Hello dear craftswomen! Today I present to you how to make tree models with your own hands. I never thought that I would have to do this. The fact is that such trees were ordered for me by my dad, who makes models of Temples and churches. I promised to promise, but I don’t know how to do it! But the promise is made - it must be fulfilled. I found the video and got to work. The video on which I made my trees can be viewed here - http://yandex.ru/video/search?filmId=1IwlFm7AUXI&text=%D0%BC%D0%B0%D0%BA... . I decided to show you how I made them, especially since very often either at school or in kindergarten They ask you to make some kind of craft on a particular topic, and then my MK and the author’s video will certainly help you in this matter.
I got this tree and a few more. I’ll be honest: I didn’t think that making trees would be so exciting. Dad asked for two trees, I got carried away and made 4.
For work we will need: fine wire, a sponge for washing dishes or ordinary foam rubber, any lid or cardboard on which we will wind our wire, pliers that are usually used in beading and green paint of different shades.
We wind the wire around the lid. For one tree, approximately 8-10 m high, one coil is enough. But if you want a thicker trunk and a more branchy tree, then you can use more wire. Having wound the wire in this way, cut it at one end.
Let's straighten it out.
Below we leave a centimeter and a half - two for the roots. They will continue to serve as a stand for our tree.
At the bottom we straightened the roots, twisting several wires into one. Next, we begin to form our crown, starting with the lower branches. To do this, separate 6-7 wires from the clouds and twist them in a spiral until about halfway. Next, we divide our wires in half and continue to twist them separately.
Then on each branch we leave one alone, and then twist two at a time. This is how it is shown in the photo.
Using the same principle, we make 3-4 more lower branches.
So that the branches of the second tier do not come into contact with the branches of the lower tier, we scroll the trunk up a little more.
We make a second tier of branches, scroll the trunk again and form the top in the same way as we did the rest of the branches. This is what we should get.
And this is the skeleton of the future birch tree.
Here is our tree completely covered with PVA glue (as if covered with snow. We leave our tree until completely dry, for about 2-3 hours. As soon as our tree is completely dry, we begin to paint it. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of the painting process, but you can see it in the video. There is nothing complicated here. We paint the trunk and branches either with brown acrylic, or, if it is a birch, with light gray with black dots.
Next we paint our future crown. For this purpose, I took a dishwashing sponge and plain white foam. I poured some water into a bowl and added some acrylic paint in different shades. I squashed it in water so that the sponge colored evenly.
She wet the sponge again and, without squeezing it out, began applying paint to the sponge with a brush: first with one shade, then with another, then with a third. It is enough to apply a little paint on one side.
And then just squeeze it in your hand, putting a glove or plastic on your hand. The sponge, as you can see, is colored unevenly, which is what we need. Since the sponge was yellow, it gave us an extra shade of yellow. This is what we got.
We squeeze out excess water from our sponge and place it on the battery until completely dry.
And this shade was obtained by dyeing ordinary white foam rubber. As you can see, this one is greener. The first, lighter sponge was used as foliage for the birch tree.
dipped in crumbs. And so on every branch. Then she let it dry, shook off what didn’t stick. Then she applied glue to the branches again, but not with a brush, but simply dripped drops from the bottle and added little by little crumbs and again until completely dry. And so on several times. This is of course more troublesome, so it is better to do as the author advises.
Not long ago I became interested in making models for the railway on a scale of 1:87 BUT
The first experience is visible in the photographs. It looks more like a palm tree...
Some options were more attractive
It looks like a deciduous tree. There are even leaves there.
For production, wire of different diameters is taken. For the trunk 1.5 - 2.5 squares, for winding branches thin.
A thin wire is wound around the trunk, from which branches periodically move away. So little by little there is no thin wire left towards the top and the tree naturally becomes thinner. This technology is best suited for deciduous trees with a gradually thinning trunk.
The pine trunk is made a little differently. The wire is being wound, but the branches move away and come back, and the winding continues. This way you get a uniform pine trunk. You can gradually reduce the amount of thinning wire. You can also wind the branches additionally, regardless of the winding of the trunk. Here is an example of such a winding of a pine tree growing in an open space.
Next, I sprinkle the trunk with fine sand and glue and paint it with acrylic paint.
The needles are formed using "grass" for the "seeder" called gross. Next it is sprinkled with fine peat. This came to me later. Here is an example of such a pine, by the way, finished from the above blank:
I like this option better.
Here with the trailer.
Deciduous trees are additionally sprinkled with small leaves, which are also sold in model stores. For deciduous trees there is various options sprinkles, many are very realistic, but they are not always on sale...
For making wood you will need the following tools and components:
a) a piece of copper stranded power wire, 200-250 mm long, the more wire there is, the better. Optimal diameter beam 5-8 mm.
b) a wallpaper knife or scalpel, or a blade for removing insulation from a wire,
c) tweezers, to give the desired shape to the formed branches,
d) scissors, for cutting branches to the required length,
e) paints, nitro varnish, hairspray, brush, small sawdust, foam crumb powder, photo or drawing of a type of tree.
Stripped of isolation stranded power wire. Too much long length should not be used, as it will be difficult to work with, and the excess will simply go to waste!
Stepping back from one of the edges 20-30 mm, we wind the coil to the coil there will be a root system a 3-5 mm wire, here we have it, and this lock is needed so that the future barrel does not unwind.
Holding the end of the wire at the level of the latch with the fingers of one hand, with the other hand twist the wire along the axis . This is done to stiffen the trunk.
Depending on the type of tree chosen, we begin to form branches by bending 6-8 wires to the side and immediately twisting them, as we did with the trunk. At the level of the first, lower branches, it is advisable to install another wire bandage, as we did at the root. No more bandages should be installed.
Bending back required quantity future branches, make 1-2 turns of the trunk along the axis. Thereby We fix the trunk and prepare a place for new branches.
As the wires move to the sides, the thickness of the trunk decreases, there is nothing terrible about this, and if more branches are needed, then simply insert pieces of wires either into the middle of the trunk, or into a bundle for a future branch, twisting 5-10 mm at the base of the trunk.
Thus, we have it turned out to be a shaggy “hedgehog” made of wire.
Now let's begin form the branches themselves, twisting the wires along their axis and moving them to the sides.
Periodically looking at the photo or a picture of a tree, or just one growing under a window, we decide on their size.
It should be remembered that fruit trees usually short, and representatives of forested areas and lonely standing trees usually tall.
Method changes in the angle of deflection of branches, using tweezers, you can shape the type of future tree . Willow, for example, has long branches and hang down in strands; oak branches extend from the trunk almost perpendicular to the trunk, just like spruce. Birch, depending on its type, can hang down like a willow.
Having finished forming the branches, let's move on to the root system. To do this, bend 2-4 wires from the wire bandage in all directions and twist them. If you need a central fastener, then simply twist 4-6 wires and do not trim them. With this pin, the tree is subsequently attached to the layout. And I myself root system cut in circles with scissors.
Now Let's move on to the length of the branches. Near the ground, and this is the first bottom row, they either almost touch the ground or do not reach it. I repeat, it all depends on the type of wood chosen! But the cutting of wire branches begins from the bottom, smoothly moving to the crown. Now the wire bands can be carefully removed from the trunk. They have already done their job and are no longer needed!
It takes about 15-20 minutes.
Next we move on to priming the wood frame. This is necessary to hide the metallic shine of the wires and ensure uniform coloring of the final color. It is better to use primer in an aerosol can, as it can be inconvenient to paint with a brush, and the layer turns out smoother.
Let the primed wood dry. Now let's apply final bark color. There is one subtlety here! If the bark of a smooth-bore tree is like that of willow, birch, poplar, rowan, or alder, then the final layer can be safely applied. And if the trunk is rough, like pine, oak, linden, then mix small sawdust with PVA glue or nitro varnish and apply it with a brush. visible part trunk and thick branches. Sawdust can be pre-painted in the desired tone. Sawdust can be replaced with gypsum, chalk, but diluted dry in nitro varnish or thick PVA.
Let the trunk dry again. And only after we have finished with the barrel, and are satisfied with its appearance, do we move on to tree landscaping.
Most the best option buy ready-made foam powder. But if you don’t have one, you can do it yourself! To do this, we take foam rubber and pass it several times through a regular meat grinder of the “organ organ” type; I don’t recommend using an electric one, the speeds are high, and the foam rubber can simply burn. You can simply use a brush-type attachment on a drill at low speeds, lightly touching the foam rubber to destroy the surface. Thus, we obtain deciduous material.
Let's move on to coloring of leaf material. It is better to use aniline dyes or gouache, or those that are diluted with water. Dry the leaves on newspaper, lightly squeezing out the lump. In an even layer, spreading on a flat surface.
Back to tree trunk. Apply a thin layer of nitro varnish, or tsaponlak, to the branches with a brush, and, without allowing it to dry, dip or sprinkle the branches with foam rubber powder. Not a lot of leaves will stick the first time! Let it dry, and use a brush to apply nitro varnish to bare areas, and sprinkle again.
We examine the tree from all sides, and where appearance There is not enough foliage, again we compensate for the shortcomings with nitro varnish and powder. There is no need to try to wet the foliage with varnish too much, it will be ugly! Let it stick, let it stick! We can add a portion of powder to the places we need and fix everything with hairspray. We spray varnish from a distance of 250-350 mm, constantly slowly twisting the wood. Before our eyes, the foliage seems to bloom on the tree, takes the desired shape and is fixed on the tree. It is better to use the cheapest hairspray, but with a strong hold.
Let the finished wood dry. You can, of course, leave it like this, but over time, under the influence of light and air humidity, hairspray loses its properties, and so that the tree does not lose its foliage, it is necessary cover it with nitro varnish from an aerosol can, as we did when working with hairspray.
Finished tree install on the layout. If it has a central fastening pin, drill a hole suitable diameter and fix it with glue, if it’s on the root system, just lubricate the lower part of the root with glue and install it on the model.
Better when making trees immediately make the required amount, and your hand gets busy, and operations are much easier and faster.
We continue the theme of paper crafts using 3D technique and today we would like to invite you to make a small 3D composition. The most important thing is that for this kind of crafts you will practically not need material costs. Take plain white paper, scissors and PVA glue and go for new paper achievements!
Let's start with a tree. It is made from three parts cut out of paper according to one template. Only one detail differs from the other two in that a hanging rustic swing was added to this detail.
Print the templates and cut them out. Fold all three pieces in the center. It is along the center line that we will glue them to each other. You need to glue it clearly along the central lines, as shown in the photo. It is thanks to this technique that the tree will become voluminous and we will achieve the effect we need.
The composition is complemented by a snow-white rustic fence and a small rustic toilet with a heart or a month carved into the door - romance! (The only thing missing is a haystack and a Burenka chewing grass).
Along the fold lines, bend and fold the paper toilet, as shown in the photo. Secure with PVA glue.
I really want to ride these hanging swing and be carried away by your thoughts into deep childhood, when the world seemed magical and full of secrets and mysteries!
If our mini project is successfully completed, you will be able to make 3D products from more expensive paper, for example, from scrapbooking paper.
The scenery is an important detail of the model railway. They can be purchased at the store or made by yourself. The big advantage of DIY crafts is realism, as well as saving money. In addition to the trees themselves, a complete landscape requires some shrubs and grass. To make them, you need to prepare the necessary material in advance. Of course, all this can be purchased at a specialized store, but if the model of the railway is large-scale and the number of trees exceeds 100, purchasing them can cost a pretty penny. Moreover, most of the goods presented in the store are distinguished by artificiality, which attracts attention at first sight. Considering all of the above, you can purchase several trees to later compare them with the products self-made and feel the difference specific example, for our part, we will try to make your work as easy as possible by offering detailed instructions. It's just a matter of starting!
Railway will go through a dense forest, so in total we will need 200 - 300 trees. The layout assumes the presence of mountains, so most specimens will be conifers.
After reading the below step by step description, you can easily make an artificial tree and you will find that it is very, very simple to do. However, given the fact that we have to create an entire forest, we need to prepare in advance for the fact that the procedure will take a lot of time.
First, we need to decide on the dimensions, using real trees as samples. Taking into account that the scale is 1:87, the length of the tall tree will be 30 cm, and the lowest 8 cm. In addition, it will be useful to make several stumps to give our forest realistic features.
Required tools:
First of all, rods of the required length are prepared for tree trunks. With the help of a steel knife they are performed very easily, since Cork tree represents a very soft material. Then using sandpaper the rods are shaped into a conical shape, and the remaining dust may be useful later, so it needs to be saved.
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In the second stage, using Carpenter pliers, cut the wire nails into pieces required sizes, after which they are inserted into the wooden blank, and glue is poured into the resulting gap.
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We cut the knitting wire into several pieces from 4 to 10 cm long. They will serve as the basis for branches, as well as small trees and shrubs.
We adjust the branches so that they are the same length on all sides. We start with the lower branches, for which we take the longest 10 cm segments. A little higher we make another row of smaller segments, etc. We also crown the crown with a piece of wire.
At the fifth stage, the branches are fixed with glue. Here you can use special samples or use super glue.
At this stage, we are faced with the task of producing a mixture of clay, water, paint, pigment and sawdust. Here you can also use a latex mixture of brown or black color, mixed with sand and sawdust (remaining from us after the production of wooden trunks at the first stage). Shake the resulting solution thoroughly with a wooden stick until thick. The most important thing is that the mixture is not liquid.
Using a brush, apply the resulting mixture to the trunk and branches and let it dry; if necessary, apply several layers.
Using scissors, we make small strips of fibrous material, and then using wood glue we place them on the branches and let them dry thoroughly.
After the workpiece has dried, we use an aerosol to apply dark green or brown paint to the wood.
At this stage, a layer of glue is applied to the fibers, but it is advisable to avoid getting it on the tree trunk. Considering that some of the material is more liquid, it should be carefully scattered over the entire area of the branch. After this, the tree is given a few minutes to dry, and then using a cotton swab, alcohol or gasoline, it is necessary to remove glue and fibers from the trunk, since needles do not grow on it.
Now the tree can be used as decoration. Considering that a living forest is distinguished by its richness of form and content, it is advisable to paint the trees in different shades to avoid monotony.
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It would be useful to create small details, for example, broken branches, dead wood, so that the work looks natural.
Alternative design.
This technique assumes that the branches are located exclusively on the upper part of the tree, by analogy with pine forests. To do this, several pieces of wire are attached to the barrel, which takes a little time. The branches are fixed using quick-acting glue.
Bark paste is made from latex paint with the addition of brown and black pigment, as well as sand and sawdust remaining after the production of the cone. This allows the wood to look natural, reminiscent of wild specimens.
The next step, as in the first case, is attaching the fibrous material and painting it in green color. In this case, the pine should be larger than the spruce, so that the length of the trunks will reach 25 cm.
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