For high-quality finishing bathroom or toilet room it is necessary to dismantle all extraneous elements that interfere with finishing. It is worth understanding that dismantling plumbing fixtures is mandatory not only for convenience, but also in order to preserve their integrity. After finishing repair work The question arises: how to install a toilet on tiles?
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There are several methods for installing a toilet on ceramic tiles. But for any of them you will need the same installation tools and materials. To successfully complete the installation procedure, you also need to have some tools available:
If you have the necessary tools, then the only thing left is the materials:
Installing a toilet on a tile can be done using a hidden method or an open method. The difference is in the placement of the fastening means: inside the base and outside, respectively.
First of all, you need to mark with a pencil the location of the future location of the toilet. How to do it? We “try on” the toilet in the intended place, then mark it with a simple pencil attachment points, and also outline the base of the toilet. What errors can be made when working with a pencil? The displacement of the markings will affect the holes you actually made, which threatens to not coincide with the mounting grooves.
The next step is to remove the toilet from the working plane for a few minutes and drill holes according to the marks you made.
We will install the toilet on the tile a little later, but now we will take a center punch and use it to scrape off a little of the tile glaze along the fastener mark.
Note!
If this is not done, the drill will slide along the tile, which will lead to damage. flooring.
Next, we should have a glass drill in our hands, which can easily overcome fairly massive ceramic tiles, although not without the help of a hammer drill or drill. After the resistance of the tile has been suppressed, our drill will rest against a structure that is insurmountable for it - concrete. This is where a drill designed for concrete comes into play, with which you need to drill a hole the entire length of the purchased dowel.
After clearing the hole of foreign objects, fill it with sealant, which acts as an insulation against water, and insert it.
Now it's time to fix the toilet to the tile, but before that, run the sealant along the pencil marks. What is it for? The sealant is an excellent barrier to moisture accumulation. Then we install the toilet and secure it with fasteners.
Drill the tiles carefully
Before starting the toilet installation procedure, it is necessary to make outlet holes that will lead to the sewer system, as well as from the water supply. Position the holes as close as possible to the plumbing fixture being installed.
All steps are similar to the previous method. The whole difference lies in the secrecy of the fastening elements. They won't be noticeable here. We string the toilet onto the fasteners and secure it with bolts through the side holes.
The decision on how to attach the toilet to the tile is yours. But no matter which method you choose, experts advise not to tighten the bolts too tightly, as adjustments may be required when connecting to sewer and water systems.
Carefully scrape off any excess sealant that has come out with a spatula.
Today, the “warm floor” system is quite common not only in toilets and bathrooms, but throughout the house. As you can already understand, if such a system exists, then you cannot drill the tiles. Why? Because heating system will be damaged and will no longer function.
But don't despair - there is a way out. Since you can't drill, you'll have to glue it. Only a couple of questions remain: with what and how?
Regardless of the adhesive material, the toilet and tiles require treatment sandpaper. With light hand movements we add a slight roughness to the lower plane of the sanitary element and the tile. This is a mandatory action, since when they are performed, the best contact between the floor and the toilet is observed.
Epoxy resin, silicone glue or liquid nails can be used as an adhesive material.
The mounting hole should be small
Connection to the water supply is carried out in two ways: closed and open.
The closed method is also more aesthetically pleasing than the open method. In order to connect the toilet to the water supply, we need a flexible hose or copper pipe.
Note!
A copper tube usually comes with the toilet, but it is rigid, which makes it impossible to change the position.
But a flexible hose is flexible - you can change the position and not depend much on the position of the device.
The water pipe requires special concentration of your attention. If the pipe thread is internal, you will need to provide the system with an additional adapter, which should be insulated with the seal to avoid leakage.
The final stage is to check for leaks on all fronts. By opening the water tap, waiting for water to fill the barrel, and flushing, you can find places through which water is leaking. If there is no leak, then you can tighten the bolts that secure the toilet to the tile until they stop.
When the installation of the toilet on the tile is completed, the stage begins to give the device life - connecting to the sewer and plumbing systems. After all, without them, the toilet cannot perform its functions.
To connect the toilet with the sewer, we need corrugation. The good thing about corrugation is that it allows you to change the distance of the toilet from the outlet, as well as change the angle of inclination. Inside it is a rubberized membrane that fits snugly both to the toilet outlet and to the sewer outlet. Carefully connect the toilet to the sewer using.
After the manipulations have been completed, you can begin installation, which in turn will be connected to the water supply. Use silicone or plastic washers to prevent bolts from contacting the toilet faience.
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Some plumbing fixtures begin to work worse after prolonged use. A common problem with toilets is loose fixation. Because of this, it is inconvenient to use a wobbly device. You can secure the toilet so that it does not wobble with your own hands if you have some skills in handling tools. There are several ways to do this.
Plumbing fixtures are installed based on the installation instructions supplied with them. During construction or overhaul This work is performed by professional plumbers. Later, after moving in, many residents independently make their own adjustments to the bathroom design and change the appliance to another one.
To perform such work efficiently, it is important to know what methods of securing the device to the flooring exist and how to perform them correctly. Installation features are directly related to the configuration of the plumbing. Typically, domestic bathrooms use compact floor-mounted models. The mounting of such plumbing fixtures varies.
Before fixing the device to the flooring surface, it is important to determine the reason for the loosening of the plumbing fixtures. There are usually several of them, but they come down to three main ones:
Bathroom floors are usually covered with a concrete base, but there are also wood options. Due to the loss of tightness of the fastening screws during operation, the wooden covering The toilet starts to wobble. Sometimes cracks form where the screws are attached to the boards. This is what most often causes loss of stability.
Sometimes the surface concrete screed poured in violation. This leads to deformation and differences in floor height. This also makes the toilet “walk”. In some cases, the cause of unreliable fastening is non-compliance with the toilet installation technology.
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If the bathroom floor is made of wooden planks, the loose plumbing fixture is not fixed back in its original location. It is correct to move the device slightly to the side and screw it in a new place. In this case, it is recommended to drill holes for reliable fixation, the location of which coincides with the mounting holes and secure with screws.
There is no need to try to tighten loose screws in the same place if the floor is made of planks. This will lead to cracking of the device itself. To make installation easier, it is better to make the supply line to the sewerage system from the toilet flexible.
It is much more difficult to fix the problem if the floor covering has concrete base. In old buildings from the USSR, the devices were installed on concrete floors with embedded boards. In this case, to improve fastening, perform the following steps:
Important!
Further work is carried out carefully so as not to damage the fragile material of the old toilet.
To eliminate the damage, the old backing board is removed and new lumber of considerable thickness is laid in its place. You can simply clear this place and concrete it.
After the concrete has hardened, plumbing installation is carried out in the following order:
IN modern apartments The floor in the bathroom is usually made of tiles. Then the plumbing has a backlash when the tiles are not level and have differences. This type of defect is the most difficult to eliminate. After all, in order to get rid of the wobbling of the plumbing fixture, you must first eliminate the unevenness of the floor. It is impossible to do this without dismantling the tiles.
Therefore, to begin with, the problem is eliminated by placing a plastic gasket under the base of the plumbing fixture. Such devices are sold in construction stores and are quite inexpensive. If this option does not bring the desired result and the instability continues, dismantle the tiles and lay the covering again.
Important!
Silicone sealant is sometimes used as a gasket. They coat the area of the tiled floor where the device should be located. When the material is completely dry, install it. This method helps to temporarily solve the problem of a wobbly device.
To do the job efficiently, the master will need the following tools:
Additionally you will need the following materials:
Standard toilet fastening involves drilling holes in the floor for dowels. Then make 4 holes. If the device is mounted with screws, then only 2 holes need to be made. Difficulties are caused by drilling openings when the floor is covered ceramic tiles. From awkward movement or incorrect selection tool, the tiles easily split.
Important!
It is necessary to drill ceramics with a drill designed for this purpose, setting the rotation speed of the device to low. During operation, the pressure on the tool should be light.
When fixing the device is done on cement mortar, it is important to properly prepare the working mixture so that the connection is of high quality. To do this, take 1 part of M200 cement and add 2 parts of sand.
To secure the toilet to the toilet floor in the standard way with screws, perform the following steps sequentially:
Having completed this work, you need to additionally ensure the tightness of the connection. corrugated pipe with sewer inlet and toilet pipe. To do this, use any sealant. Then, if there is one, the gap between the toilet sole and the floor is cosmetically sealed.
The toilet is an integral element of the plumbing unit in any apartment or private house. Installing a toilet is not a complicated process, but it does require some care and some skills. Understand the mechanism cistern and how it is collected from individual parts– this is only half or even a third of the story. In addition to this and connecting to engineering networks, the plumber needs to securely secure the toilet in the toilet. Do you want to know how it goes to the floor, as well as other operations on its arrangement? Here you will find out how you can do this.
Before moving directly to the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor, let’s consider what types of this plumbing product exist. They are classified among themselves according to a number of criteria:
Let's start with the design of the toilet tank and bowl - the main types of plumbing fixtures that differ in this respect are presented in the table below.
Table. Main types of toilets by design.
| Tank type | Description, advantages and disadvantages |
|---|---|
| The most popular design among outdated toilets. The bowl and tank are spaced apart considerable distance relative to each other, the latter is usually located under the ceiling of the toilet. Advantages: good water pressure when flushing, the tank located under the ceiling does not take up usable area already small toilet. Flaws: loud noise when flushing. In addition, access to the tank for repairs is difficult. |
| Today, the most common toilet design is that the tank is attached to the rear edge (where the lip and bolt holes are located) of the bowl and is adjacent to the wall of the toilet. Advantages: ease of maintenance and repair, lower noise level when flushing compared to a separate toilet. Flaw: slightly lower water pressure during operation. |
| Both the tank and the toilet bowl are made as a single piece; they do not need to be fastened to each other. Dignity: reliability - missing connections between the tank and bowl cannot become leaks. As for a compact toilet, ease of maintenance. Flaw: any damage to the tank or bowl will require complete replacement products - it will not be possible to supply new parts separately. |
| To install the toilet, a metal frame is used, fixed to a concrete or brick wall. A tank is installed inside, and a bowl is attached outside. Then the frame is covered with a decorative wall made of plasterboard and tiles. Advantages: attractive appearance, compactness. |
Types of toilets according to the type of connection to the sewer. The horizontal outlet is suitable for those toilets where the waste pipe is hidden behind a plasterboard wall. Vertical design today it is considered obsolete, but previously it was used in those houses where the sewerage system was laid in interfloor ceilings. Oblique outlet is often used in panel apartment buildings
Toilets are made from the following materials:
Now let's move on to ways to attach the toilet to the floor:
The most common way to install a toilet on a toilet floor is with dowels and bolts. This is a practical and relatively simple method, but it has two problems. First, you need to drill the tile. This event requires special care and precision - any mistake will lead to damage to the floor covering. The second problem with attaching plumbing fixtures to dowels is that this installation method is designed for relatively light products. Therefore, if you have a heavy toilet, it is better to use glue.
But let's return to the dowels and screws - in order to use them to secure the toilet to the floor yourself, you will need the following tools:
In some cases, you may also need sealant and a glue gun, or a small sheet of linoleum. Now let’s outline the step-by-step process of attaching the toilet to the floor with dowels.
Step 1.“Try on” the toilet by pre-installing it in the place where it should be. Evaluate how convenient it is to use and the connection points of the water supply to the tank. Try shaking the toilet bowl - you need to determine whether the floor underneath is level.
Important! If the floor is not level enough and the toilet bowl is swaying, then before fixing the plumbing fixtures to dowels, you need to put a sheet of linoleum under it, cut along the contour of the bowl support. But there is also Alternative option– joint processing silicone sealant. And in some cases, the problem may not be with the floor, but with the toilet itself. In this case, the support of the product is cleaned and leveled with emery cloth.
Step 2. Using a tape measure, determine the location where the toilet should be more accurately. Make preliminary marks in the holes for fasteners.
Step 3. Remove the toilet from this place and make fairly large and noticeable marks in the form of crosses from the pre-marked dots.
Step 4. Prepare a drill with a concrete drill bit. Start by drilling holes in the tiles. In this case, the drill should operate at low speeds, and all work should be done extremely carefully so that cracks and other damage to the tiles do not occur in the process.
Step 5. Then complete the holes, but in concrete floor. Either set the drill to higher speeds, or replace it with a hammer drill, which will cope with a similar task much better.
Step 6. Clean the tiles where the toilet is installed from dust and other contaminants formed during drilling holes for dowels. Also, do not forget to degrease the surface using ammonia.
Step 7 Insert dowels into the previously drilled holes.
Step 8 Check whether the bolts from the toilet bowl fit into the dowels properly. If for some reason you are not satisfied with their quality, replace the fasteners with your own.
Step 9 Reinstall the toilet. Check whether the holes in the tile are aligned with those in the bowl support of the sanitary ware.
Step 10 Insert the bolts into the dowels through the holes in the toilet support. Don't forget about plastic or rubber washers. Tighten the bolts, but be careful - when tightening there is a risk of damaging the toilet itself. The last thing to do is cover the fastener caps with decorative plastic covers. After this, fixing the toilet to the floor with dowels with your own hands can be considered complete.
You may be interested in information on how to replace
In terms of popularity, this method of installing a toilet can compete with installing plumbing fixtures using dowels and screws. Here, specialized construction adhesives are used, purchased in the appropriate stores, or mixtures based on epoxy resin, prepared independently. Also, very often, ordinary silicone sealant is used to fix the toilet.
The popularity of this method of installing plumbing products is due to its certain advantages.
It should be understood that this method of installing plumbing will require some patience - after installing the toilet on the glue, it cannot be used for 12-20 hours.
To attach plumbing fixtures to the floor you will need the following materials and tools:
Let's present it to the floor with our own hands in the form of step-by-step instructions.
Step 1. Perform a preliminary “try-on” of the toilet in the toilet - place it on a piece of cardboard so as not to accidentally damage the tiles and imagine how to install this plumbing product in the best way. Consider whether it is comfortable for you to sit on it, how difficult it is to provide access to the sewerage system and connecting the water supply to the tank.
Step 2. Using a corner or tape measure, center the toilet. Note how many centimeters the plumbing should be set back from the left and right walls of the toilet, respectively.
Step 3. Remove the cardboard from under the toilet and re-align it with the walls of the toilet. To do this, use, as in the previous step, a tape measure or a corner.
Important! When aligning the toilet bowl with respect to the walls of the toilet, do not forget about the tank - it should also be positioned as level as possible. Check whether the holes with which both parts of the plumbing product will be connected to each other in the future are aligned.
Step 4. Using a marker or pencil, outline the part of the toilet bowl that is adjacent to the toilet floor.
Step 5. Using a knife or sandpaper, clean the edge of the toilet support so that it becomes perfectly smooth and provides better “adhesion” to the glue.
Interesting! In some cases, it is justified to sand the part of the tile to which the toilet bowl support will adjoin. But at the same time, be careful - do not go beyond the edge of the line marked in one of the previous stages with the abrasive and do not spoil the tile.
Step 6. Treat the tiles where the toilet is installed ammonia to degrease the surface. Then wipe dry with a microfiber cloth.
Step 7 Carefully apply glue or silicone sealant to the edge of the toilet bowl support (as in in this case). The composition should be exactly as much as necessary - if there is a shortage, the attachment of the plumbing product to the floor will be fragile, and if there is an excess, there is a chance of staining the tiles.
Step 8 Transfer the toilet with the glue applied to the bowl support into the toilet and carefully lower it to the place marked with a marker in one of the previous steps. It is advisable to do this work not alone, but with an assistant - otherwise there is a high risk of smearing the tiles next to the plumbing fixtures with glue or sealant and securing the product in a way that is not required.
Step 9 Use a spray bottle to spray the area around the toilet support with soapy water. This is necessary so that when cutting off excess sealant, the latter does not stick to the tile.
Step 10 Wet the spatula with the same soap solution that was discussed in the previous step of attaching the toilet to the floor. Then use this tool to remove any remaining adhesive or sealant.
Step 11 Allow some time, 12 to 24 hours, for the glue, sealant, or other compound you used to secure the toilet to set and dry. Until this time, it is undesirable to somehow move or even touch the plumbing fixtures. , You can read in our article.
Step 12 After adhesive composition finally adheres to the tile, continue installing the toilet - connect the plumbing to the sewer, and connect the water supply to it, attach a seat with a lid to the product, etc.
Important! As mentioned above, you can prepare the glue for attaching the toilet to the floor yourself. To do this, heat 20 parts of epoxy resin to +50°C, then add 4 parts of solvent and 7 parts of hardener to it. Mix them and then add 40 parts of cement. Mix everything again until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The product should be used as glue as soon as possible - after 1.5-2 hours the mixture will lose its properties and begin to harden.
In addition to those indicated in the previous sections, there are other ways to fix the toilet to the floor. However, for one reason or another, they are less popular. Let's do a brief overview.
Previously, a very popular way to fix a toilet was to wall it up with concrete - a small depression was made in the floor, plumbing was installed there and its lower part was covered with mortar. Very often, products installed in this way can be found in old multi-storey buildings (if the residents did not carry out the installation). Fastening in this way is quite reliable and relatively easy to implement.
But the method has two extremely serious problems. The first is the unattractive appearance of the joint between the toilet installed in this way and the floor. The second problem with fixing plumbing fixtures to concrete is the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the product without damage. In fact, in order to remove a toilet installed in this way, you will have to break it. Therefore, with the advent of modern construction glues and sealants, the method lost its relevance.
Another outdated method of attaching a toilet to the floor is using taffeta. It is a wooden support about 5 cm high, installed in a recess with concrete mortar. On the underside of the taffeta is installed a large number of nails or anchors. With their help, a wooden substrate, immersed in a recess, is fixed in concrete mortar. And only then the toilet bowl is installed on the taffeta itself and secured with screws.
Important! When installing plumbing fixtures on a wooden base, remember that the toilet and bathroom are rooms with high humidity. Do not forget to treat the taffeta with drying oil or varnish so that it does not become damp and deteriorate too quickly.
And the last way to fix the toilet, but not entirely related to the floor - suspended installation. In this case, a metal frame is built near the wall of the toilet (most often included with wall-mounted plumbing fixtures). The toilet bowl is connected to it and produced. At the same time, the frame itself and the tank of the sanitary ware are hidden behind a false wall made of plasterboard and tiles. The result is a compact and beautiful mount. But implementation this method requires a lot of time and money.
The choice of the methods presented above for attaching the toilet to the floor depends only on your personal preferences. In order for your toilet to last longer, we advise you to purchase. In any case, if you approach the matter wisely and carry out the installation correctly, your plumbing fixtures will last for many years and will remain firmly in place.
Scheme for attaching a toilet using taffeta
Epoxy - best glue for toilet
Finishing a toilet with tiles almost always occurs in the absence of plumbing units - a toilet bowl and components. This is due to the fact that then laying the tiles “in a circle” is much more difficult. Difficulties will also arise when laying ceramics on the walls - the toilet will simply get in the way. Therefore, installation of “amenities” is planned after completion of all finishing works. There are several ways to install plumbing fixtures.
The work comes down to marking the space for the toilet itself, removing the sewer drain and pipes from cold water. The ends of the drainage and filling system must protrude from the surface by at least 15 cm, otherwise a high-quality connection will not work and work will also have to be done to extend the pipes. To prevent this from happening, a sufficient distance is taken care of at the stage of rough alignment of the walls and floor.
In addition to the toilet, you will need:
Fasteners are usually included with the toilet. If this is not provided, purchase additional anchor bolts corresponding to the diameters of the holes. It is important to purchase them in a corrosion-resistant design - leaks or condensation in the toilet are inevitable, which will certainly result in rust.
Least costly in terms of effort. Suitable for installing a toilet with “ears” - lower parts with drilled technological holes for fastening. The algorithm is as follows:
All that remains is to mount the components - the corrugation, the tank - and connect the entire structure to the cold water pipeline.
Installation of a toilet without protruding elements is distinguished by the aesthetics of the result. It is somewhat more complicated and without an accurate algorithm it is impossible to carry out the work correctly. So:
After the structure is completely installed and is satisfactory in operation, the fastening bolts are covered with decorative plugs and the toilet takes on the appearance of solid ceramics. Installation is simple, but requires care.
If the toilet has a heated floor with water or electrical system, drilling holes for fasteners cannot be carried out - there is a risk of compromising the integrity of the waterproofing or wire. In this case, fastening occurs using adhesive mixtures- resins, liquid nails, silicones with additives. How to do it right:
That's actually all the processes. They are inaccessible to amateurs, especially if the tiles are expensive, it is better to leave the work to professionals who provide a guarantee for their own installation. If you still decide to do it yourself, then training on a piece of tile is necessary.
First, a corrugation is installed to the outlet and to the sewer riser. You should not skimp on quality when purchasing - it ensures the tightness of the drain and prevents unpleasant amber from entering the room. Then, the tank is installed on the toilet using the bolts included in the kit. Next, the plumbing structure is installed to the water supply. Only in this manner will proper operation be ensured.
To help home handyman video material with detailed process DIY toilet installation. We hope the instructions will be useful.
If you sort out the issue of installing a toilet, you can save a lot on the services of plumbing specialists. And don’t be afraid of this work, because there are no particularly difficult technological processes. The main thing is to get to the heart of the matter, study the material provided and reinforce the whole theory with the video material you watched.
In this article we will tell you about popular methods of attaching a toilet to the floor. It’s worth saying right away that we will not describe the technology of concreting a toilet; it is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Now the toilet is installed directly on the tile and here it is important to understand the methods of its fastening.
First of all, it is necessary to carry out dismantling work to remove the old device. All this work shouldn't take much time. First of all, turn off the tap that supplies water to the tank. After this, the nut on the hose is unscrewed. Water drains from the tank. Next, the mount on the tank is dismantled.
Helpful advice! If the fastener is metal and it is slightly rusty, then unscrewing the nut will be problematic. In this case, you can use special compounds, for example, WD-40. In just a few minutes, the rust will come off and you can easily unscrew the fasteners.
After this, the fasteners on the toilet itself are dismantled. These are usually anchors screwed into the floor. If you still have old toilet, then it can be cemented. In this case, you need to carefully break the screed and completely remove the old toilet.
If there are no plans for it or it is already leaking, then you can break the toilet itself, in which case dismantling will be easier. But remember, this is acceptable if it is concreted!
During the dismantling process, be sure to follow safety precautions so that fragments do not damage unprotected areas of the body. Plus, you need to carefully remove the toilet from sewer pipe. If it is damaged, the installation process may be difficult.
After complete dismantling The base for installing the toilet should be prepared. The amount of work will depend entirely on the quality of the floor. If there are tiles on it and you do not plan to replace them, then just make sure that they are held securely. If you remove old tiles and lay new ones, you should not rush to install the toilet.
If the old device was concreted and a hole formed in the floor after its removal, then it must be completely cleaned and cemented. It is also important to pay attention to the outlet of the sewer pipe. It must be intact to eliminate the possibility of leakage waste water. If you have cast iron pipes, then immediately plan to replace the pipe with a plastic one.
To secure the toilet with your own hands, you need the appropriate tool. Most DIYers have one. In particular, you may need:
This is the main set of tools. Its configuration may vary slightly depending on the installation method.
So, we invite you to familiarize yourself with three ways to secure a toilet:
Although the technology is different, the task remains the same - securely fix the toilet to the floor so that it does not fall during use.
If you have a flat floor, then this method is the most common. But a perfectly flat tile floor is important here. If there is a slight difference at the mounting location, the toilet may break.
To prevent this from happening, you can place a rubber lining or a piece of old linoleum under the toilet. To cut it out, you need to place the toilet on the material, trace the outline with a marker and then cut out the given shape.
After this, markings are carried out directly on the floor. In most cases, toilets have two fasteners. The marking process is carried out as follows:
While the sealant hardens, you can begin making the hole. The quality of fastening will largely depend on the correct drill diameter chosen. It must fully match the diameter of the dowel. You can drill through the gasket.
A plastic dowel must be driven into the prepared hole. After this, we install the toilet in place and secure it with dowels. The device should be firmly tightened, but only moderately, otherwise the eyelet on the mount may break off.
For simplified installation, usually the dowels for fastening are equipped with a special plastic gasket, which eliminates the possibility of possible chipping.
At the next stage, the toilet is connected to the sewer, the tank is installed and the water is connected. When installing the tank, a rubber seal must be used. To make it more likely, it can be coated with silicone or other sealant. This will increase the quality of the joint and prevent water leakage during draining.
note
After filling the tank, you need to drain it several times. This is done to ensure that all joints are completely sealed: between the tank and the toilet, on the water hose and on the sewer pipe connection.
At the end of all work, it is recommended to treat the joint between the toilet and the tiles on the floor with silicone sealant. This will prevent water from flowing in and moisture from accumulating.
You can also fix the toilet with glue. This is especially necessary when there is heated floor technology. As an adhesive composition they can be different materials, such as epoxy glue, silicone and other sealants.
If epoxy adhesive is present, its use is only allowed if the floors are sufficiently smooth. The work process is as follows:
That's the whole technology of gluing the toilet to the floor.
If you have a wooden floor, then this method of fixing the toilet is the most suitable. Taffeta refers to a special layer of wood.
The thickness of the wood should be around 300 mm. In order to prevent rotting of this embedded part, it must be treated with drying oil and other anti-corrosion compounds. The essence of this technology is as follows:
Advice! To make the screws easy to tighten, they can be lubricated with graphite or grease. Thanks to this, after a while they will also be easy to unscrew..
After this, the standard procedure for connecting the barrel is carried out. Additionally, you can coat the joint between the toilet and taffeta with silicone. This will eliminate the possibility that moisture will flow and accumulate under the sole.
Conclusion
So, we looked at the two most common technologies for how to properly install a toilet on tiles. We also additionally learned what to do if you have a wooden floor. As you can see, there are no particularly complex processes. One of the main tasks is to choose the right fasteners.
Although in most cases, it comes with the purchased device. We hope that this material will help you independently understand all the details of installing and fastening the toilet.
How to install a toilet on tiles with your own hands, video example
