We are all often concerned with the question of improving our little world, our “personal country”, within the borders own plot, and specifically, how to dig a pond on your property correctly.
A decorative pond can be made using a film coating or in a ready-made plastic form.
We are all eager to intervene in the natural landscape created by nature itself. To become like God and through a master’s, volitional decision to change what was created initially, from the day the world was created.
It is commendable that a person is able to change and subjugate the landscape of his site, make it convenient for comfortable living and create an environment that would be pleasing to the eye and at least not worsen the health of those who are on it.
From time immemorial, a person’s presence near an open body of water, even the smallest one, has had a beneficial effect on his general well-being and condition.
To build a semi-artificial pond, you only need to dig a pit, and it can be filled with water yourself.
Water itself is life. There is no need to talk about the peace of mind and emotional state of a person who is near a body of water; just remember the minutes spent fishing or swimming on a hot day. Even just contemplating an open surface of water, and even a beautifully designed one, is already free psychotherapy.
So the desire to have your own personal pond on your property for fishing, recreation and for decorative purposes is commendable, but for this you need to take into account many factors and know modern capabilities to implement this idea. We will tell you how to dig a pond at your dacha correctly, and even with your own hands.
Preparatory work for creating a pond
First of all, you should:
Several horizontal terraces 30-40 cm wide should be left in the pit.
- decide what you want when planning to dig a pond on your site, decide on its size, configuration and location, since the dimensions can be in terms of water surface area from 0.50 m2 to any size available to you, limited by your imagination, the means for its implementation, the feasibility and boundaries of your site, since the pond should not extend beyond personal property;
- indicate the functions that this water body will perform. It will be like a type of improvement, decorative design dachas, or implies the use of a pond for swimming, fishing, economic purposes and needs. Its uses are varied: from fish farming to using a pond for raising waterfowl. Or you can simply use it as a reservoir for storing water, a fire pond;
- determine or identify the presence of a natural flow of water into your pond from underground sources, the presence of a key or outlet from a small river, although such “replenishment” should only be in the direction of the flow of water into your pond. Water from your pond should not flow into public streams in the area. To include a pond in the general water system, you need to obtain permits and comply with strict legal conditions and sanitary standards;
- In the absence of natural, “natural” replenishment of water, consider the types of artificial replenishment, renewal and measures aimed at preventing the pond from turning into a swamp. A separately drilled well can help with this. well, etc.
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What you need to know to create large ponds
To do this you need:
- V the best option– flowing close to a section of a stream or small river, which can be used as a source of replenishing the pond with “fresh” soda. It is advisable to do a water analysis so as not to “collect” water in your pond that is not suitable for human use for any purpose. A stream may flow from some kind of septic tank, carrying all the dirt from agricultural fields, landfills, etc.;
- familiarize yourself with land and water legislation, according to which your pond located on your land should not come into contact with water resources, located in Federal property (rivers and lakes), it must be a separate object. Should not exceed a depth of 5 m;
- explore your site, identifying its relief. It can be either flat or sloped, with natural, natural depressions that can be used to create a water feature. It is advisable, when the snow melts in the spring, to see where the streams flow and where the water lasts the longest on your site. Reveal natural ways spring “migration” of melting snow. You can also see in the summer, after the rains, where the flow of rainwater is directed;
- determine by drilling as a possible source of filling the dug pond with water. Close location groundwater will make it much easier to create a water body with your own hands by filling it from natural underground sources and will make further operation of the pond as a whole less expensive;
- know the type and composition of your soil at the entire depth of digging your pond, your reservoir. Soil, as is known, can lie in layers and alternate: layers that allow moisture to pass through well, and layers. detaining her.
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What you need to know to dig small decorative ponds
In order to build a pond from old bath It is enough to dig it into the ground, covering it with stones.
We dig out large objects using modern materials and technologies, they are entirely of artificial, man-made origin, implying human participation both at the initial stage of digging a pond bed, and during further care after the pond: cleaning, changing water, aeration, decorating with plants and stones.
For small ones decorative ponds you only need your desire, imagination, aesthetic sense and sense of understanding of beauty.
Decorative shallow ponds on your site with a depth of 0.3 to 1.5 m and a water surface area of 1 m2 to 10 m2 of various shapes can be designed and implemented in any place on your site you desire.
Such decorative ponds can have either a flat, even bottom or a bottom sloping from opposite sides towards the middle, in which most of the silt settles. During further operation, such a bottom surface will make it easier, without even pumping out or completely draining the water, from the silt that inevitably forms at the bottom. For these purposes, a pit dug in the center of the pond, a depression where all the dirt will directly accumulate, can also be suitable.
There are ponds with terraced, stepwise changes in bottom depth. With a shallow step 30-40 cm deep, a middle step 60-80 cm and the bottom of the reservoir itself from 1 to 1.5 m, which is enough even for wintering fish placed in the reservoir.
You need to know that there are both vertical and “bank” walls beveled at any angle, which can be designed in a unique way at your discretion and desire.
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We dig a pond on the site and fix the landscape “to suit ourselves”
The bottom of an artificial reservoir is usually covered with a special insulating layer and then with a film.
Having drawn up a detailed site plan and taking into account all the features of your site, your capabilities and desires, you need to mark out the future pond, transferring its size and shape to the area using pegs and a cord.
Consider organizational and technical issues regarding the passage of an excavator if you are going to build big pond. In addition, it is necessary to remove the excavated soil from the pit outside the site or distribute it over it. It will be problematic for you to carry out quite a large volume of excavation work with your own hands using a shovel, even if you invite numerous relatives.
You can dig a smaller pond for decorative purposes with your own hands, after practicing with a good sharp shovel. Typically, such ponds are built after all the main tasks of building a house, laying out a garden and a vegetable garden have been completed, and large ponds, as a rule, are built on an area that has not yet been formed, which is associated with the operation of equipment.
The selected soil from the pit may be useful for correcting the unevenness of the site, creating alpine slide with subsequent planting of plants on it, filling of protective ramparts around the perimeter of the site and for other needs. The fertile layer is approximately 30 cm - for building up the humus layer in the garden and garden.
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Forming a waterproof bottom in large ponds
After completing the excavation work and resolving the issue with the excavated soil, you need to begin the final formation of the bottom and shoreline, the perimeter of your reservoir. On clayey, heavy soils it is necessary:
- It is good to compact the exposed layer of clay bottom by adding crushed stone and pressing it into the top layer of clay. On other soils, it is better to form such a layer from brought clay. A compacted layer of 25-30 cm of clay and crushed stone will serve as a water seal for your pond.
- Add a layer river sand 5-10 cm and thoroughly level and compact the surface;
- Lay with an overlap of at least 50 cm:
- polyethylene film, PVC film 0.5-1 mm thick;
- geotextiles;
- rubber film;
- special PVD film for reservoirs with a thickness of 0.5 and 1 mm.
The feasibility of pouring river sand under the film is obvious; it allows you to cover the sharp edges of the crushed stone and place the film on flat surface without covering the pebbles underneath with a film, therefore, due to the pressure of the entire huge mass of water, a hole may form in these places.
When forming banks with a slope of 25-30 degrees without the formation of retaining coastal shore fortifications and their decorative design, for example, with stone, all work on them should be carried out in the same way as on the section of the bottom continuation. The film material should be raised to the entire height of the future filling of the pond with water.
A layer of sand at least 7-10 cm thick is poured onto the film, then crushed stone again fine fraction layer 8 0 cm. These two layers serve to protect the film from mechanical damage.
If your pond will be used as a place of recreation, i.e., will be intended for swimming, then it is more advisable to replace the crushed stone with small river or sea pebbles, and fill the entrance points to the reservoir, along with the flat section of the shore used as a beach, with river sand.
With such a properly arranged bottom of the reservoir, the pond can be used intensively. You can swim in it, catch fish thrown into it, without fear of damaging the film that blocks the filtration of water into the lower layers of the earth, and reducing its level. In this case, only natural evaporation of water into the atmosphere will remain, which, as a rule, is replenished by rainfall.
A pond is a body of water that is created artificially and used for breeding freshwater fish. It’s every fisherman’s dream to have such a lake, where you can not only fish there, but also be able to swim with your family and friends. There are many options for creating ponds with your own hands. Let's find out specifically how to dig a pond.
There are four types of reservoirs for fish breeding: feeding, spawning, wintering, and nursery. By type of bottom - artificial, natural. Ponds with a natural bottom are easier to dig; the main thing is to choose a location and strengthen the slopes and banks., taking water from the river. Then the plants are planted. Only after a month are the fish fry released. If the depth of the reservoir is a meter, then it will not be easy for the fish to winter in it; it is better to move it to home aquariums. It is very important for the inhabitants of the reservoir How pleasant it is to spend a few hours by a shady pond or lake in the hot summer! Of course, it's great if there is one in the neighborhood. However, most often we spend our free summer days at the dacha, and not everyone has the funds for a large Vacation home and services
It all depends on your imagination, the size of the area and what you have on hand. If you put in a little effort and money, your dacha pond will not only delight you, but also cause the burning envy of your neighbors.
The size and shape of yours primarily depend on the area of the plot allocated for these purposes. But what larger area pond, the easier it is to care for - a small one needs to be cleaned more often. If you plan to have fish and plant a lot of aquatic plants, then a small pond will not suit you either, because it is very difficult to maintain the correct eco-balance in it.
The most best place for a home pond there will be an open part of the site, at the same time protected from strong winds. You should not place the pond in a well-lit place: the location should be such that the sun's rays do not fall into the water for more than 6 hours in a row, otherwise it will bloom and only frogs will be able to live there. A dubious prospect, right? At the same time, if the lighting is insufficient, the plants will develop slowly, and you won’t get a beautiful place to relax.
If you decide to arrange small fountain, you will definitely need a pond diagram to properly connect the pump and other equipment. With a little effort, you can draw up a plan yourself. Of course, you will also need to consider the proximity of the power supply network.
You should not locate your home pond under the canopy of trees. Firstly, this will lead to additional contamination of the water with fallen leaves, and the pond will have to be cleaned much more often, and secondly, the roots of the tree can damage the bed of the tank, and it will quickly dry out.
And, of course, the whole idea will become useless if you cannot enjoy beautiful view from a window or from a terrace, so when planning to make a pond on your property with your own hands, do not forget about the aesthetic side of the issue.
If you are a supporter of thorough, durable construction, then you can approach the process on a grand scale: dig a pit of sufficient size and, using metal reinforcement and cement, cast a reinforced concrete bowl for the pond. Such a design will certainly cost a lot, but it will last for many years (at least 30). If you are not a follower of the global approach, you can get by with a simpler and cheaper option.
So, how to do it One of the most basic ways to make your dream come true is a ready-made “bowl”, which can be purchased in a store. Perhaps the main disadvantage of this option is that you will not be able to come up with your own original shape for the reservoir; you will have to be content with the offered assortment.
The most inexpensive solution is a small plastic pond, from 4 to 8 m2. Of course, there are larger molds, but they already belong to the category of pools and are much more expensive. When choosing a container, you should definitely pay attention to its depth - it should be at least 0.8-1 meters. In summer, the water in such a pond will warm up completely, and all its inhabitants will be comfortable, but in winter, such a pond will not freeze to the bottom, which is also very important.
If you decide to organize a pond on your site with your own hands and want to use a ready-made base for this, then first of all you need to study the materials from which the forms are made - there are also several nuances here.
The simplest and cheapest option may be a regular plastic container, but it has its drawbacks. First of all, you need to be very careful when transporting and installing - such a tank can crack even with slight bending. Plastic also tends to break down from sunlight, which means that the service life of such a product is not too long - 5-10 years.
If you want your pond to last longer, choose forms made of special reinforced plastic - they have a much longer service life (up to 20 years). Such tanks are more flexible and less susceptible to ultraviolet radiation.
The highest quality and, of course, most expensive are products made from fiberglass on a rubber base. This form is resistant to temperature changes and does not collapse from exposure. sun rays and does not release harmful substances into the water, which is very important for the inhabitants of the reservoir. Such a tank will last more than 30 years, in addition, it can be repaired, which extends the time of use for an almost unlimited period.
The construction of ponds from a fiberglass bath is a simple process, and the result is quite aesthetic, since these forms come in different colors, and some are even coated with a coating that imitates stones, sand or small pebbles. This allows you to beautifully disguise the edges of the pond and give it the most natural look.
So, in order to build a pond on the site with your own hands, first of all you need to decide on the location and shape of the reservoir. Have you decided? Let's start construction work:
During the week after installation, regularly water the soil around the pond and add sand as needed. After the soil subsidence stops, you can completely fill the reservoir, decorate the edges of the pond bowl with stones, flagstone and plant ornamental plants.
Now let's talk about how to make a pond on your site if it is not possible to purchase a ready-made container or you want to arrange a large pond of a bizarre shape.
The most budget option in this case, the use of ordinary polyethylene with a thickness of at least 500 microns will be used. However, despite the fact that it is quite inexpensive, this coating has quite a few disadvantages. The fact is that polyethylene is enough thin material, it is very easy to damage, and under the influence of sunlight it becomes brittle and quickly collapses. A pond on a polyethylene backing will last you a maximum of 2-3 years.
PVC film for a pond - the material is also not too expensive, but much more durable; such a coating can withstand 8-10 years. Polyvinyl chloride coating can be regular or two-layer, in which a woven mesh is laid for strength. Of course, PVC has the same disadvantages as polyethylene - it is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, it is easily cut and torn, but, unlike the latter, it can be repaired. Special kits are sold for this. In addition, PVC has better stretch, and after filling the pond with water, most folds will stretch and straighten over time.
The most expensive, but at the same time the highest quality coating is made from butyl rubber: the service life of such material is about 50 years, and it does not mind the sun's rays. In addition, butyl rubber is resistant to low temperatures, so you don't have to drain the pond water into winter time. This is a very flexible and plastic material that can withstand significant loads, so if you decide to equip a spacious pond unusual shape, you simply cannot do without it.
To build a pond on your site with your own hands, you will need:
Using string and pegs, you need to mark the desired shape of the pit and begin excavation work. If you plan to create a fairly large pond, you can use an excavator. During the work, it is necessary to ensure that ledges and slopes alternate, this will make the banks of the pond more stable. It is also necessary to provide terraces (at least 30 cm wide) for planting. Descents from one level to another must be made fairly flat, with an inclination angle of up to 45˚.
It is worth remembering that the depth of the pond should not be less than 80 cm, otherwise in winter the water in it will freeze to the bottom and its inhabitants will die. Thus, you need to dig a pit approximately 15-20 centimeters larger than the expected size of the reservoir. This is necessary in order to be able to fill the terraces and the bottom of the pond with sand, in order to avoid subsidence and damage to the film. The sand cushion must be carefully leveled and compacted, after removing all pebbles, sharp sticks and plant roots from the bottom.
When the sand drainage pad is ready, we move on to the next stage of work. In order for the pond film to remain intact for as long as possible, you need to lay geotextiles on a layer of sand, preferably in 2 layers. Next, we straighten the film itself and secure it to the banks with bricks or large stones. Don’t try to necessarily straighten and spread out all the folds - let the water do it for you.
We place the flexible one so that its end is in the center of the future reservoir, and we begin to supply water, making sure that the pressure is not too strong. As the pond fills with water, partially release the edges of the film and spread it along the slopes of the pit. After the reservoir is filled to the brim, leave it for 1-2 days. During this time, under the weight of water, the film will expand and fill all the voids.
After it has completely subsided, you need to cut off the excess parts, leaving at least 40-50 cm for arranging the banks. The edges are secured with pegs or special metal arches, and then masked with flagstone, large stones and pebbles. It's time to install the pump, decorate the hoses from the fountains and start planting plants.
When there are kids in the family, one of the main problems when building a pond is how to make the pond safe. It is best if such a reservoir is slightly raised above the soil surface. Firstly, this makes caring for it much easier, and secondly, the risk of small children or pets accidentally falling into it is significantly reduced.
In this case, you cannot do without a reinforced concrete foundation. Dig a pit for the pond in its deepest part, form terraces for plants, just as in the previous case. Along the banks of the reservoir using wooden formwork fill in concrete foundation required height, for strength it can be reinforced metal mesh. After the foundation has completely dried and settled (this will take at least two days), the formwork can be removed and the inner walls can be plastered until smooth. This will help prevent the film from tearing. We line the bottom of the pit with it and fill the bowl with water. In this case, we secure the edges of the material so that they are behind the concrete fence. After the pond is filled, let the water settle, cut off the excess film, secure it and decorate the edges of the bowl.
Of course, building ponds is not an easy task, but what can you do for your loved one, because if everything is organized correctly, the result will please the eye for many years.
However, it is not enough to build a home pond - you also need to take care of it. Here are some technical devices that will be very useful to you:
A pond in the garden is, of course, very beautiful, but if you do not want to become the happy owner of a personal swamp in which frogs croak in the evenings, then you need to properly care for it. First of all, you need to make sure that the water in it does not bloom. Of course, it is best to purchase a special cleansing system, but, unfortunately, this is not a cheap pleasure. However, there is something else, more accessible remedy: take a canvas bag and fill it. Place this “surprise” under water, and there will be practically no algae left at the bottom of the pond.
It is also necessary to carefully monitor the cleanliness of the reservoir - regularly remove debris from the surface and add water as it evaporates. If your pond is small, then winter period It is recommended to completely drain it, and for large tanks, complete cleaning is necessary at least 2-3 times a year, and the water must be completely pumped out.
But what should those whose plot size does not allow them to place even a small pond? Don't be upset: small pond You can also arrange it in the front garden by using a cut-off metal barrel or just a large basin for these purposes. Such a mini-pond can even be placed on the balcony of a city apartment by decorating the container with glued pebbles or mosaics. Of course, you won’t hear the gurgling of a fountain near such a “reservoir,” but you are guaranteed coolness and lush greenery of aquatic plants.
A pond with fish in a garden or summer cottage has long ceased to be a curiosity. Instructions for creating it and necessary materials are now quite accessible. This detail is good not only for its ability to grow fish, but also for its aesthetic properties that are pleasing to the eye.
You have free place on the site, desire and time? Then you can get down to business, taking into account the recommendations and step-by-step techniques.
You need to select the area where the miniature pond will be located not only taking into account your own preferences. Here are the basic principles for choosing a location for a pond:
Reservoir for fish breeding on the site - photo
There are several variations of ponds for fish in the garden or summer cottage:
A dug pond for fish on a summer cottage - photo
Don't forget to choose the right parameters. The optimal depth is no more than two meters, but not less than half. Choose the area based on the number of fish and the size of your own area.
To make a pond with a concrete bottom you need:
A pond without lining is much easier to make. Here is a list of required materials:
Have you purchased a plastic frame? The technology for its use is simple:
For making a pond with film detailed instructions need not. Dig a hole and holes for the tubes, stretch the film, reinforce it at the top with sharp pegs or bricks, make holes in it for the tubes and insert them.
The main condition in this case is the presence of oxygen in the water. Without it, the inhabitants of the reservoir will die. The presence of oxygen is negatively affected by any decay, so promptly remove leaves, grass, etc. from the water.
Oxygen is emitted by aquatic plants. You can plant water lilies, water chestnut, water hyacinth and other similar flora. It is advisable to purchase them in specialized stores, since plants brought from a natural reservoir can die in new ones. artificial conditions. All this must be done before launching the fish.
If you are determined to populate your pond with plants, take note of the table. It indicates the types of flora representatives and methods of their placement.
If the acidity level of the water is inappropriate, the fish will die. The optimal level is neutral.
An important condition is the presence of useful elements in the water. Iron, potassium salts, phosphorus, nitrogen compounds - all of these need to saturate the reservoir. It is recommended to purchase special supplements sold in specialized stores.
Water temperature - important factor. Before starting the fish, it should be warmed up to about twenty-four degrees.
After the water has been poured in, you should wait for the formation of a sludge layer. This usually takes thirty days. When it appears, it is recommended to change the water without cleaning the sludge from the walls and bottom.
The new water should sit for a bit. After this, you can let the fish into their new home. There is no need to launch all acquired individuals at once. Start with four or five fish and then gradually continue to introduce the remaining ones.
Don't skimp on fish - it's very important rule. Representatives of fauna from natural bodies of water may be infected. It is worth noting that purchased sick fish must be caught.
First you need to set your priorities. Do you care about aesthetics or about the food product? If you prefer the first option, consider some ornamental fish:
Looking for edible and unpretentious fish? Pay attention to the crucian carp. Even if your pond is no different large sizes, fifteen individuals will definitely feel comfortable there. It does not need certain temperatures, as well as a high concentration of oxygen and many useful substances.
Crucian carp is not demanding in terms of nutrition. He is able to survive on any fish food. He doesn't even disdain pieces of bread.
If you do not have the opportunity to acquire an aeration device, think about breeding tench. He is able to feel great even in an environment unsaturated with oxygen. Tench quickly gains good mass, especially if the reservoir is large in area. Width and height matter here.
The only difficulty that can arise when breeding this representative of the fauna is its heat-loving nature. The water temperature in a home pond should not drop even to twenty-three degrees.
Carp is a fast-growing good conditions fish. It does not require depth, but there should not be more than two fish per half square meter. TO cold water carp treats badly. If her temperature drops to ten, he will simply stop eating.
Carp can develop a reflex if you place food in the same place. He prefers legumes, grains, and regular feed.
Carp is an excellent fish for breeding in a home pond.
Pike perch grows quickly, as the body length of young fish usually reaches thirty centimeters. It's worth taking his appetite into account. To grow an individual to medium size you will need at least two hundred small fish.
If you are worried that the fish may remain hungry due to the small amount of free time you have, you can get perch. They are unpretentious and not too gluttonous. It is enough to feed them well during the day.
Pike perch is an interesting fish for breeding
Ruffs and gobies have a similar advantage. They can be left without feeding for a long time, especially if there are plants in the pond.
This question interests those who want to raise fish not just to admire them. A pond on your own property can bring profit from the sale of decorative and river fish. There are several basic principles for their successful breeding:
Having chosen a place for the pond, determine what shape it will be. To do this, you will need rope and pins to secure the rope lined outline to the ground.
When using soft lining, the contour of the pond should have smooth corners and rounded outlines. Ponds with sharp corners create dead zones where debris accumulates. Step away from the rope outline and look at it from different angles to get an idea of what it will look like.
Sod removed from the area where the pond will be dug can be used to restore lawns. The removed squares of turf should be pressed firmly to the ground and watered frequently until the turf takes root.
Along the contour of the pond lined with rope, drive pegs into the ground at a distance of 60 cm from one another. Now you can begin to excavate the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm inside the space marked with pegs. Preliminarily determine a place on the site where you can put the selected soil on a spread tarpaulin, but do not leave it there for more than a day, otherwise the grass under the tarpaulin may die.
The walls of the reservoir should be flat, approximately 20° from the vertical. But if you want shallow-water animals to live in the pond, then you can make them even flatter (60° from the vertical).
Approximately 60 cm from the edges, mark the outline deep part of the pond inside the partially dug hole and start digging, but don't forget to create a ledge on which you can place pots of aquatic plants, put stones and place seaweed. It is very important that the ledge is smooth and horizontal. Use a spirit level: place it on a horizontal surface inside the pit and in in the right places add or select soil. The ledge can be made around the entire perimeter of the reservoir or in one or two places.
If your garden pond is shallow, then you can do without a ledge by placing pots with aquatic plants directly on the bottom.
Finally, you can begin to excavate soil in the central part of the reservoir. At this point, the hole should be 5 cm deeper than the intended final depth. For zones with temperate and cool climates, it is recommended to make ponds at least 60 cm deep if you do not want the water in it to freeze to the bottom in winter.
The finished pit must be lined with a layer (5 cm) of soft sand, old blankets, newspapers or other soft material, which will protect the cladding from sharp stones and roots. Only after this, carefully lay the bottom and walls of the hole with the purchased lining, starting from the middle, and press the material extending beyond the edges to the surface of the earth around the hole.
It's time to fill the pond with water. The easiest way to do this is to use a garden hose. Direct the stream of water so that it falls into the pond from above. This will enrich the water with oxygen and activate the process of freeing it from chlorine, if the water is tap water. When the water covers the bottom, pull the trim up by the edges to remove any wrinkles. As the pond fills, the weight of the water will press the lining against the walls of the pit.
Regardless of the type of cladding, special attention will be required to the edge of the reservoir, where the top of the cladding material extends to the surface of the ground. A clean, level bank, gently sloping down to the pond, will protect the pond from dirt and stones. It is good to use tree bark, gravel and turf to frame the pond. Many people like to line the area around the pond with flat stones, securing them mortar. Some people use large boulders to frame the pond, which press the facing material to the surface of the earth.
Pond at the dacha Photo 1: It’s always nice to relax in such a shady and cool corner near a pond you dug with your own hands.
Pond plants help purify water, provide food for fish and serve as shelter for other living creatures, including beneficial insects. The easiest way is to place pots of aquatic plants on ledges or at the bottom of a pond, placing bricks under them. Potted plants are easier to care for, especially if you have to take them out of the water to plant them.
There are four main types of pond plants: submersible, water lilies, coastal and floating.
Underwater plants are the workhorses of the pond. Among them are water plague (Elodea canadensis), urut (Myriophyllum) and vallisperia. Receiving nutrition from the water through small, constantly swaying leaves, they absorb excess nutrients contained in it and thereby doom the algae to extinction. Thanks to underwater plants, the pond always looks beautiful and clean.
Since underwater plants do not consume nutrition from the soil, they are planted in pots with coarse sand, and the sand is sprinkled with pebbles on top so that fish do not burrow into it and cloud the water. Pots with underwater plants are placed in the pond at a depth of 15 to 75 cm from the surface of the water. The recommended standard to ensure water transparency in a pond is 10-12 bunches of plants per 1 sq.m of pond surface.
It is impossible to imagine a pond without water lilies. In addition to the fact that these plants decorate the pond, they also bring practical benefits. Their large leaves floating on the surface of the water, protect the reservoir from the penetration of sunlight and prevent the growth of algae. Water lilies grow well in artificial reservoirs; for this, pots with plants are placed in water so that the root collar (i.e., the place where the stem connects to the tuber) is at a depth of 15-30 cm from the surface of the water.
Tropical water lilies survive only in climate zones where there is no frost. Winter-hardy lilies can winter in a pond in northern latitudes, provided that the water in the reservoir does not freeze completely, and for this its depth must exceed 60 cm.
After the first severe frost It is recommended to cut off the leaves of a winter-hardy water lily and move the pot to the deepest place in the pond.
If your garden is in a cold climate zone or your pond is shallower than 60 cm, it is recommended to remove lilies from the water late autumn, cut off the leaves from them, and place the pots with the rest in black plastic bags and store them indoors during the winter at a temperature of about 10 ° C (this can be a garage, veranda or unheated room in a residential building). During storage, care must be taken to ensure that the plants do not dry out.
Chromatella- a winter-hardy water lily with many canary-yellow flowers and leaves in green and reddish shades.
Dauben– tropical type of water line with graceful pale blue flowers. It grows well in small ponds everywhere, but in cool climates it must be removed from the pond in the winter and kept indoors.
Coastal marsh or border plants love and grow well in slightly flooded areas near the shore of a body of water: pond, stream. They need moist soil, but they do not tolerate as deep flooding as water lilies: “They prefer their feet to be in water and their knees to be dry,” experts say.
These types of plants feel good on ledges at the water's edge, and various types required different depths. You need to start growing them in the shallowest areas of the reservoir, and only later move them to deeper places. Most coastal plants are grown primarily for their leaves. The exceptions are rushes, which bloom with blue flowers, and water cannas, related to those tall beauties that thrive in flower beds with well-drained soil.
But tall, spiked plants, such as reeds and reed calamus, look especially attractive in the coastal part of the reservoir. Next to tall calamus, low-growing plants, such as water mint, look beautiful.
Calamus(Acorus calamus), a tall plant with stiff, iris-like leaves, and American iris (Iris versicolor), a shallow-water plant with violet-blue flowers, may freeze completely in a pond but will grow again in spring.
Purchased floating plants can be brought home in a plastic bag of water, like a goldfish. They are not planted in pots, but simply lowered into a pond. The leaves of these plants shade the water, and the free-hanging roots suck nutrients from the water, suppressing algae growth.
Floating plants include water hyacinth– a succulent with orchid-like purple flowers, and pistia, which looks like greenish-yellow cabbage.
Another very beautiful floating plant is deciduous moss (Azolla caroliniana), which has nitrogen-fixing nodules on its roots. It becomes especially attractive in the fall when it turns reddish in color.
Similar to normal legumes, leaf moss plants capture nitrogen from the air. Leaf moss has a very high vitality, so its reproduction should be kept under control, and excess should be caught and thrown onto the compost heap.
If you want to clean the bottom of the pond, use the drained water as fertilizer. The water and sediment collected at the bottom are rich in organic nutrients, absorbed from fallen leaves, pieces of plants, dead and decomposed fish, frogs and tadpoles. But unless absolutely necessary, you should not clean out the muddy sediment accumulated at the bottom and the insect larvae living there, so as not to deprive the frogs of food.
Photo 2. Edge decoration country pond and its borders are half of its beauty - pay attention to this!
If the pond is properly arranged and there are a lot of plants in it, then this section would be more correctly called “Your pond does not require maintenance.” In a balanced ecosystem, the pond functions on its own. If there are not too many fish in the pond (and they breathe, eat and excrete, as a result of which the oxygen content in the water decreases and ammonia appears) and there are enough plants that extract excess nutrients from the water, then the water will always be clear and the fish will always be healthy . As for algae, microscopic plants that give water green color, then don’t panic. Algae blooms are completely normal. Algae blooms are common in new ponds in spring time, since pond plants have not yet grown enough to effectively filter and shade the water in the pond. When the algae fade in due time, the water will self-purify in a few days.
If self-cleaning does not occur, there are too many fish in the pond, or you are giving them too much food, or you need to put them in a pond more plants, which will obscure the water.
Experts believe that 60% of the surface of the pond should be covered with floating plants or water lilies. To care for the pond, you will need a pump and external electrical wiring.
At the beginning of November, start preparing your garden pond for winter. Collect the last fallen leaves from the surface of the water with a net, do not put off this work for later - after decomposing, the plant debris will enrich the water with nutrients, which will cause rapid development of algae next summer. In addition, the fermentation process produces toxic gases that are very harmful to fish and other pond inhabitants. Although a small amount of algae is still useful: they set the water in motion and thereby prevent it from freezing longer. If you have a net stretched over the pond, then in November it must be removed along with the leaves that have accumulated on it. Plants that are sensitive to low temperatures, such as orontium and the tiny floating fern Azolla Carolinica, should not be left in water. They are caught with a net and kept in an aquarium in winter. Dismantle the pumps and rinse thoroughly. Check the instructions as some models need to be stored in a bucket of water.
