For bathroom renovations, specially designed and produced Construction Materials with a high degree of protection from moisture, since the humid, warm microclimate of this room with insufficient air circulation is destructive for most coatings.
After performing hygiene procedures or washing, the air is saturated with a large amount of hot steam, which cools and then condenses on the surface of furniture, walls, ceiling and floor. A bathroom hood solves this problem by preserving the finish due to the convection effect. Installing this inexpensive equipment yourself increases the service life of materials without requiring large investments. This article will tell you how to calculate and choose a hood for your bath.
Natural bathroom hood is a system for ensuring air circulation in a sanitary room without installing electrical equipment. It works due to the properties of gases when heated to rise, called the law of convection. Such an exhaust to the bathroom is planned at the stage of creating a room or house project, since it requires the installation of air ducts leading to the attic or roof.
When creating a design for bathroom and toilet hoods, follow the following rules:
Natural exhaust for toilets and bathrooms works according to the law of convection. Warmer air, saturated with water vapor, rises to the ceiling of the sanitary room, enters the air duct, and then is drawn outside due to the difference in external and internal temperatures. The tension that is created during the circulation of air masses is called traction force. To check if it works exhaust ventilation, with your own hands, you need to bring a match to the grate: if the flame deviates towards the channel, then everything is in order.
Principle of operation forced exhaust in the bath is different from natural ventilation. Air circulation in a room equipped with such a system occurs through a fan, which is powered by an electrical network.
Forced exhaust in the bathtub is installed if natural ventilation does not function or the draft force in it is not enough to make the room comfortable for use. To do this, a fan is installed at the entrance to the air duct, which creates a zone with low pressure, drawing air inside the duct. To calculate the required fan power, you need to multiply:
Note! Inside the bathroom high humidity, so use electrical appliance may be unsafe. Therefore, forced exhaust in the bathtub is mounted using moisture-resistant fans. Equipment with the highest protection against moisture penetration is marked with code IP 34.
Forced exhaust for the bathroom is organized through the use of a special ventilation equipment. For this task, professional craftsmen recommend using household fans that remove 60-250 cubic meters of air per hour. These devices can be easily installed with your own hands if they are properly connected to the electrical network. To find out which models are suitable for specific conditions, you need to calculate the volume of the room and the frequency of use of the bath.
Household fans are equipped with the following additional functions for ease of use:
Manufacturers advertising household fans claim that they operate absolutely silently. However, in reality, during operation, the bath hood produces a slight noise, which, when correct installation will be practically invisible.
As a rule, forced exhaust in the bathtub is installed by hired professional craftsmen, since it requires connection to the electrical network. However, with experience and the necessary tool the work can be done with your own hands.
Installation is carried out in the following sequence:
Important! Forced exhaust into the bathtub must have its own switch. Some craftsmen connect it to a switch, which is responsible for lighting, but this is irrational, especially if the device is equipped with automation.
Regular temperature changes and the use of water in the bathroom make it the wettest room in the apartment. Evaporation from hot water settle on horizontal and vertical surfaces in the form of condensation, they create a steam room when taking a shower or bath.
As a result high humidity Mold pockets form on the walls, ceiling and corners. To prevent the development of fungus, the ventilation system is modernized. One way to create a comfortable microclimate is to install equipment such as an extractor hood in the bathroom.
It would seem that stagnation should not exist in a combined bathroom or bathroom, since any living space is equipped with ventilation natural type. Moreover, a properly planned ventilation system is one of the conditions for comfortable water procedures.
If we're talking about O apartment buildings, then the scheme includes through ventilation shafts that end in the attic or technical floor and have exits in all bathrooms and kitchens without exception. Moreover, modern norms and rules recommend separate ventilation ducts for each apartment individually.
Previously, for channel equipment they used brickwork, now these are concrete wells or PVC pipes.
The diagram of the apartment ventilation device shows the lines and exit points of the ventilation holes. The circulation is designed in such a way that air enters some rooms and is removed from others.
Natural ventilation involves spontaneous circulation of air, which exits through openings in the walls or ceiling into a shaft located in the wall ceilings.
Scheme of the structure of a private ventilation system one-story house may differ slightly: most often the shaft begins with a hole in the ceiling and ends with an exit to the roof.
When designing and installing ventilation, the following rules are followed:
The standard scheme for the movement of air masses in a city apartment: fresh air enters through the windows of the rooms, “used” air exits through the ventilation holes in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet
If natural draft does not justify itself, and circulation is not enough to maintain fresh air, forced ventilation is installed - a device that forces air masses to move from the premises to the shaft.
Sometimes the design of a forced system is regulated by sanitary norms and rules (SNiP). For example, if the house has a sauna with an electric stove or steam generator. In this case, we recommend that you apply for special calculations. required capacities fans and pipe diameters to a certified organization. Information can always be found on the websites of your city.
Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to independently determine the condition and efficiency of the ventilation system. The test does not require any special skills or special tools. There are “markers” that make it easy to recognize insolvency natural circulation:
The appearance of mold and mildew is accompanied by an unpleasant odor and gradual destruction decorative finishing walls, however, there is a more serious danger - a negative impact on the health of the apartment owners.
The consequence of insufficient ventilation is the appearance of mold on the grout in the tile joints. If you do not establish air circulation in time and do not get rid of small pockets, the fungus will cover all concrete, plastic, plastered, and wooden surfaces
The ventilation may be faulty. Checking in a simple way- using a lit match. If the flame quickly goes out or leans towards the hood, then the reason lies elsewhere, but if it remains motionless, then it is necessary to clean the shaft and install forced ventilation.
The most popular device that provides maximum air circulation is a fan.
Traditional testing of air movement is not always effective; to accurately determine whether there is a sufficient level of circulation, you should invite a qualified specialist with an anemometer
For self-installation The most suitable fan is inserted into a technical frame and equipped with a hydrostat (humidity sensor). The cost of the device depends on the power, volume of pumped air and availability additional functions.
For example, the simplest electric model with a power of 40 W costs about 3,000 rubles, and a silent German device with touch sensor and a reverse protection valve - 12,000 rubles.
One of the simplest options is an inexpensive centrifugal fan with round without additional equipment, centrally mounted vent
Before starting work on the installation of an electrical device, it is necessary to check whether the ventilation shaft is functioning. A passage that is too narrow, clogged with grease and dust, requires cleaning. The homeowner can clean the channel leading from the apartment to the central riser on his own.
To do this, you need to carefully remove the grille, remove the layer of dust from it, wash it with detergents and dry it. The channel walls covered with dirt can be treated with a scraper or a stiff brush, then thoroughly vacuumed and wiped with a damp cloth.
It will be possible to clean a small section of the ventilation duct, but even preventative work will improve traction.
Small hole diameter makes ventilation duct difficult to access and does not allow for proper cleaning of its walls. Use available materials - hard brushes with handles, pipe cleaners
It will not be possible to clean the central highway yourself, since access to common buildings engineering systems open only to special services. It might make sense to consult with your neighbors and leave a group request to have the main shaft professionally cleaned along the entire length of the riser.
Having provided a path for air to exit the room, you should also take care of the supply ventilation. To do this, it is necessary to create a gap through which replacement air would enter the bath. The greater the distance from the inlet to the hood, the more efficient the ventilation will be.
Sometimes it is enough to make a small, 1.5-2 cm wide gap between the door and the threshold, but if there is not enough traction, in the lower part door leaf a grill should be installed.
In the diagram, red arrows indicate the movement of the supply ventilation. It must have access to the bath, toilet and kitchen, otherwise the circulation will be disrupted and installing a fan will be useless
The last point is the choice of a ventilation device model with suitable characteristics: correctly selected power, noise level, functional indicators. The device must be safe for others and easy to maintain. Preference is usually given modern models with timer and humidity sensor.
The hydrostat (humidity sensor) reacts to high humidity and turns on the device automatically.
Be prepared for the fact that installing an electric hood requires additional construction work, including making a hole in the wall or ceiling, laying cables and subsequent finishing.
The feasibility of one or another connection method depends on the location of the hood, the interior design features and the technical capabilities of the device itself.
Here are the most common options:
It is most convenient to use a fan with automatic control: no force is required: it turns on automatically when the humidity level increases. It can be installed in a wall, in a corner or on the ceiling - in any inaccessible place, because there is no need for daily maintenance.
To install the wiring, a wall is tapped or a box is mounted.
The only disadvantage of such models is the high price.
The most common way to disguise wires is to lay the wires under a layer of ceramic tiles. There is another option - eyeliner in the under-ceiling space, if mounted plastic panels or drywall
Inexpensive models are usually equipped with a power button or a short cord, which must be pulled if necessary. Problems arise if the exhaust vent is located above the toilet, bathtub or high on the ceiling - this complicates access to the device. If a fan of this type is installed during the repair process, the cord is replaced with a switch, which is located within an accessible area, and the lead is inserted into the wall.
Combining the simultaneous activation of a lamp and a fan is convenient, but not always rational: one press activates two devices. The fact is that the air does not always have time to ventilate by the time you leave the bathroom, and leaving the light on for the sake of the fan is uneconomical.
Now there are models with delayed fan shutdown. Typically this is ten minutes by default. Some devices have a minute scale and a lever for self-adjustment. Sometimes there is equipment with a low-power light source - a “night light”, which burns all the time the fan is running.
A common simple solution is a two-key switch - the lights can be turned off, but the fan can be left running, and vice versa.
Diagram of connecting a fan to a lighting source in a bathroom. The switch, as usual, is led out into the corridor, and a distribution box with clamps is additionally installed inside the room
If ceramic tile not yet laid, it is best to hide the wiring under it. In a completely finished room, you will have to use plastic masking boxes. On the background designer tiles They will look out of place, but they will fulfill their main function - ensuring security.
The ideal location for installing the hood is a ventilation hole to ensure natural air circulation, leading to a common riser. It is present in all bathrooms and bathrooms and is usually located in the upper part of the main wall, under the ceiling.
The dimensions of the hole allow (during normal operation of the system) a flow rate of 100 m³/h, which is optimal for small bathrooms or combined bathrooms in brick and panel houses typical building.
Before purchasing a ventilation device, be sure to measure the diameter of the outlet opening, otherwise during installation you will have to further expand or narrow the finished opening
The fan is selected taking into account the size of the outlet. Standard diameter parameters are 10 cm, 12.5 cm, 15 cm, respectively, the fan dimensions should be similar. If you purchased a powerful hood whose dimensions are larger than the hole, then it can be expanded using a hammer drill.
Often the area of bathrooms in private houses and apartments with an improved layout exceeds 10 m², and one ventilation hole becomes not enough. You can equip an additional channel, but you cannot make changes to the engineering layout of the premises yourself; you must contact specialists.
For self-installation, basic knowledge is required construction tool and a detailed instruction diagram, which usually comes with the device. Manufacturers who value their reputation describe the installation process in accessible form and on different languages, accompanying the instructions with clear pictures and diagrams.
The absence of a manual means that the company most likely will not provide guarantees and will not be held responsible for the breakdown of the device.
Bathroom fans are made of lightweight material, have compact dimensions and a high level of protection against moisture ingress
So, having cleaned the ventilation duct, stretched the electrical wires and prepared the hole for installation, we proceed in the following order:
The installation process takes no more than 20 minutes, so we advise you not to rush and carry out all manipulations carefully. If there was a thin mosquito net between the grille and the mechanism, do not forget to put it back. It protects the room from small insects, which sometimes penetrate into the bathroom through the ventilation shaft.
We invite you to watch the video instructions for installing the fan yourself:
Before making a hood in a bathroom or bathroom, you need to select a fan with the required characteristics. A device with insufficient functionality will not be able to provide a comfortable atmosphere in the room, so you should carefully study all the characteristics of the model you like.
The air exchange rate table presents the parameters that are optimal for various residential and utility rooms. Maximum values – in rooms with high level humidity
Pay attention to power. The minimum indicator is 60 m³/h, the maximum is 250 m³/h; installation of devices with a capacity of less than 100 m³/h is not recommended. The humidity protection class is also important; it is usually marked with the letters IP and for special wet areas, for example, bathrooms, has an IP value of 34 and above.
The main protection is the sealed case, so carefully inspect the device at the time of purchase.
If you love comfort and modern technical improvements, pay attention to models with motion sensors, which turn on the mechanism only in the presence of moving objects.
However, a more useful humidity sensor is a hydrostat. With its presence, there is no need to control ventilation completely, since it reacts sensitively to increased humidity and independently controls the process of air circulation.
The power of the bathroom exhaust fan Marley SV-100 is only 1 Watt during constant operation. Touch settings make adjustments easy, and automation makes maintenance easy
The timer is useful for those who like everything in order and are accustomed to independently regulating the operation of electrical appliances. You can set the time most convenient for ventilation, and the device will function when you take a shower or, on the contrary, have finished water procedures.
Another important addition for apartment buildings – check valve. It serves as a barrier to the movement of air from other rooms (kitchen, neighboring apartments). And the last thing that should interest you is the noise level emitted by the device during operation. The maximum comfortable limit is 25 dB.
Tips for choosing a bathroom fan in the following video:
If you are used to making repairs yourself own apartment, understanding the fan structure and its installation is not difficult.
However, we recommend entrusting the construction of a new ventilation duct or cleaning of the central pipeline to specialists.
The problem of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet quite often appears in apartment buildings. Natural ventilation channels in such buildings are often damaged, as a result of which they cannot perform their functions. In addition to this problem, in buildings old building When laying ventilation ducts, air exchange calculations were made taking into account wooden windows, but not plastic, not letting in even a gram of air from outside. Therefore, in order to improve ventilation in the apartment and in the bathroom, in particular, a fan is installed in the bathroom.
Before installing a fan in the bathroom, you need to determine how well the natural exhaust works. This is done in a simple way: take sheet of thin paper or unfold the napkin; open a window in any room; attach the paper to the hood opening. If the napkin is immediately drawn to the hole, this means that natural suction is working correctly. If the napkin does not attract, then you should think about installing a fan in the bathroom.
You can check the efficiency of the hood by holding it close to the hole. lit match or lighter. If the flame deviates strongly towards the channel, then the ventilation is working normally. Otherwise, if the flame deflection is weak or if it burns evenly, an exhaust cooler will be required.
Stagnant air in a bathroom or toilet leads to the formation of high humidity in the room and, as a result, to the appearance of fungus on the walls. How harmful is it to human health? mold, it’s not worth talking about at all.
If you are convinced that the ventilation duct is clogged, you can clear it by lowering a cone-shaped weight into it. If for some reason you cannot do this, contact the utility service, they will tell you which organization you need to apply to.
Before installing a fan in the bathroom, you need to take measurements of the width, height and depth of the vent and write down the data obtained. Based on this information, you should choose fans in the store.
Cooler power calculation is very important before purchasing a hood. By sanitary standards, the air in the bathroom should change 6-8 times within 1 hour, and fans should cope with this task. The power is calculated using the following formula: L = V * K, where L is the volume of air for complete air exchange (m 3 / h), V is the volume of the room, and K is the air exchange coefficient (how many times the air must be changed in 1 hour).
Calculation example: Room length - 2.5 m, width - 3.2 m, height 2.8 m. Find out the volume of the room: V = 2.5 * 3.2 * 2.8 = 22.4 m 3. Next, we substitute the result obtained into the formula: L = 22.4 * 8 = 179.2 m3/h. Based on the calculation, the cooler should pass through 179.2 m3/h of air in 1 hour. When choosing a device, it is recommended to choose a model that will be 20% more powerful than the calculated one. That is, the unit must have power reserve. IN in this case, to install a fan in a toilet or bathroom with such a volume, a cooler with a capacity of 200 m3/h will be sufficient.
These calculations are also relevant if you want to install a fan in the kitchen.
The installation of an exhaust fan in a bathroom is regulated by permissible noise standards. Since increasing the power of the device inevitably increases its noise, when choosing a unit you should adhere to the standard: the sound intensity from the operation of the cooler should not exceed 30 dB.
There are 4 circuits for connecting an exhaust fan in a bathroom. But if you carry out installation work and handling electrical wiring with your own hands, take care, first of all, about safety rules. It is necessary to turn off the required switch on the electrical panel so that there is no voltage on the wiring in the place where you will work.
All circuits are designed for three- or two-wire wiring. If the wiring is two-wire, then the units are connected without grounding.
Wiring diagram for a bathroom fan, which involves connecting to lighting fixture, is quite simple and is shown in the figure below.
The only drawback of this connection is that the ventilation will only work when the light bulb is on.
To avoid the disadvantage described above, there is a way to connect the cooler via a switch. The wiring diagram in this case is also not complicated, and even a non-specialist can understand how to connect a fan in the bathroom to a switch.
To connect equipment according to this scheme, you will need to install two-gang switch. One key will be used when turning on the lighting, the second will be used to start the hood. You will need to run a “zero” wire to the cooler, connecting to the “zero” of the light bulb, which is laid from the junction box. The phase from the distribution box must be brought to the switch and connected to two contacts going to the cooler and the light bulb.
Coolers equipped with a timer are much more convenient to use. But the cost of such equipment is higher. The connection diagram for a fan with a timer is shown below.
A cooler equipped with a timer works according to the following principle:
A fan with a timer is connected using four wires: L – phase from the junction box, LT – wire from the light bulb switch, ground wire and N – “zero”.
If you are planning to install and connect a fan in the bathroom, then you should pay attention to devices equipped with humidity or motion sensors. The operation of such fans in the bathroom and toilet is completely autonomous and does not require any participation from you.
For the toilet, an installed device with motion sensor and timer. When a person enters the toilet, a sensor in the unit will detect movement and turn on the hood. When a person leaves the bathroom, the sensor will give a command to turn off, but the device will turn off only after the time set on the timer has expired.
Installing a unit such as a fan with a humidity sensor in the bathroom means accepting perfect solution in the fight against dampness in a given room. If the humidity in the room rises to the maximum set limits, the cooler will automatically start working. Once normal humidity levels are reached, the unit will stop. Thanks to this sensor, the bathroom will always be fresh and dry.
The following picture shows a diagram to help you install exhaust fan, equipped with sensors.
Under the decorative fan panel there are holes for attaching the case to a wall or ceiling. Therefore, you should attach the device to the hole in the vent (sometimes you have to expand the vent) and use a pencil to mark the places for drilling.
Next, in the places where you marked, you need to drill holes using a hammer drill or impact drill. For the latter it is mandatory to use drill bits with brazing for concrete. After drilling the holes, hammer plastic dowels into them, insert the cooler into the vent and secure it with self-tapping screws.
Attention! Before connecting the fan in the toilet or bathroom, do not forget to turn off the general switch for your apartment or the circuit breakers under the electric meter.
Now that the equipment is installed, you can connect the wires using the diagrams above.
There is another option with which you can install a fan in the toilet or bathroom without using power tools:
For clarity and better understanding of the material, you can watch the following video.
An exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet can also be installed on the ceiling (suspended or suspended).
Ceiling placement is often used in private homes, when the ventilation duct can be drawn through the ceiling and laid through the attic. In such cases, it is recommended to use duct fans, which are also located in the attic.
When stretch ceiling or suspended ceiling, the situation gets a little more complicated. It would be wiser if, before installing various types of ceilings, you prepare a place for installing equipment. The grate or cooler can be screwed to the drywall using a butterfly dowel. In the case of a suspended ceiling, the equipment is attached to a pre-installed stand.
If the suspended ceiling is already installed, then to install the cooler and carry out all communications it will have to be dismantled.
Of course, dismantle suspended ceiling– the task is quite difficult, and few people will do this to install a fan. There are 2 solutions:
In any case, when self-installation ventilation equipment, it is important to consistently carry out the above operations without haste, in compliance with safety rules and with great care, especially if the installation is carried out on a suspended ceiling.
The bathroom is characterized by high humidity. Steam condenses on the ceiling and walls, leading to the formation of fungus and mold. To prevent these processes, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the issues of arranging ventilation and selecting an exhaust fan. Do you agree?
We will tell you which bathroom hood will be the best solution for you. The article we have proposed describes the varieties in detail and provides guidelines for choosing the best option. Independent home craftsmen will find here step by step guide And good advice for installation.
Modern hoods intended for installation in the bathroom are divided into 2 types: simple and automatic. They differ from each other in design, presence additional options and cost. The hood must supply from 25 m 3 / h fresh air for a separate room, from 50 m 3 in the case of a combined bathroom.
The simple equipment is an electric fan, which is located in a tubular plastic housing. It can be of two types - built-in or free-standing.
Automatic exhaust devices are easier to operate and require minimal participation of the premises owner in the air exchange control process
A popular way to turn on the device is by pressing the switch that provides lighting in the bathroom. This option makes it possible to remove contaminated air from the bathroom when a person is in it.
Automatic equipment is equipped with electronics that effectively control the operation of the device.
In a short period of time, moisture does not have time to completely evaporate from the room, so it is better to install a separate switch
Hoods are equipped with additional functions:
The fan turns on when the permissible humidity value is exceeded. As soon as this parameter returns to normal, the device turns off.
Automatic models are convenient and easy-to-use devices that do not require the intervention of the apartment owner to control the operation of the ventilation system
Automatic products can be equipped with other functions. In private houses, the ventilation system communicates directly with the street, so their owners will not be harmed by a fan on the supply pipe with an adjustable diffuser.
The part that prevents air from moving in the opposite direction. This option is useful for residents of apartments in high-rise buildings to protect themselves from the odors of the neighbor’s bathroom.
Despite the simplicity of the design of the bathroom exhaust system, it functions perfectly and copes with its tasks
A modern hood designed for installation in a bathroom has a forced operating principle. The device consists of a fan and an air duct connected to the building's ventilation duct.
The axial exhaust fan has a relatively simple design, which does not affect the functionality of the device. In terms of performance properties, it can compete with air conditioners
To choose the optimal hood, you have to take into account the characteristics of the bathroom and the types of existing ventilation systems. Devices may differ in design, operating principle, power and the presence of additional functions.
To ensure air exchange in indoors natural or forced ventilation can be used. The first option does not require the use of special equipment that performs specific functions.
The second involves the use of fans, air heaters, engines, air cooling devices and other additional devices. You will be introduced to the principles of ventilation in sanitary and hygienic premises, which we strongly recommend reading.
Air flows enter the room, after which they are displaced due to different temperatures and pressures. You can create free circulation by opening the door slightly. But it will work ideally only if there is a stable flow of air from the street, which does not happen in hot weather.
In high-rise buildings, the ventilation shaft serves all apartments via a riser. The entrance to it is closed with a grill, and the effectiveness of cleaning depends on the general condition. In suburban buildings, ventilation ducts are installed during the construction stage.
When installing a natural hood, the following rules must be followed:
Natural ventilation is considered not very effective, since air flows cannot be controlled and their power cannot be influenced. However, it is often used in apartment buildings residential buildings and are often used in country buildings used for seasonal residence, for example, as a summer house.
More often, natural ventilation gives the required result due to the pressure difference between the window and the door. The tightness of the doors interferes with the operation of the ventilation duct
In the bathroom of buildings equipped with sealed windows and door structures, mechanical evacuation of exhaust air using mechanical devices is used. This could be an invoice or duct fan. It turns on when necessary and creates traction.
In private buildings, ducts are often installed that remove waste air flow through the attic of the house. The fan is designed for contaminated air, and fresh air can enter the bathroom through the open door.
Compact forced ventilation takes up minimal space in the room, but is sufficient for effective ventilation of the bathroom
There are 2 types of equipment used in bathrooms, toilets and combined toilets. These are axial and radial exhaust devices. The latter are also called centrifugal.
The axial devices are a shaft on which a classic impeller is mounted. Its blades are made at an angle. When the shaft rotates, the air flow is drawn in. Such a fan is used if the pressure created with its help is sufficient to ensure normal air exchange.
Buying a household axial fan – rational decision for owners of apartments and private houses. It allows you to create a comfortable environment in the room by investing a minimum of money.
With radial devices, the air flow is drawn into the center, after which it ends up in a casing with blades. Due to their location in the central part, a vacuum is observed, and the centrifugal force pushes air masses to the edges of the housing, which are discharged through the outlet pipe into the ventilation duct.
The most in demand are overhead models - they work much more efficiently and quieter, and are capable of evacuating volumes that axial models cannot do. Based on the level of equipment, fans of the centrifugal operating principle are divided into basic and with additional options . The latter can work automatically.
Automatic centrifugal products are additionally equipped with a timer and sensors. They allow the owner of the premises to control the operation of the equipment
The specifics of the bathroom prompted developers to produce devices adapted to rooms with high humidity. The housing of an electrically powered fan must be sealed. The internal structure of the equipment is reliably protected on all sides from exposure to wet steam.
For consumers, the International Electrotechnical Commission has developed a certain reliability standard electronic devices. It is designated IP and consists of two numbers.
The first value can be from 0 to 6 and indicates the degree of protection from the penetration of impurities. The second digit determines level of protection against moisture. To use the product in the bathroom the indicator should be at least 4.
Each product must have a certificate that determines its level of safety. For the bathroom it is better to choose a device whose IP is greater than 34
Power and performance are closely related. The higher the first indicator, the greater the second will be. You can find out the performance indicator by multiplying the square footage of the bathroom by the number of people living in the house.
If the fan is equipped with many additional functions, its power can be a maximum of 10% higher than the calculated one. The most popular are economical and virtually silent devices that consume from 7 to 20 W.
When operating devices with a high power rating, there is a draft in the room, and it will not be able to warm up sufficiently.
Another one important characteristic- the noise level created by the blades of the device during operation. It is much quieter than during operation kitchen hood. The standard acceptable for an exhaust device is considered to be a sound of 30 dB and below. This is explained by the fact that a person perceives all sounds above 35 dB as unpleasant and intrusive.
Standard bathroom ventilation units are mechanically controlled or operate in a slow, constant mode. A timer is an additional device that allows you to half automate the process.
After the person has left the bathroom, thanks to the timer, the exhaust air continues to be evacuated for some time. Once completed, it turns itself off.
You will find guidance on installing and connecting the exhaust device to a standard switch in, which covers these difficult issues in detail.
Smoky air, steam fumes and the smell of food being prepared in the kitchen are not conducive to a normal microclimate in an apartment or house. To solve this problem, it is recommended to install hoods in the bathroom and kitchen
The presence of a humidity sensor is best option For bathroom. A hygrometer is considered the best control method, as it allows you to set a humidity threshold from 40 to 100%, upon reaching which the fan automatically turns on. A humidistat and a timer are not often used together. Typically, if there is a humidity sensor, a timer is not required.
When installing the equipment, you need to measure the hole in the bathroom or toilet, which will allow you to determine the diameter of the air duct. Standard landing size hoods from 100 to 130 mm. If necessary, the hole in the bathroom wall can be enlarged using a hammer drill.
The best option for ensuring normal air exchange and a comfortable indoor climate is to select a ventilation device of the required size
A check valve is a small and simple device that will not unpleasant odors from neighbors to enter the territory of your apartment. It is practically indispensable in city baths and toilets connected to a common ventilation duct.
When installing a ventilation system in the bathroom, you will need to choose an exhaust device. First of all, you need to determine its capabilities, which consist in the ability to move a specific volume of air. This indicator depends on the diameter of the device.
Manufacturers offer devices with pipe cross-sections of 80, 100, 120, 150 mm. For Khrushchev, the optimal diameter will be 80 mm or 100 mm. In new buildings, apartments have an improved layout; here it is better to choose a section of 120 mm.
No less important factor- appearance. Many manufacturers produce hoods with a replaceable outer panel. Fans from Elicent, Electrolux, Ballu, Timberk and other brands come in a variety of colors and shades.
The advantages of hood models with a removable panel are ease of maintenance of the device and the ability to bring bold design ideas to life
An attractive and stylish device can be made an accent element of the interior or fit in so that it does not catch the eye. When choosing, it is necessary to take into account that water should not come into contact with electricity - the fan will have to work in conditions of high humidity.
To avoid troubles with wiring, experts recommend using a product designed for long-term use in such rooms.
It would be useful to check the noise indicators of the device - unnecessary and unpleasant sounds play the role of a hearing irritant. When a high-quality bathroom fan is running, it is almost silent.
When you turn on the silent exhaust device, you can hear a little air movement that occurs in the pipe of the device body
It is also worth paying attention to the strength and reliability of the device. A small number of companies specializing in the production of bathroom fans can guarantee that their products will work for several years. ABOUT high quality indicates the warranty period from the manufacturer. If it is less than 1 year old, it is better not to buy this device.
Before installation, a series of preparatory work. First of all, you need to check how normally the ventilation duct is functioning by bringing a lit match or candle to the inlet. The flame should angle toward the grate.
If a lit flame indicates that the ventilation duct is clogged, you must urgently take action and clean the device before installing the hood
If the diameter of the ventilation duct hole is larger than the cross section of the fan, then you can insert plastic or the required diameter and seal the voids polyurethane foam, cutting off its excess with a sharp knife after the solution has set.
If the hole at the entrance to the shaft has a smaller diameter, it is expanded using a hammer drill.
Before installing any model of exhaust fan in the bathroom, you need to decide how it will be connected to the power source.
Today there are different ways hood connections:
The latter method of connecting the device is less popular, since apartment residents often go into the bathroom for a short time to quickly wash their hands, brush their teeth or wash their face. In these cases, the switched on hood will waste electricity.
The connection diagram for ventilation to a light switch is used quite rarely, since for most people a running fan prevents them from relaxing and taking a bath
It is better to lay the wiring under the tiles. If this is not possible, then you can disguise the cable using special plastic boxes.
Before connecting the fan in the bathroom, you should study the instructions, which describe detailed process installation In accordance with the recommendations, the selected model of hood is installed in the bathroom or bathroom.
Actions are performed in a certain sequence:
When connecting to the power supply, there should be no exposed wires in the room without insulation. They are placed in recessed ventilation ducts using a corrugated casing.
When connecting the hood to the power supply, safety precautions must be observed. First of all, you need to make sure that the electricity in the room is turned off. To connect wires, they do not use twists, but more reliable terminal blocks
Many users connect fans via a contact pair to a light switch. The switch is installed in phase.
For convenience when using the device in the future, you can install a separate button to turn on the hood. If when visiting the bathroom there is no need to operate it, then it is convenient to use only the lighting control key. then the time spent in the room will not be overshadowed by the hum of the rotating blades.
Video #1. How to choose equipment and organize everything correctly:
Video #2. Why do you need a bathroom hood and how to install it:
The hood allows you to get rid of high humidity in the bathroom and eliminate odors penetrating into the room. This is a popular and inexpensive equipment that is easy to install. Popular fan models are produced by Ballu, Timberk, Elicent, Electrolux and others.
Despite the fact that installation work will not take much effort, money and time, the device will become an indispensable assistant in the fight for fresh air and comfortable microclimate.
Tell us about how you improved ventilation in the bathroom by installing a hood. Share the subtleties of doing work that are useful for site visitors. Ask questions, post photos, comment on the material we present in the block located under the text of the article.
If in the bathroom (or combined bathroom) on the walls, along the bottom of the floor or on the ceiling there are dark spots mold, which means that the natural ventilation of the room does not provide a quick and high-quality change of air. That is, there is no replacement of moisture-saturated air with dry air entering the bathroom from the corridor or other rooms.
As a way out of this situation, we can suggest installing a forced exhaust - an electric fan, which you will turn on as needed. Since the fan has separate blades, the entire space of the ventilation duct will never be closed. Therefore, even when the fan is turned off, the process of natural ventilation of the room will continue in the bathroom.
What can cause poor ventilation in the bathroom?
It is very easy to check the effectiveness of natural ventilation in the bathroom. When the air temperature outside is 10-15 degrees below room temperature, take a piece of paper (from a school notebook or a pack of copier paper) and attach it to ventilation grille, having first opened the window in the room closest to the bathtub and the door to the bathroom. If the leaf “sticks” to the grille, then natural ventilation is working properly. Otherwise, it is better to install an exhaust fan and provide forced ventilation.
Selecting a hood should begin by measuring the opening of the ventilation duct. The next step is to determine the volume of the bathroom (multiply the length, width and height), in cubic meters.
Do not forget that exhaust fans are available in different capacities (power). You can calculate the power you need in the following way:
Determine the air exchange rate in your bathroom in one hour: it is equal to 6 if less than three people use this room; and 8 if the bathroom is used daily by more than three people.
Multiply the room volume (in cubic meters) by the selected air exchange rate (you will get the result in m3/hour).
After these simple steps, you can go to the store and choose an exhaust fan, the power of which must necessarily be greater than the value you obtained, since making an exhaust hood in the bathroom with a lower capacity is not advisable either from a practical or financial point of view.
In addition, it is desirable that the bathroom fan have:
When choosing an exhaust fan, be sure to pay attention to the size of its part that is inserted into the hole in the ventilation duct. It should be slightly smaller (5-7 millimeters) than the actual size of the hole in the wall, since a significant reduction in the channel area will disrupt the natural ventilation of the room when the fan is turned off.
Now let's talk about how to install a hood in the bathroom:
If you purchased a simple fan (without a timer or other additional options), then it can be connected to power through the bathroom light. In this case, the fan will turn on and off along with the room lighting.
We bring to your attention instructions for installing a fan in the bathroom.
