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» Method of laying insulation on walls and stages. Features of slab insulation and rules for their installation Laying insulation

Method of laying insulation on walls and stages. Features of slab insulation and rules for their installation Laying insulation

According to experts, floor insulation increases the energy efficiency of buildings and reduces family costs for public utilities. Laying insulation is especially important in the bathroom, because residents often enter this room barefoot.

Insulation of the floor structure is necessary to create favorable microclimate in the house. Carrying out such work is especially important in an apartment on the ground floor, because the premises of such a home are not heated from below. Many property owners believe that wood flooring retains heat well, but in fact, even such products need additional insulation.

So why insulate the floor, many people wonder? The answer to this question can be quite simple. The point is that the flooring country house or apartment occupies a significant area. There may be cracks and chips on its surface, which allow heat to escape and cold air to enter the middle of the room.

If we take into account concrete base, then such a material is characterized by high performance indicators (durability and strength). Despite this, reinforced concrete slab ceiling or leveling screed made of mortar has one significant drawback - it is a high thermal conductivity coefficient. Due to this characteristic, concrete is considered cold building material. Insulation of the structure flooring increases efficiency heating system, helps reduce energy costs.

Laying thermal insulation is especially necessary for an apartment that is located on the first floor of the house. Living rooms usually located above the wet and damp basement, which can lead to mold on the walls. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to install insulation and waterproofing. With minimal experience and the necessary construction tools Any property owner can handle this kind of work. Next, we will describe how to make floor insulation with your own hands.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

Before the process of thermal insulation of the floor covering in a private house, it is necessary to select insulation. There are a huge number of similar products on the construction market, but the most the best materials For floor insulation the following are considered:

  • mineral wool;
  • penofol;
  • extruded polystyrene foam;
  • isolon;
  • ecowool;
  • expanded clay;
  • sawdust.

It is not difficult to understand that sawdust is considered the cheapest type of thermal insulation. This material is obtained after processing wood using special equipment. This is a secondary product that is environmentally friendly and has minimal cost. In addition, sawdust can be poured into any cracks. A floor insulated with their help will be absolutely safe for human health.

The second most accessible and popular thermal insulation materials, mineral wool, are distinguished by good heat-insulating and sound-proofing properties. Such products are available in the form of mats or rolls. They do not burn under the influence of high temperatures; in addition, fungus and mold do not appear on their surface. The main disadvantage of the material is the loss of its original properties when water penetrates the structure. In this regard, mats must be protected from moisture with high-quality thermal insulation.

Such thermal insulation material as isolon is made on the basis of mineral fibers. Similar products characterized by low thermal conductivity, resistance to chemicals and biological factors of influence. The insulation has average cost, resistant to mechanical stress.

And the last material, polystyrene foam, has high strength and resistance to moisture. Similar products are available in construction stores in the form of slabs, they have excellent thermal insulation ability. This material is quite durable, rodents and insects do not take it.

For floor insulation wooden house many people choose mineral wool. To carry out insulating work you will need the following tool:

  • hacksaw or parquet saw;
  • electric drill;
  • building level;
  • plane;
  • drills of different diameters;
  • hammer;
  • sharp knife;
  • roulette.

The entire list of works boils down to the following:

  1. Creating a subfloor from chipboards or boards, laying waterproofing.
  2. Installation of wooden bars (logs).
  3. Laying the selected insulation, in our case mineral wool.
  4. Installation of flooring.

On initial stage work, it is necessary to remove the old coating and correct unevenness on the base. After leveling the surface, create a subfloor from waste boards coniferous species wood. The croakers are fitted tightly and then treated with an antiseptic. If you do not use the specified impregnation, then the logs and wooden plank will rot after 5-7 years of use. All elements are fastened together using screws or nails.

At the next stage of work, they lay metal mesh with a small cell size. Next this structural element sprinkle with a thin layer of expanded clay (about 4 centimeters). This material will not only press down the mesh, but will also create the necessary ventilation gap between the insulation and the subfloor. Waterproofing, roofing felt or plastic film is also laid underneath.

Bars or joists are laid on the waterproofing of the rough wooden floor. They are attached to the surface every 80-100 centimeters using nails or self-tapping screws. One or several rows of mineral wool are placed in the space formed between these elements. The insulation is installed with overlapping joints, so that no gaps form between the slab and the joists. Next, the waterproofing is installed, which is attached to the base using staplers.

Milled boards are used as the finishing floor covering, connected to each other using a tongue-and-groove system.

These elements should have the same thickness within 4...5 centimeters, while their width ranges from 10 to 13 centimeters. A special longitudinal recess is made at the bottom of the boards for air circulation under the floor covering. Where the boards adjoin the walls, a structural gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left. In the future, this gap will be covered with a plinth.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Preparation for the main work consists of dismantling the old floor covering and clearing the surface of construction debris. Typically, the unnecessary structure is removed to a solid base, concrete or reinforced concrete floor slab. To clean the surface from dirt and debris, metal scrapers and a construction vacuum cleaner are used. After this, the holes and cracks in the base are sealed, using cement-sand mortar or special glue for this purpose. Before insulating the floor with expanded clay, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing works

For application bitumen mastic use a roller or paint brush. Drying of one layer of the solution in question occurs within three hours. For reliable and high-quality waterproofing It is necessary to apply up to three layers of material to the surface. Subsequently, a special damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room, which will form a gap after the screed has dried and will prevent possible deformations.

The technology for installing expanded clay screed is similar to the process of pouring concrete, so preparatory stage it is necessary to install beacons made of metal pipes. If expanded clay will be used as a backfill material, then T-shaped metal profiles should serve as beacons. The first guide rail is installed near the wall, opposite the door, and the maximum distance between the beacons is set within one meter.

The slats are fixed to the surface using a cement-sand mortar with an increased dosage of binder. The beacons are leveled using hydraulic or conventional building level. To adjust the height of the pipe, use wooden wedges, which need to be tapped in the right direction. The height of the slats is set in such a way that the height of the insulation screed is at least 8 centimeters.

The first layer of expanded clay can be laid as a screed or in a dry way (filling granules of baked clay into the spaces between the beacons). When using a liquid screed, pouring must be carried out in several successive stages. First of all, you need to mix expanded clay with a regular mortar in a ratio of 1 to 5. After this, begin laying the first layer of mortar; it should be 2 centimeters lower from the guide rails.

Expanded clay, which is part of a concrete floor, is considered a fairly light building material, so the granules must be embedded in the solution using a trowel. After some time, the expanded clay will remove moisture and sink into the main mass. When the first layer has hardened, begin laying the leveling concrete screed.

The thickness of the finishing layer of the solution should be at least two centimeters. concrete mixture poured in between installed beacons, and then tighten it with a rule to make it perfect Smooth surface. Depending on the thickness, the setting time of expanded clay screed can range from one to four weeks. During this process, it is necessary to protect the surface from direct sunlight.

Insulation of the floor in an apartment on the first floor

In the case where the apartment on the first floor of a residential building is located above the basement, the best option Insulating the floor will involve laying thermal insulation on the cellar side. IN in this case You can achieve one important advantage - the floor in the apartment does not need to be torn down and redone. In this case, the level of the floor covering will remain at the same level as before. Such work can be carried out even by inexperienced builders, since base surface does not require finishing.

Many people choose affordable mineral wool as insulation, but laying such material requires specialized knowledge and availability of construction tools. That is why most property owners use foam floor insulation.

The entire work process consists of several stages:

  • Find a plan for the first floor of the house and mark out the basement in such a way that the insulation boundaries slightly exceed the dimensions of the apartment;
  • We identify defective areas on the basement ceiling. We repair cracks, holes or chips on the surface using polyurethane foam or cement-sand mortar;
  • We lay a vapor barrier and plastic film. This material is overlapped, the sections are glued together using ordinary tape;
  • We build a frame from metal profile or wooden blocks of the required thickness;
  • We lay mineral wool slabs and fix plywood sheets.

Installation of foam sheets is carried out somewhat differently. The fact is that the insulation in question does not allow moisture to pass through, so it can be fixed to the surface of the basement walls using a special adhesive solution. For final fastening of products, plastic dowels are used.

The second option, insulating the floor covering in an apartment, is characterized by increased labor intensity. Before repair work it is necessary to calculate the possibilities for maximum floor lifting. The higher this indicator, the thicker the insulation layer can be laid. In the case where insulation work will take place after the renovation of the premises, the first step will be to remove the floor covering.

After dismantling the floor structure to the base, the master checks the surface for unevenness, cracks and chips. All defective areas are sealed using cement-sand mortar. Subsequently, the dried and hardened base is treated with a fixing impregnation, a substance called silling. At the next stage, a waterproofing polyethylene film is fixed to the surface, the panels of which are secured with tape.

Next, a layer of roofing felt is laid on the base, and wooden beam, fix the logs. These elements must be securely fixed in concrete. Next, expanded clay granules are poured to the thickness of the lag. Upper part insulation is leveled using cement screed. The joists are not filled to the top, but so that insulation can be laid between the rough and finished floors.

As an additional thermal insulation material Mineral wool slabs of the required thickness, penoplex or polystyrene foam can be used. In addition, in the formed gap they often place liquid insulation- penoizol. Next, fix the plastic film along the joists using a stapler. At the final stage of the work, a subfloor is constructed from sheets of plywood or boards. Insulation involves laying the selected floor covering.

About the need for vapor barrier

Many people do not know why a vapor barrier is needed when installing floor coverings with insulation. The fact is that the water vapor that is released during wet cleaning or cooking tries to seep through the walls and floors of rooms, while it negatively affects various wooden structures, for example lags. Due to temperature differences in adjacent rooms or inside and outside the building, steam turns into condensation. Subsequently, water seeps into the wood structure and causes its destruction.

Walls wooden house, as well as the roof are protected from moisture by antiseptic or waterproofing impregnation, which cannot be said about the floor elements. To protect the logs, a vapor barrier film is used, which protects not only the wood, but also the insulation, for example, mineral wool, from destruction. In this case, the vapor barrier allows the building to breathe. That is, air saturated with water will freely pass through thermal insulation and wood products.



Currently, not a single type of building construction can be completed without the use of insulating materials. Their task is to reduce heat loss in the cold season and create a favorable indoor climate in hot weather.

In addition, a layer of thermal insulation allows for high-quality protection of structures from various types of atmospheric influences. Simply put, by using insulation, the lifespan of your home will be much longer.

Types of materials used as insulation

It is customary to classify insulation based on the type of raw material. This:

  • organic thermal insulation materials;
  • inorganic elements;
  • and mixed components.

The most popular and widespread are materials of organic and inorganic origin; their prices are approximately equal. The list of inorganic products includes such as mineral wool and slabs made on its basis. In addition to it, the same list includes expanded perlite, vermiculite, glass wool and material such as aerated concrete.

This type of insulation is one of the most popular in modern market. This is due to their resistance to fire and the possibility of vapor permeation. In addition to these qualities, they also have a number of others that contribute to their spread and popularity.

Now let's take a closer look at the use various types insulation for walls, ceilings and floors.

Laying insulation on walls

If we talk about the classification of materials suitable for wall insulation, then they can be divided into those that are suitable for interior work and for outdoor work. What is their difference? There is no secret here. The difference lies in the possibility of vapor permeability.

  • Internal work on wall insulation requires the presence of this quality without fail, but work carried out outside the building requires the successful use of both types of thermal insulation.
  • Exterior wall decoration involves the use of fairly durable insulation. For these purposes, materials such as polystyrene foam or polystyrene are most suitable. In addition to these two, it is possible to use basalt slabs and various types of plasters.

So, if you have chosen polystyrene foam or polystyrene, then your thermal insulation will be complete, high-quality, meeting almost all the requirements technological rules insulation. The price will also most likely please you, especially if foam is used.

Fastening foam or polystyrene is carried out using adhesive composition. In addition, special fasteners called “umbrellas” are used as additional fixation.

At the next stage, reinforcement and plastering work is carried out. In this case, you can choose decorative plaster.

As for basalt slabs for wall insulation, its use is quite possible for both external and internal work. This material belongs to the category of elements with low thermal conductivity and high density. Its installation can be carried out using glue (according to the method described above), or by placing it in the space under a ventilated facade, made, for example, of siding. For internal insulation, it is placed under plasterboard sheathing.

Now a few words about the work on insulating internal walls. Please note that only materials with qualities such as vapor permeability are suitable for this purpose. This list includes insulation materials of mineral origin and some others.

Most often for internal insulation Mineral wool is used on the walls. But this material has one significant drawback: its installation cannot be done without plasterboard sheathing, which in turn significantly reduces the area of ​​the room.

The most appropriate is the use of mineral wool as insulation in the technology frame construction. This material is produced in the form of plates. Another option for its production is roll material.

The latter option is more suitable for insulating walls in large rooms. But slabs are more often used for insulation small rooms. There are no other differences between these two types.

For insulation ceiling surfaces use various materials. Which one to choose, everyone decides for themselves. After familiarizing yourself with the characteristics and some styling features, this procedure will not be difficult for you.

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  • One of the popular materials is foil-type mineral wool. This is a textile-type fiber, for the production of which various starting materials. Depending on this factor, there are such types of wool as stone wool, slag wool, glass wool, and so on. The thickness of this insulation varies from 2 to 20 cm.
  • Please note that when working with mineral wool any origin should definitely be used protective equipment. These are glasses, gloves, respirators, and so on. Especially if you have health problems related to the respiratory organs.
  • Another type of thermal insulation material for the ceiling is foil polyethylene foam. It is a component based on foamed polyethylene, one side of which is covered with foil. The thickness of this insulation can be from 1 to 20 mm. Standard width roll corresponds to a value of 1 m. Do not think that the maximum thickness is very small to ensure reliable thermal insulation. Despite this, he copes with the task perfectly. This is due to the existing layer of aluminum foil.

Ceiling insulation can be done in several ways, for example, from the attic side. For these purposes, any type of insulation can be used, but the most common options are mineral wool or expanded clay.

Another insulation option involves working from the bottom side. For this you will need to make a special frame structure hanging type.

Laying insulation on the floor

As for floor insulation work, here, as in the first two cases, various types of materials can be used. These include:

  • mineral wool, glass wool and so on;
  • Fiberboard, cork, plywood sheets, etc.;
  • polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, various polymer materials foamed in nature, having a foil surface;
  • expanded clay;
  • liquid insulation materials.

If you choose mineral wool as floor insulation, then your choice will provide you with good heat and sound insulation. In addition to these properties, the insulation has good resistance to fire and exposure to a humid environment. Mechanical damage is also irrelevant for him. The service life is quite long.

When purchasing mineral wool for floor insulation, you can choose either slabs or material in the form of mats that are quite flexible. If single-layer thermal insulation is planned, then the most appropriate would be to use slabs.

But the option with flexible mats will be more durable and resilient. Usually one of the sides of such mats is equipped with perforation. If your floor is wooden, then this method ideal for insulation. However, it's up to you to decide. Good luck!

Insulation of the walls of a house is carried out when the house is intended for living and the walls do not retain heat sufficiently.

All devices for heating a house (steam, stove, gas heating) consume maximum energy, but the heat is not retained.

By carrying out thermal insulation, you can ensure a comfortable environment in the house by insulating the walls, because a wall is a vulnerable place in a house that experiences high wind loads.

If the walls are not insulated sufficiently, the cold easily penetrates into the house.

Insulating walls from the inside or outside is an individual decision. A less popular method of insulation is from the inside. With this method, the area of ​​the room is significantly reduced.

This disadvantage of the method plays an important role in deciding the method of thermal insulation in favor of external works on insulation. In addition, there is a high probability of moisture occurring inside the wall, this is especially true in regions with high humidity.

Insulation of walls from the outside is carried out significantlymore often. This method requires more costs, but internal area for living in the house is preserved, which is important especially in houses whose area is already small.

Methods of wall insulation

Types of thermal insulation, their advantages and disadvantages

Among the many insulation materials, those that are most suitable in terms of their physical characteristics and heat-insulating properties predominate.

What is the best way to perform external insulation? The main types of wall insulation intended for external thermal insulation are:

  • (good thermal insulator, resistant to deformation, waterproof, but poor vapor permeability, risk of damage by rodents, toxic when burned);
  • (low water resistance, durability, resistance to temperature changes, but is vapor-tight, susceptible to rodents);
  • (durable, low thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to temperature changes, no seams during application, however, it can create pressure in the cracks of the building, susceptible to ultraviolet radiation, low fire safety during application);
  • (excellent heat insulator, sound insulator, non-flammable, durable, but during installation it releases harmful formaldehydes);
  • (waterproofing, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, durability, no seams, not affected by mold, rodents, however, it shrinks during application, which can provoke peeling, recommended for combined insulation);
  • glass wool(thermal insulation, sound insulation, not affected by mold, rodents, fire safety, moisture resistance, non-toxic, but due to the fragility of the fibers requires additional protection);
  • fiberboard(thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, durability, but at all positive properties short-lived, not recommended for rooms with high humidity: baths, saunas);
  • cork material(lightweight, durable, non-flammable, environmentally friendly, heat insulator, sound insulator, but quite expensive). In addition, there are other materials, but they are less popular.

Choice of insulation

Differences in insulation of aerated concrete, wooden, brick houses

The method of insulation depends on what material the walls of the house are made of. If we compare houses made of wood, brick and aerated concrete, we can highlight following points worthy of attention:

  • unlike brick walls and aerated concrete houses, prerequisite installation is the installation of lathing to ensure ventilation. Installation of sheathing of block walls is carried out only under or other suspended cladding;
  • the most suitable insulation materials for aerated concrete and brick walls are materials with a high moisture resistance (penoplex, expanded polystyrene), while For wooden houses the ideal insulation is breathable mineral wool slabs;
  • thermal conductivity brick wall higher than that of aerated concrete, so the wall must either be insulated with a thicker layer of insulation, or the thickness of the brickwork must be increased;
  • when externally insulating a wooden house, you should carefully prepare the surface by treating it with antiseptics;
  • Most often, attaching the layers of a wooden wall requires the installation of chipboard or OSB sheathing.

In addition, you should keep in mind all the indicators of the materials from which the walls are built, such as moisture resistance, thermal conductivity and heat resistance.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation for walls

Before purchasing insulation, you must correctly calculate thickness of the purchased material.

An indicator of the thickness of a material is the result of thermal resistance. The value for each region is different and is determined in accordance with the readings of SNiP.

For the region of the central part of the Eurasian continent it is approximately equal to three.

The thickness of the insulation layer is equal to the difference between this indicator according to SNiP and the total amount of thermal conductivity of each material that is present in the wall.

To determine the thermal conductivity coefficient for each material, use the formula:

P=R/K ,

where R is the thickness of the material, K is an indicator of its thermal conductivity (the manufacturer indicates on the packaging).

After adding all the coefficients, the value is subtracted from three. This results in the thickness of the material required for insulation.

Wall pie device

A wall pie is a collection of layers of materials that are laid vertically in a certain order.

Each layer of the wall pie has its own laying characteristics. If the sequence of layers is disrupted, there is a risk of destruction of the entire structure.

The construction of a wall pie for external insulation must correspond to the order of laying materials, starting from the inside of the walls:

  • interior decoration;
  • internal load-bearing layer (plasterboard, sheathing);
  • vapor barrier (required in frame houses);
  • load-bearing wall;
  • insulation;
  • waterproofing (depending on insulation);
  • sheathing;
  • ventilation gap (depending on the heat insulator);
  • finishing.

Wooden Wall Pie

This scheme for laying materials should be followed if the house is timber, frame or log.

If the wall is brick or aerated concrete, then the wall pie is slightly different:

  • interior decoration;
  • Brick wall;
  • insulation;
  • ventilation gap (if mineral wool is used);
  • load-bearing layer on the outside or sheathing (if it is necessary to install façade materials);
  • finishing (plaster, siding, porcelain stoneware).

"Wet" wall cake

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing for external insulation is necessary when attaching siding as exterior finishing walls. At vertical siding the sheathing is fastened horizontally, and vice versa: with horizontal - vertically.

The sheathing can be made from wooden beams or their metal profile.

Lathing made of beams

Before you start lathing, you need to prepare the beams: treat them with an antifungal agent.

  • saw off the beam of the required size;
  • secure the brackets around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws according to preliminary markings;
  • secure the timber as guides along the right and left sides of the wall;
  • If there is no thermal insulation, then the beam must be attached to the wall by drilling holes for dowels and securing it with self-tapping screws.

Perform lathing along the entire wall; if necessary, level the surface, use special mounting wedges.

Lathing made of beams

Profile lathing

The metal profile should be secured using hangers and brackets.

Installation of metal sheathing:

  • fix the profile on the right side of the wall and on the left so that there is at least 100 mm from the corner to the guide;
  • according to the markings, drill holes for dowels and attach brackets along the entire wall;
  • if thermal insulation is installed, then the insulation boards are pinned onto the brackets;
  • lay a vapor barrier in the same way as insulation;
  • install metal profiles along the edges of the wall;
  • Use a thread to set the height of the profile and secure the profile along the entire wall;
  • between the elements, fasten stiffening ribs from the remains of the profile.

NOTE!

It is better to choose metal profiles for siding with curved edges.

Best to use aluminum profile good quality.

Profile lathing

Why do you need a counter-lattice?

Lathing and counter-lattice are concepts that are often confused. The lathing is necessary for attaching covering elements to it.

The counter-lattice is attached perpendicular to the sheathing and performs the function of ventilation and at the same time secures the water barrier.

Counter battens must be installed in the walls on the sheathing or on the rafters.

The walls of houses equipped with counter-lattice are called ventilated.

With a ventilated facade, the properties of the cake materials are preserved and the formation of moisture and mold is prevented.

Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier

When installing waterproofing outside the wall of a wooden house, it can be done:

  • by applying a special solution to the walls;
  • using additional materials (waterproofing polyurethane foam).

If the wall is brick, then you can use special solutions or resort to an adhesive form of waterproofing: roofing felt. Glue it vertically, overlapping, removing the formed air bubbles and gluing the joints with mastic.

When using decorative facing materials use special plaster waterproofing.

Waterproofing mineral wool

When installing a vapor barrier from the outside, films should be used that protect the wall surface from outside and allow moisture to pass through from the walls.

Installation of vapor barrier films comes down to the following rules:

  • they should be laid between the insulation layer and the wall;
  • provide a gap for ventilation between layers;
  • Lay the film overlapping, glue the joints, secure the film with staples.

If the vapor barrier is installed on round beam, then there is no need to install a ventilation gap. In case of square boards- such a necessity is mandatory.

External wall insulation with mineral wool for siding

For effective wall insulation with mineral wool the surface should be prepared for subsequent installation work : clear debris, seal cracks, remove gutters and other decorative elements, apply markings, attach hangers.

  • laying mineral wool slabs from bottom to top between the guide posts end-to-end, placing the material on the hangers and attaching with dowel nails;
  • seal the cracks with pieces of insulation;
  • cover vapor barrier membrane similar to insulation;
  • attach racks to hangers;
  • then proceed to cladding.

Metal sheathing

This method is suitable for metal profiles.

If wooden beams are used, then insulation with mineral wool is somewhat different:

  • Attach the beams to the prepared wall with corners at a distance of the width of the mineral wool slab;
  • the insulation is laid end-to-end between the posts, secured with a pair of dowels, and the cracks are sealed polyurethane foam;
  • if a second layer of insulation is needed, then counter-battens are attached to the racks and mineral wool slabs are laid between them;
  • a diffusion membrane is attached to the frame with staples;
  • install a counter-lattice, which serves as the basis for fastening the siding panels and creates an air gap in the wall pie.

Wall cake for siding

Fastening mineral wool to the wall with dowels

External insulation technology using foam plastic

To insulate the walls of a private house from the outside, you can use polystyrene foam. The procedure for foam insulation involves the sequence of work performed:

  • preparation of walls (cleaning of debris, sealing cracks, priming);
  • applying the necessary markings;
  • attach a profile at the bottom of the wall, which will serve as the basis for the even laying of the first row of slabs;
  • attach the foam by applying the adhesive solution, starting from the bottom corner. The second row of sheets is fastened in a cross pattern;
  • after the glue has completely dried, secure the foam with umbrellas;
  • The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam, if large, with pieces of polystyrene foam. After hardening, excess foam is cut off;
  • To finish slopes and corners, you should use special corners that are glued to the reinforcing mesh tape.

Laying sheets in a checkerboard pattern

Fastening sheets

CAREFULLY!

It is better not to insulate wooden houses with polystyrene foam., since with breathable wood it is better to use porous insulation that can allow moisture and air vapor to pass through.

In this case, mineral wool is ideal.

Basic insulation mistakes

External insulation of the walls of a country house must be carried out in accordance with the requirements and rules for installing materials. Errors that most often occur during insulation contribute to improper circulation of air flow and the formation of moisture inside the cake, which leads to a weakening of the thermal insulation qualities:

  • incorrect calculation of thermal resistance;
  • if there is no base strip at the bottom of the wall, the insulation may come into contact with the ground;
  • Expanded polystyrene should not be left in the sun for a long time during installation;
  • cracks between insulation boards lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
  • Expansion dowels should be installed at the corners of the building and around doors and windows to securely fasten the material.

In addition, you should not skimp on materials, since in addition to their correct installation, the low quality of the material should not cause poor-quality insulation.

Thus, when insulating walls, the living space is preserved; careful consideration of details is required to calculate the amount of materials and determine the order of installation work.

Useful video

Mineral wool insulation technology in video instructions:

In contact with

Heat loss through the walls of a house can reach 30% of total heat loss Therefore, one of the main stages of thermal insulation of a building is wall insulation. Mineral wool is often chosen as insulation for walls. Mineral wool is made from glass melts, rocks or slag, resins are used as a binding element. The material has a fibrous structure, and, depending on the purpose, the direction of the fibers may be different.

Insulating walls from the outside with mineral wool has a number of advantages:

  • This is a relatively cheap insulation with low thermal conductivity;
  • Mineral insulation has good sound-absorbing characteristics;
  • Mineral wool does not support combustion, so it can be used for insulation of flammable structures;
  • This material is vapor-permeable and does not create the effect of a thermos; the building “breathes”;
  • Mineral wool is easy to install - the insulation is sold in the form of mats or rolls, you can choose the most convenient option;
  • Depending on local conditions, you can choose required thickness insulation;

Mineral wool does not rot and is not susceptible to fungus, microorganisms and rodents.

The disadvantages of mineral wool include its deterioration thermal insulation characteristics when wetted, therefore it must be protected from atmospheric moisture and condensation. In terms of environmental friendliness, mineral insulation, when used under normal conditions, does not pose any danger, since the release of harmful components occurs only when mineral wool is heated to 300 degrees or more.

The choice of insulation thickness is made using thermotechnical calculations, taking into account the thermal conductivity of the wall material, their thickness, as well as the standard thermal resistance of the walls for a particular region. For a simplified calculation, you can use the table.

Technology of wall insulation with mineral wool

  1. Preparing walls for laying insulation depends on the material from which they are built. Wooden walls must be impregnated with an antiseptic to avoid damage to the log house by microorganisms. Areas damaged by rot, fungus, mold must be thoroughly cleaned and soaked with appropriate solutions - after installing the insulation, access to them will be impossible. It is enough to free brick and foam concrete walls from peeling plaster and paint. If the walls are wet, they must be thoroughly dried. Window trims and slopes must be dismantled, and fastenings and decorative elements, which can damage the vapor barrier layer and insulation.
  2. A layer of vapor-permeable membrane is placed under the mineral insulation. The film is positioned so that the vapor-permeable side faces the wall of the house, and the smooth side faces the insulation. A vapor-permeable membrane is necessary to ensure the removal of water vapor from the walls of the house through the insulation. On smooth walls It is allowed to lay mineral insulation without first laying a membrane film.

  3. Wooden guide rails or a profile for attaching drywall are attached on top of the vapor-permeable film. They are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or using a dowel-nail mounting pair. The distance between the slats is chosen so that it is 1-2 centimeters less than the width of the insulation. The thickness of the slats should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Attaching the slats starts from the corner of the house. When attaching the slats, use a level. If the wall is uneven, you can use perforated plasterboard hangers to secure the frame. If you use insulation in the form of mats, you can additionally attach a horizontal strip along the lower border of the wall, on which the lower insulation mat will be installed.

  4. Thermal insulating mats or rolled material are placed in the space between the guide rails, while laying the mats begins from the bottom, and roll materials- from above, fixing the insulation to the wall either directly between the slats, or using several dowels with a wide head. Plate material to brick or block walls They are attached with a special glue that ensures a tight fit of the insulation. There should be no gaps between the insulation and the guides. First secure whole pieces insulation, then fill the remaining areas around the windows and doorways.

  5. On top mineral insulation put another layer of film - wind protection and waterproofing. The film must also be vapor-permeable so that moisture can be easily removed from the insulation layer to the outside. The film is fastened with staples to the slats without tension, after which the entire layer of insulation and vapor barrier is additionally secured to the wall using dowels with a wide head, the attachment points for better waterproofing Can be sealed with metallic tape.

  6. An important stage in wall insulation is the installation of a ventilated façade. The ventilation gap should be at least 5-6 cm; for this, additional counter-battens are placed on top of the guides or profiles are attached on which the ventilated facade is mounted: siding, block house or other finishing materials.

  7. When insulating the walls from the outside, their thickness increases, so you will have to install new ones window slopes, window sills, as well as platbands and finishing elements. It is better to purchase them immediately when purchasing a ventilated facade.

Insulating walls outside with mineral wool is one of the most popular methods of thermal insulation of buildings. Its popularity is due to the low thermal conductivity of mineral wool, due to which most of the heat remains inside the building, as well as the environmental friendliness of the material and its ability to remove moisture from inside the house. In addition, mineral wool is an excellent sound insulator.

To reduce the costs associated with heating your home, it is definitely worth investing in wall insulation. Before delving into the search for a team of façade designers, it is advisable to prepare properly. Here is a list of the most common mistakes that can be made when insulating a house.

Absence or poorly executed wall insulation project

The main task of the project is to determine the optimal thermal insulation material (mineral wool or polystyrene foam) and its thickness in accordance with building codes. Also, a pre-prepared house insulation project gives the customer the opportunity to clearly control the work performed by contractors, for example, the layout of insulation sheets and the number of fasteners on square meter, and workarounds window openings, as well as much more.

Carrying out work at temperatures below 5° or above 25°, or during precipitation

The consequence of this is that the glue between the insulation and the base dries too quickly, as a result of which the adhesion between the layers of the wall insulation system is not reliable.

Ignoring site preparation

The contractor must protect all windows from dirt by covering them with film. In addition, (especially when insulating large buildings) it is good if the scaffolding is covered with a mesh, which will protect the insulated facade from excessive sunlight and wind, allowing finishing materials dry more evenly.

Insufficient surface preparation

Surface insulated wall must have sufficient bearing capacity and be smooth, level and free of dust to ensure good adhesion for the adhesive. Uneven plaster and any other defects must be corrected. It is unacceptable to leave mold, efflorescence, etc. residues on insulated walls. Of course, it is necessary to first eliminate the cause of their occurrence and remove them from the wall.

No starting bar

Using installationbase profile The level of the bottom layer of insulation is set. Also, this bar takes on part of the load from the weight of the heat-insulating material. And, in addition, such a strip helps protect the lower end of the insulation from the penetration of rodents

There should be a gap of about 2-3 mm between the slats.

Installation of slabs is not staggered.

A common problem is the appearance of gaps between slabs.

The insulation slabs must be installed carefully and tightly in a checkerboard pattern, that is, offset by half the length of the slab from bottom to top, starting from the corner wall.

Incorrect application of glue

It is incorrect when gluing is carried out only by applying “bloopers” and does not apply a layer of glue along the perimeter of the sheet. The consequence of such gluing may be the bending of the insulation boards or the marking of their outline on the final finishing of the insulated facade.

Options for correctly applying glue to foam:

  1. along the perimeter in the form of stripes with a width of 4-6 cm. On the remaining surface of the insulation - dotted “bloopers” (from 3 to 8 pieces). The total adhesive area should cover at least 40% of the foam sheet;
  2. applying glue to the entire surface with a ridge spatula - used only if the walls are pre-plastered.

Note: the adhesive solution is applied only to the surface of the thermal insulation, never to the base.

Bonding mineral cotton wool requires preliminary puttying of the slab surface Thin layer cement mortar rubbed into the surface of the mineral wool.

Insufficient fastening of thermal insulation to the load-bearing surface

This may be the result of careless application of adhesive, the use of materials with inappropriate parameters, or too weak mechanical fastening. Mechanical connections are all kinds dowels and anchors . Do not skimp on the mechanical fastening of insulation, be it heavy mineral wool or lightweight foam.

The place where the dowel is attached must coincide with the place where the glue (bucket) is applied to the inside insulation

The dowels must be properly embedded in the insulation. Pressing too deeply leads to damage to the insulation boards and the formation of a cold bridge. Too small and it will cause a bulge that will be visible on the façade.


Leaving thermal insulation unprotected from weather conditions.

Exposed mineral wool easily absorbs water, and polystyrene foam in the sun is subject to surface erosion, which can impair the adhesion of wall insulation layers. Thermal insulation materials must be protected from weather influences, such as when they are stored in construction site, and when they are used for wall insulation. Walls insulated with mineral wool must be protected by a roof to prevent them from getting wet by rain - because if this happens they will dry very slowly and wet insulation is not effective. Walls insulated with foam plastic cannot be exposed to prolonged exposure to direct sun rays. By long-term we mean more than 2-3 months.

Incorrect laying of insulation boards in the corners of openings

To insulate walls in the corners of window or door openings, the insulation must be cut appropriately so that the intersection of the slabs does not occur at the corners of the openings. This, of course, significantly increases the amount of waste thermal insulation material, but can significantly reduce the risk of cracks in the plaster in these places.


Not sanding the glued foam layer

This operation takes a long time and is quite labor intensive. For this reason, it is not popular among contractors. As a result, curvature may form on the facade.

Mistakes when laying fiberglass mesh

The reinforcing layer of wall insulation provides protection from mechanical damage. It is made from fiberglass mesh and reduces thermal deformation, increases strength and prevents the formation of cracks.

The mesh must be completely immersed in the adhesive layer. It is important that the mesh is glued without folds. We also do not recommend using cheap Chinese meshes. They are not alkali-resistant, which will lead, over time, to corrosion by the solution, which means the plaster layer will not be sufficiently protected from temperature and mechanical deformation.

In places vulnerable to loads, an additional layer of reinforcement is performed - in all corners of window and door openings, mesh strips measuring at least 35x25 are glued at an angle of 45°. This prevents cracks from forming in the corners of openings.

To strengthen the corners of the house - usedcorner profiles with mesh .



Not filling the seams between the insulation

The result is the formation of cold bridges. To fill gaps up to 4 mm wide, usepolyurethane foam for facades .

Not using a primer before a layer of decorative plaster

Some people mistakenly apply finishing decorative plaster directly to the mesh layer, refusingspecial primer . This results in improper bondingdecorative plaster , the appearance of gray gaps from the glue, and a rough surface insulated facade. In addition, after a few years, such plaster cracks and falls off in pieces.

Mistakes when applying decorative plaster

Thin-film plasters can be performed after 3 days from the date of completion of the reinforcing layer.

The work must be organized so that the team works without interruption on at least 2 or 3 levels of scaffolding. This prevents the appearance of uneven color on the facade due to its drying at different times.