Worldwide.
Rhododendron (Rhododendron) is the largest genus in the heather family (Ericaceae), named from the Greek words “rhodon” (“rose”) and “dendron” (“tree”) This genus includes about 1300 species and approximately 30 thousand varieties of evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees.
Gardeners' interest in rhododendrons and azaleas is due to the decorativeness of their foliage and the variety of bush shapes, and most of all -. Plant lovers are captivated by the splendor and abundance of white, pink, lilac, violet, red flowers, collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences, reminiscent of an exquisite bouquet.
Depending on the species and variety, the flowers of rhododendrons and azaleas vary in size (from 1-1.5 cm to 6-10 cm in diameter) and shape (wheel-shaped, funnel-shaped, bell-shaped and tubular). There are rhododendrons with fragrant flowers.
The autumn decoration of the leaves of some deciduous species of rhododendrons is not inferior in beauty to the bright decoration.
There is a misconception among gardeners about the difficulty of cultivating these plants. However, in middle lane Russia is no more difficult to breed or. The main thing when growing rhododendrons is to follow a few simple rules common to this culture. When choosing these plants for your garden, keep in mind that only .
To plant rhododendron, you should choose the most appropriate place in the garden, taking into account the biological characteristics of this species. Therefore, before purchasing a plant you like and planting a seedling.
The lighting conditions of the selected plant should be approximately the same as in its natural habitat.
The most suitable place for rhododendron in terms of lighting conditions can be considered a place where there will be open sky(which will provide plants with better access to precipitation and light), and at midday they will be covered by diffuse shadow from other plants. Perfect option for rhododendron - a sparse pine forest or clearing located between tall pines.
Rhododendrons can be planted near other trees whose roots go deep. For example, near oak or larch.
Tree species with a root system close to the surface (linden, maple, chestnut, poplar, willow, elm, alder) are not suitable for proximity to rhododendron, depriving the rhododendron of moisture and nutrition, which is why it develops poorly and may die. Therefore, in case of forced planting of rhododendron in close proximity to unwanted trees, isolation from their roots must be provided. The feeding area of the rhododendron is insulated using roofing felt, polyethylene or other materials.
A suitable place for growing rhododendrons is on the north side of the building, where the sun illuminates the plants early in the morning and in the afternoon.
When determining a place for planting rhododendrons, care must be taken to protect the bushes from prevailing winds throughout the year, which is very important for this crop. In open areas of the garden, rhododendrons (especially evergreen species) suffer in winter not so much from frost as from the drying effects of the wind.
It is especially undesirable to place rhododendrons near the corners of buildings where there are strong drafts, as well as in free spaces between buildings.
Reliable wind protection for rhododendrons can be provided by the walls of buildings, solid fences, hedges and plantings. coniferous trees.
It is better to plant rhododendrons in an elevated place in the garden, where there is no spring stagnation of water.
Having chosen a suitable place in the garden for the rhododendron, you can begin preparing the seedling for planting.
The distance between bushes of tall rhododendron species is 1.5-2.0 m, medium-sized ones - at least 1.2 m, low-growing ones - 0.5-0.7 m.
Rhododendrons for good growth and lush flowering requires loose, acidic soil with a high content. Lime, dolomite, ash and other materials or fertilizers that shift the soil pH to the alkaline side should not enter the root feeding zone.
The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so it is enough to dig a hole 40-50 cm deep (without taking into account the thickness of the layer drainage materials). The width of the hole depends on the size of the adult plant. For example, for large bushes (Katevba rhododendron, yellow rhododendron), the hole should be at least 80 cm wide.
If the garden soil is clayey, then it is necessary to arrange drainage for the rhododendron seedling - to do this, pour a drainage layer (gravel or broken bricks) about 10 cm.
The planting hole is then filled with a suitable substrate.
Substrate preparation is the most important component successful cultivation rhododendrons. It should be remembered that in nature, rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and water-permeable soils. These requirements are best met by a mixture of leaf soil, high-moor peat, and coniferous tree litter (3:2:1).
You can use a substrate consisting only of equal parts of high-moor peat and coniferous litter (pine or spruce).
Experts recommend the following substrate composition for planting rhododendron:
- sphagnum or heather soil (from under coniferous plants);
- humus or ripened;
- Part garden soil;
- cow manure (rotted is better);
- pine litter;
- fertilizer “Kemira-universal” (100 g).
The rhododendron root ball removed from the pot should be well saturated with water before planting. If it is dry, immerse it in water and wait until the release of air bubbles stops.
The rhododendron bush is planted in a hole filled with substrate at the same depth as before.
When planting, do not cover the root collar of rhododendrons with soil! Because of this, plants stop blooming and eventually die.
We take out a rhododendron seedling with a closed root system from the container, carefully straighten the roots (we cut off very long ones).
We compact the substrate in the planting hole. After planting is complete, water the rhododendron, even in the rain. After planting rhododendron, it is advisable to mulch the soil.
Mulching trunk circle and rhododendron is a must, this is a mandatory technique for this crop. Peat, pine litter, or dry leaves (preferably oak) are suitable as mulch. It is undesirable to use maple leaves and horse chestnut, they decompose quickly and have an alkaline reaction. You can mix peat with sawdust.
Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, protects roots from overheating in hot weather, and from freezing in winter. Mulch suppresses weed growth; rotting, it increases the humus content and acidity of the soil. The mulch layer should be at least 5 cm. When mulching the rhododendron tree trunk, do not cover the root collar.
The first time after planting, a rhododendron seedling needs to be watered frequently for better rooting. in small portions(3 liters of water per young plant). Then water according to the weather. In dry times, it is better to water the rhododendron daily. Also, during the dry period, you can pour the rhododendron bush “over the head” - over the leaves, but do not do this in the sun.
A young rhododendron seedling (2-3 years old) has a small root ball, so when planted directly in an open place, it will suffer from a lack of moisture due to the rapid drying of the top layer of soil. It is better to first plant such a young plant in some protected shaded place, in a hole with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 20-25 cm. And after 2-3 years, transplant the grown rhododendron, as expected, to a permanent place.
Rhododendrons and azaleas tolerate transplantation well up to the age of 5-6 years.
The great advantage of rhododendrons is the possibility of planting or replanting them in the garden at any time in spring, summer and autumn due to their compact fibrous root system.
When planting small rhododendrons in the fall, it is advisable to lightly cover them with spruce branches (do not cover them with soil).
Rhododendrons do not need pruning. If desired, you can form a bush: pluck out the growing point on the branches, up to the leaves, so that the rhododendron bushes better.
In the photo: frost-resistant azaleas of the varieties “Northern Hi-Lights”, “Klondyke”, “Feuerwerk”
Properly planted rhododendrons do not need additional feeding for several years. However, if you want to speed up the onset of the first flowering (or achieve more abundant flowering), then fertilizers are applied.
Fertilizers containing chlorine and lime are not suitable for feeding rhododendrons.
Rhododendrons are fed 2-3 times per season, starting in early spring and ending in mid-July.
There are a variety of liquid and granular fertilizers available that are designed specifically for rhododendrons. They should be applied according to the directions on the package.
You can use ordinary mineral fertilizers that have an acidic reaction: ammonium nitrate, urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. Their concentration should not exceed 1:1000 (and potassium - even lower).
As an organic fertilizer for rhododendrons, we can recommend old, semi-rotted cow manure, which is applied on top of the soil in spring or autumn. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the pH of the soil. It is undesirable to use horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, as they increase the pH of the soil.
Azaleas and rhododendrons greatly appreciate monthly watering with sour water infused with ordinary water. To obtain such an infusion, you will need five lemons per 5 liters of water: squeeze out the fruits (throw the squeezed lemons into water) and let stand for 5-6 hours. Next, pour 2.5 liters of this acidified water under one large rhododendron bush or 1.5 liters under a small bush (up to 1 m in height).
Approximate feeding scheme for rhododendron:
- 1 feeding - early in spring;
- 2nd feeding - before flowering;
- 3rd feeding - 2-3 weeks after flowering (but no later than mid-August).
In the spring, fertilize rhododendrons with diluted mullein.
In summer - application of mullein with the addition of potassium and phosphorus. Please note that from the beginning of August, rhododendrons need to begin to be prepared for winter, reducing the amount of nitrogen in fertilizers.
Late autumn– introduction of phosphorus and potassium.
Proper planting and proper care of rhododendrons and azaleas is the key to their endurance, successful wintering and excellent flowering.
The first time you hear the name of a flower – rhododendron, it’s hard to even imagine how delicate and tender this plant is. In order to grow it on summer cottage, you have to create everything the necessary conditions for its flowering. If rhododendrons are planted in the right area, in prepared soil and mulched, then caring for them becomes much easier. In today's article we will look at all the necessary conditions for growing rhododendrons, and also get acquainted with the most popular types of these flowers.
Rhododendron reacts poorly to direct rays of the sun and highly lit areas of the ground; their destiny is shade and partial shade.
Advice: In order to understand whether the lighting is suitable for a given flower, just look at its leaves. At optimal lighting The leaves of evergreen rhododendrons are healthy, dark green, they are very decorative not only in summer, but also in winter, but if there is too much light, the flower petals become faded.
In nature, rhododendron bushes can be found, as a rule, in mountainous areas, so it is not surprising that it is there that the ideal relationship between temperature and humidity level is maintained for them.
Rhododendron bushes are practically insensitive to temperature changes - if you properly prepare for the winter season, this plant will survive the harshest winter, without digging. IN summer period optimal temperature 18-25 degrees, if the summer is hot, then you should be very careful about watering and additional spraying of the plant. 
The rhododendron plant should not experience a lack of moisture, especially in the first year after planting. There is absolutely no point in flooding the bushes; excess moisture is also not suitable for this plant; it is better to water little by little, but constantly. The quality of the water used to water the plant plays a huge role in watering; it should be soft, which will also work rainwater or water from a clean reservoir.
In dry weather, the plant should be helped with regular spraying, especially during the period of active growth, if there is even the slightest suspicion that they are experiencing water deficiency.
Advice: In order to understand that the rhododendron flower does not have enough moisture, you need to pay attention to the leaves, they become dull and droop, and appear at the edges. brown spots, similar to fungal diseases.
When choosing a place to plant, you should pay attention to the shade of the area and the trees that will be nearby. It should also be kept in mind that it must be protected from prevailing winds and direct sunlight. They do best in wooded areas, especially under pine trees and not very dense spruce trees. If there are no such trees on the site, then areas directly adjacent to the northern walls of the house and other buildings are perfect.
As for the soil, it must be acidic, air- and moisture-permeable. Optimal composition: high-moor peat (acidic), garden soil (loam) and pine litter, taken in equal parts. 
The rhododendron plant needs fertilizing before flowering, immediately after it and at the end of summer - at the beginning of autumn. You don’t need to come up with anything special here, in any gardening store you can find ready-made soluble fertilizers for rhododendrons, 20-30 grams per 1 liter of water will be more than enough for one plant, you can add 5-10 grams of any nitrogen fertilizer to it.
Rhododendrons can be propagated different ways: seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting. Amateur gardeners prefer the vegetative method of layering. To do this, young flexible shoots take root next to the mother plant. At the same time, the inclined shoot is partially placed in a hole no shallower than 15 cm deep. Already in next season You can safely dig up this new bush and replant it in a suitable place.
For cuttings, take semi-lignified shoots, cut them into cuttings 5-8 cm long, lower leaves removed, leaving the top 2-3 completely. Rhododendrons take root quite difficult, so it is better to keep the cuttings in a solution of growth stimulants for 12-16 hours. After which the cuttings are ready for rooting.
IN winter period Rhododendron requires special care. Since the fall, you should carefully monitor watering, it should not be less than 12-13 liters of water at a time, then before the first frost, the bushes should be wrapped in burlap and secured with twine, this simple method will allow you not to disturb the flow of air to the plant. This shelter can be removed only when the night frosts have passed.
Advice: In spring, you should be wary of the afternoon sun no less than frosts. So for this procedure you should choose a cloudy day so as not to harm the fragile plant.
The most popular types of rhododendrons:
o Japanese rhododendron 
o Rhododendron Schlippenbach 
o Pink rhododendron “Percy Weissman” 
o White rhododendron 
Landing. Everyone who is involved in or wants to grow rhododendrons has a question: when is the best time to replant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in cultivating rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most the right time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic - spring (April - the first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when the young shoots have finished growing and become stronger. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding flowering periods and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such wide range The timing of rhododendron transplantation is determined by the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike other ornamental trees and shrubs, the root system is practically not damaged during transplantation, and the connection between the plant roots and the substrate is not lost.
Thus, if the planting site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons grow just as well in the new location as in the old one. Only healthy plants with a well-developed compact root system should be planted in long-term plantings. In group plantings, the distance between plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.
Even before purchasing rhododendrons, you need to know what space in the garden will be allocated for planting them, and it is best to be guided by a landscaping project developed by specialists. The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from prevailing winds and from direct burning rays of the sun, and the soil should be prepared accordingly.
Rhododendrons should be watered thoroughly before planting. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplantation better. If the root balls of rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried out, they should be immersed in water for several hours to ensure that they are well saturated with water.
Before planting rhododendrons, you should carefully prepare the soil. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then a planting hole is prepared for each plant or each small group. required size, i.e. approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near big trees the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing felt. Acid sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and other organic materials are poured into the dug hole. It is not necessary to have all the named components; you can get by with several or even one material, for example peat. 1/2 of the hole is filled with organic materials, and the rest of the volume is filled with mineral soil dug when preparing the hole. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m 3 of substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Mixing can be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a fully prepared substrate. The planting site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.
Rice. 15.Planting rhododendrons: 1 - rhododendron planted too shallow; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - properly planted rhododendron.
Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared hole, dig a cell corresponding to the size of the rhododendron root ball, and plant the plant in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the root ball is covered with a thin layer (no more than 5 cm) of the substrate on top. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplantation, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, no watering is required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, after replanting, at least 5 liters of water are needed for watering, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water from spreading when watering, make a small mulch roller around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. As mulch, you can use sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.
If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have a lot of flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that the plants that have not yet fully taken root do not waste much-needed flowers on flowering. nutrients and moisture. A few flower buds can be left so that when flowering you can appreciate the beauty of the planted plant.
During soliter plantings, when rhododendrons are planted on the lawn one at a time, so that the wind does not shake the not yet rooted plants, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, inclined against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.
At proper care Rhododendrons bloom and bear fruit profusely every year. When flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices a periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate such periodicity, if seeds are not needed, the faded inflorescences are broken off immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year. To break off a faded inflorescence, bend it slightly, holding it large and index fingers. In this case, the fragile axis of the inflorescence easily breaks at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than using a knife or scissors. This work should be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to break off young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that one without a flower bud.
Top dressing. In order for rhododendrons to bloom profusely and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not be damaged by pests, they need to be properly fertilized. Feeding is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. For a long time, even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require feeding, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most courageous and determined gardeners, at best, used well-decomposed manure as fertilizer. There was a particularly strong prejudice against mineral fertilizers, since it was believed that rhododendrons cannot tolerate them. As knowledge of mineral nutrition of plants expanded, nurseries began to carefully use mineral fertilizers to feed rhododendrons. Nowadays, no one considers it possible to obtain high-quality rhododendron planting material without the use of mineral fertilizers.
Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantings in a permanent place also need feeding. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, lush green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habit. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, try to speed up the flowering of hybrids in order to quickly see the results of their work.
Rhododendrons are slow-growing plants with a shallow, compact root system, so they do not tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.
As the experience of specialists from the Leningrad State University Botanical Garden shows. P. Stuchki and foreign experts, rhododendrons need to be fertilized already in the first year after transplantation, immediately after the transplanted plants take root. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that the fertilizer be liquid.
What external signs Do rhododendrons indicate nutritional deficiencies? The most characteristic sign is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their shine decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very little annual growth, flower buds do not form, and in August and early September there is an increased shedding of old leaves.
The most accessible and common organic fertilizers are old, semi-rotted manure, horn shavings and blood meal; horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase. As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, characterized by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and having a long-lasting and mild effect, since their decomposition process lasts longer than the decomposition of manure.
If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be given preference. Like mineral fertilizers, it is advisable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for feeding. To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water until it turns light brown. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the soil reaction, since this fertilizing can change the pH of the substrate. Before fertilizing, rhododendrons should be watered well so that the root ball is wet to its full depth.
If there is semi-rotted manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the soil surface around each plant in a layer approximately 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate into the soil, and the plants receive the necessary nutrition.
If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then you should focus on inorganic fertilizers.
Mineral fertilizers are essentially nutrient concentrates, so a small amount They add a lot of nutrients needed by plants to the soil. Since rhododendrons grow well in acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, calcium sulfate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for fertilizing, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.
The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used to feed rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (the solution of potassium fertilizers should be even weaker). Chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used to feed rhododendrons. You need to start feeding the plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient humidity in the soil and air, secondary growth of shoots can be caused. Young shoots that began to grow late manage to finish growing before the end of the growing season and freeze slightly in the fall even with the first light frosts. IN climatic conditions In our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many species of rhododendrons. It can be stopped by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 or a 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KN 2 PO 4.
Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. To prepare it, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO 3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KN 2 PO 4 are taken per 10 liters of water. The result is a solution that contains the main macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required range (2-7) .
Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is very labor-intensive work, therefore, when mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, you should take 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the rhododendrons have flowered. This time the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.
You can fertilize a little differently: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied immediately after the rhododendrons have flowered. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m2 of area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. At the end of May - beginning of June, after the rhododendrons have flowered, 80 g of a mixture is added per 1 m 2 of area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Feeding rhododendrons open ground solutions of mineral fertilizers are carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July. For fertilizing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for fertilizing rhododendrons in closed ground. For 10 liters of water, take 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution 1-2 more times.
Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so fertilizing them is discussed in the section that talks about propagating rhododendrons by seeds.
KONDRATOVICH "RHODODENDRONS", Riga, 1981 (experience of the introduction of rhododendrons in Latvia)
Rhododendron is a luxurious and profusely flowering shrub that requires regular feeding to maintain its decorative appearance. From my own experience, I will say that in addition to fertilizers, it requires a soil with a special structure that has an acidic pH.
How often and with what means should you feed rhododendron in spring and autumn so that it pleases you with its healthy looking And lush flowering?
Unfortunately, the decorative period of many shrubs in our garden is not long enough, but there are several varieties of rhododendron that, with well-organized care, will bloom from May to September.
To support the plant at this difficult summer stage, it is important to apply fertilizers in advance that will nourish root system and provide peduncles and green mass with important microelements.
Like any garden plant, rhododendron needs nitrogen in spring, and sodium, phosphorus and potassium in summer and autumn. Experienced gardeners and nursery owners recommend using not standard complexes, such as superphosphate, but creating your own nutrient mixtures from the following preparations:
These preparations gently acidify the soil to pH values that are comfortable for rhododendron and constantly maintain the achieved level, preventing the ornamental shrub from getting sick. Combinations of substances are selected depending on seasonality and the purpose of feeding and are diluted in water according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
The standard rate of complex and compound fertilizers for rhododendron is not always sufficient. In some cases, a plant may experience a pronounced deficiency of a particular mineral or suffer from an overabundance of unnecessary elements in the soil.
The need to add a certain element to rhododendron can be determined by specific signs:
It is imperative to eliminate mineral deficiency, even if the decorative period of rhododendron has already ended. Future flower stalks that will delight you next season are laid in July. By this moment, the soil near the root system should have enough elements important for the development of the ornamental shrub.
The rhododendron root system is in a successful symbiosis with a special mycorrhiza fungus, which helps the shrub grow in acidic soils and efficiently absorb nutrients.
In order not to destroy this useful “partner”, for fertilizing ornamental shrubs and watering it is necessary to select preparations and water without chlorine.
Another feature of the rhododendron root system is its relative compactness. The roots of the bush do not grow in different directions, like most plants; they form a small lump that “pumps out” from landing pit nutrients.
It is precisely because of this static nature of the root system that rhododendron needs a constant supply of fertilizers to the soil.
What else should you pay attention to when feeding ornamental shrubs?
When preparing liquid fertilizers for rhododendron, be sure to follow the proportions recommended by the manufacturer of the mineral fertilizer.
Feeding rhododendron at the beginning of the season takes place in two stages: they serve to activate the growth of new shoots, stimulate budding and strengthen the root system.
These two stages of fertilizing can be done in one day: you pour the first fertilizer on the rhododendron tree trunk, and 2 hours after the moisture has been absorbed, you scatter dry fertilizing.
The granules will gradually dissolve during watering or under the influence of precipitation and release elements important for bush growth and budding into the soil.
No less important for rhododendron summer care. You will learn how to feed ornamental shrubs after flowering has finished from the video:
Rhododendron, like any perennial shrub, begins to gradually prepare for wintering from mid-August. As air and soil temperatures decrease, as well as the length of daylight hours, the plant starts processes of decreasing the production of growth hormones, increases the degree of production of inhibitors, and slows down the rate of metabolic processes.
By late autumn, rhododendrons that have prepared for winter should not have moisture in the cells of the above-ground part, otherwise they will not survive the frost.
In order for all these processes to be completed on time, the fertilizing applied from mid-summer should not contain growth-stimulating elements, in particular nitrogen.
In the fall, preparations with potassium and phosphorus will help rhododendron prepare for winter; nursery owners usually use potassium phosphate in combination with magnesium sulfate (20 g per 1 m2) for this purpose.
In the fall, you can also apply some of the spring fertilizers under the bushes:
You can use products and preparations containing nitrogen only after the bush has completely entered a dormant state, that is, 2 weeks after frost sets in. If you do not have the opportunity to be on the site during this period, postpone this feeding until early autumn.
Rhododendron will enjoy autumn mulching of the tree trunk with materials that acidify the soil. You can use high-moor peat, fresh sawdust, pine bark or needles for this purpose.
A layer of 5-8 cm will serve as additional cover for the root system and will help the shrub survive frosts. In early spring The mulch should be temporarily removed to avoid retention of perched water and damping off of the roots.
Another interesting material for mulching rhododendrons is heather compost, which is prepared for several years from pine needles, heather soil, dust, sphagnum, sand and high-moor peat.
Its lime-free formula maintains comfortable soil acidity, and specific fungi help the root system receive nutrition. If you can't find heather compost for sale, you can go into the coniferous forest and remove the top layer of soil in the areas where blueberries, blueberries and lingonberries grow.
This “treat” for rhododendron can be applied not only in the fall - add nutritious soil every 2 weeks under the bush throughout the season - and it will definitely thank you with a long period of decorativeness.
A very popular ornamental garden plant in the West, rhododendron, has begun to win the hearts of Russian summer residents. This is in fact an unusually spectacular shrub (less often a small tree), the flowers of which can compete even with roses in beauty. There are simply a huge number of varieties of rhododendrons. Most of them are preferably planted in the garden in April. Read on to learn how this operation is performed, as well as what it means to care for rhododendrons in the spring.
This ornamental plant belongs to the heather genus. It prefers a humid, temperate climate. There are three main varieties of rhododendrons: deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen. The methods of caring for them are practically no different. All three species are well suited for the Russian climate. The only thing when choosing seedlings is to pay attention to the degree of their frost resistance. For gardens and vegetable gardens, it is worth purchasing only those varieties that can withstand temperatures down to -30 ... -34 o C.
Before we start figuring out how to plant rhododendron in the spring, let's figure out how to choose the right variety. Most often, Russian gardeners grow rhododendrons of the Northern Lights, Rustica and KnapHill-Exbury series on their plots. The Japanese species of this shrub is also very suitable for our climate. An excellent solution would be to choose almost any variety of Finnish selection. Dutch rhododendrons are practically unsuitable for the Russian climate.
Quite often in the gardens of domestic owners of suburban areas you can see plants from the group of Katevbinsky hybrids. The flowers of such rhododendrons are not too large and not particularly bright. However, there are a lot of them blooming on the branches. The bushes can reach a diameter of 1.4 m and a height of 4 m. The main advantage of such rhododendrons is their unpretentiousness and resistance to low temperatures.
The question of how to properly plant a rhododendron in the spring also comes down to choosing the most suitable site for it. When deciding where exactly this plant will grow, you need to take into account the fact that these plants:
Thus, in order for the plant to feel comfortable on the site, planting rhododendron in the spring or at any other time of the year should be done under spreading crowns tall trees, in a flood-proof place with high snow cover in winter. Very often these ornamental bushes are also placed next to the fence. You should not choose an open place or corner of the house for planting rhododendron. Strong wind this ornamental shrub also does not tolerate.
By choosing the right site, you can grow lush beautiful bushes with bright showy colors, not delivering any unnecessary hassle. If the place was initially chosen poorly, you should not be upset. You can always perform a procedure such as rhododendron transplantation. It is best to do this in the spring. But you can move the bush in the fall and even in the summer. Rhododendrons withstand transplantation very well.
Under the purchased seedlings in the selected area, dig a hole 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide. Drainage is laid at its bottom. In very dry areas, sometimes the hole for the rhododendron, on the contrary, is lined with a thin layer of clay, which allows moisture to be retained at the roots.
Regular garden soil is completely unsuitable for these plants. The soil removed from the pit is removed. Instead, use a mixture of completely decomposed cow manure (3:1). In this case, the question of how and what to fertilize rhododendrons in the spring will not confront the owners of the site in the first 2-3 years. No fertilizing is required.
You can also use a mixture of blueberries, half-rotted pine litter, coarse sand and leaf soil (1:3:1:1) to fill the roots. To increase the nutritional value of the soil in the latter case, when planting, it is advisable to add a bucket of decomposed compost to the hole.
If the seedling was purchased in a container, it is lowered for a day in warm water. This is necessary to ensure that the root ball gets wet. Some sellers plant rhododendrons in containers that are too small. In this case, a dense crust of dead roots forms on the surface of the coma on all sides. It must be removed or at least cut in several places. Otherwise, young roots will not break through it, and the plant will receive few nutrients.
The actual planting of rhododendron in the spring is done as follows:
So, we have found out how to properly plant rhododendron in the spring. The technique described above is used by Russian gardeners quite often. However, it has one significant drawback. The soil under rhododendrons in contact with adjacent soil as a result of various types natural processes Over time it begins to leach. And this is very harmful for plants. It is necessary to either take any measures to acidify the soil, or even perform an operation such as replanting rhododendron (in spring or autumn). Therefore, owners of summer cottages often arrange special high beds for rhododendrons. In the selected area, the soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm. Next, wooden sides are installed along the perimeter of the hole. Small pebbles are poured onto the bottom of the resulting “box” for drainage. Most high bed filled with prepared sour soil mixture. The actual planting is done in the usual way.
Now let's figure out what to feed rhododendrons in the spring. This ornamental shrub must be fertilized very carefully. The first time feeding is done at the 2-3rd year of the plant’s life. Early in the spring, a mixture of ammonium and potassium sulfate with superphosphate is added to the tree trunk circle at a ratio of 2:1:1. On square meter Approximately 80 g of this fertilizer should be used. Old plantings can be additionally fertilized with organic matter. It is best to use rotted manure or compost in the amount of one bucket per bush. Mullein majority experienced gardeners It is not recommended to fertilize rhododendrons.
At the end of May - beginning of June, the second feeding of rhododendrons is carried out. In spring, therefore, the bushes are fertilized twice. The second time the same is used mineral mixture, but in smaller quantities (about half).
The next time fertilizers are applied to the soil is in the summer - in July. In this case, phosphorus-potassium fertilizing is also used in summer and is not used in autumn. Such fertilizers cause increased shoot growth due to the development of flower buds.
Remove the cover from rhododendrons after overwintering immediately after the outside temperature reaches above zero. This operation must be performed on a cloudy day. Immediately place the shoots of this ornamental plant under Sun rays it is forbidden. It is advisable to even leave the shelter on the south side for a while.
In order for the earth to thaw and the roots to begin to intensively absorb nutrients, the mulch from the tree trunk needs to be raked out. It is impossible to allow melt water to linger at the trunk for a long time. It also definitely needs to be raked out. Next, according to the method described above, rhododendrons are fed. In the spring, after the melt water has subsided, the plants begin to be watered periodically. In this case, you should use only warm water heated in the sun.
Rhododendrons are usually not pruned in the spring, since they do not tolerate this operation very well. If you want to give the bush a round or oval shape, branches in in the right places shortened in two seasons - in the first year on the one hand, in the second - on the other.
In evergreen varieties, some leaves may turn brown after wintering. They need to be removed because they will not be restored. Frozen shoots are also cut off.
Rhododendrons are quite hardy plants, and even if it seems to you that the bush is completely frozen, you should not rush to remove it. The plant needs to be watered abundantly for some time. And then, quite possibly, new shoots will appear on it. The most unpretentious varieties, after an unsuccessful winter, are completely restored by autumn. You already know how to feed rhododendrons in the spring. Apply some mineral fertilizers under the bush. This will help him gain strength and cope with the damage.
Thus, caring for rhododendrons in the spring consists of abundant feeding and watering. The last operation should be carried out correctly. If the soil under rhododendrons is constantly moistened with ordinary water, after a few years it will begin to leach. To prevent this, use (half a glass per bucket) or citric acid(4 g). On hot spring days, plants need not only to be watered, but also sprayed.
Sometimes it happens that for some reason the plant withers and does not bloom well. In this case, you can try to move it to a more suitable place. The question of how to replant rhododendron in the spring is not at all complicated. This procedure is performed like this:
If everything is done carefully, the rhododendrons may not even notice the transplant.
So, we have found out how to care for a plant such as rhododendron in the spring. Feeding, pruning and watering are mandatory procedures at this time of year. This plant is not particularly whimsical, but it is still necessary to follow certain rules when growing it. If you do not violate the required technologies (properly prepare the soil, apply fertilizers on time and irrigate with acidified water), the bushes will delight the eyes of the owners of the site with lush flowering for many years.
