Water supply for baths is a recent requirement. We are becoming more and more accustomed to comfort, and the tank into which we carry water in buckets from the nearest well or river is no longer suitable for many people. Increasingly, a complete bath water supply system is required.
When planning a water supply system for a bathhouse, you first need to decide on the source from which the water will be drawn. There may be several sources:
The easiest way is, of course, with centralized water supply. You simply connect to the system, make connections to the area and the bathhouse, and pay for using the services.
If you don’t have such a luxury as a centralized water supply, you need to take care of your own water source. This could be a well or a borehole. Which one you need is up to you.
Wells can be artesian (it would be more correct to call them wells reaching rich aquifers) or sandy. Artesian wells are not a cheap pleasure. Aquifers lie quite deep from the surface of the earth and require special equipment.
How deep you need to drill a well depends on the location of your bathhouse. The range of depths is very large - from 30 to 300 meters. There is a similar spread in drilling costs. But usually drilling artesian wells pays off. They have a lot of advantages:
Wells are also sandy or filter wells. In this case, they are drilled to the nearest sand layer. The depth of the wells in this case rarely exceeds 30 meters, but depends on the geological and hydrological structure of the soil in your area.
When organizing this type of water supply for a bathhouse, it is necessary to make a filter column. Its complexity and structure depend on the degree of looseness of the sand layer: the looser the horizon, the greater the likelihood of clogging and sanding of the well, which means the more complex the filter structure. Usually a filter of gravel and fine mesh is combined, but much more multi-layer designs can be used.
The main advantages of a sand well are: high price and high speed of its arrangement. But there are quite a lot of disadvantages:
The traditional way to organize a water source near the bathhouse is to dig a well. It reaches the nearest aquifer, but is not distinguished by either the purity of the water or the stability of its level: during rains and floods, the water level in the well rises, and in dry times it decreases. In addition, during a flood, natural filters do not always cope with their task and the water in the well may be cloudy or even have biological contaminants.
The problem can be partially solved using the so-called Abyssinian well. Its peculiarity is that a long pipe with a filter at the end is clogged to the next aquifer. Maximum 10-12 meters.
Its feature and main part- a pointed piece of pipe in which a large number of holes are drilled (a kind of filter). This section of the pipe is driven into the ground using a tripod and a headstock - cast iron or made of reinforced concrete using high grade cement in a cylindrical piece. Having hammered in the first piece of pipe, screw the second, third, etc. onto it. until water appears in the pipe. Its presence is checked by sharply lowering a piece of hollow pipe of a smaller diameter, tied to a strong twine, into the pipe being driven. When hitting the water, a characteristic pop is heard. The depth is sufficient when the water in the pipe is at least 50 cm, and preferably 1 meter.
After reaching a sufficient depth, an exhaust pump is installed at the top. In this case, you can raise water from a depth of 7-8 meters. If the water is at greater depth you can use submersible pump.
Modern models have small dimensions and power sufficient to lift water from 30 meters. If the water depth is shallow, you can use a hand pump.
The Abyssinian well is good in cases where there are no very dense layers or large boulders between the aquifers. In this case, it is necessary to use special drilling equipment and it would be more expedient to construct a well.
When using wells to supply water to a bathhouse, a pumping station is required. The best option is with a decent-sized hydraulic accumulator. If you choose a model with a small reservoir, the pump will constantly turn off and turn on when water is consumed.
The type of pump - exhaust or submersible and its power depend on the depth from which you need to lift water and the required amount of water.
An important part of the bath water supply system is the pipes. If you use the sauna only in summer period, then you can use regular or reinforced flexible hoses connected using special or homemade adapters or splitters. The summer water supply system can be laid on the surface of the ground without burial. If you plan to use the bathhouse in winter period, care must be taken to ensure that the water in the pipes does not freeze in winter.
In any case, in addition to the pump and water storage tank, you will also need a pressure gauge (water pressure sensor) and a check valve. Next comes the installation of pipes inside the bathhouse.
After you have installed a water source on the site, in case of winter water supply, it is necessary to lay the pipes through which water will be supplied to the bathhouse to a depth greater than the depth of soil freezing. In this case, you can use plastic or metal-plastic pipes (copper is too expensive, and cast iron or metal are a thing of the past). It would also be useful to insulate them using materials that are not afraid of moisture.
In order to insure against severe frosts, you can pour 30 cm of expanded clay or foam chips into the trench, and lay insulated pipes on top, which can also be partially covered not with soil, but with a heat insulator.
But if the bathhouse is not heated in winter, the temperature in it usually drops almost to the street level.
With this option, the water remaining in the pipes in the bathhouse will certainly freeze. Therefore, it is imperative to provide for the possibility of maximum drainage of water from the system after each visit during the winter period.
If the bathhouse is heated with gas, then it is quite possible to keep the boiler on the wick in winter. In this case, the standard gas-burner burns about 2 cubic meters of gas per day. The temperature in a well-insulated small bath will correspond to room temperature, i.e. water will not freeze in cold weather.
Reinforced polypropylene pipes can be used as water pipes.
For water supply pipes with a diameter of 20 mm or 25 mm are sufficient. The video shows one of the options for installing water pipes in a bathhouse. Water is supplied to the shower, and...
As a rule, installation of a water supply system made of polypropylene pipes can be done with your own hands. In addition to pipes, you will need taps, fittings, elbows, couplings and an apparatus (“soldering iron”) for soldering foam pipes. The video shows welding machine Defort DWP-2000.
Foamed propylene pipes are suitable not only for cold water, but also for hot. How to properly solder polypropylene foam is shown in the video.
If you have any questions regarding the organization of water supply for a bathhouse, ask them in the comments.
As you know, “Water is life.” A bathhouse without access to water loses its main purpose. Water is necessary for washing and brewing brooms, putting it on the heater to get healing steam, and even for the tea ceremony after taking bath procedures. It is better if the water is supplied directly to the bathhouse, then there will be no need to carry it in front of the firebox, and you can use it without restrictions. We’ll talk about how to supply water to a bathhouse with your own hands, methods of communication and types of sources in any area in this article.
Bath water is integral part any procedure, from the steam room to the shower.
Water to the bathhouse should be carried out not only in the area where the centralized plumbing system. Types of water source can be divided into:
Areas with centralized water supply are the easiest option for connecting communications. The bathhouse is planned on the site so that the water supply is as close and simple as possible. In this case, you can install a double-circuit boiler in the bathhouse and provide hot and cold water supply.
Do-it-yourself wiring is carried out in the following steps:
It would be correct to enter under the foundation. If this is not possible, then the entry point water pipe needs to be insulated. A water meter is installed in the system, and system shut-off valves are installed before and after it. In the well, after the main shut-off valve of the bath system, a special drain is installed. The same one is installed after the water meter. These taps are necessary to drain water from the system during repair work.
But a bathhouse is not always built on a site with access to water. For example, garden and country buildings. In this case, you must choose one of the following water supply methods.
A well for a bathhouse can be lined with old machine tires; this is the most inexpensive way. Well water supply for bathhouses is one of the most inexpensive ways bring water to the bathhouse summer cottage.
A well is being dug in the area as close as possible to the bathhouse. Its depth should be at least 5 m. You can line the well with old car tires. Groundwater will flow into the well by gravity and accumulate in it. And thanks to natural filtration, the water in the well will be clean. The only negative is that in summer time when the level groundwater decreases by 3-4 m, the well may dry up. In addition, the well must be periodically cleaned, otherwise it will be susceptible to silting.
Water is supplied to the bathhouse from the well using a drainage pump. The sediment has a special design and prevents debris (branches, stones) from entering the water. If there is no electricity in the area, you can use a gasoline generator. The water will be pumped into a boiler or tank for hot and cold water. In extreme cases, water from the well can be drawn manually.
A cantilever pump is also suitable, but its design is not designed to transport water from a depth below 2 m. And more powerful models are expensive. The pump is installed next to the well, one hose is lowered below the water surface level, the second is carried into the bathhouse to the barrel. Pumping must be constantly monitored, since the water level in the well will quickly drop and the hose must be adjusted.
The disadvantage of well water supply is that in winter the water in the system can freeze. In order to use well water accumulation in the bathhouse, it is necessary to install an insulated structure.
The system is installed as follows:
The entire pipe system and the suction part are installed below the soil freezing level. For well water supply summer bath There is no need to install a complex system.
Schematic description of water supply to the bathhouse from a well. The well is complex design in order to supply water compared to wells. The well is simply dripped to a given depth and rings, car tires or a well frame are installed. The well must be drilled using a special installation. The water from the well is always cool, has good taste and mineral qualities, is clean and is available at any time of the year. For a Russian bath similar water the best option.
Well maintenance is also more complicated than a well. So, to clean a well, it is enough to pump out the water and go down to remove the silt and clean the dirt. When filling the filter in the well, you will need to install a new structure. The system is installed in the following steps:
The whole system as a whole resembles wiring from a well in winter. They are laid in the same way under the foundation below the soil freezing level. Place where water is installed pump equipment The basement of the bathhouse is insulated.
How to supply water to the bathhouse from the central pipe of the water utility with your own hands. The water supply system inside the bathhouse must be assembled according to the simplest scheme. What is she the easier it is better. Pipes can be attached directly to the walls using special plastic fasteners. The most important thing is to properly organize the fill and drain system, as well as insulate the pipes in case of freezing. Water can be heated in a tank above the stove or through a simple boiler system. You can install a boiler in a heated bath.
It is not difficult to make water distribution in the bathhouse with your own hands; for this you need: flexible pipes, hacksaws, wrench. The system is connected into a single system starting from pumping station.
Maintenance of the system is simple: once a year the heating tank is washed and the pumping system is cleaned. The tank is simply drained and the inside is cleaned from rust with an iron brush. Washed off running water. It is not recommended to use various chemical compounds in the bathhouse to wash the tank; there is a high probability that the product will not be completely washed off and subsequently it will end up in the water.
If the bathhouse is not insulated, then in winter the water pipes must be hidden in a special insulation. For an insulated and heated bathhouse, such measures are not necessary.
In summer, water for the bath can be drawn from a well, which is located next to the building. For summer water supply to a bathhouse, the well method is sufficient. In this case, there is no need to bury the system below freezing of the soil, a maximum of 0.7 m. This is enough to withstand an accidental collision with a walk-behind tractor, a garden wheelbarrow, or even a mini tractor.
During installation, the angle of inclination is made towards the well, so in the event of a breakthrough or shutdown, the remaining water will flow by gravity into the well and the foundation of the bathhouse will remain dry.
In winter, the bathhouse will freeze, so the water system is buried to a depth below freezing of the soil, approximately 150–220 cm, depending on the region.
If the bathhouse is not heated, it is necessary to consider a system for draining excess water from the system after use. If this is not done, the water will freeze inside the pipes and taps and may rupture the system.
From all of the above, it becomes clear that it is not difficult to supply the bathhouse with water and install the system with your own hands. The main thing is a little patience and choose the right method that is suitable specifically for your bath.
If you need to arrange a bath water supply in winter, the diagram given in this publication will allow you to understand what main components a bath water supply contains and what equipment you will need. You will also be helped by comments that explain the issues of insulating the winter bath water supply and the functioning of the entire system.
How does the water supply for a bathhouse in winter differ from summer? The diagram that you see contains three main components: a water source, a water supply system, and equipment.
The source of water for the bath water supply can be the house water supply.
In the first case, a connection is made to internal water supply in the house. Depending on whether a constant water supply is required, the water supply may be insulated.
If water supply is needed year-round and constantly, it can be laid either in a trench at a depth below the freezing level of the soil, or by air with insulation and a heating cable.
If the water supply is required only for pumping water into the bathhouse, it is made uninsulated and unheated. But the pipeline must be made with a slope, at the end of which a drain neck with a shut-off valve is installed.
As is known, flowing water cannot freeze even at subzero temperatures. Therefore, you don’t have to insulate the water supply unless there is constant water there. But all remaining water must be drained after the water supply to the bathhouse from the house has been completed.
The same principle applies to water supply from a well or borehole. If there is water in the pipeline, it is insulated or laid at a depth below the freezing level.
If a one-time injection takes place, then at the end of it, the remaining water from the pipe is drained back into the well or borehole. For these purposes, the well pump should not have a check valve.
The water supply outlet in the bathhouse base must be insulated. This will avoid “grabbing” water in this area during frosts.
If you want to make a bathhouse according to a non-insulated scheme, then in the lower part of the vertical section a drain valve, controlled from the bathhouse.
It is enough to make a simple pull, by pulling which you open or close the tap.
It is important not to forget to drain the water from the pipeline after the end of the water supply, otherwise the formed ice can damage the shut-off valves and rupture the pipe.
The presence of water in the bathhouse significantly increases the comfort of taking water procedures and facilitates the preparation of the bathhouse. In addition, there is no need to allocate special places in the premises for water containers, and there is no need to periodically fill these containers with water.
In the absence of running water, the barrels are filled with extra water, the excess after the bath is poured onto the floor, otherwise it will freeze in the winter and the ice will damage the containers, and in the summer, as a result of the water standing for a long time, various microorganisms and bacteria multiply in it - the water acquires an unpleasant color and smell.
There is another advantage of running water in a bathhouse - the amount of water poured under the bathhouse is significantly reduced, and this is always a problem for wooden structures and foundation.
Water supply in the bathhouse is convenient and economical
How can you bring water into a bathhouse with your own hands, what equipment is required for this, and what construction work should be performed? To make the best decision in each specific case, you should familiarize yourself with existing species and bath water supply schemes.
Depending on the frequency of use of the bathhouse, water supply can be summer or all-season.
The simplest, but also the most inconvenient method of water supply.
Advantages
Water pipes are laid along the surface of the site; there is no need to carry out a large amount of excavation work to dig trenches. You can use cheap soft hoses, the number of expensive plumbing fittings is significantly reduced, the hoses can be laid along the shortest route from the water source to the bathhouse. And the main advantage is the low cost of arranging a summer water supply.
Flaws
Every season, the hoses must be removed to a warm room and the surface pipes must be completely drained of water. If overnight frosts suddenly hit, the hoses and pipes may fail, and purchasing new ones will require a considerable amount of money. But the most main drawback- inability to accept bath procedures in winter. If there is a need to use a bathhouse in the winter, then you need to install water containers in the premises and carry them in buckets.
Summer water supply is done in extreme cases, and then only as a temporary solution to the problem. There are several reasons that do not allow you to immediately install a winter water supply, and this is not only a lack of finances. For example, construction work at other sites may continue on the site, which does not allow digging trenches in the required places or it is possible to connect to public engineering networks, but it takes time to coordinate various permits, etc.
As practice shows, even those owners of bathhouses who initially provided summer water supply, eventually convert it to winter water supply. Therefore, we advise you to immediately make a winter option, not to waste time and money on temporary water pipes.
Advantages
The main thing is the uninterrupted availability of water at any time of the year. There is no need to monitor the air temperature and worry about the safety of pipes and hoses during sudden frosts. In addition, time is not wasted on periodically dismantling equipment and reconnecting it.
Flaws
The main disadvantage is the increase in the estimated cost of the work and the purchase of equipment. The second disadvantage is the rather large volume of excavation work and the occurrence of problems associated with such work.
Conclusion - do winter water supply anyway, in the end it will give you the opportunity to save money and time. It is better to spend money once on a real water supply than to first install a temporary one and then switch to a winter one anyway.
Now let's look at what equipment is used to supply water to the bathhouse.
There are a huge number of household pumps for supplying water; they differ widely in technical characteristics. When choosing a specific model and type, you need to consider individual characteristics bath water supply: depth of water intake, supply height, length of pipelines and the need to automate water intake. Let's look at each type of pump in more detail.
Installed on the surface of the water intake of open water sources: pond, river or well. Suitable only for summer water supply.
Float pump - photo
Flaws– relatively low power and lack of built-in automatic on/off systems, can only operate at positive temperatures, require the installation of water tanks.
Advantages– independence from the water level in the source, float pumps float on the surface of the water intake, the suction pipe is always under water, and rises/falls with it.
They are immersed under water to a shallow depth, and after immersion they are fixed with stainless steel cables or strong polyamide ropes.
Advantages– allowed to be used when negative temperatures- are constantly located below the surface of the water.
This same advantage can be disadvantage– when the water level in the source drops significantly, the suction pipe becomes exposed and the pump stops operating. They are not very powerful, require separate water storage tanks, and do not have built-in control electronics.
Float and submersible pumps, unlike other types, can supply water with flexible hoses; they do not have lines that operate under vacuum. As for automation, you can make it yourself or purchase it separately in specialized stores. These two types of pumps belong to the cheapest category and are used mainly during the installation of a summer water supply for a bathhouse. They are easy to maintain and repair, and are always within easy reach.
submersible pump
Quite new equipment, universal use.
Advantages
They have built-in automatic switching on/off depending on the pressure in the hydraulic accumulator - it is possible to connect any equipment, the water pressure is stable. They are significantly superior in power to those described above; they do not require additional water tanks. They can both suck water from a certain depth and supply it to a calculated height. When choosing a specific brand, carefully study the instructions for the pumps, pay attention to the suction depth and delivery height, this is very important criteria. Pumps with hydraulic accumulators can take water from both open sources and shallow wells.
Flaws
Quite a high cost, installation is allowed only in warm rooms. If there is a possibility of the bathhouse freezing, then you need to resolve issues with insulating the pump or drain the water from it. It takes quite a long time to drain/fill water; in addition, you will have to install additional water shut-off valves to drain water from vertical pipeline risers. Another drawback is that the units are quite noisy, constantly turning on/off electric motor may cause a feeling of discomfort.
The most expensive, reliable and powerful pumps. They are used for installation in deep wells and have their own multi-stage protection against silting and short circuits. It is not economically profitable to use only for one bathhouse; it is recommended to purchase such pumps for installing water supply in all buildings located on the summer cottage. Flaw– a water storage tank is required; in most cases, the Rozhnovsky water tower is used for this purpose.
Deep pumps are lowered into wells only for metal pipes ah, the use of plastic is excluded.
| Source | Description | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Open sources: river or pond. | If, of course, they are on the site. Benefits – zero costs. Disadvantages - there may be questions about water quality, and the risk of pump clogging increases. |
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| For most baths this is the optimal solution. The quality is suitable for cooking - water from wells can be used not only for baths, but also for residential buildings. |
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| They can be shallow (on sand) or deep (on limestone). The depth of the former does not exceed 20 meters, specific values depend on the geodetic features of the area and water balance soils. The advantages of small wells are their relatively low cost. Disadvantages - low water flow, high risks of well silting and pump clogging. If water is taken from wells regularly, the risks of siltation are reduced, the sludge is sucked out by the pump, and the mesh filter is cleaned. But if the well is used very rarely, then siltation occurs quickly. The second wells have the highest performance in all parameters. But they also have a significant drawback - the high cost of work. The drilling depth can be several tens of meters or more. |
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When choosing a specific location for water intake, take into account the maximum number of individual factors - this is an axiom of any planning. Our additional advice is to plan a few steps ahead, don’t live for today. If at the moment it is enough for you to take water for a bath from a pond, then keep in mind that in a few years no one will want to use such water. Why do the same job twice? Make a normal water supply right away, this will significantly expand its capabilities.
Let's consider one of the options that is quite successful in all respects - winter water supply from a well using a pumping station and a hydraulic accumulator.
pumping station
Step 1. Preliminary planning and equipment purchase.
First of all, draw a diagram of the plumbing. Indicate where exactly in the bathhouse the pumping station will be installed, to which consumers the water is connected, and where the water is drawn from. We are considering the case when there is already a well on the site; if there is none, we will have to dig it. This is quite complex work; we will tell you how to properly dig a well in our next article.
An additional filter must be installed near the pump. The pump has one filter included on the submersible check valve, but the mesh size can only hold coarse sand. But the pump is also afraid of small abrasive particles; such a filter does not catch them.
For water pipes you can use flexible polyethylene pipes, connected by dismountable couplings or plastic pipes, connected by a special welding machine.
We recommend using the first option for laying pipes in a trench; such connections are quite reliable; when tensile loads occur, the pipe is slightly pulled out of the rubber seal, this is provided for by the design of the couplings. The tightness of the connection is not broken, which is very important if the water supply is in a trench.
You can use plastic pipes in a bathhouse; to connect them you need to have a special welding machine; it is inexpensive and will always come in handy on the farm. The diameter of the intake and main pipes is at least two inches; distribution throughout the room can be done with pipes of a smaller diameter. To change from one pipe diameter to another, use special adapters.
Now you can go to the store, experienced sales consultants will give you additional advice on the optimal configuration of the selected equipment. The equipment depends on the manufacturer and type of equipment.
Expansion tank (hydraulic accumulator) horizontal. Hydraulic accumulator calculation
The fact is that those installed at the pumping station have a small storage volume, in most cases it does not exceed five liters. It is impossible to say more precisely, the volume of accumulated water depends on set pressure. A small supply of water causes the electric motor to switch on/off frequently. This creates discomfort and negatively affects the stator and rotor windings. For a bathhouse, it is enough to install an additional hydraulic accumulator of fifty liters.
hydraulic accumulator
Step 2. Mark and dig a trench
Try not to lay the pipe in places where other buildings are planned in the future. Your pipe, of course, is not a gas main, but you shouldn’t create additional difficulties for yourself. The depth of the trench is not lower than the freezing level of the soil. In order to eliminate the risk of damage to plastic pipes by stones, a sand cushion approximately 5 centimeters thick should be poured onto the bottom of the trench; the pipes on top should also be covered first with sand and then with earth. If your land does not have stones, you don’t have to protect it with sand.
Dig up one of the rings of the well, using a hammer drill, make a through hole in the ring for the pipe, the hole should be 10-20 centimeters above the water level. The size of the hole should allow you to work in it with your hands; before filling the trench with mud, the large hole will be closed with any piece of thick-walled galvanized metal or plastic. The entry of the pipeline into the bathhouse depends on the type of foundation; the strip foundation will have to be dug up.
The open section of the pipe from the ground to the floor of the bathhouse must be carefully insulated. There are excellent industrial insulation for pipelines, but we recommend strengthening them - making a wooden box around the pipe and filling it with glass wool. The dimensions of the box around the perimeter are at least 50x50 centimeters.
Step 3: Measure the depth of water in the well
To do this, you need to tie any weight to the end of a long rope and lower it into the well until it stops with the bottom. Cut off vertical riser in such a way that the check valve mesh does not reach 20÷30 centimeters to the bottom. This is necessary so that during seasonal fluctuations in water level the valve is always in the water. A slight elevation above the bottom will prevent the mule from being sucked in.
Step 4. Lower the intake pipe into the well
A check valve with a strainer is included with the pump; attach it to the end of the pipe section.
Important. Do not buy Chinese plastic check valves. They work for no more than a year, low-quality plastic breaks. To replace the check valve you will have to dig a trench. This is quite difficult even in summer, but what if a breakdown occurs in winter? Responsible manufacturers make such valves from bronze or brass, buy only these.
A plastic pipe can be cut with a hacksaw or a grinder. Special devices are sold in stores for deburring and chamfering, but you should not buy them. The fact is that they can make a chamfer only if the cut is perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe; this is impossible to achieve manually. The chamfer can be easily removed with a sharp knife or made with a grinder from the flat side of the disk. Without a chamfer, the rubber seal of the coupling can be damaged, and even a slight air leak can cause the pump to fail. You will have to look for the place of the leak and change the coupling or o-rings.
Fence vertical pipe connects to the horizontal connecting angle, this is quite inconvenient to do, you have to stick both hands into the hole in the concrete ring of the well. Make sure that the connection is absolutely tight.
Step 5. Attach a horizontal pipe lying in the trench to the outlet of the angle
Step 6. The pumping station needs to be insulated
We recommend additionally preparing a pit in the ground for it; this will significantly reduce the risk of freezing. The pit should be covered with a tight lid; all surfaces can be covered with sheets of foam plastic about ten centimeters thick.
The pipe is connected to the pump, the pump is installed in the bathhouse. On this external works completed, internal piping can be done. For internal wiring, it is better to use plastic pipes; the connection is made with a special welding machine.
While the trench is not backfilled, you need to check the functionality of the pump. Fill it with water; the water should fill the entire pipeline in the trench and displace the air. This can be quite time consuming. During the first start of the pump, the pumping should be facilitated; there may still be air in the pipes, the pump must expel it. Before turning on the engine, open the valve from the hydraulic accumulator, let the water and air flow out without pressure. In this way, you will be able to speed up the pumping of the pipeline, completely remove air from the system and reduce the load on the pump.
Important. When laying a pipeline in a trench, try to ensure that it lies level along the entire route. Otherwise there will inevitably appear air jams, it will be difficult to remove them.
The pump with a hydraulic accumulator can be adjusted to the engine on/off pressure. Factory settings do not quite meet the requirements of the bath; they are designed to connect household appliances, operating at a water pressure of approximately 2.2 atm. We recommend reducing the pressure, this will significantly reduce the load on the engine and increase the capacity of the hydraulic accumulator. How it's done?
We guarantee that such simple changes technical characteristics triggering will increase the service life of the pump by at least one and a half times. In addition, noise during operation will be significantly reduced. Be sure to install an additional water filter before entering the pump.
You need to act according to the drawn diagram, do the work slowly. The fact is that after an error is discovered, the sealed connection will have to be cut off and a new one made; for this you need to use additional couplings, and they do not decorate the water supply. Do not weld all the sections in a row; sometimes you need to skip one connection, weld the next one, and then return to the previous one. It is impossible to describe all the solutions in the article, especially without knowing your scheme. Let us repeat the previous advice again - think several steps or technological operations ahead.
Properly organized water supply for a bath implies an uninterrupted supply of water under constant pressure. It is with the supply of water that there are great difficulties. If heating water is not difficult - you just need to turn on the boiler or another heating option, then everything is not always clear with the influx of water. Let's consider options for organizing water supply from different sources: wells, boreholes. Let's figure out how to build a water supply system in a bathhouse with your own hands and how to connect a steam room to a dressing room.
The old ancient methods, when water was carried from a lake or well and poured into a barrel, from which it was then taken, are long gone. Now you can enjoy the comfort of adjusting the water supply with just one hand movement. But for everything to be exactly like this, you should approach the issue of water supply for the bathhouse with great responsibility.
First of all, the question of which water source will be used is decided. The choice occurs between three options: central water supply, well or well. In fact, most likely there will be no choice, but only one option available. Each method of obtaining water has its pros and cons. If it is possible to connect to a centralized water supply, questions should not arise; technically everything is clear here. Let's talk about autonomous water supply, how to get water from a well or borehole with minimal effort and maximum results. To obtain a source for water intake in a bathhouse, you must have:
If the water source on the site is located very deep, you will have to hire specialists with equipment to drill an artesian well. And although you will have to pay a certain amount for this, the result will meet all expectations: in a couple of days you will have a source with high-quality and clean water. But if the waters pass very close, you can simply plug the pipe and install manual column, two valves, and you can use water. The so-called Abyssinian well is only suitable for use in warm time year, the method is not suitable for winter.
Provided that the bathhouse is used only in the warm season, the installation of the water supply will be carried out according to a simplified scheme. The pipes are laid at a depth of eighty centimeters to one and a half meters. The main thing that should not be forgotten is the angle of inclination of the system towards the well. This is necessary to ensure that water does not remain in the pipes over the winter, since freezing can damage the integrity of the pipes. To organize water supply, you need to stock up necessary materials, equipment and tools. In addition to pipes, a pump and fittings, you need to purchase a heater for washing in a bathhouse, the recommended volume is about eighty liters. You should also think about filters.
The summer method of water supply is easier to carry out, in addition to providing water for the bathhouse: steam room and shower, it is necessary to water the plants, fill the shower and provide for various needs. To connect water to a bathhouse with an already installed water supply summer version, you can use an existing system running through the site. This will allow for a minimum of additional work and a minimum of costs.
To set up a summer mobile water supply, it is necessary to purchase pipes for external installation of the system. This is convenient, but during cold weather the system should be dismantled. But craftsmen When using rigid metal pipes, we have adapted to leaving them in place for the winter, having previously insulated them.
The simplest and primitive circuit water supply to the bath using series-connected silicone hose or leftovers metal-plastic pipes. This option may be temporary during installation stationary option. If a hose is used, experts advise using a product with reinforced threads. The entire system is built on a slope, which allows water to be drained as needed. And although experts have differing opinions regarding the need for a slope, it is better to do what is best. The weather can change sharply, you may not have time to dismantle the system, but with a tilt you can drain the water and not worry about the integrity of the entire structure, and be free to calmly assemble the parts until the next season.
If the water comes from a well, it is necessary to equip the system so that the water drains there. To do this, install taps and a switch. All these measures will help protect the system from destruction and failure.
This water supply option must be approached very responsibly. The usual option with deep laying of pipes in the ground does not quite work, since the bathhouse is non-residential premises and is used only occasionally. This means that the slightest remaining water will freeze and disable the system, because the room temperature will drop to the street temperature.
To completely eliminate breakdowns, there should be no water in the system. To do this, you can use a vibration pump from a water source with check valve. It works like this: after the pump is turned off, the water flows out of the pipes and does not linger anywhere. Installation of taps or other additional equipment need not. With this option, there will be no problems with the water supply of the bathhouse.
You can also use the option of adding heating cables to the pipes. The option is expensive and not always reliable for the reason that an emergency shutdown of the lights will reduce all efforts to zero. With this option, it is necessary to install uninterruptible power supplies, which also costs money.
Many masters use various options and schemes to ensure that water flows without problems, but not everyone achieves the result. Therefore, if a bathhouse is used in winter, it must be heated as a dwelling all winter or everything must be drained down to a small drop, which is also not entirely realistic. Therefore, in winter you can refuse to use the bathhouse completely.
The ability to use a bathhouse in winter is a huge advantage, but as already mentioned, arranging such an opportunity requires temporary and material costs. Schematically, the algorithm for constructing water supply can be represented as follows:
For uninterrupted operation pump, on which the flow of water depends, the following main points should be taken into account:
A special water heating device will heat the water. They are divided into capacitive and flow-through. The capacitive device makes it possible to save and receive hot water. After heating the water, it will be maintained optimal temperature. Given the high energy consumption, it is necessary to make reliable wiring in the bathhouse. At severe frosts To avoid pipes freezing, the water must be drained. The disadvantages of this option include the need for additional costs and difficulty in operation. But if all the requirements for winter water supply are met, then you can enjoy the delights of the steam room at any time of the year and in any weather.
We won’t talk about centralized water supply; everything is simpler and quite clear there. Concerning autonomous systems water supply, then regardless of the water source option: a well or a well, it is necessary to install a pump for water supply. This is a very important question; you need to choose the equipment correctly.
It is necessary to start choosing equipment not with the brand or power, but with the type of pump. You need to decide which motor to take: deep-sea submersible or surface. It is very important to submit the water to a laboratory for chemical testing: drinking water or technical, whether there are impurities and what they are, find out the chemical composition of water. This is necessary in order to understand the peculiarities of filter devices.
Calculating the debit of the water source and the volume of water consumption will allow you to choose the right pump. Surface pumps can be:
Submersible pumps come in several types; they are installed at sufficiently deep sources:
A submersible pump better satisfies the needs for water, volume and pressure of the water column.
Having considered pumps by submersion type, let's focus on the design types:
If there is an option to use either submersible or surface, compare their capabilities and characteristics to decide. The main thing that can be said about the surface motor:
A deep-sea or submersible pump is characterized as follows:
As for pipes, metal-plastic pipes are considered the most optimal.
The source of water supply is the basis of the entire water supply system. Aquifers can be divided into the following main categories:
You can take water to supply the bathhouse from an ordinary well, Abyssinian well, artesian well, filter well.
The well is an economical option with a simple design. The depth of the wells reaches twenty meters, depending on the occurrence of layers of water. The advantages of this option include:
The disadvantages of the well are as follows:
The Abyssinian well is a source with a depth of four to fifteen meters. The advantages of this option include the following:
The disadvantages of the structure are as follows:
A filter well, as a rule, reaches a depth of no more than twenty-five meters. Drilling such a well is economically less expensive than an artesian one, but it will function for no more than two decades. The strengths of this design include:
The disadvantages of a filter well are the following:
An artesian well is very deep, it can reach fifty meters. Drilling will require large expenses, as special equipment is needed. But the quality of water and the durability of the structure will cover all costs. The advantages of the well include the following nuances:
But it should also be said about the disadvantages:
If you have a choice, decide which source of water you need.
To summarize all of the above, we can highlight the main stages of development:
You can make plumbing in a bathhouse yourself, the main thing is to take into account all the tips and recommendations experienced craftsmen. If you still have questions about how to do everything correctly yourself, watch the video instructions for installing water supply in a bathhouse.
