The creaking of wooden floorboards indicates that the boards have dried out during long use and are not firmly attached to the joists. The more annoying this creaking is, the more often the thought comes to finally doing repairs. Behind centuries-old history humanity has come up with enough ways to repair old floors, but in recent years new approaches to solving this problem have emerged. In this article we will look at traditional methods and modern technological innovations.
The condition of squeaky floors may be such that it will be necessary to complete dismantling and rebuilding floorboards. To successfully carry out this procedure, you will need some destructive determination, a small crowbar and a nail puller. It is quite possible that the logs will also be slightly damaged. The torn boards must be carefully examined and the healthiest and strongest ones selected. If necessary, they can be planed a little to even out the deformed edges. It is also possible to replace completely unusable specimens with new ones, in which case you will have to buy additional material. Pay attention to the quality of the new floorboards: they should be dry and smooth, without chips, cracks or falling knots.
After all the preparatory work, we lay the boards again, fitting them tightly and securing them to the joists with self-tapping screws. For a tight connection, you can use spacer wedges - an old and reliable method of craftsmen. It is better not to use ordinary smooth nails for plank floors; over time, they weaken when walked on, and the heads protrude outward. It is better to use rough or twisted nails, which hold the floorboards much stronger than usual. Complete dismantling is done when there is no point in trying to repair cracks that are too wide. In the language of the craftsmen, this is called “sorting out the floors.”
The boardwalk may look quite strong, but squeaking appears only in some areas. It is in these places that you can carefully remove the floorboards and install new ones in their place. In this case, you will need to precisely adjust the new boards so that the coating is free of cracks. For this procedure, a marking pencil, a metal ruler and an electric plane will be useful. Be prepared for the fact that you will have to carefully adjust the new board, gradually trimming it into place so that it fits exactly into the space between the old floorboards. But in most cases, repair work is limited to sealing the resulting cracks, and there are several methods, depending on the width of the gap.
It is customary to leave small gaps between the boardwalk and the wall for ventilation and for the free movement of wood when the material expands from high humidity. These gaps can become excessively large over time to the point where replacing the baseboard is no longer an option. Such cracks can be closed with polyurethane foam.
First you need to carefully remove the baseboards and clean the cracks from dust and dirt. Then we fill the gap with polyurethane foam, and after it has completely dried, we cut it to the level of the floor. The porous structure of the foam can be treated with a thin layer of putty and then painted along with the total floor area.
The well-known and fairly reliable method with sawdust can completely solve the problem of small cracks in plank floors. The composition of the paste is simple: mix small sawdust with PVA glue to a thick mass. We clean the cracks and prime them with the same glue. After the primer has dried, we begin the puttying procedure. Using a thick spatula, press the adhesive mass into the cracks and smooth it thoroughly. After two to three days, the putty will completely dry and harden. Now it can be sanded sandpaper, plan or cycle with a machine. In some cases, a little cement is added to the PVA with sawdust to increase the strength of the repair material. Everything happens according to a well-known scheme, but you need to wait about two weeks for the paste to dry completely.
Sawdust is a great solution to the problem of small cracks even when your floors are covered with clear varnish. Then the dusty wood can be mixed with the same transparent varnish and the cracks can be closed with this paste using a spatula. If the job is done carefully, no sanding will be required. Epoxy resins are also used as a binder for sawdust. This composition can successfully repair not only cracks, but also various dents, chips and cracks in wooden coverings.
You can greatly simplify the process of repairing cracks if you buy ready-made wood putty. It is usually used when the gaps are very small. It is also pressed with a spatula, smoothed and sanded after drying. If you decide to cover wooden floors with transparent varnish, then you can use ready-made putties with pigments to match the color of the wood. If necessary, you can add pigment yourself, achieving the exact shade of pine, oak or walnut.
This is a more complex repair method, but if the cracks are the same width, it can be used successfully. The difficulty is that the thin slats need to be given a slightly wedge-shaped shape so that they can easily fit into the cracks and close them tightly after a little tapping. The fitting process requires special care - the slats should not expand the floorboards too much. During installation, we use PVA glue, which is applied to the walls of the cracks and to the slats. Drilling into the gap is carried out through wooden spacer with an ordinary hammer, and remove the protruding parts of the slats with a plane after the glue has completely dried.
Many types of polymer sealants can solve the problem of cracks quickly and quite effectively. These compositions also include tubes with so-called liquid nails. Applying the sealant is convenient because the adhesive composition can be squeezed out in measured portions through a narrow syringe-shaped nozzle. This way, you can fill gaps of different widths with sealant by cutting the plastic tip to the required length.
Almost all modern sealants have sufficient viscosity and good adhesion to any building materials. The elasticity of the composition is such that it eliminates the annoying creaking of floorboards when filling cracks tightly. Acrylic sealants create an even and durable bonding layer and are easy to paint. Silicone ones are not friendly with paints, but they are much more durable than acrylic ones. You can use composite compounds of silicone with acrylic, in which all positive properties sealants. With these repair methods, you can solve the problem of wood floor cracks easily and with good results.
None of the existing materials has the slightest chance of displacing the good old wood, loved by everyone for its beauty, environmental friendliness and durability, and its ability to store heat, from its pedestal. It is used in many types of construction and renovation work, and wooden floors are especially attractive and pleasant. However, over time, such coatings also develop a big drawback - unsightly gaps between the boards. The reason for this is the drying out of the natural material. Not all owners are ready for drastic changes, and they don’t really want to part with a cozy floor, so the question of how to seal the cracks in the floor will always remain relevant. There are several methods, and they are all quite effective, simple, and therefore do not require special skills from the owners.
If the owners eliminate the cracks, but do not identify the culprits of their formation, then soon the defects that appear will “delight” them again. Therefore, the first necessary step is to discover the causes of the cracks. Several factors can be suspected of “complicity.”
The scope of work depends only on the size and number of cracks, so repairs can be either simple or incredibly complex. The most serious damage already requires radical measures - complete replacement floor.
Since the problem has been known to people for a long time, quite a lot of ways have been invented to get rid of defects. Before work, you need to thoroughly study each type of removal, and then choose how to seal the cracks in the floor so that you forget about the flaw for a long time.
This method has a big advantage - it is cheaper than other “treatment” options, but it is effective. To camouflage irritating cracks in the floor, the following operation is performed:
Any composition will adhere reliably only in one case - if the cracks are properly cleaned. When dirt cannot be removed, the gaps are widened. Otherwise, the work will be ineffective: cracks in the floor will appear again.
In this case, there are two ways to prepare a saving mixture: glue (PVA for wood or carpentry) with only sawdust and a product in which cement is also added for greater strength. A clean composition for small cracks is done like this:
Gaps in the floor with a width of 3-7 mm require other sawdust - large ones. It’s even better to take a mixture of different factions.
Preparing a super product with cement requires precise proportions, so measure out:
The technology here is also different:
This composition is used not only for sealing cracks, the method is used to level the entire surface of a wooden floor.
Here other ingredients, more native and familiar to the floor, become “colleagues” of small chips. This composition can “cure” cracks of any depth and width.
This method is very common, because it is difficult to argue with the logic of this decision. Thin slats, lubricated with adhesive, are very easy to drive into any cracks, and gaps hidden in this way will cease to be a headache for a long time (forever?). The work is done like this:
Identical gaps in the floor are very rare, and making wedges for each gap is a small pleasure. Therefore, all holes are adjusted to the same size using a milling cutter. The advantage of this work is the removal of old wood: the fibers on the fresh cut and wedges guarantee a more reliable connection.
This method is suitable for those who have rodents in their floors, who are happy to test even concrete. Therefore, a simple solution is not a panacea; it can quickly turn into a “washcloth”. And in this case, it is best to first cover the seam with broken glass (for example, fragments of rather thin beer bottles), then fill this “anti-personnel ditch” with concrete, and putty on top.
Worthy alternatives to broken glass are dishwashing wire cut into pieces, store-bought construction mixture containing aluminum chips and concrete mortar. They say that Macroflex polyurethane foam belongs to this category, which is unloved by rodents, but such material is not optimal for the cracks between the boards.
To implement this method, any twine or rope is suitable; the thickness of the cord depends only on the width of the cracks in the floor: it must be larger than the holes. You will also need glue (PVA, wood glue), sawdust and putty. The work proceeds in the following sequence:
To get rid of small cracks, use plumbing tow in almost the same way, which is also lubricated (wetted) with glue. It is placed in the holes, compacted, and after drying the floor is painted.
The newest alternative is a sealing cord made from polyethylene foam. It does not need glue; 4-5 mm of free space is left on top. It is covered with putty, the best type is an oil-based composition for wood.
This method is considered one of the best options for dealing with dry boards. The epoxy-cement “mortar” is praised because of the reliability and strength of such a composition.
Not everyone welcomes this type of adhesive composition, which guarantees strong adhesion. The reason is frequent emergencies during operation - its breaking off along with large fragments of boards.
This is the most original answer to the question of how to seal cracks in the floor. The use of this method is advisable when cracks in wooden floor can't be counted. In this case, “plastering work” will take a lot of time. Therefore the most effective method- laying sheets of chipboard or plywood. However, after this radical operation, a new topcoat will be required.
The sheets are attached to liquid nails, self-tapping screws or regular nails. When choosing the last two types of fasteners, holes are first drilled in the material with a slightly smaller diameter than those of self-tapping screws (nails). The reason for this need is possible deformation of the material.
The construction market now does not know the word “shortage”, so the choice of different compositions is simply huge. Many of them are created specifically to disguise all sorts of imperfections. Therefore, the question of how to seal the cracks in the floor can be asked to the sellers, but it is better to get to know the possible candidates in advance.
Their main “vocation” is to make the seams of materials inaccessible to moisture. There are 2 types of sealants suitable for working with wooden floors:
The order of work is as follows:
The operation is simple and straightforward; it also does not require excessive effort. However, the main condition for success is thorough preliminary cleaning of the cracks.
It is recommended to use construction foam only for sealing cracks around the perimeter of the room, and not between the boards. The reasons for disapproval are deformation of the coating under pressure, uneven filling, change in the shade of the foam under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The whole operation for areas under the baseboards is as follows:
This option cannot be considered a reliable replacement for the previous methods, since this composition will eventually begin to crack, crumble, and fall out. The meager range of colors is another drawback. Situations in which the use of these mixtures is justified are the expectation of a quick repair if the floor is planned to be covered. The work is carried out in the following order:
To seal cracks, some recommend using parquet putty, since it has greater elasticity and does not crack so easily. If you are planning to lay tiles or laminate flooring soon, then proceed much simpler: seal the cracks with tape.
This method gives you a chance to seal small cracks on the floor. It is also suitable if unsightly cracks appear on the surface. This operation requires a certain type of putty - dry finishing mixture, intended for drywall. The same PVA acts as glue.
The composition is mixed in small portions so that its consistency resembles the thickness of sour cream. After applying it to the cracks, the putty-glue is immediately sanded, then quickly leveled, since otherwise it will quickly harden, and in this state it will not be possible to perform the operation efficiently.
This kind of trouble happens for two reasons: an incorrect lag step is to blame, or the wrong boards were chosen - too thin material. There are also two ways out - installing additional logs or installing thicker boards. Both of them are not very attractive, since they involve dismantling flooring. Yes, these options are optimal, but there is a simple way - rallying adjacent elements with dowels. It makes it possible to stop the “play” of the tree and eliminate the deflection.
This operation is not so simple, because there are many nuances in it.
Dowels soaked in glue are installed in holes also treated with the compound. The connections are left alone until dry. The raised part of the chops is removed with a grinder, and the cut is polished with what is at hand - the same angle grinder, a hand grinder, or a drill with an appropriate attachment, but at low speeds.
The question of how to seal the cracks in the floor can now be considered closed. Since the choice suitable material depends to a large extent on the depth and width of the flaws, then the owners will have to decide: any means will do, and it doesn’t matter at all whether they are popular or purchased. However, the best way out is to unite the sexes. In this case, the cracks will no longer appear, which means you don’t have to be afraid that at one “wonderful” moment all the “good” that was carefully stuffed in will fall out again.
One of the options for transforming a cracked floor can be seen in this video:
People often encounter problems such as gaps between the floor and the wall. They appear over time or as a result of the unscrupulous approach of finishers when renovating an apartment. Such spaces need to be eliminated as soon as possible. It’s worth asking in advance about how to seal the gaps between the floor and the wall. In addition to the fact that they spoil the appearance of the apartment, dampness and drafts penetrate into the house through the cracks. The presence of voids can contribute to the appearance of cockroaches. They penetrate through all sorts of cracks. How and with what can you eliminate the gap in the space between the wall and the floor? More on this later.
Sealing cracks will not require much time and effort from residents. There are several stages of work:
To seal a small gap, the size of which is no more than one centimeter, it is permissible to use such Construction Materials, like putty and cement. Mounting plaster is also suitable for use.
If the gap is from two to five centimeters, then it is better to seal it with polyurethane foam. If it is more than five centimeters, then the work will become more difficult. You'll have to buy other materials.
Filling the resulting voids can be classified as cosmetic repairs. How to seal the gaps between the floor and the wall depends on the type of damage, as well as the interior decoration of the room. All preparation will depend on whether the walls and floors in the apartment are decorated. The plinth is removed, as well as the wallpaper. If the baseboard for the floor is high, it is worth attaching it back, then the seam will be completely invisible. When there is a layer of paint, it must be removed by stripping. Whitewash is washed away by water. Before starting work, the wall must be completely dry.
All accumulated dirt should be removed from around the work area. When a gap is sealed in an already renovated room, the wallpaper must be partially removed. If the coating allows, only the strip above the floor is removed. You need to buy a film and cover all places where dirt from work can get in. Protective coatings will “save” floors from getting damaged polyurethane foam. The paint is difficult to wipe off the surface; precautions should be taken when painting. When planning work using water, it makes no sense to cover the area around with newspapers or papers.
If it is necessary to seal the gaps between the floor and the wall and the voids are very large, then you can use foam or plastic. When you have unnecessary pieces of brick on hand, they are ideal for repair work. Large parts should be broken down into small components. The smaller the parts, the more evenly they will “settle” inside the gap. The entire cavity will be filled as a result. An important point will be to carefully fill the voids. The task is to prevent further expansion of the resulting void.
Some people use alabaster in their work. This material is cheap and economical to use. Beginners in the repair business ask about how to dilute alabaster. The main thing is to follow the recommendations on the packaging and not make the solution completely liquid. How to dilute alabaster? It should resemble thick glue in composition.
The above materials significantly save your budget. How to seal the gaps between the floor and ceiling? Polyurethane foam will cost you a lot, and after “filling” the cracks with improvised materials, you will spend a maximum of one can of foam on upper layer. This amount of foam is used even for large cavities.
Experts advise choosing TechnoNIKOL polyurethane foam. It has proven itself on the market for a long time. Distinctive feature TechnoNIKOL polyurethane foam is of high quality and quick adhesion.
It is necessary to fill the void by one third, to a maximum of 50 percent. It is allowed to apply foam only in a thin layer; it is possible to apply several layers. It's worth waiting for the last one to dry before applying the next one. With this pouring method, there will be no excess foam and no flakes will fall out. Material consumption is significantly reduced.
The question often arises about how to seal the gaps between the floor and the wall if the space is small. To fill a small gap, you need to have precision movements and dexterity. Soft materials are suitable for work. They must be plastic. It is important that the cavity filler has a high density. Such materials include construction felt. Tow is more often used. To prevent insects from settling in the cracks, they are treated with insect repellent sprays.
The material at hand should be rolled into rolls of small diameter, which is not very larger size cracks. The required filler is driven into the gap using a hammer. It is better to take a rubber construction hammer. It will help to smoothly fill the resulting void. It is necessary that the material is solid and there are no small parts. Usually cracks form in them.
If the cavity is very small and the tow will not fit into it, then a gypsum solution helps in this matter. It quickly fills all the cracks. The solution fills the space as much as possible. You can also treat the surface of walls with it.
To avoid staining surfaces near the work site, you can purchase self-adhesive construction fabric. When the cavity is clogged, you can begin to decorate the seam.
When a house becomes old, the walls become deformed. The wood floor begins to warp and dry out. What to do in such a situation? Professionals advise sealing the gaps between the floor and the wall. The faster the better.
There is acrylic sealant. They work with the help of a special device in which a balloon is placed. The spaces between the elements are treated with sealant.
In most cases, you have to use polyurethane foam, even if you only need a little of it. You need to know how to use it correctly. The gaps between the floor and the wall must be foamed immediately after the defect is discovered. Here are some tips:
Ideally, after removing excess foam, a small depression remains. What do you do in this case? It is usually sealed with a thin layer of putty. Using a spatula, distribute the mass evenly. Plaster work is allowed. When the layer of mortar hardens, you will get an even seam. It can be covered with a plinth or the seam can be covered with wallpaper. It is good to choose a floor plinth with a cable channel, it is convenient to attach. Finishing with tiles or wood is allowed, depending on the design of the room.
It is worth checking for damage between the floor and ceiling before starting finishing work and repairing it quickly. In this case, damage to already repaired surfaces can be avoided. By adhering to these recommendations, you can save money spent on finishing materials.
If you had to seal a seam in an already renovated room, then you need to follow all safety measures and try to keep the repair in its original form. Particular care must be taken when using polyurethane foam. After all, it can expand.
So, we found out how and with what to seal the gaps between the floor and the wall. As you can see, the operation can be completely done with your own hands. But in order for the work to be of high quality, you should follow the recommendations of specialists and prepare the solution correctly.
Eco-friendly, warm floors made of pure wood have been and always remain outside of any fashion or trends. Everything about it is good - design, comfort, and practicality. But there is one “but” - cracks. Their formation is perhaps the most significant drawback of any wooden floor. First of all, cracks in the floor bother many people because cold comes through them. This is inevitable if the foundation under the floor is ventilated through external vents - it is through them that frosty air enters, which is simply drawn into the room. Another bad thing about cracks in a wooden floor is that everything possible gets clogged up in them - dirt, dust, organic matter. This not only gives the surface an unaesthetic appearance, but also turns out to be detrimental to the boards themselves - they can begin to rot.
But the problem is completely solvable - just choose the method or method that will be easier for you to apply.
But let’s first look for the source of the cracks, from which we will build.
It is clear that any wooden boards dry out over time - and this is the first and most common reason for the appearance of cracks. In this case, then it is better to purchase boards that are processed at the factory using the “vacuum drying” method, when intracellular moisture is completely removed, followed by impregnation. With this material you don’t have to worry about drying out.
But a regular wooden floor takes three to six years to dry. And the most problematic thing in this regard is pine - it needs to be re-laid three times in three years, and only after that you will have a normal floor that you can scrape. That's why, if the floorboard is still in good condition and, in fact, still drying, go over the floor. You'll be surprised, but after shrinking you may suddenly have a few extra boards going in!
Something similar happens when working with Euroboards. And this is when you have previously acclimatized the boards themselves, and no problems should have arisen, but even with forceful pressure, up to 0.5 mm gaps remain between the boards. In this case, even before sanding, you need to fill such openings with a mixture of PVA glue, sawdust and paint, and you can rub it all in with a rubber spatula, then sand it and remove the excess.
Place a bucket of water next to the heating radiators and monitor the behavior of the cracks throughout the day. If they have become noticeably smaller, the air in your home is simply too dry. And if you now go through the entire floor and pull the boards together as closely as possible, then in the summer they will bend and go in “waves.” Therefore, for greater confidence, purchase a hygrometer - a humidity meter, and check the air for this parameter.
To be fair, we note that dry air is also bad for health, and therefore you should think about sprayers and other devices that can solve this problem.
If the cracks have arisen due to the active activity of mice, it is not enough to simply seal them. After all, new ones will appear! Therefore, we first get rid of rodents or control their population as much as possible, and only then work with the cracks. How to get rid of it? Here are some ways:
It is impossible to completely remove rodents from your home, just like bacteria. But making your home as clean and safe as possible is fine.
Sometimes cracks occur because the boards are “walking.” And this is a direct consequence of improper installation. And, if the boards “walk”, then even the best sealant will come off - it will just remain on one of the sides. Here everything depends on how “tightly” the floor is immobilized. If it’s maximal, not a single putty in the cracks will crack, but if the boards sag even a little, then it’s a must.
To prevent the boards from “walking” and the sealants in the cracks coming off, nail them to the joists - with regular nails, but at an angle.
Cracks of this kind arise from the fact that the wood simply turns into dust. Be sure to thoroughly inspect the wood floor – what condition is it in? Perhaps the top is still solid, but all the boards underneath have rotted. In this case - only major renovation with complete restyle, and nothing else.
If the situation can be corrected, then proceed as follows:
If the cold is coming from under the floor, and even inconspicuous cracks allow a draft to pass through, in this case it is better to close the vents themselves tightly (which is being done more and more often lately), draw a ventilation hole through the room itself (there are special grilles for this) , and leave the small distances between the boards alone until spring, when they tighten themselves.
But, if the lags just sank a little, do this:
Please also pay attention to this important point. If your only crawl space ventilation is through cracks in the floor, then closing them completely will cause the boards to rot. Just research first to see if you have vents or vents. After all, it often happens that city residents buy themselves in early spring dacha with wooden floors, and by summer they already sag when walking - the former owner simply closed the vents for the winter, which is technologically correct, and in the spring no one opened them. And the boards, as they say, “suffocated.” A damp basements They also love earth fleas, which easily jump into the living room in winter.
If your underground is not ventilated through the foundation or a special air flow system, then make ventilation holes in the corners of the floor. Otherwise, dampness and quickly rotting wood will be ensured, because before this your floors had small or noticeable gaps between the boards, where the necessary air flowed, but now you will block them. If the crawl space is too cold and you are concerned about insulating the floor, supply ventilation Instead of corners, organize through the foundation.
But sometimes, when the board has deteriorated and the cracks have made themselves felt, an entire section of the floor has to be replaced:
The choice of such funds today is huge!
Let's be honest: factory putties for cracks are not the best option. Firstly, they often crack, and secondly, the number of colors is limited, which is why the seams then stand out on the floor. Although some are quite optimistic about this point - after all, this method produces a good imitation of a deck.
Wood is a living material, and therefore gap fillers must also be elastic. Wood sealants today are sold mainly in two types - acrylic and silicone.
You need to use silicone sealant to seal cracks correctly:
For ease of insertion of sealant, use a mounting syringe - it not only saves material, but also makes it possible to reach the most inaccessible places.
We buy a special sealant for wood. It is sold in all modern construction stores, in special tubes and the different color. One of best brands– Kimtec Laminate. This sealant tolerates changes in humidity and temperature well, and is easy to sand and varnish. Good feedback also about the Sikaflex-11FC sealant - even with expansion up to 200% of the thickness of such a gap, no cracks or tears will occur.
Unlike silicone sealant, acrylic does not smell like vinegar, is absolutely transparent (it is water-based), and is easy to wash off your hands.
Place a thin cocktail tube over its spout, flatten it and stick it into the slot. It is convenient to compress the tube using simple pliers. Adjust the gun to low feed. Work quickly because... the foam hardens quickly, so it’s better to have several of these tubes with you. If the gap is too narrow for the flattened tube to even fit through, then just lean it against the hole. You need to press the foam with a flat object - a wet, soapy bar. Don't worry about environmental friendliness: dried polyurethane foam does not release anything into the air.
Just don’t try to remove it with a spatula while it’s still damp - it will smear everything around, and it will be difficult to clean later. Just after drying, carefully cut with a sharp knife. But even when dried, it is quite sticky and porous; all the dirt that can be found will be drawn to it. In addition, the foam is destroyed by sun rays, and therefore be sure to paint over such cracks in several layers.
Polyurethane foam as a material for sealing cracks is also good because it creates additional thermal insulation.
If the aesthetic moment is not at all important, or there is carpet on a wooden floor, then simply cover the cracks with gray reinforced tape, 5 cm wide. Secure it around the edges with a stapler, and you can forget about drafts or odors.
But there are also older, but centuries-tested methods. Each of them has its own pros and cons, but sometimes simple solutions turn out to be more effective than modern means.
You can also close large gaps in the floor using slats:
You can make a good putty for cracks yourself. For this, purchase a composition based on a binding resin, and collect small sawdust. Mix it all, and use the resulting component to seal the cracks.
Osmo resin is also suitable for this purpose, but the reviews about Borma are not the best - those who tried to seal cracks with such a binder complained about the strong bad smell and a small amount in the packaging of the product itself.
Cracks that do not exceed one centimeter can be easily sealed with a tourniquet. Next, fill it with the same red or varnish as the floor itself. It's simple.
But the “old-fashioned” way of mixing PVA with wood dust is bad because such putty darkens over time and looks sloppy.
We take ordinary tow to fix plumbing pipe connections, mix it with PVA glue, put it in the cracks and cover it with paint.
Small cracks are covered with linseed oil and wax, always hot - this way the wax flows into the cracks. The only requirement is that the floor must be perfectly clean before such work, otherwise dirt will get stuck in the cracks along with the wax.
In very bad cases, when the gaps are huge, we simply fill them with wood plugs and lay a layer of wood-laminated board or plywood on top. Only on top of all this will it be possible to lay the finishing decorative coating.
A little more about the process itself. The plywood is secured with self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. And so that the plywood does not deform in the places where the screws are attached, it is necessary to make holes in it and process them with a large-diameter drill. Alternatively, use a countersink. This will allow you to fasten the screws “sunk”, flush with the surface.
Buy self-tapping screws 90 mm long, and a couple of 120 mm pieces for attaching the joists to the flooring itself, and self-tapping screws 36 mm long for sheets. You can also attach plywood to joists using “liquid nails” and fix it with nails.
Sections of the sheathing can be filled with any heat-insulating material, except mineral wool. Leave gaps - if the plywood sheets come into contact with each other, you will not be able to avoid squeaking in the future. Also carefully screw in the screws - “sunken” caps often end up with the screws themselves breaking and splinters appearing around the caps. See the process itself in more detail:
This method works well for the largest gaps that are difficult to fill even with sealant.
Another “old-fashioned method” is wood dust mixed with floor varnish. It’s not easy to assemble, but the result will definitely please you.
This method is one of the fastest and most reliable:
If the floor slab is uneven, then it is necessary to place bosses under the joists, and on them - pieces of linoleum or roofing felt. Logs cannot be supported on wooden stands alone - there must be compensators, because wood is subject to thermal expansion.
And sometimes, in a situation with a very old, destroyed floor, it is easier to replace it with a good concrete screed:
That's the whole collection of methods - choose the one that seemed most simple and rational to you.
For many centuries, people have been using wood as flooring in their homes. Of course, modern options made from high-quality materials have begun to replace wooden floors, but many people even now, despite fashion trends, give preference to environmentally friendly and practical wood products.
However, wooden floors have their own characteristics, which are associated with the gradual formation of cracks in them. This feature entails a number of unpleasant moments associated with creaking, clogging of these spaces with household dust, and most importantly, the flow of cold air into the home. Therefore, those who decide to make a floor from wood immediately need to think through options for how to seal the cracks in a wooden floor. Fortunately, over many years people have learned to eliminate this nuance using various modern methods and materials.
The formation of cracks between the boards covering the floor is an inevitable process. The more often repairs and rearrangement of furniture occur in the house, the faster wear occurs. wooden covering. If you treat the floor with care, take care of it, ensure optimal temperature conditions in the apartment, and try to distribute the load created by the weight of the furniture, then it will last a very long time. If used carefully, the wood will dry out, but not too much.
Small cracks can be easily repaired by performing simple cosmetic repairs to the floor. different ways accessible to almost every person. Filling large spaces that have been formed for a long time will be very labor-intensive due to the large volume of work.
There are several options for repairing wooden floors:
Of course, no one wants to change their entire floor. But if we are talking about large gaps, damage to the battens on which the flooring is fixed, then complete dismantling - perfect solution. Using auxiliary tools, old boards are removed, inspected for defects and those that are suitable for reuse are selected.
Boards in which cracks are found are subject to repair work. If possible, completely damaged floorboards are thrown away and replaced with new ones. Reinforcing joists are also inspected and dismantled if it is clear that they will not last long (the strength of the joists is essential, because it is their condition that determines the reliability of the floor itself).
When all the floorboards have been repaired and replaced, each of them is carefully adjusted to each other so that there are no gaps or differences in height. If necessary, such defects are smoothed out with a plane.
If the floor is damaged locally, these operations are carried out only in the area that requires replacing the floorboards.
Gaps in wood - natural process for this material. You shouldn't take this problem seriously. The main thing is to understand the reason why changes occurred in the wood, leading to the formation of voids and gaps, since repairing the floor can be a waste of time and money if the provoking factor is not eliminated.
The most common reason- drying out of wood due to low humidity. Despite the fact that it changes seasonally, and in the off-season, when the humidity outside is quite high due to a large amount of precipitation and the boards are also saturated with moisture, damaged floorboards, alas, cannot return to their original state, since they are irrevocably deformed.
The humidity problem can be eliminated with the help of special humidifiers and the right temperature. indoors, focusing on installed thermohygrometers.
The optimal moisture range for wood is about 40-50%.
The second reason for the drying out of the boards may be due to the initially incorrect installation of the floor covering. Firstly, it depends on the screed: if it is not properly dried, then residual moisture will be absorbed into the flooring and contribute to its deformation in the future. The screed must dry for at least a month. Its humidity at the time of laying the floor should not exceed more than 3-5%.
The durability of the flooring is influenced by the moisture content of the plywood placed under the boards.. Before installation, it must be properly dried so as not to release excess moisture into the plank floor.
The adhesive used to lay wood flooring also contains a large number of moisture. It easily evaporates from the wood during the drying period only if the floor is not yet varnished. That's why to avoid an unpleasant situation, you need to leave the floor clean for the glue to dry completely for about a week, and only then paint and varnish it.
If a wooden floor is laid in a private house, where the boards are more massive and thick, choose an adhesive with a minimum amount of solvents or without them at all, so that the thick layer of wood does not retain excess moisture. Whereas narrow planks (the floors of which can be found in old Khrushchev apartments) cope with this task more easily.
The third reason for the formation of cracks in a wooden floor is the type of wood. The most capricious in this regard are materials made from ash, cherry or beech.. They are able to easily release moisture when the temperature in the room rises and take it away under appropriate conditions. Such fluctuations inevitably lead to changes in the density and geometry of the board. For the middle band oak is the most resistant to humidity changes. Tropical tree species cope very well with this problem.
In any case, if a cracking problem occurs, you need to fix it.
It is important that floor restoration (sealing cracks, sanding, varnishing) will be most justified and effective when the room is exposed to stable humidity for a long time.
Depending on the degree of damage to the floor, the most optimal method of repairing it is chosen. The most well-known method of cosmetic repair of small cracks and cracks in a wooden floor is filling them with special semi-liquid compounds (construction foam, sealants, putty and other multi-component mixtures). You can make them yourself or purchase them ready-made at a hardware store.
If the tree is severely deformed and wide cracks appear, they can be removed using foam plastic, narrow planks or rope cords. This is a rather labor-intensive method, but more durable than the first. Perhaps the most expensive and time-consuming floor repair is the complete or partial replacement of damaged floorboards.
When dismantling the floors is still a long way off or replacing old boards is not possible, but the cracks are already causing a number of inconveniences, special semi-liquid mixtures are used to fill them.
When choosing a filling mixture for floor repair, you need to focus on those compositions that are suitable for woodwork. For sealing small seams You can use silicone sealant. Pigments are added to the composition of this material. This way, you can choose a sealant that perfectly matches the color of the floor. This composition has good adhesive characteristics to wood. Apply it with a rubber or plastic staple, evenly distributing and leveling the surface with its help.
After the mixture hardens, a smooth surface is obtained that does not absorb moisture and is not destroyed under the influence of detergents. This, as well as the advantage that the material of this sealant does not crumble and is not removed from cracks throughout the entire life of the floor, makes it very competitive.
Acrylic sealants are used similarly to this material.. The only difference is that the sealed cracks will have to be painted over, since no dyes are added to this mixture.
Concerning gypsum putties, they are also very popular when repairing wooden floors, mainly due to its low price. Like the previous mixtures, the putty is applied with a staple and wait until it dries. Then the application is repeated, since upon drying a large amount of moisture evaporates and the material shrinks.
After the final layer has dried, the surface of the seams must be sanded and painted over with the chosen paint. The putty material does not polymerize like the sealants described above, so over time it may crack and the seams will have to be sealed again.
Epoxy resin putties are considered more practical.. Due to the high degree of adhesion and low shrinkage coefficient, this mixture is widely used for sealing cracks and crevices up to 5 cm. After hardening, a very durable composition is formed that does not require re-processing.
Many craftsmen use self-prepared mixtures.
The most famous option is PVA glue and sawdust . Compositions with epoxy resin, cement and pieces of polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. After drying, the seams are sanded and painted to match the color of the floor, then varnished.
When the width of the cracks is more than 3 cm, and the boards “walk” among themselves, they resort to the method of sealing the seams.
You can repair the “playing” floor with your own hands:
Rope cord can be used as a masking element. Repairing a floor using rope is easy. This product is ideal for making repairs in wooden log houses and country houses.Choose thick polyethylene or tow rope, cut off the required length (you can use double rope for deep crevices). Drive the cord tightly into the space between the floorboards.
To make the repaired floor look neat, you can cover the surface of the rope with a thin layer of colored sealant and level it with a staple.
If on old dacha the floor is rotten or deteriorated due to moisture, very large cracks have appeared from which there is blowing, or rodents have “worked”, the methods described above are unlikely to be suitable. Of course, you can do without disassembling the floor by covering it with sheets of plywood, but this option is not always justified, especially when it comes to mice. It is best to re-lay old boards. This will not only get rid of cracks, but also eliminate mouse passages.
To get rid of the old floor, first remove the baseboards, replace damaged joists, and inspect the area under the floor for mold and mouse holes. If there are traces of mold, the surfaces are treated with special antibacterial and antifungal compounds. Places where rodents have entered are sealed with a mixture of cement and broken glass, and then they begin to replace the old coating.
If you need to change the boards locally, you need to pay attention to the joints of the old boards and the newly laid ones (if necessary, they are adjusted using a plane, putty, or smoothed with coarse sandpaper).
In case of careless operation and non-compliance optimal conditions the wooden floor inevitably begins to deform, creating an unpleasant creaking sound. The easiest way to eliminate annoying sound is to fill the cracked spaces with foam. This option is well suited for cracks under skirting boards, as they can hide uneven surface frozen foam. However, this method is short-lived: this material gradually deteriorates during use, and the floor creaks again.
If the task is to remove a squeaky floor forever, then this option is not worth the money spent. It is better to turn to more complex but reliable methods. The problem of a squeaky floor can be solved using the same wedge-shaped slats.
Another interesting and effective option that will allow get rid of floor squeaks - installing metal anchors. This type of product can solve the problem only for a wooden floor laid on a concrete base. This one is very effective method very labor-intensive, especially if the scale of the problem surface is impressive.
To install anchors, you will need a drill or hammer drill, dowels and the anchors themselves. A hole is made through the board through the log material into the concrete base. A dowel is driven in and the joist is reinforced with anchors. It is necessary to take into account the high cost of this method, proportional to the size of the room. When calculating the number of structures, it should be borne in mind that the distance between them should not exceed one meter.
If ordinary nails were initially used when installing the floor, it is possible that the creaking occurs as a result of friction of the wood against the body of the nail.
IN in this case, especially if there are a lot of cracks in the floor, you should not skimp and update the old boards, and replace the nails with self-tapping screws that will not make such noise.
Disassemble the floor completely - labor-intensive process, but removing deformed floorboards and old fastenings with nails will not only get rid of squeaks, but will also allow you to insulate the room due to the absence of cracks.
A simple method to combat creaking floorboards is to lay thick sheets of plywood on top of wood flooring. Such a floor will be quiet for some time, but it is not a fact that this problem will not recur later.
The process of restoring a wooden floor is completed by painting and varnishing it. Before painting, you need to check the condition of the boards again, and if there are cracks, carefully fill them with putty.
When choosing paint for a wooden floor, you should consider:
If you are considering floor varnishing, you should know that this option is not suitable if:
There are several types of floor coverings: water-dispersion paints, oil-based paints and wax paints.
It is better to use water-dispersion paint if allergy sufferers or people with asthma live in the apartment.
The oldest method is considered to be the method of treating wooden floors with oil.. This method is distinguished by its efficiency and safety. Wood oils, refined soy and sunflower bases, as well as synthetic and natural resins are used as bases. Oil and resin have a bactericidal effect and soften the friction of the boards against each other. In addition, an oiled floor does not absorb moisture well (you won’t be afraid to flood the floor) and does not remove it very actively, so cracks will form less often.
After the floor has been coated with oil, it is necessary to seal the result with wax. Used to be everywhere in the rich noble houses used wax to polish the floor. A waxed floor can be found in “Stalin” buildings. And now old, strong but worn floors are being restored using wax bases to give them a fresh, updated look. Wax compounds are made from oil base with the addition of beeswax and additional components that increase the elasticity of the composition. Wood treated in this way looks expensive and of good quality.
To effectively restore an old wooden floor, you need to take into account some nuances before starting such a difficult job.
Not every putty is suitable for sealing seams in wood in Stalin. For example, if you are repairing cracks in a cedar, beech or chestnut floor, you cannot use acrylic putty. When interacting with varnish, nitro solvents can cause blue stains on the surface of the boards, so when using such compositions it is advisable not to varnish the floors. The ideal option would be a colored sealant.. It can be used to make simple repairs to small cracks in almost any wood.
If the wooden flooring is badly damaged, but there is no way to replace it, you can cover and strengthen it with sheets of plywood, but you should first fill the deep cracks so that later there is no blowing from them.
It is not difficult to re-install an old wooden floor, but it is even easier to use it carefully, then it will last for decades and remain in excellent condition.
For information on how to seal gaps between laminate boards, see below.
