The arrangement of the sewer system requires the most scrupulous attitude to all stages of the process, including depth, slope, and reliability of connections. Each of these factors has a great influence on the quality of the entire system. Negligence is unacceptable here, if there is no self-confidence, it is better to turn to professionals.
Modern sewer systems significantly improve the standard of living in a private house. If in previous years a toilet on the street was perceived as an unpleasant necessity, inseparable from a private house, today it is a sign of laziness of the owners or their extremely low income. Moreover, in the first case, you can get out of the situation by hiring professionals who will perform absolutely all the work.
Useful information:
The depth of the pipeline depends on the depth of the septic tank.
Advice! The pipe laid between the building and the septic tank must be straight. Knees, turns will provoke the appearance of blockages.
Before arranging the sewer system, you should find out what is the average freezing depth in your area. Pipes need to be laid a little lower than these figures. Usually, the depth at which sewer pipes are located in a private house in the south is more than 50 cm. In the central part of the country, where the climate is harsher, the depth of sewerage in a private house is at least 70 cm. These figures are especially significant if sewer pipes are located under the platforms or under the paths, which are freed from snow in winter.
Laying sewer pipes must be carried out in accordance with the following rules:
The depth of the pipeline can be determined based on the following points:
Such convenient fixture allows you to control the work of the sewerage, in time to eliminate emerging problems. It is not very difficult to make it, but it brings a lot of comfort to the operation process.
Accounting for the depth of soil freezing is a fundamental requirement. In order not to spend money on arranging deeper trenches than necessary, you need to have a clear idea of the depth of soil freezing in a given area. Below is a table to help guide you in this matter.
In cold regions, it is recommended to supplement the sewer pipeline with thermal insulation. This technique allows you to extend the service life, eliminate the possibility of freezing at very low temperatures. Most often, polyurethane foam is taken for this purpose. If the pipe is wrapped with polyurethane foam, and a polyethylene sheath is made on top, the pipe will not be afraid of frost.
If pipes are laid below the possible freezing point, then the pipes will never freeze. In this case, additional protection is made in case of extreme cold. When performing thermal insulation, special attention is paid to joints and turning points. It is these zones that tolerate the effects of cold quite poorly. So warming the turning points is a must.
In Europe, a more technologically advanced method is used. An electric cable is launched near the pipeline; if necessary, it acts as a heater for the pipe. For many residents of our country, this method is too expensive, because paying for energy is not the smallest item of expenditure. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the depth of pipe laying. In the central regions, it is better to choose a depth of 1m. And in the northern regions, it is desirable to dig deeper trenches and carry out high-quality thermal insulation. To do this, you can either fiberglass. If the pipes are located above the ground, they are also insulated with similar materials. Since they can fill with water, .
For uninterrupted operation of the sewer, the requirements for the diameter of the pipes must be observed:
The main requirement is to ensure proper bias. The only correct drain is gravity. Too much low speed will lead to blockages. Too fast movement of effluents - to accelerate the destruction of pipes.
The sewerage laying scheme in a private house includes a characteristic of the features of the pipe exit from the room. The rules for removing a pipe from a house depend on the type of foundation. At strip foundation the output is arranged on the side. With slab - the pipe is laid from top to bottom, for this a pipe section and a 45 ° elbow are used. To equip the sewer, a pipe-sleeve is laid in the foundation in advance, through which the main pipeline is then removed. Such a base is needed to protect the pipeline from excessive pressure and potential destruction.
From the exit point to the septic tank / cesspool, the pipe is laid evenly, without bends. In the septic tank, the drain pipe is inserted at the top. This is done to provide a place for the accumulation of waste.
In order not to be mistaken in the depth of laying the pipe, you need to find out how things are with the neighbors who have already equipped their own drain. If they have problems with pipe freezing, you need to dig your pipe deeper. No matter how deep the pipe lies, in any case, a slope is needed. Usually they make 2 - 3 cm per linear meter.
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When arranging a sewer with your own hands, you need to know how to lay sewer pipes, since they are an indispensable element of any system. There is nothing complicated about this, and it will be enough to know about the main aspects of this process. How to lay sewer pipes in a private house will be discussed in this article.
Today, the market is replete with materials for the manufacture of sewer systems: various pipes, fittings and other elements that ensure reliable operation and tight connection of the structure.
Laying sewer pipes in a private house must be done correctly. A trench is dug for pipes, the bottom of which is laid with gravel and sand, although sometimes the pipeline is laid directly on the ground. Pipes are usually connected in several pieces at the top of the trench, after which they are laid down. It is important to understand how to connect sewer pipes correctly. Of course, with plastic pipes such an operation is much easier, but with metal pipes you will have to sweat: this design will not be installed with your own hands, so additional equipment will be required.
When laying pipes on the bottom, you need to ensure that they do not sag in certain areas, otherwise problems cannot be avoided. Also, during operation, it is worth constantly monitoring the level of the pipes: failure to comply with the slope will certainly provoke system problems in the very near future.
An important aspect in the arrangement of sewage is the sealing of pipes (which is especially difficult to do when doing the work yourself). It is important to know how to seal the sewer pipe best. When sealing pipes, you should be careful, because the performance of the system depends on the quality of work: constant leaks due to poor connections can destroy the sewer and make it impossible to use it further.
There are several ways to seal the joints of sewer pipes. One of them - chasing - is performed as follows: the socket is filled with a tarred tourniquet for two-thirds of the space, and the remaining space is completely filled cement mortar in a ratio of 9:1 (cement and water, respectively). This method is quite difficult to implement, but it is very reliable. If desired, you can use waterproof cement, and then the tourniquet is not required.
Before connecting the pipes, they must be carefully cleaned - this is a mandatory preparatory operation, due to which the laying of sewer pipes in a private house is of high quality and reliable. In addition, immediately before connecting pipes or structural elements, it is necessary to lubricate them with glycerin or soap. All joints during preparation must be marked so that the pipes fall exactly into place during the final laying.
In the old days, independent arrangement of the sewer system was considered a very difficult matter. The reason is very simple: the laying of sewer pipes in a private house was carried out using heavy and uncomfortable cast iron pipes, the weight of which completely made it impossible to build anything on their own.
Before purchasing materials for the sewer system, it is necessary to prepare a project, according to which all work will be carried out. The project should display all sewer lines, plumbing fixtures and the premises where they will be installed. It is also important to remember that different devices require different pipes and additional accessories.
The laying of sewer pipes in a private house is carried out with an eye to the pre-calculated slope value displayed in the project. The slope may vary depending on the situation, but the optimal value is considered to be 2 cm per meter of pipeline.
The diameter of the pipes for different sections is also important, and before laying the sewer pipes, you need to select the appropriate sections. For example, 110 mm pipes are used to connect the toilet, and for plumbing that only drains water, 50 mm outlet pipes are sufficient. Thinner pipes with a diameter of 32 or 40 mm are often used, which are suitable for bidets and washing machines.
The main fittings most commonly used are:
An elbow is a fitting that allows you to change the direction of the sewer pipeline. The knee angle can be different: the most common are products with an angle of 90, 45 and 35 degrees.
Transitions are needed to connect pipes of different diameters to each other. A good example of such a situation is a system in which the main line has a diameter of 110 mm and the internal sewerage is made of 50 mm pipes.
In order to tightly block one of the sewer passages, plugs are used. Very often, these elements are used during the construction process: for example, if the sink has not yet been installed, and the sewage system is already working, then the free hole must be closed with a plug.
The revision is a tee with two sockets and a cover that comes off to clean the structure or troubleshoot problems. Clamps are fasteners and allow you to fix the structure in place.
The raw materials for the manufacture of polymer pipes can be:
In addition, the inner surface of plastic pipes is smooth, so they are practically not subject to clogging, which speaks in favor of such products. Another weighty argument in favor of plastic pipes is their long service life, which makes it possible to create a reliable system that can work flawlessly for several decades.
Despite all the advantages of plastic pipes, the sewer system can still cause trouble. Problems most often arise precisely because of improper installation, and the result is rather deplorable. To prevent this from happening, the laying of sewer pipes in a private house must be carried out carefully, efficiently and in strict accordance with the project.
For example, often blockages in the system occur due to too much sharp corners turns or bends. It becomes much more difficult for drains to move in such places, so they require additional effort, after which deposits remain on the inner surface of the pipeline. In addition, sometimes residents dump various garbage into the sewer, which is strictly forbidden: in the vast majority of cases, solid objects get stuck at the first turn and provoke clogging.
Conclusion
Before you properly lay sewer pipes, you need to understand building codes, rules and standards. If everything was done correctly, then there will be no problems with the sewer system, and it will be able to perform its functions with maximum efficiency.
The water supply of a residential facility is unthinkable without the installation of a wastewater drainage system. Therefore, even before construction, it is necessary to decide where and how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, how to arrange an external pipeline.
We will tell you how to lay sewer pipes within the building and around the site. We will show you how the system is assembled and its components are fastened. In our article, we present assembly rules and building codes, the technology for performing internal wiring is described.
Construction is out of the question without a preliminary drawing up of a wastewater disposal. A carefully thought out, drawn up scheme will make it possible to rationally use capital investments.
Moreover, thanks to preliminary drafting building sewerage schemes open up more opportunities to achieve the required system efficiency.
An example of a wiring diagram: mk - sink; ks - riser; un - toilet bowl (bidet); the mind is the sink of the laver; vn - bath, 50 and 110 - diameters of pipelines of horizontal lines and lines of risers; 1 - siphon with cleaning; 2 – bathtub siphon with overflow; 3 - square; 4 - tee; 5 - cross; 6 - adapter
The main criteria for drawing up a scheme, as a rule, are considered the following:
Having decided on the main points of construction, they calculate the number of system components, including the footage of sewer pipes, and draw up a sketch of the project.
An example of sketching a home sewer for two adjacent nodes: 1 - sink; 2 - toilet bowl; 3 - washbasin; 4 - bath; 5 - plumbing pipeline. The sketch also marks the distances between the components (a, b, c, d)
Given the availability on the market of lightweight and a complete set of installation fittings, building a sewerage system in a private house is quite affordable on your own. However, it is not easy to build high-quality sewage without consulting specialists and referring to established standards.
Scheme of the sewer network with an output to the septic tank: 1 - riser; general disposal of waste products; 3 - compensating air outlet; 4 - septic tank; 5 - treated wastewater; 6 - additional final filtration
The classic sewer scheme in general terms contains:
According to the existing standards for the layout of a one-story structure, the areas adjacent to the external point of outlet of wastewater are plumbing fixtures in the kitchen and sanitary unit.
The wall separating these two rooms of the house is considered the installation site of the riser pipeline. The area of the lower point of the riser pipe is diverted to the external main, and the upper one is displayed on the roof.
Part of the general wiring in a private house - an example of the practical implementation of building an internal horizontal network based on popular polypropylene pipes and other components
The most remote plumbing fixture of the utility zone is connected to the riser by a pipeline with a smaller diameter and taking into account the slope towards the riser by 1.5-2º. Formation rules are given in our recommended article.
The laid highway is used to connect other plumbing fixtures of the economic and technical zone. The toilet bowl is traditionally placed closest to the riser.
Thus, a gravity flow scheme of a one-story private building is created. However, not in every case of a plumbing network device it is possible to organize a gravity flow scheme. Then the problem is solved by introducing additional equipment into the circuit - a pump.
The structure of a private house on two or three floors is characterized by the arrangement of several economic and technical zones. Moreover, the arrangement of such zones is provided for at each of existing floors. Accordingly, in such conditions it seems to be a somewhat complicated schematic version compared to the first one - a one-story house.
Classic wiring for buildings with two or more floors: 1- centralized collector; 2 - viewing well; 3 - riser; 4, 5 - revisions; 6 - check valve; 7 - forced movement of drains at the basement level
The norms and rules for the construction of multi-storey buildings regulate the construction of premises of the same type in terms of functionality at a single vertical level. Therefore, the sewerage scheme in this case, for example, concerning toilet rooms, provides for wiring for rooms located one above the other.
A riser pipe designed for multi-storey buildings is passed through all floors and brought to the roof level, taking into account an additional rise of 0.3 m or more if the roof is unused.
For the option with an operated roof, this parameter is at a minimum of 1.5 m. For pitched roofs (a popular design of private houses), the riser is taken to a height of 0.5 m from the level of the roof ridge.
Also, the arrangement of multi-storey buildings provides for the use of compensating elements at the points of passage of the pipeline through the ceilings.
Accordingly, transitions through the ceilings are made waterproof and sound-absorbing, equipped with special fire cuffs.
A practical example of fixing polypropylene pipelines, including sewer risers, using special clamps. As you can see, the mount necessarily involves the use of rubber pads.
The riser pipe is fixed directly to the wall using metal clamps with rubber linings. Guidelines for choosing sewer pipes for internal wiring, we advise you to read useful information.
Fastening is carried out without a tight tightening - overhead, to ensure the natural free movement of the pipe vertically. The lower part of the riser through the outlet is displayed to the external sewer line.
Traditionally, drain lines from plumbing fixtures such as sinks, bathtubs, laundry sinks are made on the basis of pipelines with a diameter of 50 mm. The outlet channels of toilet bowls require a larger pipe diameter - 110 mm.
On the present stage polypropylene pipes are traditionally used for the construction of internal sewer lines. However, depending on the specific project and the load (throughput) capacity of the sewer network, different diameters of linear pipelines and risers can be used.
The table below shows the possible options.
In any case, the diameter of the riser pipe of the sewerage scheme of a private house is always taken equal to or greater than the largest floor outlet in diameter
Gravity pipelines of horizontal lines with a diameter of 40-50 mm are mounted, observing the norm of a uniform slope equal to 0.03 m per 1 m of length.
Gravity pipelines with a diameter of 85 and 110 mm are laid, observing the norm of a uniform slope equal to 0.02 mm per 1 m of length. The maximum allowable slope angle is not more than 0.15 mm for the entire length of a separately mounted sewer section.
The use of plumbing crosses and tees is a convenient method of piping. In addition, thanks to these circuit elements, patency is created with a lower drag coefficient.
Direct connections of the outlet lines and the riser are made by means of tees, crosses at angles of 45º or 60º. The execution of the scheme in this way allows you to avoid clogging of pipelines during operation.
The scheme and the apartment necessarily provide for the introduction of revisions (cleanings) at the points of the line where the risk of blockages is high.
For a circuit in a private house, the table below shows the location of such circuit elements:
Let's briefly consider the main stages in the construction of a sewer pipeline in a private house. Even if you do not decide to do the work on your own, you can control the hired specialists.
The creation of a sewer system begins with the construction of an external (yard) network. If the length of the courtyard network to the existing one is more than 12 meters, an additional viewing well is arranged. At the same time, the minimum allowable distance from the wall of the house to the manhole is 3-5 m.
He will acquaint you with the methods of constructing the outer part of the pipeline and the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground, which we highly recommend reading.
In the laying of external sewer lines, they are now mainly used, attracting light weight, excellent operational characteristics and affordable price. When laying a route above the level of seasonal freezing, they are used to protect the lines from the formation of ice plugs.
Often, owners of private buildings have to deal with the lack of a centralized sewerage network. In this case, arrange autonomous system collecting and filtering wastewater (). However, the principle of connecting "external internal network" remains the same.
One of the simple and convenient solutions for private households is a sealed septic tank. True, its significant drawback lies in a rather big price, so not every homeowner decides to pay for its purchase.
Next, you need to build an input node directly in the structure of a private house (foundation, basement wall). The construction of the node is carried out taking into account possible deformations, for example, due to subsidence of the structure.
The input node and the external pipeline are reliably isolated.
Scheme of the input device (one of the possible): 1 - crumpled clay; 2 - mortar based on cement; 3 - resinous strand; 4 - a sleeve based on a steel pipe
The next step is the installation of riser pipes internal network. These circuit components are recommended to be assembled in assembled pre-set without fastening or with partial fastening.
Full fixing is done after final assembly the entire system. After completing the installation of riser pipes, they build horizontal sewer outlet lines, taking into account the required slopes.
The process of building horizontal internal branch lines involves laying sockets and fittings in the direction against the flow of wastewater
At the final stage, each device is connected to the corresponding outlet through a siphon pipe.
Additionally, it is worth noting: provided that the height of the building is less than 10 meters, the internal sewer system can be built on the basis of non-pressure pipes. At higher heights, pressure pipes are used.
Below is a video practice of wiring and laying a network of pipelines, taking into account the construction of a private house. Full installation cycle, including testing the system in the simplest ways.
Knowing the procedure for arranging a system for draining wastewater from a house, you can try to build a sewer yourself. True, at the stage of laying the pipeline from the outside, help will be required to bury the pipes in the ground.
If in doubt, it is better to contact a company with a good reputation and positive recommendations from your friends. Then the sewer system will be arranged correctly and will serve your family for decades.
Please leave comments in the block below. Share useful information, photos and own experience gained in the field of installation or repair of a sewer pipeline. Ask questions on controversial, interesting and unclear points.
Often the owners of suburban areas for equipment outdoor toilet use the old-fashioned standard cesspool. In principle, with the occasional use of the closet, this option is acceptable. But if a large amount of waste flows into the pit as a result of regular use of the toilet on the street, then in this case a bare pit with soil walls is not suitable. According to the norms of SNiP, such effluents entering the ground strongly pollute the environment through groundwater. Therefore, for cesspools and septic tanks, the principle of a sealed device began to be applied. And the remnants of the past recede into the background.
A septic tank for a country toilet on the street is a reliable cleaning system Wastewater. Thanks to the chambers of the device, water mixed with feces and household waste, which got here, settles and is processed by bacteria, which makes it 98% purified. You can even use this liquid for watering the garden.
When arranging such a treatment plant, it is important to ensure that the toilet is located near the septic tank.
Such a mini-chamber for wastewater treatment works according to the following principle:
Important: if the level ground water on the site is less than 1.5 meters, then in any case you will have to make all three chambers of the mini-septic tank airtight. Since in this case there is a risk of flooding the site large quantity discharged water.
A septic tank with bacteria for a country toilet, although it is a mini option, still requires certain rules to be observed during its installation. So, the main ones are:
Important: the thickness of the expanded clay sprinkling for quality insulation the septic tank should be 20-30 cm, but the foam plates can be thinner. It will be enough to use material 5-10 cm thick.
If you hesitate in choosing a material for a septic tank for cesspool tanks, then we suggest that you learn more about the most popular of them.
The first step is to dig a pit for the installation of a septic tank for the toilet. In this case, you can do it on your own, but it's too long. If you decide to use the services of excavators, then know that their work will cost a little more than if an excavator worked. Therefore, in order to save energy, time and money, it is better to hire equipment for digging a hole.
Now is the time to take care of the sewer pipes that will go to the septic tank from the flush toilet. It is better if these are corrugated pipes. They do not need additional fittings when connected, which means that the drains will pass through fewer obstacles when draining. It is also important to consider here that the pipe from the drain toilet is best laid below the freezing level of the soil. If this is not possible, then the collector must be insulated. And do not forget that it is better to dig in corrugated pipes with dense sand. Since fluffy soil can change the trajectory of laying the pipe, and then there is a risk of stagnation of effluents in the pipeline.
Important: the slope of the corrugated pipe for the flush toilet to the septic tank must be at least 3% of its length. That is, if the length of the pipe is 5 m, then the entire length of the slope should be a maximum of 15 cm, distributed in equal proportions for each meter of the pipeline.
If plastic was chosen as the material for the mini septic tank under the cesspool, then it is enough to simply install the container correctly. The container must be mounted on a sand and gravel pad laid at the bottom. At the same time, loose materials are well rammed, and the tank itself is sprinkled in a pit with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1. For everything to go right, you need to gradually fill the tank with water by 20 cm and at the same time sprinkle the container with a mixture of bulk. Then we fill again, sprinkle. This technology will avoid subsequent squeezing and deformation of plastic in the ground under the influence of temperature changes or drains. If the plastic septic tank is installed deeper than 1.5 m, then a concrete slab is laid at the bottom of the pit, and the tank itself is anchored with anchors and clamp chains.
If you decide to fill a mini septic tank made of concrete, then in the finished pit it is necessary to build a formwork rectangular section. In this case, do not forget about the partitions. A reinforcing mesh should be installed over the entire height of the pit and formwork. It will make the monolithic septic tank stronger. In the formwork, we immediately form all the holes for the inlet pipe, ventilation and overflow channels. Pour the solution in portions, compacting it well.
Important: the method of standard baying of a raw solution is not suitable in this case. It is better to use a special manual vibrator. So the concrete will sit tighter. Otherwise, it happened that the finished concrete absorbed and then passed water like a sponge, if it was not well compacted during pouring.
Concrete dries for about a week, provided the weather is dry. So that the solution does not dry out abruptly, it is recommended to cover it with oilcloth and periodically moisten it a little.
After the body of the septic tank dries, it is necessary to concrete the bottom in two chambers of the treatment system. To do this, we cover the bottom with a layer of sand 20 cm thick and ram it well. We put a grid on it and fill in the solution with a thickness of 15-20 cm. We also wait for complete drying. The third chamber has a drainage bottom made of sand and gravel. The thickness of both layers should be at least 40 cm (20 cm each).
After the entire monolithic concrete structure dries, you can make the overlap. To do this, all the walls of the septic tank must be covered with stiffeners. Now lay the thick boards.
Important: it is worth remembering that the weight of a concrete floor 20 cm thick is 450 kg per 1 m2. Therefore, if the width of the septic tank is more than 1.5 meters, then central supporting pillars in every chamber. It is better if it is galvanized metal or asbestos-cement supports.
The concrete floor is also reinforced with a mesh at the pouring stage. Do not forget about the holes for inspection hatches and ventilation.
A brick mini septic tank is the best solution. Here you should lay out the brickwork of the septic tank box in a given volume. At the same time, the wall thickness for a square and round septic tank should be 25 cm. The partitions of the chambers can be thinner - 12 cm. At the masonry stages, do not forget to form pipe holes for overflow and drain.
Two chambers of a mini-cleaning system for a country toilet are made completely sealed with concrete poured into the bottom, and the third chamber may have drainage holes of about 3 cm in its lower part.
Important: the drainage chamber must be located at a distance of at least 1 meter from the level of groundwater flow.
The tightness of the first two brick chambers is ensured by using bituminous mastic. She is coated with tanks on both sides. Concrete floor for a brick septic tank, it can be done by analogy with a concrete monolithic tank. It remains to run the bacteria into the septic tank and decorate it upper part so that it does not violate the landscape design.
vodakanazer.ru
The sewer system for a summer residence, where numerous outbuildings are located, including a toilet, provides for the collection, disposal and treatment of wastewater that is formed as a result of human activity. At the same time, water should be used for hygienic and economic needs. One of the main tasks of the sewerage system on suburban area is the intake and disposal of feces.
It is very important to properly lay the sewer, as it is one of the main necessary elements for the improvement of the toilet and the entire suburban area, which forms a complex of primary household amenities. A sewer pipe system is required if the toilet is equipped with a faeces flush tank. First, wastewater should be diverted through internal pipelines to the outlet from the main toilet cubicle. This is carried out on the pipeline section from the base of the riser to the nearest manhole of the yard network, which crosses the boundary of the building.
Internal sewer networks can be laid openly or hidden. If outwardly such pipes do not violate the design of the room, then they can be safely laid openly. When laying pipelines, they are fixed to walls, ceilings and other building elements.
If desired, the pipeline for the toilet in the country house with sewerage can be hidden by embedding it in the building structures of the ceilings or in specially made grooves in the walls.
Look at the photo of the sewerage in the country house, made by yourself by laying the external and internal pipelines:
The outlet section of the sewerage system in the summer cottage must be laid directly into the ground or into special channels. With a pipe diameter of 50 mm, its maximum length can be 6 m. If pipes with a diameter of 100 mm or more are used to lay the sewer system, then their length can reach 8 m. Then the wastewater enters the outdoor sewerage network.
Before making a toilet in a country house with a sewer, at the end of the yard network, depending on the direction of wastewater flow, it is necessary to build a control well. After that, the wastewater passes through the connecting branch further into the street sewer pipe, if any. An inspection, or control, well is recommended to be installed in places where the sewer line turns or changes in the slope and diameter of pipes. In addition, the need to create such a well arises when new lines are connected.
Wells should be located in a straight line if the pipe diameter is 125 mm and its total length exceeds 40 m. When using pipes with a diameter of 150 mm or more, a control well can be placed after 50 m. The well can be made of brick or concrete rings. When constructing a brick well, the thickness of its walls depends on the structure of the soil.
How to make a sewer in a summer cottage, taking into account the quality of the soil? In dry soils, the wall can be laid out in half a brick, and in wet soils - in one brick. The well should be covered with a cast-iron manhole, the surface of the cover of which should be at the level of the yard cover.
When doing sewerage work at a summer cottage with your own hands, do not forget that sewage from the toilet on small summer cottages should go either into a cesspool or into a special storage tank for collecting sewage. In a private house, it is possible to equip a drain to a multi-chamber septic tank, designed for the accumulation and mechanical treatment of domestic wastewater. The most practical option is a two-chamber septic tank with separate drains.
To divert wastewater, an inexpensive and fairly simple external sewage system should be laid, with the help of which the waste itself will drain into the place designated for their collection.
How to make a sewer in the country with an external pipeline? For the device of external sewerage in the country with their own hands, special sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are most often used, which are intended for outdoor use.
Often, many summer residents increase the angle of slope when installing sewage, but with such a slope, the removal of the liquid fraction of wastewater occurs much faster, and the solid fraction remains and moves through dry pipes, which also often leads to clogging. In addition, with a slope exceeding 15 mm per 1 m, the pipes will wear out faster, so this value is considered to be the maximum.
Pipes must be laid with a slope. For pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, a slope of 2 ° is considered the most suitable, which allows you to effectively remove drains.
Before you make an external sewer in the country with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that reducing such a slope can be a real danger. With this reduction, wastewater will move through the pipeline at too low a speed, so the solids contained in it can precipitate and gradually clog the pipes.
External sewer pipes can be laid into the ground in different ways, depending on what material the joints will be sealed with. Usually clay or bituminous mastic is used for this.
It is much easier and cheaper to make a clay joint, but it can be quickly destroyed by trees with deep penetration of their roots into the soil, which often grow near the pipeline being laid.
When using clay to seal joints, pipes should be lowered and laid in a trench one at a time.
If it is necessary to lay a pipeline next to trees, which is most often found in a country house, then it is recommended to seal the sockets with bituminous mastic. In this case, it is possible to join the pipes on the surface of the earth into links of 3 m and lower such a link into the trench immediately after sealing the sockets.
Sewer pipes should always be laid with a socket against the flow of liquid. The correctness of laying the pipeline along a given slope can be checked using a level. It is recommended to lay the external sewage pipeline to a depth exceeding the level of soil freezing.
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First you need to find a place in the country where you can place the future septic tank. It should be understood that the toilet cannot be installed anywhere where it is necessary. Sanitary requirements have been developed, which in any case will have to be met:
Failure to comply with the above requirements can turn out sadly for the owner of the cottage and his family members with various intestinal disorders, deformation and complete destruction of the building (you will have to redo it), flooding the bathroom and other possible troubles.
To install a septic tank, you need to find a suitable place in the farthest corner of the cottage. And take into account that its location is not only convenient for the owners for comfortable use, but also does not cause unnecessary inconvenience to neighbors.
When building a septic tank on your own, it is necessary to adhere to some parameters of the future structure. The large dimensions of the bathroom are in no way suitable for summer cottage conditions, and besides, it will be necessary to provide for heating in the winter.
In a very small building there will be nowhere to turn around. Therefore, they use the most proven and optimal sizes of a toilet for a summer residence. It:
It is more expedient to use a 3-meter construction beam for construction, since approximately 90 cm of its length will be located in the ground.
The first stage is the preparation of the project and implementation preparatory work site cleaning, preparation of tools and materials. Planning and initial preparation will help to avoid possible mistakes and complete the construction on time. The choice of the type of pit should be taken with no less responsibility, since it will be very difficult to redo it in the future, this will entail unplanned expenses. It is from it that factors such as the durability of the structure, the possibility of its cleaning, the degree of spread of smell on the site and others will depend.
It is better to equip the pit with sufficient depth and width. The most important nuance that must be done is to strengthen the edges in the pit, since they will take the load from the foundation.
The next stage is the arrangement of the foundation. It is better to choose a tape type base for the toilet, it is considered the most reliable of all.
The optimal dimensions of the foundation: depth - 40 cm (with a pillow), width - 20 cm.
For the manufacture of the base, the following materials will be required: gravel, cement, water, sand, reinforcement (8 mm). After pouring, the foundation is allowed to stand for some time to solidify (about 3-4 days). Then proceed to the installation of walls, roofs and bases of the toilet.
Stage three - the frame and base of the toilet. The construction technology will depend on the material chosen. For all types, brick can be used as a basis, profile pipe or reliable timber. Walls are erected from this foundation - the supporting structure. It is sheathed with high-quality material, remembering the insulation and insulating material. Sheathing of the frame is made both inside and outside.
The final stage is the installation of the roof. It is made from the same material from which the walls were erected (desirable, but not necessary). Main characteristic the roof to which the coating must correspond - its tightness. This will avoid leaks in rainy weather and drafts in the windy. The toilet can additionally be equipped with various comfortable amenities: lighting, seat, ventilation. Thanks to the latter, unpleasant odors will instantly disappear.
First you need to decide on its volume, which will be based on the daily consumption of water. The norm per day for one person is about 200 liters. Therefore, to meet the needs of 3 people in the country, you will need a septic tank that can take 0.6 m³ per day. But the volume of the tank must be set to about 3.5 times more than the daily rate of water consumption, calculated for all people. In other words, in order to process 0.6 m³ of liquid, a septic tank with a volume of 2.1 m³ is required.
Consider the most common option for the construction of a septic tank - the construction of the walls of a sanitary well from concrete rings. To give this type of pit will be very solid and reliable.
What is required for work?
Materials:
A set of fixtures and tools for the construction of a concrete cesspool:
For several days, you will have to rent a crane to move the bottom of the well, concrete rings and the lid, since the ring of the indicated dimensions weighs 1 ton, and the lid and bottom weigh about 600 kg.
As you can see, making a toilet in a summer cottage on your own is not an easy task, as it might seem at first, but solvable. If you try, it is possible to create a good bathroom with a cesspool.
masterseptika.ru
There are many options for equipping a country toilet. You can use both old methods, proven for centuries, and modern innovative equipment.
You may be interested in the information - dry closet instructions for use
So, consider how you can equip a country toilet:
This option for building a toilet is familiar to almost everyone who has ever been to the countryside - an ordinary wooden booth over a pit. As a rule, such a structure is located quite far from residential buildings, so as not to frighten household members with their smells.
You may be interested in information-bio toilet for giving how to choose
However, if the size of your summer cottage is the traditional six acres, then making such a toilet “far from home” will not work.
If you still settled on the version of the classic toilet with a cesspool, then we recommend that you build a toilet according to the above diagram.
You may be interested in information-septic tank for a country street toilet
Please note that in this version of the cesspool under the toilet, its walls are reinforced, which prevents the penetration of sewage into the ground. Also, the pit is equipped with an exhaust hood with a ventilation pipe, which contributes to the development of aerobic microorganisms that clean sewage. For ease of maintenance, an inspection hatch is provided in the cesspool, to which, if necessary, a sewage truck can drive up.
The advantage of this construction scheme lies in the duration of the use of the structure. It can be cleaned forcibly and has minimal necessary conditions for self-hydrobiological wastewater treatment.
The formation of such a cesspool can be designed based on the available building materials. It could be a brick clay coating or precast concrete structures such as manhole rings.
The main disadvantage of the previous design option is the insufficient degree of sewage treatment and the possibility of sewage penetration into the ground. Next to such devices, it is impossible to dig a well in a limited summer cottage, and an autonomous well for water will have to be deepened by a significant amount.
The solution could be the creation for a country toilet (at the same time for all sewerage in the country house of the simplest home-made two-chamber septic tank.
The essence of such a device is as follows: it consists of two containers, the second is deeper into the ground than the first. Waste fecal and domestic waters enter the first tank, where primary settling takes place, and activated sludge is formed at the bottom, which produces hydrobiological treatment. The tank has a ventilation pipe that provides oxygen from the atmosphere to support the activity of cleaning microorganisms that decompose organic matter. The bottom of the first tank is sealed and prevents untreated runoff from entering the ground.
In the upper part of the first tank there is an overflow pipe, which takes partially settled and purified water into the second tank. At the bottom of the second container, a filter pad can be formed, consisting of river pebbles and/or quartz sand. Purified water after filtration enters the soil. Also, water after settling can overflow through the neck into a third container.
You can design and create home-made septic tanks for country toilets and sewers from almost any available materials. This may be a capital structure made of concrete casting or brickwork. Can also be used as walls prefabricated structures, for example, reinforced concrete well rings or plastic containers, the so-called eurocubes. You can also approach the creation of such a septic tank creatively and use old car tires, from which containers are created for sedimentation and accumulation of effluents. However, when using such a building material, the question arises of the tightness of the structure.
The simplest solution to the issue of creating a toilet in the country is to use a ready-made option - a dry closet.
This option is extremely common due to the simplicity and compactness of the solution. Such dry closets can be found in abundance even in urban environments, and they can also be installed on a temporary basis, for example, during public events.
The design of such a structure is quite simple - the role of a cesspool in them is played by containers of a sufficiently large volume (up to 250 liters) in which a special disinfectant filler is poured. Such a container can be mounted directly on the surface of the earth or with a slight depth. It should be noted that such a design can also work in winter conditions, at a sufficiently low negative temperature.
You may be interested in information - the principle of operation of the dry closet
The containers of dry closets are made of high-strength plastic, which significantly increases their service life. Such a container is easily subjected to hygienic cleaning.
There are designs in which the disinfectant is added to a self-contained drain tank, mixing with water.
The disadvantage of using such equipment is the need for regular routine maintenance, which is performed by specialized organizations. Also, the mobility of such a device can serve as a bait for thieves, because in your absence it can easily be moved to another place. However, there are services for the seasonal rental of dry closets, which are returned to their permanent owners at the end of the season.
There is an option to create a compact septic tank for a country toilet, which can not only clean sewage, but also form fertilizers for agricultural work.
So, one of the options for compact sewerage cleaning can be the creation of a tank with compost filler in the country toilet, which can be used as ordinary peat or its mixture with sawdust. In this case, the toilet does not require the use of water or a specialized disinfectant.
Also, compact septic tanks can be equipped with mechanical devices. Their function will include the removal of fluid through the drainage hoses. As in a classic cesspool, it is better to equip such a container with a separate ventilation pipe that removes unpleasant odors outside the tank.
After the work cycle, the compost tank is drained with a drain pipe, the dry compost itself is transferred to the pit. There, the “ripening” of the compost content takes place, which after a while becomes an excellent fertilizer suitable for agricultural use.
This septic tank can be upgraded by adding a second chamber with an overflow neck to it.
When using this equipment, you will not only solve the problem of sewage treatment, but also get an excellent fertilizer that increases the yield of your beds. In addition, the device of such a septic tank for a toilet in the country is a very economical option.
If you do not have the desire to run out of need to the far corner of your summer cottage, then you may well use ready-made solutions and purchase a portable home toilet.
This device combines an almost classic combination of a conventional toilet from a city apartment and a special storage tank. Sewer drains accumulate in a tank, which can be additionally filled with a disinfectant liquid. When the tank is full, the filling indicator is activated and you will always be aware of the need for routine maintenance.
Several modifications of portable toilets are made, differing from each other both in convenience and in the volume of the storage tank, which reaches several tens of liters. Such equipment is equipped with a flush system. Depending on the configuration, the price of such a device may vary.
Thus, you can build a toilet in the country and a septic tank for it based on a wide selection of equipment, ranging from the classic cesspool to high-tech autonomous cleaning devices.
| Model | Description | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Dry closet piteco 101 | Length: 800mm; Width: 540 mm; Height: 800 mm; Weight: 20 kg; Upper tank volume: 15 l; Lower tank volume: 70 l; Packed dimensions: 820x820x570 mm; Color: blue; Type: peat (compost). | 8 290 rub. |
| Dry closet thetford porta potti excellence elec | Length: 450 mm; Width: 388mm; Height: 458 mm; Weight: 5.5 kg; Upper tank volume: 15 l; Lower tank volume: 21 l; Indicator: water level; White color; Flushing system: electric; Type: liquid; Installation: portable | RUB 11,440 |
| Dry closet thetford porta potti qube 165 | Length: 427mm; Width: 383mm; Height: 414 mm; Weight: 4 kg; Permissible load: 250 kg; Upper tank volume: 15 l; Lower tank volume: 21 l; Indicator: no; Gross weight: 4.4kg; Packed dimensions: 414x383x427 mm; Color: gray; Flushing system: bellows; Type: liquid; Installation: portable | 4 990 rub. |
| Dry closet liquid Mr. little Mini 18 | Dry closet liquid MR. LITTLE MINI 18 with a storage tank of 18 liters and small dimensions is designed for use by a limited number of people and can be installed in the most modest room | 5 956 rub. |
| Dry closet liquid Thetford Porta potti qube 365 | THETFORD Porta Potti Qube 365 is a compact dry closet made of high-quality impact-resistant plastic. The design consists of 2 parts. At the top there is a seat and a container with water for flushing. In the lower split tank, with the help of chemicals, waste is split and unpleasant odors are neutralized. After filling, the tank can be easily detached to drain the dissolved waste. Uses liquid filler and pistol flush system. The device is easy to carry, its weight is only 4 kg | RUB 6,199 |
| Dry closet liquid Thetford Porta potti qube 145 | THETFORD Porta Potti Qube 145 is a comfortable dry closet made of impact-resistant plastic. This is one of the most budget models equipped with a bellows flush system. The dry closet does not require installation, and its compact dimensions and weight of only 3.6 kg ensure easy transportation. Designed for use by 2-3 people. | 3 509 rub. |
| Toilet cabin "Lux" | The type of toilet is chemical (liquid). The volume of the lower tank is 300 l. Weight 80 kg. Dimensions of the toilet cabin w-1120 mm; d-1120 mm; in-2400 mm. Complete set of the toilet cabin: Washbasin, Sink, Mirror, Paper holder, Hook for clothes, Seat and lid on the tank, Eyelets for a padlock. | 16 600 rub. |
| Portable dry closet SVITI 20L | Specifications: The volume of the lower tank is 20 liters. The volume of the upper tank is 10 liters. No fill indicator. Flushing manual, bellows pump. Dimensions - 400x340x410 mm. The volume of the lower tank is 20 liters. Volume of a tank for water is 10 l. |
5 000 rub. |
| Bucket - toilet 17 l | Material - plastic. With lid and carrying handle. | from 354 rubles |
| Dry closet peat TANDEM Compact Elite | TANDEM Compact Elite - peat composting dry closet. It has a capacious storage tank - 40 liters, which means it does not require frequent replacement of the filler. Dimensions Compact Elite: width - 380 mm, length - 600 mm, up to the toilet seat - 400 mm. Equipment: cover with a toilet seat; waste container; hose; instructions for use. |
RUB 5,069 |
kanalizaciyaseptik.ru
The best solution to the problem of waste in the private sector or in a summer cottage is to equip a septic tank with your own hands. This is a device that is primarily a large container for collecting sewage waste. It has the following varieties:
This is, in fact, a large sealed container into which drains enter and accumulate. Usually made of thick polyethylene, which does not enter into chemical reaction does not rust or rot. From it sewage is removed with the help of a sewage machine. It is also possible to shrink them with the help of special bioactive additives.
Tip: it is recommended to install a similar type of septic tank only if you rarely visit the cottage and do not live there for several days.
Then it just doesn't make sense to spend a lot on buying and installing more expensive equipment, and you won't need frequent paid cleaning.
This design is divided into two containers:
Tip: this septic tank is convenient to use on a site with a large unbuilt and unoccupied area with trees.
So that there are no problems with relocation in the future.
The achievement of this design is the presence, in addition to the mechanical and microbiological compartments, as in the previous version, of another one - the aerotank. In it, a compressor produces forced aeration, which significantly speeds up the decomposition of organic substances.
Cleaning in this case is achieved 98%. And the silty sediment formed at the bottom is excellent for use as fertilizer.
Tip: The septic tank system can easily withstand the maintenance of several houses, therefore, in order to save money, it is recommended to install it together with neighbors.
How to organize a toilet for a summer residence with a septic tank in the country on your own? Let's take a look at how such a system works.
Sample instruction:
The creation of an autonomous sewage system in the private sector or in the country is a very important and responsible business. If electricity and water are relatively easy to conduct, then in this case it is necessary to think about solving the problem.
As a solution, you can choose one of several options for a septic tank, which differ in price, performance and ease of use. You can also build a homemade system. It all depends on how much wastewater will need to be processed and what budget you expect to spend.
The video in this article will introduce you to additional materials on this topic.
Make your choice wisely!
oseptikah.ru
What is a septic tank? How does it differ from the unsurpassed low-cost device for waste disposal - a cesspool?
The difference is, first of all, that the septic tank does not require frequent pumping. 98% of domestic wastewater is ordinary water, which is perfectly absorbed by the soil.
At the heart of the principle of operation of the system of interest to us local sewerage is a simple idea:
Let's clarify: leaky cesspool is structurally simpler and also provides an acceptable rate of absorption of liquid effluents.
However, without separation, the soil quickly silts with a drop in absorbency.
In addition, groundwater pollution is an act provided for by the Criminal Code (Article 250).
How is separation provided?
Basic instructions for calculating a septic tank are contained in SNiP 2.04.03-85.
According to the text of the document, its volume should be:
The number of sedimentation tanks is also regulated:
Please note: the volume of the chambers following the first should be 25% of the calculated one. Thus, the volume of the primary septic tank for a two-chamber scheme is 75%, and for a three-chamber scheme - 50% of the calculated volume of the septic tank.
Let us return, however, to a more practical plane.
If the toilet for the dacha and the septic tank are located at a distance from the house, and there are no other sources of wastewater on the site, the maximum load on the treatment plant will hardly exceed 60-70 liters per day.
For a sewage system combined with a kitchen and a bathroom, the number of drains can be noticeably larger, but it is guaranteed to fall into the “up to a cube per day” category. Therefore, our choice is a single-chamber scheme.
What are the toilets for giving with a septic tank? What materials are being used? Of course, we are primarily interested in the treatment plant: the water closet scheme has too many years to please us with some innovations.
The simplest option for a minimum amount of wastewater is an ordinary steel barrel. It is dug in below the freezing level of the soil; under the inflow and overflow, holes are drilled in it, the edges of which are processed with a cutter. Silicone sealant is used to seal sewer pipes.
For a situation where a volume of 200 liters is not enough, you can use a plastic water container. The price of a container with a volume of 1000 liters is about 8000 rubles, which is clearly cheaper than a finished septic tank.
Since it can deform under the weight of the soil, the installation of such a sump has two subtleties:
And in this case, the filling pipe is sealed with silicone. Cutting holes is easy with a sharp knife.
Finally, an absolutely arbitrary size of the tank can be obtained in the case of the construction of a reinforced concrete septic tank. Welded steel mesh is used as reinforcement; after pouring the floor over a 10 cm sand bed, the wall formwork is built only from the inside. Outside, the function of the formwork will be performed by the soil walls of the pit, lined with polyethylene.
As a cover, you can lay a finished slab with a hatch or pour it on the spot monolithic slab. In the first case, you will have to use the services of a crane; in the second - to build formwork.
The inlet pipe and overflow in this case are laid before pouring the walls.
With any volume of drains, a 50 mm PVC sewer pipe can be used to make an overflow. The only trick is the selection of water from the sump. In order for water to be taken below the surface level, the pipe is equipped with a vertically oriented tee.
How to build a filter well of small capacity with your own hands?
Easy peasy.
With such a device, the entire surface of the pit will absorb water - both the bottom and (as it is filled) the walls. See also article compost pit in the country: features.)
In order for the smells from the toilet not to poison your life, the sewer must be ventilated. All that needs to be done is to bring the fan pipe from the top point of the sewer to the roof of the house or toilet and provide it with a deflector (umbrella).
Separately, it is worth mentioning a variety of preparations for country toilets, cesspools and septic tanks.
What are they doing?
What antiseptics for the toilet in the country can be found on sale?
| Category | Description |
| Bacterial preparations | Colonies of anaerobic bacteria that are activated when they enter the nutrient medium. Bacteria significantly reduce the amount of solid or readily feed on fatty deposits on the walls of sewer pipes. To maintain the life of the colony, a monthly supplement of the drug is required. |
| Chemicals | The most harmless and common antiseptic additives - nitrate oxidizers - are close in composition to nitrogen fertilizers. They act until the influx of new effluents reduces the concentration of the drug to ineffective. Slightly reduce the amount of solid sediment due to oxidation, but completely eliminate the smell of the toilet. |
For more information about the construction of country toilets and treatment facilities for them the reader, as usual, will be able to find in the video in this article. We hope that our tips and recommendations will be useful. Good luck!
9dach.ru
For some reason, some people think that a septic tank for cesspools and toilets is some kind of chemical agent, but this is not the case at all. So, a septic toilet - what is it? These are two or three overflow tanks in which sewage is filtered:
Some are looking for septic tanks for a dry closet, but this is a delusion, since it is not needed there. I think it would be superfluous to explain why.
Perhaps the most popular model is the "Tank" - it is a very powerful and easy-to-use tank. The container is made of a cast body with stiffeners, and the thickness of the walls can be from 10 mm to 17 mm (depending on the volume). This model is equipped with an infiltrator, which serves for additional purification of processed wastewater.
Among the shortcomings of the "Tank" one can probably single out only one - this is the need to pump out the tanks at a certain degree of their filling. But if we talk about solid waste, then you will have to clean it no more than once every 5-6 years. Depending on the volume, the price of the "Tank" in Moscow at the moment ranges from 19,800 to 58,300 rubles.
More expensive (from 83,000 to 147,000 rubles), complex, but at the same time very reliable and efficient design, this is Uponor Sako, the installation of which you see in the photo above. Such a septic tank is usually used in the private sector for a large number tenants, for example, it can be a family of 6-7 people.
As you noticed, the tank has a rather specific shape of chambers - this allows solid inclusions to be distributed evenly during settlement.
Uponor Sako operates on the principle of soil filtration, that is, after passing through three stages of purification, the water is suitable for watering the garden or other technical needs. This is very convenient, as it allows you not to use (not order) a sewage truck to clean the cells. But, nevertheless, you will periodically have to clean out solid waste anyway.
Perhaps you need a septic tank in the country with a toilet, but at the same time you cannot afford to purchase such a design in a store. There is always a way out for homemade design You can use any containers that you have on the farm. These can be concrete rings, as in the top photo, brick pits, metal and plastic barrels.
Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes
It is very important that the sewer pipe that will be led to the tank has the correct slope. In the private sector, you will most likely use a 100mm diameter pipe, although for a large family it may be 150mm.
Segments for overflow from one container to another should be located with a height difference of 10-15 cm (between the inlet and outlet).
As you understand, all containers must be closed so that the smell does not spread throughout the estate and beyond. But at the same time, you will need access to remove solid waste.
That is why it is best if you make a hatch with your own hands. The easiest way to organize access to the sewer is in a homemade septic tank made of concrete rings, as shown in the top photo.
It is very important that the water at the outlet is as pure as possible, so in the last tank a pillow is made of sand and small gravel with a height of at least 25-30 cm. Of course, from time to time you will need to change this pillow, but for 5-6 years you it will be sufficient. And if the family is small, then perhaps it will be enough for 10-15 years.
Table of required distances between various objects and sewers
Water that will enter the ground from homemade septic tank, will still not be clean enough, so pay attention to the table above, which shows the required distances to different objects.
In addition, it is better for you to additionally use septic tank cleaners, this can be:
obustroeno.com
The septic tank under the toilet, located on the street, works according to a special principle. It consists in some physical properties substances present in sewage.
In this case, all kinds of heavy residues under the influence of their weight settle to the bottom, and the light ones remain on the surface. As a result, only water remains in the middle layer.
For ordinary cesspools, a characteristic feature is a strong and unpleasant odor. A properly equipped septic tank for a toilet on the street, unlike cesspools, does not emit pungent odors.
In addition, one more negative property cesspools is the need for their regular treatment, otherwise harmful microorganisms may appear, which, as you know, are the main sources of many diseases.
In turn, septic tanks that you can equip with your own hands do not allow harmful bacteria to multiply.
In order to properly equip a septic tank for a toilet in a summer cottage, it is important to adhere to certain conditions. First of all, it should not be equipped near a residential building, as well as near a well.
The pipe that will go directly from the toilet to the septic tank must be laid below the freezing level of the soil.
In addition, such a specific structure should be equipped without fail with a special hatch, as well as an air duct.
All of the above conditions apply to cesspools, and therefore their implementation is mandatory in any case.
It should also be noted that any septic tank must have good strength and reliability, be able to withstand high pressure and withstand various aggressive environments.
Based on these requirements, one should select the material from which a septic tank for a summer toilet in a summer cottage will be made with one's own hands.
Before you start building a septic tank for a country toilet, you need to decide on the material from which it will be made, as well as its location.
To date, there are several different materials from which you can make a septic tank in the country.
The use of Eurocubes is considered the most optimal, however, for an ordinary country toilet, it is inexpedient and expensive to install these containers.
Also, septic tanks are equipped with concrete rings, as well as by pouring concrete mortar with formwork.
You can assemble a septic tank from a brick, in which case you will need to perform brickwork.
When choosing the material from which the septic tank will be made for a country toilet, it is necessary to give preference to a more practical and inexpensive one.
The device of a septic tank is somewhat reminiscent of the device of ordinary cesspools, however, it has several significant differences that you need to pay attention to.
The place for a septic tank is best determined on a flat and elevated area, away from residential buildings and groundwater.
The presence of groundwater near the septic tank being built can lead to the fact that drinking water will become unusable.
The soil under this structure should not be very hard, and should not “float”.
If you ignore all these requirements, then after some time the design of the toilet and the septic tank itself can be deformed and, accordingly, collapse.
It is best if the septic tank is equipped in some far corner of the summer cottage.
Also, before you start building a septic tank in the country with your own hands, you should prepare the necessary material and tools.
Next, you should decide on the type of pit, while taking into account such factors as durability, the possibility of cleaning during operation, as well as the degree of distribution bad smell by territory.
The pit under the septic tank must have the appropriate dimensions, and its edges are securely reinforced, as they have to withstand fairly strong loads.
After the base is poured, it must be given time for complete drying and setting.
When the foundation is completely dry and the formwork is removed from it, it is necessary to properly prepare the bottom of the pit. To do this, you should equip a pillow of crushed stone and sand in the pit.
The layer of such a pillow should not exceed twenty centimeters, in addition, it should be tightly packed. Next, the installation of the structure of the toilet itself is carried out and it is best to do it from bricks.
This work does not require any specific knowledge and can be completely free to do it yourself.
More practical would be a septic tank for a country toilet, built from concrete rings, which are used to build wells.
This work, with the right approach to business, can be done by hand. First, you should accurately calculate the volume of the septic tank being built.
The best option would be to build a septic tank for a country toilet from three concrete rings of standard sizes.
The next stage of work will be digging a pit with your own hands required sizes. The bottom of the pit should be compacted as tightly as possible, and then form a pillow of crushed stone and sand.
After the pit is completely ready, the concrete rings themselves are carefully lowered into it. All joints that will be formed between the rings must be carefully covered with cement mortar.
After the solution is completely dry, the surface should be treated with a special waterproofing mixture.
Next, the septic tank is equipped with a pipe, with the help of which it will later be possible to clean the structure, and a pipe is cut in the middle of the lower ring, from which all the settled liquid will be removed.
All pipe entry points must be treated with waterproofing and carefully sealed.
Of course, in a summer cottage, you can equip a septic tank with your own hands, consisting of several separate tanks, but this is not always advisable.
For a country toilet, it is usually equipped like a cesspool, while making minor design changes.
In any case, it is necessary to pay special attention to the strength of the structure and the ability to effectively counteract various aggressive environments.
It is also necessary to provide access to the interior of the septic tank if necessary, to carry out any urgent repairs.
Do not neglect the construction of this sewer structure and the rules of sanitary safety.
It should be remembered that in this structure there is a possibility of reproduction of a variety of harmful bacteria and microorganisms, which means that it is potentially dangerous.
The septic tank for the toilet should be located as far as possible from residential buildings and constantly monitor the level of sewage.
In any case, construction should be carried out in accordance with generally accepted technology and safety rules.
Sewerage in a private house, equipped according to the project plan and using modern building materials and technologies, is an affordable and safe process for upgrading your home.
When building a private house, a drainage network is carried out at the design stage, along with other engineering communications. But even in an already built dwelling, it is possible to organize a comfortable bathroom. In the presence or absence of the possibility of connecting to a centralized sewer, the progress of work and the arrangement of proper communications are the same, only the organization of wastewater disposal will differ.
Sewerage is a vertical riser and thinner pipes for sewage from a sink or toilet bowl to this riser, which then flows into wider horizontal pipes, and from them into a central sewer network or treatment plant.
The arrangement of the drainage system depends on:
Conventionally, sewerage is classified into 2 types:
This network - installed risers of fan pipes and mounted wiring of plumbing products. The drainage system should be thought out when planning a private house, placing rooms with access to water as close as possible to each other.
The ideal option is adjacent rooms to simplify the internal sewage system. In the first place is also the question of the competent location of the collector element for convergence to it all water pipes.
The development of a sewer scheme involves:
The scheme will help in carrying out the installation of the system and determining the amount of building materials. Calculation of calculations implies:
The correct execution of the above calculations will affect the performance and efficiency of possible overloads.
Mandatory aspects:
Rules, non-observance of which guarantees the inoperability of the internal sewage system or a system failure:
The location of the pipeline outlet depends on the location of the collection well, whose installation is desirable at the lowest point of the land allotment.
The choice of products is made according to their rigidity, anti-corrosion and finances. Preferred materials:
Material Features:
The best choice for components made of polypropylene or PVC. Their ends are arranged in such a way that the connection of 2 pipes is possible when the end of the 1st pipe is placed in the socket of the 2nd pipe. To connect to the external sewer system, it is used corrugated pipe due to its resistance to soil movements. Advantages - affordability, ease of transportation and installation, lack of demand for welding during their assembly. Sealant is enough to process the seams.
The material of fittings and accessories must be the same as the pipes themselves. For sewer wiring, it is better to use components made of polyethylene and polypropylene. The PVC version has lower performance properties.
The cross section of the products depends on the gutter volume and the number of connected devices, whose cross sections of the components are selected equal to or greater than the drain pipe. Products for the riser are selected from 10 cm in cross section for connection with a toilet bowl, and from 5 cm without it. The distance from the equipment to the riser is up to 3 m, and from the toilet bowl - 1 m. To increase given value larger pipes are used.
Necessary construction tools: a saw for cutting pipes, a sharp knife for leveling cuts and rubber seals for inserting into sockets. Fittings for connecting accessories:
For easier and tighter entry of pipes into each other and into fittings, the sockets should be heated in hot water.
Work order:
The density of the joints and the rigidity of the fastening of the system to the wall ceilings must be observed, there should be no pipe discrepancies. It is important to follow the rules:
Upon completion of installation, the tightness of the system is checked.
A sharply drained volume of water contributes to the creation of rarefaction of the in-line space. Without oxygen, water leaves the siphons, which is the result of the smell of sewage.
Therefore, ventilation tasks:
To create ventilation, all components of the risers are brought to the roofing, without closing their upper end, but hiding from clogging. Or, at the top of the riser, an aeration valve is mounted that does not release aromas and conducts air inside.
The cross section of the pipe for ventilation is equal to or greater than the size of the riser. Combining the hood with a chimney or ventilation is not possible. Rules for calculating the height of the hood:
If it is impossible to arrange ventilation, an air vent valve is used on the riser above the bathroom equipment to prevent sewage from entering.
Restrictions on the location of sewer facilities:
The private building is removed for:
Water pipelines to the septic tank are insulated so that they do not freeze in winter with a heat insulator and are placed in asbestos-cement structures. External wiring is made by elements with a section of 10 - 11 cm, whose slope is 2 cm by 2 m. It is desirable to lay components without turns and corners.
