Any building that requires the removal of domestic wastewater needs sewerage. And, of course, this includes the bath. For its normal, uninterrupted functioning, it is necessary to think over a sewerage plan even before the start of construction. If the site has a central sewage system, then the sewer pipe from the bath can be cut into general scheme and the issue will be resolved immediately. But not everyone on the site has such an accomplishment. Then you have to think about where to go wastewater from the bath?
Many companies offer their services to solve this problem. But not everyone has the financial ability to take advantage of their offer. Therefore, we invite you to familiarize yourself with independent ways device local cleaning system for a bath.
Exist different kinds sewerage. To choose the most profitable option for all its characteristics, you need to consider a number of conditions:
If on site sandy soil, then the best option would be to build drainage well. How to build it?
When building a bath on clay soil, a pit should be built to collect and periodically clean it from sewage.
The pit is a small hole located in the ground under the washing room. Reaching a certain level, drains are discharged from the pit outside the site through a drain sewer pipe. The walls and bottom of the pit must be waterproofed with waterproof, non-shrinking cements.
The drain pipe, as in the case of a drainage well, should be located with a slope of 1-2 cm on running meter from the pit to the drain. But this type of sewerage is not very practical. Since the pit is located directly under the floor, the smell of sewage will penetrate into the room.
This problem can be solved by constructing a water seal. For this drain pipe placed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the bottom of the pit. A plate is attached to it from above. In the space that is formed between the plate and the bottom, a water seal is formed, which does not allow unpleasant odors to penetrate to the outside.
It is also possible to equip the pit with a siphon. Then the water accumulated in its bend will retain the smell of sewage. You can supplement this whole design with ventilation hoods.
During construction big bath and its frequent use, the sewerage should be more solid. Here, building a septic tank can be a good solution. It can also be built from improvised materials. For example, two plastic barrels or polyethylene eurocubes.
Of course, the septic tank device is the most laborious process, but when using it, it is not required to clean the tank from excess wastewater. To build a septic tank for a bath, you need to dig a pit, install 2 plastic barrels and connect them together with an overflow pipe.
In the first barrel, bring a sewer pipe through which sewage will flow from the bath. Pour a layer of crushed stone or gravel at the bottom of the container. This is a kind of filter in which excess fats and suspensions will settle. After that, cleaner wastewater will pass through the overflow pipe into the second barrel. There will continue their upholding. Gardeners-gardeners use treated effluents for irrigation.
When constructing any of the above types of sewage, you should also pay attention to the choice of a sewer pipe. So, cast iron pipes are too heavy and expensive. Steel tends to rust, so that their operation will be short-lived.
Most best option- plastic pipes. They are low cost, easy to install and will last for many years. The diameter of the pipes must be taken into account. The smaller it is, the more likely it is to clog. Indeed, in the washing department, along with sewage, leaves and twigs from a broom, remnants, threads from a washcloth and other objects can get into the sewer.
Considering all the features of the construction of the bath, including the sewage system, it will bring a lot of benefits, health and Have a good mood. Enjoy Your Bath!
Where does bad smell in the steam room in the bath or sauna? The answer to this question is both clear and unexpected. It smells like a stove along with a stone. It may smell, or it may not. Why? Expert conclusions. I’ll add a little gag and put in 5 kopecks about this topic, because I have never heard from people who went to the bathhouse with me (including the public one) that they feel an unpleasant smell carbon monoxide. I started with this question, so as not to return to it again.
Carbon monoxide is odorless, so you can smell anything but the smell of carbon monoxide.
As a rule, this is due to poor draft into the pipe from the furnace, or, worse, the presence of holes in the structure of the pipe or furnace.
Although this is doubtful. Even if there are holes directly in the stove, due to the draft force in the chimney, air from the steam room is drawn into these holes, and not pushed out of them. Because there is a reduced pressure in the combustion zone, which sucks in air not only through the blower, but also through these holes.
The situation is more complicated with an unpleasant smell in the steam room of the bath, which appears during steam procedures or at the stage of preparing the bath. It looks like this: before you kindle the stove - there is no smell, but immediately after kindling the smell appears. What reasons?
This happens for the following reasons:
You purchase, for example, a certified soapstone stone and cover your furnace with a grid from the outside, covering all the sides of the steel furnace. Every week you take a steam bath, pour oil solutions and herbal infusions over the stone, and then you start to notice. that the unpleasant odor in the bath increases. What's the matter? - you make a claim to the seller of the stone. And he just has nothing to do with it. The mode in which you use the stone is very important.
Soapstone - good for use in batch furnaces. Those. where the stone is licked by fire directly, and not heated through the sides of a steel firebox. Characteristic soapstone at high temperatures - to form a strong crust resistant to aggressive environments on the surface. It is thanks to her that it does not crumble and withstands many cycles of fire exposure.
When the stone is located outside the furnace, the heating temperature of the stone is unlikely to exceed 300 degrees and a protective crust is not formed. The stone absorbs moisture well with low evaporation. And the water contains the smallest particles of herbs and roots, berries - other organic matter, which I saturate with solutions and infusions. A weakly heated stone and particles of its dust absorb this organic matter. So it provokes an unpleasant odor the next time the stones are heated. Getting on the hot metal of the bottom of the furnace at high temperature, the biomass particles begin to burn, smolder and give off a smell.
To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to have a very high temperature stone so that these particles do not have time to absorb or settle during evaporation, or use only oils that give completely transparent solutions for bath procedures.
As you can see, the presence of a certified and “correct” stone does not always save you from an unpleasant smell in the steam room and bath.
Pay attention to the flowability of your stone. When exposed to heat, stone dust is released and scattered from the stone - this is the first sign that an unpleasant odor may soon appear. But if you are not lazy and shift the stone once every half a year, this dust can be removed from the bottom of the stove furnace.
In a way, I also use such a preventive method of protecting the stone from precipitation of plant residues - a dense canvas bag in which I infuse herbs. The water has a color, but the remains of chamomile, mint and other herbs do not float in it, which crumble and sometimes turn into dust.
So I prevent that an unpleasant smell does not appear in the steam room in the bath or sauna. Hope. These simple tips will help you get only the most pleasant sensations from steam and bath procedures. I try to carry out the aromatization of the steam room - by laying out brooms and branches of herbs directly on the shelves. With light steam, friends!
Secret life hacks for bath attendants: in stoves with steam generators on the sides of the furnace walls in the form of plates, lay stones so that the dust from them does not fall into the gutters. removing it from there is very difficult and it is necessary to disassemble the convector.
Video of the first firing of the kiln before operation
The Russian bath is, first of all, a tradition, a place where you relax with your soul and body, feel hot air and the pleasant aroma of an oak broom, well, or the smell of sewage, if the sewerage in the bathhouse is done in a blunder. How to organize everything correctly so that the process brings only pleasant impressions - read on!
Its essence is quite simple. A leuko-shaped floor is made in the bath, which collects water, then it is sent along plastic pipe(as a rule, several of them are placed) into a drainage well, in which it is absorbed into the ground. This method ideal for a room in which they wash relatively infrequently, say, 5 people a week. Then the system will easily cope with the amount of water for many years. If there is too much load, you need to make high-quality shambo (we will describe it in the next section). Let's take a closer look at how to make a drainage system.
>Step 1: Dig a well.
At a distance of 4-5 meters from the bath, you need to dig a hole to a depth of 2-3 concrete rings + 30 centimeters around them in diameter. It is advisable to calculate the place so that there is black soil, sand, but not clay on the sole. Otherwise, the hole needs to be made deeper by another 1 meter to be sure. It is also necessary to take into account the level of soil freezing, if this line passes at a depth of 1 meter, then you need to go deeper by at least 2.2 meters. Be sure to do drainage. We fall asleep large gravel (50 cm), coarse-grained sand (30 cm) to the bottom, sprinkle sand around the rings 30 cm. Then, with a perforator, we punch holes with a diameter of 3-4 centimeters, 10-15 pieces per 1 concrete ring.
>Step 2: Make a leuco-like screed under the bath.
The main task of this design is to completely collect all the water that will get there, transport it to the entrance to the sewer. Warming is not required, because even in cold weather hot water quickly remove possible icing, and from stagnation we will make a good slope. We just fill the screed under the bath, in the place where our sewer outlet fits, we make the bottom of the watering can, an angle of up to 10% is desirable.
>Step 3: We lay the pipe.
Here it is already necessary to pay attention to the depth of freezing, since in cold winter can be different variants. We lay it from compacted plastic to a depth of at least 50 centimeters underground. One edge goes into the foundation of the bath, the other - 80-90 centimeters from the top of the drainage well. A slope of 10-15% will be ideal, so it is better to place the bath on a hill .. We put a heater on top of the pipe, preferably mineral wool, crushed polystyrene, layer 10 cm. We fall asleep on top of the earth.
>Step 4: Water seal or siphon.
This is the most important part of the system for you. If it is not there, you will have to breathe not in a pleasant vapor, but incense from the sewer. In fact, the secret of happiness in the bath is very simple, just install a metal damper at the exit from the foundation or put a siphon, shaped like a toilet, so that air does not pass through the water. But the siphon must be installed if sub-zero temperatures are not expected in that node, otherwise it will crack or simply will not let water through in winter. The damper in the drain is much more efficient. Screw to outside a piece of polyurethane (foam plastic is possible, but it wears out faster), the water in the ladder raises the damper, the water escapes, the damper falls and closes the hole. Air in any case does not pass through the water and the closed hole.
>Step 5: We hide traces of actions.
We warm the knee that moves away from the bath. We bury the ditch, it is best to lay concrete slabs up if you are thinking of driving through this area by car or installing heavy structures. We close the top of the drainage well with a slab, make a hole for the hatch, put it in and insulate it from above. We close the bottom of the bath with boards, we make normal conditions for soaring.
Important: use only coarse-grained bulk materials, since the larger the fraction, the longer the system will work without cleaning. If you use very fine sand, slag or just earth, the water in the drainage well will take a very long time to pass and if the bath is heavily loaded, problems will arise with the elimination of liquid.
If the soil is sandy or from a shell rock, the well can be replaced with a drainage cushion, which is placed directly under the structure itself. To do this, you need to dig a hole under the foundation, fill it with rubble, insulate the foundation in a circle and make air vents. This is the easiest way, but it does not solve the problem, since the moisture will be increased, it disappears over time throughput soil.
Before you make a sewer in the bath, you need to determine the load on it. If you want to swim often, bring friends, guests there, or even rent it out, you need to make sure that the sewerage system is trouble-free and serves for many years. Let us consider in more detail how to make such a design with your own hands, what is needed for this.
>Step 1: Manufacture of a pit.
It must be done in good faith and exactly as described below, otherwise unpleasant air, dampness will constantly rise to the boards of the bath. First, we create a leuko-shaped concrete screed, exactly as in the first case. We make an outlet pipe at a height of 6 centimeters from the bottom of the pit - this is our future water intake. It should be 15-20 centimeters in diameter, the larger the better. We construct a metal damper that will close the exit, we make it exactly the same as described in the section above. Actually, the pit is not particularly different, only the pipe should be a little larger (pay attention to the exit by 6 cm), the slope can be made up to 6-7 degrees, and the depth of the pit should be reduced.
>Step 2: Large-scale earthworks.
At this stage, you will have to hire an excavator or sweat a lot. You need 2 tanks of 3-4 cubes each, that is, approximately 2 pits located 70-100 centimeters from one another, each of them will have 3 concrete rings. On top of the hole will be concrete slab and a manhole, which should be flush with the ground on the site. That is, you need 2 pits with a depth of about 360 centimeters and a diameter of 150 centimeters (we do it with a margin).
>Step 3: Installation of "infrastructure" of tanks.
Throw 3 concrete rings each, connect them with an asbestos bridge (metal is impossible - great corrosion) at a level of 80 cm from the floor and 80 cm from the top, make ventilation shaft from the second container with a diameter of 15 centimeters, install a fungus on it. Next, you need to bring the sewer pipe to the first container, break through the concrete, enter it, fill it with a solution at the outlet so that there is no backlash.
In order for the sewerage system to never make itself felt, and also to significantly reduce labor costs for eliminating possible faults, you need to know a few basic plumbing commandments:
If you follow these instructions, then your bath will not only work well, but also always smell good.
The essence of this structure is extremely doubtful if you make 2 sewer pipes, as described in the section above, but the miser pays twice, as you know. Still, it is better to make a viewing well, especially since it costs only a few hundred rubles, and the benefits can be significant.
It is 1 concrete ring, which is ½ way to the first tank. As a rule, this is the junction of two PVC pipes (well, or durable plastic). The ring is buried in the ground, a slab and a hatch are on top, and even higher - a heater or earth. The pipe should pass through a concrete ring 25 centimeters from the floor, the joint should be in the middle.
If any problems occur, for example, when the channel is clogged, it will be possible to unsolder them, clean them, solder them again in just 1 hour of work. This is much easier than trying to do something with one pipe 4-6 meters long. Actually, the relevance of the viewing ring very rarely arises, because with a well-made sewerage system, it is perfectly cleaned by itself, no additional actions are required.
Everyone knows that the bath is very good for health. IN various types baths and saunas (in Finnish, Russian, Turkish, Roman, sports or other) a certain and individual level of humidity and temperature is maintained. In working steam rooms, high humidity in the bath is a necessity and a norm. However, steam and moisture are destructive to the structure, interior coatings and woodwork if the sauna room is not properly or insufficiently ventilated. When excess moisture is not removed from the room, from corners, places where air moves little, or it is noticeable that fungus and mold will soon appear on the walls - a clear sign of an unacceptable unhealthy microclimate in the bath. And one more nuance: if the bath is not used, its room must be dry, otherwise you will not even notice how the room has become a breeding ground for diseases and fungus.
IN different types baths maintain different ratios of air temperature and humidity levels, and it is important to know these norms in order to constantly maintain climate indicators. The healing effect, comfort and well-being of people in the bath depends on this. The beneficial effect of the bath is based on the deep heating of the body and the removal of toxins from the body. The presence of steam in the air improves its thermal conductivity and accelerates the heating of the skin and the body as a whole.
Russian bath - a steam bath with a humidity level of up to 60-65% and a temperature of 45 to 70 ° C, with a dressing room and a steam room.
Hot Russian bath - the temperature in the steam room can rise to 90 and above ° C, and the humidity can be maintained at a level of up to 35%.
The Turkish bath or hammam is similar to the Roman baths with ceramic decoration, it is distinguished by a mild microclimate, the highest content of steam in the air - humidity up to 90-100% with a temperature of up to 45 ° C. Usually this is a complex of rooms with different temperatures.
Finnish bath - a sauna with high air heating (up to 100 and above ° C) and not very high humidity- about 10%. Virtually no vapor in the air. It consists of a large dressing room for relaxation, a steam room and a shower room.
You can also name Japanese water baths, Roman baths are national baths and are rare in our country. There are also special sports saunas that maintain extreme humidity. They are designed for hardening athletes.
The above indicators must be maintained regularly and each type has its own. It is impossible to acquire, for example, Finnish bath and do not monitor the humidity level so that it reaches 40% - then it is no longer Finnish bath, but unhealthy place. Many people wonder how to control the moisture content in the air? Maintaining the temperature is not a problem, here is the humidity ...
Created for this special device- a dehumidifier with a built-in hygrometer, and only he can help regulate the level of humidity. The hygrometer built into it will regularly measure moisture indicators and give a signal to the dehumidifier so that it either starts to dry the air or stops exposure when it reaches the goal. The humidity level you need is set in the settings as optimal, and then the device independently controls the environment you need. This process will help you keep your bath in good condition. You just need to understand that you can’t put a dehumidifier in the bath itself, because the conditions are not at all intended for technology! The dehumidifier is installed in the dressing room, near the exit from the steam room. You can read in more detail what an air dryer is.
Ventilation in the bath is an obligatory aspect of any bath, because it is the key to a healthy microclimate. natural ventilation it is arranged most often, but mechanical - it is necessary for the constant operation of saunas or baths. But ventilation will not be able to fully optimize the level of humidity. The use of ventilation and a dehumidifier will be an ideal tandem for a healthy microclimate in your “steam room”.
Any bath or sauna is a gift to our health! But, if it shows traces of exposure high humidity, swell and collapse wooden shelves and walls, wiring and metal parts rust, tiles become moldy and fall off, and the smell of dampness cannot be eliminated - this is already a serious problem and must be resolutely dealt with. There can be no talk of health in such a bath. If you do not deal with dampness for a certain time, repairs will be required at a substantial cost.
What causes violations of the microclimate in the bath
How to remove dampness in the bath
1.
Open all dampers and doors, ventilate all rooms of the bath after use until completely dry. But this can be long and inconvenient if the bath is used in the winter, and is suitable only if it is used from time to time.
2.
Ventilation system. If there forced ventilation- turn on exhaust fan and ventilate the room to the desired level of hygrometer readings. Check cleanliness ventilation ducts, remove debris and dust in places where fungus or mold can develop. Treat the channels with antiseptic agents.
