It takes approximately 9-10 months to prepare compost in the usual way. In a rotating closed plastic barrel-drum, the cooking time is reduced to 15-20 days.
Loading - from the cylindrical side. The lid clings to the hinges and is secured with two screws. On the sides there are openings for air intake, blocked by fine mesh. The barrel is placed on the frame. There are toothed rollers at the corners of the frame, these are connected to the toothed rim of the barrel, and it can be turned by hand to mix the compost. The smaller container is structurally designed somewhat differently and rotates on an axis running through the center. To obtain compost, ordinary plant and household waste is used.
We use:
Used barrel (with lid)
A galvanized pipe on which the composter will rotate (a bar of smooth fittings will also work)
Bolts with washers and nuts
4 latches
Door hinges
1. Drill two holes in the barrel in the center of the ends for the pipe - the axis. The axle will rest on a wooden frame
2. Cut out a door in the barrel and attach it to the hinges. We fasten the latches. An improvised handle was made from a cord that came to hand. 
3. We punch or drill many holes in the barrel for ventilation. In several places we drive long nails into the barrel - dividers for better mixing of the contents (instead of nails, you can use a sander, tightening it with bolts).
3. We make a frame for the composter from boards. We install the barrel on the frame. 
4. Putting the finished composter into operation
For quick composting, simply load the waste into the composter and spin it every few days.
Variations on a theme
Vertical position of the barrel:
Two-level composter (for it, the wooden frame posts were concreted into the ground): 
To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible liner is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.
The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard to reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:
The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or of stainless steel. Devices with different permissible temperatures differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - with hot ones.
When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.
When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. Distinguish the following types accessories for connecting gas appliances:
Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from famous foreign and domestic producers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.
Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.
If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.
There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:
You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?
Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the ground water layers are located:
Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:
Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.
Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?
Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?
Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?
A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.
Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, industrial building, and also in private households it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or incorrect installation of the entire involved sewer part and a system testing report internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the object.
A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, in Lately the new updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85 is applicable.
Compost heap for the lazy
11/20/2009 Labels: humus, compost, compost bin, manure, do it yourself
On summer cottages a compost heap is a must. After all, compost is unique organic fertilizer, which enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, which has now risen in price, as well as mineral fertilizers and I bring it specially fertile soil. In addition, by collecting organic waste throughout the site, we simply clean up the area around us.
Of course, a compost heap or boxes for composting waste should be placed in secluded places so that they are not conspicuous and do not spoil the view. But nevertheless, they should always be at hand. When classical solution composting requires three sections for the production of compost: in one, the process of laying waste is underway, in the other, the compost is ripening, in the third, the finished fertilizer is ready for removal to the beds. In terms of size, many agree on the following proportions: width -1.5 m, height - 1-1.2 m, length - up to 3-4 m. These dimensions are given in many reference books; they are considered the minimum necessary to ensure temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same theory, it is recommended to shovel the contents of the compost heap annually to supply air to the ripening compost, i.e. to speed up the waste decomposition process. This task requires serious physical effort.
How to speed up the composting process?
But progress does not stand still, composting technologies are being improved and the compost production process has been accelerated by 2-3 times. For example, to maintain moisture and increase the temperature in the compost heap, they began to cover it with plastic film with holes for air access. Also, to speed up composting, various accelerator preparations for this process have been developed, for example, the drug “Tamir”. To speed up the process, you can select a certain composition of organic and other components of the compost heap so that composting will significantly speed up. This suggests that today it is not necessary to follow the rigid recommendations developed in the last century.
Composting in an iron barrel
1 – holes in the barrel wall;
2 – green mass;
3 – manure;
4 – ash;
5 – earth;
6 – polyethylene.
So a modern compost heap can be made compact or waste can be placed in a small container with a capacity of about 1 cubic meter for this purpose. meters, making it from boards.
But, as you know, laziness is the engine of progress, so it may not cost anything to build. Let's just take the old one metal barrel without a bottom and let's modify it a little:
Firstly, to ensure air access in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we make 20-30 holes with a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm, or you can punch them with a punch. We place the holes at a height of 20-30 cm from the base of the barrel. And no insulating gaskets are needed between the barrel and the ground - microorganisms and moisture should move freely in both directions.
Secondly, we paint the outside of the barrel dark color for better heating in the sun, which will provide high temperature inside and will speed up the composting process.
The process of preparing compost in a barrel is very convenient and simple. You can place several of these barrels around the site, placing them in places where waste accumulates most quickly. It could be summer cuisine, beds, etc.
Layers for laying compost
To speed up the production of compost, the fertilizer components should be placed in a certain order, forming layers of a certain thickness:
First, we place green plants or carbon-rich substances, making a layer of them 15-20 cm thick.
Then add 5 cm of manure or nitrogen-rich substances.
Afterwards we tear everything up with a centimeter layer of soil.
So we fill the barrel to the top, continuing to lay the layers in the same sequence - weeds, manure, ash, earth.
We cover the filled barrel with a piece of plastic film with holes, which we tie with twine so that it does not blow away in the wind. From time to time we water the compost being prepared with water so that it does not dry out. You can water at the same time as watering the beds. But over-moisturize too much compost mass not worth it. In terms of humidity, it should correspond to a wrung out sponge.
If there are ants in the barrel, it means the compost heap has dried out and the composting process has been interrupted. To automatically maintain the required humidity in the barrel, plant a zucchini, pumpkin or cucumber there. In this case, the film is no longer needed. Watering these plants will ensure the proper moisture in the compost pile. The only difficulty with the latter method is to immediately fill the barrel with all layers of compost to the top.
In this design of a compost heap in the form of a barrel, the compost preparation process is significantly accelerated. And you don’t have to wait 3 years, as in classic version. There is no need to shovel the compost. In one summer you can get several hundred kg of excellent fertilizer.
Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers on your garden plot? Then this article is for you. Look around. Right under your feet is what correct use will become humus, which can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.
Interesting fact:
Already in the 10th century, the secrets of making compost
were known Slavic tribes,
for example, the Polabian Slavs.
Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer, which without unnecessary material costs and can be obtained by any gardener, gardener and summer resident without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to know how to cook it correctly.
Rule 1
Where and what is the best way to prepare compost?
There are two options:
Compost pit/pile
Compost bin or barrel
Advantages compost pit/heaps
No need to search additional materials and there is no need to build anything. Just dig a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 m x 1.5 m in size and put organic remains (kitchen waste, weeded weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (over time you will get a heap).
If desired, when the hole is filled level with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has long surpassed this mark. But I didn’t add anything anymore.
If the compost pit/heap is supported by walls, then inside the pit will be created comfortable conditions for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen
Disadvantages of a compost pit/heap
There is a compost pit on my property that has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky and looks untidy (fortunately it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly, it’s impossible for me to shovel it.
In a compost pit you will not be able to get quality compost. It will take at least 3 years. But in it it is visible and invisible. The worms are free there; they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that my husband digs for worms when he goes fishing. And the quality of catching crucian carp with such a worm is excellent.
(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)
Compost bin or barrel
I also placed a box and two compost bins in the garden. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are stored in one container, the compost matures under a lid in another container, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.
I adapted a leaky metal barrel and a cracked plastic one for compost. I also punched holes in the plastic bottom.
The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that, with my short stature, it would be convenient for me to put plant debris in them and pour out slops.
My compost bin is constructed from boards. But you can make it from cement bonded particle boards 20 mm thick or metal mesh.
Advantages of barrels or boxes
Can be placed anywhere in the garden/vegetable garden.
Thanks to its compactness, it will not take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit/pile.
Thanks to the holes and cracks, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air enters the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
Ready compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and is not washed away.
A barrel or box with mature compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or zucchini. It turns out to be a peculiar high bed.
Rule 2
What can you put in compost?
1. All plant residues and weeds from the beds and garden, except:
* weeds with ripened seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides
I put plant residues unsuitable for compost in a special pile, hidden in the backyard behind the fence. Or I take you out of the area.
2. Mown grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if available, peat.
By the way, about fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, linden leaves, containing a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.
3. Household (kitchen) waste, slops.
If slops from the kitchen are regularly poured into a barrel of compost, then you don’t have to specifically water the barrel. And this requires up to 3-4 buckets of water per day.
4. Ash and, if available, bird droppings.
The alternation of layers occurs naturally, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeded weeds, and mown grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust contains carbon, and ash contains potassium and microelements.
Manure (slurry) I don't put it in compost. Firstly, we don’t have this “good”. Secondly, with manure there is a risk of introducing diseases and pests into the compost. Here you need to ensure that the compost rots for 2, or maybe 3, years, depending on the conditions.
It is not necessary to add soil to the compost heap. This can lower the rotting temperature and thereby slow down the composting process of the organics.
I wish you rich harvests,
Katerina Shlykova
Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page of the site.
Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers in your garden? Then this article is for you. Look around. Right under your feet is what, if used correctly, will become humus that can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.
Interesting fact:
Already in the 10th century, the secrets of making compost
were known to the Slavic tribes,
for example, the Polabian Slavs.
Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer, which any gardener, gardener and summer resident can obtain without unnecessary material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to know how to cook it correctly.
Rule 1
Where and what is the best way to prepare compost?
There are two options:
Compost pit/pile
Compost bin or barrel
Advantages of a compost pit/heap
There is no need to look for additional materials and no need to build anything. Just dig a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 m x 1.5 m in size and put organic remains (kitchen waste, weeded weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (over time you will get a heap).
If desired, when the hole is filled level with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has long surpassed this mark. But I didn’t add anything anymore.
If the compost pit/heap is supported by walls, then comfortable conditions will be created inside the pit for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen
Disadvantages of a compost pit/heap
There is a compost pit on my property that has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky and looks untidy (fortunately it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly, it’s impossible for me to shovel it.
It will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost in a compost pit in 1 year. It will take at least 3 years. But in it it is visible and invisible. The worms are free there; they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that my husband digs for worms when he goes fishing. And the quality of catching crucian carp with such a worm is excellent.
(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)
Compost bin or barrel
I also placed a box and two compost bins in the garden. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are stored in one container, the compost matures under a lid in another container, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.
I adapted a leaky metal barrel and a cracked plastic one for compost. I also punched holes in the plastic bottom.
The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that, with my short stature, it would be convenient for me to put plant debris in them and pour out slops.
My compost bin is constructed from boards. But you can make it from 20 mm thick cement particle boards or metal mesh.
Advantages of barrels or boxes
Can be placed anywhere in the garden/vegetable garden.
Thanks to its compactness, it will not take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit/pile.
Thanks to the holes and cracks, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air enters the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
Ready compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and is not washed away.
A barrel or box with mature compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or zucchini. It turns out to be a kind of high bed.
Rule 2
What can you put in compost?
1. All plant residues and weeds from the beds and garden, except:
* weeds with ripened seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides
I put plant residues unsuitable for compost in a special pile, hidden in the backyard behind the fence. Or I take you out of the area.
2. Mown grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if available, peat.
By the way, about fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, linden leaves, containing a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.
3. Household (kitchen) waste, slops.
If slops from the kitchen are regularly poured into a barrel of compost, then you don’t have to specifically water the barrel. And this requires up to 3-4 buckets of water per day.
4. Ash and, if available, bird droppings.
The alternation of layers occurs naturally, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeded weeds, and mown grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust contains carbon, and ash contains potassium and microelements.
Manure (slurry) I don't put it in compost. Firstly, we don’t have this “good”. Secondly, with manure there is a risk of introducing diseases and pests into the compost. Here you need to ensure that the compost rots for 2, or maybe 3, years, depending on the conditions.
It is not necessary to add soil to the compost heap. This can lower the rotting temperature and thereby slow down the composting process of the organics.
I wish you rich harvests,
Katerina Shlykova
Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page of the site.
