Manufactured hair perm products must meet the following requirements:

1. hair retains its curl for at least 3 months, even if cut;

2. hair does not change its original color;

3. the drug is easily washed off from the hair warm water;

4. the product contains surfactants (surfactants) that provide good wetting and impregnation of the hair;

5. the drug has neither an allergic nor an irritating effect on the skin, and its vapors have no effect on the mucous membrane;

6. The drug has a perfume smell (not strong).

The basis of almost all currently produced hair perm preparations are organothio compounds and their derivatives. Most recipes for foreign preparations for perms contain thioglycolic acid, which has restorative properties. Compounds belonging to the organothio group make it possible to influence the shape of the hair even with normal temperature human body. This, obviously, can explain the fact that organothio compounds are included in almost all preparations for perm. Significant disadvantages of these compounds include:

1) sharp bad smell due to the release of hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan in air;

2) toxicity, causing painful phenomena - headaches, general malaise, decrease in the content of white blood cells, etc.

When studying the effect of a solution of thioglycolic acid on the human body when used in hairdressing, cases of diseases were noted in persons preparing solutions of thioglycolic acid: a decrease in the content of white blood cells and the number of platelets, headaches, general weakness and malaise, gastrointestinal disorders, kidney function. In addition, when working with solutions of thioglycolic acid, skin diseases were also observed: redness, itching, eczema, urticaria and nail damage. Such diseases can occur both in hairdressers and in people who independently use such compositions.

As protective equipment for hairdressers, various bactericidal ointments, biological protective preparations, coating of nails with varnish, reducing the time of contact with harmful solutions and the use of gauze masks when working are recommended. It is not recommended to neglect protective equipment. Their skillful and correct use largely protects the hairdresser from direct contact with harmful compounds and their vapors. So, when winding hair onto bobbins, you should use rubber gloves. Having acquired the skill of working with gloves, you can perform this operation at the same speed as without them.

For chemical hair perming, hairdressing salons use the following preparations: “Londa” and “Mintox”, “Lokon” and “Zavitol”.

In terms of the chemical composition and degree of effect on hair, “Londa” is close to “Lokon”, and “Zavitol” is close to “Mintox”. The similarity between the preparations “Londa” and “Lokon” is explained by the fact that they are prepared on the same basis. The percentage of the main component - thioglycolic acid - in the preparations "Londa" and "Lokon" is about 6.5%.

Currently, the Vella company has released a new preparation for perm, which is very popular, since the process of winding onto bobbins does not require gloves to protect hands from chemical composition. IN in this case The time for winding on bobbins is reduced. The composition of the drug "Vella" includes:

Perm liquid - 100 ml (1);

Liquid for fixation - 100 ml (2);

Plastic cap:

Instructions.

Depending on the length of the hair, the contents of the bottle are enough for 1-2 applications.

Washing and curling hair

1. Wash your hair with a mild shampoo without massaging the scalp.

2. Use a towel to squeeze out excess water.

3. Curl your hair. The hair should not be treated with a perm solution before wrapping it with bobbins.

4. Select the bobbin winding system according to the haircut style.

5. Wear gloves to apply the solution.

6. Apply cream to the forehead, temples and neck along the hairline.

7. Roll the gauze into a rope and tie it around your head to protect the skin from the flowing solution.

8. After winding the hair onto the bobbins, thoroughly moisten each bobbin with the solution, starting from the neck. The solution should be applied with a sponge in small doses to avoid getting excess on the skin. If the solution gets on your skin, rinse it immediately with a cotton swab and water.

Technological data on the use of drugs for perming hair of various structures

Do not exceed the specified action time, otherwise you can significantly damage the hair structure.

The strength of a perm depends on:

The selected perm preparation;

The size of the bobbins (large bobbins - a light curl, small bobbins - a steep curl);

Hair conditions;

Duration of action of the composition for perm on hair.

Rinsing

After the action time has expired, rinse the hair wound onto the bobbins thoroughly with warm water for 2 minutes (without removing the bobbins and gloves).

Fixation

1. Use a towel to dry your hair.

2. Pour 100 ml of foam fixative into a bowl, foam the composition with a clean sponge and apply the fixative evenly to all bobbins.

3. Leave the fixer for 7-10 minutes.

4. Carefully remove all the bobbins, starting from the lower occipital area, apply the remaining fixative to the hair and leave it on the hair for another 5 minutes.

5. Rinse hair thoroughly with running water.

Details

Modern types of perm

Women strive throughout their lives to create, change and improve their style. Perm is one of the ways to try yourself in new role. Playful curls are a dream for those with straight hair.

The perm is designed to transform straight hair into bouncy and curly locks. It was very popular in the 70s of the last century, in particular because fashion trends. Then women all over the USSR tried to turn their hair into a shock of springs, without thinking whether it would suit them or not.

Today, this procedure has become not only more gentle, but also more deliberate. Women don't wait in line at beauty salons to ruin their hair with acid and become like poodles. Modern perm has become more aesthetically pleasing, and the materials used for it have become of higher quality.

Who is contraindicated for

Reagents, affecting the hair and scalp, can affect well-being and general condition. To avoid unpleasant consequences, chemistry should not be done:

• pregnant women and nursing mothers;
• taking hormonal drugs;
• for allergy sufferers;
• who dyed their hair less than two weeks ago.

On my own behalf, I can add that ladies with thin and brittle hair should in every possible way avoid any chemical effects on their precious hair. Curling, straightening and even dyeing can completely ruin already damaged curls.

Types of perm

May be carried out different ways, depending on the reagents in the composition of the product.

Acidic

(Cost: 3000-4000 rub.)

This the oldest way curling, which came from the distant 60-70s, but improved for greater safety. Today, the preparations contain much less thioglycolic acid, which allows it to cause less damage to the hair.

Advantage acid chemistry is that the reagent does not damage the hair cortex, affecting only the internal structure. It stays on your hair for up to 6 months and allows you to choose any type and size of curls.

Minus The problem is that you won’t be able to get rid of such curls ahead of time, since the effect of the acid goes away entirely on its own.

This kind not suitable for those with thin and brittle hair or dry scalp. The chemical may be harmful to the skin. But for dense and hard strands it is preferable.

Many people produce compositions for it. well-known companies. For example, the Joico company offers the K-Pak Waves line with a reconstructive base, care and permanent in one package.

Alkaline

(Price: 1500-2000 rub.)

Alkaline perm lasts on the hair for three months, sometimes less. Its advantage is that the curls are as natural looking as possible. The effect of alkali is reduced to damage to the cortex and destruction of the gray bridges of the hair, which leads to the formation of elastic curls.

This type of chemistry is more gentle than the previous one, but not recommended for those with coarse and heavy hair. This chemistry will not last long on them. Another advantage of this method is its low cost.

To carry out the procedure, it is better to use formulations from Eugene Perma. This is a French company that offers four types of products with different strengths on the hair. One of them is Attentive - a standard composition. Creates bouncy, moving curls. Bio-extender Marin is a product for creating feminine, well-groomed curls with algae extract. Toniform is a slightly alkaline composition for creating soft curls.

Amino acid

(Cost: 2000-5000 rub.)

Amino acid curling products contain proteins and amino acids that nourish the hair while turning it into a natural curl. It can be used on damaged strands.

Advantage this method in its positive effect on hair. After two or three sessions of the procedure, you get soft and restored hair.

Minus amino acid chemistry in its fragility. The curls last a maximum of two months. On long hair It won’t be possible to do it, their weight will straighten the curls. This method has no disadvantages, but only ladies with thin or short hair can use it.

One of the varieties of amino acid chemistry is Japanese, code-named “silk wave”. With its help you can soothe fluffy, severely damaged hair and restore its structure.

The Italian company SHOT produces products that are successfully used in beauty salons by professional stylists.

Neutral

(Price: 4000-7000 rub.)

Neutral chemistry is an alternative to the previous one. Suitable for any hair type, lasts up to six months in rare cases. The standard period is 3 months. The products do not contain aggressive substances, so every young lady can use such chemicals.

Minus This method is that for hair care you will need to use special means With zero level ph. Otherwise, your curls may lose their look before you have a chance to enjoy them enough.

The French company Eugene Perma offers permanent Volubilis with a neutral pH level. Goldwell also offers Evolution neutral curling products.

Bubble

It's more of a method of applying the composition. The mixture is placed in a mixer and whipped until foam forms, after which it is applied to hair curled in curlers. The head is covered with plastic wrap or a cap. This method is suitable for those with oily hair. The French discovered twenty years ago that bubble chemistry shrinks pores on the surface of the scalp and prevents the secretion of sebum. The price of such chemicals depends on the chosen composition: acidic, alkaline, bio.

Biological

(Price: 2000-6000 rub.)

It is generally considered to be the most gentle. The mixture contains natural ingredients, so the hair remains as healthy as it was originally.

The technology was first used by Italian stylists. Today, compositions for biological perming consist of more than two-thirds of a protein related to hair protein - cysteine. This ensures reliable fixation of natural curls, shine and a restorative effect.

Validity period is up to six months. At the same time, you get long-lasting, bouncy curls.

The Kemon company offers a series of bio-curling products containing nourishing ingredients for hair. The series includes Figure, Multiform, Ond'Erbe and Unamy Texture products. Paul Mitchell offers a whole series of bio-curling products. Each product creates a specific type of curl.

The chemistry may also differ in the methods of applying the composition and the type of hair curled in curlers. The cost of the work also varies depending on its method.

Price for perm

Today, all types of perms are combined with biological ones. You can find biological alkaline perm or biological acid perm, but in pure form Neither method is used anymore. The price of a perm depends largely on the length of the hair.

Minimum cost per short hair- 2000 rubles, the maximum price can reach five figures, up to 14,000 rubles for long curls using corrugation or to create African curls.

Curling products

The undisputed leader in the hair cosmetics market remains the German giant Schwarzkopf. The only company that is actively fighting it is Wella. L'Oreal can compete with its two sisters in arms.

These dinosaurs of the cosmetics business have put their hands into research laboratories and can afford to produce products for every taste and whim.

For biological perm, products from Estel, Paul Mitchell and Moss are also used. The funds of these companies are more expensive, but they offer the same quality as the three named major players.

In any case, it is better to do chemistry in a salon. Curling your hair with curlers yourself in front of the bathroom mirror cannot be compared with the risk of using chemical reagents.

Stylists in beauty salons know what shampoos and masks should be used, and can advise professional cosmetics stores and where these same products can be purchased. Many masters are ready to sell you products from their personal supplies and sometimes cheaper than in the named stores.

Create your image without risk and stay beautiful!

Preparations for cold permanent. Currently, almost all chemical permanent preparations are made on the basis of organothio compounds or their derivatives. Such drugs allow you to change the structure of the hair at a person’s body temperature. Modern manufacturers Today they produce compositions that differ in their pH value.

Acidic preparations for perm they have a pH value of 5 - 7, which is close to that of skin or hair.

Alkaline preparations for perm they have a pH value of 8.5 - 9.5 and are the most commonly used. They give a stable, elastic and long-lasting (can last up to 6 months or even more) curl. The main component is thioglycolic acid, the content of which is 6.5%. In addition, the solution may include the following components:

• ammonia;
• crystalline borax;
• methenamine, which limits hair swelling;
• oleic alcohol as an emulsifier;
• foaming components;
• methylcellulose;
• water as the main solvent;
• fragrances;
• various biological additives that ensure the safety of hair when exposed to chemically aggressive environments.

Various manufacturing companies produce cold permanent formulations of varying concentrations and consistencies (liquid or gel). In addition, each company has its own biologically active additives, which provide healthy shine to hair after chemical exposure, the ability to care for and preserve the color of previously dyed hair. In addition, it is known that the root part of the hair and its tip have different textures. The root is denser, the end of the hair is loose, the scales are raised, and the hair may have a cross-section. Modern drugs contain so-called care sensors, which are layered on the tip of the hair, providing care and less change in shape; the root part changes shape to a greater extent. Thus, along the entire length, the hair becomes not only well-groomed, but also has a uniform curl.

The disadvantage of alkaline permanent is the release of hydrogen sulfide vapor, which can cause headache, malaise, dermatitis or various types of allergic reactions.

To fix the curl during alkaline perm, hydrogen peroxide is used, the concentration of which in the solution should not exceed 3%. Modern fixer is an emulsion based on hydrogen peroxide. Available in concentrated form, for use it must be diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio.

Acid-balanced preparations used on weak and heavily colored hair. The main component of the curling solution is a mixture of esters based on mercaptocarboxylic acid amide with a pH of 4.0 -6.5.

An important advantage of acid perm is the lack of swelling of the hair. In addition, hair is provided with care by compacting its structure. In addition, hair after permanent treatment is less hygroscopic.

Curling hair requires stronger tension, since it is not the softening of the keratin that occurs, but the displacement of sulfur bridges due to physical impact. In addition, curling requires more time, since the composition needs to act on the hair longer to obtain a curl.

Physico-chemical processes, occurring in the hair during perm. If you look at a cut of hair, you will notice that straight hair has round shape, and curly - oval. In order for round hair to acquire an oval shape, it is affected in two ways - physical and chemical. Not only the choice of product, but also the distance between each curl has a huge impact on the curl of hair.

Let's remember the structure of hair. The outer layer - the cuticle - consists of 8-9 layers of scales. The middle layer - the cortex - has pigment and keratin chains. They are the ones who determine the strength of the hair and its structure. Figuratively speaking, the chains are located parallel to each other and connected by three types of connections. Hydrogen bonds are easily broken by water and, when moisturized, allow you to get a short curl when twisting on curlers or twisting your hair while blow-drying. In this case, the keratin bonds shift, but do not break, the styling retains its shape either until the next wash or for a shorter time (repeated combing and moisture weaken the elasticity of the curls). Salt bonds are destroyed in an alkaline environment and the hair swells. Finally, sulfur (cystine) bonds are broken down by chemical action.

Figure 7.1 schematically shows the physical and chemical processes occurring in the hair during perm.

Rice. 7.1. Physico-chemical processes in hair during perm:
a - straight hair; b - hair twisted onto bobbins - with physical impact (tension of the hair), the keratin bonds are displaced; c - shows the breakage of sulfur bridges under the influence chemical preparation- the hair swells and the cystine bond turns into an unstable cysteine ​​bond; d - restoration of sulfur bridges in a new arbitrary position

Under the influence of tension, the keratin chains move randomly in relation to each other. The hair takes the desired shape. The breakdown of sulfur bonds should be about 30%, then the hair becomes stringy. If a drug of strong concentration is used or the exposure time is long, then the hair becomes weak and does not hold its shape well, since the newly formed (still unstable) sulfur bonds may break again and do not have time to form new ones after the cessation of exposure. If a composition of low concentration is used, then an insufficient number of sulfur chains will break, which will not give the desired curl shape. The same will happen if the exposure time is reduced.

In Fig. Figure 7.1d shows the restoration of sulfur bridges in a new, arbitrary position. But, as already mentioned, this connection is unstable. In order for cysteine ​​to turn back into cystine, the bond must be secured. For this purpose, a fixer is used, which is a solution based on 3% hydrogen peroxide.

Oxidation caused by the fixer releases oxygen, which penetrates the hair structure and combines with hydrogen to form water. Therefore, sometimes the process of exposure to a fixer is called neutralization. But deep down the hair is still an alkaline environment. To completely neutralize it, use a hair balm or rinse, which are known to have a slightly acidic reaction. This completes the neutralization process.

The rate of change in hair shape depends on:

• on the concentration of the solution;
• hair structure;
• external temperature;
• holding time;
• bobbin diameter;
• room temperature.

In addition to all these factors, the degree of hair curl depends on:

• on the physiological state of the client;
• quality of wrapping (tension, strand pull).

Selecting a perm composition according to the hair group. It is necessary to choose preparations and curling technology depending on the structure and condition of the hair.

Hair is divided into four groups according to its structure.

1. Hard and rough, shiny, healthy. They are difficult to curl; the composition for such hair must be highly concentrated. But the curl on such hair lasts a very long time, the curl looks large and natural.
2. Healthy-looking, shiny, but thin and not as thick as the hair of the first group. They need a lower concentration of the composition.
3. Thin, weak and dull hair. Perhaps this is hair dyed with chemical dyes of the second group.
4. Hair exposed to dyes of the first group. Perhaps this is hair after repeated dyeing with dyes of the second group or after perm. Porous, dull, brittle, with split ends.

Companies that produce professional perm preparations offer them in several versions:

• for hair of the first group or for hair that is difficult to manage chemical treatment. Such a drug is designated by the letter F (Forte) from Wella and Cutrin or by the number 0 from Schwarzkopf;
• for hair of the second group, a preparation is intended, marked with the letter N (normal) from Wella and Cutrin or the number 1 from Schwarzkopf;
• a drug with the letter G (gefarbe) or the number 2 is chosen for hair of the third group, for dyed or highlighted (no more than 30%) hair. When working with such hair, you can treat it before curling. protective composition-spray that evens out the hair structure. When curling highly porous, bleached or highlighted (up to 70%) hair, the composition must be diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio;
• The Wella company produces a product for highlighted hair, marked with the letter S (straehnen). When highlighting up to 30%, the drug can be used in finished form. If the proportion of highlighted hair is from 30 to 70% or dyed hair with highlights, the drug must be diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. Treatment of hair with a protective composition is mandatory;
• Domestic preparations such as “Lokon” are designed for use on healthy hair.