Even a chic front door will have an unpresentable appearance if the slopes around it are sloppy. They should have a beautiful frame, highlight and complement the front door, which is the main element. To decide how to finish the slopes, you need to pay attention to the color scheme, design and style of the front door. Those slopes that frame the entrance inside the apartment must match the design of the hallway and the decorative parameters of the door.
In addition to the decorative function, these door elements should provide additional effective insulation.
It is their plane that closes the joints between the wall and the box. Let's look at what features the finishing of door slopes has after installing the front door.
For doors, it is necessary to carry out a high-quality finish of the opening. They use different methods to work. Professionals advise doing finishing work in one of 3 ways.
In the first variant, the cement mortar is applied to the slopes. When it dries, plaster the opening. This method does not require large financial costs. Such a finish will be quite durable, but the method is laborious.
There is also another way of finishing. In the second option, it is proposed to use panels of different materials. They are simply glued using a special compound. The method is simpler, but financial costs increase.
In the third method, it is proposed to build a frame on which finishing panels are attached. In these designs, you can install additional lights, hide wires, etc.
After installing the iron door, the doorway is finished using any of the proposed methods. The choice will depend only on the skills of the master and taste preferences.
Decorative finishing of the doorway is not performed without the use of additional materials. When slopes are created, it is necessary to apply a heater. This stage is especially important for doors in a private house. In apartment buildings, this technique provides a reduction in heat loss.
In the form of insulation, you can use foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. In some situations, it is problematic to install a layer of such material, since the opening space is reduced. According to the requirements of SNiP, this indicator must be at least 80x190 cm. If the available space does not allow the use of reliable insulation, then you can take special sandwich panels.
For too wide openings, the front door opening is finished using frame technology. If you want to reduce the amount of cement mixture, then use this finishing option. In frame structures there is a heater inside. The front side is made of plastic or wood. It has an aesthetic and presentable appearance.
Before finishing the slopes with drywall, clapboard, laminate, plastic panels or other materials, certain preparatory steps must be taken. For any option of subsequent installation, they will be the same.
If the door was installed by installers, then it is required to check the tightness of the finish. This is done by holding a candle around the entire perimeter of the opening. If in some place the flame deviates, then sealant must be added there.
Slopes and door leaf should be sealed with a special protective film. Then the excess foam is cut off. When the surface is already prepared, then a primer is applied to it. Now, if necessary, you can lay a telephone wire or cable for additional lighting.
Aligned sections of the wall must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and coated with a special deep penetration primer. It will provide high adhesion of the layers and strengthen the base surface. The concrete lintel above the door should be given special attention. It needs to be treated with Betonokontakt. This is a special primer used for surfaces that do not absorb moisture well.
When the primer dries (about 5 - 8 hours), beacon profiles are installed as accurately as possible. They are needed to level the slopes.
The following steps are performed:
Similarly, corner profiles are set on the sides and top of the doorway. They should be flush with the over-door area and with the end walls.
After the installation of the beacons, the cement-sand mixture is prepared. The cheapest and easiest way is to use river or quarry sand and cement grades M-200 or M-150 as basic ingredients. To get the right consistency, you need to follow the sequence:
The finished solution with a spatula or trowel with force must be thrown onto the wall and then leveled.
When choosing how to finish slopes, you can pay attention to drywall. Working with drywall is more pleasant and easier than using plaster. In this case, it is necessary to work with finishing putty. It plays the role of adhesive for drywall sheets.
If space is limited, then drywall is the best fit for slopes. This process is carried out as follows:
Iron doors can be large. In this case, it is necessary to use a special method of installing slopes. Frame finishing will reduce the load on structural elements. If this recommendation is ignored and a plastering method is chosen for a heavy door, then a re-repair process may be required. The surface will begin to crack due to excessive load.
Using the wireframe method, it is possible to prevent the deformation of finishing decorative materials.
This method is used when installing heavy finishing materials. Frame preparation is also required for MDF with a thickness of 4 mm.
You can save on cement mortar by installing insulation inside. The frame method is also used for walls subject to frequent moisture ingress.
First, the surface is prepared, in some cases it is necessary to first plaster the base. Then you need an antiseptic primer.
In the form of a frame, wooden slats or aluminum profiles are suitable. If wooden slats are selected, then they must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition. The beam or profile is set using the building level and fixed with dowel-nails.
All structural elements should be rigidly fixed to the base. Longitudinal jumpers will strengthen the structure. Thermal insulation is used in cells. Then you need to measure and prepare the strips. They are installed with glue. Then the reinforcement is reinforced with self-tapping screws. Finishing can be done using the selected material.
Different types of decor are used in the process of finishing slopes. Depending on the taste preferences of the owners of the house and the chosen method, different materials can be used. It can be plastic, lining, tile, decorative stone, laminate or other materials.
Finishing the slope with clapboard or laminate is a fairly common option. These are durable and strong materials. You can even mount them on a surface that is not even enough.
For even and shallow slopes, it is possible to use plastic panel trim. This decor is quite soft and can be slightly deformed. Therefore, it will be more efficient to use MDF panels for finishing. The material is quite rigid.
For decorative finishing, depending on the type of material, a cement-sand mixture or an adhesive solution is used for fastening.
Considering the question of how to finish the front door opening, wallpaper and paint can be noted. Paint is easier to use. Suitable acrylic or water-based paint. First, a layer of starting and then finishing putty should be applied to the surface. Paint of any color is chosen, the main thing is that it is in harmony with the decoration of the hallway.
Wallpaper is used much less often for finishing work, but this method looks advantageous. Wallpaper will be a continuation of the decoration of the hallway. To facilitate the work, a material without a pattern is selected. This process is performed simultaneously with pasting the walls in the hallway.
Having considered all the ways to finish the slopes of the front door, you can choose the most suitable option and do all the work yourself.
Installation of entrance doors provides reliability, safety and high-quality protection against heat loss, all kinds of external sounds and noises. In the event that a person is engaged in repairs in his own apartment on his own, the next question that he will have will be how to repair the door slopes with his own hands.
No matter how carefully the door is installed, you can hardly do without additional finishing of the slopes.
From the outside, the doors are most often closed by craftsmen, or people close them themselves during the installation process. On the inside, everything is much more complicated. There will be bare concrete, door fasteners, bricks and so on. In order to hide all this disgrace, you will need to make door slopes.
It is worth knowing that the process of finishing the slopes of the entrance doors can be done with the help of installers, but not every company is ready to undertake this. Therefore, you will need to make slopes with your own hands.
This process is not at all complicated with any method of forming slopes.
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Elements that will be needed in order to make the slopes of the entrance doors:
The appearance of the slope after the installation of the door. In order to hide defects, you will need to make door slopes.
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The main purpose of a drywall slope is to give a normal look to the doorway and securely cover the fastening of the door frame. Thus, it will be possible to increase the burglary resistance of the entire structure. There are several ways that people can form slopes themselves:
Separation should be made specifically according to the method of slope formation. This is due to the fact that it will be possible to choose a wide variety of materials for sheathing. Slopes can be made of drywall, laminate, MDF, plastic panels, wooden lamellas, cellulose panels and many other materials. The choice must be made based on how you plan to fix the slope of the front door with your own hands.
The most acceptable option in terms of sound insulation and protection is to seal the entire slope with mortar. In addition, the result will be a slope that does not bend and has no voids. However, from a design point of view, this option is somewhat constrained. A good solution may be to decorate the slope with textured plaster and paint.
In the event that, in addition to filling with a solution, various finishing materials are mounted, it will be possible to achieve absolutely any appearance. Therefore, this option, with high-quality performance, combines the advantages of the first method and does not have any disadvantages.
It is important to understand that without high-quality slopes, even the most beautiful door can lose all its attractiveness.
The last way to slope the front door is based on mounting a finishing material, for example, MDF, drywall or plastic, on an already pre-built frame, which people can make themselves from wooden bars or a metal profile.
Such an option may be ideal in the case when a sufficiently large amount of mortar is spent on slopes using other methods to completely fill it. As a result, it will be possible to save some money, in addition, you can make the slope more aesthetic. It is worth knowing that with a frame structure it is much easier to achieve evenness and comply with all levels, and this is very important for visual perception.
Using this slope option can be great for installing lights and switches in or above a doorway. Thus, it will be possible to illuminate the hallway at the entrance to the apartment itself. In addition, with a frame structure, it will be much easier to conduct such communications yourself, such as, for example, the Internet or cable television.
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It is worth noting that the preparatory stage is the same for any method of forming slopes. First of all, you need to glue the door frame and the door leaf with film and masking tape to avoid any damage. It is necessary to cut off all particularly protruding parts that may interfere with the process of mounting the frame of future slopes or protrude above the level of plastering.
After that, the entire surface is swept and primed. It is important to note that in this case, the best option would be to use a deep penetration primer. It is relevant to use a surface primer only if the wall is made of some kind of loose material (for example, foam concrete).
At this stage, it is worth thinking about laying a power cable in order to connect the switch that will be needed to light the lamps in the hallway. In the event that the plans use the option with frame fastening of slopes, it would be better to postpone the laying of the wire until the frame is installed.
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With a frame construction, it is much easier to achieve evenness and observe all levels.
On a primed and prepared surface, you will need to install beacon profiles. They will make it possible to bring a flat surface to the solution that is applied. It will be possible to fix the beacons with the help of a solution. In this case, it will be relevant to use a gypsum mortar, because it sets quickly, therefore, you will have to wait much less before proceeding to the next step.
It is necessary to put in two or three places along the length of each of the ends of a pile of solution of small sizes, and then install beacons. Using a bubble level, you need to adjust the position of the beacons in the same plane.
After the mortar under the beacons hardens, it will be possible to start filling the slopes with a cement-sand mortar. Cement with sand must be mixed in a ratio of 1: 4, then thoroughly mixed with a mixer nozzle, which is inserted into a drill at low speed. The solution should turn out like a curd mass. As needed, you need to add a little gypsum.
Using a spatula and trowel, you need to apply the solution to the slopes of the doorway and level it with beacons. The solution will dry for at least a day. After it dries, it will be possible to start applying the starting and finishing putty. The final dried putty will need to be finally leveled with an abrasive mesh. Next, you need to cover the slope with paint.
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Materials such as drywall, MDF, plastic slopes, and so on are strengthened with a cement-sand mortar or adhesive. After that, the surface is ready: smooth and primed.
The technology of applying the adhesive composition on a sheet of drywall.
It is best to mark the level of future slopes and provide a good support for the skin material. To do this, you need to screw the screws into the wall so that their caps form a single plane. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the sheathing material, because it will be based on the caps of the self-tapping screws. Next, it will be possible to fill the entire space of the slope with a solution along the perimeter.
In order to save money and for reliability, a cement-sand mortar can be used as the first layer, with which you can form a layer slightly smaller than the height of the supporting screws. Next, you need to choose an adhesive composition that is suitable for the selected sheathing material. Adhesive words will need to be applied in an even layer on the surface of the slopes and on the strips of material on the reverse side.
Next, you need to carefully attach the sheets of material to the slope, and then press them until they rest against the caps of the self-tapping screws. The evenness of the installation can be checked with a level. If necessary, you can correct the position if the mortar has not yet set.
In case there is a gap between the sheathing sheets and the wall, it will need to be sealed with mortar. Next, you can attach the platbands.
With carelessly made slopes, even the most expensive and luxurious front doors will look unattractive. Why do we need slopes for entrance doors? First of all, they are used as a beautiful frame, a means of complementing and highlighting the main element - that is, the door itself. In order for you to be able to decide what material to make slopes from, it is necessary, first of all, to pay attention to the design of the door structure itself, its style and color. After all, it is important that the slopes fit not only the design of the door, but also the overall design of the room.
We also note that the described elements perform not only aesthetic functions - they are also an insulating layer, because they close the joints between the structure and the walls.
To create slopes, you can use a variety of materials, although, as an option, you can bring the already existing slopes into a “divine look”.
If the door structure is strong and reliable, but does not look very presentable, reinforce the corners and level the slopes using plaster. Tellingly, this is often done not only from the side of the staircase, but also in the hallway itself.
Note! The plastered slopes will look pretty neat - if you wish, you can additionally paint them in the color of the room or door trim.
It is advisable to use this material if your slopes turned out to be wide due to the rather large thickness of the walls. Thanks to the use of drywall, your walls will become warmer, and all existing joints will be securely closed. In addition, the slopes, again, will look very neat.
If you want, you can subsequently paint the drywall or, alternatively, paste over with wallpaper. One of the main advantages of the material is that its installation does not require laborious work to level the surface.
If the wood is suitable for door trim, then you can use it for slopes. It is no secret that wood has always enjoyed considerable popularity and, apparently, will never go out of fashion. The material fits perfectly into almost any interior design, and if necessary, you can easily change the tint of the material using folk / modern means.
In addition, wood can serve you for many years, while retaining all its decorative and operational properties. Although, in a pinch, you can always paint it to match the color of the hallway.
Such lining, made on the basis of chipboard, can be an excellent alternative to natural wood.
Due to the fact that this material is available in a variety of colors and can imitate the texture of various tree species, you can always choose the most suitable option for decorating the hallway. However, it is highly undesirable to use lining when finishing external slopes, since it will simply quickly become unusable there.
The next material through which they can get off slopes for entrance doors, are ready-made PVC panels. This material is made in a variety of colors, and the dimensions of the panels can also be different. The production and sale of this kind of panels are carried out by specialized companies, where specialists work who are also engaged in their (panels) installation.
This finish of the slopes looks attractive and respectable. The service life of PVC panels is quite long, but it is still desirable to mount them from the side of the hallway, and on the reverse side - options No1 or No2 (they are described above).
Note! If you are completely confident in yourself, you can finish the slopes with finished elements with your own hands.
Although it is worth noting that there is another option for using polymeric materials for slopes - in this case we are talking about plastic lining. It also comes in a variety of colors, so you can easily choose the most suitable option for decorating the hallway.
Yes, they are also widely used in the design of slopes. But, as a rule, only for thick walls. Although in fairness, we note that this option has not been very popular in recent years due to the emergence of a huge number of more modern materials that can replace chipboard elements that are so difficult to install.
In any case, if you have a panel of suitable sizes lying around, you can very well decorate door slopes from the inside with it.
Note! There are other materials used in the design of slopes (for example, laminate, installation instructions for which will be given at the end of the article), but only the most common options were considered above.
Before proceeding directly to work, you must prepare all the necessary materials and equipment. So, if we are talking about plaster, then you should prepare:
If panel materials are used for finishing, then the list of everything you need will look a little different:
When all the required equipment and materials are ready, you can proceed to the preparatory work and the actual finishing. Let's consider in more detail each of the possible options.
First, let's get acquainted with some features of the finishing process.
In any case, the finishing work itself should begin only after the installation of the door structure and the sealing of all joints between it and the wall. We also add that the previous coating should be removed from the slopes in advance, as well as peeling areas should be repaired. After carrying out all these activities, you can proceed directly to the finish using one of the technologies presented below.
If you decide to use a plaster mixture for finishing, then proceed in accordance with the instructions.
Step one. First, prime the previously cleaned surfaces (if possible, then in two layers, but the second layer should be applied only after the first one has completely dried).
step two. After that, determine how even the slope angles are. In case of deviations from the norm, be sure to take this moment into account when installing the reinforcing corners. With the help of the latter, you can easily align corners that deviate slightly from the vertical.
Step Three. Next, using a level and a plumb line, set the perforated metal corners at the corners. Ideally, they should immediately be attached to the finishing putty (the latter can be purchased ready-made). Apply it, using a spatula, to the corners of the slopes - the mixture is necessary not only for fixing the corners, but also for leveling the slopes horizontally / vertically. Remove excess solution that has come through the perforation immediately using the same spatula. When everything is perfectly smooth, you can rest for a while - the putty should dry completely.
Step Four. In the case of uneven slopes, before installing the leveling corners, it is recommended to set the direction from the door jamb by fixing a drywall strip about 0.8-1 cm wide along it. To attach this material to the surface, use putty. If the putty you use is gypsum, it will not take very long to dry completely.
Step Five. The perforated corner and the edge of the drywall strip are, in this case, the points that you must connect with putty and level with the plaster mix.
Step Six. We continue to finish the slopes for the entrance doors. When the elements that correct the walls are dry, spread the putty (according to the manufacturer's instructions) to end up with a paste-like mixture.
step seven. Using a trowel, throw the resulting mixture onto the wall, moving up from the floor. After throwing the right amount (about 100 centimeters high), level the putty using a short rule. As a kind of beacons, a metal corner and a previously fixed plasterboard strip will serve.
Step eight. Throw the mixture on the second section, level it, and then move all the way to the top in the same way.
Step nine. With puttying the upper surface of the opening, certain difficulties may arise. So, for applying putty there, you will have to use a wide spatula, and for leveling - all the same short rule. After that, putty the wall above the opening, then cover the top of the perforated corner with the mixture.
Step ten. Wait until the puttied slopes are completely dry. The drying time depends on the composition, as well as on the thickness of the leveling layer.
Step Eleven. When the layer dries, check how good the surface is. If there are minor defects, clean or chip them. After that, bring the slopes to the limit evenness, using the finishing putty for this.
Step twelve. At the end, when the top coat is dry, cover it with a primer.
The resulting slopes can be wallpapered, painted or, alternatively, finished with decorative plaster.
This material is simpler and easier to work with than the plaster described above. However, you still have to use the finishing putty - in this case it will serve as an adhesive for GKL sheets; although instead of it, it is better to give preference to special gypsum adhesives, which are designed to work with just this material.
In the case of limited space, drywall sheets are ideal for finishing slopes. The algorithm of actions in this case should be as follows.
Step one. First of all, separately measure each of the slopes.
step two. Transfer the received numbers to the sheets of material, then, working on the markup, open the elements for subsequent fastening to the walls.
Step Three. Install drywall sheets from the bottom of the opening. First, apply several “hills” of glue on the first sheet, as in the image, then press the element firmly to the desired location and additionally fix it with pre-prepared supports.
Step Four. Similarly, finish the side slopes with drywall parts, not forgetting to check each of them for level. For fixing to the walls, you can use driven dowels, having previously made narrow through holes under them with a perforator.
Step Five. Just as in the case of using plaster, close the corners with iron corners, using the same putty for fixing.
Step Six. Lubricate all joints with putty, carefully align and, when it dries, clean it thoroughly so that the finished slopes for entrance doors looked most attractive.
step seven. To obtain a perfectly even surface, apply a millimeter layer of finishing putty mixture. So you will finally mask all the defects and holes for the dowels.
Step eight. When the mixture has completely hardened, you can sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper (if required) and, finally, proceed to the decorative design. You can use for this, again, paint, decorative plaster or high-quality wallpaper.
Note! There is another way to fix drywall - it is advisable in cases where, when leveling the slopes, it is necessary to close a considerable thickness of the wall.
If you intend to use panels made of rigid materials in your work (this includes many types of lining, MDF, chipboard, etc.), then you should know that they are all attached using almost the same technology. The advantage of this method is that even the most serious irregularities can be hidden with such panels.
As for the specific algorithm of actions, in this case it will look something like this.
Step one. First, prime the slopes, mark the places where the bars or iron profiles will be attached. The step between them should be approximately 30-40 centimeters (if they are mounted across the slopes). In our example, a lining is used, mounted parallel to the box. If a transverse arrangement is required, fasten the crate along the jamb. If the surface is wide enough, you can use not 2, but 3-4 strips at once.
step two. The image shows another option - with the installation of lining parallel to the door leaf.
Step Three. You can lay heat-insulating material (polystyrene, mineral wool, etc.) between the lathing slats.
Step Four. Install the panels of the selected material on top of the finished batten.
Step Five. For installation of laminated / plastic lining, use the metal fasteners shown in the image.
Step Six. To fasten large panels, use self-tapping screws, sinking the latter by 0.15-0.2 centimeters. To close up the formed holes, you can use putty.
step seven. At the end, install decorative corners. They must match the color of the cladding. Glue corners on horizontal as well as outer vertical corners; finally, at the joints of the finishing material and the door frame itself.
Vinyl panels are rightfully considered one of the most modern materials that can be used for finishing slopes. They are sold in almost all specialized companies involved in the production and installation of this material. In the case of a non-standard form of slopes, the panels can be made to order, having previously measured the dimensions.
Finishing can imitate various natural materials, so in any case you will choose the most suitable option for yourself, regardless of the design of the door and the hallway itself.
Note! The main advantage of such panels is that they are quickly installed, and there is little debris left after completion of work. Yes, and this kind of finish looks extremely attractive, neat and stylish.
This material is fastened with a universal adhesive that can reliably connect materials of different properties (for example, brick and lining, concrete and wood, plaster and vinyl). In a word, everything that can be used in the course of finishing and construction work. Still, as an option, slopes for entrance doors can be finished with vinyl using polyurethane foam.
The adhesive should be applied to the inner surface of each panel, and then pressed against the slopes. In this case, no holes need to be drilled in the walls or cladding, which can also be attributed to the undeniable advantages of this technology.
Laminate is widely used as flooring, it is easy to work with and comes in a variety of colors. Who does not know, laminate is an MDF panel covered with a special decorative layer. Why is this material so popular? This is because it has many important advantages.
Note! The service life of slopes can reach 10 or even 15 years, which, you see, is not so short.
Sheathing slopes with laminate can be done in one of several possible ways. Let's get acquainted in more detail with each of them.
As for the laying process itself, it - regardless of the specific method chosen - should begin with surface preparation. In our example, the laminate will be attached to the adhesive. The algorithm of necessary actions is given below.
Step one. First fill all the gaps and apply a layer of plaster. Do all this on a plaster mesh. Later, when the plaster is completely dry, prime the slopes to provide additional protection.
step two. Here begins the most important stage of work, so approach the matter with the utmost responsibility. You need to mark up and cut the laminate. Start at the top, then move on to the sides. We recommend cutting the material with an electric jigsaw, although in the absence of one, a regular hacksaw may well be suitable.
Step Three. Before gluing, install mounting spacers - a kind of border, thanks to which the material will not move.
Step Four. Take the first lamella, put it on the upper slope, and then open the door - the latter should not catch it. Then apply foam to the inner surface of the laminate, press it against the slope and fix it with masking tape (you can remove the latter only after complete drying). Too much foam should not be applied, because an excessive amount of foam after swelling can lead to displacement of the element.
Step Five. Install the sidewalls in the same way, regularly using the building level.
Step Six. Having laid out all the slopes, wait for the mounting foam to dry completely and proceed to the final stage of work. Cut off excess foam, close the openings with plaster. But this is not the end yet - slopes for entrance doors looked really attractive, seal the openings with a corner of a suitable color.
That's all, now you know about the most popular ways to finish the door slope. We hope the article was really useful for you.
Good luck in your work and, according to tradition, warm winters to you!
Already in the apartment. Reliability, safety, high-quality protection that protects against heat loss and all kinds of external sounds and noises is provided. Now it remains only to bring the marafet. From the outside, entrance doors are most often ennobled with platbands or sealed with mortar by the installers or independently during installation. From the inside, everything is much more deplorable. Bare concrete, bricks, door fastenings are visible. It is necessary to organize slopes to hide all this disgrace. Finishing the slopes of the front door can be done by installers, however, not every company undertakes this. In this case, you will have to do this work yourself. The process itself is not particularly complicated with any method of forming slopes. Below is just a detailed instruction on how to make slopes with your own hands.
The main purpose of the slope is to give a normal appearance to the doorway and securely cover the fasteners of the door frame, thereby increasing the burglary resistance of the entire structure. There are several ways to form slopes:
The division is made precisely according to the method of slope formation, because the materials for sheathing can be selected in a wide variety of ways: laminate, MDF, drywall, plastic panels, wooden lamellas, cellulose panels and much more. The main thing is to decide how to fix the slopes of the front door with your own hands.
Filling the entire slope with mortar is the most acceptable option in terms of protection and soundproofing. Moreover, the result is a slope that does not bend, has no voids. However, this option is somewhat constrained in the design sense. Alternatively, you can decorate the slope with textured plaster and paint.
If, in addition to filling with a solution, you also mount various finishing materials, then you can achieve absolutely any appearance. So this option, when fully executed, combines the advantages of the first method and does not actually have any disadvantages.
Without good slopes, even the most luxurious door loses all its appeal.
The third way, how to slope the front door, involves mounting a finishing material, such as MDF, drywall or plastic, on a pre-built frame made of wooden bars or a metal profile. This option is ideal in the case when an unacceptable amount of solution is spent on the formation of slopes in another way to completely fill it. As a result, money is saved, and it is possible to make the slope the most aesthetic. Moreover, with a frame structure it is easier to achieve evenness and comply with all levels, which is not unimportant for visual perception.
This version of the slopes is great for installing lighting and switches directly in or above the doorway. So it will be possible to illuminate the hallway directly at the entrance to the apartment. In addition, with a frame construction of slopes, it will be easier to later carry out such communications as wired Internet or cable TV.
For any method of slope formation, the preparatory stage is the same. Before any work, the door leaf and the door frame should be pasted over with film and masking tape so as not to damage. First of all, all especially protruding parts are combed out, which may interfere with the installation of the frame of the future slope or will protrude above the level of plastering. Then the entire surface is swept and primed. It is better to use a deep penetration primer. Only if the wall is made of foam concrete or similar loose material, a surface primer is used.
At the preparation stage, it is also possible to lay a power cable to connect a switch that will light the lamps in the hallway. If you plan to use the option with frame fastening of the slope, then it is better to postpone the laying of the wire until the frame is already installed.
Tip: For clarity, display the outlines of the future slope on the floor. Subsequently, it will be easier to navigate by these labels.
Beacon profiles are installed on the prepared and primed surface. With their help, it is easier to bring a flat surface to the applied solution. Beacons can be fixed with mortar. It is better to use a gypsum mortar, it sets quickly and it will soon be possible to proceed to the next step.
Put small piles of mortar in two or three places along the length of each end and install beacons. Using a bubble level, adjust the position of the beacons in one plane.
When the mortar under the lighthouses has hardened, you can begin to fill the slope with a cement-sand mortar. Cement is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 4 and thoroughly mixed with a mixer nozzle inserted into a drill at low speed. The solution should be similar in density to the curd mass. You can add some plaster.
Using a trowel and spatula, apply the solution to the slope of the doorway and align with the beacons. As soon as the solution dries, and this is not less than a day, you can start applying the starting and finishing putty. The dried finishing putty is finally compared with an abrasive mesh. After that, you can open the slope with paint.
In this case, materials such as drywall, MDF, plastic slopes, etc. are reinforced with a cement-sand mortar or adhesive. The surface has already been prepared: leveled and primed.
It is best to mark the level of the future slope and provide a normal stop for the skin material. To do this, screws are screwed into the wall so that their caps form one plane. At the same time, the thickness of the sheathing material is taken into account, because it will rely on the caps of the self-tapping screws. After that, you can fill the entire space of the slope along the perimeter with a solution.
For reliability and for the sake of economy, a cement-sand mortar is used as the first layer, which forms a layer slightly smaller than the height of the supporting screws. Next, an adhesive composition is selected that is suitable for your sheathing material. The adhesive solution is applied evenly over the surface of the slope and onto the strips of material from the reverse side.
Carefully attaching sheets of material to the slope, they must be pressed down until they rest on the caps of the self-tapping screws. The correctness of the installation is checked using a level, if necessary, you can correct the position while the solution has not yet set.
If there is a gap between the sheathing sheets and the wall, it must be sealed with mortar. After that, you can attach the platbands, if any.
Even though the mortar will not be used, the entire surface of the wall under the slope should still be primed. This will prevent it from crumbling over time. Next, the parts for mounting the frame are prepared.
As a material for the frame, you can use wooden bars and slats, or a metal profile, which is used for the construction of plasterboard walls and ceilings. Given the thickness of any of these materials, prudent attention should be given to leveling the wall on which the frame will be mounted so that the frame elements fit snugly against the wall.
The frame elements should be fixed with plastic dowels and impact screws of the required length. Along the entire perimeter of the doorway, two rails or profiles are attached in parallel, placing them on both edges of the future slope. To strengthen the structure between the main load-bearing elements, jumpers are fixed. This is especially important at the corners between the sides of the doorway and the top.
Before sheathing the frame, you can just start laying the cable to the installation site of the switch.
The fastening of the skin is somewhat different for each type of material:
It is enough to fix it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the slope. The gap between the drywall sheet and the wall is filled either with a mortar, or rather wide trims are mounted. The edges of the plasterboard slopes are reinforced with special perforated corners. The joints between the pieces of drywall are sealed with sickle construction tape. The entire surface is puttied and compared with a grater with the finest abrasive. After that, you can paint the slopes or paste over with wallpaper.
This material has, undoubtedly, the best aesthetic qualities, and besides, greater strength and wear resistance than other materials. The elements are fastened with small nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. The main thing is that each type of fastening does not interfere with the installation of the following slope elements. Corners and attachment points are closed with platbands or corners, which are glued throughout the structure with liquid nails.
MDF is the most demanded material for slopes, and the maximum number of ready-made solutions is produced from it. Therefore, the installation of such slopes is usually the simplest.
Strips of laminate can be laid both across and along the ends of the doorway. When laying transversely, it is enough to fix the first lamella to the frame from below along the edges. Subsequent elements are installed with the lock snapping into place. Be sure to fix the last lamella. All intermediate ones can be fixed, for example, through one or even two elements. On the upper horizontal slope, all laminate strips must be fixed at the edges. The longitudinal strips of the laminate are attached at least in three places: along the edges and in the center.
Plastic slopes are installed, as well as plastic lining, in almost the same way as laminate. Since this material is less durable than laminate, it must be fixed more often. The fact that near the front door the material will be subject to heavy loads and frequent impacts is taken into account. Therefore, the fastenings of the strip of plastic sheathing of the slopes are located every 10-15 cm.
