As experience accumulates, many gardeners begin to experience a penchant for experimentation. Vaccination is both a creative process and an indicator of skill. In addition, this manipulation has a large practical value. In the article we will tell you how to plant currants on cherries, bole, gooseberries, plums in the spring, what types of vaccinations to use.
All types of currants are easily propagated vegetatively and are easily grown almost throughout Russia. What practical benefit can there be from grafting these cultures, other than the pleasure of the process and the satisfaction of curiosity?
Currant grafting allows you to perform the following tasks:
According to established practice, currants are grafted either in early spring or during the summer. The choice depends on what goal the gardener is pursuing, and what material for the scion is available to him. AT spring time carry out vaccinations with lignified cuttings, harvested ahead of time in autumn or winter.
The specific time is determined by the weather, and in middle lane usually occurs in the last decade of March. It is important to catch the moment of the beginning of sap flow on the rootstock, but not to wait for the buds to open. The moment of the beginning of sap flow can be determined by the state of the kidneys on the rootstock. They should be swollen and well defined.
Tip #1 The beginning of sap flow is also determined by the ease of separation of the bark. If the bark leaves well on the cut branch, it's time to graft. If it sits tight, the right moment has not yet come.
In order for the vaccine to take root and move into growth, it is important to avoid the following mistakes:
Mistake #1. Incorrect choice term.
If you vaccinate ahead of time, the stock will not be able to feed the grafted stalk, the graft will dry out quickly and will not take root. Delaying the deadline also leads to rejection of the inoculation material.
Mistake #2. Wrong selection rootstock.
Do not get carried away with vaccinations "all for all." Before starting the operation, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the principles of compatibility of scions and rootstocks.
Mistake #3. Violation of the technology of vaccination.
Vaccinations must be carried out quickly, clearly, with a well-honed instrument. The vaccination site must be well protected from drying out, overheating, frostbite and infection.
Grafting material should be healthy, not overdried, with buds without a green cone. A good tool is a third of the success of an inoculation. The standard set of "garden surgeon" should include:
The blade steel of the grafting knife should hold a sharp edge well. For grafting currants, both currants and some plants of other species are used:
| Scion | Compatibility | Characteristic |
| golden currant | Excellent | Proven by the experiments of Michurin and the extensive practice of gardeners, the rootstock for all types of currants. Gives frost and drought resistance to plants, increases crop yield. |
| Black currant | Excellent | Blackcurrant can serve as a good rootstock for different varieties black and red currant. Increases the yield and quality of fruits of the grafted crop. |
| Cherry | Medium | Option for gardeners-experimenters. Despite the information about the successful foreign experience of grafting currants on cherries, in practice there are numerous rejections of vaccinations. In successful cases, the resulting plant has rather large fruits with an unusual taste. |
| Rowan | Medium | Grafting is justified if no more suitable stock is available. The percentage of survival is low, the grafted material does not adhere well to the rootstock. |
| Gooseberry | Good | Gooseberries and currants are physiologically suitable for each other, but it is more expedient to graft gooseberries on currants, and not vice versa. |
Thus, ideally, for currant grafting, it is better to purchase golden currant seedlings. Especially if the vaccination is planned for the purpose of growing a standard form. If this is not possible, blackcurrant can be used for the stock. All other options are considered only in an experimental way.
Golden currant is an unpretentious ornamental crop that gives excellent rootstocks for fruit varieties of currants. To plant currants in the spring, the cuttings must be cut in the fall after the end of the growing season and the arrival of the first frost. Thus, it will be possible to obtain guaranteed sleeping material, which will be well stored until spring, if you create it right conditions. The shoots from which the cuttings are cut should not be thin. Optimum diameter- 4-5 mm. Cut off shoots are divided into parts 3-4 buds long, sections on both sides are poured with molten paraffin, the material is tied into bundles according to varieties.
Storage of cuttings in winter is carried out in the cold. Optimum temperature from 0 to 3 0 C. Humidity - 65-70%. In regions with snowy winters gardeners most often place the cuttings in bags and bury them in a snowdrift. Another option is a basement protected from rodents. As a last resort, you can try to keep the cuttings in the refrigerator, wrapping them in moistened flannel.
Tip #2 To avoid wetting of the bark of the cuttings during storage in a snowdrift, it is advisable to place the bundles in plastic bottles or tubes.
Currant grafting can be carried out by any known method. When choosing a technology, you need to focus on the purpose for which the operation is performed.
| Method | Advantages of the method | Disadvantages of the method |
| Simple copulation | Grafting "branch to branch", with a perfect match between the diameters of the scion and rootstock. The technique consists in a simple connection of slices. The method gives a high percentage of survival. | Requires sufficient practical experience and sleight of hand to hold the scion and rootstock in position while wrapping is being done. The junction of the scion and rootstock is not strong enough. |
| An improved type of copulation, excluding the "slipping" of the scion from right position. The adhesion to the stock is excellent, the survival rate is high. The technique is accessible to beginners. | It takes a little more time for the operation compared to a simple copulation. | |
| Budding | More grafting material can be taken from one cutting. Due to the small area, the stock is almost not injured. The procedure is quick and easy. The survival rate is very high. | Not quite suitable for spring vaccinations. |
| In split | Scion and rootstock can be of different diameters. The technique is suitable for regrafting old bushes. The survival rate is high. | Not found. |
| For the bark | Scion and rootstock can be of different diameters. The method is used for regrafting old bushes. | The percentage of survival depends on the accuracy of the procedure. It takes a lot of experience to perfectly match the cambial layers of scion and rootstock. |
| In a side cut | Scion and rootstock of different diameters. The method does not require pruning of the stock, it only makes an incision in the bark. Injury to the rootstock is minimal. | The junction of the scion and rootstock requires additional protection from a fracture. |
| Ablactation | The graft material is not separated from the mother plant. The essence of the method is the merging of two shrubs on their own roots. It is used to create decorative green hedges. | It does not make practical sense in terms of increasing crop yield or plant resistance. |
The best survival rate is observed in cuttings with 2-3 internodes. Despite the fact that currant grafting can solve many different problems, most often this operation is performed to create currant trees. Inoculation in this case performed by the method of improved copulation according to the following plan:
Improved copulation increases the area of contact between scion and rootstock, increasing the likelihood of fusion. After grafting, the currant bush needs careful care.
| Event | Purpose and execution |
| Watering | Immediately after vaccination and then - constantly. The trunk circle must be mulched to prevent the soil from drying out and the formation of a soil crust. |
| top dressing | The first feeding is given 2 weeks after the procedure. At this time, nitrogen should predominate in the composition. In the future, full mineral compositions are used. |
| pruning | It is important to remove the shoots below the grafting site if a standard currant is formed, or tweezing side shoots on the bush. The procedure is necessary so that the grafted cutting receives the maximum amount of moisture and nutrition. |
| Loose strapping | It is necessary from time to time if not a special stretch material was used. If this is not done, a constriction will form over time, making the vaccination site prone to fractures. |
You can remove the strapping no earlier than a year later, but it is better to wait longer. If the vaccine has successfully taken root and gives a large annual increase, it is necessary to forcibly slow it down by tweezing, so that the plant is better prepared for winter.
Question number 1. Is it possible to bud currants in spring?
The method of budding on currants is used mainly in the summer. In summer, the condition of the buds and shoots is more obvious and it is easier to monitor the survival rate of the vaccine. However, you can use this method in the spring. The main thing is to plant the eye on a rootstock area protected from the sun.
Question number 2. From what branches should cuttings be cut for currant grafting?
For spring grafting, cuttings are taken from annual shoots that have well-formed vegetative buds and mature wood. More effective in terms of survival are cuttings taken from the southern, well-lit part of the crown of the mother plant. It is better to choose them from the middle part of the crown (not from below and not from above).
Question number 3. Why cut cuttings in the fall? Can I take them in the spring, just before vaccination?
Meaning autumn harvest cuttings in the ability to reduce the risk of freezing of suitable shoots. In the spring, there is no guarantee that the mother bush has not been damaged by frost. But if the winters in the region are not too severe, and the temperature does not fall below -20 0 C, harvesting cuttings in the spring is possible.
Question number 4. How long does the stalk take root during the spring grafting of currants?
If the operation was successful, after 2 months the scion grows together with the stock. This is noticeable by the state of the grafted cutting - it dissolves the buds and begins to grow actively. At this time, the plant must be protected from infections and pests - they willingly sit on currants that are not strong after the operation. The harness, if it is not tight, is better to keep longer to reduce the risk of fractures.
And (red and black) represent low shrubs. The average height of these berry bushes is 1-1.2 m, rarely reaches 1.5 m. Therefore, you have to bend low when harvesting from gooseberry and currant bushes.
In addition, the berries on the lower branches are often soiled with dirty splashes that fall on them during heavy rain or watering.
The removal around such low bushes also causes great inconvenience. And in gooseberries, weeding is aggravated by the fact that its branches are prickly.
In recent years, the cultivation of currants and gooseberries in the form of a standard tree has become very popular.
Gooseberries, red and black currants - cultures are too weak to be obtained from them by forming pruning sufficiently tall and beautiful tree. Therefore, to create a vigorous and thick bole, a different type of currant is used. This is a golden currant; or, as it is also called, crandal.
Golden currant is a relatively large shrub, reaching a height of 3-4 m. It significantly exceeds the bushes of black and red currants, gooseberries in growth strength.
The root system of the golden currant is powerful, reaching a depth of 2 meters.
Golden currant has great advantages:
- high drought resistance and heat resistance;
- resistance to almost all, which often affect gooseberries, as well as black and red currants.
To create a currant or gooseberry tree, first of all, it is necessary to grow a powerful rootstock. For this purpose, they are planted in the spring (it is better immediately on permanent place) rooted cuttings or layering of golden currant.
During the summer, growing cuttings of golden currant are intensively cared for, forming plants into one trunk. Top dressing is done regularly and the emerging root shoots are removed, as well as extra shoots in the lower part of the trunk.
As a result of caring care by autumn, the height of a young plant usually reaches 1.5 meters. If it is not possible to get such a height, then the golden currant is grown for another year.
Gooseberry, black and red currant cuttings for grafting onto a golden currant stem are prepared at the beginning of winter.
For cutting high-quality cuttings, well-developed annual shoots of currants and gooseberries are taken. It is desirable that the loose core takes up as little space as possible in them.
Harvested cuttings of currants and gooseberries are stored buried in the snow until spring. And with the onset of warm days, the cuttings are taken out of the melting snow, wrapped in plastic wrap and placed for further storage in a home refrigerator (preferably under a freezer).
Important: until the moment of vaccination, the cuttings of the kidneys must be in a dormant state.
The spring grafting of successfully preserved cuttings of gooseberries, black and red currants is started when the buds begin to bloom on the prepared stem of the golden currant.
Grafting of overwintered currant and gooseberry cuttings on a golden currant stem is usually carried out at a height of 1.0-1.2 m.
If desired, if a taller and thicker golden currant stem is available, the grafting height can be increased to 2 meters.
By the method of improved copulation (or by the bark), a gooseberry or black / red currant stalk with 2-3 buds is grafted to the trunk of golden currant.
The grafting site is tightly wrapped with plastic tape.
To protect the cutting from drying out, it is advisable to put on top a combined cap, consisting of two equal-sized squares of paper and plastic film rolled into a tube, superimposed on each other (the size of a handkerchief; upper layer- from paper, the bottom - from the film). The lower part of the tube is tied to the rootstock below the grafting site, and top part tied with twine. Periodically, the twine in the upper part is untied and they look inside the tube: has the stalk started to grow?
As soon as the buds on the handle bloom, the cap is removed.
It can also be grafted with a sprouting eye (preferably in the butt). In this case, protective caps are not needed.
Good results are obtained by winter grafting currant and gooseberry cuttings on a golden currant stem.
To do this, in autumn, powerful bushes of golden currant, formed into one trunk, are planted in large pots or buckets and put in the basement for the winter.
At the end of February, pots with overwintered golden currant boles are brought into a greenhouse or a warm veranda. After a few days, you can graft the saved cuttings of gooseberries and currants on them.
Grafted plants are well looked after, periodically sprayed with water from a spray bottle.
As a rule, indoors, in the absence of drying winds, the survival rate of grafts is much better than in the garden.
Pots with grafted golden currants are added dropwise in the garden for the summer. Water and feed growing plants regularly.
In autumn, together with a clod of earth, grafted seedlings are planted in a permanent place.
Caring for grafted standard plants consists in regularly removing the golden currant shoots that appear from the root and along the trunk.
To prevent growth from forming on the stem of the golden currant, you can put on a narrow cover made of a special film (black with a white underside).
In the photo: standard currant and gooseberry
Standard currants and gooseberries look very impressive in the garden, especially against the backdrop of a lawn or house wall.
These curly trees look incomparable at the time of abundant flowering.
They are no less beautiful during fruiting, when their crown is strewn with tassels of black or bright berries.
From such miniature trees it is very convenient to pick berries, because you no longer need to bend low.
You can form a whole alley of such amazing berry trees. For example, place such an alley along garden path leading from the entrance gate to the house. Create such original standard berry plants that can not only give a lot of joy throughout the garden season, but also give generous harvests- to the surprise of friends and neighbors!
Alexander Sychev, candidate of agricultural sciences
http://sadincenter.ru
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AT recent times it became popular to grow familiar crops using new technologies. Standard currant not only looks beautiful, but in many ways surpasses ordinary berry bushes. To grow such a plant on your site, you need to know a number of important requirements.
Grow on your own personal plot you can red, black, white and golden currants. Standard shrubs have a number of advantages, which are impossible not to say:
This is only the main list of advantages that standard currant has, but such plants also have disadvantages. Bushes are not protected from strong winds and they do not tolerate prolonged frosts. Periodic will have to give unnecessary shoots and pinch the tops. The productivity of the standard plant drops sharply due to the lack of rooted shoots.
This variety is popular because the berries are not only healthy, but also sweeter. It is worth noting that the blackcurrant on the stem, in comparison with other varieties, is more sensitive to freezing of the branches, therefore, it cannot be grown in areas with a cold climate. The best varieties in order to grow them in the standard way: "Stork", "University", "Memorable" and "Monastic".
Red berries contain a lot useful substances and they are often used in cooking. This species, when compared with the previous one, is less whimsical, so it can be grown in different areas without fear of frost. Red standard currant grows well if you use such varieties: Viksne, Bayan, Natalie, Rondom and others.
In Europe, this species is highly valued, which not only serves as a decoration of the territory, but also gives a rich harvest of delicious berries. In order for the currant to grow on the trunk without problems, it is best to use the Imperial Yellow variety, which is characterized by large berries. Unlike blackcurrant, yellow varieties bloom later, which helps protect the flowers from frost.
It may seem to many that it is difficult to grow a tree on your own plot, but if you know a number of rules, you can achieve results. Before you figure out how to grow a beautiful currant tree, you need to decide on a suitable place. It is better to choose slightly acidic, sandy and other soils with good moisture capacity. Beforehand, it is recommended to drain the soil well and prepare drainage ditches. In autumn it is worth digging the ground well, spreading out organic fertilizer such as manure or peat.
There is a specific instruction that you should be guided by in order to get the desired result:
It is difficult to make a bole from an adult bush, but if you follow a number of tips, the result will be achieved.
To vaccinate, follow these instructions:
Recommendations concerning proper care, are identical to those that are acceptable for the bush form of currant. By following the rules for growing standard black, red, yellow and white currants with your own hands, you can get a rich harvest of tasty and healthy berries every year.
To get another currant tree, you need to follow these tips:
Everything you need to know about cherry grafting
Experienced gardeners know that trees need to be grafted periodically, preferably in the spring. But for those who are not sure about the reasons for vaccinations, let me explain. Grafting trees is necessary in order to create new varieties of trees or update existing ones; with the help of grafting, you will get rid of the variety that you planted, but, for some reason, you did not like it, and also, importantly, this procedure is the most fast way reproduction of a tree variety in which fruit quality and yield do not suffer.
Cherry grafting by copulation
There is another secret that grafting is fraught with - rapid fruiting. For example, in the case of a cherry, it usually begins to bear fruit in the 5th year, but when grafted, the tree will begin to bear fruit already in the 3rd year, or even the second. In this article, we will tell you:
In horticulture, there are many options for grafting trees, but for stone fruits, and especially for cherries, three methods are recommended:
Immediately make a reservation that all of the listed types of vaccinations are best done in the spring. The method of improved copulation is used when the grafted branch (graft) and trunk (rootstock) have the same thickness. This happens when the cherry is still young, and the cut branches ready for grafting are also matched in thickness and size. In this method, identical incisions are made on the scion and on the rootstock, then the rootstock and scion are joined, fastened with garden pitch (or oily paint), and then tied up.
Cherry grafting in a split.
When carrying out this type of grafting, it is important that the exposed layers of the cambium on the rootstock and scion come into contact with each other. The cuts on the rootstock and scion should be oblique, about 2.5 cm deep, and closer to the ends of the cuts, cuts should be made about 1.5 cm deep. Remember that the knife, hands and all tools that are used in this process must be perfect clean. Otherwise, there is a risk of infection of the tree, and the infected plant can never be grafted, since all its forces will go to the treatment of its own diseases.
Explain what a cambium is. The cambium is a layer in the trunk of a tree that is responsible for the plant's ability to heal its own wounds. It is thanks to this property that vaccination became possible. The cambium is the third layer of the trunk from the outer edge, which comes after the bark of the tree, and the thin layer that follows the bark and is called bast in biology. Best of all and most of all this substance is released in the spring, hence the advice to start a vaccination in the spring.
If the rootstock is much thicker than the grafted branch, the split grafting method is used. It is possible, if necessary and if there is enough space in the rootstock trunk, to prepare two cuttings for grafting. In this method, the rootstock is split in two, and cuttings are inserted into the incision site, which are then tied. In this type of grafting, the stem of the stock should be split to a depth of 2-3 cm.
With the bark grafting method, two scions can also be used. This method is used when the trunk is much thicker than the cuttings and it is possible to place the cuttings under the bark of the trunk. Longitudinal cuts 2-3 cm long are made in the bark, and under the bark, in the place of the cut, cuttings are placed, previously cut 2 mm above the rootstock itself.
Cherry bud grafting
Not only in spring, but also in summer, you can plant a cherry bud. This method is also called budding. About a week before grafting, on the rootstock it is necessary to cut off all the sprouts (side shoots). Cuttings can be cut right on the day of budding. When choosing cuttings, pay attention to the kidneys, they must be formed. On the day of budding, after collecting the cuttings, it is necessary to cut off the buds on them with a knife so that a small dent remains. Then the rootstock and the stalk in the place of such a cut are connected in a T-shaped way.
Experienced gardeners say that you can graft anything and with anything. Indeed, there have been cases of grafting cherries with currants. The result of such an original crossing is a currant tree with large fruits of a strange taste. Therefore, it is still necessary to correctly combine cultures during vaccination.
A simple rule of compatibility is to combine better views and varieties within the same breed. Cherry belongs to stone fruits, and that is why it will not go well with currants or apple trees, and things will be better with apricots. Although, this does not exclude experiments on combining seemingly incompatible cultures. But even within the same breed there are inconsistencies. For example, it is generally accepted that cherry plum is suitable for all stone fruits, but this rule does not apply to cherries and sweet cherries.
The ideal combination for cherries and cherries is a graft to the cherries and cherries themselves, and also to bird cherry. But what about the grafting of cherries on cherries, you ask, because the question of combining cherries with cherries is also often of interest to many gardeners, and not only because these cultures are so similar. Our answer is simple - you can combine! Delicious large berries will turn out, which are well suited not only for juices and jams, but as a dessert, in in kind too.
Cherry grafts by bark
Cherry grafting time is spring and summer. Spring, because it is at this time that sap flow in the tree occurs best, which means that the cambium, which was mentioned at the beginning of the article, will be produced by the tree in abundance.
If for any reason spring vaccination cherries are skipped, then summer also does not threaten that the cuttings will not take root. By the way, summer vaccination carried out when the spring vaccination has not been successful. Nothing prevents you from carrying out this procedure again if the tree is healthy, not infected with anything. In winter, vaccination is not usually practiced, and we would not recommend it. In cold weather, it is impossible for cuttings to take root. Some gardeners look in moon calendar before embarking on such procedures.
Since many are concerned about the possibility and success of grafting cherries to apricots, plums and apple trees, we will consider this issue. Apricot and cherry are poorly compatible, only because the apricot has very fragile branches. But with a skillful approach to this matter, positive results can be achieved. If you really want to graft an apricot to a cherry, follow everyone usual rules vaccinations, and the result will not keep you waiting.
This desire is quite understandable, since one of the reasons for grafting cherries is to aim for a larger fruit, and apricot immediately comes to mind. Apricot will give the cherry not only large shapes, but also the color that it possesses. Plums do better, and when grafting these two trees it is best to give preference to split grafting. You should know that the plum is combined with almost all stone fruits.
Watch for food in the hives. Stocks should always be. Spread 200 g of honey on the film and feed the bees. Repeat every 8-10 days. Read about spring work.
We do selection. We bring out the queens. We do not touch strong families that gave a good honey collection. There is nothing terrible if they gain strength only to the spruce bribe.
Take care of cleaning the bottoms. The health development of families will help you in a good honey harvest. In some hives, it is easier to replace the pallets. Strong pollution washed with hot lye.
Hive exhibition. When the honey plants start to bloom. then the radius of the flyby will be still small. You are taking appropriate place with a good microclimate. Read more about the place of choice.
http://roypchel.ru
" Currant
In function modern garden includes not only providing crops, but also giving the site a decorative, aesthetic appearance. Many gardeners are busy looking for a solution to combine business with pleasure. One of worthy options– cultivation berry bushes and hazels on the trunk. This approach allows the use of landscape design dogwood, hazelnuts, chokeberry and even prickly gooseberries. Standard currant deserves a separate discussion.
In shape, it is no longer a shrub, but a mini-tree. It has one central conductor, from the upper part of which several side branches extend.
Hungarian gardeners were the first to guess to grow berry crops so in an unusual way. True, this invention was born not of aesthetic needs, but of severe necessity. Wet and hot weather in the summer months was the cause of spoilage a large number berries: located close to the ground, they simply rotted away.
In the old pre-revolutionary Russian gardens standard berries were also encountered. For a long time, only individual enthusiasts used this method, but now the technique is gradually coming back into fashion. Especially, stem cultivation has many advantages:
Of course, as in any serious business, it can not do without minuses:
And yet, with a skillful approach, any shortcomings can be reduced to zero.
The fruits of the standard currant ripen faster and contain more sugars than the fruits of the same variety in the bush form. This is due to the fact that the brushes during filling receive different amount sunlight.
The acquired stem currant seedling can be planted both in autumn and in spring. The specific period must be selected based on the nature of the climatic zone. In regions where there is a lot of snow in winter, it is suitable autumn planting . Snow cover will protect the fragile plant from freezing. If the winters are not snowy, it is better to plant currants in the spring, after the soil has thawed.
A standard planting pit for standard currants is prepared - 0.5m * 0.5m * 0.5m. Fill with compost or humus and two glasses of ash. To the bottom landing pit drive in a strong high support.
When planting standard currants, there is important nuance. Unlike the bush, its seedling is not placed in a pit at an angle, but is set straight vertically.. The plant is securely fixed to the support. The roots straighten and bury the hole, after which the seedling is well watered.
The standard currant will need support all its life. Fixation reduces the risk of breaking off a thin trunk or its fall in the wind.
Standard currant seedlings do not have to be bought. It is not difficult to form such a plant yourself with your own hands.
In practice, two growing methods are used:
The first way is relatively modern. The second is the same old one that was used by gardeners more than a hundred years ago.
Using this method, you can form a seedling of any red, black or golden currant variety purchased in the nursery or available on the site.
Throughout the life of the plant, it will be necessary to look after the stem and remove all emerging shoots from it.
This method is the most commonly used in European nurseries today. But in order to grow standard currants in this way, you need to master the art of "garden surgery". If possible, buy a seedling or cutting of Breht Corona for a stock. If not, you can try using your own plants.
After grafting, the bole will again and again try to start up side shoots. This needs to be monitored and removed in time.
For the scion, you need to take lignified cuttings, 4-5 mm thick. Too young and thin-skinned can dry out before they take root. The buds on the handle should be dormant. If even a small green cone is visible, the success of the procedure is in question.
The life expectancy of the standard form of currant is longer than the bush one. "Berry on a stick" can successfully bear fruit up to 15-18 years. To ensure yields, a complex of agrotechnical measures is needed.
| Watering | Both drying and waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed. It is necessary to water as needed, achieving penetration of moisture to a depth of at least 1 meter. In autumn, especially in dry years, it is useful to make water-charging watering to increase the winter hardiness of currants. |
|---|---|
| top dressing | Spring: nitrogen fertilizers(dung manure, compost). You need to be careful with urea - standard forms cannot be overfed with nitrogen. Summer: manure - 5 kg, potassium sulfate - 10 g, superphosphate - 40 g. Autumn: superphosphate - 50 g, potassium sulfate - 20 g. |
| pruning | Starting from the 4th year of life, anti-aging pruning is carried out. All old shoots on which fruiting has ceased are annually removed from the plant. The shape of the crown is maintained by cutting thickening shoots. Root shoots removed regularly. |
| Shelter for the winter | To prevent freezing of branches (especially for black currants), standard currants can be wrapped in a cover of 2-3 layers of agrospan for the winter. |
Another important manipulation that is mandatory when caring for standard currants is a garter. Branches loaded with crops can break off. One of better ways to prevent disaster - the construction of an umbrella chatalovka. This design resembles a carousel:
Thus, the branches with the harvest are in limbo and do not break off.
The standard form of currant allows you to use the area of the trunk circle for planting useful plants. For example, you can plant a mixture of marigolds and pyrethrum around the tree, which will protect the currant from spider and kidney mites, aphids and gall midges.
Growing currants on a stem is a creative activity. Having shown imagination, you can create alleys or labyrinths of berry mini-trees on your site, at the same time freeing up space for flowers and a lawn. And the rich harvests that standard currants bring will be an additional bonus.
