When installing a cast iron bathtub, you usually don't have to worry about accidentally moving it. But how to strengthen steel bath so that she stands still, and is it even possible to do this? It is not easy to achieve complete immobility of a flexible and light container, but it is quite possible, and with your own hands. In this article we will talk about several methods of strengthening the bathtub, which can be used either individually or in combination.
To figure out how to immobilize a bathtub, you need to familiarize yourself with its structure.
Most often, the bathtub itself does not have elements for fastening the legs. This has its pros and cons. The disadvantage is the lack of a sufficiently rigid fixation of the bowl. If the bathtub has elements for rigidly fastening the legs, then under the weight of an adult, the steel bowl made of thin metal will bend, and the fastening can damage the enamel.
The manufacturer equips the bathtub with legs, the quality of which leaves much to be desired, or their design is not conducive to securely fixing the bathtub. Is not hopeless situation, since you can purchase universal legs on a self-adhesive base.
This is just one of the measures that will somewhat improve the stability of the bathtub, and it can only be considered as the only one if the bathtub stands on its own legs.
If you plan to install this plumbing fixture in another way, for example on bricks, then legs will not be needed.
If the bathtub is installed separately, you can make a frame from a profile for it or install it on bricks, only then you will need to sheathe the bathtub on all sides. As a rule, such decisions are not made when creating original design large bathroom.
The most common option for fixing a steel bowl is to attach it to the floor and walls. This can be made more convenient when the bath is installed between three walls. We will look at several current ways to secure this plumbing fixture:
Considering high level humidity in the bathroom and the considerable weight of the container filled with water, the use of durable and moisture-resistant brick will practical approach to resolving the issue of reliable installation of the bathtub. You will need a minimum of tools - a trowel and a container for mixing the solution.
So that you don’t have to redo anything later, you should follow a certain procedure.
If the bathtub is long, then you should lay out another brick support in the middle of the tank.
If the bathtub is the same length as the width of the room, then to secure it, you can make supports from bricks, and then install the bowl on them. Often used combined method- both the bed and supports are made.
Instead of making brick supports, you can attach 2, or better yet 3 corners to the wall, and install the bath on them. This method is acceptable only if the walls are made of brick or similar durable material.
You can go the other way, leaving the legs intact and covering the bathtub with brick. Then you need to take care of making an inspection window through which you can get to the siphon. Due to the fact that the steel bowl expands upward, in those places where a whole brick will not fit, it will need to be cut off. Moreover, in such a way that when tiling it does not protrude beyond the edge of the side of the steel product.
Making a frame from wall profile for drywall is carried out within a few hours and will help not only sheathe, but also strengthen an already installed bathtub.
The wall profile is not a durable material, but it will successfully serve as a support for a metal container mounted on legs.
You can fix the bathtub more securely by attaching it to the wall. For this purpose, manufacturers produce a wide variety of fasteners. If the sanitary ware stands securely on legs, then it is enough to attach it to the wall. No matter how the bathtub is installed, it never hurts to secure it further.
One of the options for reliable fixation of a metal bowl is to make a podium for it from brick, foam blocks, timber, profile pipe, metal corner or others building materials.
A multi-level podium in a small bathroom will be inappropriate and uncomfortable. If the dimensions of the room allow, then such a podium will not only be a reliable basis for a steel bowl, but also an original addition to the intended design.
Brick is more durable, but in houses old building it cannot always be used due to its small bearing capacity interfloor ceilings. The same applies to the frame made of ceramic concrete. Foam blocks and timber are much lighter, but can collapse under the influence of moisture, however, if you follow the recommendations outlined in the article, using the listed building materials you can make a reliable frame for a steel bathtub.
A one-level podium should be such that the bathtub fits into it and its edges rest against the walls. The installation height is determined by the ease of use of the product. When using foam blocks, they must be treated with moisture-resistant compounds that will prevent the destruction of the material and prevent fungus from developing.
When using timber, it must be treated with antifungal impregnation, and twice: the timber is treated once (or twice), and then the entire structure, especially the saw cuts. If the podium is much wider than the bathtub, then thick moisture-resistant plywood is fixed on top, and a hole is cut in it for the bowl.
When assembling the frame, only stainless steel screws should be used. The structure should be strong, but it is better to calculate the installation of the bath in such a way that when immersed in the podium, it rests its legs on the floor or on stands specially made for this case.
The podium can be made from a corner or profile pipes. It will be very durable and not heavy. The disadvantage of this design is the fact that all parts must be welded to assemble it. In an apartment it is not always possible to use welding machine, and a structure welded outside may not be able to be brought into the bathroom. Here you need to look at the circumstances. Usually, problems do not arise when making a metal frame for installing a bathtub in it.
If the choice is made on a metal product, then finished design should be degreased, primed and painted. If possible, the frame should be attached to the wall - this will prevent it from accidentally moving. Only after these steps can you begin installing the bathtub and covering it with plywood.
A lot of free space in the room is occupied by a two-level podium, but if you make niches in it, you can store toiletries there.
The article lists the main ways to secure a metal container, but in the comments you can tell us about your methods and nuances that you have encountered.
Watch installation video steel bath adjacent to two walls:
Installing modern plumbing is complex, labor-intensive process, which requires expensive tools, experience and knowledge of a professional craftsman. However, homeowners often want to save money and install acrylic with their own hands.
It is very difficult to do this correctly, because some models are heavy and large, so you have to connect them almost by touch. In addition, for quality installation special legs are required to distribute the weight of the bowl and raise it to the required height. In this article we will tell you how bathtubs with legs are installed, as well as what fastenings they are equipped with.
Clawfoot bathtubs are fairly common plumbing fixtures that can be made from any material. Special supports used to install a container for washing with your own hands. They are supplied complete with each hot tub model, as they are calculated and designed in accordance with its shape and weight. Distinguish the following types clawfoot bathtubs:
Note! To properly install a cast iron or acrylic container for washing with your own hands, it is better to use standard legs, as they are optimally suited to the shape and load-bearing capacity of the selected model. In the absence of “native” supports, use universal ones, which are suitable for most bathtubs.
There are many ways to mount a cast iron or acrylic wash basin without using supports. Brick is used for this metal carcass or foam blocks. But installing a clawfoot bathtub is the simplest and most convenient option for those who want to do the work themselves. When installed correctly, the legs perform 3 important functions: weight distribution, leveling the bottom and raising the bowl to the required height. The supports are secured using the following methods:
The design and method of fastening the supports is determined by the characteristics of the bath. An acrylic hot tub, which is light in weight, is placed on a frame, the legs of which perform only an auxiliary function, and cast iron models are mounted only on high-quality supports designed to withstand significant loads.
To facilitate the installation process, you need to take care in advance of the tools and materials that will be useful in the work. Do not forget that the installation of the washing container on the supports is carried out simultaneously with the connection to the sewer system. To install the font with your own hands you will need:
Please note that the process of installing an acrylic washing container will be very different from cast iron or steel, because models from various materials have different characteristics. Apart from the heavy weight, it is easiest to install cast iron products with your own hands, as they are highly stable.
The process of installing supports for cast iron, acrylic and steel bathtubs is different, but is carried out according to a general algorithm. As a rule, it consists of 3 stages: connecting the drain, fixing the legs and leveling the bathtub. The service life, convenience and safety of using plumbing equipment depend on the quality of installation of supports, so this process requires a serious approach. Experienced craftsmen bathtubs are placed on legs using the following technology:
Important! After graduation installation work you need to use silicone sealant to prevent leaks or moisture from entering this gap. If the gap in that place is more than 1 cm, it is eliminated using a moisture-resistant solution.
In addition to the support legs, which perform a strictly utilitarian function, there are decorative ones. They are made of plastic, plaster, stone and metal. Decorative overlays used to disguise or embellish unpresentable support structures. These elements do not perform load-bearing function, therefore they are purchased and installed separately.
Decorative overlays for supports usually take the form of paws, vines or mythical characters or animals. To fix them with your own hands, you need to follow simple instructions:
Note! Decorative overlays perform only an aesthetic function, therefore they cannot withstand even light weight acrylic models. Therefore, they are fixed to the bottom or main supports using glue.
Let's take a step-by-step look at installing a steel bathtub. Let's securely fasten it to the legs, learn about installation tricks that increase the service life and performance of plumbing fixtures, and make a niche for the bathtub from moisture-resistant plasterboard and a Knauf metal profile.
A steel rectangular bathtub from the Spanish company Roca of the Contesa series with dimensions of 1700x700x400 mm was chosen for installation. The bath volume is 185 l, and the steel thickness is 2.4 mm. The main advantage of a steel bath is its lightness. The presented plumbing weighs 29 kg, so one person can easily install it. But installing a cast iron bathtub alone will not be easy. Its minimum weight is 80 kg and varies up to 180 kg. You will have to involve an assistant or even a team.
Installing a bathtub begins with attaching the legs. To avoid damage flooring, put something soft under the bath. You don’t have to remove the factory cardboard for now; it’s a reliable backing against scratches. Turning the bath over. Self-adhesive structures, as in our case, which follow the contour of the bottom, are considered good legs for mounting. They have height adjustment, preventing distortions and unevenness of the floor. To install a bathtub with legs, first try on U-shaped supports. After marking, degrease the surface with alcohol, ensuring reliable adhesion. We attach the structures using double-sided tape. We fix the supports exactly on both sides of the bath, avoiding distortion. Bolt-on legs are also available, but we do not recommend using them. They may not withstand the uneven load on the bath and damage the enamel.
The legs are supplied with long adjusting pins. They must be inserted all the way into the plastic tips. We do this smoothly, making sure that it doesn’t break threaded connection. Adjust the stud using a rubber hammer.
Let's start installing the studs. First screw the nuts to the plastic ends and screw the pin into the designated hole on the support. It is this detail that allows us to adjust the bathtub in height and horizon.
After installing the legs, turn the bathtub over. We install a drainage system. Let's unpack it and study the instructions. We start the assembly with the bottom drain.
We install the drain socket into the technological hole under the bottom of the bathtub. This element consists of two parts - a tube with a funnel-shaped expansion and a cup-shaped chrome detail, which prevents large debris from entering the drain system. During installation, the main thing is not to forget to put all the gaskets, and if you are not sure of their quality, use additional silicone for a reliable seal.
Let's move on to connecting the overflow. This element is represented by a tube, one end of which is installed in top hole under the side of the bathtub, and the second - to the bottom drain, leading to the sewer. When purchasing a kit, select a corrugated overflow tube. It is easy to install, has a larger outer diameter clearance than a rigid tube, which means the likelihood of water overflowing is minimal.
The modern market offers two drainage systems for bathtubs. A well-known set with a plug on a chain and an automatic stopper. In the second option, opening (closing) occurs using a mechanism that is mounted on the overflow, like ours. In this case, there is no need to bend down and pull out the plug; just turn the lever.
This is what the final installation looks like drain system.
We calculate the height at which the bath will be installed. Correct measurement will provide not only a good fit with the facing tiles and plumbing supply, but will also allow the installation of a siphon with a deeper elbow. The likelihood of foreign odors leaking out in this case is minimal. Additional lift baths of only 5 cm will also eliminate the accumulation of hair and debris in the siphon and metal mesh drain.
To strengthen the bathtub against the wall, install a stop, the main thing is that it is stable. We used metallic profile Knauf company.
We fasten the profile using dowel screws, choose the pitch yourself. It is advisable to install fasteners as often as possible.
This is what the metal stop looks like after attaching it to the dowel screws.
We return the bathtub and put it in place. Since the drain hole in the wall is high and the legs are not long enough, you will have to install the bathtub on bricks to level it out. In addition, the metal legs are not strong enough and heavy, and can easily become twisted under the weight of the body or water. Beauty is not the main thing here, since in the future you will cover the niche under the bathtub with plasterboard and tile it. When marking the brick, do not forget to leave enough space at the siphon so that you have easy access. We lay bricks using cement-sand mortar.
Draw a line against the wall and move the bathtub away. We apply silicone sealant onto the screwed profile, and below the marked line. After applying the silicone, we put the bathtub in its original place.
We level the bath evenly using the adjusting bolts.
We seal the joints between the bathtub and the wall with silicone sealant.
To firmly fix the legs and prevent slipping, we strengthen them with brick fragments and seal the joints cement mortar. The legs should be sealed especially firmly when installing a heavy cast iron bathtub.
After we have pulled the back corner of the bathtub and securely attached it to the wall, we attach a file at the ends for rigidity and set it on tile adhesive.
When the silicone sealant and glue have dried, we proceed to connecting the siphon to the sewer drain.
The connection will be made using a rigid structure. To install the system, we use corners at 45°C. Unlike a corrugated tube, such a system is easier to operate and clean. If a blockage occurs, it is enough to open the shut-off valve and clean the drain.
This is what the system should look like after connecting the hard siphon to the sewer.
We install the bottom drain plug and the rotary lever to open and close the side drain.
To check the quality of the installation of the drainage system, open the tap and fill the bath with water. When the plug is closed, there is no leakage - the upper neck is assembled correctly.
When the bath is half full, open the plug and check all other connections for the possibility of leaks.
Everything is dry, you can use the bathroom. If leaks are observed, most likely you have not tightened the nuts tightly, a misalignment has occurred, or the adapters have not been fixed tightly enough. Tighten the nuts and point the structure in the desired direction.
Despite the advantages, a steel bathtub has two main disadvantages: the water in it cools quickly and it creates increased noise when drawing water. A budget option eliminate these problems - blowing polyurethane foam. Installation of acrylic and cast iron bathtubs does not require this procedure. These materials have good noise insulation and low thermal conductivity. However, if you want to improve them quality characteristics, no one forbids you to blow off such baths. It is better to apply polyurethane foam on a damp surface than on a dry one. in small areas. Leave a small gap around the technological holes, about 2 cm. Excess foam can be easily removed with a sharp blade.
Let's start assembling the frame from the ceiling profile. Here you again use the Knauf profile. We start by marking the depth and width of the niche. We mount the guides to the floor and secure them with dowel nails. We install the profile on the sides, deepening it into the niche to the thickness of the drywall sheets and tiles with glue. Together, this distance will be approximately 22–24 mm, taking into account that the thickness of the plasterboard sheet is about 12–13 mm, and the tiles with glue are 10–11 mm. It is better to take the distance with reserve. If the niche is slightly recessed, it’s not a big deal. But the bulging of the slab will look ugly. We connect the side planks wide ceiling profile, fixing them close to the side of the bathtub, foam the gaps. We fix the vertical profiles in the middle using self-tapping screws.
Let's start covering, use moisture resistant plasterboard Knauf. Standard size sheet – 3000×1200×12 mm. For a bathtub up to 170 cm long, no more than one such sheet will be required. For the inclined surface of the niche, measure a rectangle of the required length and width, cut it out and fasten it. Sew up the rest of the niche. We close the resulting space between the inclined and straight parts with plasterboard triangles cut to size. We do not pay attention to small cracks; these errors will not be visible under the tiles. After covering we make a window the right size and install a plumbing hatch. The final stage is applying glue and tiling.
The missing tiles between the bathroom and the wall have been laid, the seams have been grouted, now we proceed to the last stage of finishing - sealing the seams. We clean the seam between the bathtub and the wall and wipe everything dry. To seal, we will use white silicone, which will prevent water from leaking through the side of the bathtub.
To prevent silicone from covering the tiles and the bathtub, we glue a barrier in the form of masking tape. It will prevent sealant from getting on the cladding and plumbing.
Fill the cleaned and prepared seam with white silicone sealant.
Make the seam even, smear it carefully with your finger, plastic spatula or spatula. Wipe off excess sealant with a wet rag.
When the silicone dries slightly, carefully remove the masking tape.
After the silicone has completely hardened, the bath is ready for use.
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Hello, dear readers! In this article I will talk about how to secure a bathtub. Although modern plumbing It’s quite easy to install; blog subscribers often ask questions about installing bathtubs. Therefore, I propose to consider how ubiquitous plumbing fixtures made of metal and acrylic are attached using the example of work already completed.
Depending on the location of the bathtub, the following types of installation are distinguished:
Depending on the type of fastening elements used, the following differs:
I suggest you look at the photo report on the installation of a KaldeweiSaniformPlus steel bathtub with dimensions of 1.7 by 0.75 m. Installed product It has a standard configuration, but due to its thick walls it is heavy. The considerable weight significantly complicated installation and presented Additional requirements to the strength and stability of fasteners.
According to the instructions, the product is installed on special legs, which greatly simplifies installation. But, in order to save money, it was decided to install it on brickwork. As it turned out later, the brickwork provided better rigidity than the use of standard legs.
Don't know how to fix a steel bathtub so it doesn't wobble? Read on to find out how to do this.
So, let's start arranging the bathroom:
Attention! To successfully install a bathtub in a niche, the distance between the sides of the bowl and the wall on each side must be at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to installation.
In this case, the screen performs not only a decorative function, but, among other things, serves as an element that provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. The adjoining of the masonry to the lower part of the side along the perimeter allows you to avoid distortion of the bowl even if the lower supports are not strong enough.
So, we learned how to strengthen a steel bathtub so that it does not wobble. But once again I draw your attention to the fact that this method is relevant for metal and it is not recommended to do such masonry under an acrylic bowl.
So, we have looked at how to install metal plumbing fixtures on brickwork, now I propose to find out how to mount a bathtub to a wall.
In the photo you can see the same KaldeweiSaniformPlus bathtub with dimensions of 1.7 by 0.75 m, but this time the installation is not carried out on brickwork, but on a standard supporting structure.
In this particular case, we noticed late that the pin of the support legs was smaller than we had originally expected. That is, it was planned to install the sides at a height of 59 cm, and the bathtub, together with the legs fully turned out, has a height of 56 cm.
The problem was solved by cutting pieces of tiles, which were subsequently glued at the location of the legs.
We seal the fasteners to the wall with silicone
A strip of silicone sealant was applied on top of the profile, departing 1-2 mm from it.
You can install plumbing fixtures on pieces of tile glued to silicone no sooner than a day after the silicone has completely polymerized.
So, now you know how to attach metal plumbing fixtures to the wall and floor. All that remains is to find out how to fix the acrylic plumbing fixtures that are popular today?
How to strengthen a bathtub so that it does not wobble if it is made of acrylic?
Let's take a closer look at the steps listed in the instructions:
In order to corner bath was quickly and efficiently installed, make sure that the two walls form seat converge at right angles. Absence right angle indicates that there will be a gap between the side and one of the walls, which is very difficult to cover.
After the support legs are installed on the profile, their plugs should be located at the same level. You can check the location of the extreme points of the support legs with a ruler, measuring the distance from the surface of the profile to the surface of the plug.
So, we just learned how to install acrylic bath on the supporting legs. But as long-term operation shows, this method has a significant drawback. In the area between the reinforced profiles, the bowl crunches under the weight of a person.
Of course, this drawback is not critical, but it is better to eliminate it. For these purposes, standard foam concrete blocks with a length of 625 mm and a thickness of 250 mm are selected.
To make installation of the bathtub on blocks with standard sizes possible, when assembling the mounting frame, we space the profiles at a distance of at least 65 cm.
The blocks are installed under the bowl on polyurethane foam. After the foam has completely hardened, the bath will stop crunching and become motionless. The cost of this method is minimal, since you only have to purchase a few bricks and a bottle of foam.
Let's take a closer look at the instructions for strengthening fasteners:
To make the foam stick better to the blocks and to the floor screed, the mounting surfaces must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.
In this article, I talked about how to fix a bathtub to the wall and floor. I hope that now you will not have problems with arranging the bathroom. However, if you have any questions about the installation, I will be happy to give them a comprehensive answer.
The previous article talked about installing cast iron bathtubs, now let's figure it out.
In general, installing a steel bathtub is not much different from installing a cast iron one (except, of course, that a steel one is easy to move). However, there are still differences.
If a cast iron bathtub will stand securely even in the middle of the room due to its stability due to its massiveness, then installing a steel bathtub in this way will not work: it must necessarily be adjacent to three walls.
A steel bathtub must be installed before laying the wall tiles (unlike a cast iron bathtub, which is installed after the bathroom has been tiled). In this case, it is desirable that the distance from one end wall to the other was equal to the length of the bathtub plus a couple of centimeters (so that the bathtub fits freely between the opposite walls). In apartments, this condition is met, since everything is done according to standards: a standard bathtub is 1.7 m long, and the bathroom in apartments is, as a rule, 2 cm larger (this is also a standard). Well, in private houses, it often happens that the owners themselves plan what, how and where to tinker... it’s for such owners that this paragraph was written.
All lightweight bathtubs come with adjustable feet.
The most reliable and safe supports for steel bathtubs are supports with self-adhesive pads. If the manufacturer has provided rigid fastening using tightening bolts, during the process of tightening them or under the influence of load during operation, the enamel may peel off at the fastening points. To prevent such peeling, self-adhesive overlays are used.
The supports have a channel shape. The supports have adjusting screws equipped with plastic tips. It is better to use fasteners with long bolts and short supports, and not vice versa.
As mentioned above, steel bathtubs are not stable enough due to their low mass, so you can make an additional support - install the bathtub on bricks, laying out this very support from bricks (or blocks) with outside baths:
It is clear that this support will be tiled, so the appearance of the bricks themselves does not matter.
When installing such supports, do not forget to leave space for access to the siphon.
Now let's figure out how to install a steel bathtub step by step.
In the first step, we prepare the installation site. There must be connections for the mixer and sewage pipe for drainage (all sizes were discussed in the section on designing water supply and sewerage systems).
A steel bathtub is installed against bare walls! Before installing the bathtub, the walls must be prepared: the old coating is removed, the walls are leveled, primed, free of dust, which guarantees reliable fastening of the tiles. It is also preferable to treat the walls with a moisture-proofing agent. The angles between the walls must be strictly straight.
The difference between steel bathtubs is in the fastening of the legs. In one version, the legs are attached with double-sided tape, in the other - with wing nuts. In any case, the bathtub is placed bottom up (see below).
There is no need to remove the cardboard packaging, and if removed, then add soft material.
The bathtub comes with instructions for its installation and assembly, just do it as written in the instructions. This is just an example for a standard bath; your distances may vary.
We try on each of the two paired supports to their installation locations. For example, 70 mm from the water outlet to the middle of the front legs, and from the middle of the front legs to the rear 820 mm:
The supports must be located without displacement from flat surface bottom. And, I repeat, read the distances in the instructions for your bathtub; they may differ from those shown in the photo.
To ensure that the supports fit snugly to the bottom of the bathtub, you can carefully straighten the supporting channel. This should be done, of course, not on the bathtub, but somewhere to the side, on a sheet of packaging cardboard laid on the floor.
At the joining points, the surface of the bath is degreased with acetone or pure alcohol.
Next, remove the protective film from the pads, carefully place the supports in their places and press them tightly. Here, too, you need to degrease the mounting surfaces with the above-mentioned substances (and nothing else, especially paint solvents!).
Before deletion protective film, it is advisable to slightly warm up the pad with a household or hair dryer.
To mark the places where the legs will be glued, a simple pencil may not be very convenient - it is difficult to see on a dark surface. You can use, for example, a yellow pencil, it is clearly visible on metal. Or you can stick a piece of masking tape on the bathtub in the right place, as in the photo above.
The legs of a steel bathtub can also be attached with wing nuts to the brackets on the bottom of the bathtub:
The legs are pressed against the bathtub with corner stops and that’s it.
Important! Do not tighten the lamb too much, otherwise the enamel will bounce off from the inside.
The legs are supplied with studs for adjusting the bathtub in height and level; they can be disassembled. Their assembly is as follows. We carefully drive the adjusting threaded rods into the plastic tips all the way, making sure not to damage the threads. It is better to screw the complete nuts onto the ends of the studs first. Next, we drive the fixing nuts to the tips and screw the studs into their places on the supports (legs, in the sense).
If the doors in the bathroom are narrow, then it is advisable to install the supports already in the bathroom. At wide doors Assembly can be carried out outside the bathroom. We bring the bath in a vertical position, you do NOT need to hold it by the legs, just hold it by the edges.
It is better to buy a collapsible and rotating harness, which will facilitate the installation of the corrugated outlet to the sewerage system.
Go. First insert the cuff into the hole in the bathtub:
We fasten the drain grate with a screw:
Everything here is plastic, so without fanaticism, you can always hold out if necessary.
Make sure that the grille is not skewed.
In general, there are many types of bathtub trims, choose according to your taste. It is better to buy something that is easy to install and easy to change.
Simultaneously with the installation of the bathtub, we provide for the installation of a check valve for draining washing machine. Such a valve also prevents the siphon effect that occurs due to drainage from the upper floors and leads to bad work cars.
As a result we have:
Drain from the bathtub (1), drain (2) from the washing machine through check valve(3), while the end of the pipe is plugged (4), where it will then be continued for draining from the sink. Well, the pipe goes through the wall (5) into the sewer system. The bathtub overflow connected by corrugation (6) is also visible.
So, we placed the bathtub in its designated place, having first screwed on the legs. We carry out preliminary leveling in height and level, in the same way as was considered for a cast iron bathtub. By adjusting the legs, we level the bathtub in two planes: longitudinal and transverse:
Then, between the end edges and the walls, closer to the corners, we hammer in four narrow wooden wedges, performing precise alignment along the three walls. This gap will then be needed to firmly fix the bathtub.
Attention! There is no need to slope the bathtub using legs, supposedly for better drain. Bathtubs are deliberately made with a sloped bottom.
Cast iron bath, thanks to its weight, it stands securely and does not wobble without any additional tricks. A steel bathtub needs to be fixed somehow - fastened, even though it seems to be on legs. This is where the gaps we left between the tub and the walls when we set the levels come in handy.
These gaps can be filled with foam. The edges of the bathtub at the points of contact with the wall must first be covered with paper removable tape (the white tape on the white bathtub is not visible, therefore it is shown in red lines):
Now we fill the gap between the walls and the bathroom with polyurethane foam using a narrow nozzle:
Try not to stain your hands and clothes with foam.
The wedges are pulled out with pliers after the foam has hardened, the excess foam is trimmed with a blade, and the tape is removed. First we lay out the border, then the tiles on the wall. If the border is not ceramic, but will stick to the tile, then first lay out the tile, then grout the seams, after which we glue the plastic baseboard.
The space under the bathtub can be covered with a wall made of bricks or blocks, then laid out with tiles:
Or install a sliding plastic screen:
That's all about how to install a steel bathtub. There is more to come about installing an acrylic bathtub.
how to install a steel bathtub
