo it later.
Niche for installation
To create a niche and install the installation, only walls with appropriate bearing capacity. The installation can withstand a weight of about 400 kg, and part of this load falls on the wall. Therefore, it would be unwise to install a wall-hung toilet on a plasterboard wall; it might simply collapse.
So, to install the installation, you need to hollow out a niche in the wall with the following parameters:
Sometimes depth requirements are not easy to meet. In this case, a niche is made to the possible depth, and its deficiency is hidden with the help of drywall and finishing.
Thus, there is space for experimentation in the field of interior design. For example, you can make a built-in closet in the space between the ledge that appears and the wall, or hang open shelves there.
But the idea of simply placing a frame along the wall and then completely covering it with plasterboard does not make much sense. In this case, it is easier and cheaper to put a regular compact in the same place, which will take up the same amount of space or even less.
Residents of the upper floors apartment buildings sometimes they are installed in a niche of a fan riser. In this case, part of the vent riser is cut off and an air valve is installed where the outlet to the attic is located.
In some bathrooms, a niche for communications is provided by the design. It can also be used for installation, but some modifications may be necessary, for example, changing the position of water pipes and moving the sewer riser.
If you have experience in performing such operations home craftsman no, it is better to consult with a specialist or even entrust him with performing this part of the installation work.
Sewage supply
Before installing the frame, you must ensure that the sewer pipe is correctly connected to the installation site. You will need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It should be laid as close to the floor as possible, and it is imperative to maintain the correct slope.
The connection point should be 250 mm from the center of the wall niche. An oblique bend with an angle of 45 degrees is put on the horizontal part of the pipe. After completing these operations, you can begin installing the installation.
Installation of frame with tank
There are four points for mounting the toilet installation. In two places the legs of the frame are attached to the floor, and in two more places the frame is secured to the wall using brackets. In this case, you should definitely use a building level so that the structure stands perfectly level both vertically and horizontally.
If the installation is installed even with a slight misalignment, interruptions may occur in the operation of the internal mechanism, which will lead to rapid failure of the structure. To level the frame vertically, use adjustable legs.
The horizontal position is set using wall fastenings, the position of which can also be changed as needed. Once the position of the installation is precisely set and fixed, you can screw it to the wall. To give the frame greater stability, the legs can be additionally cemented.
A layer of screed 20 cm high will be sufficient, but this measure is not mandatory.
At the bottom of the installation there are several holes intended for further installation of the hanging bowl. The distance between the floor and these holes should be approximately 300-400 mm so that the toilet bowl can be hung high enough from the floor. Special pins should be installed in these holes.
They are inserted all the way into the wall and secured with special nuts. The studs are designed for later hanging the toilet.
Connecting communications
You should start by connecting the sewer system. Typically, the installation is equipped with a special black outlet designed for this connection. It should be adjusted to the sewer pipe. The second side of the outlet is secured to the installation with special clips.
Connection to the water supply is made on the right or left side of the installation. Water pipe connected using a threaded connection already installed in the structure.
To supply water to the tank, you can also use ordinary flexible hoses. It is easy to install and inexpensive option, but the service life of hoses is shorter than that of pipes, so one must take into account the need for complex repairs to replace them.
At this stage, it is necessary to check the reliability of the connection of the tank to the water supply system. To do this, you need to open the water supply tap, which is located inside the tank, and fill the container. All connections are then checked for leaks and repaired if necessary. There is no need to drain the water.
The sewer connection can be checked as follows: place a bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without securing the structure.
After this, the bowl should be removed from the mount, checked for the presence or absence of leaks, and then continue installation.
Finishing work
If the installation is installed correctly and the tank does not leak, you need to sew up the niche with a sheet of plasterboard and perform finishing work. It is recommended to take a double sheet of special moisture-resistant plasterboard. Regular drywall will soon be damaged due to contact with condensate.
To correctly cut all the mounting holes in the sheet and not spoil the material, use a cutting template. Typically, such a template is supplied with the installation.
In the bathroom, the walls are most often tiled with ceramic tiles. Further work on installing a wall-hung toilet can only begin after this stage is completed.
It would not be a mistake to even completely complete the renovation of the bathroom, and only then continue with the installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation.
Installation of a wall hung toilet
This stage can be called the simplest, since the bulk of the work has already been completed. But first it is recommended to wait until the layer of tile adhesive has completely dried. Install the toilet bowl as follows:
After this, you can check the operation of the sewer system by flushing water from the tank into the toilet bowl. To adjust the height of the toilet bowl above the floor, you can change the position of the retractable pins and studs designed to hang the bowl. In this case, they usually focus on the height of the visitor.
The universal height is considered to be a distance of 40 cm from the edge of the bowl to the floor level.
Installation of the flush button
All that remains is to install the flush button. It can be pneumatic or mechanical. This is not a complicated operation, since all connections are already provided on the installation and should already be connected to the corresponding hole on the wall.
To install a mechanical button, you will need to install special pins and then adjust their position. The pneumatic model only needs to be connected to the tedious tubes on the installation, and it will be ready for use.
Installing a wall-hung toilet with installation: do-it-yourself step-by-step installation (video)
