In our guide, we will tell you how to make an outdoor grill and barbecue oven out of brick yourself. Step-by-step instructions with photos of the construction process will help you understand the details of the independent masonry of this structure.
As a result, you should have a barbecue grill as shown in the photo below.
So, you have decided on the type of grill, its size and location. Now you need to build a foundation for it.
Usually such buildings are made on the street, in a gazebo or on a terrace. If the foundation of the gazebo or terrace can support the weight of a brick stove, which is about 3 tons, then you can start construction right away. If you are going to build a barbecue from scratch, then first of all pour a suitable foundation for it: strip or tile.
You will find instructions for building such foundations in our section ““.
The next step will be to install waterproofing under the brick grill. This is done to prevent the lower bricks from getting wet by capillary suction. It will be enough to lay a roll of roofing felt or waterproofing material. At the end of construction, cut off the excess with a knife.
Let's proceed directly to laying the barbecue.
We recommend that you first lay out the first row of bricks without mortar and evaluate how your future structure fits onto the foundation. Do not forget to leave 1 cm gaps between the bricks. Also check the diagonals, they must match.
After this, you can start laying the barbecue. The facing brick is placed on a cement-sand mortar (cement-sand ratio 1:3). To make the solution plastic, add lime or a special masonry plasticizer from the nearest hardware store. The seams are made with dimensions of 8-10 mm, for this they use a metal rod, reinforcement, etc. In places where bricks abut without ligation, the masonry is reinforced with perforated tape, wire, etc.
We make masonry with each subsequent row offset by half a brick. To cut bricks you will need a grinder with a stone disc.
We continue to lay out the barbecue grill.
Do not forget to check the verticality of the masonry in the corners at least every 3 rows. Also, check that the lengths of the diagonals of the grill match.
We continue laying.
After you have completed 8 rows of masonry, it is time to make lintels for the barbecue and table top. They should look like the ones shown in the photo below.
You can make such jumpers in several ways.
First, you can hold the bricks together with metal pins and mortar.
Secondly, you can use metal corners.
In our case, we used the second method. We stacked the corners together in an inverted T shape and sawed off half of the shelf. This is what happened.
Take a corner with a size of at least 45x45 mm. A smaller corner will sag. But don’t take it too big so that it doesn’t protrude beyond the edges of the brick.
Make the slot in the brick with a good margin so that the metal does not tear the masonry when heated.
This shelf is invisible to the eye, reliable and beautiful.
We begin to lay it out under (the bottom) of the grill. For the firebox we use refractory fireclay bricks. We do the masonry using a ready-made fireproof mixture from a building supermarket made of clay and sand. Can be used mortar. We make the seams as thin as possible, approximately 3-4 mm.
We use corners to support the bottom of the grill. Remember to leave at least 1 cm of space between the ends of the corners and the brick. This way you will protect the masonry from cracking when the corner expands.
On the first row of the bottom of the firebox we place the second row, covering all the seams of the first. This will prevent the seams from burning out and coals from getting onto the firewood in the firewood box from below. You can, of course, fill concrete slab instead of corners and the first row of the firebox. But in our case it was cheaper and faster to do it this way.
If you fill concrete floor, then one row of refractory bricks for the bottom of the firebox is enough.
We continue to lay out the walls of the grill.
The laying of facing bricks and fireboxes can be done either in parallel or alternately. You can first make the walls of the firebox, and then cover it with facing bricks.
Important! We leave a gap of 1 cm between the facing and refractory bricks. The firebox and the cladding should not touch.
We lay the following rows of the barbecue oven.
We are approaching the moment of constructing the combustion arch. We make a circle (an arc structure made of wood) and install it in the barbecue portal. Then we lay the arch, cutting the bricks to required sizes. We place a brick castle in the middle of the top point. The arch is ready.
Note! The arch made of face brick is covered from the inside with a lintel made of fireclay brick. It is placed on a metal corner slightly above the top of the arch so that it is not noticeable. It looks like this.
The arch is assembled, we continue to remove the walls of the barbecue grill.
Don't forget to check the verticality of the masonry.
We are approaching the moment of constructing the smoke collector.
We bring the top of the firebox and the lining to one level and begin to lay out the smoke collector. The masonry is made from solid brick of a grade not lower than M150. Place it on a cement-sand mortar. We place the first row flush with the inner wall of the firebox. We lay the remaining rows offset by about a third of the brick.
Do not move the bricks more than halfway, otherwise they will fall inside the firebox.
We lay the smoke collector until there is no hole left for the chimney measuring 27x27 cm, taking into account the seams. Your chimney size may differ from ours. In this case, make a smoke collector according to the size of your chimney.
Some stove makers cut off the inner edges of the bricks so that the smoke collector is smooth from the inside. We have the same differences in operation between smooth and ribbed inner surface the smoke collector was not noticed. Of course, this is only true if you have followed correct proportions between the sizes of the portal - smoke collector - pipe (read about the proportions below).
This is what the smoke collector looks like without trimmed bricks from the inside.
We continue laying the pipe. Its dimensions depend on the size of your barbecue grill.
After finishing the chimney laying, we cover it with a cap to protect the firebox from precipitation.
We successfully built a barbecue grill, aka a brick barbecue oven, with our own hands! Wait until the solution dries and you can do a test run.
Here we will look at the most frequently asked questions about masonry. brick barbecue(grill) with your own hands and answers to them.
The size of the smoke collector depends on the size of the firebox portal. Optimal ratio should be at least 100-120%. So in our step by step instructions the height of the portal is 6 rows, and the height of the smoke collector is 8 rows.
The height of the pipe is proportional to the height of the smoke collector and is at least 100-120% of its height.
The cross-section of the chimney pipe depends on the area of the firebox portal. The optimal chimney area is 1/8 - 1/10 of the portal area. Extreme sizes from 1/6 to 1/13.
In front, around the portal, you can fill the gap with basalt cardboard. There is no point in filling the rest of the space. Therefore it is left empty.
Country holidays on Sundays in in most cases associated with cooking delicious meat, fish and vegetable dishes on hot coals. Of course, you can always a quick fix organize a small barbecue, even by simply digging a hole in the ground and coming up with some crossbars for a net or skewers. But, you must admit, the products will be prepared of much higher quality and tastier, with less fuel consumption, if special structures are used - barbecue, grill or barbecue.
In general, it would probably be a sin for owners of suburban areas not to have such devices, stationary or portable, at their disposal. The stores offer a fairly wide selection of such devices welded from metal. However, if the owner of the site has at least basic skills in carrying out construction work or in processing and welding metal, it probably won’t be a particularly big problem for him to build a barbecue with his own hands, of varying degrees of complexity.
First of all, we need to figure out what we should get if the goal is to create a barbecue.
The etymology of this name is not entirely clear - there are several versions of its origin. The most plausible option seems to be one that connects him Withancient Greek, and then the Latin word “barbarus”, which meant an alien, a stranger, alien to culture. In our language, the word gradually transformed into “barbarian”.
Perhaps the method of cooking of these semi-wild nomadic tribes - barbarians - on open fires or in stone cave hearths formed the basis of the established name. But, you must admit that we all really, really like this “barbaric” method!
Have you decided to build a barbecue oven?
But before moving on to the article about barbecue, be sure to read how to lay a brick -.
In addition, the tandoor is an excellent solution! You can also read about DIY projects on our portal.
But the question immediately arises - there are many recipes for cooking on the grill, on the grill or using barbecue culinary technology. What is the difference, what is the subtlety that distinguishes one from the other?
By and large, the difference is small, but it still exists.
The simplest in the “family” is a regular grill This, as you can see, is the simplest of the listed devices. Cooking meat on it requires some skill, since the heat comes only from below, and it is important not to overcook or overdry the side of the food facing the fire.
Hot air in a closed volume is distributed more evenly, and the frying process occurs simultaneously on all sides. Of course, combustion requires channels for air intake and smoke outlets, so grills are often supplemented with a small pipe.
For a barbecue you need a fireplace that is closed on three sides... Another option is when there is always a side around the barbecue grill, a wall that does not allow the heat to immediately disperse to the sides from the slightest breeze.
...or the grate is surrounded by a side wall that retains the heat at a certain height from the products being fried The walls of this side or hearth also heat up and participate in the cooking process. It turns out to be a kind of thermal cushion that envelops the product from the bottom and from the edges, and in the case of a hearth type of barbecue, also to some extent from above. It is clear that in such conditions the meat cooks faster, and there is much less risk of drying it out or even burning one of the sides than on the grill. As a rule, on all barbecues one or another possibility of adjusting the height of the grate above the coals is thought out.
Artificial draft is not created in a barbecue - the slower it moves hot air- all the better. In a hearth-type barbecue, of course, you cannot do without organizing smoke removal, but the pipe should not be high - usually from the level of the fryer to the top tip - no more than one and a half meters.
Honestly, all three of these culinary devices are so “related” to each other that very often they can easily and simply transform into one another. For example, a grate installed or suspended below the level of the walls of the barbecue immediately transforms it into a barbecue. And if you close the lid on the barbecue or close the hearth door, then, accordingly, you can cook according to grill technology.
Perhaps the reader will object to such a gradation of devices for cooking over an open fire and coals, since there are a lot of different opinions expressed on this matter on the Internet. However, later in the article we will consider those options for manufacturing or constructing a barbecue roaster that meet the criteria described above.
BBQ Forester
Options will be considered in sequence from simple to complex, from temporary to portable braziers, and then to stationary complexes.
This option is available to literally everyone, even people completely incompetent construction skills. The method of constructing such a barbecue grill itself is in many ways reminiscent of a child's game of blocks.
To work you will need:
— About a hundred bricks (item 1). Their number may be smaller - it all depends on the height of the future “structure”.
— Metal sheet (item 2) and grille (item 3). The size of these elements should be approximately equal. In fact, their length and width will determine the size of the fryer.
The laying will be carried out “dry”, that is, no mortar will not need.
A similar roasting pan can be left on the site on summer period, but if there are fears that bricks and metal parts may simply be “taken away” in the absence of the owners, then not difficult at all disassemble it to cover the materials in the utility room. If necessary, building a barbecue again will not cost a ton and will not take much time.
If the owner of the house has good skills in metal processing and welding, then very good option can become a portable barbecue model. The task will be further simplified if there are old unnecessary metal barrels or gas cylinders.
In principle, you can even do without welding - this is the option that will be discussed. The pictures in the left column of the table can be viewed in more detail by enlarging them with a mouse click.
| Image | Description |
|---|---|
 | Take the usual standard metal barrel in a good condition. It is important that flammable products (for example, gasoline) are not stored in it beforehand. External markings are immediately made on the barrel - two parallel lines between the bottom and the lid. The area to be cut should be approximately ⅓ of the surface. The figure shows markings made with two strips of electrical tape (blue arrows). Pay attention to the location of the filler neck of the barrel - almost at the level of the far marking line, with a slight shift back (red arrow). This is important as the neck will then be used for the chimney. |
 | The transverse cutting lines are marked approximately 50 mm from the flanging joints of the lid and bottom, and must run strictly parallel to them. Then, using a grinder, the intended window is cut out. It is very important to make the cuts as evenly and accurately as possible, since the cut fragment will be used as a lid, and the gaps when closing it will have to remain minimal. |
 | Further work will be easier if you immediately build a stand for the future barbecue. There can be a lot of options here, but as an example we can give a simple design that does not require welded joints. The diagram is shown in the figure. You will need pieces of pipe Ø 40 mm - 4 pieces with a length of 750 ÷ 800 mm (this height will ensure the most comfortable use of the fryer), and 2 pieces with a length equal to the length of the barrel placed on the horizontal surface with the addition of another 150 mm for the top fastening units. The legs are connected to the crossbars with bolts, for which holes are drilled in the pipes (shown by the arrow) |
 | Now it’s time to make jumpers that will add rigidity to the structure of the stand. It will be cheaper and easier to make them wooden, or more precisely, plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm. To do this, two strips 700 mm long and two 900 mm long are cut out, with a total width of 150 mm. In two of them, using a core drill, holes Ø 42 ÷ 45 mm are selected, equidistant from the center and the distance between the intended centers of the holes is 500 mm. In the other two, the holes are the same, but the distance between their centers is increased to 750 mm. This will give the legs a slight inclination, which will increase the strength of the structure. The first pair of plywood blanks is placed on the tube legs of both metal halves of the frame (blue arrow). For greater rigidity, the jumpers are connected to each other using self-tapping screws with a crossbar, also made from strips of plywood (red arrow). By the way, this jumper can be made wide - then it will also serve as a fairly convenient utility shelf. |
 | Now - how to fix this wooden spacer lintel on required height? The easiest way is to attach ordinary clamps to each of the legs - they will not allow the plywood parts to fall down. It is important to place this unit no closer than 400mm from the top rails to wooden parts did not get burned from the heat when using the barbecue. Such fixation with clamps will allow, if necessary, to quickly disassemble the entire structure by simply loosening the nuts and removing the parts from the legs. The lower jumpers are installed in a similar way, in which the holes are spaced slightly wider. The height of their location is 100 ÷ 150 mm from ground level. There is no need to connect them with a cross member. |
 | That's it, the barbecue stand is ready. You can place the barrel on top and continue working. The barrel cylinder stood securely between the metal crossbars (blue arrow), and its ends rested against connecting nodes(red arrow), which excludes its movement in any direction. Under the weight of the barrel, the entire structure of the stand, located at a slight slope, will finally wedge inward and will be motionless. |
 | We continue to work on the barrel itself. The main tools are a drill, a screwdriver, and wrenches, since all connections will be threaded. It is undesirable to use aluminum rivets, since the thermal resistance of this metal is low. First of all, brackets are installed on which the frying grid will be laid out. These are ordinary steel corners, bolted just below the level of the cut opening on one side - and horizontally to them - on the opposite side. Placement of corners - depending on the size and rigidity of the existing grille, so as to ensure its reliable installation with support at least on all four corners, and if necessary, with additional corners to avoid deflection. |
 | Most often, a collapsible grate of two halves is used - it is easier to install it in the cavity of the barrel. The figure shows just such an option. Arrows indicate installed brackets. |
 | It's time to tackle the hinged lid. On the back, high part of the opening, ordinary steel screws are attached window hinges(non-separable). |
 | The second half of the loops is screwed to the fragment cut out earlier from the barrel. It is necessary to very accurately measure the location of the hinges so that the resulting lid fits exactly to the size of the window and closes it as tightly as possible in the lower position. |
 | Now the chimney is next (red arrows). The plug in the drain neck is removed, and a threaded coupling of the appropriate diameter is screwed in instead. so as to form a protruding threaded pipe (item 1). A 90° bend (item 2) is screwed onto it, to which you can then connect a low pipe, placing it in such a way that the exhaust smoke does not become a hindrance for the person preparing food. At the bottom of the end of the barrel, it is additionally fashionable to make an adjustable blower (blue arrows). To do this, several holes Ø 10 ÷ 12 mm are drilled (item 3), and a damper is placed higher on the axle bolt, which can be used to regulate the flow of air into the firebox. This can be especially important when cooking in grill mode, since if the lid of the frying pan is closed, combustion without oxygen may simply stop. |
 | The final touches remain. The chimney pipe is being installed (blue arrow). There must be a handle that will open the lid of the barbecue. It is advisable to make it from a material that will not heat up too much. The options may be different, for example, as shown in the figure (orange arrow). If you wish, after preliminary cleaning you can coat the top of the barrel with special heat-resistant paint. The master who made the barbecue about which the story was told additionally attached a thermometer (red arrow) to the surface of the lid, allowing you to monitor temperature conditions during cooking in the grill mode. Essentially, the barbecue assembly is complete. |
Similar or to a certain extent modified, according to the wishes and imagination of the master, barbecues can be made from old gas cylinders. (At the same time, care must be taken when cutting the container for the first time, since there may be an explosive residual concentration of gas inside. It is recommended to rinse the container several times with water, and make the first cut also in a water-filled state).
A creative approach makes it possible to significantly expand the functionality of the manufactured structure. For example, it is easy to provide an additional “option” for the smokehouse by installing an additional chamber at the smoke outlet from the main roaster. Another option is to install a separate combustion chamber below, which will be used specifically in the smoking mode of products. And to maintain the required temperature and smoke concentration required for smoking, an adjustable damper is installed on the chimney. A clear example of such a barbecue grill model with the ability to switch to smoking mode is in the attached video.
If the structure turns out to be heavy, then it can be equipped, for example, with a single-axle wheel drive. This will allow you to easily move it around the site or put it in a barn or garage when it is not in demand.
Those owners of country mansions who they love solidity and solidity, they will probably prefer something more monumental, stationary, built of brick for years. Well, in this matter, there is nothing impossible for the independent construction of a barbecue grill or even a whole complex or, in other words, a barbecue area.
First of all, you need to decide on a location. A number of rules are taken into account:
Once the location has been chosen, construction begins. And it always begins with the construction of the foundation.
BBQ GREIVARI
Any brick stationary structure always has considerable mass, which means it requires a reliable foundation. In the case of building a garden barbecue stove, you can use both strip and slab, monolithic foundation, but the second one is still preferable. It is recommended to pave the area around, one way or another, and this will already be the basis for, for example, laying ceramic tiles. In addition, a monolithic foundation, even with a slight depth, will be a stable foundation for the structure being built.
Now all that remains is to wait for the slab to harden and gain the necessary strength. The first 3 are recommended — Regularly moisten the surface for 4 days and protect it from drying out and cracking, covering it with plastic wrap. The formwork can be removed in a week, but further construction work can begin earlier than after 3 weeks - by this time the concrete should gain about 70% of the strength necessary to withstand the increasing load of brick walls.
On the finished foundation you can build the chosen one. We will not consider overly complex complexes. For a novice builder, one of the fairly simple models, which, nevertheless, have good functionality, will be enough.
Any person with basic mason skills should be able to assemble such a stationary barbecue roaster. There is nothing complicated - no ordering is even required. The given diagram will be sufficient, which can be taken as a basis and, if desired, changed in terms of the dimensions of the building or its individual elements.
The design can be changed a little. For example, the photograph above shows that several levels of placement of the roasting pan and grates are provided, respectively, by several rows of transverse laying of bricks. In addition, transverse bricks protruding from the outside can become a support for side tables, which are very convenient for preparing and cutting food right at the barbecue. To do this, it is easy to lay out another brick wall on one or even both sides.
This simple barbecue grill does not involve directional smoke exhaust. True, if such a structure is supposed to be placed in a gazebo, then you can hang a smoke-collecting hood on top, like kitchen hood, and then draw a conclusion from it.
The task can be somewhat complicated - build a barbecue with the hearth and chimney completely closed on three sides. It is clear that labor intensity and total costs here they will be significantly higher, but the building itself already looks much more solid and can become a decoration of the site.
There’s probably no need to say a lot here in words - much more information will be provided by the detailed order of the masonry. All that remains is to make some notes on it:
Continuation of the scheme - ordering from the tenth row to the very top of the pipe As you can see, in this case there is nothing critically complicated: the main thing is consistency, extreme accuracy and accurate calculation when laying each row, with mandatory control of the horizontal and vertical walls.
Again, this structure can be basic, around which it will be easy to attach cutting tables.
Well, those who still want to build a more complex complex on their own, with wide functionality, with a stove, oven or cauldron for cooking pilaf, are invited to familiarize themselves with the detailed video instructions. This will help you quickly assess your funds and construction capabilities in order to accept correct solution by choosing an acceptable model.
From time immemorial, stoves were the first civilizational devices for cooking food over fire, naturally after fires. Nowadays they are increasingly found in villages and are less often used for summer cottages. can be an excellent helper and a sign of a good owner. Especially a homemade oven. There are different types of street fires. Let's take a closer look at some types brick ovens-barbecues.
The barbecue itself may be mobile, stationary or electric. A barbecue stove for a summer residence is a stationary one, although it is quite mobile compared to other types. Its advantages: can be equipped with special cutting areas for preparing products for cooking, fuel storage space, if not placed under cover. An example of the design can be seen in the photo. 
The best material for DIY construction is fire brick. Firebox and lower smoke channels are made of fireclay bricks. If the structure for the dacha is planned to be placed in an already installed or, you need to properly prepare foundation. If the floor in the gazebo has already been created, the most the best option will place the stove next to the gazebo, since its structure will weigh hundreds of kilograms. If the gazebo is located on concrete base , the foundation loses its relevance.
You can make a barbecue stove for your dacha yourself.
Required tools:
Calculation of materials according to the drawing H1600xW1565xD830 mm:
First of all, the foundation is created with your own hands. Foundation pit – 40 cm., of which half are sand and gravel cushion. Reinforcement frame is required.
Read also: Brick grill in the gazebo
First you need to prepare a detailed drawing.
If you often spend time with friends, love meat or fish, then you simply need a brick barbecue. This functional feature will allow you to cook even large pieces of meat, turning them into a delicious, aromatic dish. We invite you to get acquainted with the design features of detailed buildings and the sequence of their construction.
Modern complexes usually include more than three fireboxes. Their dimensions are determined at the project development stage. This device makes the barbecue oven multifunctional. A Russian stove with an oven, a brick barbecue, and a smokehouse are provided. There are other possible options. There are three or more channels, which, thanks to the valve system, can be isolated from each other.
The barbecue includes a grate installed 20-25 cm below the level of the side walls. The coal tray is solid, which provides sufficient draft. The coal smolders, so gradual, even cooking occurs. various dishes. The height of the walls ensures the formation of a warm air-smoke cushion, due to which the prepared food acquires a characteristic smoky aroma.
When choosing a barbecue location, a number of factors are taken into account. It should be located:
It is advisable to locate the complex away from the house (at a distance of at least 5 m). At the same time, at a minimum distance from the kitchen, so that the housewife can cook comfortably. It is advisable to pave the complex using either brick. Coat all wooden elements with fire retardant.
Having decided to purchase ready set brick barbecue for the dacha, pay attention to the barbecue oven:
Before you buy a brick barbecue, please note that reviews on ready-made designs not always positive.
More details on ForumHouse: https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/199413/
Among the many variety of options The most popular barbecues are:
Complexes are performed angular and frontal. They can have many elements, the need for which in each specific case is determined individually. Judging by the drawings and photographs, the dimensions of a front-type brick barbecue are usually 3.7 × 1.3 m, corner ones - 2.5 × 3 m. Good design may include not only a roasting pan, but also a smokehouse, an area intended for preparing food, various cabinets and much more.
Attention! Choice in favor large complex will allow you to diversify the list of prepared dishes.
Frontal complex with wide functionality If you decide to make a brick barbecue on your own, projects from already implemented solutions will come in very handy. We invite you to get acquainted with popular options that can be recreated on.
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When starting to build a brick barbecue oven with your own hands, you need to prepare properly. You will need not only materials and tools, but also precise knowledge of the technology and drawings in accordance with which the work will be carried out. We suggest you figure out how to independently build such a building on your site.
When choosing materials for construction, you need to know which brick to use for a barbecue. You will need red and fireclay. The latter is intended for laying the firebox.
Attention! The required amount of brick depends on the design features and dimensions of the stove being built.
You will also need:
When starting to develop a drawing of a brick barbecue with your own hands, consider the following points:
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Team leader of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"
Ask a Question“When starting to develop a drawing of a brick barbecue with your own hands, download ready-made solutions for free. They can be used as a basis."
The service life of a brick barbecue in a gazebo depends on the quality of the base. Work begins with preparing the pit. For this they remove fertile layer and remove the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm.
Attention! The dimensions of the foundation being laid depend on the size and design features of the barbecue. They should be 0.5 m more sizes stoves in all directions.
| Illustration | Description of action |
 | A fifteen-centimeter layer of medium-fraction crushed stone is poured and compacted onto the leveled bottom of the pit. Pour a small layer of concrete. Let's do it. To do this, we drive the rods at equal distances, and also lay them lengthwise and crosswise, tying them at the intersection point. |
 | We pour concrete to the level of the pit, cover it with a metal sheet on top and leave it for three days. The sheet should be laid on the bricks to prevent its contact with the poured mortar. |
 | We set up the formwork and continue pouring the base. |
If you want to learn the sequence yourself, watch this video.
Dark red clay is selected for laying the stove. It is soaked for a day before preparing the solution and mixed thoroughly every other day. Sand is added to the soaked clay in a ratio of 1:2. To increase plasticity, glue for stoves and fireplaces is added to the composition (about 3% of the volume). The composition is thoroughly mixed. You can start laying.
Heat-resistant bricks are used for the firebox and chimney. The formation of the pipe usually starts from the 18th row. In each of them, a quarter of the brick is removed to narrow the hole. This is done up to the 28th row. should be equipped with a valve.
Attention! Instead of brick, let's install a metal box.
We think you will find the following video with instructions interesting.
When starting the exterior design, you should coordinate the finishing with the style of the house and other buildings located on the site. All elements of the complex should have a single decor.
Not everyone can carry out the entire range of work on their own. But many are interested in the price of a turnkey brick barbecue. Here everything will depend on many factors, including the size of the building and its design features. If you decide to order a brick barbecue, pay attention to average cost popular models.
