But it is not without a number of shortcomings. If you forget to do strip foundation vents (or incorrectly calculate their cross-section), then over time this can lead to problems. Due to insufficient underground ventilation wooden joists become covered with fungus, mold and rot. Excess moisture in the base also leads to destruction concrete floors floor of the first floor.
To avoid this, you can replace traditional vents with a closed, ventilated underground. This is discussed in detail in the article. “Are vents needed in the basement?” . But there is another option - to abandon the underground and build a floor on the ground based on a strip foundation, as FORUMHOUSE experts advise.
Floors on the ground: what is it?such
This design is a monolithic concrete base(screed). Here is the construction of the floor on the ground: the screed is poured inside the perimeter of the strip foundation onto well-compacted soil, which is used to fill the foundation sinuses and a layer of insulation. A heated floor system can be installed together with a concrete base. This design accumulates heat, so it is well suited as an element of an energy-efficient home.
Floor composition based on soil for a residential building.
The following flooring options are distinguished:
Let's take a closer look at the pros and cons of these options.
Mikhail1974:
– If you pour a “floating” screed, this “unties” the structure of the tape and the floor. If shrinkage occurs, the structure of the floor screed on the ground will “play” regardless of the foundation; cracks will not appear in the structure, because no tension. That's a plus. But there is also a minus - the structure “lives its own life”, separate from all other structures.
Floor installation on the ground.
With a rigid structure, the foundation/screed assembly works as a single whole. The screed will not shrink, because lies on the foundation. But if the soil is not compacted well enough, after a while it may sag and the screed will “hang” in the air. Under heavy load, if there are walls, partitions, or supporting elements on the screed, this can lead to deformation of the base, cracks and loss bearing capacity the entire floor structure on the ground.
How to make a floor on the ground
Both screed options have both pros and cons. The quality of concrete floors on bulk soil largely depends on the quality of compaction of the bulk soil and on how correct the design is.
Mikhail1974:
– When pouring a “floating” screed, the “foundation wall/screed” knot must really be untied, otherwise the structure may become pinched in the tape frame. Those. the floor inside the tape frame must move relatively freely, otherwise the whole point of a floating screed is lost.
To do this, a damper is made of an elastic material between the screed and the foundation (wall), which restores its original shape after removing the load - in this case it is appropriate to place an isolon 8-10 mm thick. This will allow the concrete screed to “float” freely and compensate for its thermal expansion.
A common mistake is to tie all the knots as tightly as possible. As a result, increased loads occur in structures. In the case of a floating screed, the “floor” and “foundation” elements work independently of each other.
Floor on the ground: device.Basic principles
An important rule: a well-prepared foundation is the key to a long service life of the entire structure. The backfill base (the best backfill for the floor on the ground is sand) must be spilled with water and thoroughly compacted in layers of 10-15 cm. In order to properly compact the base, filling with crushed stone is used (crushed stone should be laid under the floors in a coarse fraction).
Due to the filling of crushed stone, when a tamper is driven through it, a local impact occurs, as a result of which deep compaction of the soil layers lying at the lower levels occurs. It is worth focusing on the correct technique for compacting sand.
– All instructions for vibrating plates say that the plate compacts sand to a depth of 20-30 cm, but I doubt that this layer is compacted well enough. Therefore, I believe that, to be on the safe side, it is better to compact the sand in layers of about 10 cm. It looks like this:
You need to spill water so that the sand is wet, but not oversaturated with moisture. If the amount of water is too large, the sand base will practically not be compacted.
What kind of waterproofing to put on the floor on the ground
After thorough preparation of the base, we begin laying hydro-vapor barrier, which will protect the floor structure from moisture. People often ask whether it is necessary to make a footing before laying this layer. After all, in order to avoid damage, welded or glued waterproofing must be placed on a flat, rigid base.
Most developers, when choosing a ground floor floor design, consider two options. The first is reinforced concrete slabs.
Second - wooden beams(lags). Many people do not realize that it is possible to make a high-quality and inexpensive floor on the ground.
Meanwhile, this design cannot be called new. It began to be used after the invention of artificial stone called concrete.
About what it represents flooring on bulk soil, what its pros and cons are, we will talk in this article.
At its core, a ground floor is a “cushion” of fine crushed stone or expanded clay, on which lies a reinforced slab of monolithic concrete. Ballast bedding performs two tasks:
The floor is protected from soil moisture and heat loss by insulation laid on a layer of waterproofing.
The load-bearing basis of such a coating is a layer of soil. Therefore, the main risk factors when installing a floor on the ground in a private house are frost heaving and moisture. The first threat is blocked by insulating the foundation base from the outside with sheet foam. It cuts off the cold bridge that causes water to freeze.
It should be noted that when permanent residence in the house, the temperature of the soil underneath never drops below zero degrees. If the building is empty in winter, then the forces of frost heaving can cause cracks in the concrete screed and deform it. In this case, you cannot do without insulating the base.
Protection from soil moisture is a relatively simple measure only at low levels groundwater(2-3 meters). On raw and marshy areas It is better to refuse the installation of such a coating. The cost of waterproofing and strengthening the foundation in this case increases significantly.
For piles and columnar foundations slab on the ground - no The best decision. In this case, the cost of protecting the bedding from frost is higher than when using a foundation “tape”.
There are two ways to install floors on the ground:
The first method is rarely used today. It was developed at a time when roofing felt was used to protect floors from moisture. To glue it, we made a layer concrete preparation(subfloor).
The second option is simpler and cheaper. Modern waterproofing materials can be laid directly on the ballast pad without sticking to a solid base.
The process of installing a concrete floor on the ground begins with pouring the underlying layer. Before this, the installation of water supply and sewerage networks must be completed.
For backfilling, you can use any well-compacted soil. Fine crushed stone (fraction 5-10 mm), coarse river sand or sand-gravel mixture are suitable for this. The pillow is poured in layers of 15 cm, spilling each with water and compacting with a manual or mechanical tamper.
Compacting the bedding with a vibrating rammer
To improve thermal insulation, the upper level of the pillow can be made from expanded clay gravel(10 cm). The total thickness of the ballast “pie” should be in the range from 30 to 40 cm.
Film waterproofing laid under the insulation needs to be protected from damage by sharp gravel and pressing through expanded clay. Therefore, the backfill is completed with a 5-centimeter layer of compacted sand. The thickness of the film laid on the ground must be at least 0.4 mm.
When laying film insulation, its strips are spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, fixing them with construction tape. The edges are let onto the masonry to a height equal to the total thickness of the insulation, concrete screed and finishing coating. A thermal gap 2-3 cm wide is left between the structural “pie” of the floor and the walls and partitions. It is filled with scraps of polyethylene foam or special thermal tape.
To insulate the base, you can use EPS (extruded polystyrene foam), sawdust concrete or perlite concrete. Often, waterproofing is not laid under foam plastic, since it practically does not absorb moisture. It is covered with a polymer film on top. It protects the insulation from the destructive effects of the alkaline environment of the cement mortar.
Under lightweight concrete On sawdust and perlite, plastic film is needed. The thickness of the listed heat insulators is not the same. For XPS it is 50 mm. The layer of sawdust and perlite concrete should be at least 10 cm.
Having laid the thermal insulation, a concrete screed is made on its surface using fine-grained filler (fraction 5-10 mm, thickness 10 cm). The work is carried out in two stages. First, pour a layer 5 cm thick and lay a steel mesh on it (mesh 10x10 cm, wire diameter 3-4 mm). After this, the thickness of the screed is adjusted to the design level, determined by calculation of the expected loads. Recommended concrete class B12.5.
That's how they get it the right pie floors on the ground with low soil water levels. Rough concrete preparation for rigid insulation is not done. There is no real benefit from it, but an increase in the cost of 1m2 finished design very noticeable.
Installing a heating system (warm floor) changes the technology and sequence of work. In this case, first a rough concrete preparation is poured over the compacted pad and a layer of waterproofing is laid out. Having laid the insulation (EPS), pipes are fixed to it and a leveling screed is made of concrete. The reinforcing mesh is laid over the pipes or heating cable.
In passing, we note that floors on the ground can be made not only in brick, block, but also in wooden houses. With the right approach, ballast backfill does not have any effect negative impact on wood.
One of the options for properly pairing such a structure with chopped walls is shown in the diagram below.
Interface with a wooden wall
At low ground level concrete slab, lying on clay or on a layer of compacted waterproofed bedding, is done in basements. This is a very common option in cottage construction.
Before installing the screed, the area of the room must be divided into strips 80-100 cm wide using steel U-shaped profile or wooden beacon boards placed on edge. The damper tape is attached to the walls before pouring begins so that it protrudes 1.5-2 cm above the design mark of the finishing surface.
Pouring concrete begins at the far end of the room and moves towards the front door.
Laying is done in strips, filling the cells slightly above their level. For leveling, use a vibrating screed or metal rule, moving it along the beacons.
After allowing the mixture to dry, the beacons are removed from it, filling the resulting seams with fresh concrete. After this, the concrete is covered with film and given 4 weeks to gain strength, periodically moistening it with water.
When planning to lay a floor on the ground, you need to know what its advantages are over other types of foundations:
The disadvantages of this design include:
is a basic type of foundation, one of the most proven and deeply studied types supporting structures.
The history of the construction of the belt goes back many centuries, so the statistics and design features have been worked out as closely and in detail as possible.
The strip foundation is harmoniously combined with units of other types of foundation or with structural elements of the building itself, allowing them to be implemented in various ways.
One of these options is flooring on the ground, a simple solution that does not require time-consuming work and does not load the walls.
The technique is quite widespread and deserves a detailed description.
Floors on the ground are a technology for creating a subfloor resting directly on the underlying layers of soil. This technique is available in the absence ground floor or basement . It is simple and economical, used mainly in auxiliary and outbuildings - garages, storage facilities, bathhouses, etc.
For residential buildings, this technology is used less frequently, as it requires high-quality, and ideally, installation of a “warm floor” system.
It should be borne in mind that the technique of installing floors on the ground is only suitable for traditional types of strip foundation and is not suitable for combined types supporting structures, such as pile-tape, etc.
Exist different types rough floors on the ground:
Different design options require their own methods and composition of the floor pie on the ground. Flood It is impossible to apply directly onto the backfill layer; it is necessary to create appropriate preparatory layers that provide rigidity, resistance to loads and thermal insulation.
Wooden flooring is easier to install, but also requires significant preparatory work.
The advantages of flooring on the ground include:
There are also disadvantages And:
All qualities of ground floors have been sufficiently well researched, which allows us to rely on technology and carry out work in strict accordance with its requirements.
For wood subfloors, creating a complex pie is not necessary. A mandatory layer of sand backfill is sufficient, on top of which geotextiles are laid and insulation is laid or poured. The composition of the cake for a concrete floor on the ground is more complex.
Typically the following layers are created:
It is also recommended to reinforce the last layer to eliminate the possibility of cracks forming during drying. If necessary, water heated floor pipelines can be poured into it to obtain an effective and economical system heating the home.
Before you start constructing a floor on the ground, you need to get enough full information about the composition of soil layers on the site, groundwater and the extent of seasonal fluctuations in their level.
This data will allow you to decide whether it is possible to create floors on the ground with a sufficient degree of safety for the building and its inhabitants. It is recommended to create a high-quality drainage system, capable of ensuring the removal of soil moisture in the event of an increase in its level.
Then you should decide on the thickness of the preparatory layers of backfill. This question has special importance, since they must be compacted thoroughly. The thicker the layer, the more difficult it is to achieve sufficient compaction.
At the same time, it is impossible to achieve the natural compaction density of the backfill layer in practice. The preparatory layer will certainly give some shrinkage, the amount of which will be directly proportional to its thickness.
It is recommended to pour a layer of footing concrete (rough screed) onto a geotextile fabric. This will preserve water in the array and ensure normal crystallization of the material. If you pour directly onto the preparatory layer, moisture from the concrete will be absorbed into it and disrupt the hardening process, which will result in a weakening of the screed.
When pouring all concrete layers, it is necessary to fully comply with the period necessary for the crystallization of the material and the development of technological strength. Otherwise, there is a risk of deformation or destruction of the underlying layers, the occurrence of defects in the geometry of the floor pie and loss of overall strength.
Before starting work, you must make sure that all communications passing under the floor level have been entered. After creating a floor pie on the ground, entering communications will be difficult and will require more complex methods resolving the issue.
There are several methods for creating floors on the ground, involving the use of different techniques and materials. They all have their own advantages and disadvantages, and have sufficient efficiency and load-bearing capacity.
The choice of methodology is made based on a comparison of the features of the technology and the conditions that exist in reality. Besides, important factor are the capabilities and preferences of the home owner.
Let's consider the procedure for creating different technological options:
Creating a concrete screed is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming process, requiring the use of “wet” solutions.
This feature must be taken into account in advance, since the specifics of the materials will require certain conditions:
Work order:
The total thickness of the floor pie along the ground is selected in such a way that the floor level is as convenient as possible for installation doorways and other building elements. It is best to carry out work in warm time years when the conditions for hardening of concrete layers allow you to get the best result.
The technology for creating a dry screed makes it much easier and faster to get a high-quality result. The initial stages of work are the same as in the previous version - creating layers of sand backfill and rough concrete screed.
After this the following steps are performed:
This option is considered the most budget-friendly. The simplest and most reliable design rests on pillars of bricks stacked in a well. The columns are placed in such a way that a support system is formed for installing the logs.
The columns are filled with expanded clay or, alternatively, an air gap is left to ensure dryness of the wood, which requires the creation of ventilation holes.
The joist system is carefully leveled horizontally and forms an even supporting plane. Then a wooden subfloor is laid. A layer of waterproofing film is installed on top, a standard substrate is laid and a finishing coating is laid - linoleum, laminate or other material to the owner’s taste.
The choice of technology is a matter of preference and capabilities of the home owner. Concrete screed allows you to get a durable and strong floor, but its maintainability will be extremely low. Failure of, for example, a heated floor system will create a serious problem with a very complex and costly solution.
Dry screed is much simpler and allows for repairs without special costs and problems, but this option is only suitable for people who are not afraid of repair work.
NOTE!
Wooden floor is traditional solution, but the specifics of wood as a material have too many undesirable aspects, so this option is increasingly being abandoned in favor of other methods.
Creating a floor on the ground is an option suitable for buildings that do not have a basement or basement.
For housing, this method is used less frequently, since most users consider it unreliable and dangerous in relation to ground moisture.
When deciding to use this technique, you need to weigh all the pros and cons, think through the procedure and perform all the preliminary work - entering communications, creating, etc.
This will allow you to obtain a result that is optimal in quality and performance capabilities.
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If we're talking about about the method of installing the floors of the first floor of a private house, and you do not have the necessary knowledge to form your own opinion, we bring to your attention a kind of “educational education” on the installation of floors. So, there are two options: the first is to install the floor on the ground, the second is to install the floor on slabs or beams. If you are planning to build a house where people will live periodically (dacha, hunting lodge), and also if the soil is damp and the house is located in a cold climate zone, it is best constructive solution the floor will be installed on beams; in other cases, it is preferable to install the floor directly on the ground. Floors on the ground are indeed cheaper than floors built on beams (significant savings on construction and thermal insulation materials). Let's take a closer look at the features of constructing floors on the ground.
Depending on the purpose of the room and the climate, either monolithic (concrete) floors or floors with an underground are installed. Design features Monolithic floors are ideal for constructing a terrace, veranda, garage or basement, while subfloors are better suited for residential premises. The construction of a monolithic floor is multi-layered. Let's consider the sequence of layers (from bottom to top).
Each layer has its own functional purpose. A layer of river sand, as well as a layer of expanded clay or crushed stone, serves to prevent moisture from penetrating into the floor from the soil by capillary action. The thickness of the sand bedding must be at least 5 cm. The thickness of the crushed stone layer is 10 cm. For more effective protection To remove moisture, it is recommended to impregnate the crushed stone layer with bitumen. On damp soils, the second layer should only be made of crushed stone; expanded clay is not used in this case due to its ability to absorb water and swell. Each layer is carefully compacted when laying.
Laying rough screed on expanded clay: reinforcement is made with chain-link mesh
The rough concrete screed serves as the basis for waterproofing; it should be 6-8 cm thick; it is applied to a layer of crushed stone, previously covered with plastic film. In this case, polyethylene film is not waterproofing, but is used only for technological purposes. The crushed stone for concrete is small, and the sand must be from the river. Instead of a rough screed, you can use pouring crushed stone with a liquid cement-sand mortar; in this case, polyethylene is not used.
To create a hydro-vapor barrier layer, a double layer of polyethylene film or roofing material is glued onto a rough cement screed, or a layer of bitumen is applied. The hydro-vapor barrier layer must be sealed over the entire surface; it acts as a barrier to the penetration of moisture from the soil into the upper layers of the pie. Damage to the hydro-vapor barrier is unacceptable, as it leads to saturation of the floor with moisture, the appearance of unpleasant odor, fungi, mold and premature failure of the finishing floor covering.
To insulate the floor, a layer of thermal insulation is laid (the thickness of the layer depends on the climate zone). Expanded polystyrene can be used as insulation, mineral wool, foam glass, etc. Most often, extruded polystyrene foam is used as insulation. This durable material, having a low water saturation coefficient. When compared with other types of insulation, extruded polystyrene foam has significantly higher crush strength.
Reinforcement of finishing screed
The thermal insulation layer is covered with a finishing cement screed, which is necessarily reinforced with welded metal mesh. For residential premises, the reinforcing mesh is made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a cell size of 10 × 10 cm. For floors where increased loads are expected, for example in a garage, the wire for the mesh should be 4mm in diameter and the cells 5x5cm, the screed is made of concrete with a crushed stone fraction of 10-20mm. The thickness of the finishing screed in residential premises must be at least 5 cm, in the garage - 10 cm.
If it is planned to install a heated floor (electric or water), then a layer of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene (1-2 cm) is laid between the walls and the screed. This is done in order to create a thermal gap between the floor and the walls (if this is not done, then when heated, the floor expands and cracks may form in the screed). Since the finishing screed is the basis of the floor covering, it must be smooth and applied in advance. installed beacons.
The finishing floor covering is laid over the prepared finishing screed. Since the screed is reliably protected from moisture, the covering can be absolutely any: parquet, parquet board, laminate, floor board, linoleum, tiles, etc.
The construction of such a cake is reliable, the floor is well protected from moisture and freezing, but at the same time it is expensive. With softer climatic conditions and on dry soils a simplified ground floor design can be used.
The thickness and feasibility of each layer depends on:
If the groundwater level is below 2 m, then the bedding can not be used, but instead of a rough screed, pouring crushed stone with a solution can be used. For expected significant loads (more than 200 kg per m 2), the reinforcing mesh wire should be 4 mm, in other cases - 3 mm.
It should be remembered that reducing the cost of the cake should not lead to a deterioration in its reliability, especially if you plan to use an expensive finishing wood flooring such as parquet or laminate.
The concrete floor on the ground has undeniable advantages: It is durable, strong and relatively easy to make. Thermal insulation is required, because it is through the floor that 20% of the heat of the room is lost, and concrete does not protect the floor from the cold coming from below. Insulation is also mandatory for non-residential premises(garages, hangars, sheds).
The height of the floor level relative to the foundation level depends on how the base was insulated. If you only insulate the walls and place the floor below the top of the base, then this is where the wall will freeze. If the base is properly insulated, then the floor level can be both lower and higher than the top of the foundation.
An underground floor will reduce heat loss, the leakage of which will be prevented by an air cushion
The installation of a floor with an underground provides for the presence air gap between the floor and the ground surface (to prevent direct contact of the ground with the floor). This design is advisable in areas with high soil moisture (if the groundwater depth is less than 2 meters), as well as when the house is located in a cold climate zone, or when installing a floor in a house where heating will be periodic (dachas, hunting lodges).
When installing such floors, the ground level should be 10-15 cm below the floor level, which is very important. Increasing the size of the air space between the foundation and the floor leads to heat loss, and if the size is reduced (if the height of the underground is less than the indicated values), ventilation will significantly deteriorate.
The soil is prepared as follows:
The design of the ground floor may vary depending on the characteristics of the soil. Between bulk soil and crushed stone substrate, when the soil high humidity, additional waterproofing is required, consisting of two layers of roofing felt, plastic film or a layer of clay.
The first step is to install the brick pillars. The laying of brick columns under the logs is carried out taking into account the required distance - 0.7-1 m between them. For the construction of supports, burnt red bricks are used (you cannot use sand-lime brick or fake diamond). The posts are installed around the perimeter and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing; they should be attached over the insulation wooden blocks 3cm thick, treated with antiseptic.
Installation of concrete columns under logs: the surface in contact with wood is treated with bitumen mastic
The next stage is laying the lags. The logs are made from log halves; it is also advisable to treat them with an antiseptic. The joints of the joists should be above the posts. Correct location extreme lags - at a distance of 2-3 cm from the walls. The horizontality of the joists is checked with a level; for linings, bars of various thicknesses treated with an antiseptic are used. When laying joists, horizontal unevenness of up to 3mm is allowed.
The floor on the joists may differ structurally from the written version: it is possible to use metal pipes instead of columns made of baked brick, or the subfloor may have a frame made of boards placed on edge and treated with an antiseptic.
Placed on joists batten which is secured with nails. The boards must be pressed tightly against each other. If necessary, you can make a double wooden floor, first lay a rough layer of unedged boards, then a layer of waterproofing and a finishing layer of floorboard.
For the underground it is necessary good ventilation, for which purpose ventilation windows of 10x10 cm are made in opposite corners of the floor, which are covered with bars, and in the basement there are special vents, at least two for each room in the house.
Under certain construction conditions, ground floors can be a more economical and more durable option than other types of flooring. What are these conditions? Obviously, dense layers of soil without organic matter, which would serve as the base of the floors, must be at an acceptable depth so that the backfill does not turn out to be too thick. The height of the bulk soil layer (sand, crushed stone, as well as sandy loam and loam with low groundwater) should not exceed 0.6 meters, since a large embankment will shrink too much during operation. If suitable geological conditions exist, all that remains is to design the floors in such a way that it reliably protects the living space of the house from dampness and cold. First, let's look at the most economical option for flooring on the ground for a private home.
It is recommended to combine any flooring on the ground with external insulation of the wall, base and foundation below the floor level at least 1 meter. This eliminates freezing of the foundation as well as a significant bridge of cold from the building through the floors, soil and then to the base-foundation and outside air.
The standards require a slightly different insulation option - laying insulation under the base of the floors along the walls in a strip 0.8 meters wide, and the heat transfer resistance of this insulation should be no lower than that of the walls. Those. a cold bridge is removed through the floors along the ground to the foundation.
Thus, vertical thermal insulation of the foundation and basement along the perimeter of the house makes the soil layer under the floor thermally insulated from the street. The upper layers of soil under the floor will be heated by heat from the house, while heat loss through the floor should not exceed regulatory requirements. Of course, such floors cannot be called warm. However, the design has the right to exist without a special layer of insulation under the entire surface of the floors.
The figure shows typical design pairing simple floors on the ground and walls with the foundation.
Here 2 is continuous waterproofing.
3 – foundation and plinth.
4-5 – plaster layer.
6 – blind area.
9 – floor on the ground.
Heat absorption of floors should not exceed standard requirements - no more than 12 W/m2*deg for residential premises. In other words, the rate of heat absorption by the floor, for example from a person’s foot, should not be too high so that the floor does not seem “icy.” Therefore, materials with low thermal conductivity should be used for the flooring and screed in this design. Recommended to use wooden parquet, carpet, thick linoleum.
The screed is carried out in an economical way - a dry screed on a leveling layer of sand. A double gypsum fiber sheet is used. It is advisable for such floors to use expanded clay sand, which has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient, which will only reduce the heat absorption of the floor.
In general, the creation of economical floors on the ground is carried out as follows.
The diagram shows:
1,2,3 – floor covering.
4.5 – dry screed.
6 – leveling sand bedding.
7, 8,9,10 – pipeline in a metal casing secured with dowels.
11 – membrane waterproofing.
12 – concrete base
13 – compacted soil
The result is a fairly simple but reliable floor that can be made in a private home with your own hands.
A distinctive advantage of floors on the ground is that they do not require maintenance or monitoring of their condition during operation, such as floors with a ventilated subfloor.
These floors are distinguished by the fact that they are made durable mesh reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 5 cm. It can be made in two versions:
Additionally, you can read - review article -
The figure shows the layers and construction of floors on the ground with concrete screed.
1 – soil.
2 – bulk layers of soil.
3 – layer of sand and crushed stone.
4 – concrete leveling layer.
5 – unbroken waterproofing.
6 – EPS insulation.
7 – cement-sand reinforced screed.
Important to follow following rules when constructing floors on the ground.
The general procedure for carrying out the work is as follows: first, a thermally insulated foundation is erected, its foundation pit is backfilled, then soil and crushed stone are backfilled and compacted. The concrete base is being laid. Next, waterproofing is laid - on top of the foundation (horizontal foundation waterproofing) and on top of the concrete preparation of the floors, forming a continuous coating.
Typically, ground floors are made together with foundations shallow. To the point -
