Cement-sand tiles have a lot of weight, so at the design stage it is necessary to lay increased foundation strength, load-bearing walls and rafter system. Laying tiles is possible on any type of roof; the recommended slope angle is 22 – 60°.
The rafter system of a tiled roof must be durable. The distance is determined project documentation, depends on the design load and the length of the rafters, taking into account the climatic region of the building's location, snow and wind loads, and the total weight of the roofing.
How longer distance between the rafters, the thicker the sheathing beam will be needed. The recommended rafter cross-section is at least 50*150 mm.
Before installing the sheathing, the plane of the rafters is leveled: fluctuations in surface unevenness should be within the range of -5 to +5 mm per 2 m.
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Laying waterproofing
A waterproofing membrane or film is laid on top of the rafters parallel to the eaves overhang front side(with logo) up. The rolls begin to roll out from the bottom and move up without pulling tightly, leaving the membrane between the rafters to sag by 1–2 cm.
The size of the overlap of one roll on another is usually indicated by dotted lines on the film and is 10 cm. If the slope is steep, then the overlap is increased to 15–20 cm and the membrane is glued with double-sided tape.
The waterproofing materials are secured to the rafters with a stapler, and then with counter-lattice bars.
It is unacceptable to make cuts or tears in the film; folds are also undesirable. If the angle of inclination of the slope is less than 16°, then a solid base is made under the central tile, on which.
Installation of counter-lattice
A counter-lattice is mounted on top of the film on the rafters - bars 30 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. They are nailed one after the other not closely, a distance of 5–10 cm is left between them for free air circulation and ventilation.
At the ridge, the ends of the counter-lattice bars from the two slopes are cut off and tightly joined.
Installation of sheathing
For the sheathing, bars 3–5 cm thick are used. The location of the first bar from the eaves depends on how much the tiles will hang over the drainage system.
The sheathing pitch can be from 31 to 35 cm, the exact value is indicated in the accompanying documentation by the manufacturer and depends on the angle of inclination of the slope.
The cornice is the most visible place of the roof, important from a functional and decorative point of view:
The metal dropper is mounted on the eaves board, it total length equal to the length of the slope plus 0.3 m on each side. Overlap waterproofing membrane make at least 15 cm on the cornice, it is left on top of the drip bar. An open ventilation gap is provided under the eaves board.
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To distribute the load cement-sand tiles During the work process, 5-6 pieces of it are first laid out on the roof, evenly placing the stacks along the slope.
Laying tiles in rows along the roof is done from bottom to top from right to left. The first and final rows of tiles are first laid out without fastening, and markings are made from them using a dye cord. Fastening is carried out using galvanized self-tapping screws into special holes, without tightening the fasteners until they stop.
Fastening with self-tapping screws to the sheathing is carried out only for those elements of the tiles that are located in the outer rows along the perimeter, as well as trimmed parts near the valleys. If the slope of the slope is steep (over 60°), then all the tiles are secured with self-tapping screws, regardless of their location.
Waterproofing at the junction of the slopes is done more carefully: first, a roll is rolled out along the gutter from top to bottom, then the film rolls are overlapped from one slope to another.
In addition to the main lathing, two more types of it are packed on top of the film:
Aluminum valley elements are installed along the gutter from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm and attached to wooden blocks using staples. Foam rubber seals are installed along the valley elements.
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The ridge elements of cement-sand tiles are installed after completion of all other types of work.
Special holders are mounted on top of the connection of the slopes, and in them there is a ridge block, which is covered with insulating sealing tape with ventilation holes. Then the ridge tiles are sequentially “fitted” onto the beam.
The individual ridge elements cling to one another using special clamps, which are attached to the beam with self-tapping screws. The end caps are fixed with stainless steel self-tapping screws.
Compliance with the installation technology of cement-sand tiles will ensure the durability of the roof and save it from leaks.
Every day, environmentally friendly, strong and durable ceramic tiles are becoming more and more popular in Russia and other CIS countries. Until recently, such roofing was in demand only in Europe, and in our country there were often either metal or bitumen shingles, rather ineptly imitating the real thing. What changed? Import to the foreign market natural tiles, with improved geometry and stunning design!
A house with such a coating looks so advantageous against the background of surrounding buildings that today there are a lot of people who want to study installation ceramic tiles and make the roof of your new family nest real armor. And now we will reveal to you all the technical secrets!
Depending on which tiles you choose for your roof, the complexity of its installation will depend. We have prepared for you detailed master classes, how to work with each type, what additional tools are needed and what you will encounter in the process.
Here's how different the installation of the five most popular types of ceramic tiles is:
Today, tiles with a lock are actively produced. In their upper part there is a moving zone, or displacement zone. Thanks to it, rows of tiles can be moved along the slope, and the tightness of the roof is not compromised at all. This is very convenient if ceramic tiles are transferred to a new roof, which has a completely different sheathing pitch - the covering can be easily adjusted.
The groove tiles have special spikes on the back side, and they are used to hook it to the sheathing during installation. In practice, everything is quite simple!
Here's how to properly install interlocking shingles:
Another beautiful and popular type of tile is beaver tail, or beaver. According to the configuration of the lower edge, I make it semicircular, rectangular and triangular. It does not have locks, only a profiled spike on the bottom of the tile, which is attached to the batten.
Due to the absence of locks, such tiles are ideal for roofs with complex shapes, even with bull's-eye hatches. Moreover, the beaver is small, and much more material will be spent here per 1m2. Additionally, flat tiles are secured with self-tapping screws or nails; for this purpose, two holes are initially provided in them.
By the way, of all ceramic types of roofing, this tile is most suitable for cone-shaped and unusually shaped roofs. Moreover, there is no need to sacrifice the design idea, hiding the rounded edges somewhere for the sake of simplifying installation. In fact, the more symmetrical such a substructure is, the more stylish the final result will be.
Your main task is to ensure that the height of the rafters is the same. To do this, such part of the area must be supported by special supports. You will also need high-quality under-roof insulation with an increased level of protection. Don’t skimp on the sheathing either, and the larger the pitch of the rafters, the more frequent it should be, and nowhere should the distance exceed 30 cm.
Use a tile cutting machine to trim the slabs at the top and bottom where necessary. When laying, the side overlap should be 3.5 cm, and one large tile should overlap three small ones, and so the turret is laid to the very top. Moreover, it is important that the rows are independent of each other.
In fact, most of the tiles you will have are of normal width, but there will also be some that are adjusted to balance all the rows:
Let's move on to the most textured tiles - S-shaped, cross section which resembles the letter “S”. On the back side you will find hooks that hook the tiles to the sheathing slats. Thanks to them, the tiles are movable, the rows can be moved and moved apart at intervals of 2 to 4 cm. By the way, do not confuse such tiles with grooved locking tiles, which also resemble S-shape, but has profiled locks.
One of the most beautiful and popular S-shaped tiles is Mediterranean:
A traditional S-shaped tile, a true classic is the munch-nunn, or “monk-nun.” It consists of two parts, the upper one is called the “monk”, and the lower one is called the “nun”.
Such tiles must be secured using special clamps (clasps) or strong wire.
The roof will turn out to be quite heavy, but self-ventilated; when insulating the roof, there will be no need to leave a special gap. True, laying such tiles is not easy; skill is required, and therefore modern manufacturers They produce grooved tiles that effectively imitate Munch-nunn, are easy to install, and at the same time retain an antique flavor.
Now let's study the technology of laying ceramic tiles on roof slopes. There are many points here!
When purchasing ceramic tiles, find out what additional elements you will need: ridge and ridge tiles, ventilation strips and much more. It's good if you have it in your hands detailed project such a roof.
We advise you to accurately calculate the required quantity before purchasing the selected tile. The fact is that even in one working day of the plant, batches of roofing ceramics are produced with quite noticeable different shades. Literally 1-2 degrees more - and the color is more saturated, a little less glaze - a different iridescence. Therefore, if it suddenly turns out that there are not enough tiles, finding exactly the same color will be difficult, and sometimes impossible.
This distinguishes ceramics from cement-sand tiles, which are painted according to one catalog, and which can even be specially produced to order. Therefore, take it with a reserve - whole copies will be needed in the future, when you need to repair the roof.
You need to calculate the tiles as follows: usually it is 9-12 pieces for each square meter of roofing (check with your chosen manufacturer for more details). Divide your roof into equal geometric shapes and calculate the area of each. Now count the number of tiles for each. Then sum and multiply by a factor of 0.1.
Just don’t confuse the sequence: first the number of tiles for each slope, then their sum. After all, there is a fairly common mistake when simply summing up the areas of figures and then selecting the quantity. So you will have a shortage! After all, do not forget that on the ridges you will need to trim the tiles, and it is not a fact that the fragments will be needed somewhere else.
So, as bars for the rafter system for ceramic tiles, take those with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm. Maintain the pitch of the rafter legs at 60-90 cm, calculating it using special roof load tables. Your main task is to maintain the bending strength of the entire rafter system, and therefore take into account the total weight of the tiles themselves, snow and wind exposure and random factors, like a person moving on the roof.
Now it is important to correctly place the ridge rail. To do this, mark in advance on the counter beam Right place, so that before the beginning of this rail there is from 35 to 45 mm from the top point, depending on the angle of the roof slope. And if your slope does not exceed 6 meters in length, then lay a counter beam 24 mm thick, and if the slope is from 6 to 12 meters - 28 mm thick. If your roof has slopes more than 12 meters long, then you need timber 40 mm thick, and don’t skimp on it.
Be especially careful with the top bars of the sheathing. They should not be too close to the ridge, otherwise the air outlet from the under-roof space will be blocked. Here correct device roofs:
The next step is to lay a vapor-permeable membrane, quite dense, with a horizontal overlap of 150 mm. Attach a counter beam to it, which should eventually connect at the ridge part. To successfully determine the distance between the counter-battens, lay out a double row of 12 tiles on the ground in advance, with the top side offset vertically.
Make sure all front folds interlock. Now you need to sum up the dimensions for placement and offset between the first and last tiles, and divide by 20. Typically, the average pitch of the slats is 36 cm + - 3 cm.
Now pull the cord in a straight line to create a level for the next slats. There is also a popular “dog” device for this purpose, with which the first counterbeam is traced from the overhang, and all other slats are laid at the same distance. Moreover, you can arrange the overhang itself in the following three options:
If everything is ready, you can move on to the next step. See what this kind of sheathing looks like in practice, with a profiled metal overhang:
Let's move on to laying the tiles themselves. Check the width of the roof for symmetry, and begin installing the tiles from right to left from the end of the slope. Most often, such tiles are fastened with nails through pre-drilled holes, with clamps, locks, and even polyurethane foam(Western practice).
If you are at a loss as to exactly what to do, follow the manufacturer’s instructions (usually this is written about and even illustrated). Even more: if you violate these instructions, the roofing warranty will not apply.
Typically, ceramic tiles are fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter, in a checkerboard pattern, and even each, if the project so provides - it all depends on the slope of the roof. Often, the manufacturer makes special non-through holes on the tiles for this purpose that do not allow water to pass through.
If you need to make them through, then drill them and fix them with self-zero. Keep in mind that such installation is labor-intensive, and the drills quickly become dull. Fortunately, today there are many models of tiles in which technological holes can be easily punched with the screw itself, and there is no need to drill them.
And every third tile must be secured with an anti-wind clip. Today, the clamps themselves are produced against wind and special ones to secure the tiles in the area of the ridge and valley. Be sure to install such clamps on the end slopes. For this purpose, a bundle of clamps is taken with you to the roof and used during the installation process:
Let us dwell separately on anti-wind clasps (clasps). For millennia, humanity has been improving the technology of ceramic tile roofing in order to achieve its reliability and high performance. Although, it would seem, what else can you come up with? After all we're talking about about a hard shard!
How exactly to lay it differently, or secure it differently? In fact, there are ways. For example, manufacturers have come up with special anti-wind clips so that ceramic roofing not only withstands all the elements of nature, but also literally remains intact even during serious hurricanes.
Here are the standard clamps for fixing flat and cut tiles:
Moreover, you can easily cope with such additional fasteners yourself. Here is an example when the clasp is simply bent by hand:
And to work with such a clamp you will need a hammer:
Remember also that you still need to think about where exactly you will place the ventilation shingles. So, if your roof is up to 4.5 meters long, you don’t need these (or at your request), if it’s longer, then:
Ventilation tiles are significantly different from ordinary ones, so you won’t confuse them.
We move on to the ridge and ridges. In these places, universal holders (usually supplied from the manufacturer) must be installed on the counterbeam and secured using self-tapping screws. Such holders are usually adjustable in height, and the height itself depends on the angle of inclination of the slope and ranges from 9 to 11 cm.
At this stage, consider the ventilation of the ridge space. For this purpose, sealing tape with holes is now available; ridge strips are also suitable. ventilation grates. Secure the ridge tiles with a special bracket, which is also included in the kit.
When working with the chimney, use a special corrugated self-adhesive material. You will have to cut some of the tiles to lay them in front of the chimney. In this case, be sure to process the edges that will meet the metal strips, wall or roofing films. In the place where the insulation will be adjacent to the chimney, secure the clamping strip. In its upper part you need to treat the seam with a colorless sealant.
If the length of the wall adjacent to the roof is more than 3 meters, then deepen the bottom strip to the sheathing 15 mm downwards, in depth. This way you will increase the depth of the side wall, and then it will be easy for you to achieve the desired density of the cladding. Secure the lower junction strip to the sheathing using clamps. If you are not comfortable working with regular tiles here, use half tiles - this type is also available. And close it with two-wave.
Working with a ridge is almost no different from working with a ridge. Here the last tile needs to be trimmed and try to fit as perfectly as possible to the rib. And here, too, ventilation is needed, so ventilation tiles are installed on the ridge.
All spine shingles must be cut in a straight line that is parallel to the spine. Moreover, do not cut the tiles on the roof, because sawdust will fly off, and these can damage the surface of the tiles. A grinder with a diamond cutting disc will help you with this. After this, secure the rail to the ridge and lay the ventilation tape:
When the tile is ready, lay it on the ridge, and close the junction of the lines with a tee - this is another type of ceramic tile, which is called hip tile.
It is also important to take care of the valley. Even before laying the waterproofing, the internal joint of the roof needs to be strengthened edged boards. When laying, its width must be at least 35 cm from the center of the valley.
Secure the bars with self-tapping screws with rubber sealing to avoid leaks. To secure the valley gutter, the sheathing should be cut to 15 mm in depth. The width of the valley itself depends on the length of the internal roof joint. Also be aware of these points:
In the area of the valley you need to trim the tiles to the right size. Also, such tiles need to be drilled and secured with a special clamp made of acid-resistant steel. Here is a good video tutorial on how to arrange such a valley correctly and avoid annoying mistakes:
Also, if the valley exceeds 6 meters in length, ventilation tiles will be needed.
It is not uncommon for ceramic tiles to be installed on a stylish home with additional elements such as dormers, especially skylights. In this place, as well as around the chimney, you need to strengthen the counter-lattice. In the upper part of the arc it is placed on minimum distance 363 mm, and if the slope is straight, then the counter beam needs to be moved apart maximum distance 369 mm.
Installing ceramic tiles on a dormer window is quite difficult, but if you wish, you can figure it out. To do this, find the extreme points at an angle of 90°, and transfer them along the roof slope to the uppermost counter beam of the roof. In each prepared tile you need to make two drilled holes to secure with self-tapping screws.
If the dormer window is located at the edge of the overhang, which is slightly raised, then drain pipes must be installed.
To lay ceramic tiles on a roof hatch, a so-called roofing wedge is used - a special set of 17 elements that are laid in 10 rows. It's so easy to create a cone-shaped surface.
Believe me, when the roof of your house is ready, you will feel an incomparable sense of satisfaction. After all, now the roof will serve you for at least half a century, and it was you who completed the construction of your house, laid every tile with your own hands, and this is what makes the house – a Home.
No other roofing covering can compare with the look of ceramic tiles on a circular sheathing. Often it is purchased precisely in order to complete some beautiful architectural object. Moreover, installation on such rafters is actually not difficult.
Installation begins from the bottom up, as in working with ordinary tiles. Each subsequent one is laid with an overlap on the underlying and side ones. Only here, each successive tile decreases in width from row to row, and each row already consists of fewer and fewer elements. As a result, they all converge at the same top point of the roof:
And believe me, the magnificent view of such a roof is worth any effort!
For many centuries, the color, shape and texture of tiles were for many peoples a kind of architectural ideal for roof covering. And our ancestors couldn’t have been wrong for so many years. The tiles, thanks to their scaly surface, withstand the vagaries of the natural elements and at the same time are pleasing to the eye. Done correctly tiled roof even after a century it does not give up its positions.
The roof with tiles is popular because... has a presentable appearance, and good performance characteristics.
The technology of laying tiles consists only in the fact that the tiles of the lower row must be covered with tiles of the upper row - this is the whole “trick”, and in this case you will get an airtight roof. You can find out all other details from professionals in this matter. Otherwise, the shingles may be mistakenly discredited, and they do not deserve that. In this article you will receive information about the features of laying this material in order to assess the complexity and labor intensity of the work yourself before turning to specialists for help.
The most important criteria Low porosity and high density are indicators of quality tiles. Pores in large quantities contribute to high water absorption and, as a result, a decrease in the frost resistance of tiles. Moreover, the pores should predominantly be closed.
When choosing a material for roofing with tiles, you should remember that the structure of the tiles when scrapped should be uniform, non-laminated. The tiles should be well-fired and, when lightly tapped, produce a rattling-free, clear sound. In addition, there should be no limescale inclusions in the tiles.
Any tile - both cement-sand and ceramic - has a large mass: one square m of covering weighs 40-50 kg, and this figure varies depending on the shape of the tile and the slope of the roof. For this reason, molded ordinary tiles with a tooth-shaped protrusion in the upper part on the back side, which is designed for fastening to the sheathing beam, can easily stand under the weight of their own weight.
But good roofers do not trust only these fasteners. Today's tile roofing technology is thoughtful and reliable down to the details; it has everything you need and not a single extra detail.
Snow guards for the roof will prevent snow from falling from the roof and prevent possible injuries.
In addition to the tiles themselves that make up the roof surface, manufacturers usually provide a full set of component elements, the number of which increases with the complexity of the roof geometry: wall tiles, half tiles, side tiles (right and left), cornice tiles (edge and row), corner tiles (external and internal) , ventilation, etc.
A separate kit is provided for the ridge, when, in addition to the grooved ridge tiles themselves, the initial and end elements (mainly decorative), sculptural details for decoration and hip joints are included. Installing shingles with this variety will allow roofers to avoid having to adjust and file tiles into place.
In order to more thoroughly treat the junction points and protect other important areas of the roof from moisture seepage when laying tiles, a set of the following components is used: corrugated tape with bitumen mastic, airtight ridge tape (for attic and mansard roofs), impregnated foam rubber seals for valleys, anti-bird curtain rod ventilation tape and much more. They are made, as a rule, from high-quality and corrosion-resistant materials: aluminum, copper, tin. To fasten the tiles, there are steel wire clamps, which have a special design for edged tiles. The skates are secured using clamps made of painted aluminum sheets. For ridge beam special fasteners are provided.
Accessories deserve special attention. First of all, these are snow-retaining elements (in the form of hooks, separate shelves or steps along the entire length of the slope, preventing damage to drainage systems and avalanche-like snow), devices for, for ventilation channels (ceramic heads, etc.).
Since the type of roof is selected before the design begins, the rafter structure must take into account the approximate loads from the tiles themselves, from wind and snow. Usually this is reflected only in a decrease in the pitch of the rafters (the calculated load for a tile roof is only 20-25% greater than for a metal roof).
Installation and installation of ceramic tile roofing.
The cross-section and pitch of the sheathing are calculated after the customer has contacted the company that supplies the selected model with a roof project in sketch. Collateral correct installation are correct calculations and correct installation battens. In most cases, leading manufacturers develop calculation tables and recommendations for each type of tile, taking into account the length of the slope, the slope of the roof, and the length of possible overlap. The supplier’s specialists calculate the required amount of tiles, components and additional elements that will be needed for the roof, and in some cases provide services for adjusting the project for a certain type of material.
Under tiles it is recommended to be 22-60 degrees. In exceptional cases, it is allowed to reduce the angle of inclination to 10 degrees, which requires additional measures for ventilation and waterproofing. The technology in this situation is as follows: a continuous flooring is used, along the rafters along which a counter-batten with a trapezoidal cross-section is stuffed, on top of which roll bitumen-polymer waterproofing is glued and directed, and only after that the sheathing is mounted.
The most optimal for laying tiles is considered to be a slope slope of about 40 degrees. This way, raindrops from getting under the roof are virtually eliminated even with a strong gust of wind. When the roof slope is more than 60 degrees, additional fastening of each individual tile to the sheathing is provided (using clamps or screws), which increases the time and cost of roof installation work.
Usually the lathing is made of wooden blocks with a section of 6x4 or 5x5 cm, its lowest row is made of boards 10 cm wide.
Since the tiles have a horizontal lock with play (certain models allow the tiles to move vertically by an average of 30 mm), individual elements able to move freely. For this reason, the coating can, without damaging the structure, receive deformations caused by the influence of temperature changes, strong gusts of wind, shaking, settlement of the structure, etc.
If a habitable space under the roof is planned, additional measures need to be taken. To maintain thermal insulation properties, the insulation that is placed between the rafters must be reliably protected. WITH inside this is ensured by a vapor barrier film, with outside– under-roof insulation, which is spread horizontally over the rafters with an overlap and is fixed along them using a counter-lattice.
Before starting work on laying tiles, all roofing and tin work must be completed and attic ventilation must be installed.
The technology allows installation alone due to the small size of the tiles. Usually the first two rows are laid standing on scaffolding or scaffolding. Then the roofer performs the work while sitting on a triangular bench attached to the sheathing for safety reasons.
Installation always starts from the lower right corner of the roof, moving from the right side to the left. Every fourth tile is attached to the surface of the coating, and along the ridges and cornices, near ventilation devices, openings, chimneys and with a slope of more than 60 degrees - each tile.
The tiles are laid either in columns with vertical seams preserved, or in a checkerboard pattern with bandaging.
The method of laying strip tiles involves laying them in parallel rows, each odd row is finished with whole tiles, and the even row is finished with halves. The result is such a displacement of the tiles relative to each other, in which each upper brick covers the junction of the two underlying ones. Besides aesthetically pleasing, it is also reliable.
Laying tiles belt method gives the roof not only aesthetics, but also additional reliability.
For aesthetic reasons, flat tiles are laid with a large vertical overlap. There can be a single overlap (with a single-layer roof) or a double overlap (as a result of which a two- or even three-layer coating is formed, since the lower rows overlap the upper ones by more than half the length of the tile). In the second case, more material is consumed per square meter and the roof is more expensive, despite the relatively low price of the tiles themselves, than when using tiles of standard shapes.
Due to the lack of a lock at the joints of adjacent tiles, their side edges can be trimmed. This makes it possible to use flat tiles to lay out curved surfaces, such as the conical end of a tower.
Tape tiles differ from flat tiles in that the former has a longitudinal groove designed for more durable fastening of elements.
For simple pitched roofs groove tiles are used. It is laid in single-layer parallel rows with an overlap in the direction from the pediment along the cornice to the ridge: in length - by 0.7-0.8 cm, in width - by the width of the groove.
Features of stamped groove tiles include the presence of not only longitudinal, but also transverse flaps. Therefore, the technology for installing this type of tile involves fastening each tile to each other along the entire perimeter with closed folds that prevent water from penetrating under the covering. Such tiles are laid in a single layer in the direction from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap along the length and width of the tile by the length or width of the rebate.
Particular care must be taken in installing and securely fastening pieces of tiles cut diagonally (in abutments, valley ridges, hip ridges, etc.).
The quality of laying the tiles can be checked this way: you need to look at the diagonals of the largest slope. They should look like a straight line.
Even at the design stage of building a house, it is worth deciding on the roofing covering and the angle of the roof, since for each type, manufacturers indicate the limit value at which installation can be carried out. Most often, for ceramic tiles, the recommendations indicate an angle of 20° - 60° degrees, but the same type of tile may differ from different manufacturers - this depends on the location and shape of the hooks. You also need to remember that the rafter system serves as the basis for the roof, so it is necessary to correctly calculate its strength. Read on in our article to learn how to properly install ceramic tiles and learn all the intricacies of the technology for laying them.
As mentioned above, laying ceramic tiles is possible on slopes with different slopes; it is only important to observe General requirements installation, depending on the specific manufacturer.
The installation of ceramic tiles is carried out in such a way that the resulting coating becomes very rigid, but at the same time elastic - like scales that perfectly adapt to the shaped shape of the roof, various deformations or shifts in the supporting base.
Ceramic tiles- This is a piece and very heavy roofing material. Depending on the type of tile, the weight of one element can reach 3.5-3.7 kg, and the total weight of a square meter of roofing ranges from 30 to 75 kg.
It is thanks to this massiveness that it remains very stable on the roof, creating an excellent soundproofing barrier.
The significant weight of the material provides a reliable rafter structure that can withstand significant external loads. When the choice is made, then at the design stage of the building construction, a significant strengthening of the rafters by 15-25% should be provided.
The finished roof structure covered with ceramic tiles is 5 times heavier than a metal roofing and almost 10 times heavier.
To wood used in rafter system, have a special requirement - this is ideal drying, which will avoid significant deformation of the roof during operation.
The load calculation is carried out taking into account the peculiarities of the angle of inclination of the roof, possible snow, wind and rain loads for of this region, further maintenance and the ability to withstand heavy material.
The roof structure used for ceramic tiles must withstand a load of at least 250 kg per square meter.
It is generally accepted to install this roof on a rigid base, so the board cladding must have adequate strength. When arranging a residential attic, they use cladding made of boards covered with a layer of waterproofing film or super-diffuse membrane.
Installation of natural tiles has characteristics, in which it is worth taking into account the design cross-section of the rafters (the optimal cross-section of the timber is 70 x 150 mm), the step taken when installing them (800-900 mm), the wooden sheathing and the further laying of the “roofing pie”.
The roof frame does not have a noticeable effect on other elements - the mauerlat, crossbars, racks, so there is no significant change in the size of these elements. When laying tiles, it is worth considering the angle of inclination roof slope– as it increases, the pitch between the rafters expands.
If attic floor It is planned to be used as a living space, it needs to be insulated. Best used for this mineral wool based on basalt fiber. This thermal insulation material has long proven its excellent qualities in the field of energy saving, heat and ecology. In addition, it has a number of other advantages.
Mineral wool based on basalt fiber:
On the inside of the insulation, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer made of polyethylene on a fabric basis and reinforced with reinforcing mesh. The width of the heat-insulating layer placed between the rafters must be no less than their height.
Next they lay waterproofing layer, in which gaps are left for ventilation of the under-roof space - this will provide protection wooden elements roofs, and water vapor or atmospheric moisture will freely escape outside.
Before starting work, the tiles are packaged along the entire perimeter of the roof slope - small stacks of 4-6 pieces are placed to prevent the occurrence of uneven loads.
Packaging of tiles on slopes
A layer of tiles is placed on top of the mounted frame, starting from the eaves overhang - from the bottom to the upper ridge of the roof, moving from left to right. This installation will allow you to obtain a durable and rigid coating, since the top row of tiles will press the bottom one.
Modern tiles have profiled hooks on the back side - grooves that are located in the vertical and horizontal direction. Thanks to this arrangement, the tiles are laid on the sheathing slats and secured with the grooves of the adjacent elements.
The resulting lock has a small gap - backlash, which allows it to move a few millimeters. This movement helps to perceive compression and expansion well. roofing structure due to seasonal changes in weather conditions.
When laying tiles, every third element is secured - if the roof slope is more than 60 degrees, then each tile is secured.
The first thing to do is to fix the gable tiles using nails, wire or staples, and also securely fasten the elements around chimneys, hatches, bay windows and roof windows. In all subsequent rows The tiles are fixed in a checkerboard pattern.
Ridge tiles are placed along the ridge, with a sealing and ventilation tape laid underneath - it allows condensation to drain outside and prevents snow or rainwater from getting under the covering.
Ceramic tile fastening diagram
Previously, ridge tiles were laid on the mortar, thereby providing rigid fastening and protection from external atmospheric influences, but now it is mounted using special metal brackets.
Manufacturers provide a guarantee for ceramic tiles for a period of 15 to 50 years. It is worth noting that warranty service does not apply to tiles damaged mechanically or in cases where the design part of the roof structure, as well as installation and laying of tiles performed without following the manufacturer's recommendations.
A tiled roof does not require careful and constant maintenance, as it is a very durable and strong material, but even it is susceptible to the destructive effects of the environment.
In places of increased air pollution, especially near industrial enterprises, a black coating forms on the tiles, which destroys the top layer, so for this area it is more advisable to choose tiles with an engobe or glazed coating. 
Over time, the tiles darken naturally, becoming covered with a noble patina, but the engobes and glaze almost do not change their natural shade.
Green plaque - overgrown with moss, forms in shady areas, most often on the north side, due to insufficient sunlight or lack of proper drainage of rainwater from the roof slope. This type of contamination can be removed using special preparations or a stiff brush.
Important! It is always necessary to have a supply of tiles after completing installation work– this will allow you to replace damaged elements and eliminate the possibility of changing the shape or color of the model with an additional purchase.
As you can see, laying natural tiles is a rather labor-intensive and lengthy process. To cover the roof yourself, you will need at least 2-3 people with certain construction skills and the ability to work with tools.
Installation of ceramic tiles is a complex process for a person without experience, requiring reinforcement of the roof truss structure. Ceramic tiles weigh ten times more than metal tiles, since their base is clay. Any mistakes when laying roofing material can lead to serious problems, so it is better to entrust all work to professionals. But if you are confident in yourself and your abilities, then first read the instructions for installing ceramic tiles given in this article.
Remember the basic rules for installing ceramic tiles, which will simplify your work:
Use the table to determine the number of tiles. Useful width and length are the dimensions of the tiles. Measure the roof area and make the appropriate calculations.
Many people have a question: “Is it necessary to cover the roof with ceramic tiles?” After all, it is difficult to install, and this process is labor-intensive, because you need to lay one element at a time. It is much easier and faster to cover the roof with ondulin or metal tiles. Let's try to answer this question.
Here are the benefits of ceramic tiles that make some home owners use them as a roofing material:
Flaws:
Whether to use ceramic tiles or not is your choice. Compare all the advantages and disadvantages, compare them with others roofing materials and make the right choice!
