When performing various works on the improvement of the site, it is often necessary to make concrete mortar. It is very difficult to knead it in a trough, while achieving High Quality solution is almost impossible.
A manual concrete mixer will help to significantly facilitate the work and improve the quality of the solution. Such a unit will help to make quickly and efficiently any cement-sand mortar.
Scheme of an electric concrete mixer: 1 - barrel, 2 - blades, 3 - handle, 4 - frame, 5 - electric motor, 6 - gearbox, 7 - suspension loop of the electric motor platform, 8 - limiter.
The concrete mixer can be purchased from hardware store but they are not cheap. If the amount of work is small and they are performed irregularly, then the best option there will be a manual concrete mixer with your own hands.
For self-manufacturing such a unit can be used the simplest materials. First of all, it is required to determine the required one-time productivity (for a manual concrete mixer, about five buckets of the finished solution are quite enough). Then you need to prepare working sketches, necessary materials and tools.
The main working body of this unit is the drum. It is best to use as a drum metal barrel capacity from 100 to 200 liters.
To create a manual concrete mixer, you will need the following materials and tools:
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Work on the assembly of a hand mixer is carried out in the following sequence:
Barrel fastening scheme on racks: 1 - agitator shaft, 2 - suspension bearing, 3 - concrete mixer shaft bearing, 4 - bearing housing, 5 - suspension.
You will need a concrete trough for initial stage construction, for example, when constructing a temporary fence, or building a change house. After all, while there is nothing at all on the site, including electricity, then it is this capacity that will help you knead the concrete mixture.
To make a trough, we need the following materials:
First you need to prepare two two-meter boards. The edges must be trimmed, as shown in the diagram.
Now we nail the galvanized steel sheet to these prepared boards, bending the edges. Next, we fasten meter boards on self-tapping screws.
So that the nails do not lick over time, we additionally strengthen the entire structure with self-tapping screws.
Due to the fact that they drank on long boards, they have a semicircular shape, short boards, tightly fitting on top, form a kind of handles below, for which you can easily carry a trough for concrete.
After the first kneading, the trough will become practically airtight due to the filling of cracks with concrete mortar, which will harden over time and will not let water through.
A master class on making a bucket-shovel kit that can serve a bricklayer, plasterer or concrete worker for many years to prepare concrete (cement mortar) with his own hands in cases where the use of a concrete mixer is impossible or impractical.
The main part that solves many problems with physical activity- this is the very form of the tub. A round or elliptical shape is ideal for this task. If you can afford to buy a 200-liter barrel of fuel and lubricants (fuel and lubricants), then you are already more than half done.
One barrel will make two tubs.
By selling a second copy, you will fully recoup the cost of materials, so your tub will cost you nothing, and maybe you will also earn extra money. By the way, it is much better if it is a thick-walled barrel. The thickness of the metal should be somewhere between 1.5 - 2 millimeters (it is possible that today they are no longer produced). Such a tub will serve you for many years, even if you use it every day. If you use a tin barrel, then it will not be enough even for a season.
If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a thick-walled barrel, then the container itself can be made from sheet metal of the specified thickness. This thickness can still be bent along desired diameter without resorting to outside help.
A square of 900x900 millimeters and two semicircles with a specified long arc will go to one container. Manually, the sides can be made ellipses with a long bend of 900 millimeters, stretched horizontally.
For one tub you will also need:
To make a shovel, you will need a piece of pipe with a diameter of three quarters of an inch, a length of 1100 - 1200 millimeters - this is a holder, and a square or rectangular piece of sheet metal 200x200 mm, or 200x250 mm, 2 - 3 millimeters thick - this is the blade of a shovel. The canvas can be made from an ordinary old bayonet shovel. It has a smaller thickness, but the metal has been heat treated, so it has sufficient strength. In this case, it will be necessary to align the bends that the legs rest against and cut off the pointed end.
These sizes are ideal for a person with a height of 170 - 180 centimeters. If you are much taller, then simply place boards or bricks under the legs of the tub to such a position that it is convenient for you to work without bending over much.
If you bought a barrel. It is ringed with a round corner, which must be cut off. This is a side scrap metal that is not useful now. After that, inspect the barrel. It has a filler neck and a longitudinal welded seam. The barrel will need to be cut lengthwise so that the weld is not far from the cut.
Cutting along the seam itself is not worth it: firstly, the seam metal is more durable (hot), and secondly, it is thicker.
Step back from the seam by 5 centimeters or a little more. Then you will not get to the second layer of metal, which is launched from the inside with an overlap - you do not know in which direction it is launched.
Having cut the barrel, this excess strip must be carefully cut off and the inside of the welded seam should be ground to the level of the surface of the barrel. Try to cut exactly in half, without offset, so that it does not turn out that different semicircular edges are turned one relative to the other. Good, but not important if the cut goes past the filler neck.
Now half-inch pipes need to be welded along the sections of the barrel cylinder.
You need to weld them so that they are outside the container, without going inside. This is clearly visible in the photo on the right tub.
It is much more convenient to cook from the inside of the container along the end of the cut, but then you will need to grind the seams so that they are not sharp. High quality grinding is not required. For reliability, several penetrations can be made along the entire length of the pipe with outside.
The container is ready. In this container, you can easily prepare a batch of mortar for five 12-liter buckets of sand, or a batch of concrete with a proportion of 1/3/4, counted by the same buckets.
If you couldn’t get a barrel, we’ll get by with sheet metal, from which you need to cut a square with an edge of 900 millimeters and two semicircles with specified length arcs (this size corresponds to the size of a tub from a barrel, and this is very convenient size) or whatever size you prefer. If you need a tub of a different size, calculate the length of the arc and the width of the tub and build on these dimensions.
First, half-inch pipes are welded at the ends as shown in Figure-1.
Fig 1. We make a container for preparing a solution from sheet metal.
Stepping back from the edges a couple of centimeters, draw straight lines perpendicular to the welded pipes. On them you will weld semicircles. We will simultaneously weld both semicircles, gradually bending the sheet and fixing the structure. Let's start from one of the pipes - securely grab both semicircles with the ends along the ends of the sheet near the pipes and boil 1 - 1.5 centimeters along the semicircle. Semicircles must be held perpendicular to the sheet of metal. After both semicircles are tacked, we turn the structure over with the bends of the semicircles up.
Now it will be convenient for us to gradually bend the sheet of metal down, holding it by the second welded pipe. Gradually tilting it, you need to make potholders on both semicircles, approximately every 5 to 7 centimeters.
Figure 2. It is better to do these tacks from the outside of the tub. Make sure that sheet metal adjoined the semicircles along the drawn lines. Then the tub will turn out not deformed.
When the sheet is tacked along the entire length of the sides, do not rush to scald the seams so as not to deform the container. We will scald them later, when we set the structure to the required rigidity.
The easiest way would be to make the racks separately, and then weld them to the tank. To do this, we put reinforcement or a corner on the ground, which will be the base. We apply the legs to it at a slight angle so that they expand towards the base. We grab the legs to the base, then spread the opposite edges of the legs to the distance of the width of the container (you can attach it close to the container so as not to mess with a ruler or tape measure). We look for the legs to converge at the same angle. In this position, we scald the legs and base. One rack is complete. In the same way, we make the second rack.
We put the container on the ground with the bend up. We put racks on the sides so that they are perpendicular to the ground, and we grab them to the container. We take spacers and on both sides we also grab them to the racks and containers. If the length of the spacers allows, then they can be welded to the bend of the racks and the middle of the pipe on the tank. If there is no required length, then at an angle of 45 degrees to the rack and container we are looking for something in between.
If we are satisfied with the resulting shape (the main thing is that the base of the racks is parallel to the ground) - we scald the tacks of the spacers. We repeat the same with the second rack.
It remains for us to weld the seams along the bend of the container so that they are “tight” and do not let water through. If you have excess metal, and you plan to use this tub a lot, then you can increase its service life if you weld an additional strip 7–10 centimeters wide along the bend to the semicircle from the inside of the container along the bend. This is the weakest spot on the bucket, where it is most likely to rub.
But even if you do not, it will last you for many years.
The tub turns out to be quite light.
One person can easily carry it. And you can even transport it on a scooter, turning the legs forward and passing them under the steering wheel, and lowering them onto the seat with a container.
It is worth removing a little metal from one end of the pipe so that the sheet of the shovel blade sinks into the pipe and is flush with the edge of the pipe.
So it will be more convenient to weld the parts together.
The overlap of the canvas on the pipe must be made sufficient, five centimeters, because the load will be large, especially during concrete mixing.
The width of the shovel blade should not be made wider than 20 centimeters and longer than 25, otherwise it will be difficult to knead. Perfect Size- 20x20 centimeters.
At the other end of the pipe, it is desirable to chamfer so as not to cut the hand.
It would be nice to make the end of this pipe a little larger in diameter, for example, an inch. Then, if you have weak hands, it will be easier to turn the shovel around the axis. Ideally, a ball with a diameter greater than the diameter of the pipe end should be welded onto the end. Especially if you are tall, or the length of the handle is shorter than indicated at the beginning of the article. Then it is more likely that you will hold on to the edge of the holder, and the ball will prevent the appearance of corns.
The design of the bucket allows you to knead with minimal effort. The use of rounding allows you to work not great strength muscles, but by its weight.
Place the shovel on the edge of the mixture.
With your weight, push it down to an almost horizontal position.
It slides around the circumference and lifts part of the mixture.
You turn over the mixture raised on the shovel along with the shovel and dump it next to it.
Now pull the poured mixture with a shovel towards you.
At the same time, move the shovel up and down, as if cutting the solution.
It is better to start kneading from the place in the tub where the water has accumulated, but do it without very sudden movements so as not to stain yourself with splashes.
After you have done the described steps several times in one place, move to the side half the width of the shovel or the entire width, and pour the mixture onto the previously mixed one, and again bring the mixture to the desired state.
Thus, you will knead the mixture quickly enough and the least tired.
With regular, almost daily use of this set, repairs will only be needed after a few years.
It is most convenient to stir at the sides of the tub. Because of this, the horizontal pipes on the tub wear out more on the sides.
If desired, this pipe can be cut off and welded on the other side or replaced with another.
Also, the handle on the shovel will gradually wear off in the place where it rubs. Just cut off the leaky piece of pipe (if you notice that the holder begins to bend under heavy load) and weld it to the canvas again, and add the missing piece of a thicker pipe from the opposite end.
When preparing a mortar, for example for wall plastering, first pour the sand into the right amount(if you want to use the volume of the tub to the maximum, then leave one bucket of sand for later, when you fill and mix the water). Then add the cement and mix them dry until the cement is completely mixed with the sand and there are no large streaks of sand. Now you can add water. Experiment. Don't pour too much water at once. If you "overdo it" and the solution becomes too liquid, you will have to add sand and cement and mix again for a long time. When you add water, it is much faster to stir it to a uniform solution.
If the solution is too thick, it is very difficult to stir and it comes out in lumps. If the solution is too thin, it is very easy to stir and run off the shovel. With the correct density of the solution, a characteristic rustle appears, it is relatively easy to mix the solution, and it remains on the shovel even when you turn the shovel at 30 - 45 degrees to the horizon.
According to the requirements of the standards, for the preparation of the solution mechanically should take at least 15 minutes. This is necessary so that the cement grains are well crushed and envelop the grains of sand. With manual preparation, this time must be at least doubled ... Of course, in domestic conditions, no one will punish you for non-compliance with standards, but it is worth achieving at least a uniform color of the solution (so that there are no streaks of unmixed sand). In order for the solution to take the same brand throughout the volume, after that it is worth stirring for a few more minutes. Your solution is ready.
If you are slowly developing a solution, or if it is standing outside hot weather, then the solution in the tub will become more rigid over time. Just add a little water and mix until you get the right consistency. Cement mortar, unlike the cement adhesive that is used for tiles, can be "stored" for up to several days. It is only important to stir it regularly.
It is possible that you did not calculate, and by the end of the day you had a large number of a solution that you could work out tomorrow. No problem! Add a large amount of water and bring the solution to the state of liquid sour cream. The next day, drain the water that has risen to the top, and first “scrape off” the solution in thin layers, then add a little cement and mix. If the solution turns out to be liquid, add a little more cement and sand and mix again. This solution can be used.
Starting concrete preparation by hand is similar to preparing mortar. If you have already mixed sand with cement and added water, crushed stone can be added even before the mixture is thoroughly mixed. Since crushed stone does not weaken the mixture, but only serves as a filler, it is not necessary to mix it for a long time. But during the time when the added crushed stone will be mixed, the cement will continue to be rubbed and mixed with sand. This way you will speed up the process.
Do not pour out all the rubble at once. For a proportion of 1/3/4 (1 cement, 3 sand, 4 gravel), sand and cement are mixed in full, after mixing them with water, add two buckets of crushed stone, mix them, add two buckets of crushed stone again and mix again. If hard concrete works for you, you can add another bucket of crushed stone later. The ratio is 1/3/5. It is possible that the volume of the tub will allow you to add another bucket of rubble, but it will be very difficult to knead it.
Concrete is very sensitive to water. If necessary, add water, do it in small portions, one glass at a time, and mix until even. When the concrete is ready, note the amount of water that has been applied. Next time you can pour out almost all the water at once. Leave the water for 2-3 additives - this is in case the sand or gravel is wetter.
For manual cooking, try not to use crushed stone of a large fraction - it is difficult to knead it. Maximum size 20 - 40 millimeters. If, according to technology, there should be large crushed stone in concrete, add it at the very end.
I will give you a couple great advice how to quickly and easily choose a container for mixing cement mortar, or how to easily assemble a convenient trough for mortar yourself. One of the most time-consuming jobs in the construction business is the preparation of mortar. Therefore, the container for the solution should be comfortable and durable.
For kneading the furnace solution, the old cast iron bath or construction bucket. You can use a large galvanized trough. But if there is nothing suitable at hand, I advise you to make a trough under
You can use a large galvanized trough
do-it-yourself solution.
For this you will need edged boards 40 mm thick, about 200 mm wide and a sheet of galvanized iron 1 × 2 m in size. Knock down a box 2 meters long, 1 meter wide and about 40-50 cm high from the boards. Cover the bottom of the box with a sheet of iron. Then separate 1/3 of the length with a partition. For the most part, soak, mix and filter the clay, and for the lesser part, prepare the solution by adding sand to the processed clay.
If the solution trough leaks on first use, don't worry. After a while, the clay reliably seals all the cracks, and the trough will never leak again. And it will serve you for a long time - and for mixing not only clay, but also cement.
I will give a couple of great tips on how to quickly and easily choose a container for mixing cement mortar, or easily assemble a convenient trough for mortar yourself. One of the most time-consuming jobs in the construction business is the preparation of mortar. Therefore, the container for the solution should be comfortable and durable. An old cast-iron bath or construction tub is perfect for kneading the furnace mortar. You can use a large galvanized trough. But...
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Hello dear friends.
Any small building can never do without foundation. Whether columnar or strip foundation their main components are steel reinforcement and concrete. Thanks to these two materials, real masterpieces of architectural construction are currently being created that can withstand hurricanes, earthquakes and heavy loads.
IN modern world there are a huge number of machines that make it easier to work with concrete, but since we do everything ourselves and with our own hands, we do not need to build five hundred meter structures, we need a small amount of concrete, then we will knead it manually.
Today I want to talk about how to knead concrete with my own hands, with a minimum of effort.
As a child, I remember my grandfather always told me: “Vlad, in any business you need certain skills, abilities and a certain order in work, only then can the job be done quickly and efficiently.”
After that, he gave me an example about two diggers, one had been doing this work for 20 years, and the second was a “novice student”. They began to dig two identical holes side by side. So, the trainee spent three times more time on work than the teacher.
Do you know why? A person who has devoted so much time to this profession already intuitively knows at what angle to insert a shovel into the ground, how to throw the earth out of the pit with a minimum of effort and getting the maximum result, and many other secrets.
In my construction practice, I often had to deal with the construction of the foundation with my own hands, and this, respectively, with the work of mixing concrete. Honestly, I confess to you, as soon as it came to mixing concrete with my own hands, it was a “sharp knife” for me.
And in one of these “unfortunate” cases for me, I remembered what my grandfather told me in childhood. The thought arose, probably, I really knead the concrete incorrectly, I use the wrong technology that people use. Why is it so hard for me to do this job?
Having rummaged through the Internet, and having read the available literature, I still did not understand what lies main secret. And then, a housemate brought four KAMAZ trucks of sand, four KAMAZ trucks of crushed stone, an ordinary metal bath and invited 4 workers from sunny Tajikistan to work.
At first, I didn’t even believe my eyes that he wanted to cast a foundation for a house 10 * 10 meters with such forces. Until recently, I did not believe that this was possible.
You know, I was deeply mistaken. A week later, to my surprise, the foundation was cast.
It was here that I borrowed the technology of how to knead concrete with a saving of 40% of effort.
So, I’m telling you how concrete is prepared with your own hands using the example of one bath.
We will make concrete from M500 cement, so the proportions for preparing concrete will be as follows: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone, 1 part of water. For convenience, we will take one bucket for one part.
Step 1. Pour two buckets of water into the container. Additional water may need to be added depending on the moisture content of the sand.
Step 2 Pour 2 buckets of cement into the water (without a hillock). In principle, 4 buckets are placed in a 50 kg bag, i.e. pour half a bag of cement.
During backfilling, we constantly stir the mixture of water and cement until a homogeneous liquid mass is obtained.
Step 3 Constantly stirring, we fall asleep six buckets of sand.
We bring the state of the mixture to a homogeneous consistency. After the introduction of the last bucket, the mixture becomes difficult to interfere, but tolerable.
Step 4 We introduce eight buckets of crushed stone into the resulting mixture.
It is necessary to pour crushed stone not in one place, but evenly distributing it over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe container in which the batch is made. After each bucket, mix the resulting concrete.
After the introduction of the last eighth bucket and thorough mixing, our concrete is ready to be poured into the formwork.
I kneaded the concrete with a shovel, but the guys at the neighbor, mixed together with different parties. Moreover, one kneads concrete with a shovel, the second with an ordinary garden hoe.
I'm telling you honestly, as if in spirit, you spend 40% less effort than with any other method.
And those who advise mixing all the ingredients dry, before adding water, probably never tried to make concrete with their own hands and know the whole technology of how to knead concrete only in theory.
When mixing dry mix it is very difficult to lift and mix it, especially from the bottom of the concrete tank after adding water.
I hope that after reading the article to the end, now you can save a lot of effort when making concrete with your own hands. In the same way, you can knead the solution with your own hands for surface plastering, for laying bricks or for surface cladding with natural stone.
All light and fast construction projects. Good luck building.
Best regards, Ponomarev Vladislav.
Source: https://legkovmeste.ru/poleznye-sovety/beton-svoimi-rukami.html
Despite all the advantages of using ready-made concrete, very often builders have to knead cement mortar or concrete with your own hands directly at the construction site of the facility.
The actual use of do-it-yourself concrete is when you need to pour a small reinforced concrete structure, make a local screed on the floor, a path in the yard, as well as steps for the stairs.
As a rule, it is necessary to apply and prepare concrete with your own hands in the following cases:
According to their purpose, concretes are divided into the following types:
Cement is the main component of concrete, it is usually used under grade 500 or 400. There are grades from 100 to 600, in increments of 100. This figure indicates the strength of cement, which ranges from 10 to 60 MPa.
That is, cement after 28 days, at the time of final hardening, will have the compressive strength indicated on the package, in MPa. It is better to use this component fresh, as it loses its qualities during long storage.
The maximum shelf life of cement is up to one year, after which it will need to be disposed of.
In order to prepare concrete with your own hands, for example, for a foundation, you will also need the following components: sand, crushed stone and water. Sand is recommended to use quarry. It will definitely need to be sifted from all sorts of debris. And crushed stone will be needed as a concrete aggregate.
Expanded clay, slag and other porous aggregates are suitable for lightweight concrete. For "lean" concrete, which is used as a screed for the floor in the garage, aggregates are not used. It is possible, depending on the conditions and technological requirements, apply additives or additives as desired.
Water is added to the required density according to the proportion.
Thus, the main components of concrete during mixing have the following proportions - 1/3/5. That is, 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of crushed stone are taken for one part of cement.
Multiply the length of the structure by the width of the structure, then multiply by the height of the cover. The result is the volume of concrete. With a coating height of 0.1 m with a structure length of 10 m and a width of 1 m, 1 m3 of concrete will be required.
In this case, the volume of water will be equal to the weight of cement divided in half, that is, for example, 25 liters of water will be required for 50 kg of cement. Water should be added gradually, observing the proportions.
From the tools you will need the following set:
Manual kneading building mix or concrete mortar consists of the following steps:
Using an electric concrete mixer will allow you to perform this procedure much faster, as well as prepare the most homogeneous solution.
With the help of a concrete mixer, you can do a lot more work on mixing concrete.
Determined that quality concrete possible only if the exact proportions are observed. Of course, its brand depends on the quality of the components used. Good luck!
Source: http://TvoyGarazh.ru/materialy/beton-svoimi-rukami.html
OWN PRODUCTION.
We carry out orders for production solution containers!
By drawings customer.
Price list:
| TR-0.1 st 2.0mm | 100 | 250 | 940 | 650 | 340 | 15 | 1500r. |
| YAR-1(trough)* REINFORCED | 250 | 630 | 1340 | 600 | 410 | 55 | 3900r. |
| TR-0.25 boat st 2.0mm | 250 | 570 | 1300 | 830 | 414 | 53 | 4200r. |
| TR-0.35 boat st 2.0mm | 350 | 700 | 1430 | 930 | 445 | 75 | 4750r. |
| TR-0.5 boat st 2.0mm | 500 | 1200 | 1600 | 1030 | 500 | 93,9 | 7000r. |
| TR-0.5 scoop st 2.0mm | 500 | 1250 | 1610 | 1100 | 590 | 80 | 8000r. |
| TR-1.0 scoop st 2.0mm | 1000 | 2500 | 2240 | 1120 | 760 | 130 | 13000r. |
| TR-1.5 scoop st 2.0mm | 1500 | 3750 | 2240 | 1320 | 1010 | 180 | 16800r. |
| TR-2.0 scoop st 2.0mm | 2000 | 5000 | 2240 | 1620 | 1010 | 195 | 19600r. |
| * YAR can be assembled into a garland up to 5 pieces, reinforced eyes (circle d=20) | |||||||
| TR-0.25 boat st 2.5mm | 250 | 630 | 1310 | 670 | 600 | 50 | negotiable |
| TR-0.35 boat st 2.5mm | 350 | 880 | 1570 | 780 | 600 | 60 | negotiable |
| TR-0.5 boat st 2.5mm | 500 | 1250 | 1610 | 850 | 730 | 95 | negotiable |
| TR-1.0 scoop st 2.5mm | 1000 | 2500 | 2080 | 1150 | 820 | 150 | negotiable |
| TR-1.5 scoop st 2.5mm | 1500 | 3750 | 2700 | 1250 | 820 | 220 | negotiable |
| TR-2.0 scoop st 2.5 mm | 2000 | 5000 | 2700 | 1350 | 950 | 255 | negotiable |
| TR-3.0 scoop st 3.0mm | 3000 | 7500 | 3250 | 1650 | 950 | 345 | negotiable |
| TR-0,25 boat WINTER | 250 | 630 | 1570 | 780 | 600 | 100 | |
| BP-1.0 with platform for vibrator | 1000 | 2500 | 3170 | 1270 | 720 | 310 | negotiable |
| BP-1.6 with platform for vibrator | 1600 | 4000 | 3100 | 1270 | 1200 | 375 | negotiable |
| BP-2.0 with platform for vibrator | 2000 | 5000 | 3640 | 1270 | 1340 | 395 | negotiable |
| BP-3.0 with platform for vibrator | 2500 | 6250 | 4000 | 2100 | 1140 | 825 | negotiable |
| BPU-3.0 universal | 3000 | 7500 | 3200 | 2100 | 2100 | 825 | negotiable |
| At the request of the customer, two types of gates are available: one-jaw (gate) and two-jaw (grab) | |||||||
| BN/1500-0.5 tray | 500 | 1250 | 1600 | 1600 | 1270 | 170 | negotiable |
| BN/1500-0.75 tray | 750 | 1880 | 1600 | 1600 | 1680 | 200 | negotiable |
| BN/1500 -1.0 tray | 1000 | 2500 | 1600 | 1600 | 1750 | 220 | negotiable |
| BN-1.0-Pyramid | 1000 | 2500 | 1600 | 1600 | 1660 | 200 | negotiable |
| BN/1500-1.5 tray | 1500 | 3750 | 1600 | 1600 | 2040 | 300 | negotiable |
| BN/1500 -2.0 tray | 2000 | 5000 | 1600 | 1600 | 2450 | 330 | negotiable |
| BN/1500-3.0 | 3000 | 7500 | 1600 | 1600 | 2850 | 380 | negotiable |
| It is possible to install trays (for unloading concrete) and cradles (platforms) for the operator, on any of the sides. | |||||||
| It is possible to manufacture a bucket for transportation by a front loader to the place of concrete laying. | |||||||
Accessories for buckets of the series "BN - 0.5 / 1.0 / 1.5 / 2.0" |
|||||||
| BN-0.5; 1.0 | BN-1.5; 2.0 | ||||||
| length mm | price | length mm | price | ||||
| Cradle | eat/stats | 9 600 rub. | 12 000 rub. | ||||
| Funnel D-200 | 1 260 rub. | 1 380 rub. | |||||
| Sleeve D-200 | 2000 | on order | 2000 | on order | |||
| tray trough | 1250 | 1 800 rub. | 1500 | 1 920 rub. | |||
| tray cone | 1250 | 1 800 rub. | 1500 | 1 920 rub. | |||
| The tray is extended. | 1500 | 2 040 rub. | 1800 | 2 160 rub. |
A container for concrete, which is also called a bucket, is a special collection for the mixture.
It is designed for storage and transportation of concrete, and depending on the purpose for which it is intended.
A container for concrete, which is also called a bucket, is a special collection for the mixture. It is intended for storage and transportation of concrete, and depending on the purpose for which it is intended, such containers can be made in the form of:
· A trough (boat or ladle) is a container in the form of a box, which is made of steel up to 2.5 mm thick. Such a bucket can be attached to a faucet using special welded loops.
· Glasses - a container in the shape of a cone, sometimes with an attached cylindrical cell, which is equipped with a support in the form of a ring. It is possible to transport cement in such a bucket only in a vertical position, and in order to carry out the procedure for unloading or supplying concrete, the container must additionally be equipped with a special tray.
Shoes - a container in the form of a rectangular box, which has a hole to release the mixture at the right time and a damper to prevent this in other cases.
Such bucket for concrete can be loaded in a horizontal position from the mixer, and then in a vertical position it is transported to the construction site.
The shoe-shaped container can be unloaded even without the use of vibrators, but in order to clean the tub, it is still worth using a vibrator. For this purpose, the design even provides a special platform.
Load capacity: 500kg.
Regardless of the form of construction in modern construction buckets are indispensable equipment when working with concrete. Today they are the most the best option how the cement slurry can be received, stored or conveniently transported.
A fairly easy-to-manage design allows you to achieve the highest equipment efficiency.
And the materials from which containers for cement are made make it possible to make such equipment durable, not affected by negative factors external environment.
Depending on the needs of the construction, our specialists will help you choose the most suitable forms of containers that will be convenient and productive to use when performing the tasks. Accordingly, depending on the configuration and availability of additional devices, the cost of construction equipment may vary.
We can also offer you to buy a construction concrete vibrator.
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Source: http://www.megass.ru/tara-dlya-betona-rastvora.html
When building small objects: garage, cellar or gazebo, ready solution buying is not worth it.
You don’t use it all at once, since pouring the foundation, erecting walls and other types of work must be done at a certain interval.
Therefore, it is advisable to mix the concrete with your own hands as necessary, in small portions which can be put into action immediately. To make the material particularly durable, do not forget to moisten it for 7-10 days after laying.
If we are not talking about special grades of concrete, it will only take a few constituent parts and a minimum of tools for cooking:
The quality of the solution depends on the accuracy of the proportions, the purity of the materials and the thoroughness of their mixing.
Clay should not be present in sand and gravel, which impairs the characteristics of the finished filling, its resistance to moisture and cold.
If these fillers are kept under open sky, they must be covered with something from falling leaves and other debris. Avoid getting into the solution of particles of synthetic materials and dust.
Water for mixing the solution can be used both drinking and technical, collect it from the tap, in a well or in a river. But salty water or containing foreign inclusions can significantly affect the quality of concrete.
In addition, if it is reinforced, excess salt in the water will lead to corrosion of the metal.
Particles of clay, silt, algae, fuel oil or an overestimated concentration of any chemical compound also significantly affect the quality of the final product.
The allowable size of pieces of crushed stone is in the range from 5 to 150 mm. It is best to use a fine filler, no more than 20 mm. The size of the larger stone should not exceed one third of the thickness of the concrete layer.
In the manufacture of concrete, other types of filler can be used instead of crushed stone or gravel. These are coal slags, expanded clay, artificial crushed stone. But their use will lead to a decrease in the durability of the structure.
For creating decorative species concrete is added to the solution small particles glass or marble chips, sprinkled with colored cement.
To prepare a good solution, it is advisable to purchase cement grade M400 or M500. For small buildings, the M300 brand is enough.
But this material “gets old” quite quickly, losing its declared properties, so you don’t need to buy it for future use. When pouring the foundation for a heavy object, only coarse-grained sand is added to the solution.
But it is quite expensive, so for small buildings it is acceptable to use a mixture of coarse and fine sand.
To prepare about 100 liters of concrete, you need to mix 30 kg of cement (3 buckets), 70 kg of sand (5 buckets), 100 kg of crushed stone (about 8 buckets). Water will take from 16 to 23 liters, depending on the moisture content of the fillers used. For kneading, you can take an old galvanized trough or prepare a wooden shield about 3 m long and 1.4 m wide, upholstered with roofing iron.
Sand is first poured into the container, then cement, after which these ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If there is no construction mixer at hand, you can use a regular shovel. Water is gradually added to the mixture, and each time thereafter it is stirred again. Excess moisture can reduce the strength of future concrete.
The procedure is repeated until a plastic mass of a homogeneous consistency is obtained.
Crushed stone is poured into the prepared mass and everything is mixed again. In terms of density, the concrete solution should resemble good homemade sour cream. If it turns out to be too liquid, a little cement should be added, but not filler. In order to quickly prepare concrete with your own hands, it is better to mix from both sides at the same time, and for large volumes, do it with four people.
If you have your own concrete mixer, or if you can borrow one from somewhere, the mixing process will be much easier. The components are used in the same proportions. The order in which they are loaded into the machine is great importance. First you need to make sure that the concrete mixer is empty, then pour water into it.
Next, half of the prepared cement is added, all the crushed stone, the remains of the cement, and then the sand is gradually poured. It is desirable to place the capacity of the concrete mixer at a slight angle to the horizontal surface. To obtain a mixture without lumps, rotate the solution for 2 to 3 minutes.
You should not get carried away with the process, since when rotating for more than 3 minutes, concrete delamination may begin.
The article is based on information taken from the site http://Stroybesedku.ru
