Based on the ability of trees to protect their integrity, perhaps thanks to the cambium - active substance, which is located under the bark.
In this procedure, specially made cuts are placed on the scion (what we will graft on) and the rootstock (on which we will graft) so that the layers of the cambium are connected. Then they are pressed tightly against each other and given time to grow together.
Grafting fruit trees makes it possible to:
Did you know? Summer way grafting was invented and patented in Lithuania in the early 80s. The operation was carried out on a pear tree, and the result was a rootstock survival rate of 97%.
The success of any tree grafting in summer depends on the correctly selected scion and the timing of the procedure. This is the period of maximum sap flow (second half of July - August), when the shoots grow and are not dormant.
Cuttings are taken from a healthy tree with good fruiting outside crowns with maximum sun exposure. Shoots should be annual with smooth bark and healthy foliage. Their length should be up to 40 cm, cut diameter - 6 cm. The main condition is that the scion must have two formed buds.
It is best to cut on the day of vaccination, early in the morning (maximum up to 10 o’clock) and use them within 3 hours. If it was not possible to carry out the procedure during this time, remove the cuttings in a cool place, wrapping them in a damp cloth.
There are quite a lot of grafting methods, and in order to know how and when to graft fruit trees correctly, you need to take into account the age of the rootstock, the thickness of the branches, the timing of maximum sap flow, and also possess the necessary skills.
Each method has its own characteristics that need to be known and taken into account.
Important! Grafting is stressful for the tree, which becomes vulnerable to all kinds of bacteria. Therefore, you need to be sure that there are no plants nearby that are infected with any disease, otherwise the grafted tree may simply die.
Budding - reliable way for propagation of valuable varieties, in which it is possible to obtain the largest number of seedlings with a minimum amount of grafting material, since one cutting produces several buds.
The presented method is popular and is used by many nurseries. It involves implanting a bud taken from a one-year-old branch of a healthy and varietal tree into the rootstock, which must have intact leaves and bark without damage.
The length of the cutting used should be 40 cm. There are two known methods of budding: so, if the bark comes off easily, then use a T-shaped cut, and if it’s bad, use a butt cut.
Types of budding:
To restore bark that has been damaged by the spring sun or eaten, it is necessary to perform a summer grafting with a bridge. It is suitable for both apple trees and other trees.
If the bark is partially damaged, then one bridge is used, but if it is damaged around the trunk or branch, then such a number of bridges (cuttings) are installed so that the distance between them is no more than 3 cm.
The cuttings grow together, connecting the separated areas of the bark, and provide nutrition to the damaged areas. The completed grafting leads to the expansion of the trunk, because both the lower and upper parts of the cutting go under the bark of the tree. 
It is important that it springs a little after inserting into the slits, so its length should be a couple of centimeters larger than the desired size.
The vaccination itself is performed as follows:
Grafted bridges from cuttings generally quickly grow into the wood of a tree, saving it from death, since they become conductors nutrients and moisture.
When figuring out how to properly graft an apple tree or any fruit tree into a split in the summer, it should be said about the need to make cuts that will facilitate easier splitting of the rootstock branches into two parts. In this case, you need to know two rules:
If the branch is skeletal, it is possible and even necessary to make several cuts, leaving a distance between them so that the future branch has the correct shape.
On young tree you need to plant several cuttings on different branches, but there must be sufficient distance between them. The sequence of operations when performing the split procedure:
Important! To ensure good fixation of the cutting in the cleft, in its upper cut part it is necessary to cut out straight sections - hangers, which will be the clamps. With this grafting, it is necessary that the bark of the cutting and the hemp necessarily coincide.
Before the procedure is carried out, it is necessary to prepare the tree, which involves rejuvenation. Please note that the thickness of the cuttings should be no more than 10 cm.
Another important point: below the site of the future cut there should be a shoot that will provide nutrition. Grafting apple trees with cuttings can be carried out in the summer, and 2 methods are used for this.
Angular method:
Side way:
The cutting must be inserted so that the oblique cut is turned towards the wood of the rootstock, and the ledge rests on the end of the stump. To be sure, use several cuttings in one cutting, since the grafts may break off when growing due to the wind. For further growth they leave one powerful, established shoot, which will later become a branch.
Grafting is a procedure for transplanting a bud or cutting from a tree of one variety to a tree of another variety. Almost everyone experienced gardener is engaged in grafting trees in order to develop new varieties of fruit plants in the garden. This method is recognized as one of the best ways to propagate varietal plants.
The timing of tree grafting in summer, autumn, winter and spring is influenced by several factors - climatic conditions, plant characteristics, etc.
Tree grafting has many benefits. It is carried out not only for the purpose of propagating new varieties of trees, but also for the purpose of saving space on garden plot, correcting the shape of the crown, rejuvenating and improving the general condition of plants in the garden.
Experienced gardeners know that best timing grafting of fruit trees in summer. However, many successfully carry out this procedure at other times of the year, using different methods.
First of all, you should study the compatibility of the grafted parts of the trees - scion and rootstock. For example, grafting a pear onto a birch tree will be ineffective, but if you graft an apple tree onto an apple or pear tree, you can get a new variety of fruit-bearing tree.
The best time to carry out this procedure is July-August. Pears are grafted first, then apples, plums and cherries. Grafting of peaches and apricots is carried out at a later date - in August. Preparation of the scion is carried out well in advance of the processing of the plantings. At this time of year, trees are grafted with green buds or shoots from the current year.
It is difficult to say that autumn is the best time to graft trees. Because at this time of year, gardeners are more involved in preparing material for propagation and processing trees before wintering. It is worth remembering that if you decide to carry out such a procedure at this time, then you should not delay it. Everything needs to be done before frost sets in.
IN middle lane and in the Moscow region, tree grafting is carried out in the summer. This the best time to carry out such an operation in cool climatic conditions. By winter, the plants have time to grow together and take root.
As you know, in winter, all plants in the garden are dormant, so it is not recommended to carry out any procedures for rejuvenation, replanting, etc. Grafting trees in winter can be quite successful if the required temperature is maintained at the time of this procedure.
Light frosts do not affect the survival rate of the scion. The effectiveness of such an operation is possible at a temperature not lower than -2 degrees. At lower temperatures the plant may die. After the work has been carried out, the tree is well wrapped in the grafting areas to protect it from the cold.
The result of such manipulation can only be observed in spring or summer. At this time of year, trees are grafted with cuttings, which are harvested in the fall.
Most gardeners carry out this manipulation in the spring, because this time of year is the best time to carry out work in the country. For these purposes, cuttings are used on which the buds have not yet swelled. This is very important; if you are late with this, the procedure will have to be postponed until the summer.
It is during this period of the year that you can achieve best results after this manipulation. Before starting this process, it is necessary to water the tree abundantly, then loosen the soil around it. This will improve air circulation and soil moisture holding capacity.
Thus, the roots of the trees will absorb the necessary substances, oxygen, and accelerate their growth and development.
Advice! Initially, early ripening varieties of apples are grafted, and then they wait for the middle ones and, finally, the late ones.
There are many ways of such vaccination. You can bud and graft behind the bark or on a thick branch into the edge of a cut, or graft a young shoot into a split or behind the bark of a thick branch.
One of the methods of summer grafting is for the bark of a thick branch.
Vaccination dates in different regions Russia differ:
Important! Varieties of apples of different ripening react differently to grafting, so you can’t combine them!
A fruit bearing tree is grafted into the cleft And for the bark small pieces of this year's shoots.
They are trying to find the right time for such vaccinations. from the end of August to the first days of September.
For summer grafting of aging apple trees, cuttings with “sleeping” buds are used, which will “wake up” only by next spring.
Selecting cuttings for grafting.
Carefully! When re-grafting an old tree, do not do it right away. a large number of open wounds, this greatly weakens the apple tree and can destroy it!
The wild girl is ennobled by budding in the spring until 4 years of age, but if the tree is already has outgrown these deadlines, then the vaccination is already carried out in summer.
But in June, the wild apple tree reluctantly accepts cultivated buds-eyes, and takes for bark with dormant buds and in August.
Grafting a wild apple tree by the bark.
In the summer, the wild game “ennobles” from July to mid-August grafting into cleft
Grafting a wild apple tree into a cleft.
An apple tree in the form of this year's shoots can be grafted onto an adult pear tree. The time is right for this:
Knowing when you can plant an apple tree in the summer, even if only approximately, will help a summer resident or a novice gardener improve existing varieties or expand the range of apple tree varieties.
At the same time, his work will not be in vain, and in the future apple trees will give a wonderful harvest on new branches once grafted.
In contact with
To preserve the qualities of a tree variety, grafting is used. This procedure also allows you to update your garden without replacing trees with new ones. The grafting procedure is based on the ability of trees to maintain integrity. Fusion occurs due to the cambium substance located under the bark.
It is necessary to distinguish between scion and rootstock. The scion is the material that is grafted, the rootstock is the plant that will be grafted onto.
The essence of the procedure:
Benefits of vaccination fruit crops are:
Above are the main advantages of vaccination work. It should be separately noted what are the advantages of summer vaccination.
There are several benefits to updating your garden in the summer. First of all, this is an opportunity to assess the condition of the trees after winter period. Plants for rootstock must be healthy. If you fail with spring grafting you can repeat the procedure.
IN summer period The tissue grows faster in the cut area, so the fusion site is durable. If the material is from last year’s bark, then there is a high probability that the scion will take root, unlike the spring grafting.
Another advantage is that fewer cuttings are required and their shelf life is reduced.
Note! If you make a scion in the summer, then in the fall you can already judge the success of the procedure; the cultivation of the plant occurs a year earlier.
In summer, the method of propagation by green cuttings is used. This method can be done using budding (into the butt or into a T-shaped split).
Fruit crops that are suitable for propagation by green cuttings: gooseberries, currants, cherries, plums and some varieties of apple trees.
Certain cuttings are selected for summer grafting. For selection, the type of buds must be distinguished. Buds are either flowering or growth buds. Growth buds are located on the upper part of the stem. In the middle part there are both growth and flowering ones. The lower part mainly consists of growth buds.
How the shoots are arranged is also important to determine the type. In the central part inside the crown there are flower buds, in the lateral part there are growth buds. Appearance buds are different: growth buds are long and flattened, flower buds are big size and round.
Cuttings are cut from the side of the branches where the growth buds are located. The shoots should be covered with wood with smooth bark and have healthy leaves. Cut off a shoot thirty centimeters long and five to six millimeters in diameter.
Cuttings are prepared on the day when grafting is planned. The preferred time period is from four to ten o'clock in the morning. If the cuttings are used within two to three hours after cutting, they are not placed in water. The blanks are placed in the shade, all leaves and the top part are removed. The petioles are left one centimeter long and the stipules are removed. After completing the preparation, the workpieces are wrapped in a damp cloth.
Important! You should choose the weather for this procedure. A gloomy day, but without rain, is ideal.
Not all grafting methods are suitable for use in summer. Summer grafting of fruit trees with green cuttings is most effectively carried out by the bud budding method. There are two main ways: in the butt and in the T-split.
The T-shaped graft is intended for plants in which the bark easily pulls away from the tree. The knife used to make the cut must be sharp.
Advice. It is better to use a budding knife specially designed for this purpose.
First you need to make an incision on the rootstock. To do this, being next to the tree, you should tilt it and make an incision. The cut should go across and reach the wood. The procedure is carried out at a slight inclination to the vertical axis of the tree. This is necessary to facilitate insertion of the shield. The length of the cut depends on the thickness of the plant or branch. The length varies from two to three and a half centimeters.
After the first cut is made, another one should be made, which is already perpendicular to the first. Its length is from one to three centimeters. If the bark separates well, the cut is made shorter. The result should be a "T" shaped cut. To prevent the knife from slipping in your hand, you should place forefinger below the blade. The finger serves as a stop. The blade should be perpendicular to the bark.
When the second cut is made, the knife is not removed, but is turned from side to side to lift the corners of the bark.
The bark on the cutting is cut transversely, so that the distance from the top of the bud is one to one and a half centimeters. This will be the top of the future shield. The next transverse incision is made one and a half centimeters below the base of the kidney. Both the bark and some wood should be cut through. To do this, place the knife one and a half centimeters from the base of the bud, go deeper, then carefully move it, grabbing both the bark and a little wood. It is necessary to cut the vascular-fibrous bundle that nourishes the kidney. Top part The shield is cut off, the peephole should be located in the center. The resulting shield should be inserted into a cut in the bark of the rootstock. The rootstock bends slightly in the direction opposite to the cut.
Budding of fruit trees
The correctness of the procedure is checked by placing the kidney in the center of the longitudinal incision. You should seal the joint by running your fingers along the cut. The resulting area should be tied with polyethylene. It should be tied from the bottom of the longitudinal cut to the top of the transverse cut. The place where the graft is located is tightly bandaged. The bud and petiole cannot be tied. Displacement of the shield is unacceptable. The uncovered parts of the cut are covered with garden varnish.
The next method is budding in the butt. This method is intended for branches in which the bark fits tightly and is difficult to separate.
On the tree to which the cutting is grafted, in the selected place, a strip of bark should be trimmed from top to bottom. The strip should correspond to the size: length - two and a half to three centimeters, width - half a centimeter. Most of the strip (2/3) is cut off. The piece that remains is moved a little to the side.
Where the strip is attached to the trunk, you need to make an incision. The knife is placed at an angle of 30 degrees, the depth of the cut is five millimeters. The result is a wedge-shaped cut into which the lower end of the shield will be inserted.
The shield is cut from the cutting using the same method as in the previous method. The shield is inserted under a piece of bark. The scion is combined with the rootstock. The graft is tied with polyethylene, open areas are smeared with pitch.
During budding, the harness is removed after two to three weeks. This time is enough to see whether the vaccine has been accepted or not. The condition of the petiole will tell you about this. If it dries and falls off, then the process is successful. If not, then re-vaccination should already occur in the spring. The damaged area is lubricated with varnish.
Butt budding
Mid summer - best time in order to graft cuttings. This is due to the fact that shoots that are only one year old no longer grow so intensively, the distance between the buds is minimal, and the apex finishes forming. The wood becomes hard and the bark comes off easily.
On a note. More precise dates depend on the climate of the region, weather and the timing of fruiting of fruit trees. Dates vary from mid-June to the end of August.
Experts note that vaccinating fruit trees in the summer - quite a difficult task for beginners. This is due to the fact that you need to know the right moment for the procedure. If grafted too early, the buds will sprout and the young shoots will not ripen. Then in winter they will die. If you are late, the material will not fuse with the tree.
Tree grafting can be done not only in spring, but also in summer. This procedure has its advantages. Most effective method vaccinations - budding. The method is simple. The two variations of the method depend on how tightly the bark adheres to the rootstock. The timing of vaccination depends on many factors: region, type of crop and the right moment.
